It's been pointed out that I should have grounded the inlet ground wire to the frame instead of the Wago. This and a star washer (the kind that digs into metal) is required to meet UL requirements. The ground circuit stays the same, it just joins at the frame instead of the Wago. This is considered (and is) a safer way of grounding a device. I hope to have pictures up on the community tab tonight. (2/2/22) I also will put it as a correction in the next video.
I'm done building mine and boy did I struggle finding good videos like yours for the parts you haven't covered yet... Watching this anyway to make sure I did not do anything stupid with high voltage wiring.. Thanks a lot for making these.
Absolutely awesome Voron 2.4 build guides, I will definitely be viewing all these again when I get enough cash together to do the build myself. Keep up the excellent work.
Your the man! Ive been following your videos as I build my 2.4 and just realized how recent they are. Im starting to put my psu's on tonight and cant wait for the next video!
Just started building yesterday, So much fun. I asked my wife for a 350mm 2.4 and she accidentally ordered a 250mm so that caused some marital strain until I ordered a 350mm model myself then decided to build both of them.
@@perfectscotty I don't know the Voron group is heading, but I hope it's a tool changer. I would like multi color/material, but I'm just not interested in purge blocks. It's just too wasteful for me. I'm filming this build again so it will take me a bit. I hope to get a video out by the end of the day, but it may take a little longer.
Thank you. I've started on the next one. Hopefully I'll have electricity to continue tonight. We are in the middle of an ice storm where I'm at and the power is flickering. lol
I am an engineer and I haven’t touched normal wire stripper for years. The “cheap” automatic wire strippers can strip any wire you can come across perfectly except high voltage wires as they are too thick to fit in and you usually use a utility knife to strip those anyways. You just need to adjust the tension correctly by adjusting the thumbscrew. Insulated crimps are better and are easier to crimp and have higher crimping pressure than non-insulated crimps, you just need the right tool to crimp them.
Excellent video once again. I need to come up with some ideas of some mundane tasks for you to do so we can get more excellent instructionals. Like, cleaning out a dryer lint trap, or emptying the dishwasher. Step by step. Haha. But really, excellent work. I know it takes a lot to not only do this but to take the time and film it
Thank you. This one was a bit frustrating. It’s an afternoons work but to film it and edit it’s a couple of weeks. I do it in order by building, filming and editing a little at a time.
@@scottcorn I think you underestimate the value of laying it all out so clearly though. I’ve done this sort of wiring enough times and this is still super useful. I’m gonna basically be doing this exact step this evening and will be following along with how you’ve done it.
Nate, I'm going to ground all the ground wires on the frame. LCD Consultant pointed out that to meet UL standards the ground has to go directly from the inlet to the chassis (frame). It also has to have a star washer (the kind that dig into the metal). The circuit stays the same. You just remove the extra ground wire to the frame. Put ring terminals on the remaining grounds and attach them to the t-nut we added to the frame. I hope to have something on the community tab this evening.
Scott, my UL guy would not allow the AC GND to be connected that way. The wire from the wall must go directly to the chassis with star washer. Not flat washer. Then extend the GND from there to supplies. Your wiring and heatshrink is fantastic
@@scottcorn The theory is the GRN wire from the wall must go directly to the chassis GND. I think your allowed more than one connector under that screw. It must include a star washer that would dig into the material and not corrode over time. If any of the other GNDs open the user is not in as much of a danger of a shock. The washer is just something with twists in it so it digs in. This means you would have to bring your GND from the star setup to your WAGO unit as you have set it up. Personally I would be more worried about that heated BED than the rails since 120volts is sitting right next to it a few places. The rails are not near anything dangerous. Just static maybe. I just saw NERO reset his camera 6 feet away with static.
I saw that happen to him also. I just ordered some star washers from Amazon. We have a large ice storm coming in tonight. Hopefully these parts get her. lol
I think I'll ground them all there. It eliminates a wire also. Did some more research and of course you are correct. lol The panel guy from work I talked to says it's just a matter of trying to eliminate as many failure points as possible. It also makes the distance to the inlet ground every so shorter. All for safety. Thanks for your help. I'll put it up as a stand alone comment as a correction as well as in the next video.
