Dealer Wants $10,000...for THIS?? (Chevy Volt Not CHARGING: P0AA6)
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- Опубликовано: 1 дек 2023
- Owner brought his low-mileage 2013 Chevy Volt over to PHAD for a second opinion.
He says that the Volt is setting a "High Voltage Charging System Fault" and refusing to take a charge from the wall.
The "DEATH CODE" set is a P0AA6 - EV Battery Isolation Lost.
The dealer replaced a coolant level sensor, code came back, and then they quoted the customer over $10,000 to replace the main EV battery...which is Discontinued!!
Let's follow the OEM Service Procedure and TSB to diagnose this fault.
Can we get the Volt back to good health without breaking the bank?
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TOPDON TOPSCAN:
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Enjoy!
Ivan 
Авто/Мото
30:00 "I don't know why I'd have one - it's a heavy thing that only seats four people - kind of a toy"
What a failure of GM's marketing division, that someone who works on cars doesn't know what made the Volt great. Seats an entire family and cargo, does 90% of your driving on cheap electricity, and can still roadtrip across the country with zero advance notice or charging stops.
GM built a crazy good EV and didn't bother to mention it to anyone.
For isolation testing, you need a special isolation tester (a Megger) because they use higher measurement voltages than a regular multimeter. Some materials measure fine when they're measured with a few volts, but they break down under higher voltages, that's why isolation testers use measurement voltages up to 1000V, which gives a lot more precision in measuring isolation resistance.
I've used a megger to check wiring for shorts to ground or wire to wire
This is not true at all. Certified EV tech here. Isolation meters output a lot higher voltage(low amperage) during resistance tests to exacerbate the loss of isolation. A non isolation meter may give a false reading because it can't produce high enough voltage for resistance testing to arc across the point of LOI. Sometimes an isolation meter will not show it either unless you spray water around the assumed circuit.
A cheap meter can measure high voltage no problem.
A regular megger won't work here since you have to deal with the battery voltage always being present in the measurement circuit. Hence the "AC" test with a DC blocking capacitor no doubt. Measuring DC voltage between the HV + and - and the case would more likely yield useful information, utilizing the meter's high input impedance. Of course, that assumes the HV + and - aren't both conducting to the case. :(
@@DonovanFoli Wasn't that exactly what I said? I would recommend against using super cheap hardware store meters though since not all of them are rated for >500VDC. Something like a Fluke 115 won't let you down here.
@@Stoney3Kthat's what I thought 🤔
There were some issues with the coolant level sensor wiring on some models. The wire strands could break within the insulation, might be found during a tug test. When I was working at gm dealer and a volt came in with those codes. Followed that tsb , and I would also replace the sensor and connector. Never came across one with coolant or moisture from that drain plug. Also I do remember the becm would always have that unrecognized calibration even after programming. Which makes it confusing to tell whether or not it had been updated before.
Thanks for that info, I thought SPS2 was just glitching on the calID numbers haha
Car honks when you have the key fob in the car it reminds you I hate it but glad it doesn't lock on you
Gotta admire your willingness to tackle any problem!!! Kudos!!
Check under the right front seat you updated that module, it can get wet so check it for green crusties (the hardware has been updated afew times check which version you have if you have an old version of the module it might be worth while to get a newer one and program it). The HV coolant heater inside the HV battery pack can get corrosion on the welded joint which can cause a isolation fault. They made it out of 2 different materials and welded them together it's a known weakpoint which can alter the resistance value and set that faultcode.
That Must be a 10k FIX! wITH sPECIAL sERVICE TOOLS! hELL nO!!!
@@dporrasxtremeLS3this happened to my Volt and it cost $1100 at the dealer to drop the battery and replace the heater. That's been the only thing to go bad in 11yrs and 100k miles on this car and is a fraction of the money saved from buying fuel and time wasted going to a gas station. It also kept the car on the road for many years to come. These are first generation EV's and are holding up really well.
Three fast horn honks on a GM vehicle with push button means that the key is still in the vehicle. I had one of these run me on a wild goose chase a few years ago with an isolation fault that would only set while you had it plugged in. It ended up being the battery pack coolant heater inside the pack was seeping coolant into the high voltage connector. Was during the winter so the car heats the battery while it charges.
On my Volt it meant that I had gotten out of the car to pick up limbs in my driveway so I could drive on it (since the Volt has almost 1 entire inch of ground clearance) and my head was now bent over and in the perfect position for me to shit myself when the horn went off directly in my ear. But mine was a 2g so maybe they changed it to that.
I would think the process of charging the battery would cause enough heat. As much as they like to explode or catch fire I'm kind of shocked that tey would put a heater inside the battery housing.
You're a funny guy Nate.@@natehill8069
@@natehill8069 lol
@@ElvenJusticeall modern EV's have a coolant loop in the battery to heat or cool it. Good modern cars warm the battery for faster DC fast charging and then pull the heat back out of the battery to heat the cabin. These modern batteries have such low resistance that charging them on a regular AC charger does not heat them at all, you need to fast charge them with DC for that to be a thing.
That special insulation meter charges and discharges an internal capacitor to 500-1000V to test resistance. Stellantis uses the Fluke 1587 (which costs about $1k and is thankfully supplied by the dealership). Isolation testing with that meter is also done before power-up when high-voltage components are replaced. The vehicles I've worked on have isolation resistances in the megaohm range (2.3M, 8.6M, etc.) and are tested at 500V.
On another note - you can buy the batteries aftermarket now and they aren’t too bad. $6-$10k with warranty and shipping included. The $10k cost uses the newest cells.
Great video, we need more mechanics like you that truly track down the issue.
I was a mechanic for decades, but adjusting a carburetor on a 69 roadrunner doesn't touch today's technology
The resistance tester is also called a "megger" uses high voltage to test insulation resistance. 500 to 1000 volts, not the very few volts your dmm uses to test resistance. It can find insulation breakdown that a dmm will never see. Some day you will probably need one, unless you never service an ev or hybrid again... ;)
Came here to say this. The “special” meter isn’t necessary because of user safety. You are just measuring to a degree that your run of the mill meters can’t do. In fact, an insulation tester/megger is technically less safe, because it can zap the piss out of you. Lol
100% correct
Question, is the megger similar to an DC Hypot Tester? Question 2: The word contactor is mentioned a few time in Ivan video. Is contactor similar in fashion to a HVAC compressor contactor, where theres a massive arc every time its pulled closed. If true could a worn contactor be the cause of these low isolation values?@@athhud
Even a megger for an EV may have some differences. they have test capability in some models of 1500DcV
@MIdaffy502 : I was a design/build electrical engineer/contractor for over 40 years. We did a lot of 15kv work for industry.
