SHOCKING TRUTH ABOUT @chrisfix ‘s BRAKE FLUSH AND BLEED METHOD ON MODERN VEHICLES
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
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Back to basics today. Let’s work on the brakes together!
When was the last time you serviced your brake fluid? Never, I bet, unless something went very wrong with your braking system right?
In this video, we will be using @chrisfix ‘s brake service technique. The question is, will it work on this Alfa Romeo Mito and Toyota Auris? The answer is in the video so keep watching! :D
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No one has yet said why the pad nipple has to go in the slot on the piston. It’s only applicable on rear callipers with mechanical handbrake. The nipple stops the piston rotating thus allowing the internal one way advancing thread to work to take up the gap as the pads wear. If there is no nipple or it’s not installed right the piston will rotate and not advance forward on the thread. Hence the right hand and left turn piston pushers.
Perfect explanation mate! Will have this pinned. This will definitely help people learn
10:55 You highlighted the most important part of rewinding the pistons in the caliper. Lining the piston notch, so the nipple on the back of the inner brake pads sit within that notch! Lot's of mechanics have made this mistake, which resulted in the inner brake pad wearing quicker and in a wedge shape. I have seen this happen when replacing the pads. Good bit of advice on this very good video.
The left and right means left hand thread and right hand thread on the tool. So for example a lot of fords like transits and mondeos have left hand threat to wind it back on one side of the car
Thank you! This is why I love everyone here. Another question answered, another lesson learnt 🙏🏾
Thank you again
No problem mate, your a great mechanic. love the videos keep them coming 👊
Peugeots were also bad for one side of the car having left to turn piston and right on the other side
WD40 and most other maintenance sprays will kill the rubber boots on the caliper piston and/or slider pins by swelling them and making them baggy.....which will let water and dirt in.
Only use silicone grease or red rubber grease on rubber parts 👍
YES! I learned that when I soaked the slider pins from a 2003 Honda Accord in WD40 overnight. The little rubber bushings on the end swelled up and fell right off.
Your right about copper grease on brakes. It's a no go. I used to work at Audi, and we never used coppers grease. We used plastilube.
It creates something called galvanic corrosion ( white corrosion). When two dissimilar metals are used together. For example copper and cast iron.
Finally found out why rear brakes on various of my vehicles were binding. Must remove all corrosion from the groove that carries the piston seal, even the tiniest amount of corrosion in that groove will cause the piston to bind. I had to use a dental pick because it was a mission getting around the screw thread for the piston. fill void behind rubber cover with a wet rubber friendly heat proof silicone grease.
I like to spray the carrier down with brake cleaner before wire brushing as it helps prevent that nasty dust getting in the air and your lungs.....
Edit, 1 more thing, when pushing pistons back in make sure your bleed nipple is open, lots of ABS systems dont like that fluid being pushed backwards through them!
Over 37 years of messing with cars I’ve tried every different brake slider grease and find that ceramic grease is the way to go for sliders and pad friction points. 👍🏻
You’re still a top lad with your practices and your brother & co pilot are also excellent workers.
Keep up the videos I’m always watching.
Thankyou
Fm Dan
My local motor factors sell mainly Apec brakes and i quite like them tbh, they seem decent quality and had no issues so far. They also sell tubes of brake grease (for the ears of pads etc) and brake slider grease. I have started using this stuff religiously and again zero issues.
@@rhysevans9611 though i also have a kit with "slider" "pins" and "pads" grease, I don't know what typres of grease they are, would be interesting to know
Is it just me or is John look hotter and hotter every new episode.
😂😂😂 ffs hahahahahahah!
You know what. Let’s see how many likes this comment get 😂
stop simping
He's hair is Epic.. he could be the New BLADE (Wesley Snipes)
Just you…
Not only Hot as Feck, but seemingly great personality.
Left hand thread, right hand thread.
That is clockwise or anti clockwise, depending which vehicle you are working on. Transit for example is left hand thread nearside
Got ya! Thank you 😁
Generally good work, and you're right about flushing the ABS pump.