15:27 I’m no professional, and certainly have very little experience with this exact procedure, but I found that by rotating the fitting 180° in the crimping tool from the way shown here, I was able to produce a better crimp that was perhaps stronger than the way that you did it. I use different tools and different consumables though so YMMV.
I was really clunky with the tool on video trying to get a clear shot. lol I watch myself on the next ones to see how I actually hold the tool while not filming.
@@scottcorn of course, crimping while operating a camera will certainly make things complicated! I’m not saying one way is always better than the other, but for me and my tools and my fittings, I tried a few different ways and this way worked better to the others in my case.
Old vid, but I wanted to lend a tip I recently figured out... the insulated end on crimps comes off, so before crimping pull it off and slip it onto the wire like you would heat-shrink, then crimp and put the insulated piece back over the crimp end!
The Formbot kit I purchased had both 4Amp and 8Amp fuses. One I assume is for 110V the other for 240/250V but wanted to make sure. In swoops Scott with his fuse edit and the day is saved...again. Also the 2.4.R2 has three inlet covers 1mm, 1.2mm and filtered. The filtered is the one shown in the manual so I ran with that for the R2.
Sounds like you got it all figured out! Using the filtered inlet is a good idea. Their quality is better IMHO than the non-filtered inlets. Filtering the actual power never hurts either.
@@scottcorn I've had the insulation end up sliding off the crimp and down the wire leaving the connection bare, hoping to start wiring mine this weekend, with NON insulated crimp terminals and heat shrink 😁
Thank you for these videos Scott. The manual is not very helpful. Your format with the text on screen and the "what you need" breaks is really great. At first I wasn't a fan of the music but I'm actually starting to like it.
I was sooo annoyed, when I realised that the switch, the fuses and the self-tapping screws were missing from my BoM... Anyway, I used flathead screws (M3x12 FHCS) for mounting the power inlet in the end. They're just long enough to attach a nut on the other side and give it a bit more sturdiness. Those C14 power cords can be quite tight after all.
Yes, the kits can be annoying with missing/poor/wrong parts. I self sourced mine before shipping costs became way too high. Hopefully the rest of your build will go well.
In general anything that will conduct electricity and can be touched by the operator should be grounded. If there was a short it would return to the electrical outlet ground and not through the operator. In fact another viewer has pointed out to meet UL codes in the US I would need to ground directly to the frame first and then go from there. It also requires a star washer (they cut into metal). I may add this to the next build video. Haven't made up my mind yet.
The Crimp tool divot should be on the solid side, not the side with the seam. For Example: The crimp at 15:31 is on the wrong side. Do not modify the connectors, buy the correct size. When you trimmed the connector, you need to know, that it is no longer rated for its designed current. Here is a decent RUclips video showing the correct way. ruclips.net/video/UTMlSPQ2Yqw/видео.html
@@scottcorn I like that you're trying to keep them short - can't be easy either. So many videos I've found online were livestreams where part 1 is at 3+hours. That's not good for looking things up or for guidance. These videos are awesome. Thank you. 🙂
Great videos! in the Formbot kit I'v been building for ages the instructions show the cables to SSR 1 and 2 are connected in opposite order.. I have no idea how SSR works, so my question is, does it matter which is in and which is out?
Thank You. As long as the 1 and 2 lugs are marked as load it doesn't matter. If for some reason it has a + and - symbol it does matter. (I don't know your SSR brand) A SSR uses low voltage DC (the side with the + and -) to turn on high voltage AC (the load side and 1 and 2 on my SSR) . DC has a positive and a negative. AC does not. You do however need to run the load AC wire (black in US and my video) to the SSR load side. Don't run the neutral AC wire (white in US and my video) to the SSR.
I would be curious to know where you purchased the cables from! I'm having a hard time finding any small spools locally, and Amazon also sells spools for much larger than what I'm after. The sizes you show here are much more to my liking.
The black FEP wire came from KB3D. kb-3d.com/ It is lower cost than the PTFE. The red PTFE is directly from Remington industries. www.remingtonindustries.com/ So far I think I would recommend the FEP.
