Thank you so much for this video. I had a P17bf fault but like you when I dismantled the mech I could not find any obvious reason for the fault. I replaced the accumulator with an aftermarket one and then replaced most of the seals as per your video. The hardest part was getting the clutch actuator sleeves out. I ended up putting on a latex cleaning glove which gave me more purchase on the sleeve. All back together and working a treat, no faults and pressure is correct. 👍
hi my friend i have the fault code p189c Function Restriction due to Insufficient Pressure Build-Up , car jumps out of gear when driving ... and pump is constanly working , but accumulator looks fine and the thread also its not broken? could it be the accumulator self ? like yours no damage at all at first sight.
@@LMAutoRepairs who put it apart said the seals were fine , so could be the accumulator or the base of it maybe a little crack its not visible enough.. will update what it is soon
Good afternoon Luis, Excellent detailed breakdown of the steps for repairing / servicing the DQ 200 followed by clear explanation. Enjoyed watching every minute of the video clip. 😊
Great great video Luis. I put mechatronics together in my office with the door closed because I get disturbed very easy. No joke and I have forgotten O rings.
Hi La Auto thanks for your help my Audi A5 oil level sensor was broken in the oil sump tank that was giving false readings and no oil was leaking but I did find out that the car was smoking very bad till oil level reset it self and stopped smoking put in catalyst clean and dpf clean
Thanks for the an awesome video. It really helped me getting started with my problem. The only issue i have is the car is giving me the same problem P17bf and P189C but i have changed almost every thing except for the solenoids seals ,changed the valve body changed the hydraulic accumulator , hydraulic pump but the car is still giving me same faults please help what could i have missed. is the calibration necessary after taking the unit out ?
I own a 2013 Polo 6 TSI with a DSG gearbox. The car has +-64 000km. i encountered a problem with Shifting of gears from P to D, and from P to R, (P=Park, D=Drive, R=Reverse) first attempt the R/D doesn't engage, they just start flashing on the dash screen and car wont move WHEN YOU PRESS IN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Its Only the second attempt when you I put it back to P and then shift back to R/D, only then it will engage. I then took it to a mechanic for diagnostic. Mechanic said that there was some fault on the Mechatronics showing low pressure on the Diagnostic machine. although there was no any fault indicating light on the car dash screen. He then ordered a mechatronic kit and he serviced it...and the car was fine since then. but after only 3 days, same issue started again (flashing of Drive and Reverse gears) . now he said i must take the car back so he check again. I'm yet to take it back. has anybody experience something like this before...what do i have to look out for when i take it to the mechanic? Thank you.
@@LMAutoRepairs could the oil filter be restricting flow or is the oil pressure sensor before the filter if switch is after filter with a few small leaks or pressure drop similar to your final test ie drop then build pressure then drop again ifthe filter not flowing enough it would not build enough pressure to cycle the motor on and off so my thoughs are filter thanks Luis
Hi, While extracting the Mechatronic from the Gearbox casing, I have damaged the Imput Speed Sender 1 G632. I have ordered a replacement sender G632 and the associated set of seals to remove the main electronic board from the Mechatronig housing and replace the broken Sender G632. Could you please advise me the tightening torques recommended by the manufacturer for : - The Mechatronic oil drain plug (one up and one down) - The Mechatronic main electronic board on the housing (7xM6 black Torx bolts) Thanks
@@antoniocampo4737 I bought in in AliExpress but forget it, it was not new, maybe tested but anyway in bad conditon (2 out of 4 hooks broken at receivine), I send it back as mine, even broken, worked fine.
Hello sir! You have done a very good and explained video "webinar" ! Do you have a link for the repair kit you used so we can also buy because there are many "repair kit" from different shops and the quality isn't sure if it is good ,and your kit you prefer shows good and quality and i want to minimize the chances buying a not good kit and i will appreciate if you can sare the source you buy and buy the same! Thanks in advance!!
Hello Mr Luis , nice video as always , problem solved ... but we still don't know what caused this pressure problem , this mistery will remain unsolved , like Lochness giant monster...
There was a recall in 2013 to change from synthetic oil to mineral oil because in very hot climate countries there was a chance of causing shorts on the circuit board. Also before the recall the oil was supposed to be for life. After that you have to change it every 40K miles/60K km.
Great video, very helpful. Thanks! One question - you said (at 36 mins) that the screw + washer that goes into the valve body (assuming it's not there in the new one) has a spring and ball bearing behind it but when I removed the screw on my old valve body to move it to the new one there was nothing in the hole. Is that right?
Bizarre. I'm 100% sure there was nothing in the hole. Strange thing is I've also got a second new valve body which did come with the screw installed so I took that out to see and there was nothing in there either. Not sure what to do now!
@@princesslena23 I don't believe there should be anything in this. The screw is clearly there just to close off where they have drilled through to connect to channels.
Thank you for the video - you were so thorough - makes something complicated understandable. I appreciate all your efforts- great mechanic Thank you 🙏 🔥 ❤
Hi from Germany. Thank you for the excellent video. I try to figure iut whats wrong in my mechatronics and found your videos. Even after replacing the accumulator the vcds shows just around 20bars. At pump speed of 1500rpm. I also saw it drops down to 2bars and speed of 500rpm. Is there any idea what could be the reason of such behavour? Next step, i would try to run it open and try to change all the sealings. Maybe it is pumping in a circle… Car engine wasn‘t running, when i tested it… if that can be a reason too?
@@LMAutoRepairs Mmmm. I think, this part is missed because I watch the video again but I didn't see the assembling of the pump. Do you know how much is thighten ? Please. 😰😓👃
@emmanuelnunezpereyra7347 OK... I might missed it... No, I don't know the torque specs... so I did it as I felt it was OK... Just make sure whatever you torque them all the same....
