Chevy Volt Battery Pack Disassembly and Reuse | Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- I got a Chevy Volt Battery Pack and start taking it apart. I'm using a couple of sections of it to reuse for a different EV project.
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I got this battery pack as one pulled out of a car by a local full-service independent auto shop. One of the segments of the battery pack is bad, but the rest are all fine.
I go through step-by-step of taking it apart and then rebuilding a smaller pack from it.
Part 2 video can be seen at: • Chevy Volt Battery Pac...
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There junk
Do you sell the end of the battery where the connector ends are? I need that assembly
I had no idea that the Chevy batteries were so modular.
It looks like I could repower my golf cart very easily with these. Of course me thinking that would be the first step to a burned to the ground golf cart. I have no idea what I'm doing...lol
If I got multiple of these. Could I add more to these to make a custom longer range pack? I'm just starring to look into building a custom one off EV swap.
they made the housing bolts 10 mm to prevent people from having that socket on hand to open the case and exposing themselves to high voltage.
Thank you! Just found a 2012 Volt for $2500 CAD near me… and started dreaming 😂
Is the electric tractor project still ongoing? I'm planning on starting something similar soon. Did you ever get it rolling under electric power?
I wonder if the Chevy Bolt and Bolt EUVs will have third-party companies that can offer some type of repair/replacement pack when those vehicles get old and the batteries start to die?
Very interesting! Thank for sharing. I enjoyed watching all through. I have been thinking of finding ways to upgrade my volt battery from 16kwh to whatever is possible. Your video helped me to give it a try in future. Let me know your take on this venture of upgrading batteries for a better range in old evs.
Do you know where are the battery temperature sensors are located on the 2012 Chevy volt??
Great break down video.
Thanks!
Based on your experience with the pack, does it look serviceable? Say if someone wanted to replace a failed section or replace a temperature sensor?
what's a ballpark price for a used pack like this? Also, i think i missed what this is going into, hoping the next video comes quickly so my curiosity can be placated LOL
Thanks for your vids Ben, i always learns something
Next video will be up tomorrow.
For this, I paid $850, but that isn't necessarily what somebody else will pay. This pack is older and specifically one section of the pack is bad, that's why it was removed from the vehicle it was in. It's also one of those "It's not what you know, it's who you know" kind of a situation. I got this directly from an independent, full-service garage that was doing a pack swap, and a friend of mine (who is very well connected in local hybrid and EV circles) let me know about it and had it held for me.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Thanks for the clear answer :)
Gen 1 has 111kW motor. At 360V, isn’t that about 308 amps at full throttle? That’s seems large. Am I missing something? (P=IV; 1kW=1000W; 1W=1V*1A)
Just curious because you mentioned the cables being light weight.
Im looking at a 2012 chevy volt and the guy says the battery is getting 21miles per charge how do i raise it back to original numbers?
Would be awesome if someone started doing this with the gen 2 Volts eventually. I still have plenty of life in mine but paying a few grand for a refreshed battery vs. tens of thousands on a new PHEV, I'd rather just refreshing my battery when it comes time.
From what I've read, those numerous coolant seals between each battery slice have proven problematic, with so many places to leak coolant, which happens.
thanks for sharing! greate video!
Yeah, wouldn't use these things. My brother lost a car doing so. This piece of crap caught on fire and burnt the car to the ground.
Many electrical meters are only rated for 300V or less, and may blow up in your face if put on say.. a 360VDC battery. Use extreme caution.
This is a really great video. I was thinking about tackling this on my own. I really appreciate that you shared this. I have a question how I go about testing the individual cells to see which children cells are bad so I can slightly rebuild my battery is that something that individual can do I do have mechanical background.
But how are you going to get 48 volts instead of 44? Want all your equipment say low battery? Even though it's up?
Add 2 more cells to each 44v stack will bring you closer to your 48v, 19 cells...
1:35 min What is a Tech Bit?! Googled it, didn‘t find any real answer🧐
Torx.
Im looking at using one of these packs for an electric corvair swap, and this is exactly whay I needed to see.
I wasnt able to reuse the contactors as I couldnt remove them off the circuit board without the pins coming out of the contactors. Was able to reuse a lot of the bus bar wiring. I like to recycle wherever possible
Wish I could get some spare cells for my Holden volt here in Australia which is like impossible
Nice!
