Perfect! I was doing exactly the same diagnostic steps right up to the point where you found voltage at the block. I had exactly the same issue. Ground cable cleaned and tightened and she started right up! Thank you for taking the time to make the video!
Another good video to get some insights and knowledge from; I am always suspicious of a bad ground when there are so many codes being thrown like that.
I'm having this exact issue, down to every step except my starter is getting a signal. I took my alternator in and they say it's fine but it's going down to the same low voltage as the one in the video. The ground above the wheel, where the battery connects to the chassis was rusted though and I just replaced that wire and noticed the side that grounds to the engine/tranny area had some corrosion on it. There is a bad feed coming from somewhere but it seems to leave a trail problems. I think I'll replace the wires mentioned that lead to the power modules and such or at least clean them. This video was extremely helpful and is almost exactly all my issues to a T except my starter seems to be receiving something. I appreciate the video!
I just watched a video I think it was Ivan from Pine Hollow that found a similar problem, ground cable was pretty much in half with his though. 17 pulleys lol I heard that. nice work Ramon.
This was very confusing case study. The way I found bad ground was at the time when I had my ground lead of my meter on transmission case and checking voltage on my ASD relay and I was reading 7.30V but I knew that my feed was good because I already checked it before. Sorry I didn’t film that part. 👍
Pozdrav, poštujem to sto radite i puno sma naučio. Voleo bih da snimite neki video i na drugom kanalu za nas balkance makar jedan mesečno, redovno pratim i klipove na ovom kanalu ali na zalost ne razumem engleski jezik pa dosta stvari ne shvatam. U svakom slucaju hvala puno pozdrav sa Balkana 🙂
I discovered a Click/ No Crank on Silverado in a similar way. I was using a test light checking the crank relay with the test light on B-. I then set the test light on the intake and it lit up. Got lucky on that one and saved me some time.
Yes I knew that. He is youtube star when comes to fixing cars. He is such a good mechanic and great diagnostician. You don’t find guys like him very often.😊👍
Really enjoyed this case study. Very good demonstration of why Bernie Sanders says, "Always connect to battery ground." A few things puzzle me: I wonder how the car was able to startn when customer left home. With a 5V drop to engine ground WITH only KOEO, how in the world could it crank earlier? I can see it running once started due to alternator grounded to block, then when alternator died the system voltage referenced to engine block collapsed and car shut off. I wonder if she got a jump earlier, then ran on alternator til it went on strike. And you said the ground lug & rings looked fine; what a sneaky trap.
Using ground strait from battery is the best way to connect your testing equipment but its not always easily accessible. This also show how DTC can be misleading. I don’t remember all the details but I believe that she was driving and car died in the middle of the road and couldn’t crank it anymore. 👍😊
solid diag and repair, as soon as I saw the PRNDL all lit up up I was suspecting a bad ground. what are the chances of the ground going bad and the alt going bad at the same time ?? crazy . im not surprised that the remaned alt is bad already
the computor turns the relay on when it see's an RPM signal from the crank sensor, if you ever have to test any circiut that is controld by the ASD relay you will have to jump it manually like you did.
@@kyhomegarage3430 yep, that ASD relay turns on the fuel pump too, that was that 1-2 second spike you saw on your scope, that was the fuel pump prime you were seeing, after that it wont come on till it see's an rpm signal. All Dodge and Chrysler products work like that. Great vid.
@ KY Home Garage, can you tell me if you know of anyone who does an update for the early Modis scan tool?? I have the 10.2 version update and I'm just looking for a little newer update.
Great content, The ASD relay actuating for a few seconds when the key was in the on position threw me off too when doing a diag where I don't have PCM ground control. Still stuck with this car, no antitheft code except the PCM is carrying the infamous P0633 which can be a false because the manual says that if an aftermarket was used to program a key or reprogram the PCM, the code is set and can never be removed. My symptoms are like the antitheft is not working correctly and the PCM is not receiving the correct signal to start the engine, currently says SKIM key not programmed and Engine Kill Command in the WCM module. The car also has an aftermarket remote starter and that doesn't start the car either so the key may not be bad. No code in the antitheft indicates that it is working correctly and not detecting any faults. The part I don't get is why is it not flagging a not programmed key when I try to start it or just cycling the key? I also don't see any antitheft lights on the dash including when I just cycle the key to the on position. Currently, the PCM is not grounding the starter relay, if I jump a ground to the ground control, the engine cranks but the injectors are disabled, spark is present. I can actuate the injectors with the scanner so injector controls are possible with the PCM. I'm puzzled by this, it is either the antitheft that is not reporting or the PCM not receiving the signal to turn on. The code P0633 indicates either a key needs programmed or the PCM is faulty. If you have experienced this before, please let me know. Techs that I have seen on Mitchell1, test for power and grounds to PCM which I have done, check for codes in the antitheft (which I don't have) and they call the PCM being bad. I went further by testing coils, ASD relay & the P/N ground coming from the transmission which is also a factor for no ground control from what I read in the manual and it is present. At this point it is either the PCM or WCM not reporting/communicating correctly.
