My printer was printing very well with my BLTouch and yellow springs but the EzABL Pro and solid spacers made it so consistent that I can print completely remote and have great results every time. Well worth the money to not worry about spring movement or a pin malfunction. Thanks again Tim and team for all your hard work and helping to make this industry better 😎 🇺🇸
This has been my experience as well, and I'm replacing all the BLTouches I have with EZABLs. Night and day difference in speed, accuracy, and reliability.
I use an SD card to set the 2mm sensor height - an SD Card is 2mm thick. Great product!! I have installed and used over half a dozen with more to install. Very consistent and reliable.
Another successful installation! Tim, your tutorials for your EZ products, VSCode, and all of your efforts on the unified 2 firmware make these installations soooo much easier. I was really dreading the new VSCode interface (and of the time I'd have to spend wrestling, googling, searching forums, and learning) but you made it the easiest part!
Very nice addition to your video guides. The EZABL sensor is a pretty simple install with the printed directions but this would definitely help if you haven't installed an ABL sensor before. I recently bought a CR-10 S4 and decided to go all in on TH3D. I got the EZABL Pro, the OEM sensor mount, solid bed mounts, a Meanwell PS, and the PTFE upgrade pack. They were all easy to install and work great. The Unified 2 firmware for the CR-10 S4 was easy to configure and install and I had everything up and printing beautifully in a day. Thanks for all the support you provide to the 3d printing community.
Thanks for the feedback Dale! Glad to hear the printer is all working well after our upgrades! I hope you enjoy the convenience of the EZABL. Have a great day man!
The EZABL Pro is the first thing I bought for my first 3D printer because of Edge of Tech's video. Thinking I might have chosen wrong because I was a noob and the BLTouch is so popular, I bought a BLTouch for my second and third printers. After several months the EZABL was the best choice for me, as I've had nothing but trouble from both my BLTouches. I'm in the process of replacing them both with EZABLs, and fitting my new Ender 6 with one too. The EZABL is 50% more than an BLTouch, but it's 1000% more reliable, fast, and accurate for me. My only complaint is the white power wire for hardwired installation. 😅
What an outstanding video! I pulled my cr10s-5 out of 8mo storage and upgraded the bed heater. Somehow I messed up the sensor and the position of the mount. This video was a huge help to getting my prints back on track! Thank you!
AWESOME video! I just got an EZAble Pro for my Ender 5 Plus to replace the BLTouch, so I am hoping this installation goes as smooth for me. I am also very probably going to install the solid bed mount kit because I *hate* dealing with manual bed leveling and the springs - it has always been a problem for me to get this right. It looks like TH3D products are going to make my 3D printing life much more enjoyable!
@@TH3DStudio pulled the trigger because my ender 3 max has been unleveling every other print idk why but no mas! Also no problem, I love the work and support you guys put into your products. I bought the solid mounts as soon as they were back in stock a while back for this install. Hyped.
We are working on the Chiron. It's going to need a LCD replacement to work with the EZABL. But we're working on all the hardware to convert it as well as the firmware. We're hoping to have it all completed in about 2-3 weeks at most.
We have firmware out and a mount for the EZABL for the Aquila already :) If you need help picking parts for it drop us a line here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I was emailing with a gentleman named Peter. When I get to the 23:48 mark in this video, my Z is showing OPEN when it should be showing TRIGGERED, the red LED is light on for both the probe and in the control box. I moved the set screw to shut the red LEDs off, and it still reads open. I flipped the switch in the EZABL control box, and nothing changes. He had me return my EZABL Pro, along with the control box. He sent it back to me, along with an email saying everything was working normally. I put it back into my E5+, and I'm right back to where I was before. There have been some delays in my communications, because I am having some very serious legal issues, and did not have time to mess with my printer. The way things are looking for me with this printer, is it seems like it has bricked on me. I'm at a complete loss here.
