Thank you for doing this Scott. The live build that is on the Tube takes forever to do the same as the builder constantly enjoys multi directional " web- conversations " about unrelated subjects.
Thank you. I see why they stream. I think 10 times longer to get something done is about right with the way I'm doing it. I just happen to like the editing part also.
@@scottcorn ... and the results represent that fact. I am watching your work ( often RUclipss half speed ) to learn about the assembly steps. My build will be 1000mm in height and I am told the margins of error become compounded with the ratio of scale.
@@pixelsmaster5452 You are correct. A longer extrusion will show an imperfect angle more. Hopefully the Z belts can handle the added distance also. Being so much slower on the Z as compared to the other directions should help though.
I agree. I did watch them, but many many many fast forwards. I didn't so much mind the length, what bothered me was most of the talking wasn't explaining why and what he was doing. It was blathering on about other stuff. Still lots of good information, but we are looking for instruction, not banter.
Having watched each of the videos in this series I have to say that this is probably the best ‘how to’ of anything I have ever watched on You Tube. Thank you.
Hi Scott - I wanted to let you know that these are still bringing value to the Voron builder's community. I just got all of my LDO 2.4-350 boxes in today and will be using your videos for my main tutorial along with some shorter ones from others that catch me up with the rev D differences that have occurred since you made these. Just as a data point, I prefer your notated format over a voiceover as it allows me to pause on a step and see the instructions instead of having to replay a section several times if I don't understand the details.
Glad to help! I'm working on the final wiring video right now. This video is going to be a bit longer than I like, but I don't want to drag the wiring on anymore.
Yay, we built an expensive square! Gotta have a little humor while doing tedious work. Possible tip (just a tip ;) )I found that for doing the top rails, get your top rails with the end screws inserted, then flip the frame upside down on your table and insert each section underneath so you can still use the table as your flat surface so you dont need to keep fighting gravity when adding them. And yes, I have found that cursing is a necessary requirement for this build. Looking forward to completing the next steps with your guidance. Thank you for making the series.
@Scott Corn That's awesome! I'm glad to see you are nearing the finish line. I found another little alignment tip just a moment ago while double-checking the frame install from last night. Using two of the square rods as supports and a soft ended c clamp, using a rod on either side of the vertical support rod to where the 2 spare rods over lap the top horrizontal rod that Im trying to align, to keep it from twisting/shifting up or down while tightening. Just ran into another finicky one after replying and had to add another rail, laid down on top of the horrizontal rod, overlapping the corner of the verticle rod to keep it from shifting downward.
Without any doubt you made the best videos serie on the voron 2.4 build, all is clearly detailed i'm currently bullding mine and you are helping me a lot, thank you very much
I have seen many videos but I have to say I really enjoy yours a lot. Not much talk but exact details. I'm about to start my 2.4, printing on my SW now the parts and hopefully in a few weeks I can star the build. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and the next one.
Thank you. I've started on the second video, but I had to wait on a pulley I was out of to finish. With shipping the way it is, I won't get it until Monday.
Scott - I’ve been considering building a V2.4 for some time and YT just dropped your video in my feed. In 3 minutes of watching I knew your style was perfect and I immediately hit the subscribed and bell icons. Excellent summary and I’m certainly looking forward to fully watching the rest of the series. Thank you 👍👍😎👍👍
Every build provides a different perspective. In another video the builder used an extra extrusion to help keep the frame members aligned as they were tightened. He saved steps by just using the rails to align the t-nuts.
Love the ay you did this video - captioned steps and relaxing musing in the background. I'm also thinking about building a Voron. I need to get a printer to print all the necessary parts first. Anyway, keep up the good work. I'll keep following this series and most probably will use it during my build ;)
totally digging this! suggestion put the linear rail on the extrusion then use a pointy stick like a pencil with no lead, dip the tip in white paint then indicate your holes using the rail, take it off and put in the roll-ins, guide them over the white dot and put on the rail. skinning cats here
Thank you for this video. I encountered a 'feature' in frame 10:00/25:13. The bolt heads for the right angle 90* piece do not allow the second bolt to pass once they are installed. Both bolts need to be inserted prior to installation, lest the second bolt will not pass the first.
You are welcome. With button head screws there should be enough clearance. Did you use socket head screws maybe? Maybe your angle corner is different? It would stink if they are making them too tight anymore.
