1:45 you saved my projector man, you're a life saver, i blew compressed air in there and it worked. my hd131x had dust visible all over the image, with help from your vids i dismantled all the projector, perfectly cleaned it and now it works like day 1, the image is crystal clear. many, many thanks
Thank you! This video will help me clean the optics of my Optoma HD27. I had successfully replaced a worn out color wheel. But in so doing, I naively tried to clean the dust out of the general chamber by crude blowing. I noticed a bunch of spots in the blacks of the video. I've ordered lens cleaning solution and non-abrasive lens cleaning cloth to wipe the dust off the lens and the mirror elements. Thanks for mentioning that the mirror is front face and must be delicately handled (if at all). I'll be extremely careful. But I believe that is where most of the troubling dust particles are. I suspect the mirror dust is the culprit because when I zoomed and focused the lens, all of the dust particles came into sharp focus when turning midway along the focus ring... so I'm guessing if they're all sharply focused on one flat plane, it must be the flat plane of the reflective mirror. I think I had just blown too hard and too indiscriminately when I first oepne up the chamber. I'm a newbie. I do love this HD27 projector. Have had it for close to eight years now.
They're nice projectors. Even today. Just take your time and don't overdo it. They are made to run with some dust. If your lamp is newish and the unit is fairly clean it should be fine for you.
@@FixitFrank Yes. The HD27 is a great projector, especially for its humble price range. I now believe it was dust that was on the DMD chip itself or more likely the front face mirror --it had to be a flat plane where the dust had settled (because I could focus on all of it turning the focus ring). As you suggested, I did not overdo it. I used a hand blower (used for photo camera and darkroom and a lint-free lens wipe on the DMD plane. I also had to adjust the light tunnel to align the image. I had been noticing a horizontal shadow band (with a somewhat blurry refractive edge) on the top quarter of the projected image. At first I kept thinking the shape lens between the front face mirror and the DMD was not seated securely. But eventually I realized it was that I had probably loosened or tightened the light tunnel's spring screws to misalign its position (I'm clearly a newbie at this). When I adjusted the tunnel's screws the shadow band started to move out of the way. What is amazing about this DLP is how the column of the light tunnel, the lenses and mirror all focus the beam of light direct onto what is essentially a plane of mirrors in an array. Instead of transmitting light through a film, it reflects light off a reflective film (image) plane. And the source light's area of coverage must be distributed evenly incident to this image plane (DMD)... it's quite amazing! The color wheel spins to project only one specific bandwidth of color at a time, but at a speed such that the neuro-cognitive phenomenon of persistence of vision causes our brain to recognize the normal gamut of tones and colors of the photographic image. With your help I replaced the color wheel, opened and cleaned the pre-projector lens and mirror housing, adjusted the light tunnel, and didn't have to buy a whole new projector and keep enjoying this eight years old Optoma. Thank you. And I really learned something by doing.
Thank you! I have had spots on my Optoma HD143X image for 6 months! I keep taking it apart and cleaning different parts of the lens assembly, but I couldn’t get rid of the spots. Blasting the DLP with some canned air cleaned the image up completely!
Thank you! Saved the day after I was a bit heavy handed trying to clean the dust out from the fan inside the projector. I guess it blew right through to the lens area and caused a ton of spots. Managed to clean them all out and the image is perfect again!
Wow. The chip is very easy to access and clean. I remember cleaning the chip from my Acer P1500. It was a major pain in the ass to get to the chip itself. Very good design by Optoma. I bought a HD144x and hope, that the chip is easy accessable as well.
Thanks ! Found this very helpful, had dust inside the lens, showing a lighter marks in a dark scene. Followed the tips in cleaning by the DLP chip and all is great now. My projector is an Optoma HD131x but very similar inside.
I think Optoma uses this chassis for quite a few. If you search for a lamp, many sites list the other models the lamp will fit into. That is a good gauge of the similar chassis. Thanks so much for your comment! This is why I post videos.