#1 Yes, the DC hipot is a nondestructive test that measures insulation resistance in megaohms. If there is a fault or a leak, it will tell you. The cables and gear were always tested before being energized. Another important test in those big factories was for the counterpoise ground system. It requires a different tester but is important to affirm the building is anchored to earth ground plane for lightening protection. Counterpoise ground systems are also very important for electrical transmission systems, radio, microwave and cell towers. Not only for lightening protection but also for proper directional transmission of the signal. I found it better to rent the testers when needed than to own them. We rented from General Electric Rents, so we knew the meters were operational and certifiably calibrated when we used them.
#2 A contactor draws the arc when opening under load and not so much when closing. Contactors at higher voltages and for large loads use a "blowout coil" around the contacts to extinguish the arc when opening before it consumes the contactor.
Strange stuff, electricity. Colorless, odorless and invisible until you hit the switch. 💥😂
Since the error messages occur mostly on damp wet days, I would have inspected the BECM’s connections for green crusties, and checked its powers and grounds too. Must be some simple reason for the unrecognized calibration message.
You have to drop the battery out to get to the becm. Average Joe won’t be able to do that at home then battery packs are heavy
It sounds like the proper tools are needed.
i work with heavy-duty EV's so this is all familiar to me. the dealer went the lazy route and assumed loss of isolation in battery pack, replace whole battery pack, but you've done well here, if you're at > 1000 kOhm isolation resistance test, you're golden, this is a good safe pack and car. sometimes, it really is just a software culprit that misreported the safety-critical numbers.
by the way, the car's honking at you to tell you that you've closed the door with the keys inside.
As more people get these things they are going to get screwed by lazy dealers who are likely to be the only ones who will service them. How does that “save “ money with EVs?
there is no such thing as a safe pack or safe EV. and you know it.
ahhh. I thought it was a look at me I am green alert. The new cascadia trucks have the same annoying beep. LOL
@@DieselRamcharger Is there a car with a safe gas tank?
@@billsmith5166 yeah, all of them. Gasoline is hard to ignite, chemically stable and not at all explosive in our atmosphere. which is why engines require compression in order to "explode" even then, its still deflagration not detonation. Your ignorance of scientific fact is no excuse.
Had the isolation cone up on my 2012 about 10 years ago. GM took apart all the hv connectors and brought out an engineer from Detroit to check it. Couldn't find any reason it tripped. Rese it. 10 years later the car runs perfect. Over 200,000 miles of trouble free driving. Still get about 33 miles per charge. Have had all the hybrid control and becm updates. Will have to spend some money soon as a wheel bearing is getting loud but as far as the battery, electronics and engine goes it has been prefect except a burp when it was a year old. Happened incidentally while I was poking around using the app my green volt. The elm327 obd reader was plugged in and dealer thinks that is what initially set the isolation connectivity code.
I sort of expected it to be fixed when I saw those much higher resistance values after you reprogrammed that battery module, and it would appear that those values are now sticking. Must've been some calibration that was off. Great job.
Wonder why it took 10 years for the calibration problem to show up?
@@bills6093 What is the date for TSB? Maybe something in the module doing the AC test degrades over time and the measurement becomes inaccurate? Perhaps an capacitor or some other component which does not age well. Instead of doing expensive battery replacement, they decided to change the calibration. Since we have this very odd fault showing the version of the calibration, maybe the previous tech did not update the module? We do not know. Ford / Volvo did this with Magneti Marelli ETM (Electronic Throttle Module) which wore out the potentiometers prematurely. They changed the program code to not to set code until most cars were out of warranty.
You SIR are a scholar and a gentleman! The information you provided in this one video is 100 times more info than I have collected on my own scouring the internet and going through tons of blogs and volt sites. The bonus footage just saved me $1000 and the Bosch will save me thousands of dollars on upkeep. Something for all VOLT owners to remember is that some of the power charge cords have 30A and 20A glass fuses in them that can and do need to be replaced from time to time.$3560 quoted from my dealership on a couple codes and the car not charging for replacement of the inverter...$50 fixed it.
That's fantastic! :)
Your point about being locked into the dealers is spot on. I had a 2013 Chevy Volt up until 2020 when I had the coolant pump for the main Hybrid battery fail. The dealer had to order the pump (under warranty) from GM and it took a month to get as GM had just announced 6 months prior to my service that they were no longer going to make the Chevy Volt. The dealer said that parts for the Volt were getting difficult to get and this was typical. After a month of waiting and the dealer unable to get any info from GM, the part came in, the dealer installed it, and I drove it for two days before trading it in on a ICE powered car NOT made by GM. The dealer was great, but GM was bad to deal with. It was obvious to me after this repair that the Volt service was just going to get more difficult and expensive if I had to rely on GM.
I would guess that you are a typical E V convert. Get an E V , over pay for it, use it until the battery is shot then find out there is no logical use for an E V with no battery as the battery is more expensive than the residual value of the car.
Sorry, YOU are completely wrong on your assessment and opinions of me. Not surprised someone would post a comment like this on RUclips to get attention. I bought the car used at the bottom of the previous car market slump that happened several years ago for a very cheap price. The dealer had three of them and just wanted to get rid of them. When GM gave up on the hybrid EV market with the Volt I got rid of it as a fully functional with the battery capable of being fully charged. Traded in the car when the market was hungry for good clean vehicles and minimized my loss to less than $2k over the three+ years I had it. Hybrid EV's still make sense to me, but full EV's don't due to the lack of charging infrastructure in this country.@@emerald640
Not sure who you are going to jump to. Ford craps all over consumers as well. I bought a Ford Transit and not only does the transmission NOT have a dipstick; to change the fluid and filter you have to - pull the transmission because the pan doesnt drop if the tranny is in the van (I suppose you could cut apart the chassis instead). Also to access the spark plugs (even just to check/gap them) you have to remove the intake manifold, which will entail a new gasket if you want to reinstall the intake.
Dodge didnt see anything wrong with my Dakota brakes spontaneously locking up so theyre hardly the pinnacle of integrity either.
Toyota would be who I would "jump" to. Although I'm already a Toyota owner who finds their quality outstanding producing mid-level vehicles. At the high end of hybrid vehicles, I've looked seriously at Porsche who have very sophisticated EV systems along with their gas engines being bullet-proof with long warranties. @@natehill8069
GM is Crooked. They discontinued the model so they could have an excuse to stop making parts making people think the only option is to buy a new car
Smart idea charging it outside away from your house!
