Good call on the Wham Bam flex bed. My CR10s Pro V2 is finally coming this week. First thing is to install the wham bam. ASA is probably better for printing the fan ducts. I will let you know :-) I am hoping that I am getting the bed leveling right. I will follow your videos :-) Keep up the good work mate! Greetings from Brisbane, AU
The fan upgrade was huge for me. Same situation. Living room. So loud trying to watch shows and such. I wanna look into replacing the hot end fans too. They are still pretty loud and whine a lot. Interesting thing with the build plate. I've read everywhere people having problems with the prints sticking. I couldn't get anything to stick not matter how much I Leveled. Painter's tape is perfect adhesion in my experience. I'm building an enclosure I found on thingiverse then next will be setting up Octoprint. Keep up the great vids. I look forward to seeing that completed Iron Man!
When my prints don‘t stick to the bed, I change my Z offset and lower the nozzle a bit. Then I have a really nice first layer and no problems at all. When the nozzle is too high it does not stick.
I had the same and solved it, in the settings use Brim, do the first few layers slow speed 10, big fan at 70 and only full after 5mm up, i think its cooling the first layers to fast, it should do it slow relaxed let the fluid go
Hi Anton, thanks for your Videos, I have the same Model like you for one Month now. I replaced also the Fans, now I want to Replace one Hot end Fan from elm Pabst 414F or micronel f40mm-24GK-9. I haven't found a silent 24v blower fan yet and I don't want to use a buck converter. I have to Level my Z-Axis every time I turn on my Printer, so I want to upgrade ist with T8 Anti Backslash nuts Is this an issue for you?. I also had trouble with the PTFE tube ans Stuck filaments, I'm now using the cheapest Amazon PTFE tube and don't have any issues anymore. The cooling Fan mount is not an issue for me. For removing my prints I use a painting knife. It's quite thin an its easy to get it under the print in one corner and then the print gets loose easily. The original tool to remove prints does not work for me. The biggest problem I have with octoprint is that I cannot use it with auto Bed levelling. I destroyed my bed two times when the nozzle got into the Print bed. turning off autoleveling, everything works fine.
I don’t experience the Z axis issue which you mentioned. For octoprint you need to chmage the start gcode to have the auto bed level command run initially. I think it’s Code G29?(you might wanna check that) hope that helps and good luck printing!
I have not updated my firmware. The current firmware works fine for me and there’s no features that I feel are missing. Until I’m convinced there’s SO many great features I’m missing, I don’t plan on recommending updating firmwares. That’s my view
I haven't checked the air flow but the slower speed of the fans doesn't necessarily mean they push less air. I have several Noctua fans in my computer and they move more air at slower speed than some other fans at higher speed and the Noctuas are much quieter.
Hi anton, did you experience any problems with octoprint when using with this printer. I have the same printer its brilliant. But once setup with octoprint I ran into problems.. I've found that adding G29 in start gcode fixed my issue. But some people did not need to add this and dont seem to have the problem. And its really confusing me as to what I'm doing differently.
I did have issues printing with octoprint. My solution for it all was very simple. Print from local SD card as I did before, and utilize octoprint simply for monitoring
@@AntonsCreations I agree, I prefer sd card myself. Octoprint has so many issues. And like you I only like for monitoring. One thing I did really hope to get it working for however was octolapse as it has the functionally to control a camera and move to xyz for each layer or a defined amount of layers. Good videos boy. Keep them up!
You can use a respberry by for TONS of things, currently I use it just for octoprint which has addons that allow me to do all sorts of things with my printer
I’m very surprised to hear you say that, which part of it did not fit for you? (You need to take off the fan cover to install it) what material did you print it out of?
@@AntonsCreations the lower half of the shroud that has the inside bracket. i am aware i have to remove the old shroud. it kept the bottom half from closing all the way as it seemed to be a hair too thick. i printed in esun pla plus for thermal resistance (its rated higher temps than regular pla, and is more durable). i used .2 resolution which may have made the part a hair too thick. i reprinted the part at .1 resolution in flat orientation and i noticed that the angle of the inside bracket was a bit steeper making it thinner. i will try to install that one when i get back home. in the comments people had mixed results on thingiverse using that fan shroud on the v2 as well. my bet is that using a higher resolution makes it a tad bit closer to in spec.
@@AntonsCreations the cables snapped off the fan. i tried to disassemble it to solder it back on and also broke the fan. know where i can get a replacement?
I got the creality magnetic heat bed which is excellent and makes removing prints from my CR10SPro v2 so simple.
Good call on the Wham Bam flex bed. My CR10s Pro V2 is finally coming this week. First thing is to install the wham bam. ASA is probably better for printing the fan ducts. I will let you know :-)
I am hoping that I am getting the bed leveling right. I will follow your videos :-)
Keep up the good work mate! Greetings from Brisbane, AU
The fan upgrade was huge for me. Same situation. Living room. So loud trying to watch shows and such. I wanna look into replacing the hot end fans too. They are still pretty loud and whine a lot.
Interesting thing with the build plate. I've read everywhere people having problems with the prints sticking. I couldn't get anything to stick not matter how much I Leveled. Painter's tape is perfect adhesion in my experience.