If the sensor is reporting wrong then that would be a firmware configuration issue. If you don't update the firmware and tell it you have the EZABL it will not report back to the board correctly.
@@TH3DStudio I used your EZfirmware builder, so I would think everything is OK with my firmware. And when answering the questions, I did tell it I have an EZABL.
Anyone know why my endstop status is always "TRIGGERED"? Even when the led is green? If I flip the z switch then I get the incorrect "open" when the led is red and "triggered" when the led is green.
That is part of the M119 verification. Please read the manual: support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/ezabl-pro-installation-guide/ If you are still stuck after reading the manual please contact our support if you are a customer here: contactus.th3dstudio.com
Great video! I have a question about the optional power supply for the board. If I go that route, is it ok to just leave it plugged in permanently or do I need to unplug that when the printer is not in use because it's not tied to the printer's power? Just curious how the board handles that. Thanks!
When you started the section on setting initial z-offset, you instruct us to Auto Home and when you execute, the head moves to the center of the bed. My Auto Home moves to the front left corner as I would expect. What am I missing there?
If it is moving to the front left it is likely a configuration issue. You can contact our support to help troubleshoot your setup: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
Is this an inductive or capacitive sensor? Is there any performance difference between the 3 sizes of probes? Can I use the small (8mm) one with my Ender-3? I assume that the power input to the box on the screw terminals can handle 24vdc, but is the input jack for a lower voltage? The Ender V4.2.x control board has a connector for a BLtouch. Can this be used for the output of the probe instead of the ZMIN connector (with software changes to Marlin)? This would allow BOTH the ZMIN switch and the probe to be used. The probe triggers BEFORE the nozzle hits the bed, while the ZMIN switch hits WHEN the nozzle bottoms out (if everything is adjusted correctly!). Thus the ZMIN switch becomes a failsafe to protect the bed and the hot end, while the probe performs the auto bed tramming. Support page doesn't seem to have any .STL for the mounting bracket on an Ender -3 or Ender-3 PRO.
This is a high performance capacitive type that we had made for 3D printer application. The performance of all the sizes is the same. You can use a dual setup with the endstop switch and the probe but our support would not cover setting that up since it is not our recommended setup but all our source code for the firmware is available so you can modify it as you see fit for your machine setup. Nozzle crashes are a possibility but they are very rare with our sensors as their failure rate is very low.
This doesn't make sense. After setting the sensor height, you tell us to raise Z by 2mm. So, if the sensor is supposed to be 2mm higher than the tip of the nozzle, and we raise Z by 2mm in this step, somehow the sensor is supposed to go off when it's 4mm above the bed?
@@TH3DStudio I don't know why I didn't know that. My printer has been out of commission for months. Thanks to that video, it's running merrily along now. Thanks for the quick reply!
Given the limited information you provided I can't give you an accurate cause of the issue but if you are a customer, we do have technical support available. Just contact one of our techs here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I've never resolved my ezabl. My printer is structurally calibrated, followed the instructions for installing ezabl. When I home it, the sensor is in the middle of the bed, but then when I do bed level it probes 10mm to the right. I have ezboard 1.2 as well.
Sounds like your probe offsets are not set correctly. You can reach out to our support here and they can help you troubleshoot: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I really need help with this. I’m trying to do this with a Mac and I have a new ender 3 pro. I do not have a checkmark to be able to check after I uncomment the board in the probe mount to do the build. I don’t know what’s wrong and I don’t know what to do. I am not a coder. What I am is frustrated. I do have a gear that says build in the triangle like a play button. Neither one of them does anything. I’m just getting errors. Can someone please contact me?
I flashed the firmware but when I go to auto level my nozzle wont stop. The light on the sensor is green going down but when it turns red but doesn't stop. When I switched the wires the light never lit up red or green and still did not stop.
If you're following the installation guide you will see a section that tells you to check the sensor signal with the M119 command. It sounds like you skipped this step.
