Just ordered up 19way rcbo fusebox consumer unit from consumer world and used CJR10 discount. Thanks so much for saving us money and showcasing a great product. Cheers 👍😄
Nice when you're working in the board and need the busbar live too. No way you can possibly slip and touch it with those blacks + busbar cover in place.
When I started work it was the 13th Edition so watching now it is so different - I remember riping out both Rubber and lead cables on 2amp, 5amp and 15amp sockets and fuse board all over the place in the same house. I must say one thing drummed into me was Use the Right tool i.e. a nut requires a spanner or nut spinner NOT pliers......
Learned under the 16th edition on industrial maintenance. Same for me. Right tool for the job. Difference with most modern domestic is that you'd end up carrying loads of different tools at your own expense. My solution is a pair of decent adjustable spanners for gland nuts, and smaller ones, I carry a roll of small metric spanners and lovely bahco mini socket set, size of a pack of cigs. . Don't come across much imperial (BA/Whit) stuff but if so, usually it's ripping OUT, so pliers are fine
Chris: at 11:58 the bond for a 7kW shower goes back to the 14th edition (then a plain green sheath). Logic for the 6 sqmm earth bond was to match the size of the live conductors, there have always been questions as to why the cpc in twin and earth cable has a smaller x section. In the early 70s, 7kW seemed an unusually large load for the old distribution boards, also cable run was usually substantially longer than cooker supply cable. Matching total size of CPC to live conductors satisfied short circuit requirements without calc. Earth loop testers were fairly rare beasts yesteryear.
An operating theatre nurse told me never drive with a full bladder . If you have an accident and it bursts there’s lots of mopping up to do.neat job 👍🏻
I love watching your videos as a 2nd year apprentice! I learnt many small details which help me a lot at work from all the videos I watched so far. You, Nick and Thomas are my stars, learning from different electricians and see how others work really helps me work out what's best and how I can apply it to my work. I also joined the latest competition for the Kewtech KT63 Plus MFT (hopefully I win😄). Thankyou very much👍🏻.
In Canada and the USA, 120V circuits are Black is Hot/Live, White is Neutral and bare/Green is Ground (Earth for those in the UK). 240V circuits are Black is Line 1, Red is Line 2, White (rarely used, usually only for cloths dryers and kitchen stoves/ovens where you have 120V control circuits in the appliance that need the Neutral to work properly) is Neutral and bare/Green is Ground (Earth for those in the UK).
The torque screwdrivers, the draper and the armeg both have a good range of settings whereas other brands are lacking. There are three reasons i feel why the draper is better than the armeg. The draper is cheaper by a mile. The draper comes in a cloth pack which means it takes up less space in the bag or pocket. And finally, the torque adjustment is always with the draper driver, it is part of it, whereas the armeg is separate and and easily be misplaced. The armeg set is beautiful mind.
@@electricalstuff259 CJR seems to use it a lot, has no complaints. And, I wonder if the so called brand snobs have ever tried a little bit of rough? 🤔🤭😷
I bought the draper as it came with everything, had a wide range of settings, but the main thing was it didn't need another tool to set the torque settings. One criticism, the colours make it look cheap.
Not joining the "ferrel all the things" gang? Great work, love your explanations along the way. I'm not a spark, but fine something about electrical work interesting, so it's nice to pick up the odd little fact as I'm watching.
I’m the same. Think I got hooked when I was trying to find videos that may help in fault finding, because the wiring in our house is awful. And although not qualified in Electrical installations. I did five years of Electronics Servicing so can figure a few things out. I just wanted to find things out that I could check with all the power off like correct way to route cables in sockets (for example I didn’t know it’s good practice to double ends going into socket terminals, and also I never knew that the CPC/earth on twin and earth cable is meant to be sleeved when entering the back of the socket (non of the sockets I’ve looked at have any sleeving). But also when I do want to call an electrician out, I have a better idea of what makes a good electrician and to ignore £85 EICR ones!
I bought that label machine or similar as it was on offer, it's useful but the app needs updating it only shows basic consumer unit configuration and Proteus boards
Definitely like the blanks that DIN rail mount, no matter what brand. Metal blanks are f***ing scary to me. They're so close to popping through and hitting the bus.