I would do some things differently though,
1. That brake hose failed because the rubber boot traps moisture, since it's an older car, you should've inspected and probably advised to replace the other side as well, if not all 4.
2. Use a 6 sided socket to initially brake loose the bleeder, especially on older cars where they might be overtightened or corroded due to lack of maintenance.
3. I'm not familiar with Alfa Romeo, but normally there is also a bleeder on the ABS pump itself where you can flush new fluid through it.
4. Don't mix the slide pin grease, you have no idea if they're compatible and they could gum up and seize. Clean the old stuff out if you don't know what it is.
On the Auris, I would've recommended to replace that calliper to the customer since you noted that damage.
2:10 - Imo 'copper grease' isn't ideal for metal / metal contact points. Copper will increase galvanisation corrosion on metal parts and the copper will destroy rubber seals. E.g. For caliper slide pins and the pads themselves, I'd use a silicon grease.
Excellent work. Well done. Thanks for sharing.
Seen that on a South Main - rust you can't see and made worse by rubber sleeve. A common GM problem.. Probably best to change other side too
100% agree with you. Copper grease is not the best to use as the grease can evaporate away leaving only copper.
Copper is electrically conductive and corrodes and turns green. Finally, copper grease does more harm than good.
Now today we have much better things we can use!
(Ceramic paste).
Do not use copper grease on screws and other things. Use
(Ceramic paste)
I never in all my years knew about the nipple. Explains why the caliper was sticking in my R56 Mini. Thanks for that!
What it’s all about mate, getting involved! Thank you for watching the video 😁
I usually just grind the nipple off the inborn pad, sometimes allows you to get better tolerances between piston and caliper.
Hmmm… it’s there for a reason mate. It stops the piston from turning whenever you pull on the handbrake
@@themarvelousvlog Been doing this for decades now, never had any issues. Sometimes you have to take it off if you have the caliper piston with only the two slots and the half turn one way or the other is not just right. Some car models have famously poor handbrakes and you need adjustment to be perfect.
Its the way the brake pad tool turns the piston back into caliper
Got ya! I will finally sleep in peace knowing this hahaha’ Thank you!
If you are turning the nut the same way as the lever, you are correct. If it is going opposite it os wrong
You can flush brakes with no fancey tools if no air in the hydraulic system,
but if the air is already in the system it's a completely different job as is this one
This is a misconception. Unfortunately with the ABS systems, there are solenoids in the motor which opens and closes- these solenoids can only be actuated electronically.
Inside those solenoids are brake fluid, and 99% of the time, they never open unless the abs/traction control kicks in (very very hard braking/skidding. If you don’t actuate the solenoids when bleeding/flushig and they’ve never opened, it’s likely that the brake fluid will turn in to gum, causing your ABS to fail and not work properly when needed.
Keep this in mind for your own safety. Hopefully this helps 🙏🏾
@@themarvelousvlog I do see what your saying but in 20 years of being a mechanic only ever seen 2 vauxhall corsa with blocked abs pump which had never had fluid changes as long as you change the fluid it is very very rare your abs will fail due to that
It's a left handed and right handed wind back, I thought the same thing when using my first set 😃
Mate Ive been hell confused until now 😂
Absolutely love your videos guys. Excellent mechanics and so so funny 🤣
Thanks so much!
Awesome video!
Is there a cheaper launch diagnostics tool that will perform these functions for DIY/home mechanics?
Yes there is! CRP129 Evo
Please only buy from Launch UK. If you buy from anywhere else, the functionality will be limited
Link:
www.launchtech.co.uk/enthusiast-diagnostics/launch-crp129-evo-c-reader-professional/
Do you have any advice or thoughts on best diagnostic tool for DIY mechanic with ABS cycle/bleed function please?
Great video again guys. Can I ask what make are the orange gloves you use ?
phd from Euro Car parts. Absolutely bullet proof they are. The pair I wore that ripped in the first job is from 3 jobs ago 😂
Always ask for the thick orange phd gloves as they also sell thin orange gloves 😂
@@themarvelousvlog Thanks !!