Scott, first I applaud your work. After building the frame it became obvious somebody screwed up and it wasn’t me. Once the frame was built I started to add the linear rails. Once it became obvious those 3 and 5mm fasteners in the kit are not going in those rails to bolt things down I reviewed your other videos. You gloss over that fact without resolving it for your viewers. You apparently just buy some additional fasteners that fit and move on and use the original ones later where possible. They are not cheap! I am going to take apart the frame and start over but this time insert all the fasteners into the rails before assembly of the cube. Interesting to do this early in the build since the skirt and enclosure plastics are held on by fasteners of mixed sizes and a pain to add later if you forget one. Also laying out all 10 long rails and building them with fasteners and end screws where needed before building the frame saves a lot of time going back and forth with the loctite and Allen wrench and fasteners. And to those guys that say loctite 242 does not work, your wrong. Those screws don’t come out as easy as they went in after a few days.😉
Thank you. At the time I saw it as an anomaly. I felt I shouldn't have strayed from the vendors that have good reputations with t-nuts. In other words I felt it was my fault for buying cheap parts. I also had ones that worked sitting in a bin beside me so I went with them as the normal experience feeling I was warning others to not buy cheap parts. Up until the 4th video they continued to work. As of the 4th video I've come to the conclusion that all China roll in t-nuts are currently having quality issues. While my "good" stock 100% fit on the first video frame build, the same t-nuts did not work on all the extrusions on my 4th video. These t-nuts came from the recommended Ali vendor and even a US reseller. I ended up using the cheap ones from the first video and shoving them in from the end in the 4th video. As far as not making a bigger deal about it, I would like to think the quality issues will be corrected at some point. They did work correctly until recently. So the expected experience would be to roll them in. I like the 242 as good enough without making it too hard to remove later. The nail polish that some push isn't any stronger IMHO. The way I see it is if I have losening problems I'll try stronger at that time. I don't want to make something that can't be disassembled later. I also have to think about making a video. I've taken things apart to re-video more than I care to admit.
I'm working on Afterburner and the extruder now. I have to do the bed and Z belts + misc after that. Then the wiring. Sorry, it takes forever to make the videos.
@Scott Corn. I have been able to get a huge amount of help from your videos so thank you for that. I am curious however as to why no mention of packing the linear rails with lube (grease or otherwise) is not done as this seems not best practice but mandatory for rails protection and effective long term, consist use. This has actually led me to pause my build at the hot-end install stage and work out how to lubricate without removal. In my case this ends up being syringe with small blunt end. remove end bearing caps which are screwed on as my bearings do not have a convenient injection hole like many do (thanks Formbot).
Thank you. I only packed lube (super lube) with the rail off to one of mine. This one was so poor I had to find the bad bearing and replace it. The others I used the spray super lube from the end. I do this fairly regularly. Not saying it is the best way, just the way I did it.
I am glad you have taken the time to do this as those live builds are just a boring waste of time. I will also do one. just a suggestion... could it have been possible to just sit the top frames into the slots on all 4 sides and just friction tighten each screw then flip the frame over 180° so all the top parts are now sitting on the flat surface so that alignment is the same as the beginning of the assembly process. Just my 2 cents (constructive suggestions) worth.
Starting a build next week that was your video that found the more explicit. Thanks a lot. I was wondering what would be the torque to apply on the M3 screws. Is yours size 300mm ?
I don't mind. I've had trouble with other printers (TwoTrees) with Z lead screws causing ringing. I also like the idea of the weight of the bed being fixed at the bottom of the printer. I really do think the V2 is the (current) peak of 3D printer design. I think they will improve on it even further with their changes set to announce Saturday I think? With that said I may build a Trident in the future just for the fun of building it.
@@scottcorn Interesting. I'm trying to decide what Voron to build and there are so many options now. Was leaning trident since everyone said it's the newest design and it's a little cheaper to build. I see people still building the V2 so it makes me curious. I don't want to get sucked into the "latest is greatest" routine. Thank you, Scott.
Yes, the latest is hard to do. I think come Saturday V2 will be the latest (probably V2.5). The Trident is a good printer though. I just worry about getting straight lead screws out of China. I hear less than straight doesn't hurt it too bad, but I've just not seen that with my CNC builds. I've never built a Trindent so I can't be an authority on that. Sorry I'm not being very helpful. lol
This is probably the most detailed but succinct guide on youtube for Voron assembly. I have a question though: when mounting the rails, people often say that when mounted into the 6mm slot, the rails need to be "offset" so that when the acrylic panels are attached at the of the build, they don't touch or scrape against the gantry. Could you explain where this offset is, because as fat as I'm aware screwing the rail into the extrusion with the plastic guides is going to center it on the extrusion, so where is this offset?