The title says to read the description... if you read it and follow the link in there, you will see if the car ended up working or not... ☺️ If the tcm is dead, that will most likely require a replacement.. 👍👍👍
random question hopefully you know the answer on a oam mech unit I have removed the solenoid blocks off the side of the valve body and there is 4 ball bearings I have I was under the impression there should only be 3 these ball bearings fell on the floor and the 4th May be an extra from the shop floor 3 are the same size and 1 is smaller was hoping you could provide guidance on of there should be 4 or 3 and the position of them many thanks
I don't recall from the top of my head now... I believe however, I mentioned it on the video... unless was on a different one... But I believe under the solenoids it is just one on each... but I might be wrong... Sorry if I can't help much... 👍👍👍
Can someone share the correct torque specs for all the different bolts involved. Have read here 5Nm + 90 degree but we need all of them in one place thank you
@@LMAutoRepairs yeah, i removed the circlip, i made an excessive amount of force, and even then, they wont budge, none of the 4, i will try a bearing puller today. i have made a lot of them but i never was able to remove any of the fork actuators.
Hey, i have a virtus and It got hit underneath due to which one of the engine mounting came out and merchantronic was leaking a bit ( no facial or engine damage to car ) Now they will change the Merchantronic. And concerned parts. My question is will i be facing any issue or it will be like new If they change the whole part ? Onlt damage as of now merchantronics and excel leaked.
@LMAutoRepairs Hi mate. I can see a licking from the pistons k1/k2 on my mechatronic. Is it possible to change the seals on the pistons without dismantle the whole thing? From the video it seems you can .
Luis could you share which pins you connected when you tried to benchtest the Mechatronic? I ordered VCDS cable and would like to benchtest it before assembly since my Mechatronic is still failing to build pressure after rebuild (the pump runs continuously).
Hi sirs. Did you solve the pump running constantly? Do i just need to pin these „can bus“ cables into the vcds plug (on the right position) to be able to read it outside the car?
Hi, did you solve the pump running constantly even after rebuild? Do you know a cause/solution? Sorry thats my first comments on youtube channels. I am not very familiar how to place it correctly. Greats from germany
@@TobiasKnoch Hi, Yes but I never bothered because I couldn't get the cables right. In the end the reason the pump ran was because of mechanical error leading to loss of pressure. I had to send it to someone in Germany to replace parts.
Goodday, i just want to ask, is there any mechatronic model that does not have spring and ball at the bottom part of it? the part with bolt and washer. Cheers
Hi Luis - Great video buddy. My vehicle 2011 Golf TDI is throwing a 17252 error code, what could be the issue? It changes gears on higher RPMs...around 3800-4000 especially from 2nd>3rd. However, everything works properly on demand by shifting in manual mode. I have replaced the filter and oil but it is still doing that. But I haven't driven it much since then. Also, would you know how I can clear the error code? Thank you in advance.
@@LMAutoRepairs Thanks for the prompt reply. My transmission code is MFL, if I replace mechatronic with a used one from MFL…would it work or requires programming? Also, what do you mean by good service? Thanks
Not long... as the pump will be constantly running trying to build up pressure... I am surprised that is running always OK, and not stopping with overheating codes... I would get that sorted ASAP... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs no fault codes are showing mate live data shows it constantly running though and I can hear it buzz when I turn ignition on apart from that you want think anything was wrong with it it still drives fine
@@shanehutchinson785 Again, the pump/motor is not designed to be constantly running, if it is now, will not last as long as it should, plus, I am sure soon or later it will start overheating, and the module will shut the pump off... I would have it sorted, or, you can drive it untill it goes bang... 🤷♂️
I have a DQ200 DSG SKODA 2016. Only code came up is P17BF00. Mechanic is sorting out the mectronic but now saying the TCM is gone to. I have no symptoms and it drives and changes gears perfectly. Only problem it lights up and says gearbox error once a day if that. What do you think? As now it’s costing me £1400 as originally was £800.
That is the code for an internal leak or lack of pressure... could be many things, the accumulator, a seal somewhere, a cracked accumulator base... Needs opening checking and service... 👍👍👍
@Jason-hz5zc Why do they believe the tcu is gone? If the car is driving and just reports a fault I don't see it being faulty... Yes, the tcu is inside the mechatronics...
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately on mine I damaged a speed sensor on removing the unit. I can’t find a spare anywhere unless I buy 1000 from China 😂. You haven’t got a spare lying around you’d sell?
@@LMAutoRepairs it’s the speed sensor for drive shaft 1 ( (G632) I knocked the tip off it and ripped the flexible ribbon wire at the end. I’m hoping it’s ok as it’s at the end of the ribbon tape. Nothing seems to be attached. I just sealed it and hopefully for the best. I’ll stick it back in today and see how it goes.
@@LMAutoRepairs well it fell strait off the bit of plastic I glued back on. Time to look for a sensor. Any sources you might know of let me know? Thanks for your help.
Hi again. I writing you from Romania. I have the same problem on my Touran. Dsg7. Dq200. This was the reason for watching you precios video. I ordered a kit repair with the valve body. All seal and body valve replaced but surprise. No pressure at all. My mechatronic has previously repair for the previous owner with kinergo kit. I Bought a sh acumulator OE. one. But no luck. Could be a possibility that the kit repair and seal a bad qftermarket kit? The body valve is identical and is the thick one around the acumulator. If you have any ideea to help me I'll really appreciate. Many thanks.
What I forgot to tell is when I took last time the mechatroniv unit to check it I try with a drill to spin the motor and in the same time I put oil on the hole and motor axel to the pump and the pressure go up jntil the secure mechanic valve was opened. That means the pump works. But when I fitted to gearbox and vhe k pressure with vcds was no pressure. Only one in all my intention to fix it was ghe pressure at 40bar and the start dropping very very slowly until 27 bars and stayed there. But the pump was running continuously. I dont know if this help hou some how to figured out what happening. May be a bad pressure sensor?? When the pressure was at 40 bar I herds the gearbox noise like a clack.