Hi. I find alloy grease works well on. Brakes I've used it for years
Great tip!
Thanks learned something new today
Glad to hear it!
I think I have the same wind-back kit as you, and mine also always feels backwards when I use the corresponding LH/RH and I end up swapping them
I'm pleased that you replaced the brake hose on the other side - if one has failed, there's a good chance the other could as well. I've never seen fail like that, it's always been due to dry cracking through age or bulging.
Through stupidity we managed to empty all the brake fluid out of a Jag F Type on a test track (nothing damaged except for the flower bed outside track control). Turns out that you can’t get 10 brake stops out of the reservoir with a failed brake circuit.
Took us forever to bleed the brakes and JLR had to come out with a diagnostic unit to run the ABS modulator (pump) for exactly the reasons you mentioned.
People, including myself before I met the right people, tend to overlook these things that new cars have. It’s just right to advance with the technology and follow the correct sequence provided by the manufacturers
Thank you for watching the video!
Keep up the good work enjoy your videos
Thank you!
Pride month is almost over
Amazing Work! Fantastic channel! What books, resourses, websites, training or courses do you do to have earned all this knowledge? Subscribed!
Great information on the nipple and the notch! iv'e learned something new, thanks.
We always try to help! Thank you for watching the video 😁
Didn't know about the nipple on the brake pad lining up with the notch on the caliper piston... you learn something new every day 😀 The one thing I do that you don't is add a smear of ceratec brake grease to the back side of the pads to help alleviate brake squeal/squeek 👍🏼
Wouldn't using a torque wrench on the caliper carrier bolts be best practise?
Indeed it is! I did use a toque wrench?
4:31 can you put red rubber grease on that rubber on the piston to help it slide better and maintain it ?
Fantastic work Guys!! ❤The Channel "Thanks"
Thank you too!
I'm trying to work out what all those red hoses are for!
Extra 2000bhp those red hoses 🤪
Why do we need tools to compress the pistons. Progress!!!! Serviced cars all my life and my daughter has an Astra with rear discs that have threaded pistons. So a new tool to buy. I ve heard the copper grease argument before however at 66 I have been using it all my life except on the sliders. I am not to liberal with it and perhaps been lucky. Great vlog
Thank you! A lot of workshops and dealers have said bye bye to copper grease a long time ago due to its negative implications, that being said, I still use it on certain suspension components that is not exposed to high heat and dirt
No tool required as calipers can be wound back with a pair of pliers or grips and a lever bar or big flat head screwdriver. But needs to be done slowly as u run the risk of tearing the seal
Keep the good work up bud
I wonder if the previous owner of my car used something silly on the breaks. had to replace the same abs sensor twice since I got it. both times the sensors were corroded.... well covered in rust residue anyway.
great video guys so professional great work a bit scary what some owners do to their cars
Thank you mate! I totally agree with the second comment. Very scary really 😅
Can you use silicone grease for slider pin?
If the brake fluid was contaminated you could have also have bleed the slave cylinder just in case there was any contamination in the clutch line but great video keep it up enjoy watching them 👍
That’s very true. I will be dropping the customer a message. Thank you for highlighting this.
Completely forgot about it, I can’t lie! 🤦🏽♂️
@@themarvelousvlogI only remember because it’s a Skoda requirement when doing brake fluid changes, if it’s separate reservoir it might not matter as much 😅
Nah you’re perfectly right mate. I should’ve done that too… they share the same reservoir 😂
You're right The CSC can suck up clutch debris and turn the fluid into grease I've made quite a mess with this sometimes,
I've owned my mito for 11 years and that exact problem happened to me on a hill ..(mito has auto brake hold) i replaced both of the front flexis ..really common problem ..allso common on fiat 500s mate
I totally agree mate!
it's left hand twist I have a brake piston caliper rewind tool set which has both left and right twist cause some have to be rotated left and some to the right
Got ya!
Ratchet spanner on the bleed nipple😂. We've all done it. Great content. Great videos. Keep up the good work.👌
Ah mate! It’s stupid 😂
Thank you pal! 😁
good work...consider getting proper line wrenches, regular combo wrenches will round those soft brake fittings when you come across any with resistance.