Just to make sure I wasn't wrong, I ask on the Discord. It was this way on V2.2 but is now centered on V2.4. I haven't printed them yet, but I think the clearance is now baked into the panel mounts. Things change quickly on these printers. lol I remembered the offset when you brought it up and thought oh crap... lol
Wonderful! This is really going to help me with my build. The only thing I dont have is the granite surface but I do have a very sturdy workshop bench so hopefully thats enough.
Should be good enough. You just need to make sure extrusions a flush where they should be and printed parts are not excessively warped. none of it will keep things from working, but the closer you get on everything the better your results will be in the end.
You can be sure the spring nuts are fully in place before the rail goes on. You attach the hammer heads to the rail and they may not rotate into place when tightening.
Notes to self: insert the t-nuts before building the frame. Insert printed spacers between t-nuts. Use nord-lock washers and loctite where possible. Use a torque-wrench.
It's fairly important. If you are talking a fraction of a millimeter up to maybe around one millimeter then you are ok. If you are talking more than that it will affect your print quality.
Yes it may be, I had considered that. In the end I decided to follow the current manual so I didn't potentially confuse people. I hear they are redoing the manual so it may not matter, but just what I decided to do.
is that a 30" depth desk as the work surface in the video? just trying to gauge the physical scale of the cube for the 350. And cursing a little is allowed, its a part of constructing things and likely motivates the parts to do what they should. ;)
The drop in nuts should make this unnecessary if they fit. Trying to get all the nuts in beforehand is a pain. I'm building a V0 right now that needs the nuts first. I always seem to forget at least one nut and you have to disassemble parts to get correct it.
Wow, 650mm. That’s a huge size. Getting some of the parts that big will be challenging. You will have to do a video of it or at least some progress pictures. Good luck.
@@lcdconsultant5252 after watching more videos about the 2.4 I scaling it back and building the 350mm cubed so I can assess if the components will be capable steppers belts and the abs parts, maybe take smaller steps 350 then 450, 550, 650, Nothing more discouraging than spending all that time building something and it breaks the first time you use it.
@@nigozeroichi2501 I checked on the bed heater and 500mm is the largest from the preferred vendor. I was thinking the 2020 rails might be a little small at twice the distance as most. Might have to bump that up one size. I have not done any math to make that a fact, just a concern. Can I ask what you want to print that big? It will take a few days or weeks to print that big.
The fasteners kit that I had issue with came from AliExpress Shop4419100 Store. The hardware other than that is from Voron sourcing guide AliExpress vendors. My extrusions are Misumi.
You probably could. You would have to figure out how to mount the panels over them . Keep in mind there are several thousand of these out there now. I’ve not heard of any big problems with the blind joints.
@@scottcorn Ahhh enclosure pannels also ad some rigidity in the same way a gusset does. I forgot these kits come with those. I am considering building one of these myself and your video series is an excellent instructional for building it.
Yes, I'm a bit of a Hakko fan boy. I bought the FX-951 new. I bought the FX-888D and FA-430 fume extractor used on Ebay fairly cheap. The fume extractor works well for ABS fumes also.
@@scottcorn that’s a fantastic idea. I bought industrial fan with tubing for that. I regret it. So noisy. There is no cheap way to reduce the speed of this induction motor now. I’m guessing your Hakko will be fairly silent.
I wouldn't say silent, but not bad. They cost a lot new, but if you can find a used one it's pretty good. I think with new filters and a part that was missing I have around $200 in it.
Really nice video. I think i will create a template for t-nut positions for the rails, rater than the tape method shown. A piece of cardboard with the holes market, and cut to length to give the 3 mm spacing should make the process easier. I think I heard that the top most screw hole should be left without a screw, it will interfere in a later step if it used now. Lastly, don't notice that you used any thread locker, saving it for a rainy day? :-)
Thank you. The cardboard is a good idea. I tend to grab painters tape for everything. lol It seems like I remember not using that screw also from some stream. Do you or anyone else remember what this interferes with? I'll be filming and editing adding the bottom and Z drives to the frame for the next video this evening. It would be good to know. The no thread locker on the frame had more to do with filming the build than anything. I can't tell you how many times I had to redo the assembly because of bumped camera etc. I did use it on the Z drive pulleys on the next video (and did have to redo several times) so I guess the answer is I could have. I may add it off camera.
@@scottcorn I am so glad I don't have a build mine on camera - can only imagine. I searched on information on the top screw in z, but came up empty. So I guess it's my imagination.
