Watch before buying Chevy Volt Battery
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2022
- Here is a quick run through of what I like about the Chevy Volt battery and what to look for when buying one from a salvage yard for your own electric car conversion.
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I’d be interested to see how to use this battery in an EV conversion. However, please use your high voltage gloves whenever working inside these live high voltage packs. It only takes one mistake to be the last thing you do.
As an electrician I think it's kinda dumb to work on this with out gloves but with a wedding ring on is next level dumb.
Thank you for this excellent video. Best video I have watched in a long while.
Wow, that's amazing! Good work explaining and showing us this battery!
Good video
To replace a battery pack in a Chevy Volt:
Can each cell be tested under load in addition to a no-load voltage check?
Can the best individual cells then be mixed and matched from the junkyard battery pack and your own Volt battery pack?
great info. thanks for sharing!
I'm about a third of the way through the video where you are talking about how the Volt handles charge cycles. If you don't mind me sharing, I have a 2013 Nissan Leaf that had 12 bars on the SOH guage when I bought it in early 2016 and now 7, almost 8 years later I have 10 bars. I attribute this to my charging rules that I defined while researching EV's before I bought one. I have the computer set to stop charging at 80%, and I've only taken the charge below 20% once (out of necessity). In addition, I use level 1 charging almost exclusively, though I have used level 2 public charges a handful of times, again, out of necessity. Whether or not my regimen is the reason why I still have around 75% of battery capacity or if I just got lucky, I don't know but I'm fairly certain that keeping the battery pack in that sweet zone between 20-80% of charge doesn't hurt.
I build powerwalls out of the chevy volt batteries. I have been using 5 packs for my powerwall now for 5 years.
Any videos or knowledge to share?
did you use a BMS?which one?thanks
@patrickdufour5025 No I haven't picked a b m s yet. I'll be testing at least two or three different units. The battery seemed more reliable than the b m s is i've seen for years.
helpful... thanks alot for your work!!
Do you use a bms with the volt pack? If so what type. Thanks for the video
For checking the balancing of cells, comparing the voltages of each, isn't it more important to check them at their discharged SOC? By "discharged" I mean at their lowest normal cycle voltage.
Good info! Thanks.
Anybody imaged replacing the Chevy Volt’s 18.4-kWh battery with a repackaged Tesla Cells groups = 103.0 kWh in the Chevy Volts Battery well / enclosure as it appears a Tesla Model S *103.0 kWh package of cell groups if restacked appropriately may actually fit in volume of space the Volts T shaped enclosure provides. Surly it appears posable approximating the cubic inches of volume Chevy provided for “there bulky 18.4KWh package is very nearly the displacement of Tesla’s cell groups if reconfigured.
I hear ya brother. Being married needs an outlet for all that crazy.
Can’t you rig up a little arduino with a can bus shield to communicate with the battery and probe the status?
Thank you for that. I'm off to check out one of my own. Do you know what sized bolts hold down the cover? Thanks again.
10mm
Fascinating
The Volt engine actually runs through a geared transmission to propel the car. It has a drive motor and a motor/generator also. ruclips.net/video/dqM3YXEf1js/видео.html
i have two of these (48 volt group) wired parallel running a golf cart with a voltage meter to monitor each battery...how low in voltage can i run it safely??? If it is not running as long as it was when i got it what could be wrong .. a bad cell??
I just did the same to a golf cart. It must never go below 3.0V per cell or cells could get damaged. If you always push it that low it will start to degrade the battery. I like to keep it from going below 3.4ish volts. Also you should NEVER charge above 4.2V per cell but it's better to stop around 4.0 if you can to maximize battery life. If you don't have a BMS on it to balance cells then you better pop the top off and check it cell by cell very often. A cheap DC power supply can manually balance them. I used a 32s ANTbms from China for mine.
I have a 2011 volt I'm willing part out
Brian, what type of screws hold down the cover? are they phillips or torqx , thanks
I think they are a 10 mm or 8 mm around the outside and a torqx around the fuse HV disconnect plug which also needs removed to take off the cover. I'm not totally sure though it's been a few months.
Hey there, I'm looking for a BECM module for my Volt. Do you use those or would you sell it?
Aren't those only a problem on the second gen volts? I think I have the one from a 2nd gen sitting in my garage. I am not going to use it but it will fail eventually too. And you probably need a dealer to flash the software to make it work with your volt.
Do you know how to check the thermocouples on the battery packs?
First Gen they are internal. A Google search should help you find the pin out of the BMS plugs on the top of the battery or just use a multimeter and check pins to find the two that don't have cells connected. Then you should be able to compare millivolts across the thermocouple with all the other one in the other modules assuming your pack is all the same Temp. On second Gen they are external and easy to get to and test.
Informational, but you're awful close to high VDC with your hands there...
whats the kwh of the pack ?
16.4 kwh's
Our 2012 Volt is still charging to 33 miles at 68k miles.
i wish my 2012 had that kind of charge but it's at over 207k miles and it switches to the gas primarily.
@@daveheel Thanks for the comment. I have been wondering where ours will end up.
are you the original owner? that's not a lot of miles for a 12 year old car.
@@daveheel No, we are the second owner. We are in our mid-70s and don't drive much. Hardly ever do we need to have the car switch to the generator. The Volt is the perfect car for those in a simular circumstance.
@@joel6427 i see. that's good. for mine, it randomly switched over but now, it stays on the engine.
metal ring... no HV golves... be safe!
I scares me how you casually and repeatedly you lay your hands on the battery pack. I know it's not high voltage AC or plutonium or a poisonous snake.. but still ought to at least pretend to respect it. I saw a wench get shorted to ground on a battery pack on a bulldozer once... it made a lasting impression on me. I'm guessing those 8 6v batterys only had a fraction of the capacity that the Volt battery pack does....
Good video. You need to work on your Hindu accent. I can actually understand you.
I’d be interested to see how to use this battery in an EV conversion. However, please use your high voltage gloves whenever working inside these live high voltage packs. It only takes one mistake to be the last thing you do.