I'm building an enclosure I found on thingiverse then next will be setting up Octoprint.
Keep up the great vids. I look forward to seeing that completed Iron Man!
Glad to hear the vids are of some help! And yes! Loveee and highly recommend the much quieter fans for sure
When my prints don‘t stick to the bed, I change my Z offset and lower the nozzle a bit. Then I have a really nice first layer and no problems at all. When the nozzle is too high it does not stick.
I had the same and solved it, in the settings use Brim, do the first few layers slow speed 10, big fan at 70 and only full after 5mm up, i think its cooling the first layers to fast, it should do it slow relaxed let the fluid go
Why not just get the creality camera? You can make adjustment to the printer remotely. Asking cause I'm looking at it.
it may be the solution for you, I liked the octoprint way as i can do even more customization and control with it if i so decided.
Hi Anton,
thanks for your Videos, I have the same Model like you for one Month now.
I replaced also the Fans, now I want to Replace one Hot end Fan from elm Pabst 414F or micronel f40mm-24GK-9. I haven't found a silent 24v blower fan yet and I don't want to use a buck converter.
I have to Level my Z-Axis every time I turn on my Printer, so I want to upgrade ist with T8 Anti Backslash nuts Is this an issue for you?. I also had trouble with the PTFE tube ans Stuck filaments, I'm now using the cheapest Amazon PTFE tube and don't have any issues anymore. The cooling Fan mount is not an issue for me. For removing my prints I use a painting knife. It's quite thin an its easy to get it under the print in one corner and then the print gets loose easily. The original tool to remove prints does not work for me.
The biggest problem I have with octoprint is that I cannot use it with auto Bed levelling. I destroyed my bed two times when the nozzle got into the Print bed. turning off autoleveling, everything works fine.
I don’t experience the Z axis issue which you mentioned. For octoprint you need to chmage the start gcode to have the auto bed level command run initially. I think it’s Code G29?(you might wanna check that) hope that helps and good luck printing!
@@AntonsCreations Thanks, I will try it out
Anton, Great Videos. My question is, have you updated the firmware with TinyMachines firmware? And what is your opinion on it?
I have not updated my firmware. The current firmware works fine for me and there’s no features that I feel are missing. Until I’m convinced there’s SO many great features I’m missing, I don’t plan on recommending updating firmwares. That’s my view
Great tips. Thanks!
Do you have a link to Noctua fan mount?
Yes, it’s in the description
I couldn't find it. I'll look again when I get home.
Noctua fans move the half of the air, if you install them and you enclosure the printer, probably you will blow out the electronics. Regards.
I haven't checked the air flow but the slower speed of the fans doesn't necessarily mean they push less air. I have several Noctua fans in my computer and they move more air at slower speed than some other fans at higher speed and the Noctuas are much quieter.
@@667Gurba same diameter, half speed = half flow
You've missed the most important mod... linking threaded rods with belt.
Hi anton, did you experience any problems with octoprint when using with this printer. I have the same printer its brilliant. But once setup with octoprint I ran into problems..
I've found that adding G29 in start gcode fixed my issue. But some people did not need to add this and dont seem to have the problem. And its really confusing me as to what I'm doing differently.
I did have issues printing with octoprint. My solution for it all was very simple. Print from local SD card as I did before, and utilize octoprint simply for monitoring
@@AntonsCreations I agree, I prefer sd card myself. Octoprint has so many issues. And like you I only like for monitoring. One thing I did really hope to get it working for however was octolapse as it has the functionally to control a camera and move to xyz for each layer or a defined amount of layers. Good videos boy. Keep them up!
hey anton the fan file in Thingiverse is not working. which other do you recommend or is there anyway you can share the one u got..thnaks
Is the raspberry pi just for Octo print?
You can use a respberry by for TONS of things, currently I use it just for octoprint which has addons that allow me to do all sorts of things with my printer
I printed the fan shroud and it dosent fit right. i dont recommend this for the v2!
I’m very surprised to hear you say that, which part of it did not fit for you? (You need to take off the fan cover to install it) what material did you print it out of?
Use file V4. For your 10S pro V2. Might need to sand a bit but it worked for me
@@AntonsCreations the lower half of the shroud that has the inside bracket. i am aware i have to remove the old shroud. it kept the bottom half from closing all the way as it seemed to be a hair too thick. i printed in esun pla plus for thermal resistance (its rated higher temps than regular pla, and is more durable). i used .2 resolution which may have made the part a hair too thick. i reprinted the part at .1 resolution in flat orientation and i noticed that the angle of the inside bracket was a bit steeper making it thinner. i will try to install that one when i get back home. in the comments people had mixed results on thingiverse using that fan shroud on the v2 as well. my bet is that using a higher resolution makes it a tad bit closer to in spec.
mastav gotcha! Hope you get it to work!
@@AntonsCreations the cables snapped off the fan. i tried to disassemble it to solder it back on and also broke the fan. know where i can get a replacement?
Hey can you hook me up with that ironman build file
Use this link and apply code APSK20 for a 20% discount!
store.do3d.com/158555/11951 the Ironman suit is the MK85