Appreciate the video, generally, consult RUclips beforehand upon mechanical work that I haven't done in the past. Now at 73 years old still learning things every day. Specific to your video picked up your tips and in comments the ability to spread the knuckle to easily accept the new strut. Thanks to your well done vid I'm off in 100 degree heat to get it done.
Thank you for the video, I was able to change the struts with it! The anti sway bar link removal was the most challenging part of the job, took a while to get that thing lose.
Hey, what’s going on man… Appreciate how you made detailed step-by-step instructions simple to follow. Going out to the driveway to do the same thing on an 06 Mazda 5
I'm so very glad that my video helped! Welcome onboard! I do a variety of things and have many ideas for upcoming videos. I started the channel three years ago and have had a lot of fun creating videos and interacting with viewers in these forums. Hope to see you again!
thanks for the vid, very helpfull, just one detail, those springs tend to weakend with time and will compress more than normal, they are not forever, again thanks for sharing the vid
Yes, the springs DO weaken with time. That's one of the reasons that I usually just replace the whole assembly. You can save a little money by reusing everything EXCEPT The shock, but after you factor in the time, the need to own a spring compressor and the relatively low cost of aftermarket strut assemblies, it's often easier and cheaper to swap out the whole thing.Thanks for the comment.
So far, So good. It's been about that many miles on these (this was done a couple of years ago). Sometimes, even good brands, like MOOG, fail early. I buy most parts at Rock Auto dot Com and many of their knock-off suspension parts are as-good and much less expensive than regular store brands. Best Wishes!
There is no mount on the front of this car. Only the strut assembly, on this 2006 Mazda 5. Mounts usually bolt to the body of the car. Perhaps the mount is defective. Other possibilities are wrong struts, or the control arm needing to be pushed down to allow the new strut to be placed. Good luck. let us know what you find.
How's she goin'? Changing the struts is a pretty straight forward job, but it's not easy eh!!! Lots of WD40 needed and some banging and smashing. That's why I was an electrician!!! LOL Nice job though and the new struts will give a much nicer ride!!! Take care!!
I already notice a difference in the ride-much smoother. When shocks go, you are left to bounce along on the springs. I usually buy MOOG suspension parts because of their reputation for superior products and strength, but I noticed on the box that even this long-held USA manufacturer is having things made in China! I hope that they have stringent quality control at their factory there!! I did this job under a carport, on muddy ground in the rain, which added to some of the difficulty, but changing struts is doable for most shade-tree mechanics (even electricians have been known to pull it off haha). If you noticed, I even disconnected and re-connected a wire just for you, Mike, although I should have put a dab of dielectric grease on the connection! Always room for improvement. Thanks for watching!
The shock portion of the strut had failed: Symptoms were that the car would bounce and bottom when hitting a bump. The shock dampens these movements. The shock can be changed separately but the complete assembly (shock, spring) comes with a new spring and eliminates the need to compress the old spring to change the shock. Plus the price is usually competitive vs. changing just the shock especially when you factor in the time it takes to perform the repair. Changing the whole assembly is what most mechanics choose to do. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@EverydayProjects Thank you, very helpful. I have a cupping problem on the inside of my driverside front and rear tires. I checked with a tire shop and they diagnosed my issue to be an alignment problem. I only have about less than 35,000 miles on my 2018 Mazda CX-5. A trip to the dealership I go.
@@rs-369 All the components must work together. If everything is good except one part, you'll still have trouble. Good struts, control arm bushings, anti-sway knuckles, ball joints, strut mounts, wheel bearing hubs all play a role in good driveability and tire life. When they're all good and you still have cupping, look for over or under inflation issues. Sometimes, if a vehicle has been in an accident, the car body is bent and it can affect alignment and tire wear. Best wishes with your repair.
Thank you for this video. Very smooth and accurate explaining every step till the end. I appreciate your video
Glad it helps! All the Best Craig
Appreciate the video, generally, consult RUclips beforehand upon mechanical work that I haven't done in the past. Now at 73 years old still learning things every day. Specific to your video picked up your tips and in comments the ability to spread the knuckle to easily accept the new strut. Thanks to your well done vid I'm off in 100 degree heat to get it done.
@@bradspring3303 thanks and best wishes 😀
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Thank you for the video, I was able to change the struts with it! The anti sway bar link removal was the most challenging part of the job, took a while to get that thing lose.
Hey, what’s going on man…
Appreciate how you made detailed step-by-step instructions simple to follow. Going out to the driveway to do the same thing on an 06 Mazda 5
Right on! I hope your repair goes well. Be safe and have fun!
I’m new to the channel and this saved my bacon thank you so very much!
I'm so very glad that my video helped! Welcome onboard! I do a variety of things and have many ideas for upcoming videos. I started the channel three years ago and have had a lot of fun creating videos and interacting with viewers in these forums. Hope to see you again!