Just realized these wires are from my video not yet released. lol The wires in the in the last released video is Fermerry from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CPH72F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@scottcorn One more question. Where did you find the terminal connectors? My pack came in the mail today but they are all way too big for the 5v PSU, and just barely too large for the 24v..
Sorry, I got mine from Digi-Key. I looked for it on Amazon, but the kits where priced double what it should be and they look shady. Here is the Digi-Key link if that helps. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0766500159/2116044
It's been pointed out that I should have grounded the inlet ground wire to the frame instead of the Wago. This and a star washer (the kind that digs into metal) is required to meet UL requirements. The ground circuit stays the same, it just joins at the frame instead of the Wago. This is considered (and is) a safer way of grounding a device. I hope to have pictures up on the community tab tonight. (2/2/22) I also will put it as a correction in the next video.
I'm done building mine and boy did I struggle finding good videos like yours for the parts you haven't covered yet... Watching this anyway to make sure I did not do anything stupid with high voltage wiring.. Thanks a lot for making these.
Thank you
Scott thank you for your all effort , thanks to you i am no longer afraid of these cables .i am looking forward to your next video
You are very welcome
Scott you have no idea how much I've been waiting for this video.
Thank you. I'm starting on the low voltage (gantry) tomorrow.
Hands down the most excellent voron build video. Thank you so much for your effort in doing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Absolutely awesome Voron 2.4 build guides, I will definitely be viewing all these again when I get enough cash together to do the build myself. Keep up the excellent work.
Thank you
Your the man! Ive been following your videos as I build my 2.4 and just realized how recent they are. Im starting to put my psu's on tonight and cant wait for the next video!
Thank you. I'm working hard on the low voltage video. These things always take longer than I hope. lol
Thanks to you, I will be able to build my voron. Thank you for everything that you do, best guide on the internet. I cannot wait for the next part!
Thank you. I started on the next part last night.
I thank you for your detailed voron walktrou, at this moment im collecting material , but i will start building soon. This is a big help
Glad it was helpful! Thank you.
Just started building yesterday, So much fun. I asked my wife for a 350mm 2.4 and she accidentally ordered a 250mm so that caused some marital strain until I ordered a 350mm model myself then decided to build both of them.
Lol, I've started on my second now. A V0.2 LDO kit.
@@scottcorn no way, I was just looking at one. Makes me wonder how far advanced this technology will be in one to two years.
@@perfectscotty I don't know the Voron group is heading, but I hope it's a tool changer. I would like multi color/material, but I'm just not interested in purge blocks. It's just too wasteful for me.
I'm filming this build again so it will take me a bit. I hope to get a video out by the end of the day, but it may take a little longer.
Great job! I can only imagine how much work goes into filing while building and even more so with wiring. Hope your wife finds those sissors.
Thanks 👍
loving this series. built my entire voron so far based on your videos! Sad that I caught up now because I want to finish this beast!
Thank you. I've started on the next one. Hopefully I'll have electricity to continue tonight. We are in the middle of an ice storm where I'm at and the power is flickering. lol
Cant afford a voron myself atm so glad to watch other people build theirs
I know it took me a while to afford it.
@@scottcorn i decided to build a vzbot and use a tronxy x5sa and slowly upgrade it, they are cheaper than a voron and go vrooom 🤣
Cool
Excellent video with all the info required
Glad it was helpful!
I am an engineer and I haven’t touched normal wire stripper for years. The “cheap” automatic wire strippers can strip any wire you can come across perfectly except high voltage wires as they are too thick to fit in and you usually use a utility knife to strip those anyways. You just need to adjust the tension correctly by adjusting the thumbscrew. Insulated crimps are better and are easier to crimp and have higher crimping pressure than non-insulated crimps, you just need the right tool to crimp them.
Excellent video once again. I need to come up with some ideas of some mundane tasks for you to do so we can get more excellent instructionals. Like, cleaning out a dryer lint trap, or emptying the dishwasher.
Step by step.
