AMSOIL Flat Tappet and Camshaft Lobe Lubrication Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- A look at the numbers behind the superior protection AMSOIL offers legacy vehicles needing premier phosphorous and zinc quantities and the protection they provide. Modern oils have limits on the concentration of zinc and phosphorous allowed by the EPA. Flat tappet valve systems require higher levels of anti-wear additives (zinc and phosphorous) to assure the protection needed.
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I've been using Castro oil 15-50 and my 297/305 flat tappet has done fine with its zinc level
Well said. Penrite oil in Australia fully disclosed it's info, have a look at the zinc and phosphorus.
Just one thing I'll add. Is that the API doesn't limit Zinc directly. Its a byproduct of phosphorus. Now the common thing is for other brands to do is have moly as an additive. But for flat tappet cam engines zinc is king.
So i have a fully built olds 350 in 78 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Holiday, If I wanna pack up the family and drive from Dallas to Houston for a car show, should I run the racing oil? And normal cruising around town with the kid run Z-Rod?
I would recommend the Z-Rod oil for all your driving. If you decide to go to the track and really push the car to maximum performance then use the Racing Oil. The Z-Rod is designed for highly modified powerful engines so for your driving goals it would be perfect. Again, if you intend to max RPM and push for maximum performance then use the Racing Oil. Sorry for the late reply but I came down with Covid 19 in early November and only now have recovered enough to address comments. Contact me via email danwatwson@thelubepage.com and I can send you the tech sheets on the two Amsoil products. If you are looking for a source to buy Amsoil at wholesale I can take care of that also.
Mr. Watson you have cleared a lot of this additive topic in this video, however I have been reading through forums and dedicated sites about engine oil and the adding of liquid molybdenum (MoS2) to the oil. Some people swear on it, others look at it with skepsis.
It is contradictory to have particles in suspense in the oil, yet its so small enough to pass through the filter.
If it makes a difference to the friction of the reciprocating components and surfaces, it could be crucial to lenghten the service life of the engine and reduce fuel consumption. Is it a silly idea to try it out? They claim that it creates a hard sliding film between rough surfaces of rubbing parts. Thanks again, you already helped me out in the past
Emin,
MoS2 is an extreme pressure additive. The sulfur is an active molecule that requires high pressure and temperature to chemically attach to the surface of the metal. In a gear set this can be done where the gears mesh, in the engine there are little if any places where the chemical attachment can occur. There maybe some benefit as an anti-wear agent but organic moly might be a better choice.
Thank you very much Mr.Watson
+Dan Watson I'v been using LIQUI MOLY MoS2 in my engine oil. Are you saying im wasting my money??
How many ppm of moblydenium are we talking about sir, how much is sufficient to protect? New ap sp have around 80 ppm, is that enough for a regular guy who doesn't race? Just curious.
@@mareksumguy1887 Yes. Just use Amsoil
changed to amsoil in my street driven small block chevy that had 5ooo miles on it and took the tops of the cam off in 300 miles and wasted the motor no Amsoil for flat taped cams
Bob I would like to hear all of your story. You have some other problem going on. That scenario is not consistent with any oil. Did the engine seize? With that type of wear I would think the piston rings would have seized and the connector rod bearings as well as the main crank bearings would be knocking big time. You see the oil lubes all the moving parts not just them cam. For the amount of wear you are reporting in 200 miles the whole engine would have been trashed.
@@thelubepage he is a troll liar
@@clawmachinetime955 From time to time the real geniuses step out to be heard, real positive contributions to the discussion.
What about the new boron products like archoil
Why does my air cooled VW engine run higher head temps when I use synthetic oil. I know it lubricates better but I need to transfer the heat of combustion away threw the oil as well as the air cooled fin fan system. I can't bring this up on VW forums. I just want what will keep my engine alive. It's not just about metal wear it's about cooling the oil in an oil cooler. Thx in advance
+Jose Francisco Medeiros Dog house with louvers and thermostat, external oil filter out of heat area, no stock oil screen. Premium fuel, correct timing. I use infra red temp gun on head, block and 1 1/2 quart deep oil sump. Back to back testing show increased temp across the board. It does improve with semi-synthetic but still to hot
+Jose Francisco Medeiros I disagree. You do not want to restrict the suction side of a higher that stock volume pump. stock has 26mm gears and that is what there screen is designed for not 30mm and 6,0000 RPM. I lost my flat tappet cam running Rottella T diesel oil. They took all those additives out when they started putting catalytic converters on trucks. I use a zinc break in additive now. We have gone way off topic. Full Synthetic foil does not transfer heat like conventional oil. You sound like you still believe it comes form dinosaurs. Lubricate and cooling are a problem
First question, what brand or type of synthetic oil are you using? Are you using the same viscosity as the original oil? What you are evaluating is a heat transfer system. Your medium of transfer is the oil. The oil picks up the heat at the oil metal surface. So, the delta temp or difference between the high temp metal and the oil will be the driving mechanism for transferring the heat. The specific heat capacity of the oil will determine the BTUs/LBM and the flow rate will determine the how many LBM (pounds of mass) flow over the area of high temp metal. So knowing the specific heat capacity of liquid will tell you how well it will cool the high temp surface. True synthetics made from PAO,s will have uniform molecular structure, which means they have much better specific heat capacity ratings. I have a suspicion that your synthetic oil might not be of the highest quality.
@@TheEZGZFirst of all full synthetic is not 100% Synthetic. Also, 100%
Synthetic oil has uniformed, synthesized molecules, this transfers heat better then any conventional oil made! lol
AMSOIL I DID THE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE DROVE ABOUT 200 MILES AND LOST OIL PRESSUED PULED CAM AND LIFTERS AND WERE ALMOST FLAT I SAY NO TH AMSOIL,, BOB
Bob I would like to hear all of your story. You have some other problem going on. That scenario is not consistent with any oil. Did the engine seize? With that type of wear I would think the piston rings would have seized and the connector rod bearings as well as the main crank bearings would be knocking big time. You see the oil lubes all the moving parts not just them cam. For the amount of wear you are reporting in 200 miles the whole engine would have been trashed.