I had a car this last summer that was no start due to a bad ground and it did control coils but I wouldn’t control injectors. Do you have signal from cam and crank sensor? ruclips.net/video/FyinO_TIkc8/видео.html
@@kyhomegarage3430 Sorry KY, the coils are actuating but the injectors are disabled. The NGC/SKREEM status reads "Engine Kill Command", I just went to diagnose a similar Durango just 1 year older, a 2004 and the SKIM key set to "false" is normal since that is the other tech, this uses SKREEM and the Engine Kill Command is not normal, it should read normal from what I said on the other Durango. Weird thing is that I don't have a code at the WCM module, the PCM has the typical P0633 along with bank 2 heater control high & TPS circuit high as well. I checked the high circuit at the TPS and it is indeed almost 5 volts (4.7 to be exact) & it does not pull down when I connect it to the sensor which it should since the throttle plate is almost closed. The thing that I"m having is that it won't crank at all, the relay ground control is missing from the PCM which I believed is due to the "Engine Kill Command at the NGC/SKREEM status.
Perfect! I was doing exactly the same diagnostic steps right up to the point where you found voltage at the block. I had exactly the same issue. Ground cable cleaned and tightened and she started right up! Thank you for taking the time to make the video!
I am glad this was helpful my friend. Cheers
Another good video to get some insights and knowledge from; I am always suspicious of a bad ground when there are so many codes being thrown like that.
Thank you sir!
Nicely done. Tricky one to rationalize. You fixed it in the end. 👍
Thank you my friend 😊👍
I'm having this exact issue, down to every step except my starter is getting a signal. I took my alternator in and they say it's fine but it's going down to the same low voltage as the one in the video.
The ground above the wheel, where the battery connects to the chassis was rusted though and I just replaced that wire and noticed the side that grounds to the engine/tranny area had some corrosion on it. There is a bad feed coming from somewhere but it seems to leave a trail problems.
I think I'll replace the wires mentioned that lead to the power modules and such or at least clean them. This video was extremely helpful and is almost exactly all my issues to a T except my starter seems to be receiving something. I appreciate the video!
You are a very calm and warm person, it is very nice to listen to you. Very good diagnostics. Greetings from Poland.
Thank you so much for a such nice comment my friend. I am originally from ex Yugoslavia close to your country.😊👍
@@kyhomegarage3430 Car diagnostics is my great passion. I really like watching your movies. Good luck👍
Great diagnostic and repair. Nice case study. Tnanks for sharing. Regards sir.
Thank you my friend.👍😊
Excellent diagnosis Ramon. Thanks!
Thank you my friend 😊👍
Interessting diag, thanks for your Videos. Good time for you ramon. Thanks, all good for you.
I just watched a video I think it was Ivan from Pine Hollow that found a similar problem, ground cable was pretty much in half with his though. 17 pulleys lol I heard that. nice work Ramon.
This one kick my butt for sure my friend . DTC were completely misleading.👍😊
Ramon, am kind confused with this i have to watch the video again to see how u reached to solve the problem as always good information.
This was very confusing case study. The way I found bad ground was at the time when I had my ground lead of my meter on transmission case and checking voltage on my ASD relay and I was reading 7.30V but I knew that my feed was good because I already checked it before. Sorry I didn’t film that part. 👍
mine did this on tuesday . then died . but i think someone messed with my fuse box ! these criminals tampered with my car the night before
Pozdrav, poštujem to sto radite i puno sma naučio. Voleo bih da snimite neki video i na drugom kanalu za nas balkance makar jedan mesečno, redovno pratim i klipove na ovom kanalu ali na zalost ne razumem engleski jezik pa dosta stvari ne shvatam. U svakom slucaju hvala puno pozdrav sa Balkana 🙂
Hvala na podršci dragi kolega. Nadam se da çu u dogledno vrijeme snimiti nesto materijala za drugi kanal.👍😊
@@kyhomegarage3430 Hvala puno na odgovoru, jedva cekam novi video 🙂
I discovered a Click/ No Crank on Silverado in a similar way. I was using a test light checking the crank relay with the test light on B-. I then set the test light on the intake and it lit up. Got lucky on that one and saved me some time.
Bad ground can really mess you up. It affects modules and you deal with DTC that had nothing to do with real problem.😊👍
Good work
Awesome
Always enjoy your video's. You probably knew this, but did you realize Eric from SMA subscribes to your channel? You keep us grounded. :)
Yes I knew that. He is youtube star when comes to fixing cars. He is such a good mechanic and great diagnostician. You don’t find guys like him very often.😊👍
Good work. So you got my subscription. .!
Thank you my friend.👍😊
thanks for sharing
Thank you my friend 😊👍
Really enjoyed this case study. Very good demonstration of why Bernie Sanders says, "Always connect to battery ground." A few things puzzle me: I wonder how the car was able to startn when customer left home. With a 5V drop to engine ground WITH only KOEO, how in the world could it crank earlier? I can see it running once started due to alternator grounded to block, then when alternator died the system voltage referenced to engine block collapsed and car shut off. I wonder if she got a jump earlier, then ran on alternator til it went on strike. And you said the ground lug & rings looked fine; what a sneaky trap.