Well, I would say, double check that you have tightened everything, and you have not missed any seals, o-rings, etc... If you have replaced the gaskets on the pump, make sure the pump is running freely... Some kits, the pump seals are too thick, and when you tight everything they squeeze the pump gears, and them the motor struggles to run it... Check at what speed the pump is running... Also, the covers of the pump need to be installed in the correct orientation... 👍👍👍
Many thanks for your quik answer. You right about the pump seals. I've changed them and after that the pump wasnt run freely. I fit back the old seals and refitted on mecatronic. I made the test on the car and 40bars. But not higer then that. Pump speed 2100-2200rpm. After a few minutes goes in fault mode for missing pressure. Probably is the pump.
Did you really put 70 Nm on the accumulator? When I disassembled the Mechatronics I could remove the accumulator by hand. I wonder if it is possible that it screwed itself out and that caused the loss of pressure 🤔
@@nicknick-vr3df If you remove the TCU there will for sure not be any pressure in the mechatronis anymore. However inside the Accumulator there will be 24 bar of pressurized N2. You can unscrew the accumulator from the mechatronics, but do not open the the Accumulator. It requires special tools and procedures to overhaul. My view for the accumulator 20Nm should be enough. I used 30Nm. The accumulator will not rotate anywhere after 15Nm in my case. If you were able to unscrew the Accumulator out by hand it means that the Accumulator was not fully screwed in. The accumulators seems to have a habit in some cases to unscrewing themselves over time. When the o-ring seal becomes visible the system will not maintain pressue and the mechatronics will fail.
Unfortunately the driver and lack of knowledge of these dsg/ getrag powershift gearboxes is the main problem . Once a driver understands the workings and maintenance involved, they will then full appreciate it!
hi sir, would you mind share the diagram to connect vcds to mechatronic as shown in video? refer to minutes of 45.00 Thank you in advance. Aizat from Malaysia
If the pressure accumulator is bad, your pressure on live data will drop really quick... As the accumulator is not really accumulating anything... Hope it makes sense... 👍👍👍
Hey man. I have a dq200 7 speed my car isn't going into reverse and making a lot of noise only in reverse but in drive gear it's working smooth as butter can you give me some suggestions as the people at VW told me when they scanned the error was in mechatronic
Hi It can be the mechatronics, however, if all the other gears and gear changes are OK, I would be more inclined for a mechanical issue in the gearbox itself... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs could it be the synchronizer ring? Or low transmission fluid because once I took the car it started working in reverse but stopped again. Don't wanna sell my kidney to get it fixed
@@anki2451 It could well be... But until you take it apart it is difficult to tell... I just dubious that is the mechatronics, because if it was, you would most likely have issues on other gears... 👍
Good Afternoon Luis, I from Malaysia and have a DQ200 gearbox and I meet some problem now. when I driving the gear will turn to nothing and I cannot run aways my car. after that I need restart back the engine then just can continue driving. what is the problem?
I have had this issue in Seat Arona 2022 .. It is again Mechatronic and found it leaking oil.. It is extremely expensive I had to get a VW genuine Hydraulic oil and I replaced the oil and it looks fine now, but at least I need to change gasket to stop the leaks
Hi Leo,great video,s, love the content,keep um cummin ,a question if might ask about some thing not relevant to this video,basically had to replace my engine ecu as was intermittently causing engine failure by way of detination,I have a forth engine to replace 3rd that's still in the car ,so have replaced ecu, uch,steering lock and key card ,o lying problem is not opening hatch other than that all good,used clip to go to uch access setup,scrolled down the list,tailgate is in the list,but says absent,all others say with or with out,is there a way of sorting this problem out it's a reno scenic 1.5dci 2005 with the N2 uch,any help or advice welcome,using car at moment with boot locked thanks
No because in the uch using clip these options are greyed out and say absent using 210 of clip,is the security side on a separate chip,thinking only option is to see if either clone original data or exchange the chip etc
I have renolink 152,can parts of the uch be reprogrammed separately,so as not to interference with security side of it.thanks paul. Have a great evening
Hi, I got used dsg gearbox vw golf 2.0 gtd 2016,, same metronic from my old dsg gearbox, fill up gearbox oil, around 6 litres, not going in reverse and also jump in drive gear too, I code up p271100 unexpected michanical. disengagement,? Thank you
I am having this problem now, the mechatronics was replaced but now after 1 month it is back going in and out of gears whilst i am driving and especially going over humps. Can you help me
@@LMAutoRepairs I left my lights on all night had to jump start my battery since the incident my spanner light comes on and D1 D2 D3 etc start flashing have live scanned it it's reading 32 bar and when I turn ignition you can hear the pump or motor on mechatronic I really believe it's down to my battery what damaged my mechatronic has it was fine before
Got a quote for my mechatronic 850 British pound my pump/ motor stays on when you switch ignition on a bad battery would not cause that would it I'm i correct, what actually keeps the motor/pump constantly running please ?
@LMAutoRepairs I want to ask something my dq200 give me code p177f lowe voltage motor not coming on again my research say that I must replace mechatronic tcu I was thinking I can I use a 3 phase controller to control the motor to build pressure. Because once the tcu detected pressure it will work ?
@ricardodavis9972 Doubt it will work... As the tcu will not not be able to control the motor and most likely will throw faults for it... Check powers and grounds... Make sure the controller is getting a good voltage and current feed... 👍👍👍
@LMAutoRepairs when I remove mechatronic cover after remove the oil with key on the motor only pulsing like it want to spin but nothing more no matter I do I just bought this car vw golf estate mk5 2009 battery is brand new I teat all the wiring at the connection everything is OK tcu is picking on my scan tool
Hey Luis, I'm having a hard time with my rebuild. Is it possible to get a paid video consultation from you? Something like 30-60 minutes. Alternatively you can pick out some stuff from your wish list you'd like to have. Could really use some help right now. Thanks :)
@@LMAutoRepairs I did the rebuild and it went fine but pressure couldn't build so the pump kept running. The only problem I could find when I first took it apart is that there was a significant amount of debris on two solenoids which I cleaned. The solenoids were tested and all worked and sounded the same when actuating. Then when I took it apart the second time I found that the O ring on the accumulator had split partly but looked fine otherwise. I believe that it could have happened due to not using any grease or oil when installing it to the new (and dry) valve body housing. Could this be the issue? I didn't use a torque wrench so maybe there was unequal distribution of tension on the screws? Although I felt I was tightening them all pretty much the same. My idea now is to take everything apart. Clean it with solvent and compressed air. Put it all back and torque everything the same. The new valve body came with the extra screw on the side and the pin on top but I'm now starting to question if there is a ball in there or not or if I was supposed to transfer the ball or balls from my original housing. Is it okay to take the pin out and the screw to check or is it very hard to put back together? Sorry for the long text but I tried to compress it as much as possible.
