0:00 EZABL kits 0:48 EZABL connections 1:51 Direct wire wiring 4:30 Sensor power check 4:42 Mounting your sensor 6:44 Sensor wire routing 7:26 Sensor check after mounting, EZABL board LED check 7:36 EZABL casing wire routing 7:55 Firmware update > Unified Firmware 8:14 Z-endstop check, gcodes, trigger check Seriously, do a trigger check, not a light check, that little light will not stop your bed getting smashed 10:39 Sensor calibration 13:08 Z-offset 15:29 Slicer setup/config 17:52 Thanks tfm\further support Reminder, this video does not replace the manual. Read the whole manual and watch the whole video before attempting anything!
WoW just finished my EZABL installation on a CR-10S 5S with Octoprint and I am thrilled. I appreciated all of the detailed instructions made available.
Purchased an Ender 3 yesterday and should be here Tuesday. As soon as I get your kit in I will be installing it to this printer. Thank you for all of your hard work!
Thank you for making the EZABL! Thank you for making it user friendly! It's worth every penny and the support you offer is top notch. I've been printing for a year now and I didn't think I could get a better first layer but I was wrong so now it's not just a convenience it's invaluable. Very impressive....
Got one for the CR-10S and Mini for Ender2. Best investment I have made yet on my printers. Now if I can just figure out how to get one set up on my CR-2020 I'll be good to go. Many many thanks Tim!
If you were to make the case so the holes line up with the CR-10S mounting holes, you could remove the stop switch altogether and mount the case in that spot. That's what I did with mine, only one hole lines up and I use a zip tie on the other end. I am considering printing a custom case to address this, but I wanted to share just in case the manufacturer might consider such a change as well. One might even consider making the base of the case with a sliding/adjustable mount. This could allow for different mounting options.
I have a suggestion as a new user, to increase consistence across multiple installs. Since we know where we would like the probe in reference to the nozzle (2mm, in your guide) You could send an alignment tool to ease the height adjustment of the EZABL and create a very consistent install method. The tool would be very simple, a small circular ring with a 2mm base, and an 18mm clearance ID (or 12, in the case of the EZABL mini) Have the lip of the ring be maybe 0.6mm - just enough to keep the probe from slipping out of place - but without interfering with clearance for the bottom nut. The instructions can then be changed to have this alignment tool installed on the end of the probe, with both nuts loose. The user would then proceed to lower the nozzle onto the bed until it makes contact, followed by tightening the nuts once the nozzle is touching. This would result in very good consistency of probe to nozzle distance, making for more reliable positive results for end users.
It's not till 4:54 that you mention that you have to print the mount for the EZABL. That might be something you want to move forward before people start installing the device and then realize they have to print a piece for it first. (This is purely from an excitement standpoint, people may just fire up the video all excited and follow along and then realize they have to go back) :-) At the very least a title card and a link to where to download the STL. I'm sure it's in the guide but some people may only watch the video. Hope that helps!
The video specifically says that it is not meant to replace the guide but go along with it. If people are not reading the documentation then that is something we have no control over.
If you can, get a JST 2-pin female pigtail and male JST connector (the same type as the endstop connectors, just less pins) and mount the pigtail in the screw terminal. Pull out the pins from the Z endstop connector and put them in the male 2-pin JST connector. No need to cut wires, and reassembling the default endstop connector will be easy.
Just an idea, maybe cover how to insert the starting Gcode for Cura as well. I have the sensor calibrated, but I don't know how to get this new starting gcode set up in cura.
M75 ; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor M84 SE ; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems G28 ; home all axes G28 Z ; home Z to get more accurate Z position G29; EZABL mesh generation G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover
I would add that octopi users prior to a ezabl install disable the Marlin eeprom plug in and use the th3d one in place of it because of the known issues with plug-in definitely it will save you a headache and hours of trying to diagnose
Thank you for the heads up! We updated the manual and pushed that out. Also sent out a message to our accounts to remind everyone to use our version. The original one is updated now but if you want to make sure you are on one that doesn't break anything use the one on our GitHub.