You are one clever man! i have the optima hd131xe after seeing its picture quality i will never buy an epson again, on mine though i think the light tunnels shifted as its slightly brighter on the right hand side of the screen, i need to take it apart and do a setup and full clean of the lens assemblies, great video mate! An English subscriber. PS could you please do a video on the light rod adjustment? cheers.
Thank you for the kind words! I love the HD131 and its related models. I think Optoma messed up when they stopped using that base chassis in it's projectors. I will see what I can do. I have 2 videos that I have not uploaded with light rod adjustments because I lost the end footage on one video and some other parts of the video were lost on the other. I should upload them anyway and then I can narrate or overdub the missing parts. I also have an HD20 that needs a new power supply but I could show how to adjust the light rod in that unit. It might take me a week (with the day job and all) but I will get you a video to adjust that. I think it's a grand idea and would be very helpful to a lot of people. Thanks for suggesting it and the subscription. I do appreciate it! -Frank
This is a great video, many thanks Frank. I have a slight darker mark on the very far left of the picture which I assume is dust, and the shape changed slightly quite recently otherwise it is clear. I just cant seem to shift it. However the bulb is on 4k hours, could that be the problem?
I'd try a new bulb first. Mainly because of the age and it's the easiest thing to change. Plus without a known good bulb, you might end up running in circles. It also could be a light tunnel problem or dust. But start with the bulb and see how that goes.
@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank. I was debating buying a new Optoma but I got a replacement bulb for £90 (not the whole assembly but they are easy enough to change). Can you damage the glass just infront of the bulb in the assembly by cleaning it or is it best left alone?
Hello frank great videos keep up the good work. I’m currently in process of cleaning a Acer p1525 DLP projector. I just wanted your advice would you recommend IPA 99.99% liquid based with Q-tips to clean the glass colour wheel as well as DMD chip and mirrors inside optical assembly? If not what’s the next best cleaning agent? Many thanks Mike from U.K.
Hello! I prefer to use Chamois tipped swabs myself(MG Chemicals #810D-50). They do not leave lint as a cotton bud would do. I then use anhydrous IPA and kimwipes. It really depends on how dusty. I used to clean a lot more until I found that it doesnt always help and you can cause more problems. The internal mirror for instance, can be scratched easily since it is a first surface. The Chamois do not seem to scratch it. Now, I tend to see if there is built up dust or just a thin layer. I will hit it with air and leave the rest. The projectors are designed to handle some dust without issue. Less is more. However, if they need cleaning, 99.9IPA, chamois and kimwipes are a good direction. I know there are a lot of advertised cleaners but I have not found them to be any more beneficial. I may be wrong on that but so far I do not see any reason to use them. For lenses I use normal lens cleaner and a kimwipe. It does not damage the anti glare coating as far as I can tell. I buy the medium priced stuff. Brands vary but I have not noticed any difference between one over another.
Hi mate I have a hd141x and I tried compressed Air which did make it better but it looks a little like my focus is out as the picture at the bottom is focused but the top of the image is slightly blurry ? I can't seem to get focus across the whole image any ideas ?
Thats a tough one. It could be a few things. Anything from a failing DMD all the way to some miss aligned optics. Dust is always a possibility since you might be noticing some. Good luck, take your time and take lots of pictures.
@@FixitFrank is there a way to get to the lenses and clean them without taking everything out ? I managed to clean it and get a better imagine from doing my best through the little gap/plastic cover but there's still dust marks on the lenses
maybe. You might be able to remove screws that hold the lens assembly into the optic module. If those screws are accessible, then you may want to try that route.
So I have a rainbow colored smudge from what appears to be a hair that somehow got lodged into the light path of my Optoma hd29 Darbee. I disassembled it and removed that little black access panel to spray some air into. Unfortunately, it didn't do squat. When I remove the entire optic assembly like you did, would the hair be on one of those lenses/mirror? Or do I have to look somewhere else? Thank you!