Easy to put back on... Yes, some housings come without it... You need to make sure that is in place. Also, check and double check the pump... if in doubt, get a new pump... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs Okay let's see the latest development... I got a new O-ring. My tightening torques are, 5 Nm Solenoid plastic housing 12 Nm Valve body screws 35 Nm Accumulator The result is 6.5 bar in VCDS. I know the accumulator is low torque but I wanted to see how it changes so I hit the accumulator with somewhere between 45 - 50 Nm. This time I get 9.5 bar So my question to you, sir, is if you believe that I can achieve the needed pressure if I go to 70 Nm with the accumulator or if there is something else that's going on or needs to be tightened? It's just really scary for me to apply that kind of torque to that flimsy looking aluminum housing. I feel like I'm going to break it.
Is the pump running freely and to the right RPMs? Perhaps a bad or worn pump? As for the torques, I usually do it by feeling, as I never really found decisive torque settings... surely they are it there somewhere though...😊
You really use these Chinese crappy alligator wires? There is only several copper strands and can not handle anything. By 8 amps...these started melting?
Thank you so much for this video. I had a P17bf fault but like you when I dismantled the mech I could not find any obvious reason for the fault. I replaced the accumulator with an aftermarket one and then replaced most of the seals as per your video. The hardest part was getting the clutch actuator sleeves out. I ended up putting on a latex cleaning glove which gave me more purchase on the sleeve. All back together and working a treat, no faults and pressure is correct. 👍
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That's great!
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hi my friend i have the fault code p189c Function Restriction due to Insufficient Pressure Build-Up , car jumps out of gear when driving ... and pump is constanly working , but accumulator looks fine and the thread also its not broken? could it be the accumulator self ? like yours no damage at all at first sight.
@atashli
Could be the accumulator...
But could also be the many seals and gasket leaking slightly, and when all add up...
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@@LMAutoRepairs who put it apart said the seals were fine , so could be the accumulator or the base of it maybe a little crack its not visible enough.. will update what it is soon
Another thing is the pump...
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Good afternoon Luis,
Excellent detailed breakdown of the steps for repairing / servicing the DQ 200 followed by clear explanation.
Enjoyed watching every minute of the video clip. 😊
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Thanks!
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Great great video Luis. I put mechatronics together in my office with the door closed because I get disturbed very easy. No joke and I have forgotten O rings.
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It is easy to miss things...
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The correct torque spec for those inside are 5nm +1/4 turn. This was found in the DSG repair manual.
So do you mean those 20 M6 bolts inside?
Awesome video. Very clear and direct. May I know what brand of the REPAIR KIT you installed?
Hi
Thanks!
Don't think it had a brand... I got it from eBay at the time, if i recall correctly...
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Hi La Auto thanks for your help my Audi A5 oil level sensor was broken in the oil sump tank that was giving false readings and no oil was leaking but I did find out that the car was smoking very bad till oil level reset it self and stopped smoking put in catalyst clean and dpf clean
😊
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Thanks for the an awesome video. It really helped me getting started with my problem. The only issue i have is the car is giving me the same problem P17bf and P189C but i have changed almost every thing except for the solenoids seals ,changed the valve body changed the hydraulic accumulator , hydraulic pump but the car is still giving me same faults please help what could i have missed. is the calibration necessary after taking the unit out ?
The pressure build-up has really nothing to do with adaptations...
You must still have a hydraulic leak somewhere...
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I own a 2013 Polo 6 TSI with a DSG gearbox. The car has +-64 000km. i encountered a problem with Shifting of gears from P to D, and from P to R, (P=Park, D=Drive, R=Reverse) first attempt the R/D doesn't engage, they just start flashing on the dash screen and car wont move WHEN YOU PRESS IN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Its Only the second attempt when you I put it back to P and then shift back to R/D, only then it will engage. I then took it to a mechanic for diagnostic. Mechanic said that there was some fault on the Mechatronics showing low pressure on the Diagnostic machine. although there was no any fault indicating light on the car dash screen. He then ordered a mechatronic kit and he serviced it...and the car was fine since then. but after only 3 days, same issue started again (flashing of Drive and Reverse gears) . now he said i must take the car back so he check again. I'm yet to take it back. has anybody experience something like this before...what do i have to look out for when i take it to the mechanic?
Thank you.
Scan the car... that's always the best start...
Worn clutches can also cause all sort of issues with these...
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Another video in the library
Thank you luis
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Thanks!
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good morning LUIS thanks for the video i have a vw with dsg so much appreciated just in case
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@@LMAutoRepairs could the oil filter be restricting flow or is the oil pressure sensor before the filter if switch is after filter with a few small leaks or pressure drop similar to your final test ie drop then build pressure then drop again ifthe filter not flowing enough it would not build enough pressure to cycle the motor on and off so my thoughs are filter thanks Luis
Hi,
While extracting the Mechatronic from the Gearbox casing, I have damaged the Imput Speed Sender 1 G632.
I have ordered a replacement sender G632 and the associated set of seals to remove the main electronic board from the Mechatronig housing and replace the broken Sender G632.
Could you please advise me the tightening torques recommended by the manufacturer for :
- The Mechatronic oil drain plug (one up and one down)
- The Mechatronic main electronic board on the housing (7xM6 black Torx bolts)
Thanks
Where did you get the speed sensor from ? I did the same to mine.
@@antoniocampo4737 I bought in in AliExpress but forget it, it was not new, maybe tested but anyway in bad conditon (2 out of 4 hooks broken at receivine), I send it back as mine, even broken, worked fine.