@@janpetersen8441 I think I remember Nero telling Tom Sanladerer that when he was live streaming his build. I can't really find anything either. Guess I'll see sooner or later as I progress.
i would just insert screbs and railnutz into the rail...just 2 threads..put the extrusion vertically..slit the rails mit nuts in from top..then align it in the end...would use a didital depth caliper to check it
just ordered my LDO kit, im certain these videos will be invaluable. Thanks Scott. EDIT: since you seem to be looking for constructive criticism, why not just voice over the video. You left the audio track in there anyway, just explain as your doing something. Reading all the text is annoying. I love all the great information, but we would love to hear your superfluous voice. Subbed.
GAAAAAAHHH!😬 I've barely started and I'm ready to pull what's left of my hair out, living in anti-metric America local hardware and big box diy stores only carry minimal amounts of M5 and M3 fasteners at $1- $2 PER SCREW! ugh😩 checked AZN ok M2-M5 assortments reasonably priced and nextday👍just received the assortments🤯the 2020 extrusions I received the centre hole appears to be for M6🤬 at least the slots are to spec for the T nuts thankfully. Welp I guess I'll have to use #10-24 screws for the frame I am NOT paying $2 per screw that's no even gold plated, and I want to get the frame together tonight. Sorry for the vent, but living alone I need a sympathetic ear once in a while. I suppose I should join Discord or a voron forum. Cheers Correction #12-24 screws
@@scottcorn yeah I went to the sourcing guide, clicked the link, placed my order with them, they have some really good prices, wish I knew about them at my last job, thanks👍
Neither of those t-nuts look right, the screw hole should be centred (Hammerhead). With the centre hole style you can attach them to your parts with a few threads, drop the part in the correct place and they rotate into position without lining them up first.
@@scottcorn Where you attached the bed supports and the linear guide rails. If you google T-Nuts hammerhead you should find the correct versions which have a spiral on top which only allows them to spin 90 degrees as you tighten the bolts.
@@TheGalifrey I hope so also. The guides show it as centered. I also just measured with my calipers and it is offset by .15 mm one side to the other in the area I checked. Not sure of the tolerances on everything.
Nice video but would be soo much better if you lose the horrible music and just narrate what you are doing. You don’t have to talk all the time, just say what is on your callouts.
I may put a little more talking in the next episode. I'm not the clearest of speakers. Was the music too loud? I struggled with that. On my TV it was way too soft and on my PC it seemed loud. I'm going for better music this time also. I just used the free RUclips studio music on the last one.
Thank you for doing this Scott. The live build that is on the Tube takes forever to do the same as the builder constantly enjoys multi directional " web- conversations " about unrelated subjects.
Thank you. I see why they stream. I think 10 times longer to get something done is about right with the way I'm doing it. I just happen to like the editing part also.
@@scottcorn ... and the results represent that fact. I am watching your work ( often RUclipss half speed ) to learn about the assembly steps. My build will be 1000mm in height and I am told the margins of error become compounded with the ratio of scale.
@@pixelsmaster5452 You are correct. A longer extrusion will show an imperfect angle more. Hopefully the Z belts can handle the added distance also. Being so much slower on the Z as compared to the other directions should help though.
This is way better than a live build! Well done and keep up the good job!
Thank you. I'm working on the second one now.
I agree. I did watch them, but many many many fast forwards. I didn't so much mind the length, what bothered me was most of the talking wasn't explaining why and what he was doing. It was blathering on about other stuff. Still lots of good information, but we are looking for instruction, not banter.
Having watched each of the videos in this series I have to say that this is probably the best ‘how to’ of anything I have ever watched on You Tube. Thank you.
Hi Scott - I wanted to let you know that these are still bringing value to the Voron builder's community. I just got all of my LDO 2.4-350 boxes in today and will be using your videos for my main tutorial along with some shorter ones from others that catch me up with the rev D differences that have occurred since you made these. Just as a data point, I prefer your notated format over a voiceover as it allows me to pause on a step and see the instructions instead of having to replay a section several times if I don't understand the details.
nice, me too
Thanks, Scott looks like you will be my go-to person when I start building just waiting on the parts to arrive.
Officially the gold standard guide for building Vorons. Thank you.
Glad to help! I'm working on the final wiring video right now. This video is going to be a bit longer than I like, but I don't want to drag the wiring on anymore.
Yay, we built an expensive square! Gotta have a little humor while doing tedious work. Possible tip (just a tip ;) )I found that for doing the top rails, get your top rails with the end screws inserted, then flip the frame upside down on your table and insert each section underneath so you can still use the table as your flat surface so you dont need to keep fighting gravity when adding them. And yes, I have found that cursing is a necessary requirement for this build. Looking forward to completing the next steps with your guidance. Thank you for making the series.
Thank you and you're welcome. I'm sitting here working on testing the printer at the moment. I might push the first plastic any day now.