Here's a simple way of understanding the terms used in American Electrics. On the left of the slash will be the common term, on the right is the definition in the code. Live = Hot/Ungrounded Conductor Neutral = Neutral/Grounded Conductor Earth = Equipment Grounding Conductor Take careful note, that we don't call anything phase. We have some systems where your grounded conductor or neutral is actually a phase! The majority of earthing systems (well over 99%) are TN-C-S.
That was a smart meter right? Doesn’t it notify the provider that the meter has been tampered with when the cover has been removed? What is the procedure you usually take when dealing with smart meters with 16mm tails?
Same smart meter as mine, which only started flashing amber on the top light (WAN) after I'd changed suppliers from the one who installed it. This one also appears to be flashing orange, so I'd guess the current provider can no longer speak to it. Maybe it still reports to the 'original' provider, but whether they'd care is a different matter, especially with no active account.
Did you say 2 showers? Are these both electric showers and if so I wouldn't be putting them both into a new consumer unit for loading on the main dno fuse. In this scenario I either tell my customer that they can only have 1 reinstated into the new board or I have to fit a priority board also for the 2 showers. I've done this a few times with shower and car charger setups too.
Odd that so many people are going to wireless doorbells. I've literally installed a nice new custom relay panel for Mum's doorbell. She's going deaf (despite denying it) so what I've done is put proper doorbells in every room with a central control panel to turn on and off various rooms. (in case people who AREN'T deaf are staying, like me!) Interfaced to her original wireless doorbell using a reed relay. Overkill? Yes... Will it last longer than modern wireless crap? Yes. Edit: it's all running at 12v using a battery backed alarm PSU I pulled off a job, just needed a new battery and doubles as the actual control panel (just a few switches added to the outside and relays on the inside)
Another great video Chris, the biggest problem on the Electricians Forum are the members who believe they’re the dogs bollocks and the best electricians in the world, none of them can take criticism, but are real quick to dish it out in bucket loads, I’ve called them out on few things, as I’m not afraid to say things out loud and boy, did mother not like that omen bit. 🤣🤣🤣
I used to find a good test of a potential quality apprentice was- instead of using a head torch, get the lad to shine a torch telling him exactly where to shine it n if he lost interest you'd always know because the light would be wandering all over ! That's when the Screwdriver on the Old Noggin made great inroads into maintaining discipline. lol
What's the largest 'way' board you would install in a brick shed/workshop with hindsight in mind looking to populate with hobby machines. Mini lathe,vertical drill etc etc. ?
In theory you can have as many ways as possible. You really are going to be more concerned about what load current you will be drawing when operating the machines and how large a supply you can run. Considering that you will usually only be running 1 or two machines at a time and loading on mini lathe and pillar drill are not substantial you could in theory run these off of 1 20amp circuit, add another 20 amp circuit for future projects and a 6 amp lighting circuit, allow for a mains switch you could install a 5 way garage board.
You did a neat job 👍 but those boards and RCBOs don’t inspire me with confidence, used em once, just the once mind. I’ll stick with Square D and Merlin.
It's had to beat an MCB that plugs into a bus bar, why they are not more common I don't know. These are ok, but they are a generic rcbo badged with whichever company is buying them.
It’s cost. I do mainly commercial work, so i’m not in direct competition with the domestic boys (which is a tight market) so i can see why they buy cheap materials.
@@acelectricalsecurity Funny that it's not common in the UK. Here in the USA, everything snaps in to the bus bar (s) in the panelboard. Seems so foreign to me that you would want to run a bus bar underneath and have 2x as many joints to torque/maintain in the long run to distribute power. Cost certainly is much lower for that consumer unit vs the USA style main panel board used in our homes, so I get why its done that way. I love seeing how other countries handle electrical distribution. There's never just one "right/proper way"
It 150mm from the main incomes to the the emergency control handle and 25mm from gas pipe to cable hope u have a festive Christmas or wrap gas pipe in a non conductive pipe or cable through plastic tube !!!