I wish you guys would include the offsets for each model in the comments (or at least mention them in the video) so I do not have to go hunting for the settings on your website or in the manual every time I have to re-calibrate my EZABLE. Yes, I know...this is meant to be a supplement, but this video is what many of your customers watch whenever they need to refresh their memory regarding the procedure. Often times the links on your website change. The link to this video does not. "Manually move the Z with the printer LCD or your Computer/Pi until the nozzle is on the bed, then move up 2mm for EZABL and 1mm for EZABL Mini."
GearBest is sending that machine to us next. We'll be seeing what we can do. The touch LCD is always a trouble for us since its closed source so we'll have to see if we can hack it a bit.
Just got my EZABL direct kit and solid mounts. I've got all the electrical hooked up but I'm feeling a bit uneasy about how to best set up the build plate with the solid mounts. Do you keep the now unused z stop as a physical limit to how low the x-carriage can go? The aluminium plate seems very uneven so if the nozzle rest at one point it will dig into it at another.
Great video but is there something missing when setting up the Z-offset as for some reason on my Tevo Tornado first version and using firmware U1.R2.A8 it doesn't seem to be saving the offset setting because when I start a job away and the it starts a purge my nozzle is far to high off the board and I have also added your script into S3D?
Well, if you move the Z offset when the nozzle is already down, it will continue to move down and crush on the built plate with your latest firmware!! Better to move the Z offset directly after setting Z to zero.
Correct- the printer moves while dialing in the z-offset. Auto home-> move down 5 mm, go to adjust z-offset, and do the paper routine right there. Store settings.
im missing the Babystep Z setting after I upgraded the firmware. I see Set Z Probe Offset, but it seems tied in with the other Z offset function and not independent of each other
The only one officially supported by us is the EZBoard right now. We have a page for setting up Marlin with our sensor here: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezabl-setup-for-vanilla-marlin/
UPDATE: DO NOT USE THE WASHERS INCLUDED WITH SENSOR. WHEN I REMOVED THEM, THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY. Installing my sensor now... finally... I was also finally assembling my Ender 5 watching your unbox and build and came to that video where you where installing the sensor. I have seen a few others... I noted in this one and the other that you are not using those bulky large locking washers. You are just using the two nuts. Should I remove these washers and redo the leveling? Also, with the unheated, room temp Hotbed I get .00...... numbers for the M48 test. With the bed heated up to 70 deg the numbers jump around from .1.... to now the latest 0.39.... to .48... Is this normal? I am letting it cool down now to see what happens at ambient. I am using the hard mounts as well that you provide and not the springs that came with the unit. UPDATE: back down to 29 deg and M48 reports .008....
Sounds like you may have a grounding issue on the printer that's causing interference. Check our knowledgebase for articles on grounding. There are 2 in there.
TH3D Studio, After watching a few more install videos I found that we do NOT use the included washers. We use ONLY the nuts. I was concerned about how those washers were affecting how level the sensor was as they are designed to be tightened down hard to lock the item or if it was a bolt in place. We cannot do that without breaking the mount. I removed the washers and now I’m confident the sensor is installed aligned with mount and head. The results with the bed cold or hot are now great!! I’d recommend removing those washers from kits sent or at least include a note saying not to use them. I’ve watched a few other videos on RUclips where people are using the washers... hope they figure it out.
sorry for my stupid question, does it work only with original printer board or it work also with your ez board lite (i have oredered it)? ps i have a creality cr-10s
Hey, I just wanted to reach out. I ordered this printer about a month ago and have had a few issues with it. I have got it running good and just wanted to get an idea if you guys will be in charge of future support issues. I am happy with it and think it has great potential. I have made my own firmware for it but wanted to see if you will be releasing an AL-4 specific firmware any time soon. If you would like any feedback on the machine I would be glad to help out. I actually intended to do a review of the printer after I get some time with it. Any info you could give me for the review would be great. Really excited that I didn't buy a fly by night companies machine when I took the chance on it!!! I have created a Thingiverse group as well and have done some modifications you may be interested in.