@Scott Corn That's awesome! I'm glad to see you are nearing the finish line. I found another little alignment tip just a moment ago while double-checking the frame install from last night.
Using two of the square rods as supports and a soft ended c clamp, using a rod on either side of the vertical support rod to where the 2 spare rods over lap the top horrizontal rod that Im trying to align, to keep it from twisting/shifting up or down while tightening. Just ran into another finicky one after replying and had to add another rail, laid down on top of the horrizontal rod, overlapping the corner of the verticle rod to keep it from shifting downward.
Without any doubt you made the best videos serie on the voron 2.4 build, all is clearly detailed i'm currently bullding mine and you are helping me a lot, thank you very much
Great to hear and thank you!
Thank you so much for showing all procedures in very detail manner! I could built one without problem!
I just purchased a 2.4 kit and am enjoying watching your build videos as I wait for it to arrive.
Thank you.
I should finish episode 7 video tonight. Hopefully the editing tomorrow night. Next week will finally be wiring.
Bardzo pomocny film, jeden z lepszych na RUclips, pozdrawiam z Polski 🇵🇱
Dziękuję
I have seen many videos but I have to say I really enjoy yours a lot. Not much talk but exact details. I'm about to start my 2.4, printing on my SW now the parts and hopefully in a few weeks I can star the build. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and the next one.
Thank you. I've started on the second video, but I had to wait on a pulley I was out of to finish. With shipping the way it is, I won't get it until Monday.
This man has excellent taste in tools. The Quick 861D + Hakko FX-951 is a great combo.
Couldn't agree more! I'm a bit of a Hakko fan boy. lol
Scott - I’ve been considering building a V2.4 for some time and YT just dropped your video in my feed. In 3 minutes of watching I knew your style was perfect and I immediately hit the subscribed and bell icons. Excellent summary and I’m certainly looking forward to fully watching the rest of the series. Thank you 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you. I'm working on video 4 after work.
Underrated RUclipsr.
Thank you
Every build provides a different perspective. In another video the builder used an extra extrusion to help keep the frame members aligned as they were tightened. He saved steps by just using the rails to align the t-nuts.
Love the ay you did this video - captioned steps and relaxing musing in the background. I'm also thinking about building a Voron. I need to get a printer to print all the necessary parts first. Anyway, keep up the good work. I'll keep following this series and most probably will use it during my build ;)
Thank you. I'm starting work on the 5th one this evening.
I have never told a man I love them. But I think you might earn one at the end of this!!!
Lol Thank you!
totally digging this! suggestion put the linear rail on the extrusion then use a pointy stick like a pencil with no lead, dip the tip in white paint then indicate your holes using the rail, take it off and put in the roll-ins, guide them over the white dot and put on the rail. skinning cats here
Great tip! Thanks
Thank you for this video. I encountered a 'feature' in frame 10:00/25:13. The bolt heads for the right angle 90* piece do not allow the second bolt to pass once they are installed. Both bolts need to be inserted prior to installation, lest the second bolt will not pass the first.
You are welcome.
With button head screws there should be enough clearance.
Did you use socket head screws maybe? Maybe your angle corner is different? It would stink if they are making them too tight anymore.
What can i say. That series is perfect.
Thank you
Scott, first I applaud your work.
After building the frame it became obvious somebody screwed up and it wasn’t me.
Once the frame was built I started to add the linear rails. Once it became obvious those 3 and 5mm fasteners in the kit are not going in those rails to bolt things down I reviewed your other videos. You gloss over that fact without resolving it for your viewers. You apparently just buy some additional fasteners that fit and move on and use the original ones later where possible. They are not cheap!
I am going to take apart the frame and start over but this time insert all the fasteners into the rails before assembly of the cube.
Interesting to do this early in the build since the skirt and enclosure plastics are held on by fasteners of mixed sizes and a pain to add later if you forget one.
Also laying out all 10 long rails and building them with fasteners and end screws where needed before building the frame saves a lot of time going back and forth with the loctite and Allen wrench and fasteners. And to those guys that say loctite 242 does not work, your wrong. Those screws don’t come out as easy as they went in after a few days.😉
Thank you.
At the time I saw it as an anomaly. I felt I shouldn't have strayed from the vendors that have good reputations with t-nuts. In other words I felt it was my fault for buying cheap parts. I also had ones that worked sitting in a bin beside me so I went with them as the normal experience feeling I was warning others to not buy cheap parts.
Up until the 4th video they continued to work. As of the 4th video I've come to the conclusion that all China roll in t-nuts are currently having quality issues. While my "good" stock 100% fit on the first video frame build, the same t-nuts did not work on all the extrusions on my 4th video. These t-nuts came from the recommended Ali vendor and even a US reseller.