No RCD protection on lights hardly warrants a consumer unit upgrade either, if it did I'd be replacing nearly every board I work on! A lot of sparks giving the wrong advice to customers lately, especially RUclips sparks! Dave Savery is about the only one not pushing people into RCBO surge protected boards
Big accusation there Mick don’t jump to conclusions when you’ve only watched a 20 minute video. The client is making significant changes to the property and is doing things the correct way getting the electrics checked first then upgrading the consumer unit for future expansion!!
@@Cjrelectrical wasn't an accusation, you mentioned at the start of the video a plastic consumer unit under the stairs and lack of RCD protection warranted the upgrade. If the customer is upgrading for future expansion then thats great... I wish all customers had the forward thinking and commitment to safety! There's just a lot of sparks miss informing people at the minute on what warrants an upgrade and going off their personal opinion and not BS7671!
@@mickbitchum4664 i think the key word he used was 'request' not 'required' when plastic fb under wooden stairs. But I understand where you're coming from. Without analysing, one can be lead to think that you need to replace due to how it was presented in the video. But more importantly it's what Chris told the client rather than how he presented it in the video. But I think Chris should have mentioned 'it was a C3 but', just to avoid confusion. Anyway good work Chris
Did you fall the installation because it has a plastic board. People complain about plastic blanks, but there's nothing wrong with them, have they not noticed the breakers are plastic.
Nice idea with the consumer unit lid seal/stickers. Out of interest, is it written in your terms and conditions that if your seals are broken, then that invalidates the customers warranty? Where do you get those seals from? Great video btw👍
No it’s just a little thing I do so I know if anyone has been in there after me which is fine but I’ve had a couple of jobs where people ie plumbers have moved circuits around to make way for boilers etc
@@Cjrelectrical hi Chris didn’t realise it was an old Install the other ring circuit you tested seemed fine at 1.25 ohms that’s the reason I made the comment
Or 32amps my bad, but the hot spot will happen in the middle of both those rcbos no? To be fair ive only come across 1 burnt out rcbo before so i don't even think it matters that much
@@Cjrelectrical See the installations in the German Democratic Republic (GDR ex. Russian Sector). They haven't copper so they use aluminium only over the years. Do you can change lamps monatly and problem alu =》copper and vis versa. Some sparks and I repair an old castle near Karstädt city, we change over 5 km of 3 phase and 8 km of 1 phase of cable! They have wood floor same you in UK of course - I never make so many holes in my life. 😂😊 BTW: alu 4 mm copper 1.5/2.5 mm // alu 6 mm copper 4 mm
Can I ask who is Pablo? Because in the past Dave Savery used to use a company called Haste to fit isolators and you use Pablo, and I always wondered, do they have some special qualification to fit isolators, because I’ve seen you buy a Wylex unit, you knew what type you wanted, and I’m sure your more than capable of fitting it yourself, except you’d have to pull the main fuse, which I’m guessing your not allowed, but Pablo is? Infact I can remember Dan from DSS said in one of his videos, that he got the fire brigade to pull the main fuse. But in one of Dave Savery’s more recent videos, if I remember correctly, Haste are no longer allowed to fit them or pull the main fuse, not sure if he was implying that only the DNO can now? On a separate subject, that fire sealant looked really nicely applied, but I remember quite a few birdies back, you said how someone on Instagram said they drill holes in the back and use the Wiska fire grommets and so you did the same, and that seems a good idea, but I’m guessing you had change of mind? In fact I noticed Jordan is now (or at least empathising it more as not noticed before) applying fire sealant in rear entry holes (Can hear Nick and Adam giggling 🤭). Good job as usual!
Not sure if you are serious but pablo is a fictional seal cutter and main fuse remover who travels the country helping the sparks too scared to do it them selves.
Out of interest what would you do when replacing a CU if the existing cabling doesn’t reach, would you extend the cables or pull them back and run in new ones.
you tend to extend them with a wago or a connector , if the board is moving to a new location you will need to put them in a junction box to his new location
Not just the rcbo tails, people posting huge dbs with loverly cable tied bundles of lives, no grouping factor considered only pretty instagram pics for likes . Last one I looked at must of had at least 30/40 browns zip tied to death in the adjacent trunking, the cables in the centre would probably need 50% or more derating
Hello mate how you doing? Just one question I have is I rent a property out and the boards in the cellar and 16th addition does it need replacing if everything is electrically sound and too the 16th edition ?
