Creality CR10S Pro Review | Is It The Best 3D Printer in 2020 ? | After 1000 + Hours !!!
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this review of the Creality CR10S Pro V2 3D Printer, I detail what has changed since using this 3D Printer for over 1000 hours. Is it possibly the best 3D Printer in 2020? See this video and find out what breaks and lasts after me printing on it for over 3 months.
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After unboxing my Creality cr 10s pro v2, I put it immediately to work non-stop resulting in over 1000 hours of 3d printing. In this video I debate if this is the best 3d printer in 2020. I have not done that many cr 10s pro upgrades as many things have not broken and fixes were not needed!. If you are looking into purchasing a 3d printer, the creality cr 10s pro v2 may be just the best 3d printer you can get in 2020. I hope by the end of this Creality cr10s pro review, you see what i have 3d printed and determine if the best 3d printer in 2020 is the cr 10s pro or potentially a more budget friendly ender 3
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Ender 3
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Artillery Sidewinder-X1
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CR10S Pro V2
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CR10S MAX
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Ender 5 Plus
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CR10
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Filament I Like
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.6mm Nozzle for CR10S Pro
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Fan Duct Replacement
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Thank you for the review. Very helpful.
The music was too loud, couldn't hear you clearly.
Glad it was of help. Have definitely made sure to balance future vidoes audio😅sorry about this one
There is a filament spool spindle on thingiverse that lets the spool ride on ball bearings instead of grinding on plastic. The part is for an ender but fits perfectly on the CR10s Pro. It uses the same locknut to hold it in place as the stock spindle. The filament spool rolls easily and the filament makes a rounder curve going into the runout sensor. No idler wheel needed.
Just got one of these yesterday, thanks for the heads up on the filement! I had a break overnight and wasn't sure why.
You got it! Good luck on your creations man!
Nice to how far you’ve come I remember watching your first video you were so happy. I have the same printer, and here’s a tip just in case you didn’t know. The Wham Bam.PEX which is what I have, there’s a few things you can do to help with your adhesion issues. First make sure you invest in 000 steel wool. alcohol, and take the build plate off the bed, and be liberal with the alcohol. Start make small circles all over the board, dry and repeat, that should help you with your adhesion issues. Peter has done some great videos on this, he’s the owner of Wham Bam.
I wish you all the best brother good luck,
dude, thank you so much! I definitely needed those tips. Will try them out!
I'm new to this channel, because I'm currently looking at getting a cr10s v2, mainly because of your videos.
Just a heads up, idk of it's the speaker I'm using but the background noise is to loud on this video, compared to your other videos.
Noted. Thanks for that tip!
Hello Anton, I’m your new fan here I watched all of your videos and I ordered my new CR-10s pro V2. I have question about the wham bam plate, what size did you order is it 300x300 or 310x310, because in their website they says don’t depend on the volume size customers should measure their bed length manually. Regards and keep it up we love you!
Great to hear you enjoying the content! I ordered the 320x310 size for my CR10S Pro. And it fits perfectly! Keep in mind, if you’re just starting out - getting bed adhesion on it will be tricky to learn and you might want to wait to install it after several prints to get a grasp on 3D printing and calibrating your printer. Cheers!
I bought the new.did the firmware update,and went crazy,and gouged the bed,messed up my new swiss micro hotend.I hope I just got a bad one.The replacement is in the mail.Fingers crossed.
great Job, I thinking of upgrading. This might do the job. What is the source for the removable bed? I was leaning towards the Prusa since it comes with a removable bed.
the bed is a whambam heres is a link to their store. whambamsystems.com
Hi Hamps Steven, I'm looking to buy a 3D printer, I was wondering which one you picked? I don't know between the prussa Mk3S and the CR-10S Pro V2, since it is really cheaper. Thanks!
Wow, excellent review video. Thank you! I was wondering, what was the total height of the 3D printer with the spool, I have 30 inches of clearance on my shelf, is it enough?
I have one. With the spool, the overall height is 33.5 inches.
Thank you, for your insights :) coul'd someone elaborate why it is not cos't effective?
Is it good? Should I buy ender 5 plus or that plss say honest
I would ask what type of prints you’d like to do and what is your budget, I have not printed on a ended 5 plus so I can’t say honestly about that printer. But I do know the 10s pro is a great model I can honestly recommend to anyone
@@AntonsCreations I want print like u print hobby stuf
Then get my model! Cr10s Pro v2 is great :)
what length is the printer with the bed all the way to the rear?
also please update the title of the video because v2 is missing.