I don't trust them 🤣
Me neither. I don't trust them enough to drive/ride in them just yet. It's a 2000 pound lithium bomb.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsFire Hot
Better idea. Don’t buy one
Someone in my neighborhood has a Chevy Bolt. He charges it on the street using an extra long extension cable stretched across his lawn. We all have to drive around it and watch out for the open charge port door. It's the suburbs. We all have driveways and garages. Hmmm??!!??!
Having owned (3) first generation Chevy Volts and a Cadillac ELR for a period over 10 years I can definitely say that these cars are very finicky to a healthy 12V battery. I've cleared many faults over the years simply by disconnecting the 12V battery for a period of 10-15 minutes. When doing so, was a perfect time to put the 12V battery on charger (AGM settings) and top it off. Make note of the SOH of the 12V battery as well. If this doesn't work, it could most definitely be time for a new 12V battery.
Yes, the system is supposed to use the DC to DC converter to maintain the 12V battery but does a terrible job. These cars and their 12V batteries need to be placed on a portable 12V charger every 4-5 months in my opinion. That comes with approximately 250,000 miles in actual seat time in these cars.
My 2015 Volt is on the original 12V battery with no issues. I think people get too obsessed with replacing the 12V battery.
Check positive connections and grounds firstly for corrosion, paint, loose contact, etcetera. I think a lot of people fixate on the battery when other problems with the battery's system exist.
@@michael.sierra this is true but I had tested the battery in my 2014 ELR and it tested Okay. Took it to two other auto stores and tested okay as well. Used all my bag of tricks and still had multiple display issues showing on the DIC. Whether it was suspension issues or whatever. It didn't go away until I replaced the 12V battery.
This sounds unusual, but I recommend all people put their 12 V. battery on a trickle charge when not using it. I do, they last for years.
@tedmoss I could have either of the 4 vehicles be used on my daily commute, 500 miles / week, plug in the vehicle all weekend long and still not have a 12V battery 100% charged. I don't know anyone that has the same level of experience with these vehicles as I do. 10 years worth of driving and a quarter of a million miles in the seat.
I've even had a car charged all night long, drive 250 miles to see family and when I went to go out and show them our new ride, it wouldn't start. That was new vehicle with like less than 5K miles on it. The DC/DC converter does not to a good drive.
I've done a lot of research when it comes to batteries and there are manufacturers that do suggest charging, on an independent charger, every 6 months to top them off.
Interesting video. So many things to unpack. Why would someone have a gen1 Volt? How about having to purchase gasoline once every 3-6 months? Having the ability to wake up every morning with a full “tank”. Having the ability to drive as far as you want with the built in range extender?
I bought a 2011 when it was new and almost 13 years later it’s still my daily driver. I’m pretty sure you fixed it, reprogramming BECM calibration was the fix. GM reduced the sensitivity in the isolation test in the latest calibration because it was originally too sensitive to loss of isolation.
This all happened because in November 2011, NHTSA did crash test, and about a week after the crash test, the Volt caught fire. Everyone in the media made a huge deal about this, there was even a meeting in congress. GM over reacted a little afterwards. The problem is in the crash, coolant lines broke in the battery, coolant leaked into the high voltage portion of the BECM PCB. After the coolant evaporated off of the PCB, it left an electrically conductive residue on the PCB which caused a high voltage short to ground and ignited a fire.
For a fix, Chevy dealers removed batteries in early 2011 Volts and installed a strengthening bracket to minimize damage to high voltage battery in a crash. They also installed a silly anti-tamper device on top of the battery coolant reservoir to prevent the car owner from topping up the reservoir. This was to see if there was a coolant leak inside the battery they didn’t want the bottle to be topped up. They were really afraid of coolant leaking inside the battery. They were over reacting. They also added the level sensor to the reservoir in the early Volts.
These days much all the Chevy dealers have abandoned the Volt. Most of the trained techs have left years ago. When they quoted the 10gs, they just didn’t want to deal with that weird car. It was a take it away price. Anyhow I love my volt, and has also been almost trouble free for 13 years.
How many miles on it?
yeah, Volts are great vehicles. I have a 2018 with about 60k miles on it. I've had zero issues with it and the running costs are low. my normal driving is within the normal EV range so I don't burn much gas and the car was only $22.5k new after rebates and discounts. $22.5 for a liftback sedan that seats 5 and features a nice-ish leather interior and gets a realized 80 mpg was a no-brainer.
it's also worth pointing out that the car is marginally heavier than other compacts. The Volt weighs about 3500 pounds vs 3000-3400 for most other cars in the class. GM did a really good job with the overall platform development. It's a shame that market adoption was what it was. The new Prius PHEV has gotten rave reviews but what they've built is basically a Volt.
this diagnosis doesn't seem particularly difficult or very different from what you'd go through with a pure ICE vehicle. following the service bulletin likely resolved the issue but the voltec powertrain is an orphan (there are 200k examples in NA and that's it). Finding a technician/dealer that wants to work on this stuff is going to be a challenge moving forward.
it also never ceases to amaze me at how bad many mechanics are at doing anything other than swapping out brake pads
@@chappell721 most anything 6 years old at 60k miles should still run like new. I'm curious how the Volt will hold up at 20 years 200k miles... 🤔
Look , I am going to try to help you.
1. The low isolation resistance measurement, is caused by condensation. What i would have done , put that car on a lift, pull that drain plug, get a shop heater, and blow hot air into that battery pack for a few hours, and try to get it dried out ; completely.
2. Then, retest for isolation resistance.
3. Yes , you could measure the wiring "insolation" resistance, yes with a megger, but I wouldn't worry about it.........
You just keep that battery pack dry on the inside, and you will be OK.
....
I have a 2014 Volt with 209,000 miles. I have gotten that code daily for the past 2+ years. I have a cheap Amazon OBDII code reader. I clear the codes every day when I get home. After clearing the code, it charges just fine. Its a necessary evil. Battery coolant level is visually fine. My Volt is my favorite car that I've ever owned. I bought the car in 2016 with 45,000 miles.
How many miles you get out of electric only?
Ivan, I truely believe that you are such a gifted person and also with this vid I am sure you will get more people coming to you with their EV. Beyond amazing talent. Dave in Guernsey, Channel Islands 7,500 miles from you.
Thank you for your support Dave! So far I have not really enjoyed working on Hybrids or EVs that much... maybe because they are so boring to drive haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticshow is an ev boring to drive? The performance is something an ice vehicle cannot duplicate!
It's a workhorse, best vehicle i have ever used for daily driving and food deliveries. No reverse gear so quickly maneuverable. Cup holders have removable liners for cleaning soda spills.