I am not sure what is going on with my ender 3 v2 but everytime I go to fine tune it while printing it brings the damn nozzle crashing down into the bed
Sorry to hear that! It's probably a mis-calibration of the sensor. Check the calibration section of the video again and if you still need assistance with setting up your EZABL you can contact our support team here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
How do I save the firmware to a micro SD card for my printer? You only covered with the USB method and I checked the firmware download page and didn't see instructions there either
You put it in the computer and copy the firmware bin file to it. Then power the print off, put in the SD card, and then turn it on to flash it. The directions are on the firmware page.
@@TH3DStudio I can't find the .bin file. Now I am trying to repeat the whole process and it's adding a bunch of repeated lines and not letting me start a new project in visual studio.
@@TH3DStudio how do I start all over in visual studio? It's building onto the same project each time and not starting over for me fresh. It no longer even gives me a check mark
@@TH3DStudio I think I finally figured it out. Haven't put the card in the printer yet but the. Bin file is there. Do I reset the eeprom on the ender 3 pro?
When you have a major mod like the xtender installed you have to set the option for that upgrade. You can always try to flash as a normal ender 3 and make sure it works correctly in the 235x235 build area and then go from there. While the xtender is not our product we do have options in our firmware for it if you look in the config file.
My Ender 6 Extruder is moving around the back right quarter of the bad as if it was the entire bed. I've checked the bed size in the firmware and slicer and they're both correct. Could it be something with the EZabl Pro or something else causing this?
Fellow printers told me to pick this thing up for my CR-10S5. After I received it I downloaded the STL pack and noticing there's nothing available for my printer. So I guess this sensor isn't going to work in the long run for my printer.
Hi, I have just installed the EZABL on my ender 3 Pro. updated firmware ok. Calibrated sensor ok. Did G28 and G29 from Pronterface ok. Can Auto Home from the LCD ok. But the LCD does not show the option for "Level Bed" (i.e. G29) but it does have an option for "Level Corners" instead, why is this and how can i fix this?
@@TH3DStudio yeah I figured that but you told me it's all in the stl. To perfect the z offset you should use something with a large base. So you should include a large square for perfecting the z offset. Like 200×200 or something. The bed level ones don't work as their is too much whitespace.
@@TH3DStudio I got it to work finally, no clue what I did that finally fixed it, I removed and reinstalled VSCode, downloaded the firmware again. Recompiled it and uploaded it and it just went thorough. Now my EZABL pro is working great. Thanks for the in depth tutorial, you guys are awesome
I'm want to buy and use this on anycubic i3 mega (note zero not x not s the original one) is that possible to make a firmware upload to the site or you guys just have for the chiron? please let me know. I'm not that good with the firmware thing... and I really want make my life easier with my bed leveling...
Yes it will, but it is recommended to also upgrade the LCD: support.th3dstudio.com/hc/guides/upgrades-printer-information/ender-3-v2-swapping-to-the-12864-creality-lcd-for-more-features/
@@TH3DStudio thank you for your reply The installation of the firmware is extremely daunting .I personally know at least 8 guys that mechanically can build anything but software oh boy that's a problem lol
My printer was printing very well with my BLTouch and yellow springs but the EzABL Pro and solid spacers made it so consistent that I can print completely remote and have great results every time. Well worth the money to not worry about spring movement or a pin malfunction. Thanks again Tim and team for all your hard work and helping to make this industry better 😎 🇺🇸
This has been my experience as well, and I'm replacing all the BLTouches I have with EZABLs. Night and day difference in speed, accuracy, and reliability.
I use an SD card to set the 2mm sensor height - an SD Card is 2mm thick. Great product!! I have installed and used over half a dozen with more to install. Very consistent and reliable.
Thanks for the info! never thought about the SD card!
I got the kit about 6 months ago finally getting to install it today wish me luck
This is one of the best tutorials I have ever seen.