I ended up using the cheap ones from the first video and shoving them in from the end in the 4th video.
As far as not making a bigger deal about it, I would like to think the quality issues will be corrected at some point. They did work correctly until recently. So the expected experience would be to roll them in.
I like the 242 as good enough without making it too hard to remove later. The nail polish that some push isn't any stronger IMHO. The way I see it is if I have losening problems I'll try stronger at that time. I don't want to make something that can't be disassembled later. I also have to think about making a video. I've taken things apart to re-video more than I care to admit.
Scott, when are you going to get to the next part? I am ready to do some wiring!
I'm working on Afterburner and the extruder now. I have to do the bed and Z belts + misc after that. Then the wiring. Sorry, it takes forever to make the videos.
Thanks for the video, Love your way in the demonstration 😅
My parts arriving next week, I am priming myself by watching this series.
Have fun with the build!
@Scott Corn. I have been able to get a huge amount of help from your videos so thank you for that. I am curious however as to why no mention of packing the linear rails with lube (grease or otherwise) is not done as this seems not best practice but mandatory for rails protection and effective long term, consist use.
This has actually led me to pause my build at the hot-end install stage and work out how to lubricate without removal. In my case this ends up being syringe with small blunt end. remove end bearing caps which are screwed on as my bearings do not have a convenient injection hole like many do (thanks Formbot).
Thank you.
I only packed lube (super lube) with the rail off to one of mine. This one was so poor I had to find the bad bearing and replace it. The others I used the spray super lube from the end. I do this fairly regularly. Not saying it is the best way, just the way I did it.
Hi Scott, What lube do you use for the linear guide and carriage?
I'm waiting for my 2.4 kit to arrive. This looks much better than following the manual.
Thank you!
I am glad you have taken the time to do this as those live builds are just a boring waste of time. I will also do one. just a suggestion... could it have been possible to just sit the top frames into the slots on all 4 sides and just friction tighten each screw then flip the frame over 180° so all the top parts are now sitting on the flat surface so that alignment is the same as the beginning of the assembly process. Just my 2 cents (constructive suggestions) worth.
Well done Scott!
Thank you
@scottcorn Hi, could you tell the diameter of the holes in the B Extrusion?
Cool video, thank you!
Thank you too!
Starting a build next week that was your video that found the more explicit. Thanks a lot. I was wondering what would be the torque to apply on the M3 screws.
Is yours size 300mm ?
Hello Scott,
What was your reason for going with a 2.4 over trident? If you don't mind me asking.
Thanks,
Dan
I don't mind.
I've had trouble with other printers (TwoTrees) with Z lead screws causing ringing. I also like the idea of the weight of the bed being fixed at the bottom of the printer.
I really do think the V2 is the (current) peak of 3D printer design. I think they will improve on it even further with their changes set to announce Saturday I think?
With that said I may build a Trident in the future just for the fun of building it.
@@scottcorn Interesting. I'm trying to decide what Voron to build and there are so many options now. Was leaning trident since everyone said it's the newest design and it's a little cheaper to build. I see people still building the V2 so it makes me curious. I don't want to get sucked into the "latest is greatest" routine.
Thank you, Scott.
Yes, the latest is hard to do. I think come Saturday V2 will be the latest (probably V2.5). The Trident is a good printer though. I just worry about getting straight lead screws out of China. I hear less than straight doesn't hurt it too bad, but I've just not seen that with my CNC builds. I've never built a Trindent so I can't be an authority on that. Sorry I'm not being very helpful. lol
This is probably the most detailed but succinct guide on youtube for Voron assembly. I have a question though: when mounting the rails, people often say that when mounted into the 6mm slot, the rails need to be "offset" so that when the acrylic panels are attached at the of the build, they don't touch or scrape against the gantry. Could you explain where this offset is, because as fat as I'm aware screwing the rail into the extrusion with the plastic guides is going to center it on the extrusion, so where is this offset?
Just to make sure I wasn't wrong, I ask on the Discord. It was this way on V2.2 but is now centered on V2.4. I haven't printed them yet, but I think the clearance is now baked into the panel mounts. Things change quickly on these printers. lol I remembered the offset when you brought it up and thought oh crap... lol
Wonderful! This is really going to help me with my build. The only thing I dont have is the granite surface but I do have a very sturdy workshop bench so hopefully thats enough.
Should be good enough. You just need to make sure extrusions a flush where they should be and printed parts are not excessively warped. none of it will keep things from working, but the closer you get on everything the better your results will be in the end.
Did you use a thread lock compound and have have you seen any loosening of parts?