There are 3rd party options to get refurbished battery packs. Can actually reflash modules to give this car more performance, the performance of a 2014 Cadillac ELR. Neat!
I just bought a 2016 Cadillac ELR with the same codes for $12,500. Thank you for this video I’ll use it when the car arrives!
Man, that is a deal. Must have been at auction? Most of the 2016s are going for around $21k+ right now. They made some nice improvements that final year of production, yet still only managed to sell around 500 of them. Absolutely the sharpest-looking car Cadillac ever designed; based on my very satisfied 10-year 150k mi experience with my Volt so far, I might have to get one of those as my next car.
Where I use to work the system we used for isolation tests was called a Hipot Meg Ohmer operated at very high voltage. You had to be patient for the cycle to finish or it would bite you like crazy! 😳
Yeah, that is a meter not to put your hands across...
The meter you need is a megohmmeter called a megger for short. They are used to check for insulation breaking down under high voltages in electric motors. The meter can produce a high voltage at very low current. There are a variety of them available from around $50 to over $1,000. The Klein ET600 is a pretty good one for under $200. The problem showing up in damp weather might be caused by dampness in the charging port. I've wondered about the possibility of water getting into those connectors. It seems like they should be placed with a downward angle. The charging port could be damaged and need to be replaced.
The ones we use in our factory to test IR of cables are almost $7k ea. and there’s even more expensive ones.
He mentioned @28:35 that ". . . most meters only go to 20Mohm . . . " and he's probably thinking like I am: my Fluke 1507 is a dedicated insulation test instrument, but it tops out at 20Mohm too, which has been adequate for other EV insulation testing tasks, such as leaking stators on EV drive units; clearly, it's inadequate for GM's test spec for this procedure.
I guess I now have an excuse to get a "better" insulation tester :) Thanks for the tip on the Klein ET600.
[later]
I was wrong: the 1507 will measure to 20kohm, but performs an insulation test up to 10Gohm.
@@alsavage1 You need to put high voltage on it to see if it breaks down. Like an MOV breaks down at HV spikes but doesn't conduct at 120VAC.
@@jamesvandamme7786 Yes, agreed. And, the Fluke 1507, 1577, 1587 all apply that higher voltage during the test (you manually choose from 250/500/1000 etc.). That's how megohmeters work ;) And he said most only go to 20Mohm, which isn't incorrect, from the datasheets I recently reviewed.
I took my charging port off and dyed it out with a heat gun and the megs came up, reinstalled it and no more problem.
I had this problem on my 2014 ELR almost 2 years back. I ended up finding the TSB on-line, then went and got the programming tool off of Amazon for $100, the subscription from GM for $40, and I never had the problem again. One thing I did notice though is that my range discharge capacity went down after the updated calibration, so something changed about how it works. I used to be able to pull 12.7KWh out of the battery, now I'm limited to 10.0KWh.
I was initially worried as I was just 60 days out of my battery warranty but found I could just clear the code and charge the battery each time while I was troubleshooting.
That reminds me, I believe my subscription runs out this summer. Probably need to plug it in again to see if there are any calibration updates for the car.
Ivan, Thank you for heads up on the Topdon unit. Great video as always.
Welcome to my struggle about 2 years ago. 2014 Volt, still in warranty but had this code. Made appointments with 2 dealers to have it looked at just to find they didn't have any "certified" mechanics anymore. Ended up doing my research, got a knock-off GM ODB-II adapter (VCX) and the GM tech connect software, a week after they re-vamped it. Took me a month and a half off and on to get the VCX to work properly. Finally re-flashed the BCM and got rid of the code. Being this was the third and final time the car "Bricked" on me, I sold it 6 months later and bought a 18 year old Tundra.
I did enjoy the Volt but knowing there wasn't much support for them and knowing the clock was ticking on the battery prompted me to sell it and get the truck. Not to mention, I like holding onto vehicles for 10 years+ Really can't do that with an EV or PHEV, or at least it's not smart.
Hah I like to keep cars for 30+ years until they rust to pieces 😆
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Californian here. What is this rust thing you guys keep talking about? If a vehicle is good I hold onto it. Rolling on 25 years with my 93 bronco. 12 years with our 01 highlander etc.
has your tundra thrown that P1445 yet?
froggmann: on the Volt are you saying if you reflash the BCM or perhaps other modules too, the car will eventually lock you out and refuse to operate? To the point even the blessed Dealer can't unlock it? I need to call a Doc for a scrip after hearing your comment.
Did the BECM calibration download change the behaviour of the isolation test? It was after your reprogramming of the BECM that the measured isolation resistance increased from around 250k to 1M. Was that TSB essentially adding a 'fudge factor' to make the isolation test less fussy?
As an engineer and tinkerer, I approve this message. Sounds like something I would do.
Sounds plausible!
Do not worry about failing the test. We just lower the standards !
Ha…early versions is where you determine the test limits to ignore nuisance “fails”.
Has the traction battery coolant had it's 5-year flush? This could help with isolation in a an EV battery.
Another great video Ivan! Thanks for sharing!!
Interesting car. Over in Europe we know it as the Opel Ampera.
I actually did a testdrive in one a few years ago. Decided to buy a Toyota hybrid instead because of the high price for the Volt/Ampera. I did like it a lot tho.
The isolation meter induces high voltage to test the resistance of the circuit. Its an expensive meter that puts out a lot of voltage for its test the wires
I'd be inclined to poke a few bags of dessicant into that drain port then seal it up. They will absorb any residual moisture trapped inside the battery case.
One thing with these cars, when the battery is hot during normal running, driving through puddled water that can spray off the tyres will quickly chill the warm casing
causing a slight pressure drop inside. It will then equalize the pressure by drawing outside air in, in most cases damp air, then the condensation cycle will begin.
Our 2016 Chevy Volt is in the shop for a battery control module failure. Parts currently on back order with no eta on shipment. Chevy told us it could even be months. In one of the Volt forums, other owners stated that Chevy has known about this ongoing problem and kept it from customers. Apparently the NHTSA is posturing for class action but that has not been formalized or announced yet.
If a car can’t last 20 years it ain’t a car it’s a massive liability
In the salty frozen wastelands of northern PA and upstate NY, cars often rot away before they get anywhere near 20 years old.
I totally agree Sir, in fact that should be the minimum. I have a Engineering colleague with one of the Big 3.
He said, don't quote me but we design with a life expectancy of 7 years.
It's been that way for more than 2 decades.
@@DaddyBeanDaddyBean hey my rusty 1989 Mazda MPV begs to differ... 35 years in the rust belt and still driving! 😜
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It's a unicorn!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics My 2007 Volvo XC 90 Lives it’s life in the driveway of Northern PA
It has no rust
Volvo did it right
Dealers mechanics are nothing but glorified parts changers ... thinking is not allowed by the owners of the dealerships....