Haha. But really, excellent work. I know it takes a lot to not only do this but to take the time and film it
Thank you. This one was a bit frustrating. It’s an afternoons work but to film it and edit it’s a couple of weeks. I do it in order by building, filming and editing a little at a time.
@@scottcorn I think you underestimate the value of laying it all out so clearly though. I’ve done this sort of wiring enough times and this is still super useful. I’m gonna basically be doing this exact step this evening and will be following along with how you’ve done it.
Thank you
Nate, I'm going to ground all the ground wires on the frame. LCD Consultant pointed out that to meet UL standards the ground has to go directly from the inlet to the chassis (frame). It also has to have a star washer (the kind that dig into the metal). The circuit stays the same. You just remove the extra ground wire to the frame. Put ring terminals on the remaining grounds and attach them to the t-nut we added to the frame. I hope to have something on the community tab this evening.
Scott, my UL guy would not allow the AC GND to be connected that way. The wire from the wall must go directly to the chassis with star washer. Not flat washer. Then extend the GND from there to supplies. Your wiring and heatshrink is fantastic
I’ll have to find a star washer. Was it a special type?
@@scottcorn The theory is the GRN wire from the wall must go directly to the chassis GND. I think your allowed more than one connector under that screw. It must include a star washer that would dig into the material and not corrode over time. If any of the other GNDs open the user is not in as much of a danger of a shock. The washer is just something with twists in it so it digs in.
This means you would have to bring your GND from the star setup to your WAGO unit as you have set it up. Personally I would be more worried about that heated BED than the rails since 120volts is sitting right next to it a few places. The rails are not near anything dangerous. Just static maybe. I just saw NERO reset his camera 6 feet away with static.
I saw that happen to him also. I just ordered some star washers from Amazon. We have a large ice storm coming in tonight. Hopefully these parts get her. lol
I think I'll ground them all there. It eliminates a wire also. Did some more research and of course you are correct. lol
The panel guy from work I talked to says it's just a matter of trying to eliminate as many failure points as possible. It also makes the distance to the inlet ground every so shorter. All for safety. Thanks for your help.
I'll put it up as a stand alone comment as a correction as well as in the next video.
15:27 I’m no professional, and certainly have very little experience with this exact procedure, but I found that by rotating the fitting 180° in the crimping tool from the way shown here, I was able to produce a better crimp that was perhaps stronger than the way that you did it. I use different tools and different consumables though so YMMV.
I was really clunky with the tool on video trying to get a clear shot. lol I watch myself on the next ones to see how I actually hold the tool while not filming.
@@scottcorn of course, crimping while operating a camera will certainly make things complicated! I’m not saying one way is always better than the other, but for me and my tools and my fittings, I tried a few different ways and this way worked better to the others in my case.
Old vid, but I wanted to lend a tip I recently figured out... the insulated end on crimps comes off, so before crimping pull it off and slip it onto the wire like you would heat-shrink, then crimp and put the insulated piece back over the crimp end!
The Formbot kit I purchased had both 4Amp and 8Amp fuses. One I assume is for 110V the other for 240/250V but wanted to make sure. In swoops Scott with his fuse edit and the day is saved...again. Also the 2.4.R2 has three inlet covers 1mm, 1.2mm and filtered. The filtered is the one shown in the manual so I ran with that for the R2.
Sounds like you got it all figured out! Using the filtered inlet is a good idea. Their quality is better IMHO than the non-filtered inlets. Filtering the actual power never hurts either.
Looking good 👍 with you on the insulated crimp terminals, I absolutely detest them.
You and me both! I don't like that to get them crimped well you end up exposing metal under the insulator. I also just don't like how the look. lol
@@scottcorn I've had the insulation end up sliding off the crimp and down the wire leaving the connection bare, hoping to start wiring mine this weekend, with NON insulated crimp terminals and heat shrink 😁
came here for the dope music as usual
Hopefully the volume is good also. I lowered it a bit this video. Still learning video production.
Funny i have a set of those same screwdrivers, but mine are "Pheonix Contact". Wera musta bought em awhile ago or something.