Great video!!!
Glad you liked it!
been watching your videos for ages and only just realised i think we worked together at car planet briefly, i may be confused but either way keep up the great content
You did with my brother, yes 😂
14:00 where can i get that piston wind back tool coz the LH RH confuses the shit out of me on my one too lol
When you just drive the car and not do any work or inspection on it then this is what you get.
whenever i do brakes on cars i use apec brake grease which is far better than copper grease
I was always taught that grease on moving parts exposed to a dirty environment quickly becomes a cutting compound if not regularly cleaned away and re-lubricated which is why when fitting pads I always clean thoroughly, new fitting kits where needed and dry fit pads and have had no issues in the last 26 years of maintenance on my vehicles (owned over 42 vehicles), my friends cars and my family's cars, also at the factory where the cars are built there is not one bit of grease used anywhere on the calipers or pads apart from the parts which are enclosed with a rubber boot (did jaguar factory tour).
There is literally no reason for the pads to require any grease on the ends as they are coated and the fitting plates are stainless steel which takes a long time to corrode and 9 times out of 10 when the car goes to one of the hand car washes (scratch and swirl merchants) the TFR they spray on the wheels and often the calipers on open style wheels will remove any grease you have put there especially under the high pressure of the lances.
I had a Vauxhall Astra 2 years ago where the previous owners mechanic had spread copper grease on the back of the pads like he had shares in it, 2 weekends of me washing my car and when I came to change the pads there was not one bit of grease anywhere on the surface of the calipers or pads, just a copper stain where the copper had compressed between the piston and pad.
In my opinion it is a waste of time and money and just another chemical being let loose on the environment that serves no real purpose. The reason these lubricants have been made is to capitalise on the bad mechanics that don't clean thoroughly.
There is a lot of bad information being put out there and a lot comes from representatives in the industry who just want to sell you products and there is also a complete lack of understanding on mechanical and engineering principles especially when it comes to greases and lubricants and their application in the mechanical industry and those teaching at college.
It's like the mechanics that put copper grease on wheel bolts and then torque them up to spec, when in actual fact the presence of copper grease actually increases the distance that the bolt will now turn literally increasing the mechanical load on the bolts, sometimes causing threads to stretch and over time they could fail, at minimum threads strip or bolts snap and cause someone a headache to remove and at worst causing an accident and injury/death.
This isn't a slight on you my friend, when I watch I don't find myself shouting at the screen because of what you do, I find you are methodical and very skilled and enjoy watching and you are teaching this old boy some new tricks too so keep up the good work, just never stop questioning and learning your craft and expand that knowledge on to engineering principles it will help in the long run and it may go against what the trade trys to push but maybe you can educate the young aspiring mechanics to do better rather than being fitters that a lot are.
Oh and if you ever get issues with bad calipers give big red a shout as they do some amazing caliper rebuild kits for very low prices and quick delivery, the savings which you could pass on to your clients by rebuilding their calipers instead of just buying new/refurbished units for overinflated prices.
There is a massive debate about greasing the ends of the pads online. I’ve spoken to many mechanics from dealers and they’ve all said different things.
According to TSBs that I’ve read from VW, for example, VAG vehicles that don’t use any shims, it states that you MUST grease them using high temp lithium/ceramic grease.
Regarding to the ones with shims, I’m not entirely sure. I just follow what the manufacturer state in the box. If it says grease, I grease them up
But yeah bud, very true that some people are still stuck in the 80s-90s unfortunately but hey ho. We keep advancing 💪🏽
Left hand or right hand thread of tool, I always find that n/s winds to rear of car, as o/s wind to rear, same as those bloody stainless anti rattle clips are a nightmare 😂
Interesting bit on the ABS pump bleeding the brakes. Was going to do mine by just taking 250/200ml per corner out. Do have a topdon artidiag 600s which says its up to the job.