Partially because those mechanics never face the customers. The ones that do usually open their own shops and deserve the business. I am still driving an 05’ Dodge Ram and a an 06 Acura TL. I have no need for a new POS from any company.
I use to work for a dealer and the problem is that they want a high turnover rate. I was usually only given 0.5hr to diagnose a problem. By the time you hook up the scanner, scan for codes and look up the info, your 1/2 hour is used up, but you are expected to give an answer to the customer. There was no way that I would be given time work on a car for 3 days, unless it was a warranty issue
@@jaywhy2016 Exactly. It's a broken system!
Ivan ,I've yet to get my hands on one ,but I've got a Vauxhall Ampera coming to see me in a weeks time wish me luck !
You say at the end that your customers going on well at the moment pleasing though that is
I'm still curious about the moisture/damp wet weather having an effect, would like to dig into the earthing system /ground points just for grins & giggles ,what do you think ?.
As a retire navy electronics technician, the instrument for testing insulation resistance is call a Megohm meter. It generates up to 500 / 1000 VDC, you crank its generator which charges voltage multiplier circuits measure between insulation and ground. I retired before you came into existence, so the modern "meggers" will probably use a different system to deliver the high voltage needed to test insulation. most wires in the US are rated foe 600 vdc. Have a great day enjoy your videos in the Philippines.
This was clearly a warning for any existing or prospective EV owner. I can't believe your patience in going thru this, particularly for a guy who just did his first ev plug in charge! Amazing knowhow and fluidity with the scanner. Wow!!
Exactly! Let alone all the other downsides, this is probably the biggest downside.
Yes, ICE cars NEVER have any kind of issues...
@@Cheepchipsable ICE cars have their issues but at least they don't cost you 80% of the vehicles value for a new battery every few years.
@@telx2010 Tell that to all the Kia people who paid for engine replacements.... This is just new tech that everyone is getting used to. At some point there will be specialist repair places (like Electrified Garage) just like we have for ADAS now.
Besides, batteries are typically covered 7-10 years depending one where you live.
@@ckm-mkc KIAs have took the place of Trabant -like engine reliability after 2015. Sorry to say this, but the cut too many corners and produced too many bad engines. That's why I so harsh. There are also decent KIA's but..
This is typically what I see. The BECM programming fixes 9 out of 10 of them. If the code comes back after the programming you’ll definitely need the MegaOhm meter…. Almost never see them come back with problems.
Edit: One more thing I’d add is the pressure and vacuum test the cooling system for added assurance there isn’t a leak.
Great video... The fact that the Ohms number was different after you worked on it... 200Ohms vs the 1000 ohms or so,, later.. maybe the calibration was off and the update in software fixed it.
Glad its working for the customer.
Ivan Great job. You saved the customer from the parts changers.
10,000 $ module calibration? What a bargain🤪
There's some corrosion somewhere or some moisture somewhere that's bridging a gap when it's damp outside causing this, I feel like this is going to be a recurring issue and the reason the dealer wanted to replace the batteries probably because they've seen this a million times and there's something in the battery pack that when it gets wet it causes a resistance drop in the HV system.
But then why is the car now not fussing after the programming?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Good question, Knowing government motors they probably just changed the parameter to where it completely ignores the high voltage leak and inserts an absurdly large value in the data stream.
Hi Ivan, are you comfortable advising the customer to simply reset the fault codes so he can charge it despite the risk that the battery is genuinely compromised and that charging it in these circumstances could lead to a fire?
You didn’t check connections and grounds. The one thing I have learned from you and Eric O is always check your connections and grounds. Good video.
The honking is GM speak for "hey you left your keyfob in the car, dummy.". They have done this since 2005 or so since the introduction of keyless ignition in the 2005 Cadillac STS (I had one).
I assume the owner had a spare inside the car because it honked at me even if I took the fob with me lol
Not my area of experience, but, seems to me this resistance check is a safety feature/requirement/mandate to mitigate the potential for arcing/fires/ battery explosions from shorts and/or faults. I do have experience with small and large battery plants and caution you to be very very (very!) careful around any dc voltage from about 90 vdc, up. Use *only insulated tools (they're stupid expensive) or wrap in layers with electrical tape. Personally, I also always wore a type of thin, flexible, non-conductive glove.
Yeah, you really have to know what you are doing to work on electricity. I have done it all my life, and only made three mistakes. I used an uninsulated wrench on a 115 VDC battery, the magnetic field threw the wrench across the room when I dropped it, the short put a nice arc burn on the wrench. I got to close to a live HF transmitter coil 450 VDC (50,000 VAC) when I was 14 years old, burned a hole in my thumb and last, had my Spidel watch band on when I put my arm under the dash of a truck with a 24 V battery, causing it to short and heat up red hot, and burned my two fingers on the other hand ripping it off. I am 80 now and still working and trying to stay alive.
Very expensive indeed. The Fluke 1587 is over $1k
"they're stupid expensive"
You can get a nice set of Wiha electrical tools that are certified for under $60.
Yes however we had to use code-appeoved tools. All Fluke, FlLIR, and etc. Was the price of doing business with the government.
Don't worry these cars are Biden & Grandholms folly !!!
Here's a thought. The cool mornings is the thing that stuck out to me. Perhaps the atmosphere in the battery pack is saturated moisture and when heated is off the surface but when of cold down and settles on the surface. Perhaps a nitrogen purge is recommended.
The air reaches the dew point, in other words. Below which...condensation!
I bought the Xtool a30m for $170 its a bi-directional dongle its super nice also free lifetime updates on all makes and models
Worked in a food plant where they were cleaning all the time. Spraying things down with sanitizer foam and water. No mater how well you sealed things up water and chemicals got into control cabinets, connectors, and the like. Most things did not have any monitoring for leakage currents so the only indication was things not working or they went boom. We had a lot of VFDs and they would get unhappy when things got wet, either disconnect switches or the motors themselves. The would through over current or ground faults.
Its even more interesting trying to find open connections when dampness causes connections to fail, like open ground returns.
I've run into that SPS2 "Unknown Calibration" issue a few times, difference being I'm typically addressing replaced modules, and I have to let the bus go to sleep for ~30 minutes for the rest of the vehicle to recognize the programming.
The only other time I've seen the "Unknown Calibration" issue is when a shop installed a used/junkyard module off a different year/make, but same platform, but in that case, it absolutely would not accept programming, and the module did not function.
