It was hotter after you installed it because it was able to draw more wattage. So, that simply means the benchmark was able to also draw more which will, obviously, add heat. So this is good. Really good. Simply put, the added cooling abilities allows to push the cpus output performance. You would only result in cooler temps if there was a way to cap the wattage usage to match that of the test done before you did the install. That would truly show if it lowers temps.
It can also be useful when overclocking than having motherboard ai or stock marketing junk, manual is a better option to handle better voltages and probably oc to 5.6 to 5.7ghz
No, this is not completely correct. Yes, it dissipated more power (watts) which is why it ran hotter. *BUT the whole idea of this frame is to keep the CPU cooler.* So this is NOT good. This merely showed that the throttling of the CPU was slightly different between the two tests and the software gave a slight advantage to the aftermarket bracket by allowing it to run slightly hotter. I'm willing to bet that if he ran many tests in both before and after configurations and averaged the results out, there would be little to no difference. The biggest factor by far was the overall thermal setup - actual cooler used plus thermal conductivity of the thermal compound. I do agree with the your last part. The only true comparison is to have both tests dissipate the same amount of power and measure the final temperature difference, if any. In theory, if this frame was part of the overall cooling frame (e.g. thermal conductive paste between frame and CPU) then the added mass of the new thermal frame would add a tiny bit to the overall heat dissipation. But, then, the original steel bracket would have also added to the overall heat dissipation as well. However, Aluminum makes a better thermal conductor.
@@redclaw72666 manual oc is NOT better on amd, intels do not have a quick response clock gen like ryzen has, so them constantly running at max clock but reduced bus is ok, but amds cant reduze IF clock, which is why a manual oc´d ryzen will chunk power.
HIgher clock speeds generate more heat, so perhaps by being able to achieve higher clock speeds with the THermalright plate accounts for the slightly higher temps.
do a test with thermal paste on the metal to metal contact points so the frame itself can be a heat sink. i think this would be a better test for the ryzen cpu. also imagine if the contact frame was cut so precisely that it could cool off the sides of the cpu as well with applying thermal paste.
I've got the Ryzen 7 7700X. I had some weird temperature issues early on. I was just using the standard bracket to lock down the cpu. First couple applications had the cpu hitting the 95 degree mark under any multicore type of load. I saw the AM5 bracket and went with it as it also works as a way of blocking thermal paste from getting to the parts on the pcb. I hadn't even considered the IHS bending. The thing fixed my temps. I definitely recommend that people consider swapping the standard bracket off their AM5 boards.
You should probably still not consider the IHS bending, because it's not doing that, if it was nothing short of bending it back flat would fix it. What is happening is the ILM is too long for a single arm ILM to keep equal pressure on both sides of the IHS so it's allowing the chip to sit unevenly in the socket. Which is why these contact frames actually work.
The contact frame, aside from providing a secure and even mount for the CPU, also provides *more Aluminum MASS that helps to further bleed heat from being connected to the IHS.*
Got this same exact part for my build (13900k) and it has been a lifesaver, paired with the lt720 aio from deepcool I’ve been able to OC to 6ghz and I’ve never throttled and even under full load for sustained periods I never get higher than 93C temp. Aesthetically (even though you can’t see it once the aio is mounted) it looks better on the motherboard than the default frame too lol.
I have bought 13900k, lt720, and now looking at contact frames. 6 Ghz and maximum temp are 93 C, just wow. How is that possible? Is it related to the OC settings? What was your stock results?
its a worthwhile upgrade to mitigate bending in the long term. the stock ilm has been shown to bend the cpu, keep it mounted for years and countless heat cycles it could become permanent. either frame will prevent this. i have the thermalright installed in 13900k, fast and easy install, with a bit more saftey built in over the thermal grizzly frame.
yeah and what they don't tell you is that it kills the warranty of your motherboard so that little $10 object can turn into what ever the price of your motherboard is to pay again if you ever have an issue with it, better be safe than sorry, won't put my warranty at risk for 5 fps more and 10 degress cooler lol
There was once I release the lever, it skip off my finger because the strength of the lever is quite strong, the cpu jump up a bit, rest on a few pins and cause the pins to bent. I'm so lucky to bend it back to position. I feel that from now on, the socket should follow this type of design. The spring loaded lever is too strong, there is a chance it can skip off the finger because of the curve in/out way of tightening. The spring is shiny stainless steel that made the surface slippery off the finger of the curve in/out way of tightening and release. Now I always place one hand fingers to stop the rectangle metal from spring out that lead the cpu outward force jumping out while release the lever.
Thanks for the review! Great one! Would you mind testing the AM5 model aswell? Watching along the video I was hoping for the AM5 version benchmarks and also your thoughts on wether it could damage some of the components as they're outside the IHS unlike the Intel CPUs
The IHS is not bending, the single arm ILM frame is not strong enough to keep pressure on both sides of the CPU causing it to not sit as flat as needed for good cooler contact. If your IHS was bending a contact frame wouldn't solve that issue, the CPU would still be uneven.
This also fixes some problems with heavier dual tower air coolers and certain mobos bending the socket making the ILM frame issue even more pronounced. I've seen 5-10c documented improvements with watercooling running the same voltages and clocks but upwards of 15c cooler temps when using a heavy dual tower air cooler and the contact frame.
i dont understand the need im running a 12900ks and never see temps above 60 on full load with a AIO, but if fell like if your buying a higher end processor you can get a AIO
I use this with an i7-12700k and my temps went down by 7-10 Celsius compared to what it originally was. Also, I plan on using the same bracket for an i7-13700k
Was using default type of the frame for my 12600k and it actually stopped working after ~ 1 year. It occurred my CPU bent A LOT and was way too kind of curvy. So, basically, there was no contact between CPU and the socket. I recommend everybody to purchase this 10$ thing, it will save much more
Love these videos!! 😤 I previously had the Lian Li Galahad 240mm aio w/ stock fans on my 13700k, and it would get around 84-87c on r23 while never passing 74c while gaming Changed to the MSI MEG Coreliquid S280mm aio w/ 2 140mm Silent Wing Pro fans, and that exact same contact frame. On r23 it wouldn't pass 74c, and while gaming it wouldn't pass 64c. My custom fan curve was the same for both, as well as the CPU undervolt.