Hello Frank! Nice vid! A question: is there a glass (like a protective glass) on the DLP chip? I got a number of small black/grey spots on my screen when zooming in to smallest picture size...they can be focused on, and look like tiny bugs / dust under a microscope :D ...If there is a glass over the DLP chip, I think they might be on that, but if there is a glass over the tiny mirrors in the chip, it would be relatively easy to clean it with wiping I guess :)
Thank you! The front of the chip is glass, but some dust is expected. I have found that when a lamp is wearing out, they are no longer able to shine past the dust. I would recommend replacing the lamp first if it is over 1500 hours. If your lamp is worn and going bad, no matter how clean the glass is, you will see specs. All of that said, if you want to post a picture of your screen on imgur.com and share a link here, I can look at see if I am on the right path with my advice.
Thanks for the advice! I replaced the lamp in my Optoma hd26 approx a week ago after the 5000 hours limit was reached. I saw these spots earlier, but did not have the courage to interact with the DLP chip in any way. But based on what you wrote, I just blew off the dust from the DLP glass, and now, it is as good as new...so good, that my buddy is coming over this afternoon, so we can clean his too :D Edit: For those who are in the same shoes, it is approx a 15 mins job together with assembly. Blowing it with compressed air worked 100%, I did not even touch the DLP glass, or the lense in front of it.
Hello again mate, another thing i will mention about optoma projectors, while theyre excellent, the thermal paste they use is absolute garbage, i just replaced the thermal grease on my optoma hd131xe, it was coming up with false fan errors, after replacing the tim its working perfect.
I wonder why the designers do things like that. I see great designs compromised to mediocre because they are using half asses parts to save a few beans. I like those heat transfer pads alright, but I prefer some good arctic silver paste(or whatever they call it on fleabay).
Its texas instruments fault mate, they supply the terrible compound with the chips, it would cost optoma literally 5 quid for thermal paste in 25 projectors, this is one of the most important things, constant use without adequate cooling will destroy the sensor chip, luckily optomas firmware catches it just in time and shuts the projector down I just applied arctic mx4 (stellar stuff) its dropped temps massively
@@Synthematix Hope you're well! I don't have the exact info for the hd131 but I suspect it's the same code as the hd25/hd20. Try (power, up, right, up, left, menu). If not, then try (power, left, left, menu). The second is the original method. The first is the updated method. It works on a lot of optoma, so I think it will work out for you. Good to hear from you
@@FixitFrank Thanks mate up right up left menu worked! thanks a lot! i needed to adjust the colourwheel as the calibration was a little off, gotta tell ya the picture now is absolutely beautiful! vivid colour and bright, i think i need to use a better paint on my wall though, its absorbing ambient light too much.
Hi Frank, well done, very useful video for people (like me) who like fixing stuff on their own. I cleaned the colour wheel on my Optoma HD20 and I am thinking of cleaning the optical assembly and check the lens, as there still some issue with the projected image. I got the contrast and luminosity back with the cleaned colour wheel, but there still is some image defect visible: I would define it as a "light leak" inside one of the corners of the projected image, visible only on a black screen (or dark scenes) that gradually disappear towards the center of the image. Because of the gradient nature of the image defect, I tend to believe it's an optical issue. Have you encountered something similar?
@@kmare Unfortunately no. I didn't open the optical assembly, it seemed too much of a challenge. Ended up with a different Optoma H20, and with plenty of spare parts :). That came in handy, as the mainboard needed replacement at some point. The optical assembly of this second unit doesn't have the same light bleed problem. It's not perfect, but it does the job.