@@Purplemana I didn't. I've not had any loosening yet, but it is not yet powered. I'm finishing the wiring this week.
@@scottcorn Looking forward to the next video
@@Festivejelly Thank you.
i wonder what are advantages to using spring t nuts instead of hammer head t nuts for rails?
You can be sure the spring nuts are fully in place before the rail goes on. You attach the hammer heads to the rail and they may not rotate into place when tightening.
Notes to self: insert the t-nuts before building the frame. Insert printed spacers between t-nuts. Use nord-lock washers and loctite where possible. Use a torque-wrench.
This playlist should be taught at schools
Thank you!
how much imperfection would you say is acceptable? is having a perfectly square frame critical to the entire build?
It's fairly important. If you are talking a fraction of a millimeter up to maybe around one millimeter then you are ok. If you are talking more than that it will affect your print quality.
Thank you for doing!
My pleasure!
Wouldnt it work to make 4 of the initial 3 piece assemblies then flip 2 and assemble into the initial cube?
Yes it may be, I had considered that. In the end I decided to follow the current manual so I didn't potentially confuse people. I hear they are redoing the manual so it may not matter, but just what I decided to do.
can you give me a link to download the 3D model to print it? I can't find the link to download it. Thank you
Sorry, RUclips didn't notify me of your post until today.
All the STLs for a v2.4 are here:
github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/STLs
is that a 30" depth desk as the work surface in the video? just trying to gauge the physical scale of the cube for the 350.
And cursing a little is allowed, its a part of constructing things and likely motivates the parts to do what they should. ;)
It's a 24" deep work surface. I'm afraid I curse too much. lol
shouldn't you have put the T-nuts in BEFORE putting the frame together? or am i missing something here?
The drop in nuts should make this unnecessary if they fit. Trying to get all the nuts in beforehand is a pain. I'm building a V0 right now that needs the nuts first. I always seem to forget at least one nut and you have to disassemble parts to get correct it.
@@scottcorn ah yikes, yeah then these do seem more favorable haha
@@CodeBroRob Yes, nothing worse than undoing work to put in a forgotten nut.
@@scottcorn oh yeah i actually had this with an old printer i bought in 2018 that had this exact issue, hence my initial comment lol
Nice, I'm able to see what I'm getting myself into. Hoping to end up with a 650mm cube print capacity.
That's a big printer. lol
I'm trying to get the 4th one out yet today. If my editor would stop crashing on render I might yet.
Wow, 650mm. That’s a huge size. Getting some of the parts that big will be challenging.
You will have to do a video of it or at least some progress pictures. Good luck.
@@lcdconsultant5252 after watching more videos about the 2.4 I scaling it back and building the 350mm cubed so I can assess if the components will be capable steppers belts and the abs parts, maybe take smaller steps 350 then 450, 550, 650,
Nothing more discouraging than spending all that time building something and it breaks the first time you use it.
@@nigozeroichi2501 I checked on the bed heater and 500mm is the largest from the preferred vendor.
I was thinking the 2020 rails might be a little small at twice the distance as most. Might have to bump that up one size.
I have not done any math to make that a fact, just a concern.
Can I ask what you want to print that big? It will take a few days or weeks to print that big.
Scott, which supplier did you purchase the kit from?
The fasteners kit that I had issue with came from AliExpress Shop4419100 Store. The hardware other than that is from Voron sourcing guide AliExpress vendors. My extrusions are Misumi.
@@scottcorn great choice
can this be built as a 400x400x400 printer
I would advise against it. The belt sizes would just be too small once you get over 350 in my opinion.
hi i broke one of my Linear Rail MGN9H for my voron 2.4 350 what size rails do i need to replace it?
A 350 uses 400mm length linear rails.
if you turn the open frame to the bottom you dont need a third hand. And why not placing the nuts for the rails in before you close it???
For anyone dealing with the extrusions, just use some duct tape as stoppers or to hold the top ones in place while you screw the other side in
Cool, thanks for the tip.
would you be able to add corner gusset plates on the outside? I don't completley trust those single sets of aluminum threads in each corner...
You probably could. You would have to figure out how to mount the panels over them . Keep in mind there are several thousand of these out there now. I’ve not heard of any big problems with the blind joints.
@@scottcorn Ahhh enclosure pannels also ad some rigidity in the same way a gusset does. I forgot these kits come with those. I am considering building one of these myself and your video series is an excellent instructional for building it.
@@SNeal5966 thank you
You can use some clamps
Dig your Hakko setup
Yes, I'm a bit of a Hakko fan boy. I bought the FX-951 new. I bought the FX-888D and FA-430 fume extractor used on Ebay fairly cheap. The fume extractor works well for ABS fumes also.