DO NOT cinch down the screws, two finger tight only and stop when the screws stops turning, make sure all four are equal, gradually tighten opposite corners a bit at a time. If you're worried about the screws backing out get a threadlock stick and apply to the end of the screw (you could use liquid too but the stick is easier) Performance of the Thermalright and Thermal Grizzley frames are basically the same except the Thermalright frame is much easier to install. The Thermalright frame sits flush with the MB and the Thermal Grizzley frame floats, with the Thremalright frame you just stop when the screws stop where with the Thermal Grizzley one you have to fiddle with screw tension (ideally use a torque controlled screwdriver). If you use acetone to clean the CPU don't get it on the plastic "feet" on the ends of the Thermalright frame it will attack the plastic and the adhesive that is used to attach them to the frame.
@@JohnSmith-pn2vlgamers nexus tested and they do perform the same. Thermalright has greater variance in machining precision but not enough to effect thermals
dude wth are doing using acetone anywhere near a motherboard or CPU? even the vapour will depolymerise (i.e. molecularly disintegrate) polycarbonate or ABS. The electrical insulation lamination on PCBs is often PC. There are ABS and PC plastic components across your motherboard and also on the case. Even the shroud on your GPU is made from PC/ABS. You are literally molecularly disintegrating your entire PC. Plus it's flammable, toxic, volatile and a respiratory system irritant. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol as used and recommended by the manufacturer.
Hopefully u already know this for 13th gens, but with the high temps I changed the incoming voltage by using the bios settings. There is different voltage profiles and I went to the 4th one down and I get higher speeds and the temperature stays under 75degrees. No more thermal throttle which allowed me to keep on my highest cpu clocks… I tried 6 other volt profiles and tested each one but it will vary depending on ur cpu… I am now able to use air cooling on my 13900k and I got 42000 on my last 10 min test. There are lots of videos on it now but I’m wondering why he isn’t doing that for any of his videos…. I hope he can do a video on his process if he does do it cause then it will help a lot more ppl. Thank you for all ur hard work! It doesn’t go unnoticed! Lol
@@petbalogh erm i doubt he is staying under 75c with 42k score... my 13900kf cant do that with the bracket and an undervolt... i hit nearly 43k with an oc... 5.9 on 2 cores rest sit at 5.6... and 4.5 on e cores..
Intel socket and now AMD did it to, is the most moronic thing i ever saw, u can damage so easily motherboard for hundrets dollars just like that, it is absolute nightmare for me changing rig after 2-3 years, for now i will not buy any intel product if they will not change this ridiculous socket build, and i refuse to buy expensive and power hungry amd, they both dont give us a real chance to enjoy building and using computers
Good stuff but, you also must have done other things in conjuction as, 25 degrees is way too high of a number for it to only be reflective of a plate. Somewhere between 6-12C is what these plates will give you.
@@potvinsuks8730 If you get unlucky with a particular curved CPU and a cooler curved the other way, this can very much be possible due to bad contact. Also, could have tightened up the screws or changed thermal paste application.
The Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame is manufactured and produced in Germany and it has lower tolerances than the one from Thermalright. I am using the one from Thermalright, because the Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame wasn't available, when i needed it. The Mounting is also slightly different - Gamers Nexus did a good Video about it. Edit: I am using an i5 13600k slightly overclocked to 5.4 on the P-Cores, 4.4 on the E-Cores and 4.9 on the Cache with a fixed voltage of 1.26V (equal to stock under load). In my case, i got a 9°C improvement in liquid temperature. The CPU itself was 15°C cooler than before. Testet in Cinebench R23 with a warming up time of 20 minutes and a 30 minute test run - my loop has about 450 to 500ml of coolant and a single 360mm radiator.
this, availability is a bih most of the times i swear. i can barely get my hands on an arctic aio. had to buy it from an unreviewed item online, glad the seller delivered. And so i opted for thermalright as well.
The Thermalright frame is much easier to install that was enough for me. If you're going to make a better solution to Intel's over engineered jank then don't replace it with more over engineered jank. (but then the Thermal Grizzley one is german designed and germans are all about over engineered jank)
No way it's stable at 1.26v. Try compling the shaders on Last of Us 1. It's gonna crash every 20 seconds. That was my experience until I raised the voltage
I have it for the am5 7950x. I knew while purchasing that it won't do much for the temps, maybe 1° here and there. But it's a life saver if you will be constantly changing or removing the cooler. I was waiting on my case, then I knew I would be going custom loop. So it made sense for me buying this. Bought it straight away when I purchased the CPU.
Are If you are like me you might just buy one because having things nice and tidy just makes you feel smarter. I'm not moving CPUs from systems but I could see a lot of value in this even If it is mostly aesthetic for long-term durability. If you have to spend extra to make your system last longer well it's worth it.
@@kissofthecobra3761 keeping it tidy 100%. Even if you are taking the cooler off once every year (which you should always change your themal paste at least a year), it's worth it. It just keeps the whole CPU clean. I don't think it does anything for durability, at least for amd cpus, the whole die is square so it evenly spreads the pressure, unlike intels. Same for the thermals. Doesn't do anything.
I noticed you was talking about bending the CPU, and just recently done a PC upgrade using the Z690 itx m-board with the Intel i9-13900 CPU, in the Asus manual it does say to remove that clear plastic tube that is over the arm that locks down the cover plate for the CPU, and in this video it looks like you still have the shipping cover tube still on the locking arm / lever. did you know about removing it? i just caught it by chance and so glad i read the manual even for simple things i have done many times in the past.. hope this helps many PC builders out..
The only problem with the "10$ accessory" is that it's a copy of Thermal Grizzly's 40$ "accessory" but it's easy to pull the price down when you don't do any research and just copy someone else work. Just saying.
They actually created theirs before thermal grizzly did so if anything thermal grizzly stole their work and charged a higher price for the same thing 😂
People realized the potential issue and were doing the washer trick way back when the 12th gens first came out. thermal grizzly decided to see who they could suck 40 dollars from while making a fancy copy of the trick, while other companies did not try to gouge quite so much for the same thing.
Anyone having this one (or Grizzly's) frame for 7950x? If so, do you see any benefits in temps with it? (I've heard AM5 doesn't need this cause they don't have the issue with CPU bending like Intel's 12th and 13th do...
This Frame 100% works. The Thing is, if your CPU is overheating _heavily_ already, because there is no power limit and you did not do any undervolting, it's hard to see the benefit so easily, since no power-limit means only the temperature is the limit. Which in this case is tjMax 100°C. I have close to 42k with undervolt without power limit on air cooling in Cinebench R23 Multicore. Or 41k with 253W Power Limit.
If you are already hitting 330 watts on a 13900k without the contact frame, then your CPU is fine and the contact frame won't do much. The contact frame does wonders when your CPU already hits 100c and throttles at 220 to 250 watts.