Another successful installation! Tim, your tutorials for your EZ products, VSCode, and all of your efforts on the unified 2 firmware make these installations soooo much easier. I was really dreading the new VSCode interface (and of the time I'd have to spend wrestling, googling, searching forums, and learning) but you made it the easiest part!
Great video rite up to the firmware install .totally incapable of this Guess I'll just manually level
Very nice addition to your video guides. The EZABL sensor is a pretty simple install with the printed directions but this would definitely help if you haven't installed an ABL sensor before. I recently bought a CR-10 S4 and decided to go all in on TH3D. I got the EZABL Pro, the OEM sensor mount, solid bed mounts, a Meanwell PS, and the PTFE upgrade pack. They were all easy to install and work great. The Unified 2 firmware for the CR-10 S4 was easy to configure and install and I had everything up and printing beautifully in a day. Thanks for all the support you provide to the 3d printing community.
Thanks for the feedback Dale! Glad to hear the printer is all working well after our upgrades! I hope you enjoy the convenience of the EZABL. Have a great day man!
The EZABL Pro is the first thing I bought for my first 3D printer because of Edge of Tech's video. Thinking I might have chosen wrong because I was a noob and the BLTouch is so popular, I bought a BLTouch for my second and third printers. After several months the EZABL was the best choice for me, as I've had nothing but trouble from both my BLTouches. I'm in the process of replacing them both with EZABLs, and fitting my new Ender 6 with one too. The EZABL is 50% more than an BLTouch, but it's 1000% more reliable, fast, and accurate for me. My only complaint is the white power wire for hardwired installation. 😅
What an outstanding video! I pulled my cr10s-5 out of 8mo storage and upgraded the bed heater. Somehow I messed up the sensor and the position of the mount. This video was a huge help to getting my prints back on track! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
AWESOME video! I just got an EZAble Pro for my Ender 5 Plus to replace the BLTouch, so I am hoping this installation goes as smooth for me. I am also very probably going to install the solid bed mount kit because I *hate* dealing with manual bed leveling and the springs - it has always been a problem for me to get this right. It looks like TH3D products are going to make my 3D printing life much more enjoyable!
How convenient! My EzABL just arrived today!
Thats great of you guys working on the Chiron, I'll be first in line ..Thanks
Excellent guide Tim! Appreciate you taking the time to make such a detailed video guide.
Glad it was helpful!
This was the most helpful RUclips video I have ever seen!
Try turning your cutters around so the flat edge is in the direction you are pulling. You will find it strips 100 times easier :)
Gonna have to try that live z offset. Thanks for the detailed video
No problem 👍
My EZABL just shipped hell yeah.
Thanks for the support!
@@TH3DStudio pulled the trigger because my ender 3 max has been unleveling every other print idk why but no mas! Also no problem, I love the work and support you guys put into your products. I bought the solid mounts as soon as they were back in stock a while back for this install. Hyped.
Should I install the solid bed mounts before doing the z offset
You should install them before the Zoffset if you have them.
Great Job Tim
Great video, just what I have been waiting for my Anycubic Chiron
We are working on the Chiron. It's going to need a LCD replacement to work with the EZABL. But we're working on all the hardware to convert it as well as the firmware. We're hoping to have it all completed in about 2-3 weeks at most.
A ton of people are using a voxelab Aquila, you should come out with one of those so I can buy one
We have firmware out and a mount for the EZABL for the Aquila already :) If you need help picking parts for it drop us a line here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I was emailing with a gentleman named Peter. When I get to the 23:48 mark in this video, my Z is showing OPEN when it should be showing TRIGGERED, the red LED is light on for both the probe and in the control box. I moved the set screw to shut the red LEDs off, and it still reads open. I flipped the switch in the EZABL control box, and nothing changes. He had me return my EZABL Pro, along with the control box. He sent it back to me, along with an email saying everything was working normally. I put it back into my E5+, and I'm right back to where I was before. There have been some delays in my communications, because I am having some very serious legal issues, and did not have time to mess with my printer. The way things are looking for me with this printer, is it seems like it has bricked on me. I'm at a complete loss here.