LETTSSSS GOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
Thank you
Thank you for these videos Scott. The manual is not very helpful. Your format with the text on screen and the "what you need" breaks is really great. At first I wasn't a fan of the music but I'm actually starting to like it.
Glad it was helpful! My musical tastes have always been strange. lol
Them silicone wires are what angels would've been if they were wires.
LOL thank you
Isn't the SSR supposed to be grounded too?
I was sooo annoyed, when I realised that the switch, the fuses and the self-tapping screws were missing from my BoM... Anyway, I used flathead screws (M3x12 FHCS) for mounting the power inlet in the end. They're just long enough to attach a nut on the other side and give it a bit more sturdiness. Those C14 power cords can be quite tight after all.
Yes, the kits can be annoying with missing/poor/wrong parts. I self sourced mine before shipping costs became way too high. Hopefully the rest of your build will go well.
Why are you grounding the frame? Haven't seen that in the assembly manual or any wiring guides.
In general anything that will conduct electricity and can be touched by the operator should be grounded. If there was a short it would return to the electrical outlet ground and not through the operator. In fact another viewer has pointed out to meet UL codes in the US I would need to ground directly to the frame first and then go from there. It also requires a star washer (they cut into metal). I may add this to the next build video. Haven't made up my mind yet.
Where did you source your wire and connectors from?
23:25 pour moi la mise à la terre est totalement inutile sur le cadre, il faudrait enlever la peinture sur chaque partie en contact
The Crimp tool divot should be on the solid side, not the side with the seam. For Example: The crimp at 15:31 is on the wrong side. Do not modify the connectors, buy the correct size. When you trimmed the connector, you need to know, that it is no longer rated for its designed current. Here is a decent RUclips video showing the correct way. ruclips.net/video/UTMlSPQ2Yqw/видео.html
Leettttsss gooo!!!
lol Don't hype it too much. I don't feel like I got enough done, but the video was already 35 minutes long.
@@scottcorn I like that you're trying to keep them short - can't be easy either. So many videos I've found online were livestreams where part 1 is at 3+hours. That's not good for looking things up or for guidance. These videos are awesome. Thank you. 🙂
@@sudo008 You're welcome. I'm glad people are finding them useful.
Great videos! in the Formbot kit I'v been building for ages the instructions show the cables to SSR 1 and 2 are connected in opposite order.. I have no idea how SSR works, so my question is, does it matter which is in and which is out?
Thank You.
As long as the 1 and 2 lugs are marked as load it doesn't matter. If for some reason it has a + and - symbol it does matter. (I don't know your SSR brand)
A SSR uses low voltage DC (the side with the + and -) to turn on high voltage AC (the load side and 1 and 2 on my SSR) . DC has a positive and a negative. AC does not.
You do however need to run the load AC wire (black in US and my video) to the SSR load side. Don't run the neutral AC wire (white in US and my video) to the SSR.
@@scottcorn Thanks! mine is almost identical to yours. Omron G3NB-210B-1 .. will connect the power tomorrow and see if smoke comes out! 😆
@@scottcorn no smoke so far! moving forwards 😁
@@jannekallio5047 Good! Glad to hear it.
I would be curious to know where you purchased the cables from! I'm having a hard time finding any small spools locally, and Amazon also sells spools for much larger than what I'm after. The sizes you show here are much more to my liking.
The black FEP wire came from KB3D. kb-3d.com/ It is lower cost than the PTFE.
The red PTFE is directly from Remington industries. www.remingtonindustries.com/
So far I think I would recommend the FEP.
Just realized these wires are from my video not yet released. lol
The wires in the in the last released video is Fermerry from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CPH72F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@scottcorn Awesome, thank you very much for the information!!
No problem.
@@scottcorn One more question. Where did you find the terminal connectors? My pack came in the mail today but they are all way too big for the 5v PSU, and just barely too large for the 24v..
Do you have a link to Molex connector kit on Amazon?
Sorry, I got mine from Digi-Key. I looked for it on Amazon, but the kits where priced double what it should be and they look shady.
Here is the Digi-Key link if that helps.
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0766500159/2116044