I still recommend if you plan to keep your current setup for a long time. At least you will have even pressure on your chip for how many years you decide to not upgrade.
Very good presentation. 👍 The only thing I could mention is that we don't know for how long you were using your cooler with the thermal paste before you install the contact frame. I mean, maybe, you got better results because of applying new thermal paste. In any case, I find this product and its idea that represents great! 👌Thank you for sharing this with us.
The second test is 1 degree C higher because it was running 13 seconds longer, as you said. More time, more heat during the test. I just hope that bracket doesn't trap heat on the sides of the CPU. Given the temperature, I think it would be ideal if the bracket was an additional heatsink dissipating the heat from the sides of the CPU. Additional passive cooling combined with good case ventilation. Would love to see a test run then.
@@THE-X-Force Month later so not sure how usefull this is, but i have the 13700k. My pc kept overheating to 100C, which made certain games crash under heavy load. Simply turning off CPU Game Boost in Bios completely solved it, and max is now around 85C, no more crashes. I also havent really noticed any difference, but dont have any stats to back that up
Oh!!! I invested in one when I built my PC last August and have to say my temp is often at max 50 degree unless I am testing my system it will peak at 81 degree. It idles around 30 degrees most of the time. I am using a 12700K, Noctua NH -D15 Chromax. Black and BeQuiet Silent wings 3.
Please help! I watched your videos on ProArt systems and contact frames and decided to use one on my first build, but have run into a problem. I bought a ProArt PA602 case, a ProArt LC 420 AIO cooler, and a ProArt Z790 motherboard with an Intel 14900KF processor housed in a Thermal Grizzly contact frame, and tried to put them together. Assembly went normally until I tried to install the waterblock/pump head onto the CPU. I used the hex-styled standoffs labeled for an LG1700, as per the instructions, and just lightly seated them onto the motherboard, not over-tightening. The Thermal Grizzly contact frame is absolutely not touching or otherwise interfering with the motherboard or CPU fitment. The standoff screws seem not long enough with the included Intel-style backing plate to give any thread to install the thumbscrew caps which fasten down the waterblock/pumphead. There is a gap left beneath the AIO mounting bracket of just about the size I would expect to give enough thread for the thumbscrew caps, if only the waterblock copper face were a bit shorter in height. When settling the waterblock onto the CPU, the tip of each standoff screw just barely comes flush with the outside/top of the waterblock mounting bracket, leaving no thread to fasten them on at all. I've redone this from scratch twice now, carefully rechecking everything I did, and cannot figure out what the problem is. What am I doing wrong?
Just found out that here in Sweden i can apparently buy Windows 10 pro for less that 7$ from many different resellers i think whokeys should up there game. I think WE are the product.....
It's $10, lol you definitely should buy it. It's driving me nuts, everyone out there critiques all of these products and poo-poo a few degrees lower temps, if you purchase (the Best/coolest AIO, etc.) and do things (airflow management, the best Thermal paste, etc.) that can save a few degrees here and there it all starts to add up to a CPU that can run cooler and perform better.
Not as easy to install as it looks imho. TURN SLOW with a little pressure on cpu at all times to prevent it from moving. Only like approximately 2 rotations needed for the first screw to become so tight that it tilts and rotates the processor + contact frame out of the socket (Luckily no damage to pins). Also you need to install the backplate of the cooler to hold the cpu backplate to the board. So many videos make no mention of this... its the act of rotating the screws counter-clockwise until they click that can cause it to move. When that happens, you gotta find a magnetic screwdriver to lift the screws out so you can peak through the holes and re-align the board with the backplate. Also be mindful of SMD's on the back of the mobo when you put it down. An issue that was specific to me is one of the mobo screws was slightly deformed... it wouldn't let go of the included wrench without a lot of wiggling or tremendous force (to the point of wanting to rip out of the board unless i turned it down 1 and 1/4 times), and it wouldn't click if i turned it counter-clockwise. I had no choice but to just turn all the screws until they just started to tighten and then used a torque screwdriver to finish up the torque pattern (8-9 in-lb worked for me to approximate hand-tightening... for comparison, since no manufacturer of these contact frames wants to specify a torque value, the ThreadRipper processors come with a torque screwdriver that is set to 13 in-lb).
The question is also, if we reduce the temperature because of this frame, because it has contact with the heathspreader?...in essence, we increase the thermal mass and surface area of the heathspreader. So it is in our interest that there is not only good mechanical contact between them, but also thermal contact. It would be interesting to see how cold the temperatures would be if you applied an ultra-thin layer of thermal paste to the surfaces where the frame and the heat spreader touch or where the frame presses on the heathspreader. In that sense, these frames are poorly constructed. Basically, in addition to mechanical rigidity, you should also have as much surface area as possible. I'll try it on my new AM5 system...just a little...a little bit of thermal paste on the contacts of the heatsspreader and the frame can't hurt...just the application should be really minimal, and rather on the frame than on the processor when it's already in the socket ...just less possibility of "accident".
For such a cheap item, hard to say no to it. At the same time, the benefits just are not sufficient enough to really be worth wild. For people absolutely desperate to maximize performance down to 25mhz even as well as people worried about long term bending of a chip I suppose its good. Should be something board makers look into to replace the current latch system.
Not sure why you did not include the i5 in having a benefit from using this item as I would assume that it especially 12600k and kf. Correct me if I am wrong.
if i had an i9 i would always chose thermal grezzly becasue there quality ist for sure way better. Who spends this much money for an cpu 40 € or $ should not be that much that u know it is better for ur cpu and tolleranze are for sure less lighly by thermal grizzly becase they want qualty prodults
Not only Thermalright frame is much cheaper, but it also has superior pressure distribution to TG one, making it a better performer. Makes you think what the hell were they thinking...
Do I need to install it with my motherboard off my case? I am thinking if the backplate will fall off if I removed the four screws. Somebody answer please.
There is a huge misunderstanding on your part! you misunderstood the use of that product! in the 12th generation of intel chips, now the motherboard is faulty, it is bent in the chipset part! and the effect of this product is to prevent the motherboard from being curved in the chipset. When the motherboard is bent, the chipset heatsink will not be good, leading to the chipset getting hot! Therefore, the main effect of this product is to prevent curvature in the chipset part of the motherboard, not to help reduce the temperature of the chipset! I personally find this product very convenient because when using it, applying thermal paste will be a lot easier!
It's no wonder your cpu is bending hammering the poor thing like that all the time 😂 I love videos like this, but i feel this is solving a problem 99% of us will never suffer from.