5:58 Your Timing is Perfect...
You touch the Earth/Ground and the light dies...
Pablo is so camera shy and gets everywhere. 😂
He does some miles. Would you believe I use Pablo too 😉
Just ordered up 19way rcbo fusebox consumer unit from consumer world and used CJR10 discount. Thanks so much for saving us money and showcasing a great product. Cheers 👍😄
I also prefer the dummy breakers to the blanking plates. I think it looks a lot nicer.
Nice when you're working in the board and need the busbar live too. No way you can possibly slip and touch it with those blacks + busbar cover in place.
When I started work it was the 13th Edition so watching now it is so different - I remember riping out both Rubber and lead cables on 2amp, 5amp and 15amp sockets and fuse board all over the place in the same house. I must say one thing drummed into me was Use the Right tool i.e. a nut requires a spanner or nut spinner NOT pliers......
It was a set of grips
@@Cjrelectrical not a spanner :)
Learned under the 16th edition on industrial maintenance. Same for me. Right tool for the job. Difference with most modern domestic is that you'd end up carrying loads of different tools at your own expense. My solution is a pair of decent adjustable spanners for gland nuts, and smaller ones, I carry a roll of small metric spanners and lovely bahco mini socket set, size of a pack of cigs. . Don't come across much imperial (BA/Whit) stuff but if so, usually it's ripping OUT, so pliers are fine
One tool I am missing is a decent bush spanner
18.4mm is the magic number 😉
I know it doesn’t matter much but it does slightly run out of line the further you go otherwise 👍🏼
Chris, you must remember to breath when using the torq driver. Holding your breath might not work out to good on industrial board! 😉
I use intumescent sealant all the time. Part of my job fitting fire safety equipment.
Great vid mate. Ur channel has been helping me a lot as I’m currently doing my level 2 and 3 electrical installation course at college 👍
Nice one
Same but my college is shit, so I’m looking for a apprenticeship I’ve done level 2 onto 3
Good luck with it mate just managed to get somebody that may take me on soon as long as all the paperwork goes through
Good to see you using the torque driver, so many sparks think it’s best to tighten the screws up until they almost stripped
Brilliant install lads. It's so beautiful, it brings a tear to my eye. Good on you.
Wouldn't it be nice if the tester was able to print out all the results so you can have it neatly on a small receipt.
Should Bluetooth to your iPad really 👍🏻 TM
Always fire seal where you can I agree Chris 👍🏽 I use the fire proof expanding foam too
That printed out looks so proffesional 👍
Chris: at 11:58 the bond for a 7kW shower goes back to the 14th edition (then a plain green sheath). Logic for the 6 sqmm earth bond was to match the size of the live conductors, there have always been questions as to why the cpc in twin and earth cable has a smaller x section. In the early 70s, 7kW seemed an unusually large load for the old distribution boards, also cable run was usually substantially longer than cooker supply cable.
Matching total size of CPC to live conductors satisfied short circuit requirements without calc. Earth loop testers were fairly rare beasts yesteryear.
An operating theatre nurse told me never drive with a full bladder . If you have an accident and it bursts there’s lots of mopping up to do.neat job 👍🏻
I love watching your videos as a 2nd year apprentice! I learnt many small details which help me a lot at work from all the videos I watched so far. You, Nick and Thomas are my stars, learning from different electricians and see how others work really helps me work out what's best and how I can apply it to my work. I also joined the latest competition for the Kewtech KT63 Plus MFT (hopefully I win😄). Thankyou very much👍🏻.
Thank you live draw tomorrow
Top job...love the attention to detail !
you could have filled the hole at the back with Intumescent Fire & Smoke Stop Pillows these are a lot easier if you need to add any new circuits
Quality work as always thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Eeeh Pablo making an appearance again top guy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤪
Love these videos man, useful for someone like me who's recently become qualified
Brilliantly done..nice and neat even with those existing lengths. Top job mate.
In Canada and the USA,
120V circuits are Black is Hot/Live, White is Neutral and bare/Green is Ground (Earth for those in the UK).