The AL-4 is made by the same company but this is one that is custom made for us that we'll be selling under the EZ300 branding. Our version has dual Z, Auto Bed Leveling, Solid bed mounts, Meanwell PSU, Sunon Fans, High Temp PTFE Pre-installed, and many other improvements.
I'm waiting my order of this to arrive and is now printing the Petsfang mount to hold it. My question is, what side (of the mount/hotend) do you suggest mounting it on?
@@TH3DStudio Thank you kindly. Any particular reasoning behind left/right? Will be using your EZABL direct and solid mounts and about ready to install your unified drivers too.
If you have ABL on the machine yes. We have a solid mounts section for a few machines here: www.th3dstudio.com/product-category/general-upgrades/solid-bed-mounts/ You can also use nylon or aluminum spacers of the correct heights for whatever machine you are fitting them do. Just measure what height your springs are at to get that height.
I just don't get why both versions of the kit just doesn't use the already present plug for the z-axis, why cut it? (you're just moving the leads from the printer to your box in both versions). Also, for the EZConnect version it would be nice with an EU plug option. What kind of USB power is required if you use the USB plug? Could you drive it from a OctoPI Raspberry PI also connected to the printer?
The Direct Wire is a universal kit. EZ-Connect is for the machines with the 3 pin plugs. We're already working on a new revision for 2019 that will do away with the "EZ-Connect" and "Direct Wire" setups. It will have both connections on the board to simplify this for users and our sake for inventory.
where do you download the file to print the mount from. i have one in ABS i printed when i first got the printer but i want to print a couple of spares in PETG incase i damage this one.
You'll want to get all your firmware basics setup and then follow our guide for the ABL settings that we have detailed on our page here: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezabl-setup-for-vanilla-marlin/
There were a few spots that we didn't realize the video stabilization was causing issues. We're getting better camera equipment for the future videos. This was all shot on a Galaxy S9+
absolutely not clear: the distance between the sensor and the nozzle should be 2 mm on ezbl pro, but in this vide seems for to calibrate it you have to raise the nozzle from the plate 2 mm so the sensor is 4 mm higher then the plate? right? i have to to calibrate at 4mm higher of the plate (i have ezabl pro)? sorry but this guide is very far from to be complete, i have to see tutorial from other youtuber , sorry but not good video from th3d to explain how to really calibrate the probe and till nothing specific for ezabl pro!
That is because this is for the EZABL, not the EZABL Pro. You can use the video here (until we have a pro specific one out) to get an idea but you should be reading the installation guide for the EZABL Pro to install the EZABL Pro. You can download the EZABL Pro specific guide here on our website: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/installation-guide/
Arduino: 1.8.5 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch/ultralcd.cpp:96:0: sketch/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:46:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory #include ^ compilation terminated. exit status 1 Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560. This report would have more information with "Show verbose output during compilation" option enabled in File -> Preferences. this is the message i keep getting, can't verify or upload, rest of install was easy, this happens a lot, always firmware issues, can you point me in the right direction.
0:00 EZABL kits
0:48 EZABL connections
1:51 Direct wire wiring
4:30 Sensor power check
4:42 Mounting your sensor
6:44 Sensor wire routing
7:26 Sensor check after mounting, EZABL board LED check
7:36 EZABL casing wire routing
7:55 Firmware update > Unified Firmware
8:14 Z-endstop check, gcodes, trigger check
Seriously, do a trigger check, not a light check, that little light will not stop your bed getting smashed
10:39 Sensor calibration
13:08 Z-offset
15:29 Slicer setup/config
17:52 Thanks
tfm\further support
Reminder, this video does not replace the manual. Read the whole manual and watch the whole video before attempting anything!
Kris is the real MVP
@@TH3DStudio Could you pin it:)?