You use way too much thermal paste. All you need is a simple dot in the middle. By doing that weird division sign pattern with too much doesn't improve performance, but it does give you a mess to clean up later.
New Kraken AIO series were just lunched today! Kraken Elite 360mm (new name for Kraken Z series) is one of them. Can you please test it on your 13900K and show us whether EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 or this new Kraken Elite 360mm is better at cooling. Thank you :)
Your test is not very valid. You had cooler as bottleneck. always 100c. so any plate cant help you. and you wont see difference. you had to lower the power so that cpu stay at lets say 90c..and then apply frame and see will it go lower when you know that it cant go higher than 90.
LOL 103C ARE YOU KIDING . I HEARD ABOUT TEMPS ON ROCKET LAKE SO I SAID NO WAY DOES IT RUN THAT HOT SO I GOT ONE FOR GRANDSON PC DIY WATER COOLED A PRO PLUMBING JOB AND IT DOESN'T COME CLOSE TO 80C IN THE R23 10 MIN RUN AND THAT IS NOT WITH COLD WATER START UP EITHER. I WOULD BE EMBARRESSED IF I WERE YOU. LOTS OF YOU UTUBER HARDWARE SALESMAN ALREADY KNOW WHAT I DID WITH ROCKET I EMBARRESSED ALL OF YOU
Im running the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE (single fan only) with the contact bracket from the start on my 13600kf - 5.3ghz all performance cores, 4.3ghz all efficiency cores,ht disabled at 1.28 volts, 200w limit, this combination is crazy for the money, gaming temps are around 60-70 degrees, full load stress testing makes the hottest core go to 90 degrees but never exceeds it. Got everything for about 40ish bucks off amazon
Hm, did you try out this bracket now though? Cause maybe with it, you don't have to limit the power anymore. Please tell me how it is going right now, cause I have the same setup
@@MaryArts also I set the limit of 200w because my z690 pg riptide was allowing it to pull upto 250 which for this specific processor even oc is overkill and a waste of power
I forgot to mention that yes it's completely safe just don't over took the bolts and ya good, also since then I replaced the mx2 paste I used for the included thermalright paste and max core Temps under a 15 minute load of cinebench is 87 degrees no longer 90 and gaming temps are around low 60s sometimes even 50s hope this helps
I do think you should retry this installing in a pattern X and torqueing each 90 degree at a time i feel this test showed ur mounting method caused it to not preform and mount aswell as it can!! gamers nexus video on why this would cause issues explains more
It was hotter after you installed it because it was able to draw more wattage. So, that simply means the benchmark was able to also draw more which will, obviously, add heat. So this is good. Really good. Simply put, the added cooling abilities allows to push the cpus output performance. You would only result in cooler temps if there was a way to cap the wattage usage to match that of the test done before you did the install. That would truly show if it lowers temps.
It can also be useful when overclocking than having motherboard ai or stock marketing junk, manual is a better option to handle better voltages and probably oc to 5.6 to 5.7ghz
No, this is not completely correct. Yes, it dissipated more power (watts) which is why it ran hotter. *BUT the whole idea of this frame is to keep the CPU cooler.* So this is NOT good. This merely showed that the throttling of the CPU was slightly different between the two tests and the software gave a slight advantage to the aftermarket bracket by allowing it to run slightly hotter. I'm willing to bet that if he ran many tests in both before and after configurations and averaged the results out, there would be little to no difference. The biggest factor by far was the overall thermal setup - actual cooler used plus thermal conductivity of the thermal compound.
I do agree with the your last part. The only true comparison is to have both tests dissipate the same amount of power and measure the final temperature difference, if any.
In theory, if this frame was part of the overall cooling frame (e.g. thermal conductive paste between frame and CPU) then the added mass of the new thermal frame would add a tiny bit to the overall heat dissipation. But, then, the original steel bracket would have also added to the overall heat dissipation as well. However, Aluminum makes a better thermal conductor.
@@bigdog8008this is an anti-bending correction frame, not an anti-heating frame 😂😂😂
does it make any difference in gaming ? will u get a higher framerate??
@@redclaw72666 manual oc is NOT better on amd, intels do not have a quick response clock gen like ryzen has, so them constantly running at max clock but reduced bus is ok, but amds cant reduze IF clock, which is why a manual oc´d ryzen will chunk power.
HIgher clock speeds generate more heat, so perhaps by being able to achieve higher clock speeds with the THermalright plate accounts for the slightly higher temps.
Generally, extension of heatspreader. Could work.
My 14900k never goes above 70 degrees with 420mm aio. It used to be very toasty
do a test with thermal paste on the metal to metal contact points so the frame itself can be a heat sink. i think this would be a better test for the ryzen cpu. also imagine if the contact frame was cut so precisely that it could cool off the sides of the cpu as well with applying thermal paste.
I filled the seams with thermal grease🙂
Tighten the screws in a X pattern
use impact gun
@@donloder1 lmao that'll be 6 uggaduggahs a corner
@@02honeydew This made me cry in laughter haha.
@@TheBURBAN111 lmao
He doesnt want to.
I have this for my system running an 13700k. It's crazy how a little $12 device can make a huge difference in temps and performance.
Same CPU with the same bracket, you are correct on your evaluation.
Which temps are you seeing and with what cooler, if you don't mind
@@valensi1988 decrease like 5-10c
Does i really?
@@mass-1128 it does
I've got the Ryzen 7 7700X. I had some weird temperature issues early on. I was just using the standard bracket to lock down the cpu. First couple applications had the cpu hitting the 95 degree mark under any multicore type of load. I saw the AM5 bracket and went with it as it also works as a way of blocking thermal paste from getting to the parts on the pcb. I hadn't even considered the IHS bending. The thing fixed my temps. I definitely recommend that people consider swapping the standard bracket off their AM5 boards.
You should probably still not consider the IHS bending, because it's not doing that, if it was nothing short of bending it back flat would fix it. What is happening is the ILM is too long for a single arm ILM to keep equal pressure on both sides of the IHS so it's allowing the chip to sit unevenly in the socket. Which is why these contact frames actually work.
The contact frame, aside from providing a secure and even mount for the CPU, also provides *more Aluminum MASS that helps to further bleed heat from being connected to the IHS.*
Yes but there is no paste in between the IHS and the frame, so the contact is not optimal
Yes I have a same theory that the contact frame also functions as an "extended" IHS since its also made of metal
@@simonb.8868depends on you base for the cooler and how you apply the thermal paste or graphite pad.