Hello sir! You have done a very good and explained video "webinar" ! Do you have a link for the repair kit you used so we can also buy because there are many "repair kit" from different shops and the quality isn't sure if it is good ,and your kit you prefer shows good and quality and i want to minimize the chances buying a not good kit and i will appreciate if you can sare the source you buy and buy the same! Thanks in advance!!
I just want to see if you can change the oils on DQ200. The dealerships says you cannot change it without taking the whole unit apart.
That's incorrect...
You can change the hydraulic fluid without removing the mechatronics...
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Hello Mr Luis , nice video as always , problem solved ... but we still don't know what caused this pressure problem , this mistery will remain unsolved , like Lochness giant monster...
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Kinda of... yes...
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Hi Luis another great video the detail is great good information see on your next video 😊
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Thanks!
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Great vid, as always. Where do you get your repair kits? Presumably you go for the more expensive ones - about £150?
Can't remember how much it was...
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There was a recall in 2013 to change from synthetic oil to mineral oil because in very hot climate countries there was a chance of causing shorts on the circuit board. Also before the recall the oil was supposed to be for life. After that you have to change it every 40K miles/60K km.
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Thank you for the knowledge and the video. I hope it is useful and always successful. Greetings from Indonesia with black nails
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Thanks, for watching and for your comment!
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Great video, very helpful. Thanks!
One question - you said (at 36 mins) that the screw + washer that goes into the valve body (assuming it's not there in the new one) has a spring and ball bearing behind it but when I removed the screw on my old valve body to move it to the new one there was nothing in the hole. Is that right?
Never seen one without the spring and the ball...
Are you sure is not stuck in the old one, or you haven't drop it?
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Bizarre. I'm 100% sure there was nothing in the hole. Strange thing is I've also got a second new valve body which did come with the screw installed so I took that out to see and there was nothing in there either. Not sure what to do now!
@@arniemacgyver6830any update with this? Got same issue as thanks
@@princesslena23 I don't believe there should be anything in this. The screw is clearly there just to close off where they have drilled through to connect to channels.
A master class again Louis,and I hope you had a good catch up at automekanica (apologies for spelling lol) 👌
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Thanks!
Yes, was a nice day...
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Nice detailed video as always mate top job 👍
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Thanks Igor!
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Excellent like always! THANKS Louis
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Thanks!
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Excellent video. What brand kit did you use and where did you purchase it? I see a lot online.
Thank you for the video - you were so thorough - makes something complicated understandable. I appreciate all your efforts- great mechanic
Thank you 🙏
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Thanks!
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Great job, thanks for this video.
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Thank you for watching!
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hello from greece! Have you found the correct nm for the bolts? thank you
Hi from Germany. Thank you for the excellent video. I try to figure iut whats wrong in my mechatronics and found your videos. Even after replacing the accumulator the vcds shows just around 20bars. At pump speed of 1500rpm. I also saw it drops down to 2bars and speed of 500rpm. Is there any idea what could be the reason of such behavour?
Next step, i would try to run it open and try to change all the sealings. Maybe it is pumping in a circle…
Car engine wasn‘t running, when i tested it… if that can be a reason too?
Could be seals and o-rings... check also the pump when you have everything in bits...
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Great video! My car has the same problem, i think is the plate. Can I ask you how much do you thighten the screws of the pump?
I believe I covered that on the video...
Or did I missed it? 🤔
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@@LMAutoRepairs Mmmm. I think, this part is missed because I watch the video again but I didn't see the assembling of the pump. Do you know how much is thighten ? Please. 😰😓👃
@emmanuelnunezpereyra7347
OK... I might missed it...
No, I don't know the torque specs... so I did it as I felt it was OK...
Just make sure whatever you torque them all the same....
Great video...thank you for you hard work.
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Thanks!
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Insigtfull vid tahnks .... but did the car end up working ? And how do we sot if the tcm is dead
The title says to read the description... if you read it and follow the link in there, you will see if the car ended up working or not...
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If the tcm is dead, that will most likely require a replacement..
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@LMAutoRepairs read it after commenting thanks mate did itvit worked 😝
random question hopefully you know the answer on a oam mech unit I have removed the solenoid blocks off the side of the valve body and there is 4 ball bearings I have I was under the impression there should only be 3 these ball bearings fell on the floor and the 4th May be an extra from the shop floor 3 are the same size and 1 is smaller was hoping you could provide guidance on of there should be 4 or 3 and the position of them many thanks
I don't recall from the top of my head now... I believe however, I mentioned it on the video... unless was on a different one...
But I believe under the solenoids it is just one on each... but I might be wrong...
Sorry if I can't help much...
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hi mate fantastic job were did you buy the kit from
eBay... if I recall correctly...
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Can someone share the correct torque specs for all the different bolts involved.
Have read here 5Nm + 90 degree but we need all of them in one place thank you
Hello, excellent video! How do you remove the fork selector cilinders? i am having issues removing them and i dont want to force anything.
There is circlip, then just pull it out...
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@@LMAutoRepairs yeah, i removed the circlip, i made an excessive amount of force, and even then, they wont budge, none of the 4, i will try a bearing puller today. i have made a lot of them but i never was able to remove any of the fork actuators.
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@@LMAutoRepairs compressed air through ports did the job!
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Good technique...
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Hello
Is it possible to book in audi a1 2012 with gearbox problem?
Dsg.
Many thanks
Hey, i have a virtus and It got hit underneath due to which one of the engine mounting came out and merchantronic was leaking a bit ( no facial or engine damage to car ) Now they will change the Merchantronic. And concerned parts.
My question is will i be facing any issue or it will be like new If they change the whole part ?
Onlt damage as of now merchantronics and excel leaked.
If they replace the mechatronics and not other damage was inflicted to the gearbox, should be ok...
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You can safely install the mech outside the k1 and k2 wont extend out
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@LMAutoRepairs Hi mate. I can see a licking from the pistons k1/k2 on my mechatronic. Is it possible to change the seals on the pistons without dismantle the whole thing? From the video it seems you can .