@@scottcorn that’s a fantastic idea. I bought industrial fan with tubing for that. I regret it. So noisy. There is no cheap way to reduce the speed of this induction motor now. I’m guessing your Hakko will be fairly silent.
I wouldn't say silent, but not bad. They cost a lot new, but if you can find a used one it's pretty good. I think with new filters and a part that was missing I have around $200 in it.
It does scrub pretty much everything out of the air and has a HEPA filter.
Really nice video. I think i will create a template for t-nut positions for the rails, rater than the tape method shown. A piece of cardboard with the holes market, and cut to length to give the 3 mm spacing should make the process easier.
I think I heard that the top most screw hole should be left without a screw, it will interfere in a later step if it used now.
Lastly, don't notice that you used any thread locker, saving it for a rainy day? :-)
Thank you. The cardboard is a good idea. I tend to grab painters tape for everything. lol
It seems like I remember not using that screw also from some stream. Do you or anyone else remember what this interferes with? I'll be filming and editing adding the bottom and Z drives to the frame for the next video this evening. It would be good to know.
The no thread locker on the frame had more to do with filming the build than anything. I can't tell you how many times I had to redo the assembly because of bumped camera etc. I did use it on the Z drive pulleys on the next video (and did have to redo several times) so I guess the answer is I could have. I may add it off camera.
@@scottcorn I am so glad I don't have a build mine on camera - can only imagine.
I searched on information on the top screw in z, but came up empty. So I guess it's my imagination.
@@janpetersen8441 I think I remember Nero telling Tom Sanladerer that when he was live streaming his build. I can't really find anything either. Guess I'll see sooner or later as I progress.
i would just insert screbs and railnutz into the rail...just 2 threads..put the extrusion vertically..slit the rails mit nuts in from top..then align it in the end...would use a didital depth caliper to check it
The surface plate doesn’t seem to be necessary or really that helpful, am I wrong?
You just need a flat surface to help line things up. A surface plate is probably overkill. I already had one because I also do metal working.
@@scottcorn gotcha ty for reply, really clean video also
Can you share the .Step file ?
The step files are all on the Voron github here:
github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/STLs
just ordered my LDO kit, im certain these videos will be invaluable. Thanks Scott. EDIT: since you seem to be looking for constructive criticism, why not just voice over the video. You left the audio track in there anyway, just explain as your doing something. Reading all the text is annoying. I love all the great information, but we would love to hear your superfluous voice. Subbed.
GAAAAAAHHH!😬 I've barely started and I'm ready to pull what's left of my hair out, living in anti-metric America local hardware and big box diy stores only carry minimal amounts of M5 and M3 fasteners at $1- $2 PER SCREW! ugh😩 checked AZN ok M2-M5 assortments reasonably priced and nextday👍just received the assortments🤯the 2020 extrusions I received the centre hole appears to be for M6🤬 at least the slots are to spec for the T nuts thankfully. Welp I guess I'll have to use #10-24 screws for the frame I am NOT paying $2 per screw that's no even gold plated, and I want to get the frame together tonight.
Sorry for the vent, but living alone I need a sympathetic ear once in a while.
I suppose I should join Discord or a voron forum. Cheers
Correction #12-24 screws
Try BoltDepot.com . They are cheaper than the big box stores. They ship fairly fast also.
@@scottcorn yeah I went to the sourcing guide, clicked the link, placed my order with them, they have some really good prices, wish I knew about them at my last job, thanks👍
Neither of those t-nuts look right, the screw hole should be centred (Hammerhead). With the centre hole style you can attach them to your parts with a few threads, drop the part in the correct place and they rotate into position without lining them up first.
So I understand, what part are you talking about?
@@scottcorn Where you attached the bed supports and the linear guide rails. If you google T-Nuts hammerhead you should find the correct versions which have a spiral on top which only allows them to spin 90 degrees as you tighten the bolts.
I see. I used roll in t-nuts and relied on the centering tool to keep rails centered.
@@scottcorn Fingers crossed it works ok, but they do make assembly a lot harder.
@@TheGalifrey I hope so also. The guides show it as centered. I also just measured with my calipers and it is offset by .15 mm one side to the other in the area I checked. Not sure of the tolerances on everything.
Nice video but would be soo much better if you lose the horrible music and just narrate what you are doing. You don’t have to talk all the time, just say what is on your callouts.
I may put a little more talking in the next episode. I'm not the clearest of speakers. Was the music too loud? I struggled with that. On my TV it was way too soft and on my PC it seemed loud. I'm going for better music this time also. I just used the free RUclips studio music on the last one.