So basically it's a heat sink
no it’s a contact frame for the heatsink to sit on the CPU with even pressure across the entire surface area of said CPU
Got this same exact part for my build (13900k) and it has been a lifesaver, paired with the lt720 aio from deepcool I’ve been able to OC to 6ghz and I’ve never throttled and even under full load for sustained periods I never get higher than 93C temp. Aesthetically (even though you can’t see it once the aio is mounted) it looks better on the motherboard than the default frame too lol.
yes full contact on cpu is best thing
6GHz on AIO? Kudos to you bro.
What thermal paste you're using?
I have bought 13900k, lt720, and now looking at contact frames. 6 Ghz and maximum temp are 93 C, just wow. How is that possible? Is it related to the OC settings? What was your stock results?
@@fatihcicek1858 100c surely as stock ilm's are trash ones
its a worthwhile upgrade to mitigate bending in the long term. the stock ilm has been shown to bend the cpu, keep it mounted for years and countless heat cycles it could become permanent. either frame will prevent this. i have the thermalright installed in 13900k, fast and easy install, with a bit more saftey built in over the thermal grizzly frame.
yeah and what they don't tell you is that it kills the warranty of your motherboard so that little $10 object can turn into what ever the price of your motherboard is to pay again if you ever have an issue with it, better be safe than sorry, won't put my warranty at risk for 5 fps more and 10 degress cooler lol
There was once I release the lever, it skip off my finger because the strength of the lever is quite strong, the cpu jump up a bit, rest on a few pins and cause the pins to bent. I'm so lucky to bend it back to position. I feel that from now on, the socket should follow this type of design. The spring loaded lever is too strong, there is a chance it can skip off the finger because of the curve in/out way of tightening. The spring is shiny stainless steel that made the surface slippery off the finger of the curve in/out way of tightening and release. Now I always place one hand fingers to stop the rectangle metal from spring out that lead the cpu outward force jumping out while release the lever.
Thanks for the review! Great one! Would you mind testing the AM5 model aswell? Watching along the video I was hoping for the AM5 version benchmarks and also your thoughts on wether it could damage some of the components as they're outside the IHS unlike the Intel CPUs
^^ review link fro the am5 doesnt do much considering the am5 was more for thermal paste problem than warping problem like the intel has
It won't damage anything and it's better than original SAM due to it applying even pressure
Why skip the AM5 results?
If you think it makes the CPU faster I have some air to sell you LMAO.....thanks for the vid
The IHS is not bending, the single arm ILM frame is not strong enough to keep pressure on both sides of the CPU causing it to not sit as flat as needed for good cooler contact. If your IHS was bending a contact frame wouldn't solve that issue, the CPU would still be uneven.
This also fixes some problems with heavier dual tower air coolers and certain mobos bending the socket making the ILM frame issue even more pronounced. I've seen 5-10c documented improvements with watercooling running the same voltages and clocks but upwards of 15c cooler temps when using a heavy dual tower air cooler and the contact frame.
I probably didn't really need with my new 13600 build; but for $10 I figured why not? It certainly won't hurt anything.
Late reply, but youll be able to reuse it when and if you upgrade to a 13700/13900 or 14 series as well : )
i dont understand the need im running a 12900ks and never see temps above 60 on full load with a AIO, but if fell like if your buying a higher end processor you can get a AIO
I use this with an i7-12700k and my temps went down by 7-10 Celsius compared to what it originally was. Also, I plan on using the same bracket for an i7-13700k
Dude, you totally hit the things i considering about a hypothetical PC. Thank you so much
He is just always very late compared to the rest of RUclips lol!
I think they used cheaper materials than thermal grizzly did. Just a thought
Was using default type of the frame for my 12600k and it actually stopped working after ~ 1 year. It occurred my CPU bent A LOT and was way too kind of curvy. So, basically, there was no contact between CPU and the socket. I recommend everybody to purchase this 10$ thing, it will save much more
Does your CPU start working again after installing the bracket ? or you had to buy a new one CPU ?
Would like to know too.
Love these videos!! 😤
I previously had the Lian Li Galahad 240mm aio w/ stock fans on my 13700k, and it would get around 84-87c on r23 while never passing 74c while gaming
Changed to the MSI MEG Coreliquid S280mm aio w/ 2 140mm Silent Wing Pro fans, and that exact same contact frame. On r23 it wouldn't pass 74c, and while gaming it wouldn't pass 64c.
My custom fan curve was the same for both, as well as the CPU undervolt.
That thing is still throttling with a 360mm and 30mm fans!!! WTF
DO NOT cinch down the screws, two finger tight only and stop when the screws stops turning, make sure all four are equal, gradually tighten opposite corners a bit at a time. If you're worried about the screws backing out get a threadlock stick and apply to the end of the screw (you could use liquid too but the stick is easier)
Performance of the Thermalright and Thermal Grizzley frames are basically the same except the Thermalright frame is much easier to install. The Thermalright frame sits flush with the MB and the Thermal Grizzley frame floats, with the Thremalright frame you just stop when the screws stop where with the Thermal Grizzley one you have to fiddle with screw tension (ideally use a torque controlled screwdriver).
If you use acetone to clean the CPU don't get it on the plastic "feet" on the ends of the Thermalright frame it will attack the plastic and the adhesive that is used to attach them to the frame.
no way in hell the thermalgrizzly is the same, precision machining is not possible at the 10 bucks price, also the floating is a must.
@@JohnSmith-pn2vlgamers nexus tested and they do perform the same. Thermalright has greater variance in machining precision but not enough to effect thermals
dude wth are doing using acetone anywhere near a motherboard or CPU? even the vapour will depolymerise (i.e. molecularly disintegrate) polycarbonate or ABS. The electrical insulation lamination on PCBs is often PC. There are ABS and PC plastic components across your motherboard and also on the case. Even the shroud on your GPU is made from PC/ABS. You are literally molecularly disintegrating your entire PC. Plus it's flammable, toxic, volatile and a respiratory system irritant.
Use 99% isopropyl alcohol as used and recommended by the manufacturer.
@@Cwronaga216 They made up for that with a better design. In the end they both perform the same.
Hopefully u already know this for 13th gens, but with the high temps I changed the incoming voltage by using the bios settings. There is different voltage profiles and I went to the 4th one down and I get higher speeds and the temperature stays under 75degrees. No more thermal throttle which allowed me to keep on my highest cpu clocks…
I tried 6 other volt profiles and tested each one but it will vary depending on ur cpu…
I am now able to use air cooling on my 13900k and I got 42000 on my last 10 min test.
There are lots of videos on it now but I’m wondering why he isn’t doing that for any of his videos….
I hope he can do a video on his process if he does do it cause then it will help a lot more ppl.