These vehicles are not common in my market, and I've only addressed two BECM replacements. The module lives at the front right of the vehicle and is very susceptible to deer hits. Kind of also a bad location for snow/road salt issues, if covers and panels are compromised.
GM really knows how to make a car last only until the warranty expires.
As other guys say the meter you need is called a megometer - or megger for short - the main difference between your ohm meter and a megger is the voltage applied to the insulation - your normal dmm only uses the 9 volt battery where the megger can apply various different voltages - in your case it called for application at 500 volts - the output of a megger is usually DC - generally when you use a megger for a maintenance test you use two times the operating voltage - the thing to remember about voltage is voltage is pressure - that's why your 9 volt battery will not show any bad insulation where the 500 volt range will show the insulation is shot - you might as well get you a megger and get schooled up on it because these high voltage motors and power systems on cars will require it - and one thing you MUST remember about meggers they apply whatever voltage to the wires you hook it up to - so make real sure there is no way to let the applied high voltage test reach the low voltage control wire - lots of electricians have blown up lots of controls by not isolating whatever they are testing - I am a retired master electrician/ power generation tech and used to manufacture custom control packages - so I have been working with meggers - power and control systems for decades - your a smart guy so get you a megger and learn how to use it - these high voltage cars will require it - I have a feeling as these cars age along with the self test programing they put in place - there will be lots of work finding high voltage insulation leaks - good luck
Hi Ivan just thinking outside the box, as far as i understand it the HT Battery is around 400 to 600 volts DC, on the back of the engine is a 3 phase starter generator, and connected to the drive shafts is a motor/generator, 3 phase, and the heart of the system really is the inverter, it has 2 leads coming in from the HT battery and 3 outputs of 3 phase HT, the 12v battery is charged from the HT one via an inverter 14 volt output, assuming the engine starts you would have to assume the generator on the engine is prob working, i just wondered is you could check the voltages here and there, if you put a 600 volt meter across the battery the voltage ought to go up when the engine is running, and you should get AC voltage on the 3 phase inverter leads etc, as i understand it the battery is made up of a lot of 3 or 5 volt cells all connected in series to make the voltage up, somtimes those cells go faulty some of them,, and i believe there air cooled with and air filter and electric fan system...so hope that helps a bit..Fred in Uk.
I think that you have found two things to check and monitor , the insulation to ground and the drain moisture level.
Should be useful to the owner. It might be that parking an a garage or under a shelter might help the owner.
Or they could make the decision to clear codes and trade in. If the drain plug was plastic you could add ( melt in) copper pins that could be tested with a 2 meg ohm insulation meter ?
That Topscan dongle will work on as many makes you want. Just need to Download all ones you want to be able to scan. I know some have had success on these Volts adding a Chassis Ground strap. If they do have problem again reach out to Isaac he is a EV trainer/Guru on these
Is turning on your location MANDATORY for everything light the ThinkDiag dongle?
@@frnkjones40 Topdon is generally a scammy company - if you try to resell one of their scanners, they will file a takedown accusing you of copyright fraud. Ask me how I know....
@@frnkjones40On Android, location has to be enabled to use Bluetooth, as the program could theoretically look for Bluetooth beacons at known locations, and deduce the location from that. Android 12 added a new permission to find nearby devices that some applications can use. If you could pair the device outside of the app, it might not need location, but that's the typical way these dongles are connected on Android. Apple does Bluetooth a different way, so the app probably doesn't need location.
@@johnhaller5851 I also have the OBD LINK MX+ dongle. Once It is setup it just works. No permissions needed. Location has nothing to do with its operation.
Ivan You need a special multimeter, which is a mega ohmeter because its a 400volt system. A normal ohmeter can't put out 400 volts so the insulation test wouldn't be accurate.
There are ways to test without high Voltage. Try a Megger brand. Up to 500 Volt. but very high resistance.
@tedmoss no matter the brand it is still called a mega ohmeter, and it works by injecting high voltage through the system and measuring resistance. I work on EVs daily and an insulation test is pretty common
WOW, thanks for another great video. I just went to Amazon and there was a $20 off coupon so I ordered it . I bought a 2017 Volt this summer and have been looking for a good scan tool, First year updates are free and next year I will pay the subscription fee. In Arizona cars do not rust out so my cars are older and the bidirectional control is very limited and I returned the expensive bidirectional unit I bought last year because I don't need to raise and lower the window in my Jeep with a scanner. I need to be able to work on the Volt when things go wrong because most of the dealers I have been to with my other vehicles over the last 40 years have proved to be greedy and totally incompetent. I found the factory shop manuals on eBay so now I am set.
I was wondering about the chassis ground since ts measuring the resistance to that point. And, seems like the weather wetness may have been affecting the setting of the codes. Bought the Topdon, based on your recommendation ,for myself and as a Christmas gift to my brother.
Clearing HVDC isolation faults to keep charging would be a road to an eventual battery fire if you don't find what causes the fault to pop up, assuming it wasn't just a calibration error. The fancy isolation meter is because resistance through insulation doesn't necessarily behave the same at 2-8V that a normal multi-meter puts out and 500-1000-2000V that an insulation tester uses to make sure the insulation is actually able to block high voltages. Anything under 300V can be blocked by a 0.05mm air gap, not much of an electrical insulation test.
I ordered one of those Topdon units this morning, and Amazon had a $20 coupon making it $60. Turns out the thing runs for free for one year then $50/year to update it. I'd imagine if you don't activate it upon receipt it gets a year after that is done, but will update this comment if different. Update: got module yesterday, setup was quick, scanned my '21 Ford Escape Titanium (with more modules than "Carter has liver pills") and all was good (as I expected). Printed report over WiFi for reference. Really a nice tool to keep in the glove box!
Yeah, I've just spotted that. Sneaky!
@@skysurferuk The update will be needed to scan newer 2024 cars, if you don;t update you will be able to scan all pre 2023 cars
I had this issue and the bulletin you mentioned addressed this issue.
A really good Fluke has some higher resistance ranges, Back in the early 90's I was an electrical tech.
This test is probably checking dielectric and insulation properties in the cavity and material, wire insulation, bushings, contact points. etc. I dealt with big equipment welders, motors, induction stuff.
Two ways to look for it ? Meters and equipment or what we call 'HIGH POT" careful with that one.
High pot would clear out all carbon and contaminants to ground but risk blowing out insulation as well.
Megging or a megger meter (Fluke) will also show these values.
With out all this input data being monitored by the PCM we would be seeing more of these things blazing like the crap in china (BYD).
Great vid and really enjoy watching you and Eric O. go in attack mode as I did back in the day.