240V circuits are Black is Line 1, Red is Line 2, White (rarely used, usually only for cloths dryers and kitchen stoves/ovens where you have 120V control circuits in the appliance that need the Neutral to work properly) is Neutral and bare/Green is Ground (Earth for those in the UK).
The torque screwdrivers, the draper and the armeg both have a good range of settings whereas other brands are lacking. There are three reasons i feel why the draper is better than the armeg.
The draper is cheaper by a mile.
The draper comes in a cloth pack which means it takes up less space in the bag or pocket.
And finally, the torque adjustment is always with the draper driver, it is part of it, whereas the armeg is separate and and easily be misplaced.
The armeg set is beautiful mind.
Yeah armeg is fantastic quality but the Draper is five for the amount of times I use it.
But it's draper. Shite tools.
@@electricalstuff259 CJR seems to use it a lot, has no complaints. And, I wonder if the so called brand snobs have ever tried a little bit of rough? 🤔🤭😷
I bought the draper as it came with everything, had a wide range of settings, but the main thing was it didn't need another tool to set the torque settings. One criticism, the colours make it look cheap.
@@acelectricalsecurity Dolly Parton admits she looks cheap, but she's one amazing person.
😷😊
Been watching you for a while now and knew your name was Chris, but Christopher Reeve, that’s mega. 😊
Not joining the "ferrel all the things" gang?
Great work, love your explanations along the way. I'm not a spark, but fine something about electrical work interesting, so it's nice to pick up the odd little fact as I'm watching.
I’m the same. Think I got hooked when I was trying to find videos that may help in fault finding, because the wiring in our house is awful. And although not qualified in Electrical installations. I did five years of Electronics Servicing so can figure a few things out. I just wanted to find things out that I could check with all the power off like correct way to route cables in sockets (for example I didn’t know it’s good practice to double ends going into socket terminals, and also I never knew that the CPC/earth on twin and earth cable is meant to be sleeved when entering the back of the socket (non of the sockets I’ve looked at have any sleeving). But also when I do want to call an electrician out, I have a better idea of what makes a good electrician and to ignore £85 EICR ones!
That labeller is the nuts. I have the wireless version and use it from a PC :) Good stuff, nice job as always.
Thanks Steve and agree on the labeller
I bought that label machine or similar as it was on offer, it's useful but the app needs updating it only shows basic consumer unit configuration and Proteus boards
I think you meant to say “rear entry”
Thought of you as soon as he didn't say that 😂
Nice work - something many other so-called electricians could use as an example to follow
Fab install - most impressive.
Top class work as always Chris. Stay Safe.
Definitely like the blanks that DIN rail mount, no matter what brand. Metal blanks are f***ing scary to me. They're so close to popping through and hitting the bus.
Plastic doesn't cause fires loose connections do, only reason to change the db is the ability to get rcbos usually crabtree loadstar fit
Very true, but plastic doesn't contain fires if they start and metal will...
Only means of escape in the property especially with children otherwise I don’t even code it just make a note
Here's a simple way of understanding the terms used in American Electrics. On the left of the slash will be the common term, on the right is the definition in the code.
Live = Hot/Ungrounded Conductor
Neutral = Neutral/Grounded Conductor
Earth = Equipment Grounding Conductor
Take careful note, that we don't call anything phase. We have some systems where your grounded conductor or neutral is actually a phase! The majority of earthing systems (well over 99%) are TN-C-S.
And that is Line, not Live. Neutral is a live conductor as well!
Fabulous fabulous work 👏😎🇮🇪
Bundy10 rolls off the tongue better. Should come with free kopex on every order though.
Gas and electric in same small cupboard in every house on our estate 1956 , tiny cupboard
Blank modules rather than metal plates - respect!
That was a smart meter right? Doesn’t it notify the provider that the meter has been tampered with when the cover has been removed? What is the procedure you usually take when dealing with smart meters with 16mm tails?
You've gotta call in Pablo mate.
Same smart meter as mine, which only started flashing amber on the top light (WAN) after I'd changed suppliers from the one who installed it. This one also appears to be flashing orange, so I'd guess the current provider can no longer speak to it. Maybe it still reports to the 'original' provider, but whether they'd care is a different matter, especially with no active account.