@@katalin9482 no you cannot you have to remove the mech in order to change both k1/k2 pistons.
You should be to do it, yes...
Need to take the mechatronics out of the gearbox obviously...
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Great video 👍, good work 🙂
Thanks!
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Can you fix tcu units on this mechatronic?
Excellent thanks for sharing 👍 🍻
Thank you for watching!
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Luis could you share which pins you connected when you tried to benchtest the Mechatronic? I ordered VCDS cable and would like to benchtest it before assembly since my Mechatronic is still failing to build pressure after rebuild (the pump runs continuously).
Just google "dq200 pinout" and you will see the connections...
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@@LMAutoRepairs
Thank you sir 🙏
Hi sirs. Did you solve the pump running constantly?
Do i just need to pin these „can bus“ cables into the vcds plug (on the right position) to be able to read it outside the car?
Hi, did you solve the pump running constantly even after rebuild? Do you know a cause/solution?
Sorry thats my first comments on youtube channels. I am not very familiar how to place it correctly. Greats from germany
@@TobiasKnoch
Hi,
Yes but I never bothered because I couldn't get the cables right.
In the end the reason the pump ran was because of mechanical error leading to loss of pressure. I had to send it to someone in Germany to replace parts.
Goodday, i just want to ask, is there any mechatronic model that does not have spring and ball at the bottom part of it? the part with bolt and washer. Cheers
I only found 4 balls at the mechatronic plate when disassembling it. How many balls does it have all in all?
Never seen one without...
But if you disassembled it yourself and was nothing there, then that might be it...
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Hi Luis - Great video buddy.
My vehicle 2011 Golf TDI is throwing a 17252 error code, what could be the issue?
It changes gears on higher RPMs...around 3800-4000 especially from 2nd>3rd. However, everything works properly on demand by shifting in manual mode.
I have replaced the filter and oil but it is still doing that. But I haven't driven it much since then.
Also, would you know how I can clear the error code?
Thank you in advance.
Oil pressure?
You might need a good service on the mechatronics...
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@@LMAutoRepairs
Thanks for the prompt reply.
My transmission code is MFL, if I replace mechatronic with a used one from MFL…would it work or requires programming?
Also, what do you mean by good service?
Thanks
It might require coding...
As for the service, have you watched this video?
@@LMAutoRepairs
Yes, I did. This video gave me the idea to rebuild the mechatronic.
@@LMAutoRepairs
Thanks a lot for replying back and sharing your knowledge. God bless you!
Hi mate have got same problem mines running at 36 bar still drives fine though how long would it last if i kept driving it ?
Not long... as the pump will be constantly running trying to build up pressure...
I am surprised that is running always OK, and not stopping with overheating codes...
I would get that sorted ASAP...
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@@LMAutoRepairs no fault codes are showing mate live data shows it constantly running though and I can hear it buzz when I turn ignition on apart from that you want think anything was wrong with it it still drives fine
@@shanehutchinson785
Again, the pump/motor is not designed to be constantly running, if it is now, will not last as long as it should, plus, I am sure soon or later it will start overheating, and the module will shut the pump off...
I would have it sorted, or, you can drive it untill it goes bang...
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@@LMAutoRepairs thanks for your time mate
I have a DQ200 DSG SKODA 2016. Only code came up is P17BF00. Mechanic is sorting out the mectronic but now saying the TCM is gone to. I have no symptoms and it drives and changes gears perfectly. Only problem it lights up and says gearbox error once a day if that.
What do you think? As now it’s costing me £1400 as originally was £800.
That is the code for an internal leak or lack of pressure... could be many things, the accumulator, a seal somewhere, a cracked accumulator base...
Needs opening checking and service...
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@@LMAutoRepairs all in the mechtronic unit? What about the TCU they saying that’s gone to and need a new one.
@Jason-hz5zc
Why do they believe the tcu is gone?
If the car is driving and just reports a fault I don't see it being faulty...
Yes, the tcu is inside the mechatronics...
@@LMAutoRepairs he said the he refurbed the mechtronic and car doesn’t start so TCU needs a new one.
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Don't know what to say...
Initially you said was driving and changing gears, now after refurbishment car doesn't start... Well, good luck...🤞
Wow that was so cool!!
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Very helpful 👌🏾
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Great job 👍
Thanks!
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Great video. Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately on mine I damaged a speed sensor on removing the unit. I can’t find a spare anywhere unless I buy 1000 from China 😂. You haven’t got a spare lying around you’d sell?
Sometimes it happens...☺️
Which sensor have you damaged?
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@@LMAutoRepairs it’s the speed sensor for drive shaft 1 ( (G632) I knocked the tip off it and ripped the flexible ribbon wire at the end. I’m hoping it’s ok as it’s at the end of the ribbon tape. Nothing seems to be attached. I just sealed it and hopefully for the best. I’ll stick it back in today and see how it goes.
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@@LMAutoRepairs well it fell strait off the bit of plastic I glued back on. Time to look for a sensor. Any sources you might know of let me know? Thanks for your help.
I have a couple spares mechatronics, but I never looked on how those sensors can be removed... as they seem to be part of the entire module...
Very very good work....
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Thanks!
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Thank you very much for the video. You the best.
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Thanks!
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Hi again. I writing you from Romania. I have the same problem on my Touran. Dsg7. Dq200. This was the reason for watching you precios video. I ordered a kit repair with the valve body. All seal and body valve replaced but surprise. No pressure at all. My mechatronic has previously repair for the previous owner with kinergo kit. I Bought a sh acumulator OE. one. But no luck.
Could be a possibility that the kit repair and seal a bad qftermarket kit? The body valve is identical and is the thick one around the acumulator. If you have any ideea to help me I'll really appreciate. Many thanks.
What I forgot to tell is when I took last time the mechatroniv unit to check it I try with a drill to spin the motor and in the same time I put oil on the hole and motor axel to the pump and the pressure go up jntil the secure mechanic valve was opened. That means the pump works. But when I fitted to gearbox and vhe k pressure with vcds was no pressure. Only one in all my intention to fix it was ghe pressure at 40bar and the start dropping very very slowly until 27 bars and stayed there. But the pump was running continuously. I dont know if this help hou some how to figured out what happening. May be a bad pressure sensor?? When the pressure was at 40 bar I herds the gearbox noise like a clack.