Awesome
Mysterio 3D thanks!
I would like to see a Texas size filament put to the test.
what would you define as "Texas Size" Hahaha. love the idea though!
@@AntonsCreations I’m sorry, zyltech makes a 11b filament spool.
I just bought the V2 of this model for 400$ (365€) tax included. It is crazy how cheap they get after a while and how occasionally you get a really good bargain on them
Do you have a discord community?
Yes the link is in the description
I am new to 3d printing.Eventually I will have to do a firmware update on this one to reach higher temps.After a firmware update.How do you reinstall your settings?
i want to get this printer but theres not much videos about it, can the dual extruder be changed to print everything, including ninja flex?
Do you happen to know a good site or model for a 3.5 inch screen replacement for one of these?
you have the plate cool down for easy remove
I think the cr10s pro v2 is not the best printer , but a good one.
The bltouch is a good upgrade because the sensor on the v1 is very variable , where the bltouch makes the correct z offset each and every time.
I own both the cr10s pro with bltouch and now a ender 5 plus which both have more or less the same build area.
The ender 5 plus gives a little bit better results after a few upgrades , but compared to the cr10s pro is a really big beast .
Great analysis! I think both the ended 5 and CR10S pro have their own pros and cons. To decide between them, I would ask what are you trying to accomplish and 3D print? Depending on that, a certain model will slightly address it better than the other. However, whichever you choose, both are great 3d printer choices
Hi, i'm tinkering between cr 10s pro v2 and ender 5 plus for my first 3d printer. It seems that 10s come more refined package (better power supply, better tube, more metal parts etc), but i do find system on 5 plus with double support, fixed bed and all that more "natural". Also, with more diving into reviews etc, to me it looks like 10s do have better overall results (compared to stock 5 plus), specially when working with utp etc, which is liitle different from your view. Only wish 10s would come with glass bed, i see a lot of heavy sticking on that plate.
So in summary, for somewhat some money, i can can get both model (new), with difference, that i need upgrade 5 plus with lets say 100-200€ more, to be same as cr10 (I have alternative, to get 5 plus second hand, but it seem it much bigger thing). what are suggestions from 1st hand experiences? thnx
@@izoyt O.K , First don't get the CR10s Pro V1,the Bltouch is a really important upgrade to the CR10s pro.
POWER SUPPLY - The cr10s pro and the Ender 5 plus both have the same power supply and I do mean the exact same power supply a 500watt meanwell . NOW .
GLASS BED - My V1 came with a aluminium bed and buildtek sheet , not sure about the V2 , but the Ender 5 plus does have a glass bed , and I've added a glass bed to my cr10s pro which is better than them buildtek sheets.
( Before I printed two 10mm strips and used a 300mm X 300mm mirror. )
The problem with the Ender 5 plus is the main board not being silent , BUT if you swap out the main board for the silent version and fit capricorn tubes that should be the place to start my compare ?.
Now with the board swap you have what the plus it should have been !!!!!!
Not sure if this is a big point to you is the size ? , I don't mean print volume I mean floor space , the cr10s pro is much smaller but the bed extends out of the back , The ender 5 plus is a set size , but much much bigger like a mini washing machine.
WHICH IS BETTER - it all depend !!! if you want everything to be right form the start the CR10s pro MAY be the way to go ( my CR10s pro had to re built to get it to print correctly , but the Ender 5 worked out of the box , but very very loud , so that is a should be ) , if you take the time to upgrade it , the Ender 5 plus is much better.
The ender 5 will print much faster and get the same quality. The default profile for the pro is 50m/s and 80m/s for the plus , tried to push the plus to its limit with insane amounts of speed, acceleration and jerk which the CR10s pro could never do having to move that heavy bed about, instead of just the head and stepper motor.
The upgraded Ender 5 plus is my main machine and the cr10s pro V1/2 is my backup printer.
I think you will be happy with both printers , the cr10s pro was my main printer for a year and now the ender 5 as taken over that job.
1 SILLY POINT .. The Pro is built on the control box so it is more or less fixed , But with the Ender 5 plus if you like upgrading thing , because the Ender 5 plus is just a big frame you COULD extend the size , X , Y or Z , you can do more with it !!!