WoW just finished my EZABL installation on a CR-10S 5S with Octoprint and I am thrilled. I appreciated all of the detailed instructions made available.
Glad it helped
Thank god for this. I bought the kit and didnt even understand the concept of it's function. LOL. But now I understand 100%. Most appreciated.
Glad I could help!
Purchased an Ender 3 yesterday and should be here Tuesday. As soon as I get your kit in I will be installing it to this printer. Thank you for all of your hard work!
Thank you for making the EZABL! Thank you for making it user friendly! It's worth every penny and the support you offer is top notch. I've been printing for a year now and I didn't think I could get a better first layer but I was wrong so now it's not just a convenience it's invaluable. Very impressive....
Here is the installation guide for the original EZABL Kit: www.th3dstudio.com/downloads/TH3D_EZABL_InstallGuide.pdf
Excellent video. I have two CR-10s to install EZABL and EZOUT. This was clear and concise.
I have had one for a while now and this video will help t give me the courage to finally install it.
I'm glad I found this video. The direct wire seems like more work than is necessary.
I agree, however it's good to have options. The USB powered option is far more convenient in my setup :)
Got one for the CR-10S and Mini for Ender2. Best investment I have made yet on my printers. Now if I can just figure out how to get one set up on my CR-2020 I'll be good to go.
Many many thanks Tim!
Thank you for finally doing a video with the instructions on how to set this up .
If you were to make the case so the holes line up with the CR-10S mounting holes, you could remove the stop switch altogether and mount the case in that spot. That's what I did with mine, only one hole lines up and I use a zip tie on the other end. I am considering printing a custom case to address this, but I wanted to share just in case the manufacturer might consider such a change as well. One might even consider making the base of the case with a sliding/adjustable mount. This could allow for different mounting options.
awesome! i just got an ezabl from ya and the install was easy. great product! keep it up. firmware works great.
Great video, many thanks. I've flashed the firmware, now waiting for my kit to arrive - can't wait!
I have a suggestion as a new user, to increase consistence across multiple installs.
Since we know where we would like the probe in reference to the nozzle (2mm, in your guide)
You could send an alignment tool to ease the height adjustment of the EZABL and create a very consistent install method.
The tool would be very simple, a small circular ring with a 2mm base, and an 18mm clearance ID (or 12, in the case of the EZABL mini) Have the lip of the ring be maybe 0.6mm - just enough to keep the probe from slipping out of place - but without interfering with clearance for the bottom nut.
The instructions can then be changed to have this alignment tool installed on the end of the probe, with both nuts loose. The user would then proceed to lower the nozzle onto the bed until it makes contact, followed by tightening the nuts once the nozzle is touching. This would result in very good consistency of probe to nozzle distance, making for more reliable positive results for end users.
I was able to use the flat wrench included with my printer which I measured with Calipers... they are 2mm wide.
I just order this kit and I can't wait to add it to my printer. Thank you for the video.
I just purchased mine. I can't wait for it to get here.
Yeah awesome timothy! Thanks! Although I already I installed my ezabl. Thanks again for the phone support! Best service!
It's not till 4:54 that you mention that you have to print the mount for the EZABL. That might be something you want to move forward before people start installing the device and then realize they have to print a piece for it first. (This is purely from an excitement standpoint, people may just fire up the video all excited and follow along and then realize they have to go back) :-) At the very least a title card and a link to where to download the STL. I'm sure it's in the guide but some people may only watch the video. Hope that helps!
The video specifically says that it is not meant to replace the guide but go along with it. If people are not reading the documentation then that is something we have no control over.
Excellent install video
Ugh...can't wait for it to come in the mail. I'm getting great results these days, but this will be the last variables issue I just want to ditch.
Thanks for this guide. Aprt from needing to switch the z-stop wires all has gone OK so far setting this up. Onwards and upwards!
Thanks Tim Your guide saved my butt,
Thanks again for your help Mac!