@@horiamarusca really appreciate the response -- i'm hesitant to take apart too, bright scenes are perfect, its just the dark scene uniformity. Maybe @fixitfrank has some ideas too. Didnt really seem to be much info on the net re: fixing uniformity for any DLP
Hello Frank -- unrelated but any ideas why my HD20 has dark scene uniformity on the top right corner? Similar question was asked a few years back -- your suggestion was to check the integrator / light tunnel. Definately don't think light tunnel becuase I dont see any hardlines .Its just a glow in the top right
@@FixitFrank drive.google.com/file/d/1YJDljlMWlQkMTcHK6UtBaAJOOBTlm7YX/view?usp=drivesdk so I can see the uniformity is not just the top right in the photo. Amazing how your eyes mislead you
@@FixitFrank I've ordered a condenser (Cresent shaped) lens. What I found was the plastic lens had small cracks in the coating and was hazing. I tried polishing which of course did not remove the internal Haze. It did remove the cracks but also the lens coating. I'll report back, supposed to be a glass lens. I don't know if grey market lenses are real, have correct coatings etc. New glass lens was OEM and fixed issue. Thank you fixit!!
@fixitfrank thank you so much for your videos! replaced with a glass lens; picture is 100% uniform now. I have a little bit of bleed around the screen, not noticable except in dark scenese. Not sure if further messing is worth it
hi there.. I have an Optoma Hd141x, are you sure at 03:58 what you see is direct DLP chip or is that a optical light mask, as I can see in hd20 service manual .The ceramic in my lamp came off and was spreading the ceramic powder all across the projector. I was cleaning and blowing off dust inside my projector when I think it deposited on this part. Using q tip hasnt helped and I think q tip has rather scratched it. When properly focused I can see all that debris on projection surface. This assembly was earlier spotless.Will really appreciate if you could help on this ?
That is an annoying problem to have. I would go over all of the optics for dust. It may be i n the barrel section. Between the integrator and main DLP area. You may want to unscrew the lens to check its surface also. That dust could be everywhere. A total tear-down/cleaning might be in order. It is safe to do if you go slow and take lots of pictures to make sure all the lenses go back facing the right direction and in the correct order. The scratches should not affect your image too much if they are not deep. There is a slight allowance where the light will shine past them.
FixitFrank thanks mate. I can clearly see the position of dust .. the area of lens, reflective mirror is mostly clean. It’s the dust on the DMD chip or the DMD mask ( if it has one and gives me hope that the chip is fine) which is the problem. with a torch and correctly focused lens I could clean it BUT anything everything seems to scratch it . I live in India and got it from UK with limited stuff on Internet I am having a strong guilt and sleepless night over screwing my projector.
ahh. I see what you mean. Try some keyboard putty to remove it. Its that sticky 'goo' that you can peal up after laying down. It wont drag the material across the glass. you'll have to clean the residue(kind of greasy) off the glass but its not as bad as ceramic powder.
Hi, so I cleaned everything with you tips and get more light and better colors. I have new lamp (same grey spots also appeared with my old lamp) and now I got this issue after cleaning; imgur.com/a/v6fpKCz There is dust some new place?
@@FixitFrank It was just a dust and dirt. Hard to clean the dmd. Used lenscleaner and microfibre. Always some dirt stays on it. And after five or more wipings its going to scratch dmd :( Anyways it doesent effect the picture and i get most spots away. My another hd25e shows dead pixel on white screen and lower resolution..
1:45 you saved my projector man, you're a life saver, i blew compressed air in there and it worked. my hd131x had dust visible all over the image, with help from your vids i dismantled all the projector, perfectly cleaned it and now it works like day 1, the image is crystal clear. many, many thanks
Thank you! This video will help me clean the optics of my Optoma HD27. I had successfully replaced a worn out color wheel. But in so doing, I naively tried to clean the dust out of the general chamber by crude blowing. I noticed a bunch of spots in the blacks of the video. I've ordered lens cleaning solution and non-abrasive lens cleaning cloth to wipe the dust off the lens and the mirror elements. Thanks for mentioning that the mirror is front face and must be delicately handled (if at all). I'll be extremely careful. But I believe that is where most of the troubling dust particles are. I suspect the mirror dust is the culprit because when I zoomed and focused the lens, all of the dust particles came into sharp focus when turning midway along the focus ring... so I'm guessing if they're all sharply focused on one flat plane, it must be the flat plane of the reflective mirror. I think I had just blown too hard and too indiscriminately when I first oepne up the chamber. I'm a newbie. I do love this HD27 projector. Have had it for close to eight years now.