Thank you for all ur hard work! It doesn’t go unnoticed! Lol
could you please share your voltage settings?
@@petbalogh erm i doubt he is staying under 75c with 42k score... my 13900kf cant do that with the bracket and an undervolt... i hit nearly 43k with an oc... 5.9 on 2 cores rest sit at 5.6... and 4.5 on e cores..
@@TheBURBAN111 yes, you are right. So can you please tell me your settings? :)
Intel socket and now AMD did it to, is the most moronic thing i ever saw, u can damage so easily motherboard for hundrets dollars just like that, it is absolute nightmare for me changing rig after 2-3 years, for now i will not buy any intel product if they will not change this ridiculous socket build, and i refuse to buy expensive and power hungry amd, they both dont give us a real chance to enjoy building and using computers
My temps in cinebench r23 went from above 100C with 27k score to 75C with 30k score. I used the Thermal Grizzly contact frame with my 13700k.
Bravo man! This frame, no matter is a little bit tricky to install, must be DeFacto standard! 25% is a Huge difference!
what cooler are you using?
Lol i get 70c in cinebench without this
Good stuff but, you also must have done other things in conjuction as, 25 degrees is way too high of a number for it to only be reflective of a plate. Somewhere between 6-12C is what these plates will give you.
@@potvinsuks8730 If you get unlucky with a particular curved CPU and a cooler curved the other way, this can very much be possible due to bad contact. Also, could have tightened up the screws or changed thermal paste application.
done install it today and making no changes as all to my cpu temp. hmmmmmmm
I lost 10 celcius on idle, and during gaming my cpu doesn't get hotter than 60 celcius, best 15 usd spend ever
Best investment have ever made for my 13700kf temps have been brilliant.
Do we need it for 12400/13400 ????
no u dont! u need it sinds 13600k
old news tbh
Then what about 14th gen?
The Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame is manufactured and produced in Germany and it has lower tolerances than the one from Thermalright. I am using the one from Thermalright, because the Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame wasn't available, when i needed it. The Mounting is also slightly different - Gamers Nexus did a good Video about it.
Edit: I am using an i5 13600k slightly overclocked to 5.4 on the P-Cores, 4.4 on the E-Cores and 4.9 on the Cache with a fixed voltage of 1.26V (equal to stock under load). In my case, i got a 9°C improvement in liquid temperature. The CPU itself was 15°C cooler than before. Testet in Cinebench R23 with a warming up time of 20 minutes and a 30 minute test run - my loop has about 450 to 500ml of coolant and a single 360mm radiator.
this, availability is a bih most of the times i swear. i can barely get my hands on an arctic aio. had to buy it from an unreviewed item online, glad the seller delivered.
And so i opted for thermalright as well.
bro i read it as thermal glizzy frame 💀💀💀💀💀💀💀
The Thermalright frame is much easier to install that was enough for me. If you're going to make a better solution to Intel's over engineered jank then don't replace it with more over engineered jank. (but then the Thermal Grizzley one is german designed and germans are all about over engineered jank)
@@pendrive4real Thermalg rizz ly
No way it's stable at 1.26v. Try compling the shaders on Last of Us 1. It's gonna crash every 20 seconds. That was my experience until I raised the voltage
I have it for the am5 7950x. I knew while purchasing that it won't do much for the temps, maybe 1° here and there. But it's a life saver if you will be constantly changing or removing the cooler. I was waiting on my case, then I knew I would be going custom loop. So it made sense for me buying this. Bought it straight away when I purchased the CPU.
Are If you are like me you might just buy one because having things nice and tidy just makes you feel smarter. I'm not moving CPUs from systems but I could see a lot of value in this even If it is mostly aesthetic for long-term durability. If you have to spend extra to make your system last longer well it's worth it.
@@kissofthecobra3761 keeping it tidy 100%. Even if you are taking the cooler off once every year (which you should always change your themal paste at least a year), it's worth it. It just keeps the whole CPU clean. I don't think it does anything for durability, at least for amd cpus, the whole die is square so it evenly spreads the pressure, unlike intels. Same for the thermals. Doesn't do anything.
I noticed you was talking about bending the CPU, and just recently done a PC upgrade using the Z690 itx m-board with the Intel i9-13900 CPU, in the Asus manual it does say to remove that clear plastic tube that is over the arm that locks down the cover plate for the CPU, and in this video it looks like you still have the shipping cover tube still on the locking arm / lever.
did you know about removing it? i just caught it by chance and so glad i read the manual even for simple things i have done many times in the past.. hope this helps many PC builders out..
In my humble opinion I think you should have test it with PL2 253W so that we can see a clear temperature difference.
The only problem with the "10$ accessory" is that it's a copy of Thermal Grizzly's 40$ "accessory" but it's easy to pull the price down when you don't do any research and just copy someone else work. Just saying.
They actually created theirs before thermal grizzly did so if anything thermal grizzly stole their work and charged a higher price for the same thing 😂
People realized the potential issue and were doing the washer trick way back when the 12th gens first came out.
thermal grizzly decided to see who they could suck 40 dollars from while making a fancy copy of the trick, while other companies did not try to gouge quite so much for the same thing.
Anyone having this one (or Grizzly's) frame for 7950x? If so, do you see any benefits in temps with it? (I've heard AM5 doesn't need this cause they don't have the issue with CPU bending like Intel's 12th and 13th do...
I use one for my 7950x3d. No temp difference, but its nice if you hate it when ur thermal paste drips to the side of ur cpu
@@Centrioless oh, cool man, thanks for the info :)
This Frame 100% works. The Thing is, if your CPU is overheating _heavily_ already, because there is no power limit and you did not do any undervolting, it's hard to see the benefit so easily, since no power-limit means only the temperature is the limit. Which in this case is tjMax 100°C. I have close to 42k with undervolt without power limit on air cooling in Cinebench R23 Multicore. Or 41k with 253W Power Limit.
You didn't even say what CPU you have? Amd or Intel?
@@Slicktune I guess its a 13900K/KF
@@Slicktune well if Power limit max is 253w that intel spec limit for a 13900k
That's when you get a direct-die mounting frame.
I mean the Intel variant. And given example is a 13900K since thats the one showcased in this video.👌
If you are already hitting 330 watts on a 13900k without the contact frame, then your CPU is fine and the contact frame won't do much. The contact frame does wonders when your CPU already hits 100c and throttles at 220 to 250 watts.
I still recommend if you plan to keep your current setup for a long time.
At least you will have even pressure on your chip for how many years you decide to not upgrade.