I'm still at an old firmware. This new one looks great. I'll be updating very soon.
thanks for the video I needed to reference to it after swapping the hotend of my CR-10 from an original style or a newer version
Excellent instructions. Great work
If you can, get a JST 2-pin female pigtail and male JST connector (the same type as the endstop connectors, just less pins) and mount the pigtail in the screw terminal. Pull out the pins from the Z endstop connector and put them in the male 2-pin JST connector. No need to cut wires, and reassembling the default endstop connector will be easy.
The new PRO kit has both options. The terminal and 3 pin JST. :)
Amazing cant wait to install mine
This is great wish I had it when I did the first install! Good job!
Just an idea, maybe cover how to insert the starting Gcode for Cura as well. I have the sensor calibrated, but I don't know how to get this new starting gcode set up in cura.
M75 ; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor
M84 SE ; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems
G28 ; home all axes
G28 Z ; home Z to get more accurate Z position
G29; EZABL mesh generation
G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover
excellent professor
Oh and another suggestion (if not already done), how about a rail mountable housing for the Creality printers?
Very helpful, thank you
I would add that octopi users prior to a ezabl install disable the Marlin eeprom plug in and use the th3d one in place of it because of the known issues with plug-in definitely it will save you a headache and hours of trying to diagnose
Thank you for the heads up! We updated the manual and pushed that out. Also sent out a message to our accounts to remind everyone to use our version. The original one is updated now but if you want to make sure you are on one that doesn't break anything use the one on our GitHub.
I wish you guys would include the offsets for each model in the comments (or at least mention them in the video) so I do not have to go hunting for the settings on your website or in the manual every time I have to re-calibrate my EZABLE. Yes, I know...this is meant to be a supplement, but this video is what many of your customers watch whenever they need to refresh their memory regarding the procedure. Often times the links on your website change. The link to this video does not.
"Manually move the Z with the printer LCD or your Computer/Pi until the nozzle is on the bed, then move up 2mm for EZABL and 1mm for EZABL Mini."
Nicely done sir 😉
Great Job Guys!
Great informative video right there. Thanks
Looks like a great kit Tim but will it be made available for the Alfawise U20?
GearBest is sending that machine to us next. We'll be seeing what we can do. The touch LCD is always a trouble for us since its closed source so we'll have to see if we can hack it a bit.
Great video. One question though: do you recommend going with your solid bed mounts as well when using this solution. It would seem to make sense.
Yes, get the solid bed mounts. You don't need to fine adjust bed height manually anymore. It will be flat enough for the ABL to do its job.
Just got my EZABL direct kit and solid mounts. I've got all the electrical hooked up but I'm feeling a bit uneasy about how to best set up the build plate with the solid mounts. Do you keep the now unused z stop as a physical limit to how low the x-carriage can go? The aluminium plate seems very uneven so if the nozzle rest at one point it will dig into it at another.
Awesome
Thank you!!!
No problem
Great video but is there something missing when setting up the Z-offset as for some reason on my Tevo Tornado first version and using firmware U1.R2.A8 it doesn't seem to be saving the offset setting because when I start a job away and the it starts a purge my nozzle is far to high off the board and I have also added your script into S3D?
See here: ruclips.net/video/IP-UHn7_yqs/видео.html
Well, if you move the Z offset when the nozzle is already down, it will continue to move down and crush on the built plate with your latest firmware!! Better to move the Z offset directly after setting Z to zero.
Correct- the printer moves while dialing in the z-offset. Auto home-> move down 5 mm, go to adjust z-offset, and do the paper routine right there. Store settings.
im missing the Babystep Z setting after I upgraded the firmware. I see Set Z Probe Offset, but it seems tied in with the other Z offset function and not independent of each other
Best and easiest kit in the market! Thumbs up 👍🏻
Are there any issues running this kit with the new 32 bit boards for the Ender 3 on Merlin 2?
The only one officially supported by us is the EZBoard right now. We have a page for setting up Marlin with our sensor here: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezabl-setup-for-vanilla-marlin/
hello what is the brand this 3d printer, it looks great. thank you and good video tutorial
same question.. i couldnt read that shit.