They're nice projectors. Even today. Just take your time and don't overdo it. They are made to run with some dust. If your lamp is newish and the unit is fairly clean it should be fine for you.
@@FixitFrank Yes. The HD27 is a great projector, especially for its humble price range. I now believe it was dust that was on the DMD chip itself or more likely the front face mirror --it had to be a flat plane where the dust had settled (because I could focus on all of it turning the focus ring). As you suggested, I did not overdo it. I used a hand blower (used for photo camera and darkroom and a lint-free lens wipe on the DMD plane. I also had to adjust the light tunnel to align the image. I had been noticing a horizontal shadow band (with a somewhat blurry refractive edge) on the top quarter of the projected image. At first I kept thinking the shape lens between the front face mirror and the DMD was not seated securely. But eventually I realized it was that I had probably loosened or tightened the light tunnel's spring screws to misalign its position (I'm clearly a newbie at this). When I adjusted the tunnel's screws the shadow band started to move out of the way. What is amazing about this DLP is how the column of the light tunnel, the lenses and mirror all focus the beam of light direct onto what is essentially a plane of mirrors in an array. Instead of transmitting light through a film, it reflects light off a reflective film (image) plane. And the source light's area of coverage must be distributed evenly incident to this image plane (DMD)... it's quite amazing! The color wheel spins to project only one specific bandwidth of color at a time, but at a speed such that the neuro-cognitive phenomenon of persistence of vision causes our brain to recognize the normal gamut of tones and colors of the photographic image. With your help I replaced the color wheel, opened and cleaned the pre-projector lens and mirror housing, adjusted the light tunnel, and didn't have to buy a whole new projector and keep enjoying this eight years old Optoma. Thank you. And I really learned something by doing.
Thank you! I have had spots on my Optoma HD143X image for 6 months! I keep taking it apart and cleaning different parts of the lens assembly, but I couldn’t get rid of the spots. Blasting the DLP with some canned air cleaned the image up completely!
Thank you! Saved the day after I was a bit heavy handed trying to clean the dust out from the fan inside the projector. I guess it blew right through to the lens area and caused a ton of spots. Managed to clean them all out and the image is perfect again!
how difficult was it?
Wow. The chip is very easy to access and clean. I remember cleaning the chip from my Acer P1500. It was a major pain in the ass to get to the chip itself. Very good design by Optoma. I bought a HD144x and hope, that the chip is easy accessable as well.
Thanks ! Found this very helpful, had dust inside the lens, showing a lighter marks in a dark scene. Followed the tips in cleaning by the DLP chip and all is great now. My projector is an Optoma HD131x but very similar inside.
I think Optoma uses this chassis for quite a few. If you search for a lamp, many sites list the other models the lamp will fit into. That is a good gauge of the similar chassis. Thanks so much for your comment! This is why I post videos.
I got dust on one of optoma projectors I got so this will help out with the clean up. Thank you.
Thank you very much! that helped me cleaning my Optoma HD36 and I made a video for that
Fantastic! I posted a link to you your video on the community tab. I know it will help people. Thank you!
You are one clever man! i have the optima hd131xe after seeing its picture quality i will never buy an epson again, on mine though i think the light tunnels shifted as its slightly brighter on the right hand side of the screen, i need to take it apart and do a setup and full clean of the lens assemblies, great video mate! An English subscriber. PS could you please do a video on the light rod adjustment? cheers.