Be careful spreading rumors. BYD is not the worst offender. Things are made to different standards for sale in the U.S. There are unlimited ways to fail, and generally only one way to succeed. (Ask Elon).
I'm really curious about the ground connections.
HybridBatteries do not connect to the Ground
The high voltage battery doesn't share ground with the low voltage (12 volt) battery. It's totally isolated. The car's built in isolation tests verify that isolation.
@gasauto1675 so they are isolated.? But Ivan's diagnosis did refer to check some ground and the desired resistance to ground. Module or system wiring then?
@@mikeafa1The isolation test measures impedance between the low voltage ground (the car's body) and the high voltage battery. It should be infinite in theory (extremely high in reality). The passenger has no electrocution risk as long as there is no closed circuit back to the high voltage battery.
You probably know this, but any EV/hybrid that requires a J72 connection, can take any interface that uses that standard. You may want to buy a J72-interface cord for future testing. They're not that expensive. Also, they often feature 220v charging as well if the car supports it.
Fyi the volt supports 240v ac charging which gives it about 4KWH charge rate to its 6kw battery. It doesn't support DC charging. But 240 will charge it in a few hours.
Also the proper way to disconnect the charger is from the car first. The trigger is a mechanical interlock which presses a button on the cars' connector telling it a charging device is attached. Within a few microseconds of the trigger releasing the voltage to the car is removed which safes the plug
Bedankt voor de informatie daar heb ik wat aan 🎉
Great video and diagnosis.
I see you didn’t trust that Molotov cocktail on wheels and charged it outside. 🤣🤣
gasoline can be a problem
Since you were able to charge it after deleting the codes.. Worse case scenario, the guy could just get a cheap scantool and delete the code every time he needs to charge. it's one more step, but at least you can still use your car. (I'm only 8mins in.. Lets see what happens)
I thought the same thing
@@jamesbizelli8568 He ended up advising the same thing by the end of the video. :)
Ivan and coffee. Life is good
1996 Nissan hardbody pickup, pretty much everything but the wheels has fallen off but it drives like a dream! Even 4x4 still works!
Ivan, pretty sure the dealer partially ran the update just for the HPCM2 but not for the BECM. 90% of the issues Ive seen in Volts not charging other than one if the cells going bad is due to the technician not paying attention when reading the TSB like you did.
Dealers simply hate the Volt because they bring almost nothing to their books due to their almost non existing maintenance. Average owners drive 1,500+ miles before needing to put any gas on them so oil changes are done mostly due to time than mileage, same with brakes and everything else.
The one thing that every owner reckons is the car only having 4 seats although being a hatchback it has a large volume to carry stuff #fitsinavolt
Great video, new subscriber rn!
Ivan, just to note if you plug in an EV unravel the power cable completely or it will over heat due to Eddy currents. Good to see you work on Evs. Keep up the good work. Greetings from UK.
I was thinking the same thing. But I don't have experience with EVs.
Is AC or DC going to the car after the power supply? For AC, yes, the cord being wrapped is effectively an inductor, and you'll waste some power and make heat because of that. If it's DC coming out, it's just creating a weak electromagnet.
Interesting point.
@@major__kong Pretty much has to be AC, most of the equipment is in the car. It is a low-level charger. I wouldn't worry about eddy currents though; do you worry about such things in your house wiring? Extension cords? (Welders don't use extension cords, that might be a problem there). I would think the resistance of the wire would heat it up more than eddy currents.
Very interesting. Would have been funny if the spool melted and shorted out...just stuff it back in the trunk like nothing happened xD
@@tedmoss A friend was wondering why his table saw was running slow. I pointed out that the extension cord was still coiled. After he uncoiled it, back to full speed. And it isn't eddy currents. Those are tiny, swirly currents on the surface. It's current in a wire loop acting like an inductor that's causing the problem. And, no, I don't worry about this in my house wiring. I didn't install the romex in a multiturn loop. Straight runs only 🙂
Brave man there Ivan… charging an EV ( with known battery problem!) overnight ( unattended) in your internal ( to your home) garage😳 or did it get relegated to outdoors👍
I moved it outdoors away from my garage and other cars so I could sleep at night LOL
I wish these sellers of scanners were more helpful .Only days ago I brought a launch cre123e .I wasn't happy so I brought a Topdon Arti 600 Still mot happy.Great video..
I have the TopDon you provided on the Black Friday sale, I also have a few others that i"ve used. I've also had the dealer do some non standard stuff like torque the wheels with impact and not know what the fluid interval is on a 6 figure car. Great to find alternatives that work. As I've seen in Eastern Europe and Cuba it takes street smarts to figure it out and make it work. As my grandfather who drove big rigs through the siberia said you got to keep on moving..one way or another.
"I've also had the dealer do some non standard stuff like torque the wheels with impact" With torque rods this is perfectly fine, impact without a torque rod rated for that lug's torque and that's a recipe for warped rotors or worse.
My opinion, I would mention start with getting a better wall charger that suits his charging needs, and unplug when finished charging and parked for periods at a time after a test. Test to see how much battery charge you loose after parking for a week if possible off the charger, and document it. If it's enough to where you can do a two days without charging, it would be better on the life of the battery over charging every day. Do a safe couple of discharge and recharges to recondition the batteries as well. Just and idea.
Heavy EV's make great paper weights for the owners large stack of inevitable repair invoices and diagnostic reports...but that's about all they're good for😁👍
They're also incredibly "good" for propaganda.
Except a Tesla.
@@tedmoss I'm curious about the total cost of Tesla ownership over let's say 20 years vs a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry... And you have to add $100/hr you waste at charging stations too ;)
@@tedmoss Tesla's are probably the biggest waste of space and resources on the planet🤣👎
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Charge at home. It takes ten seconds to plug in, and you'll pay a quarter of what you used to pay for gas.
Hybrids like this Volt were an OK compromise, but nowadays you don't need to drag around a whole redundant power train, or maintaining or fixing it. The Japanese are pushing them, because the have years of experience but they're years behind in EVs.
Good morning brother, thanks for improving my Saturday
Thank you for tuning in! Happy Saturday!
I see these around for under 5k running fine at 200k miles. They seem like a good alternative to a Prius.
The EV revolution is over!, the EV nightmare continues
Cool Video... I have a Launch Scanner and I enjoy how powerful it is... It's amazing what you can do with mid-range scanners. I paid about $500 for my Launch and haven't found anything it can't do. A little learning curve to find the system you want but well worth the $$$. Thanks for your determination... Even if the dealer would of changed EV Battery, nothing to say they still wouldn't have that code pop up. I'm an IT Guy by trade and have a true love for cars, so sometimes MAGIC and LUCK work together and provide a magical success when it comes to computer problems and or fault codes... Just found your channel by accident - Subscribed and commented... Have a Great Day!