I’d say keep going until the colour of the brake fluid changes. There is a cheaper alternative to that 600s called Foxwell GT60 😁
Maximum respect for your efforts a true professional 🎉
Thank you!
i subscribed thanks from Utah USA
Thank you Barry!
@@themarvelousvlog welcome
please give an update on your ventures as been a while , hope all is well , even just a popup if these a problem , truly miss y posts
When I do brakes and push the piston in always loosen the nipple pipe on bleed nipple wind in the piston flush the old crap out refill pot with fluid
In all fairness if you don’t know or tell why the calliper wind back tool has l and r on it should you be doing this job????
if one side failed would it be best to replace both sides on brake hose
I believe I mentioned that we replaced both
sorry you did
I didn’t watch the vid, I just landed @5:40 where you should have removed the pin, then removed the boot. That way you aren’t having to wait for a replacement.
?
@@themarvelousvlogI read the title about Chrisfix wrong then I clicked in and saw the butchering. Nobody’s perfect, if you’re calling someone out expect the same back, JS
I didn’t state that it’s wrong. It’s got question mark at the end of it. If you did watch the video, I also stated that there is NOTHING WRONG with his method- it just doesn’t apply to newer cars.
Don’t get me wrong, I love Chris fix. His videos are very informative!
Thank you for your input though mate! 🫡
@@themarvelousvlogI watched a bit more, I promise I’ll watch the rest later. One more thing I noticed, appeared to be far too much effort winding that first caliper piston back in. Did I see that wrong?
The initial push yes but the rest of the way, no. I think it was just me 😂
Just turn the caliper tool until it moves. Add lots of swearing to which helps 😅
You should have checked the complete braking system,replacement of the pipe will put more pressure on the rest of the system, considering the condition of that pipe ,what is the rest of the system?
Was that second job in Dagenham
No 😅
Pretty sure its right hand/left hand threaded (twist), or at least that's how I've always thought of it.
subscribed enjoying your channel
hope you opened the reservoir cap before winding the pistons back. ;]
I did thank you 😁
Calipers that wind in (usually incorporating a handbrake) can be threaded right (clockwise) or left (anticlockwise) depending on manufacturer. The calipers will wind the same way on the same car though, not a left a right winder bud 👍 also brake "slider" you mention is called a shim 👌
Also re copper grease - is is designed as an anti seize compound (clay based) not a lubricating grease. At high temperatures (such as found near brakes) the clay can actually harden and cause sliding components to seize / stick. Pure silicone / red rubber / ceratec on sliding brake parts 👌
Keep up the good work bro 😉
Love it bro! Thank you for the comment 💪🏽
The best way to get noise and dirt into the sliding pins is to put grease on them never put grease on the sliding pins just clean them up with emery cloth grease attracts dirt
Interesting 🤔
Chris is how we pronounce “crisps” in Scotland. So it’s golden wonder why anyone would listen to Chris!
😄
😂
He’s well good that ChrisFix
ChrisFix is like the God of DIY’ers
Big up from Scotland
@33:16 I had green brake fluid in a 2001 MB C320 once , found out later it was supposed to have that color as it was some special hydraulic oil instead of regular brake fluid.
So don't go blind on the color, as long as it's not coffee or cola colored that is
If you’re talking. About CHF, yes it is green. Brake fluid (dot 3, 4 and 5) are all golden in colour, not green. Green is not normal for brake fluid
I believe using grease on the pad shims is a bad idea as it will attract dust, and then the pads will not slide easily after time. leave them dry.
21:31, are you sure the owner said spongy brakes or no braking at all. Did the Hulk tighten those lugs?
It was still braking (surprisingly) but it was at the very very very bottom of the stroke
Unfortunately wheel bolt is worst than nut
Its probably just the camera angle but it looked like the pads where too small on the disc surface leaving a big area of disc no being used 12:59
There is always a small area that will never touched by the pads hence why brake discs always get the ‘lip’
I would NEVER use second hand brake parts as it's your life and your passengers life that could be in danger
Get an Eezibleed Kit ,, swear down makes life so much easier ,, I bleed braked for fun now . lol
It's for left hand thread and right hand thread.