Thank you for the kind words! I love the HD131 and its related models. I think Optoma messed up when they stopped using that base chassis in it's projectors. I will see what I can do. I have 2 videos that I have not uploaded with light rod adjustments because I lost the end footage on one video and some other parts of the video were lost on the other. I should upload them anyway and then I can narrate or overdub the missing parts. I also have an HD20 that needs a new power supply but I could show how to adjust the light rod in that unit.
It might take me a week (with the day job and all) but I will get you a video to adjust that. I think it's a grand idea and would be very helpful to a lot of people. Thanks for suggesting it and the subscription. I do appreciate it! -Frank
This is a great video, many thanks Frank. I have a slight darker mark on the very far left of the picture which I assume is dust, and the shape changed slightly quite recently otherwise it is clear. I just cant seem to shift it. However the bulb is on 4k hours, could that be the problem?
I'd try a new bulb first. Mainly because of the age and it's the easiest thing to change. Plus without a known good bulb, you might end up running in circles. It also could be a light tunnel problem or dust. But start with the bulb and see how that goes.
@@FixitFrank Will do. Many thanks!
@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank. I was debating buying a new Optoma but I got a replacement bulb for £90 (not the whole assembly but they are easy enough to change). Can you damage the glass just infront of the bulb in the assembly by cleaning it or is it best left alone?
Hello frank great videos keep up the good work. I’m currently in process of cleaning a Acer p1525 DLP projector. I just wanted your advice would you recommend IPA 99.99% liquid based with Q-tips to clean the glass colour wheel as well as DMD chip and mirrors inside optical assembly?
If not what’s the next best cleaning agent?
Many thanks
Mike from U.K.
Hello! I prefer to use Chamois tipped swabs myself(MG Chemicals #810D-50). They do not leave lint as a cotton bud would do. I then use anhydrous IPA and kimwipes. It really depends on how dusty. I used to clean a lot more until I found that it doesnt always help and you can cause more problems. The internal mirror for instance, can be scratched easily since it is a first surface. The Chamois do not seem to scratch it. Now, I tend to see if there is built up dust or just a thin layer. I will hit it with air and leave the rest. The projectors are designed to handle some dust without issue. Less is more. However, if they need cleaning, 99.9IPA, chamois and kimwipes are a good direction.
I know there are a lot of advertised cleaners but I have not found them to be any more beneficial. I may be wrong on that but so far I do not see any reason to use them. For lenses I use normal lens cleaner and a kimwipe. It does not damage the anti glare coating as far as I can tell. I buy the medium priced stuff. Brands vary but I have not noticed any difference between one over another.
very helpful! thumbs up and subscribe! thanks for your work
Thanks for the sub! I appreciate it very much!
Hi mate I have a hd141x and I tried compressed Air which did make it better but it looks a little like my focus is out as the picture at the bottom is focused but the top of the image is slightly blurry ? I can't seem to get focus across the whole image any ideas ?
There is also some dust still on the image so I may need to take the whole thing apart and clean it like you have here
Thats a tough one. It could be a few things. Anything from a failing DMD all the way to some miss aligned optics. Dust is always a possibility since you might be noticing some. Good luck, take your time and take lots of pictures.
@@FixitFrank is there a way to get to the lenses and clean them without taking everything out ? I managed to clean it and get a better imagine from doing my best through the little gap/plastic cover but there's still dust marks on the lenses
maybe. You might be able to remove screws that hold the lens assembly into the optic module. If those screws are accessible, then you may want to try that route.
So I have a rainbow colored smudge from what appears to be a hair that somehow got lodged into the light path of my Optoma hd29 Darbee.
I disassembled it and removed that little black access panel to spray some air into. Unfortunately, it didn't do squat. When I remove the entire optic assembly like you did, would the hair be on one of those lenses/mirror? Or do I have to look somewhere else?
Thank you!