Well, I would say, double check that you have tightened everything, and you have not missed any seals, o-rings, etc...
If you have replaced the gaskets on the pump, make sure the pump is running freely...
Some kits, the pump seals are too thick, and when you tight everything they squeeze the pump gears, and them the motor struggles to run it...
Check at what speed the pump is running...
Also, the covers of the pump need to be installed in the correct orientation...
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Many thanks for your quik answer. You right about the pump seals. I've changed them and after that the pump wasnt run freely. I fit back the old seals and refitted on mecatronic. I made the test on the car and 40bars. But not higer then that. Pump speed 2100-2200rpm. After a few minutes goes in fault mode for missing pressure. Probably is the pump.
Did you really put 70 Nm on the accumulator? When I disassembled the Mechatronics I could remove the accumulator by hand. I wonder if it is possible that it screwed itself out and that caused the loss of pressure 🤔
I was never able to undo one by hand...
They are usually pretty tight!
That could have been your issue...
I’m having problems to remove the acumulator: how do you release the pressure on it?
If you have the mechatronics removed, there is no pressure on that accumulator...
Use a breaker bar...
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@@nicknick-vr3df If you remove the TCU there will for sure not be any pressure in the mechatronis anymore. However inside the Accumulator there will be 24 bar of pressurized N2. You can unscrew the accumulator from the mechatronics, but do not open the the Accumulator. It requires special tools and procedures to overhaul. My view for the accumulator 20Nm should be enough. I used 30Nm. The accumulator will not rotate anywhere after 15Nm in my case. If you were able to unscrew the Accumulator out by hand it means that the Accumulator was not fully screwed in. The accumulators seems to have a habit in some cases to unscrewing themselves over time. When the o-ring seal becomes visible the system will not maintain pressue and the mechatronics will fail.
Very interesting video!
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Thanks!
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Unfortunately the driver and lack of knowledge of these dsg/ getrag powershift gearboxes is the main problem . Once a driver understands the workings and maintenance involved, they will then full appreciate it!
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well done .. 😊👍
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Thanks!
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Mine said loss in connection in transition module. The car would not start
Hi, very good video
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Thanks!
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hi sir, would you mind share the diagram to connect vcds to mechatronic as shown in video? refer to minutes of 45.00
Thank you in advance.
Aizat from Malaysia
Just google the pinout of the mechatronics plug... then connect accordingly... that's just how I have done it...
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Hello from malaysia..how much torq value for pump,body and motor screw??
Enough...🤪
Unfortunately I don't have the specs for it...
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nice to see you work in this but i would ask aqusetion how i check pressure acmoulator with thanks im your foller from iraq
If the pressure accumulator is bad, your pressure on live data will drop really quick...
As the accumulator is not really accumulating anything...
Hope it makes sense...
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Hi one person should pour fluid on pump as u turn it should shoot out quiet firmly thanks
Hey man. I have a dq200 7 speed my car isn't going into reverse and making a lot of noise only in reverse but in drive gear it's working smooth as butter can you give me some suggestions as the people at VW told me when they scanned the error was in mechatronic
Hi
It can be the mechatronics, however, if all the other gears and gear changes are OK, I would be more inclined for a mechanical issue in the gearbox itself...
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@@LMAutoRepairs could it be the synchronizer ring? Or low transmission fluid because once I took the car it started working in reverse but stopped again. Don't wanna sell my kidney to get it fixed
@@anki2451
It could well be...
But until you take it apart it is difficult to tell...
I just dubious that is the mechatronics, because if it was, you would most likely have issues on other gears...
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wow,very good video..is possible help me to find a Nm of screws ?? for connect with VCDS is only connect to bus of dq200 ??
very thanks for this video
Yes... CAN high and CAN low...
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@@LMAutoRepairs and for Nm ?? Is possible send me your email or WhatsApp on pm ??
Fantastic!
☺️
Thanks!
Good Afternoon Luis, I from Malaysia and have a DQ200 gearbox and I meet some problem now. when I driving the gear will turn to nothing and I cannot run aways my car. after that I need restart back the engine then just can continue driving. what is the problem?
🤷♂️
Impossible to say what the problem is...
Scan the car, check live data and go from there...
Anything else, it is pure guess work...
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@@LMAutoRepairs hi how much for a repair to a VW dgs 7 speed
I have had this issue in Seat Arona 2022 .. It is again Mechatronic and found it leaking oil.. It is extremely expensive
I had to get a VW genuine Hydraulic oil and I replaced the oil and it looks fine now, but at least I need to change gasket to stop the leaks
@ahmedettir5697
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Great master!
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Helpful vedio as always
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Thanks!
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Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching!
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Hi Leo,great video,s, love the content,keep um cummin ,a question if might ask about some thing not relevant to this video,basically had to replace my engine ecu as was intermittently causing engine failure by way of detination,I have a forth engine to replace 3rd that's still in the car ,so have replaced ecu, uch,steering lock and key card ,o lying problem is not opening hatch other than that all good,used clip to go to uch access setup,scrolled down the list,tailgate is in the list,but says absent,all others say with or with out,is there a way of sorting this problem out it's a reno scenic 1.5dci 2005 with the N2 uch,any help or advice welcome,using car at moment with boot locked thanks
Can you not code it as present?
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No because in the uch using clip these options are greyed out and say absent using 210 of clip,is the security side on a separate chip,thinking only option is to see if either clone original data or exchange the chip etc
Ah...
Try perhaps renolink...
I have renolink 152,can parts of the uch be reprogrammed separately,so as not to interference with security side of it.thanks paul. Have a great evening
Renolink goes a bit more in depth depending on the hardware and software of the modules, etc...
Might worth to give it a go...
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I have a 99 lt with 12.000 miles on it .
😊
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Any fix on the p1707 code please
On the 7 speed dry clutch?