Yep very clear ,that will be done for me in a local Garage .
I'm sure they'll do a good job.
Thank you. That was an excellent guide for my 2012 Mazda 5
No problem. Glad it helped!
thanks for the vid, very helpfull, just one detail, those springs tend to weakend with time and will compress more than normal, they are not forever, again thanks for sharing the vid
Yes, the springs DO weaken with time. That's one of the reasons that I usually just replace the whole assembly. You can save a little money by reusing everything EXCEPT The shock, but after you factor in the time, the need to own a spring compressor and the relatively low cost of aftermarket strut assemblies, it's often easier and cheaper to swap out the whole thing.Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for watching my video! If you enjoy content like this, please subscribe! I have many more ideas for videos yet to come! Take Care.
Well done. Of all the videos I've watched, yours was particularly easy to follow.
Thanks. I work hard to bring videos to RUclips and it is very rewarding to hear that they have helped someone out. I hope your strut change went well.
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks, I truely hope it helps. Thanks again for making a comment!
Great video! I’m changing my struts today and I’ll be using your video as a guide.
I hope it helps. Good luck!!
It’s not that easy putting back the new one ! I have tried it yesterday, it took me 7h with a friend for only one side ! Don’t give up !
Would the replacement process be the same with a newer gen 2014 Mazda 5?
It would be very similar. The body style hasn't changed much and most (if not all Mazda 5) would be done this way.
Did you had issues with those? These Moog on my mazda 5 mpv developed clunking noises overtime (10k mi later)
So far, So good. It's been about that many miles on these (this was done a couple of years ago). Sometimes, even good brands, like MOOG, fail early. I buy most parts at Rock Auto dot Com and many of their knock-off suspension parts are as-good and much less expensive than regular store brands. Best Wishes!
Great video!!!!! Thanks............
Hey, Thanks. I hope it has helped.
What exactly did you do prep the mount before putting the new one in? I’m having the most difficult time getting the new strut body into the mount.
There is no mount on the front of this car. Only the strut assembly, on this 2006 Mazda 5.
Mounts usually bolt to the body of the car. Perhaps the mount is defective. Other possibilities are wrong struts, or the control arm needing to be pushed down to allow the new strut to be placed. Good luck. let us know what you find.
holy shit this is the best video ever
Thank You !
THANKS *
Glad to help!!
How's she goin'? Changing the struts is a pretty straight forward job, but it's not easy eh!!! Lots of WD40 needed and some banging and smashing. That's why I was an electrician!!! LOL Nice job though and the new struts will give a much nicer ride!!! Take care!!
I already notice a difference in the ride-much smoother. When shocks go, you are left to bounce along on the springs. I usually buy MOOG suspension parts because of their reputation for superior products and strength, but I noticed on the box that even this long-held USA manufacturer is having things made in China! I hope that they have stringent quality control at their factory there!! I did this job under a carport, on muddy ground in the rain, which added to some of the difficulty, but changing struts is doable for most shade-tree mechanics (even electricians have been known to pull it off haha). If you noticed, I even disconnected and re-connected a wire just for you, Mike, although I should have put a dab of dielectric grease on the connection! Always room for improvement. Thanks for watching!
Do i need to align the wheels after ?
Yes, it would be a good idea any time you change anything with the suspension.
Thanks.
I hope it helped.
And the reason for changing the strut, why did you change it.? What would be the reasons, scenarios? Thanks
The shock portion of the strut had failed: Symptoms were that the car would bounce and bottom when hitting a bump. The shock dampens these movements. The shock can be changed separately but the complete assembly (shock, spring) comes with a new spring and eliminates the need to compress the old spring to change the shock. Plus the price is usually competitive vs. changing just the shock especially when you factor in the time it takes to perform the repair. Changing the whole assembly is what most mechanics choose to do. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@EverydayProjects Thank you, very helpful. I have a cupping problem on the inside of my driverside front and rear tires. I checked with a tire shop and they diagnosed my issue to be an alignment problem. I only have about less than 35,000 miles on my 2018 Mazda CX-5. A trip to the dealership I go.
@@rs-369 All the components must work together. If everything is good except one part, you'll still have trouble. Good struts, control arm bushings, anti-sway knuckles, ball joints, strut mounts, wheel bearing hubs all play a role in good driveability and tire life. When they're all good and you still have cupping, look for over or under inflation issues. Sometimes, if a vehicle has been in an accident, the car body is bent and it can affect alignment and tire wear. Best wishes with your repair.
is this exactly the same for a mazda 3?
Yes, that should be the same set up exactly. This was a 2006 Mazda 5. If your mazda 3 is a similar vintage, they should be the same.
@@EverydayProjects Awesome thank you for the quick response!
Didn't get what size those top mounting bolts are
I'm not sure I mentioned their size.. the ones that hold the top mount into the car are most likely 13 or 14 mm. Best Wishes