If the sensor is reporting wrong then that would be a firmware configuration issue. If you don't update the firmware and tell it you have the EZABL it will not report back to the board correctly.
@@TH3DStudio I used your EZfirmware builder, so I would think everything is OK with my firmware. And when answering the questions, I did tell it I have an EZABL.
Anyone know why my endstop status is always "TRIGGERED"? Even when the led is green? If I flip the z switch then I get the incorrect "open" when the led is red and "triggered" when the led is green.
Did you disconnect the endstop cable from your Z endstop and connect it to the EZABL kit?
@@TH3DStudio I get this same thing. one spot on the switch gives me always open and the other way is always triggered
Wow!!! About time!!!
7:24 Did not add a safety warning before opening the power supply. "MAKE SURE POWER SUPPLY IS UNPLUGED BEFORE OPENING"
Good instructions, but my wrench was 1.7mm I was lucky my old bltouch bracket was 2mm on the dot
1.7mm is fine too. It just has to be close.
great video very detailed and informative thank you
Glad it was helpful!
"we're gonna go ahead and..." x10000. Very helpful and appreciated otherwise.
Great tutorial, but my probe wont make the bed stop, and I have to shut off the printer. There's no instruction on fixing that.
That is part of the M119 verification. Please read the manual: support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/ezabl-pro-installation-guide/
If you are still stuck after reading the manual please contact our support if you are a customer here: contactus.th3dstudio.com
Great video! I have a question about the optional power supply for the board. If I go that route, is it ok to just leave it plugged in permanently or do I need to unplug that when the printer is not in use because it's not tied to the printer's power? Just curious how the board handles that. Thanks!
You can leave it plugged in all the time, it will be fine. It doesn't take much power at all.
@@TH3DStudio awesome thanks!
Thank you very much for this video
When you started the section on setting initial z-offset, you instruct us to Auto Home and when you execute, the head moves to the center of the bed. My Auto Home moves to the front left corner as I would expect. What am I missing there?
If it is moving to the front left it is likely a configuration issue. You can contact our support to help troubleshoot your setup: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
❤
My EZABL was the best investment I made on my Ender3.
Is this an inductive or capacitive sensor? Is there any performance difference between the 3 sizes of probes? Can I use the small (8mm) one with my Ender-3?
I assume that the power input to the box on the screw terminals can handle 24vdc, but is the input jack for a lower voltage?
The Ender V4.2.x control board has a connector for a BLtouch. Can this be used for the output of the probe instead of the ZMIN connector (with software changes to Marlin)? This would allow BOTH the ZMIN switch and the probe to be used. The probe triggers BEFORE the nozzle hits the bed, while the ZMIN switch hits WHEN the nozzle bottoms out (if everything is adjusted correctly!). Thus the ZMIN switch becomes a failsafe to protect the bed and the hot end, while the probe performs the auto bed tramming.
Support page doesn't seem to have any .STL for the mounting bracket on an Ender -3 or Ender-3 PRO.
This is a high performance capacitive type that we had made for 3D printer application. The performance of all the sizes is the same.
You can use a dual setup with the endstop switch and the probe but our support would not cover setting that up since it is not our recommended setup but all our source code for the firmware is available so you can modify it as you see fit for your machine setup. Nozzle crashes are a possibility but they are very rare with our sensors as their failure rate is very low.
Dude I didn't know Seth Rogen was into 3D printing and on RUclips. Just kidding a good video
having a little bit of an issue as I don't have my pc hooked up to my printer, and the video doesn't explain adding the firmware to a sd for install
I'm not sure what machine you are installing it on but you should review our Unified 2 Firmware video here: ruclips.net/video/xDc9FpenGUE/видео.html
Is the CR-10 V3 a good printer? I'm thinking this might be my next machine.
ITs a decent machine. Somewhat limited though for board replacements since its got its own board version vs other CR-10 machiens.