@@csguak I've had my 12900k from day one without a frame, it works just as good as the first one. Not noticed any difference with temps
its auto vcore causing that power usage... im getting 42k points at 305w...
Just put a small amount of thermal paste in center, don’t spread it around.
Very good presentation. 👍
The only thing I could mention is that we don't know for how long you were using your cooler with the thermal paste before you install the contact frame.
I mean, maybe, you got better results because of applying new thermal paste. In any case, I find this product and its idea that represents great! 👌Thank you for sharing this with us.
Is this TZAG from Sharkyextreme? I was just thinking about your blue PC from back in the day!
is this safe (maybe even safer than normal) to use this with liquid metal??
Anything like this out there for AM4?
No need for AM4 nor AM5 really :)
can you use this contact frame with air coolers?
yes
The second test is 1 degree C higher because it was running 13 seconds longer, as you said. More time, more heat during the test. I just hope that bracket doesn't trap heat on the sides of the CPU. Given the temperature, I think it would be ideal if the bracket was an additional heatsink dissipating the heat from the sides of the CPU. Additional passive cooling combined with good case ventilation. Would love to see a test run then.
I have 13700k i undervolt just -1.000 on bios and now i have max temperature 85 on stress test i think undervolting is helping more
@@hovighovig608 Did that affect performance?
@@THE-X-Force yes just undervolt it now i have max temp on stresstest 84c in games max 73 like nfs unbound
@@hovighovig608 OK but I'm asking if that affected performance as in .. benchmarks .. frames per second .. etc. Sorry.
@@THE-X-Force Month later so not sure how usefull this is, but i have the 13700k. My pc kept overheating to 100C, which made certain games crash under heavy load. Simply turning off CPU Game Boost in Bios completely solved it, and max is now around 85C, no more crashes. I also havent really noticed any difference, but dont have any stats to back that up
does this voids warrenty for both mobo and cpu?
Oh!!! I invested in one when I built my PC last August and have to say my temp is often at max 50 degree unless I am testing my system it will peak at 81 degree. It idles around 30 degrees most of the time. I am using a 12700K, Noctua NH -D15 Chromax. Black and BeQuiet Silent wings 3.
Please help!
I watched your videos on ProArt systems and contact frames and decided to use one on my first build, but have run into a problem.
I bought a ProArt PA602 case, a ProArt LC 420 AIO cooler, and a ProArt Z790 motherboard with an Intel 14900KF processor housed in a Thermal Grizzly contact frame, and tried to put them together. Assembly went normally until I tried to install the waterblock/pump head onto the CPU.
I used the hex-styled standoffs labeled for an LG1700, as per the instructions, and just lightly seated them onto the motherboard, not over-tightening. The Thermal Grizzly contact frame is absolutely not touching or otherwise interfering with the motherboard or CPU fitment. The standoff screws seem not long enough with the included Intel-style backing plate to give any thread to install the thumbscrew caps which fasten down the waterblock/pumphead. There is a gap left beneath the AIO mounting bracket of just about the size I would expect to give enough thread for the thumbscrew caps, if only the waterblock copper face were a bit shorter in height. When settling the waterblock onto the CPU, the tip of each standoff screw just barely comes flush with the outside/top of the waterblock mounting bracket, leaving no thread to fasten them on at all.
I've redone this from scratch twice now, carefully rechecking everything I did, and cannot figure out what the problem is. What am I doing wrong?
im not sure, my 12700k is 30celcius when pusing apex full send, with the standard. This is just a selling commercial. sorry bro
I don't understand why the stock contact frames apply the force of an elephants weight on the CPU. It's ridiculous.
This is completely unnecessary for AMD's CPUs. Simply because they do not bend.
Thermal grizzly is just those typical highway robbers! For a piece of aluminum that will cost only less than $5 in china to produce🤦🏻♂️
I managed to get my 13900k to konstant 70° in Gaming. And this with the almighty Noctua NH-D15. I use the mainboard mounting solution though.
Just found out that here in Sweden i can apparently buy Windows 10 pro for less that 7$ from many different resellers i think whokeys should up there game.
I think WE are the product.....
It's $10, lol you definitely should buy it. It's driving me nuts, everyone out there critiques all of these products and poo-poo a few degrees lower temps, if you purchase (the Best/coolest AIO, etc.) and do things (airflow management, the best Thermal paste, etc.) that can save a few degrees here and there it all starts to add up to a CPU that can run cooler and perform better.
I've been running this exact frame for over two years, I can't tell any difference on my 12600k but I like the way it mounts the cpu.
Not as easy to install as it looks imho. TURN SLOW with a little pressure on cpu at all times to prevent it from moving. Only like approximately 2 rotations needed for the first screw to become so tight that it tilts and rotates the processor + contact frame out of the socket (Luckily no damage to pins). Also you need to install the backplate of the cooler to hold the cpu backplate to the board. So many videos make no mention of this... its the act of rotating the screws counter-clockwise until they click that can cause it to move. When that happens, you gotta find a magnetic screwdriver to lift the screws out so you can peak through the holes and re-align the board with the backplate. Also be mindful of SMD's on the back of the mobo when you put it down. An issue that was specific to me is one of the mobo screws was slightly deformed... it wouldn't let go of the included wrench without a lot of wiggling or tremendous force (to the point of wanting to rip out of the board unless i turned it down 1 and 1/4 times), and it wouldn't click if i turned it counter-clockwise. I had no choice but to just turn all the screws until they just started to tighten and then used a torque screwdriver to finish up the torque pattern (8-9 in-lb worked for me to approximate hand-tightening... for comparison, since no manufacturer of these contact frames wants to specify a torque value, the ThreadRipper processors come with a torque screwdriver that is set to 13 in-lb).
Does anybody know, if this frame somwhow fits on a LGA 1366 motherboard?
I hope they will also make them for older cpu's
The question is also, if we reduce the temperature because of this frame, because it has contact with the heathspreader?...in essence, we increase the thermal mass and surface area of the heathspreader. So it is in our interest that there is not only good mechanical contact between them, but also thermal contact. It would be interesting to see how cold the temperatures would be if you applied an ultra-thin layer of thermal paste to the surfaces where the frame and the heat spreader touch or where the frame presses on the heathspreader.
In that sense, these frames are poorly constructed. Basically, in addition to mechanical rigidity, you should also have as much surface area as possible. I'll try it on my new AM5 system...just a little...a little bit of thermal paste on the contacts of the heatsspreader and the frame can't hurt...just the application should be really minimal, and rather on the frame than on the processor when it's already in the socket ...just less possibility of "accident".