Did you say 2 showers? Are these both electric showers and if so I wouldn't be putting them both into a new consumer unit for loading on the main dno fuse. In this scenario I either tell my customer that they can only have 1 reinstated into the new board or I have to fit a priority board also for the 2 showers. I've done this a few times with shower and car charger setups too.
The bond is not for the shower, it’s for the Black N Decker work bench in the workshop! 😂
Haha wrong house
Shout out to PABLO
He doesn't get the credit he deserves - TOP banana!
Odd that so many people are going to wireless doorbells. I've literally installed a nice new custom relay panel for Mum's doorbell. She's going deaf (despite denying it) so what I've done is put proper doorbells in every room with a central control panel to turn on and off various rooms. (in case people who AREN'T deaf are staying, like me!) Interfaced to her original wireless doorbell using a reed relay.
Overkill? Yes... Will it last longer than modern wireless crap? Yes.
Edit: it's all running at 12v using a battery backed alarm PSU I pulled off a job, just needed a new battery and doubles as the actual control panel (just a few switches added to the outside and relays on the inside)
Last sparky put bonding to gas in wrong position. Should be before the tee.
Another great video Chris, the biggest problem on the Electricians Forum are the members who believe they’re the dogs bollocks and the best electricians in the world, none of them can take criticism, but are real quick to dish it out in bucket loads, I’ve called them out on few things, as I’m not afraid to say things out loud and boy, did mother not like that omen bit. 🤣🤣🤣
Think you will find the yanks call the black cable hot as in black death virus 👍
That label maker is slick
Tidy 👍🏻👍🏻
Dunno cable the cable tie on the fly leads? They are all grouped now? Should be free in air
Nice job! Just one comment. Line conductors, and neutral. Both are LIVE conductors!
You could recommend mains smoke detector instal , good job done. 🙂
How's the boy doing? Is he a potential employee once up to scratch? Good to see his hands out his pockets lol
I used to find a good test of a potential quality apprentice was- instead of using a head torch, get the lad to shine a torch telling him exactly where to shine it n if he lost interest you'd always know because the light would be wandering all over ! That's when the Screwdriver on the Old Noggin made great inroads into maintaining discipline. lol
What's the largest 'way' board you would install in a brick shed/workshop with hindsight in mind looking to populate with hobby machines. Mini lathe,vertical drill etc etc. ?
In theory you can have as many ways as possible. You really are going to be more concerned about what load current you will be drawing when operating the machines and how large a supply you can run. Considering that you will usually only be running 1 or two machines at a time and loading on mini lathe and pillar drill are not substantial you could in theory run these off of 1 20amp circuit, add another 20 amp circuit for future projects and a 6 amp lighting circuit, allow for a mains switch you could install a 5 way garage board.
You did a neat job 👍 but those boards and RCBOs don’t inspire me with confidence, used em once, just the once mind.
I’ll stick with Square D and Merlin.
It's had to beat an MCB that plugs into a bus bar, why they are not more common I don't know.
These are ok, but they are a generic rcbo badged with whichever company is buying them.
It’s cost.
I do mainly commercial work, so i’m not in direct competition with the domestic boys (which is a tight market) so i can see why they buy cheap materials.
@@acelectricalsecurity Funny that it's not common in the UK. Here in the USA, everything snaps in to the bus bar (s) in the panelboard. Seems so foreign to me that you would want to run a bus bar underneath and have 2x as many joints to torque/maintain in the long run to distribute power. Cost certainly is much lower for that consumer unit vs the USA style main panel board used in our homes, so I get why its done that way. I love seeing how other countries handle electrical distribution. There's never just one "right/proper way"
Wonderful! 🤠🤓
Is a plastic consumer unit underneath wooden staircase not a c3?
It 150mm from the main incomes to the the emergency control handle and 25mm from gas pipe to cable hope u have a festive Christmas or wrap gas pipe in a non conductive pipe or cable through plastic tube !!!
Amazing Job! Thumb up Cheer!