I don't have the little checkbox in the bottom left corner of VS Code, is there a certain shortcut that I can press instead?
See if this covers the issue you have: www.th3dstudio.com/2021/02/11/unified-2-vscode-tips-for-noobs-eztip-8/
This doesn't make sense. After setting the sensor height, you tell us to raise Z by 2mm. So, if the sensor is supposed to be 2mm higher than the tip of the nozzle, and we raise Z by 2mm in this step, somehow the sensor is supposed to go off when it's 4mm above the bed?
Correct, 4mm off the bed with the 18mm probe.
@@TH3DStudio I don't know why I didn't know that. My printer has been out of commission for months. Thanks to that video, it's running merrily along now. Thanks for the quick reply!
when I go to move the axis all i hear is a click and nothing moves. I'm using an ender 5 pro I have also uploaded the code
Given the limited information you provided I can't give you an accurate cause of the issue but if you are a customer, we do have technical support available. Just contact one of our techs here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I've never resolved my ezabl. My printer is structurally calibrated, followed the instructions for installing ezabl. When I home it, the sensor is in the middle of the bed, but then when I do bed level it probes 10mm to the right. I have ezboard 1.2 as well.
Sounds like your probe offsets are not set correctly. You can reach out to our support here and they can help you troubleshoot: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I really need help with this. I’m trying to do this with a Mac and I have a new ender 3 pro. I do not have a checkmark to be able to check after I uncomment the board in the probe mount to do the build. I don’t know what’s wrong and I don’t know what to do. I am not a coder. What I am is frustrated. I do have a gear that says build in the triangle like a play button. Neither one of them does anything. I’m just getting errors. Can someone please contact me?
Hi there Deb. It sounds like you missed a step in VSCode. You can contact our support team through our support form here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I flashed the firmware but when I go to auto level my nozzle wont stop. The light on the sensor is green going down but when it turns red but doesn't stop. When I switched the wires the light never lit up red or green and still did not stop.
If you're following the installation guide you will see a section that tells you to check the sensor signal with the M119 command. It sounds like you skipped this step.
I am not sure what is going on with my ender 3 v2 but everytime I go to fine tune it while printing it brings the damn nozzle crashing down into the bed
Sorry to hear that! It's probably a mis-calibration of the sensor. Check the calibration section of the video again and if you still need assistance with setting up your EZABL you can contact our support team here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
I can't get this firmware uploaded at all on my cr10. I followed every step.
Edit: I was missing the installer options on vs code. You should really organize all these steps for idiots like me. Thanks for your work.
There is a VSCode setup guide here: vscode.th3dstudio.com/
How do I save the firmware to a micro SD card for my printer? You only covered with the USB method and I checked the firmware download page and didn't see instructions there either
You put it in the computer and copy the firmware bin file to it. Then power the print off, put in the SD card, and then turn it on to flash it. The directions are on the firmware page.
@@TH3DStudio I can't find the .bin file. Now I am trying to repeat the whole process and it's adding a bunch of repeated lines and not letting me start a new project in visual studio.
I'm all messed up now. Wish u guys had a phone number
@@TH3DStudio how do I start all over in visual studio? It's building onto the same project each time and not starting over for me fresh. It no longer even gives me a check mark
@@TH3DStudio I think I finally figured it out. Haven't put the card in the printer yet but the. Bin file is there. Do I reset the eeprom on the ender 3 pro?
still trying to get my ender3 with extender and ezabl it want to print in front left corner getting frustrated thanks
When you have a major mod like the xtender installed you have to set the option for that upgrade. You can always try to flash as a normal ender 3 and make sure it works correctly in the 235x235 build area and then go from there. While the xtender is not our product we do have options in our firmware for it if you look in the config file.