Anybody imaged replacing the Chevy Volt’s 18.4-kWh battery with a repackaged Tesla Cells groups = 103.0 kWh in the Chevy Volts Battery well / enclosure as it appears a Tesla Model S *103.0 kWh package of cell groups if restacked appropriately may actually fit in volume of space the Volts T shaped enclosure provides. Surly it appears posable approximating the cubic inches of volume Chevy provided for “there bulky 18.4KWh package is very nearly the displacement of Tesla’s cell groups if reconfigured.
This is why I am here. Looking for anyone, and I mean anyone, that has remade modules for a volt from newer/different batteries.
@@danielbaggett6183same!
Not a fan of the coolant design. Essentially it’s cooling the end of each cell only. With the lines already running down the side of the pack, it seems more logical to have designed it to touch each cell from there. Regardless, thanks for sharing the teardown, always great stuff on this channel👍🏻
In the part 2 video, we'll show how the coolant DOES cross the full surface of every cell!
@@BenjaminNelsonX well look at the brain on you😆 awesome man, looking forward to it👍🏻
What’s the torque values for the threaded rod?
Good job, bro!
dont u have a volt hows it going i got one recently
am I the only one that bothers how puffed they are after unbolting them ?
So where is part 2☹️
Just doing a simple search on my channel will show you. Here is a direct link to it for your convenience.
ruclips.net/video/ZsPA19P-K-0/видео.html
Do you want to get rid of that module in the front of the pack? It's looking like my 2011 volt has a bad battery heater and its mounted to that module.
I have a whole front arrangement with the heater and connections I can sell you. I used the battery packs for a solar project. Message me your email and i can send photos
@@nextdimensions thanks for the offer but I have already found one on ebay and installed it.
I did this a few years ago Ben. Used ti to power my house. Major pain in @#@ to rework the cell's.
The big down-side of these cells is that you can only bust them down to 44V or 22V sections at the smallest.
I liked working with Nissan Leaf cell modules, because they were in that handy 8.4V tin can. Nice size and shape. Easy to use for projects.
Which BMS did you use for your household backup with the Volt modules?
Yes the cell tabs cant be split. I broke the pack down into 14S setup. lots of work with cutting disk. I used a QUCC BMS with contactor. I still have the volt battery not being used. Using Narada 80 cells now 2 400 ah packs with QUCC BMS.
Hi Ben
Why was one pack only 22 volts or does that mean the 44 volt pack are two 22 volt packs put together.
Steve
It just has to do with the size of the space in the pack, and making it so that the total number of cells in series is appropriate for the motor system.
No, the 44V blocks are NOT just a pair of 22V blocks. If they were, we could break the battery down further, making it easier to use for odd-voltage projects.
At the top of each section of the battery, the tab terminals of individual cells are welded together, there's a plastic cover over the whole thing, and only a real terminal for a cable or bus bar at the end of the entire unit.
Thanks for the reply mate.
Ben sorry ask
How Many BMS connectors are on the battery. 11? So each battery would be 28v. I am confused with the 22v, unless you have two 22v batteries welded together.
Steve
Thank you 🙏
Is it gen1 or gen2 pack?
Gen 1.
I'm surprised at how many molded and stamped parts make up these batteries. This seems like it would be really expensive to manufacture.
You may want to save some of those modules for your volt. Seems more and more older Volts batteries are beginning to fail.
I think that would be people running them too low.
Chevy bolt battery pack good for camp fires.
HELP MY BOLT NEEDS A NEW BATTERY SND THE DEALER WANTS $28K TO FIX IT, MY EV ONLY HAS 70K MILES WTF
IS THIS STILL A VALUABLE???
Why isn’t it covered by the warranty.
SPEK UP LIBROLE GOBBLESS
What year is your car?
Every Bolt will get a new battery for free plus another 8 year 100,000 mile warranty. For free. What dealer did you go to ? Someone told you wrong.
Why is it you wouldn't use a power tool to tighten the bus bar connection, but its okay for it to remove them? Is it a over torquing issue? That would potentially cause damage to the cell? I guess you'd be using a non-conductive hand tool to tighten it?
Power tools are a great way to make trouble far quicker than you could by hand!
If you use power tools to tighten, you have no control over the torque, and CAN over-tighten.
Another thing specific to bus-bars is that if you are inserting a bolt through one side of a short bus bar, and tighten it with a power tool, you can accidentally spin the whole bus-bar around. That's a great way to accidentally hit another terminal and cause a short circuit!
Yes, in general, when working with batteries, use insulated tools.
Also VERY easy to cross-thread a bolt with a power driver. Would want to at least hand start at a minimum.