Using ground strait from battery is the best way to connect your testing equipment but its not always easily accessible. This also show how DTC can be misleading. I don’t remember all the details but I believe that she was driving and car died in the middle of the road and couldn’t crank it anymore. 👍😊
From here on out I’m checking for voltage have been load testing my grounds but that doesn’t work for computer controlled cars.
thank for video
Normal function for ASD is to look for cam and crank signal. No or bad signal turns it off.
Great Video very detailed Chry/Fiat is a national disaster with there TIPM and poor wiring again Thank You for a Great Diag...
Thank you my friend. This one got me good.😊
I think scanner did a video on the same issue. Because of that video block ground was my suspicion from the start.
Hello, I have a 2011 avenger. I've installed a new alternator, battery and ECU. And I'm still getting a P0622 code intermittently? Any advice?
solid diag and repair, as soon as I saw the PRNDL all lit up up I was suspecting a bad ground. what are the chances of the ground going bad and the alt going bad at the same time ?? crazy . im not surprised that the remaned alt is bad already
Very unusual case for sure. I am glad it’s fixed.👍😊
@@kyhomegarage3430 makes one wonder if the bad ground could have messed up the alternator somehow?
My voltmeter showed 1.7V with the key on and jumped to 3V when you hit the starter.
good lesson, thanks for sharing.
Thank you my friend. I am glad you liked it.😊👍
the computor turns the relay on when it see's an RPM signal from the crank sensor, if you ever have to test any circiut that is controld by the ASD relay you will have to jump it manually like you did.
Thank you my friend. Now I know. It was very confusing to me at the time but now it make sense.👍😊
@@kyhomegarage3430 yep, that ASD relay turns on the fuel pump too, that was that 1-2 second spike you saw on your scope, that was the fuel pump prime you were seeing, after that it wont come on till it see's an rpm signal. All Dodge and Chrysler products work like that. Great vid.
@ KY Home Garage, can you tell me if you know of anyone who does an update for the early Modis scan tool?? I have the 10.2 version update and I'm just looking for a little newer update.
Great content,
The ASD relay actuating for a few seconds when the key was in the on position threw me off too when doing a diag where I don't have PCM ground control. Still stuck with this car, no antitheft code except the PCM is carrying the infamous P0633 which can be a false because the manual says that if an aftermarket was used to program a key or reprogram the PCM, the code is set and can never be removed. My symptoms are like the antitheft is not working correctly and the PCM is not receiving the correct signal to start the engine, currently says SKIM key not programmed and Engine Kill Command in the WCM module. The car also has an aftermarket remote starter and that doesn't start the car either so the key may not be bad.
No code in the antitheft indicates that it is working correctly and not detecting any faults. The part I don't get is why is it not flagging a not programmed key when I try to start it or just cycling the key? I also don't see any antitheft lights on the dash including when I just cycle the key to the on position. Currently, the PCM is not grounding the starter relay, if I jump a ground to the ground control, the engine cranks but the injectors are disabled, spark is present. I can actuate the injectors with the scanner so injector controls are possible with the PCM. I'm puzzled by this, it is either the antitheft that is not reporting or the PCM not receiving the signal to turn on. The code P0633 indicates either a key needs programmed or the PCM is faulty.
If you have experienced this before, please let me know. Techs that I have seen on Mitchell1, test for power and grounds to PCM which I have done, check for codes in the antitheft (which I don't have) and they call the PCM being bad. I went further by testing coils, ASD relay & the P/N ground coming from the transmission which is also a factor for no ground control from what I read in the manual and it is present. At this point it is either the PCM or WCM not reporting/communicating correctly.
I had a car this last summer that was no start due to a bad ground and it did control coils but I wouldn’t control injectors. Do you have signal from cam and crank sensor?
ruclips.net/video/FyinO_TIkc8/видео.html
@@kyhomegarage3430 Sorry KY, the coils are actuating but the injectors are disabled. The NGC/SKREEM status reads "Engine Kill Command", I just went to diagnose a similar Durango just 1 year older, a 2004 and the SKIM key set to "false" is normal since that is the other tech, this uses SKREEM and the Engine Kill Command is not normal, it should read normal from what I said on the other Durango. Weird thing is that I don't have a code at the WCM module, the PCM has the typical P0633 along with bank 2 heater control high & TPS circuit high as well. I checked the high circuit at the TPS and it is indeed almost 5 volts (4.7 to be exact) & it does not pull down when I connect it to the sensor which it should since the throttle plate is almost closed. The thing that I"m having is that it won't crank at all, the relay ground control is missing from the PCM which I believed is due to the "Engine Kill Command at the NGC/SKREEM status.
1👍👍
I just change my ecm and it still won’t turn over all its doing is cranking
Excellent diagnosis Ramon. Thanks!
Thank you my friend.👍😊