Shouldn‘t you use the Thermal Paste for the New Frame too? That would make Sense to me. On the Video you only used it for the CPU
For such a cheap item, hard to say no to it. At the same time, the benefits just are not sufficient enough to really be worth wild. For people absolutely desperate to maximize performance down to 25mhz even as well as people worried about long term bending of a chip I suppose its good.
Should be something board makers look into to replace the current latch system.
This Makes Your CPU FASTER & COOLER, yes by 1 degree, what a clown !!!
102° ! Man you need to Delid, Liquidmetal and Copper IHS that sucker! 👨🔧
Not sure why you did not include the i5 in having a benefit from using this item as I would assume that it especially 12600k and kf. Correct me if I am wrong.
How can you survive at 25.5°C? My average room temp is 22°C and 24°C is already too much.
if i had an i9 i would always chose thermal grezzly becasue there quality ist for sure way better. Who spends this much money for an cpu 40 € or $ should not be that much that u know it is better for ur cpu and tolleranze are for sure less lighly by thermal grizzly becase they want qualty prodults
This needs to stop. it's not called a temperature meter. It's called a freaking Thermometer! stop making names up :D
Nice informative video
how the hell are you throttling immediatly and got a score of 40k?!! mine did the same but i got 32k!! something ain't right
Ryzen contact frame is much more niche. It isn’t addressing any socket clamp bending. It’s helping you mount a cooler with a direct die delid setup.
what frequency and voltage max are you using? At 5.8 I'm not throttling at all. 93 c max after 10 minutes
Not only Thermalright frame is much cheaper, but it also has superior pressure distribution to TG one, making it a better performer. Makes you think what the hell were they thinking...
Do I need to install it with my motherboard off my case? I am thinking if the backplate will fall off if I removed the four screws. Somebody answer please.
Such things should be unnecessary, the brackets should be just done well from the start...
There is a huge misunderstanding on your part! you misunderstood the use of that product! in the 12th generation of intel chips, now the motherboard is faulty, it is bent in the chipset part! and the effect of this product is to prevent the motherboard from being curved in the chipset. When the motherboard is bent, the chipset heatsink will not be good, leading to the chipset getting hot! Therefore, the main effect of this product is to prevent curvature in the chipset part of the motherboard, not to help reduce the temperature of the chipset! I personally find this product very convenient because when using it, applying thermal paste will be a lot easier!
Wouldn't the cooler surface against the cpu provide enough pressure to keep the cpu from warping??
Thermalright is GOATED, in bang for the buck they have no competition
Fun fact: Thermalright sold these for $5 before Roman developed his own.
🤦😬
$10 my a$$, where can I buy this for actually 10 USD or equivalent Euro ?
Or... you use 4 (nylon) M4 washers (1mm thick) underneath the locking mechanism... problem solved
if you are gaming this is pointless @ a cost of voiding your warranty... plus so people have had memory problem after install
Purchase Der Bauers products and delid your cpu if you really want to reduce Intel temperatures. Can always undervolt
It's no wonder your cpu is bending hammering the poor thing like that all the time 😂 I love videos like this, but i feel this is solving a problem 99% of us will never suffer from.
What if one was to engineer an AIO and support plate in one??? I recon you would have a larger AIO baseplate with a larger coolant distribution area
You use way too much thermal paste. All you need is a simple dot in the middle. By doing that weird division sign pattern with too much doesn't improve performance, but it does give you a mess to clean up later.
New Kraken AIO series were just lunched today! Kraken Elite 360mm (new name for Kraken Z series) is one of them. Can you please test it on your 13900K and show us whether EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 or this new Kraken Elite 360mm is better at cooling. Thank you :)
Why bother with the contact frame at all? The CPU is kept in place by the socket frame, and then the heat sink can just go directly above it?
Your test is not very valid. You had cooler as bottleneck. always 100c. so any plate cant help you. and you wont see difference. you had to lower the power so that cpu stay at lets say 90c..and then apply frame and see will it go lower when you know that it cant go higher than 90.
Just to throw a curve ball. I wonder if there's any difference between the thermal pastes/applications used?
LOL 103C ARE YOU KIDING . I HEARD ABOUT TEMPS ON ROCKET LAKE SO I SAID NO WAY DOES IT RUN THAT HOT SO I GOT ONE FOR GRANDSON PC DIY WATER COOLED A PRO PLUMBING JOB AND IT DOESN'T COME CLOSE TO 80C IN THE R23 10 MIN RUN AND THAT IS NOT WITH COLD WATER START UP EITHER. I WOULD BE EMBARRESSED IF I WERE YOU. LOTS OF YOU UTUBER HARDWARE SALESMAN ALREADY KNOW WHAT I DID WITH ROCKET I EMBARRESSED ALL OF YOU
Im running the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE (single fan only) with the contact bracket from the start on my 13600kf - 5.3ghz all performance cores, 4.3ghz all efficiency cores,ht disabled at 1.28 volts, 200w limit, this combination is crazy for the money, gaming temps are around 60-70 degrees, full load stress testing makes the hottest core go to 90 degrees but never exceeds it. Got everything for about 40ish bucks off amazon
Hm, did you try out this bracket now though? Cause maybe with it, you don't have to limit the power anymore.
Please tell me how it is going right now, cause I have the same setup
@@MaryArts what I meant was from the start when I first built I went with the contact frame I didn't even try without it
@@MaryArts also I set the limit of 200w because my z690 pg riptide was allowing it to pull upto 250 which for this specific processor even oc is overkill and a waste of power
I forgot to mention that yes it's completely safe just don't over took the bolts and ya good, also since then I replaced the mx2 paste I used for the included thermalright paste and max core Temps under a 15 minute load of cinebench is 87 degrees no longer 90 and gaming temps are around low 60s sometimes even 50s hope this helps
@@goodactionshit520 Thank you so much. Gotta buy that frame now. Thank you for the assurance
I do think you should retry this installing in a pattern X and torqueing each 90 degree at a time i feel this test showed ur mounting method caused it to not preform and mount aswell as it can!! gamers nexus video on why this would cause issues explains more
After put thar the clock the cpu is unstable up and down evety time maybe i put much torq????
"Tech Notice", why did you use 420mm Arctic Freezer as your cooler for your new 13900K rig when you said EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 is even better?
Yes used the Arctic, coz it was half installed, still working and it's quieter :)
@@theTechNotice oh, I see. But you still recommend EK-Nucleus Lux, only that it's louder? And what do you mean by "half installed"? :D
Has anyone found an LGA1200 equivalent of this contact frame?