"to me it looks like 10s do have better overall results (compared to stock 5 plus)" , Yes but who as a stock 5 plus ? , and after I would say at 30m/s (slow) I'm not sure which is the best the Pro or the Plus ?
I think the plus may just have the edge if the extruder is dialled in correct !! , But I'm thinking back for my Ender 5 plus is direct drive and the cr10s pro is the default extruder and hot end.
@@peteradshead2383 Hi, thank you for this great round-up!
first, power: are you sure both come with meanwell? i see many reports later 5 pluses comes with cheaper and weaker power supply. Is there a way to check this without disassembly the unit?
bed: so, 5 plus comes with glass bed stock? nice to hear that. yes, also for cs10s pro v2 you can get glass bed, i think, so maybe this is not main problem..
board: yes, for sure, i would prefer silent stepper motor board, just not sure about availability now here in eu and for what price. as i said, 5 plus needs a lot of upgrades, to get more balanced printer.
speed: yes, speed matters, if 5 plus is noticeably quicker, that's fro sure some big advantage.
quality of prints: so you say quality is same, when plus is upgraded? nice to know that. do you print various fillers, how that's working on plus, can pc and abs be printed normally? was thinking to build also come acrylic box for ot, if needed.
Hmm, will must revaluated the two. thnx again.
@@izoyt I think the PSUs are the other way around the first lot of ender 5 plus had yangping or some sort of unknown PSU, but newer ones came with Meanwell's , but can't be sure they have changed to a different PSU again .
Is there a way to check this without disassembly the unit? YES , the meanwell's don't have a voltage 110/220v selector , but the other PSU do .
Yes the Ender 5 plus comes with glass a coating on one side plan glass on the other !!! , The CR10s pro is easy to get the glass bed for , but getting a spare glass for the Ender 5 plus I had to get it from Creality China.
Printing ABS or other hot materials I wouldn't like to print on both machines without being enclosed and having a all metal hotend .
Can't see it now , but the silent board are about £80 and should be easy to get off ebay etc
i just bought one for 340€ shipped to Germany from Germany
Congrats!
2:25 one question: did you clean the bed? pls answer so i can see if cleaning helps
(after every print or something)
Being in the market for one of these things it's kind of disheartening to see a video pop up about what breaks after as little as 1000 hours. I would have expected even a cheap printer to keep a bit longer than that. A good quality printer will of course run a few thousand before you even need to tighten some bolts.
Glad to see you didn't have any really bad issues after all.
The bed is fine. They usually are even cheaper than this so a good quality PEI sheet and that's done. Fan duct is fine as well. They often see a hard life and is often surprisingly badly made, even the duct that came on my Ultimaker 2's was terrible.
its been an effective beast for me. love making things on it
You in the uk can you print me something
Unfortunately I’m located in the states, but I do commissions requests and can ship. Dm me on insta if interested
I bought one of these. the Creality 10S Pro, not the wab-bam. Out of the box it was a disaster. The Z axis cannot be leveled. It will not stay level. This screws up the bed leveling. Customer service sucks. Not your fault but these machines are temperamental to say the least. I would never buy another Creality Product again.
It is true you have to learn how to level the bed perfectly before every print. I do not know if this is something that other printers require, because this was my first printer too. The huge size of this bed can not be off by more than a few hundreths of a mm. Still once you have learned how to level consistantly you will be surprised how well your prints will come out. I have been printing PLA gears and they are very functional. You can also use the adjustment button to add or remove height durring printing, but this takes some practice to use your hearing, surface touch, and eyes to tune on the fly. Still if you are way off on your initial bed leveling then all bets are off. There are lots of video's on youtube that can make you an expert at leveling the Creality 10s Pro in no time. I have been printing about 500 hours and I have struggled to learn many of the tuning tips for this printer. I was able to purchase my 10s Pro for $475 durring one of the black Friday deals. For that price I can not imagine there is a better printer.
ey dude :) can you show me your g code ?
Hulk FPV Gcode for what? It’s different for every model haha. Here’s my cura slicer settings which i use to make gcode for my prints! Hope that helps! ruclips.net/video/NYwUDRjDl4E/видео.html
@@AntonsCreations sry.
when I need to start a print. then it takes a test strip on the left side. but it also takes a test strip from the left to the middle. how can i remove this? thx :)
sounds like your bed is just slightlyyyyy unlevel. i had that before and adjusting z offset a tad should fix, not a gcode error.
@@tymerTHEcheezGUY thx :)