Plastic CU under wooden staircase with no sign of heat damage C3
No RCD protection on lights hardly warrants a consumer unit upgrade either, if it did I'd be replacing nearly every board I work on! A lot of sparks giving the wrong advice to customers lately, especially RUclips sparks! Dave Savery is about the only one not pushing people into RCBO surge protected boards
Big accusation there Mick don’t jump to conclusions when you’ve only watched a 20 minute video. The client is making significant changes to the property and is doing things the correct way getting the electrics checked first then upgrading the consumer unit for future expansion!!
@@Cjrelectrical wasn't an accusation, you mentioned at the start of the video a plastic consumer unit under the stairs and lack of RCD protection warranted the upgrade. If the customer is upgrading for future expansion then thats great... I wish all customers had the forward thinking and commitment to safety! There's just a lot of sparks miss informing people at the minute on what warrants an upgrade and going off their personal opinion and not BS7671!
@@mickbitchum4664 i think the key word he used was 'request' not 'required' when plastic fb under wooden stairs. But I understand where you're coming from. Without analysing, one can be lead to think that you need to replace due to how it was presented in the video. But more importantly it's what Chris told the client rather than how he presented it in the video. But I think Chris should have mentioned 'it was a C3 but', just to avoid confusion.
Anyway good work Chris
Top quality workmanship as usual Chris. Keep banging out these brilliant videos.👍🏼
Great work as always chris , I enjoy all your videos
Nice neat job.
Nice job 👍😀
Needs an enclosed fitting in that cupboard 👍
Awesome job I know it's a bit of a over kill but I always use bootlace ferrules on all wires just makes the job look a bit neater
Ferrules are not suitable for solid core cables
@@Cjrelectrical Are they not? Not usually necessary of course, but why not suitable?
Hey guys, can you do a run down on the tests you do, R1 R2, Zs etc
It would be better to also label what the lighting and sockets circuits served (upstairs/ downstairs, kitchen etc.) for fault location and isolation.
Yes the ICertifi produces a DB schedule that I get the client to print out
Nice job as always but that main earth should be minimum of 16mm for 25mm line conductor
If I said the main earth was a 10mm that’s a mistake it’s 16mm
@@Cjrelectrical I let u off this time😂😂
Only joking✌️
Did you fall the installation because it has a plastic board.
People complain about plastic blanks, but there's nothing wrong with them, have they not noticed the breakers are plastic.
Nope
Quality video as usual 👌🏻👌🏻
Nice idea with the consumer unit lid seal/stickers. Out of interest, is it written in your terms and conditions that if your seals are broken, then that invalidates the customers warranty? Where do you get those seals from? Great video btw👍
No it’s just a little thing I do so I know if anyone has been in there after me which is fine but I’ve had a couple of jobs where people ie plumbers have moved circuits around to make way for boilers etc
The first ring you checked the cpc reading seemed slightly high when you work out the live x 1.67, pablo is a n amazing guy
Remember it’s imperial not metric
@@Cjrelectrical hi Chris didn’t realise it was an old Install the other ring circuit you tested seemed fine at 1.25 ohms that’s the reason I made the comment
I’m sure Pablo has a cousin who calls on my jobs every so often to install isolators and new meter tails
I don’t need pablo, I cut the frigging seals and remove the main fuse my self, there ive said it. Grow some nuts people
@@supersparks9466 do you remove and replace the main fuse safely with flash protection rubber gloves??
Sorry, you left gaps to reduce hot spots. But you then put 2, 40amp showers together?
32 amp rcbos with a gap either side yes.
Or 32amps my bad, but the hot spot will happen in the middle of both those rcbos no?
To be fair ive only come across 1 burnt out rcbo before so i don't even think it matters that much
Although what kind of water pressure would you have with both showers running?
haha Chris you be getting Nick and Adam jellies talking about rear entry #bundy10
The main earth cpc should be 16mm and should be upgraded from 10mm
What head torch do you use Chris?
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Always a great day when you post a new video Chris 👍🏼
Cheers
19:23 If you want to be REALLY Polite, rather than calling it the Toilet, say "you need to make a deposit in the Porcelain Bank"...