DOES THIS WORK FOR ENDER 3, ONLY SEE ENDER 3 V2 IN FIRMWARE AND FOR MOUNTS
Yes this does. Ender 3 is on the site and in the STL packs. They are on our help center here: support.th3dstudio.com
My Ender 6 Extruder is moving around the back right quarter of the bad as if it was the entire bed. I've checked the bed size in the firmware and slicer and they're both correct. Could it be something with the EZabl Pro or something else causing this?
There's not enough information here to determine the issue but if you are a customer, you can ask our support for help here: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
@@TH3DStudio I don't know what I did, but it's working now. Thank you, tho.
Does the 2 mm wrench work for the mini version of the sensor?
Yes, because the sensor is still mounted 2mm higher than the nozzle tip. But the calibration is done with the nozzle 1mm off the bed instead of 2mm.
Fellow printers told me to pick this thing up for my CR-10S5. After I received it I downloaded the STL pack and noticing there's nothing available for my printer. So I guess this sensor isn't going to work in the long run for my printer.
The CR-10 S5 uses the same mounts as the CR-10 since they all use the same hotend carriage.
Do u have this for a ender3v2and great video
We don't but 509 Drone does: ruclips.net/video/bOb9_ImSW7c/видео.html
Does anyone know the mass of the EZABL sensors? I can't find it anywhere
18mm is about 0.9oz w/2x Included Nuts
12mm is about 0.45oz w/2x Included Nuts
Hi, I have just installed the EZABL on my ender 3 Pro. updated firmware ok. Calibrated sensor ok. Did G28 and G29 from Pronterface ok. Can Auto Home from the LCD ok. But the LCD does not show the option for "Level Bed" (i.e. G29) but it does have an option for "Level Corners" instead, why is this and how can i fix this?
Please contact our support. RUclips is not technical support. You can submit a ticket here: www.th3dstudio.com/contact-us/
do you need to make changes in firmware if youhave dual axis
If its a stock printer we already support, no you do not.
There is no slice test file in the stl pack.
You need to slice your own files. We do not provide pre-sliced files as everyone has slightly different printers they are using.
@@TH3DStudio yeah I figured that but you told me it's all in the stl. To perfect the z offset you should use something with a large base. So you should include a large square for perfecting the z offset. Like 200×200 or something. The bed level ones don't work as their is too much whitespace.
do you have one for the Elegoo Neptune 2?
Thats not a machine we have supported at this time. Most ones that come with the color LCDs are limited in what can be changed on them.
How long does it generally take to upload the hex file via USB? Mines been "uploading" for hours now.
I've been trying to get this to work for two days, im sure it's something on my end, any help is greatly appreciated..
Usually about 30 seconds. Contact our support if you are an EZABL customer: contactus.th3dstudio.com/
@@TH3DStudio I got it to work finally, no clue what I did that finally fixed it, I removed and reinstalled VSCode, downloaded the firmware again. Recompiled it and uploaded it and it just went thorough. Now my EZABL pro is working great. Thanks for the in depth tutorial, you guys are awesome
I'm want to buy and use this on anycubic i3 mega (note zero not x not s the original one) is that possible to make a firmware upload to the site or you guys just have for the chiron? please let me know. I'm not that good with the firmware thing... and I really want make my life easier with my bed leveling...
We do not have any firmware right now for the i3 mega and that one will need its LCD swapped due to the proprietary LCD they chose to use.
@@TH3DStudio thank you
will this work with an Ender 3V2 ?
Yes it will, but it is recommended to also upgrade the LCD: support.th3dstudio.com/hc/guides/upgrades-printer-information/ender-3-v2-swapping-to-the-12864-creality-lcd-for-more-features/
Still very complicated for a new person
We do include technical support as well should you need a hand installing it. :)
@@TH3DStudio thank you for your reply The installation of the firmware is extremely daunting .I personally know at least 8 guys that mechanically can build anything but software oh boy that's a problem lol
@@TH3DStudio couldnt you offer a sd card with the correct upgrade ready to go Of course for a price I'm sure you would develop another revenue stream
First :)
Dang it, that's twice you beat me to it!