Hello Frank! Nice vid! A question: is there a glass (like a protective glass) on the DLP chip? I got a number of small black/grey spots on my screen when zooming in to smallest picture size...they can be focused on, and look like tiny bugs / dust under a microscope :D ...If there is a glass over the DLP chip, I think they might be on that, but if there is a glass over the tiny mirrors in the chip, it would be relatively easy to clean it with wiping I guess :)
Thank you! The front of the chip is glass, but some dust is expected. I have found that when a lamp is wearing out, they are no longer able to shine past the dust. I would recommend replacing the lamp first if it is over 1500 hours. If your lamp is worn and going bad, no matter how clean the glass is, you will see specs.
All of that said, if you want to post a picture of your screen on imgur.com and share a link here, I can look at see if I am on the right path with my advice.
Thanks for the advice! I replaced the lamp in my Optoma hd26 approx a week ago after the 5000 hours limit was reached. I saw these spots earlier, but did not have the courage to interact with the DLP chip in any way. But based on what you wrote, I just blew off the dust from the DLP glass, and now, it is as good as new...so good, that my buddy is coming over this afternoon, so we can clean his too :D
Edit: For those who are in the same shoes, it is approx a 15 mins job together with assembly. Blowing it with compressed air worked 100%, I did not even touch the DLP glass, or the lense in front of it.
Спасибо большое! Вы очень помогли!! С наилучшими пожеланиями из России :)
Не за что! Я рад помочь. Наслаждайся своим проектором!
Hello again mate, another thing i will mention about optoma projectors, while theyre excellent, the thermal paste they use is absolute garbage, i just replaced the thermal grease on my optoma hd131xe, it was coming up with false fan errors, after replacing the tim its working perfect.
I wonder why the designers do things like that. I see great designs compromised to mediocre because they are using half asses parts to save a few beans. I like those heat transfer pads alright, but I prefer some good arctic silver paste(or whatever they call it on fleabay).
Its texas instruments fault mate, they supply the terrible compound with the chips, it would cost optoma literally 5 quid for thermal paste in 25 projectors, this is one of the most important things, constant use without adequate cooling will destroy the sensor chip, luckily optomas firmware catches it just in time and shuts the projector down
I just applied arctic mx4 (stellar stuff) its dropped temps massively
@@FixitFrank Hello again, do you by any chance know how to enter the service menu on an optoma hd131xe?
@@Synthematix Hope you're well! I don't have the exact info for the hd131 but I suspect it's the same code as the hd25/hd20. Try (power, up, right, up, left, menu). If not, then try (power, left, left, menu). The second is the original method. The first is the updated method. It works on a lot of optoma, so I think it will work out for you. Good to hear from you
@@FixitFrank Thanks mate up right up left menu worked! thanks a lot! i needed to adjust the colourwheel as the calibration was a little off, gotta tell ya the picture now is absolutely beautiful! vivid colour and bright, i think i need to use a better paint on my wall though, its absorbing ambient light too much.
Hi Frank, well done, very useful video for people (like me) who like fixing stuff on their own. I cleaned the colour wheel on my Optoma HD20 and I am thinking of cleaning the optical assembly and check the lens, as there still some issue with the projected image. I got the contrast and luminosity back with the cleaned colour wheel, but there still is some image defect visible: I would define it as a "light leak" inside one of the corners of the projected image, visible only on a black screen (or dark scenes) that gradually disappear towards the center of the image. Because of the gradient nature of the image defect, I tend to believe it's an optical issue. Have you encountered something similar?
Hello Horia, I can't say I have seen exactly that, but I would check the integrator/light tunnel alignment.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the suggestion.
Horia did you figure out the issue. I have leakage top right
@@kmare Unfortunately no. I didn't open the optical assembly, it seemed too much of a challenge. Ended up with a different Optoma H20, and with plenty of spare parts :). That came in handy, as the mainboard needed replacement at some point. The optical assembly of this second unit doesn't have the same light bleed problem. It's not perfect, but it does the job.