Buy EVs they said. It will be fun they said 😅. I'll reserve my EV comments for later. Glad you tossed in Topdon topscan! Used mine for the first time yesterday on a VW. Thanks again for suggesting!!
Ivan this is actually why I ended up putting the Launch Software on my old phone in the first place(a: to see if it would work on a mobile & b: to see if the car was still able to be driven "as per normal" with a "dead" HV Battery) but this was for Hybrid Camrys with failing Batteries(replace Hybrid Battery Pack) fault.
When you try to keep the cars in "EV MODE" with more drain(current draw with limited Battery capacity) they would throw a Pending code, then a current code soon thereafter which would start the Engine & keep it at around 2500rpm, so for the Customer being able to clear that themselves & keep driving the Car "appropriately" for the Condition of the Battery was worth it for me to not have them Return constantly to clear the codes.
I purchased one of those Topdon dongles on your recommendation during Black Friday. Looks like a great tool.
The EV guys are like, "But my battery degradation is barely noticeable."
Little do they know how much is actually going on in each of those battery modules. They'll pay the price eventually. I don't like buying gasoline, either, but what I really do not like is buying a used $20,000 electric car with a reasonable risk of needing an $18,000 battery replacement in the near future. I spent $4,750 on my 09 Suzuki SX4 in 2017. Powertrain-wise, all I "needed" to do was replace the catalyst (or the resistor/capacitor trick), deal with a stiff shifter bushing 2x, replace the serpentine belt 3x (long story there), change the oil every now and then, and I threw in some new spark plugs because I think the original iridium plugs were still in it, though they appeared good. I also had one exhaust donut gasket fall apart. A heat shield on the catalyst started rattling and I had to deal with that.
If the engine dies, I can get another from a salvage yard for $1,500 or so and after 1 weekend of work, I am back on the road. I would REALLY prefer that I could do this with an electric car, too, but it surely doesn't look like it is going to happen any time.
My neighbour has 2014 Lexus RX450H that sometimes throws a code from the hybrid battery pack performance/voltage. After that happens the hybrid electric system and cruise control etc is disabled. I checked and my Thinktool Pros shows all individual battery cell voltages. All of them are equal so maybe one pack dips too low sometimes and throws the code or something like that. I gave him some cheap code scanner that he can erase the code and the car works perfectly again. He has driven the car for like a year after that and it still works the same.
The testing I've seen commented with Megger type testing sounds right to me because of the nature of high voltage AC testing. Megger tests are commonly done on large switchgear and transformer type testing etc. Also the old school megger type meters had a hand crank on the side which has inherently a way to alter frequency and amplitude in relation to your hand movement. You would visibly track the analog needle and you turn the crank and note your findings. The tool is definitively not your average radio shack DMM.
Not sure if you're reading comments, but I have this same issue on my 2012 volt. I too came to the conclusion that the easiest fix is having a code reader handy to reset when this happens, but I've been unlucky trying to locate one that will reset this code. Is there a code reader you would recommend?
It might be a good idea to unloop the charging cable while unattended during overnight charge.
Is this a good quality wall charger??
I used to repair laptops and PC's for a living and you couldn't believe the amount of times people would drop off their laptop without the charging cord. Then I'd have people dropping their PC's off with the power cord. I would sometimes forget to give the cord back to them and they would be kinda mad when they'd have to drive back up to the shop to pick their power cord up. If you leave a keyfob in the car when you leave, it will chirp the horn to let you know your car or truck is in "Steal me mode".
We get vehicles here for a tire rotation, and the wheel lock key is nowhere to be found. After playing hide and seek, ask the customer and they have the key at home. Friggin idiots.
Really good listening to your diagnosis procedures and rationale,,,,A+ thank you🙏
"Always beeps when you do that.. I don't know why." It's trying to warn the driver that they left their kayfabe in the car. Very nice video btw. I have a 2013 that I bought new.
1,000th comment, yay! Great video and I admire your tenacity. Like Hercule Poirot following the clues and explaining for the benefit of the assembled audience.
It was the dealer technician taking too long leading to the dealer manager trying to get more money in to support his failing shop by ripping off customer.
Did you try drying the vehicle out (ie)heat the garage up to make sure it is moisture related ?
Maybe I'm just old fashioned but I don't see myself wanting to work on these hybrids and EVs. I appreciate your content though, good thought process. Even the dealership quote reveals the difficulty in assessing what's wrong with that car.
ivan you did a great job getting the car to charge i checked the specs and what i found 70 miles is new spec for the battery the owner should be thrilled he can still use the ev portion of the car
it's a Gen 1 Volt. they were rated for 38 miles of range brand new. the Gen 2 Volts were rated for 52. you might be thinking of the Gen 1 Nissan Leaf which was rated for 75-ish miles and didn't have the gas range extender to fall back on.
I bought a 2017 Chevy Bolt a while ago. Has 80,000 miles on it now. Love the car. But, when I first got it, wouldn’t level 1 charge. Turns out, best as I can tell, a dog (or something) chewed the low level charge cord and shorted it out, then shorted out about 4000$ worth of electronics in the car. I think the PO traded it in and hadn’t told anyone. Anyway, bought it from a Lithia dealership and they honored the 100% warranty, and had the whole thing repaired (by a separate Chevy dealership) at no cost to me. I get that it’s a second gen technology. The car now has a brand new battery, also part of the recall the cars had a few years ago, so I have 9 years warranty on that. Anyway, I am a long time mechanic and love cars. This is one of my favorite cars of all, but am also aware of the new tech and some of the pitfalls it may have. Drove it 160 miles round trip to the airport last night to pick up a relative for a visit and cost me about 3$. I estimate when I charge at home (which is all I do really), costs me 3 cents a mile to drive vs. my F350 at 45 cents a mile. All good! I’m happy with the car.
They're OK when "new"...post an update after 10 years and 180k miles :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics oh I agree… it’s a basically brand new tech, so time will definitely tell. The good thing is, I have almost no money into this thing with some motorcycle wheeling and dealing, and a rebate, and a tax break, so if it goes bad, I’m not out much. Sure do like it tho and, it’s mostly made and designed in Korea so I think it’s really good quality. GM has done a good job with the Bolt.
That TopDon is awesome. I bought one a couple of months ago to have around the house. A lot of bi directional power for a low price.
I think that's a perfect work around Good job.
are you able to clear the "secured high voltage dtc's" with that topdon scan tool? Those codes are a bit deeper into the system, if so thats VERY cool.