Or if you're an internet geek. Gone to uoload data to the toilet zone
or every other tradesman... "I need a p*ss" :)
Dropping the kids off at the pool
yay ... so " Fire Mate " when someone has to replace CU is that not a right pain in the arse or does in come out quite easily ?????
Comes off easily
What are your thoughts on the aluminium cable? I know some ppl will fail an eicr for it 🤦🏻♂️
It’s not aluminum it’s tinned copper
CJR ELECTRICAL is it? I always thought they used Aluminium during a period where copper was unavailable. or is this cable specifically tinned copper?
They did do aluminum but the size would be a lot bigger due aluminum being a poor conductor
@@Cjrelectrical See the installations in the German Democratic Republic (GDR ex. Russian Sector). They haven't copper so they use aluminium only over the years.
Do you can change lamps monatly and problem alu =》copper and vis versa.
Some sparks and I repair an old castle near Karstädt city, we change over 5 km of 3 phase and 8 km of 1 phase of cable! They have wood floor same you in UK of course - I never make so many holes in my life. 😂😊
BTW: alu 4 mm copper 1.5/2.5 mm // alu 6 mm copper 4 mm
I used bundy10 and it gave me 20% off
Can I ask who is Pablo? Because in the past Dave Savery used to use a company called Haste to fit isolators and you use Pablo, and I always wondered, do they have some special qualification to fit isolators, because I’ve seen you buy a Wylex unit, you knew what type you wanted, and I’m sure your more than capable of fitting it yourself, except you’d have to pull the main fuse, which I’m guessing your not allowed, but Pablo is? Infact I can remember Dan from DSS said in one of his videos, that he got the fire brigade to pull the main fuse. But in one of Dave Savery’s more recent videos, if I remember correctly, Haste are no longer allowed to fit them or pull the main fuse, not sure if he was implying that only the DNO can now? On a separate subject, that fire sealant looked really nicely applied, but I remember quite a few birdies back, you said how someone on Instagram said they drill holes in the back and use the Wiska fire grommets and so you did the same, and that seems a good idea, but I’m guessing you had change of mind? In fact I noticed Jordan is now (or at least empathising it more as not noticed before) applying fire sealant in rear entry holes (Can hear Nick and Adam giggling 🤭). Good job as usual!
Not sure if you are serious but pablo is a fictional seal cutter and main fuse remover who travels the country helping the sparks too scared to do it them selves.
Old school if you need to use this ?????
Retest 10 years ?
👍
Can you double up on breakers with no problems like you said at 12 mins ?
You can spur off a ring for a FCU, single or double socket, including at the CU
How much did that little episode install cost? Yhanks 🤔
Out of interest what would you do when replacing a CU if the existing cabling doesn’t reach, would you extend the cables or pull them back and run in new ones.
Depends
If easy to do there and then and doesn’t take to long then yes if not joint and ask client
you tend to extend them with a wago or a connector , if the board is moving to a new location you will need to put them in a junction box to his new location
grouping factor on the bundled rcbo tails ? neatness is not always safeness
Not just the rcbo tails, people posting huge dbs with loverly cable tied bundles of lives, no grouping factor considered only pretty instagram pics for likes . Last one I looked at must of had at least 30/40 browns zip tied to death in the adjacent trunking, the cables in the centre would probably need 50% or more derating
👍
32A for electric showers? Our shower is 10.5kW. It's okay, but I don't fancy using anything less powerful.
Hy
I'm new on your channel
Why there is a gap between circuit breakers ?
Nice j. O. B
How long did it take and how much did you charge.
Labels 6A RCBO LIGHTs. Upstairs Downstairs Front ?
ICertifi convert the test sheet to a board schedule. More in-depth description on that.
Why are you installing DP rcbos?
Hi, consumerworld discount isn't working!
Hello mate how you doing? Just one question I have is I rent a property out and the boards in the cellar and 16th addition does it need replacing if everything is electrically sound and too the 16th edition ?
Nope doesn’t need to changing just because it’s plastic. When was it last tested?
Great work just a quick question to you have a ecs gold card
Yes I do not that they mean anything in this day and age.
They are starting to again unless you got gold ecs says you are no longer a sparky but a labour so building sites now starting to without card nowork
Il put plumber on mine 👍