@@horiamarusca really appreciate the response -- i'm hesitant to take apart too, bright scenes are perfect, its just the dark scene uniformity. Maybe @fixitfrank has some ideas too. Didnt really seem to be much info on the net re: fixing uniformity for any DLP
Hello Frank -- unrelated but any ideas why my HD20 has dark scene uniformity on the top right corner? Similar question was asked a few years back -- your suggestion was to check the integrator / light tunnel. Definately don't think light tunnel becuase I dont see any hardlines .Its just a glow in the top right
It still could be, but it might also be dust. I'd have to see a picture.
@@FixitFrank drive.google.com/file/d/1YJDljlMWlQkMTcHK6UtBaAJOOBTlm7YX/view?usp=drivesdk so I can see the uniformity is not just the top right in the photo. Amazing how your eyes mislead you
oh okay. If you can do the same thing but using the white test pattern(in the menu) that would be fantastic. you might have a damaged shape lens.
@@FixitFrank I've ordered a condenser (Cresent shaped) lens. What I found was the plastic lens had small cracks in the coating and was hazing. I tried polishing which of course did not remove the internal Haze. It did remove the cracks but also the lens coating. I'll report back, supposed to be a glass lens. I don't know if grey market lenses are real, have correct coatings etc.
New glass lens was OEM and fixed issue. Thank you fixit!!
@fixitfrank thank you so much for your videos! replaced with a glass lens; picture is 100% uniform now. I have a little bit of bleed around the screen, not noticable except in dark scenese. Not sure if further messing is worth it
hi there.. I have an Optoma Hd141x, are you sure at 03:58 what you see is direct DLP chip or is that a optical light mask, as I can see in hd20 service manual .The ceramic in my lamp came off and was spreading the ceramic powder all across the projector. I was cleaning and blowing off dust inside my projector when I think it deposited on this part. Using q tip hasnt helped and I think q tip has rather scratched it. When properly focused I can see all that debris on projection surface. This assembly was earlier spotless.Will really appreciate if you could help on this ?
That is an annoying problem to have. I would go over all of the optics for dust. It may be i n the barrel section. Between the integrator and main DLP area. You may want to unscrew the lens to check its surface also. That dust could be everywhere. A total tear-down/cleaning might be in order. It is safe to do if you go slow and take lots of pictures to make sure all the lenses go back facing the right direction and in the correct order. The scratches should not affect your image too much if they are not deep. There is a slight allowance where the light will shine past them.
FixitFrank thanks mate. I can clearly see the position of dust .. the area of lens, reflective mirror is mostly clean. It’s the dust on the DMD chip or the DMD mask ( if it has one and gives me hope that the chip is fine) which is the problem. with a torch and correctly focused lens I could clean it BUT anything everything seems to scratch it . I live in India and got it from UK with limited stuff on Internet I am having a strong guilt and sleepless night over screwing my projector.
ahh. I see what you mean. Try some keyboard putty to remove it. Its that sticky 'goo' that you can peal up after laying down. It wont drag the material across the glass. you'll have to clean the residue(kind of greasy) off the glass but its not as bad as ceramic powder.
What size is the screws to mount the Projector to the ceiling
The HD20 uses M3*3 with a minimum length of 7.5mm and a max of 10mm (depending on the thickness if your mount of course).
Hi, so I cleaned everything with you tips and get more light and better colors. I have new lamp (same grey spots also appeared with my old lamp) and now I got this issue after cleaning; imgur.com/a/v6fpKCz
There is dust some new place?
One spot might be dust inside the DMD, but the white spots look like failing DMD to me.
@@FixitFrank It was just a dust and dirt. Hard to clean the dmd. Used lenscleaner and microfibre. Always some dirt stays on it. And after five or more wipings its going to scratch dmd :( Anyways it doesent effect the picture and i get most spots away. My another hd25e shows dead pixel on white screen and lower resolution..