This is our prototype that we're working on. We've posted a lot of teasers and print tests here: instagram.com/th3dstudio/?hl=en
UPDATE: DO NOT USE THE WASHERS INCLUDED WITH SENSOR. WHEN I REMOVED THEM, THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY.
Installing my sensor now... finally... I was also finally assembling my Ender 5 watching your unbox and build and came to that video where you where installing the sensor. I have seen a few others... I noted in this one and the other that you are not using those bulky large locking washers. You are just using the two nuts. Should I remove these washers and redo the leveling? Also, with the unheated, room temp Hotbed I get .00...... numbers for the M48 test. With the bed heated up to 70 deg the numbers jump around from .1.... to now the latest 0.39.... to .48... Is this normal? I am letting it cool down now to see what happens at ambient. I am using the hard mounts as well that you provide and not the springs that came with the unit. UPDATE: back down to 29 deg and M48 reports .008....
Sounds like you may have a grounding issue on the printer that's causing interference. Check our knowledgebase for articles on grounding. There are 2 in there.
TH3D Studio, After watching a few more install videos I found that we do NOT use the included washers. We use ONLY the nuts. I was concerned about how those washers were affecting how level the sensor was as they are designed to be tightened down hard to lock the item or if it was a bolt in place. We cannot do that without breaking the mount. I removed the washers and now I’m confident the sensor is installed aligned with mount and head. The results with the bed cold or hot are now great!! I’d recommend removing those washers from kits sent or at least include a note saying not to use them. I’ve watched a few other videos on RUclips where people are using the washers... hope they figure it out.
sorry for my stupid question, does it work only with original printer board or it work also with your ez board lite (i have oredered it)? ps i have a creality cr-10s
It's fully supported on the EZBoard as well as the stock board. :)
@@TH3DStudio thanks! :)
Hey, I just wanted to reach out. I ordered this printer about a month ago and have had a few issues with it. I have got it running good and just wanted to get an idea if you guys will be in charge of future support issues. I am happy with it and think it has great potential. I have made my own firmware for it but wanted to see if you will be releasing an AL-4 specific firmware any time soon. If you would like any feedback on the machine I would be glad to help out. I actually intended to do a review of the printer after I get some time with it. Any info you could give me for the review would be great. Really excited that I didn't buy a fly by night companies machine when I took the chance on it!!! I have created a Thingiverse group as well and have done some modifications you may be interested in.
The AL-4 is made by the same company but this is one that is custom made for us that we'll be selling under the EZ300 branding. Our version has dual Z, Auto Bed Leveling, Solid bed mounts, Meanwell PSU, Sunon Fans, High Temp PTFE Pre-installed, and many other improvements.
I'm waiting my order of this to arrive and is now printing the Petsfang mount to hold it. My question is, what side (of the mount/hotend) do you suggest mounting it on?
Right.
@@TH3DStudio Thank you kindly. Any particular reasoning behind left/right?
Will be using your EZABL direct and solid mounts and about ready to install your unified drivers too.
"Move the nozzle back up the distance mentioned in the installation guide based on the kit you have" - Original EZABL: 2mm .. The Mini: 1mm.
Do you recommend replacing the bed springs with something solid so it can't move around? If so do you sell what your recommend?
If you have ABL on the machine yes. We have a solid mounts section for a few machines here: www.th3dstudio.com/product-category/general-upgrades/solid-bed-mounts/
You can also use nylon or aluminum spacers of the correct heights for whatever machine you are fitting them do. Just measure what height your springs are at to get that height.
So one quick question. to use the EZABL you must also the TH3D Unified firmware? this will not work with Marlin firmware?
You can use it with Marlin. Unified is a heavily customized and simplified branch of marlin. It just replaces your Z endstop.
Any advantage going with the standard size vs. the mini? I have a CR-10 S5. Thanks.
On that machine no. We came out with the mini for machines like the Wanhao D6 that have limited space on the hotend.