I watched your video just because I saw the title SHOCKING TRUTH ABOUT CHRISFIX. First of all, you have to change the video title no offense, and second of all the method is still working I am doing the same thing almost every day. Even the 2024 cars. But if you just want to change the brake fluid and if there is some air although I suggest that you use professional devices if can afford it. But if replaced, or repaired, or changed the brake lines or ABS module or brake master cylinder you should definitely use a diagnostic tool that is equipped with a brake bleeding system. Otherwise, your video is very good and helpful for people who don't know how to do that. 😊
Don't you use copper grease on the back of the pads to prevent brake squeal 🤔
I've used copper grease on cars with ABS from new up to 370,000 miles and have never experienced any of the potential problems you mention, I also use it on the back of alloy wheels as it prevents electrolytic corrosion causing the alloys to seize on the hubs.
Red rubber grease should not be used on caliper sliders.
Silicon grease is the correct grease
I think they’re okay around the sliding pins but Hydratec is definitely the right product for it. Silicon also works
@themarvelousvlog do you mean ceramic marv?
Cos if you do, ceramic is for pad contact points, and silicone 100% for sliders
Great vid - I never knew about aligning the nipples on the pads.
1. If it is very difficult to wind the piston back in then replace the caliper.
2. That damaged rear caliper should be replaced - I can't believe that you refitted it.
Re 2.:
That is to be rectified next week. Unfortunately I can only get instructed by the owner. We can only give advise at the end of the day
Air intake under the bonnet on the Alpha 😅. Engines love dirty warm air.
I vac bleed brakes and start close to master cylinder so all rubbish does not go through all the lines. Works well for me. Never any problems
I’d recommend pumping the motor mate. That solenoid is probably sticky if its never been activated before
@@themarvelousvlog snap on tool activates the abs. And I like doing front first as I said. Your reason for back first ?
Look into getting some flared nut spanners for the brake lines, it's not worth rounding them off with normal spanners 🤢 ask how I know
How much do these types of jobs cost?
We charge £220 for a full system bleed
29:00, or just bleed the car (with ABS) with the engine running with the whole car up on 4x jack stands with your brother pumping the brakes.
Hmmmmm… so you’re telling me the solenoids in the ABS open and closes with this method?
Would love to know why you think this works…
Try that on a EV 😂
@@themarvelousvlog just like Chrisfix, i bled brake fluid from 80s car with engine off and was able to pump the brakes with another person in the car while I close/open the bleeder. On cars with abs, with engine off, if the brake pedal is pumped more than a few times, the brake pedal would get stiffer and stiffer to the point cannot pump anymore. That is because the solenoids are closed. With engine running, the wheel speed sensor and brake sensors are active and thinks the wheel is frozen then the abs module will modulate the solenoids and then you are able to pump the pedal
@@owensautotips not saying it will work on all cars especially EVs. Some i had success on doing this process. i did on my sister’s nissan leaf. I just pressed the on button while whole car was on 4x jack stands and then let the hub turn with the wheels off
@@bennyang8049 I think you should start reading manufacturers procedures before it goes horribly wrong. No hate at you just need to do it properly otherwise it will bite you bad
Threaded
I wouldn't let you coomers or chris work on my car :p
The Wheel Bolt is horrible to break loose, they love seize up! I had worked few Vauxhalls it’s had wheel bolt like Alfa had, and they always seize up. No wonder why few them cars had wheel nut instead of bolt.
as you can see
Properly???? Where is the lube on calliper/pad mount points?????
Hi beam i the game for 50 years + never had eney greff 😂😂
LH may mean left handed thread, and vice versa :?
I believe so! Depends on where the thread goes according to everyone in the comment section 😁
@@themarvelousvlog Should be LHT and RHT to stand for thread, but no idea :') Cars are 99% electronics now anyway :')
i will get some
Do try it! You won’t regret it
Are those 4 pot brakes on that little Alfa?
Indeed!
Less of the click bate vid titled dude. You’re better than that
halfords breaker bar arnt long enough