Hi,
I got used dsg gearbox vw golf 2.0 gtd 2016,, same metronic from my old dsg gearbox, fill up gearbox oil, around 6 litres, not going in reverse and also jump in drive gear too, I code up p271100 unexpected michanical. disengagement,?
Thank you
Previous dsg gearbox had issue made bang noise, lost power in gear, I had to get used gearbox
Which DSG is that, 6 liters seems a bit too much oil.... but, have you used the old mechatronics or is that the "new" one?
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@@LMAutoRepairs
Old metronic
@kerbsideauto4940
OK... so, I would say, do an adaptation etc... if same problem, than you either have a bacd mechatronics or you got a bad gearbox...
I am having this problem now, the mechatronics was replaced but now after 1 month it is back going in and out of gears whilst i am driving and especially going over humps. Can you help me
Was replaced with what?
A used unit?
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@LMAutoRepairs apparently a new 1 but it's still jumping in and out of gears after receiving it back within a month
Top Video
Thanks!
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Cant a weak car battery cause low readings on live data when you scan it ?
Low battery can cause all sort of glitches and weird behaviours...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I left my lights on all night had to jump start my battery since the incident my spanner light comes on and D1 D2 D3 etc start flashing have live scanned it it's reading 32 bar and when I turn ignition you can hear the pump or motor on mechatronic I really believe it's down to my battery what damaged my mechatronic has it was fine before
@@shanehutchinson785
Could be...
Got a quote for my mechatronic 850 British pound my pump/ motor stays on when you switch ignition on a bad battery would not cause that would it I'm i correct, what actually keeps the motor/pump constantly running please ?
@@shanehutchinson785
Possibly an internal hydraulic leak...
Hi, i need help building a test station like your to test the units can you assist
You just connect powers and can lines directly to VCDS...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I don't know which are the power and can lines im new at this
@LDR-cv5jr
Just google DG200 pinout...
😉
My Mechatronics pushes out oil what might be the problem?
Out where?
@@LMAutoRepairs on top next to the valve
Not sure what you are referring to...
But either way, oil should not coming out from the mechatronics unit...
You need to investigate further...
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good work but 😭you talk so so much..love you ❤️
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@LMAutoRepairs I want to ask something my dq200 give me code p177f lowe voltage motor not coming on again my research say that I must replace mechatronic tcu I was thinking I can I use a 3 phase controller to control the motor to build pressure. Because once the tcu detected pressure it will work ?
@ricardodavis9972
Doubt it will work...
As the tcu will not not be able to control the motor and most likely will throw faults for it...
Check powers and grounds...
Make sure the controller is getting a good voltage and current feed...
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@LMAutoRepairs when I remove mechatronic cover after remove the oil with key on the motor only pulsing like it want to spin but nothing more no matter I do I just bought this car vw golf estate mk5 2009 battery is brand new I teat all the wiring at the connection everything is OK tcu is picking on my scan tool
What is the voltage readings of the motor on live data?
Could be a bad tcu...
Hi sir are you in the us? Can I send you mine for repair?
I am on the other side of the pond...
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Hey Luis,
I'm having a hard time with my rebuild. Is it possible to get a paid video consultation from you? Something like 30-60 minutes. Alternatively you can pick out some stuff from your wish list you'd like to have.
Could really use some help right now. Thanks :)
What are you struggling with?
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@@LMAutoRepairs
I did the rebuild and it went fine but pressure couldn't build so the pump kept running.
The only problem I could find when I first took it apart is that there was a significant amount of debris on two solenoids which I cleaned. The solenoids were tested and all worked and sounded the same when actuating.
Then when I took it apart the second time I found that the O ring on the accumulator had split partly but looked fine otherwise. I believe that it could have happened due to not using any grease or oil when installing it to the new (and dry) valve body housing. Could this be the issue?
I didn't use a torque wrench so maybe there was unequal distribution of tension on the screws? Although I felt I was tightening them all pretty much the same.
My idea now is to take everything apart. Clean it with solvent and compressed air. Put it all back and torque everything the same.
The new valve body came with the extra screw on the side and the pin on top but I'm now starting to question if there is a ball in there or not or if I was supposed to transfer the ball or balls from my original housing. Is it okay to take the pin out and the screw to check or is it very hard to put back together?
Sorry for the long text but I tried to compress it as much as possible.
Easy to put back on...
Yes, some housings come without it...
You need to make sure that is in place.
Also, check and double check the pump... if in doubt, get a new pump...
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@@LMAutoRepairs
Okay let's see the latest development...
I got a new O-ring.
My tightening torques are,
5 Nm Solenoid plastic housing
12 Nm Valve body screws
35 Nm Accumulator
The result is 6.5 bar in VCDS.
I know the accumulator is low torque but I wanted to see how it changes so I hit the accumulator with somewhere between 45 - 50 Nm.
This time I get 9.5 bar
So my question to you, sir, is if you believe that I can achieve the needed pressure if I go to 70 Nm with the accumulator or if there is something else that's going on or needs to be tightened?
It's just really scary for me to apply that kind of torque to that flimsy looking aluminum housing. I feel like I'm going to break it.
Is the pump running freely and to the right RPMs?
Perhaps a bad or worn pump?
As for the torques, I usually do it by feeling, as I never really found decisive torque settings... surely they are it there somewhere though...😊
Good morning Luis. I have a question. Can You virginise KIA/Hyundai ECU SIM2k-141? I need it for my private car for diagnostic purpose. Best regards.
How much this repair?
Nice
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Thanks!
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On RUclips sorry !
I didn't really announced it this year...
Next time!
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Would you be able to repair my mechatronic
You really use these Chinese crappy alligator wires? There is only several copper strands and can not handle anything. By 8 amps...these started melting?
They are the cheap ones, but I have replaced the wires, just keeping the alligator...
I know the original ones are crap...
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Why did u buy comments,😢
What?
Buy comments?
What are you talking about?
I did all of them, it didn't work, all the programs are useless.
Which programs are you talking about?
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Thanks so much for the video👍👍
😊
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