Where is the STL file do you use to print the skirt you are demonstrating ? Thanks
In the firmware download pack :)
+1 for the iPV mod
Is it the same with cura?
Do you have to recalibrate the sensor every time you re-level the bed/find your z-offset?
Just check your offset. No recalibration needed.
I just don't get why both versions of the kit just doesn't use the already present plug for the z-axis, why cut it? (you're just moving the leads from the printer to your box in both versions).
Also, for the EZConnect version it would be nice with an EU plug option.
What kind of USB power is required if you use the USB plug? Could you drive it from a OctoPI Raspberry PI also connected to the printer?
The Direct Wire is a universal kit. EZ-Connect is for the machines with the 3 pin plugs. We're already working on a new revision for 2019 that will do away with the "EZ-Connect" and "Direct Wire" setups. It will have both connections on the board to simplify this for users and our sake for inventory.
Any USB port will work. The cable we ship has a DC to DC Step up to provide 12V to the module.
@@TH3DStudio Less SKU's is better for everyone :)
Any idea when this will be available to purchase?
Est-ce que votre capteur fonctionne correctement sur un plateau de verre
Oui, les capteurs EZABL fonctionnent tous sur des lits de verre. :)
@@TH3DStudio je pense que je vais en acheter à la fin du mois je possède une imprimante HC Maker 7 j'espère juste que vous livrez en france rapidement
where do you download the file to print the mount from. i have one in ABS i printed when i first got the printer but i want to print a couple of spares in PETG incase i damage this one.
This works on cr10? or only cr10s?
Both models are supported. If you check our unified firmware pack we have all the machines listed: Firmware.TH3DStudio.com
How do I upgrade my Ender3 with an SKR V1.3 V1.3 mainboard and Marlin bugfix 2.0 when fitting the probe
You'll want to get all your firmware basics setup and then follow our guide for the ABL settings that we have detailed on our page here: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezabl-setup-for-vanilla-marlin/
Where is the installation guide for the original EZABL?
In our help center: support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043726851
Will this work with a warped (concave) bed?
Yes it will compensate for those kind of issues.
Hello, which one is best for ender 3, (mini or normal) can you direct link product please.
The normal one is the best seller. Both work the same. We have a full detailed page here: www.th3dstudio.com/ezabl-kit/
What printer where you installing it on?
www.th3dstudio.com/artillery-ez300/
@@TH3DStudio looks pretty darn cool
It doesn't actually touch the plate when it homes Z... in the video. Should it?
It is a non-contact Z probe. It should not contact the surface. It reads interruption with the field that is emitted from the sensor tip.
why is the video flickering?
There were a few spots that we didn't realize the video stabilization was causing issues. We're getting better camera equipment for the future videos. This was all shot on a Galaxy S9+
absolutely not clear: the distance between the sensor and the nozzle should be 2 mm on ezbl pro, but in this vide seems for to calibrate it you have to raise the nozzle from the plate 2 mm so the sensor is 4 mm higher then the plate? right? i have to to calibrate at 4mm higher of the plate (i have ezabl pro)? sorry but this guide is very far from to be complete, i have to see tutorial from other youtuber , sorry but not good video from th3d to explain how to really calibrate the probe and till nothing specific for ezabl pro!
That is because this is for the EZABL, not the EZABL Pro.
You can use the video here (until we have a pro specific one out) to get an idea but you should be reading the installation guide for the EZABL Pro to install the EZABL Pro. You can download the EZABL Pro specific guide here on our website: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/installation-guide/
Arduino: 1.8.5 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
In file included from sketch/ultralcd.cpp:96:0:
sketch/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h:46:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory
#include
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
this is the message i keep getting, can't verify or upload, rest of install was easy, this happens a lot, always firmware issues, can you point me in the right direction.
If you follow the directions on the firmware page it will work.
Grerat video, very informative, but that jerky camera..............OMG.
how do i install the starting script in CURA?
nevermind found it....