Thanks for the great video! My left ear really liked it. I hope Juha makes a respose video with audio only in the right side, and then I could play both videos at the same time simulating a metallurgist argument haha
Thank you for another welcome addition to my knowledge of knife steels and their properties. The more I learn, the happier I am I ponied up for an Evenheat.
Interesting video, I'm glad you brought this up. At least I can say that Juha Perttula makes good knives. Juha's knives are quite unique and you get really good value for money.
Always welcoming to have more academic sources running around in public, mostly because the material they produce can take some digging to find compared to say the more accessible platforms like this. Plus having people with a working knowledge of the metal itself also expands a lot of the practical uses of it for us dumb dumbs down here whacking stuff with hammers and turning it into dust on grinders
My insight from this piece is that these blades are, in essence, composite materials analogous to fiberglass. Aside from differences in basic substances, the metal structure is at a smaller scale than fiberglass....
There's a JIS steel, SKS 44, that's got 0.1-0.25% V, 0.8-0.9% C, and 0.2% Cr max (as impurity).No clue if it's available, but it'd be cool to check out if it were!
So many alloys exist only on paper or sold only to weird customers in bulk where you'd never know what the steel was in the final product. 1078 is an example if I'm not mistaken. Mod versions exist but are so far outside the specs they're not really the same steel. But the paper specs exist only on paper as far as anyone can find. Other then a few smith's ordering in bulk. Howard clark had to do that for his 1084m if I'm not mistaken. Something like 10,000 pounds of the shit minimum order requirements and shipped in round stock.
Interestingly enough on wootz alot of the myths were like over exaggerations and a the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence type situation. Most wootz swords are unhardened or only hardened on the edge so there goes the springy blade theory. And they also tend to cut better Un hardened according to a few modern makers of wootz blades. That said it likely still performed better then alpt of earlier European steels which were similar to Japanese bloomery steel till well after the medieval period and into the Renaissance period. Actually a key area of my research and why I'm trying to get the sword company rolling I talked about with you on Instagram. Wootz may have been imported into Japan and used by some hizen school sword smith's. We do know some form of iron or steel was imported into Japan and we also know that Japanese sword smith's were using foreign steels there's the whole namban tetsu marked blades. Problem is it'd be forge welded and folded together with bloomery steel. So only way to test is the way they're using radio analysis on wootz blades from museums. Scholagladitoria has a video on it, well the radio analysis of wootz. I'm going to be doing some lamination using wootz and bloomery steel simulating tamahagane very closely and doing forms of destructive analysis to test for alloying agents not found in Japanese steels by required for wootz carbide formation. Should also present some sulfur and phosphorus contamination above normal levels. These base readings can be used to use the radio testing on nihonto blades to either confirm or deny it. And since it's specific hizen smith's and swords in question in gets easier to confirm or deny. There's also some bits of wootz we still don't fully understand even after verhoevens work among others. Mike loades has a video on his channel about it.
Bending angle until breaking is simply not a good substitute for toughness, because we want to know the energy it takes to break it. The bending angle measures the ductility. Toilet paper can be bent at extreme angles, but it's not very tough, is it.
Depends on how much metallurgy you have under your belt. Someone hit up a steel maker and had damasteel made which is powdered metallurgy Damascus. If you had enough experience and could make a small block of non powdered metallurgy steel to test the alloy out to a certain level you could probably provide samples to a steel manufacturer and work out a deal. I believe that's what busse knifes did with infi steel.
What counts as "best" varies depending on use. The best chef knife steel won't be the best bushcraft knife steel, and neither will be the best diver's knife steel. Depending on metallurgical formulation, there's tradeoffs between toughness, edge retention, and "stainless-ness". However, wasn't Dr. Thomas' own CPM MagnaCut supposed to be the balanced "jack of all trades" powdered steel? Good balance of toughness, edge retention, being stainless, and being forgeable and machinable?
@The Kash Connoisseur there are however some steels that could be generalized as a best blade steel due to the balancing act of the alloying agents and specific heattreatment procedures. Z tuff for example has basically as much toughness as the second best sword steel available, but at a much higher hardness level, with better abrasion and corrosion resistance. Albeit expensive af. For folded blades with only 1 type of steel, 1095 and similar is probably best given you'll end up around that sweet spot of .7 ish percent carbon for simple steels. 8670 while poor for a catra edge test is probably extremely similar to 5160, and 5160 is one of the best sword steels and used in tough choppers very often. Meaning you can probably balance edge retention and such with hardness and keep toughness similar. This breaks things down into a few categories which we can balance individually but with some cross over in certain cases. For knives given you don't need the same shock resistance swords can take again higher hardness and not necessarily as much toughness needed. If we ignore how easy it is to sharpen or include that things can change a bit. But then breaks it down into a 2 sub category for other categories and only some for practicality sake. Example. For choppers z tuff, 8670 if you want to go the cheaper route 5160 after that. If you don't need something that durable you can step down a notch and trade it off for other characteristics or price points. But alot of steels used in knives are kinda just hype and marketing and they perform about the same as cheaper more common alloys pr very close. And given 1095 with good heattreatment can work for swords it's not hard to find perfect steels. Albeit heattreatment is mad important and more so then steel choice. But if we just discuss in terms of finding perfect heattreatment Albeit unrealistic for many smith's companies could easily swing it. Pretty much what busse combat knives did for infi steel. Pretty sure it's just an A8 mod steel.
@@bmxriderforlife1234 Well, the cool thing about Larin's CPM MagnaCut is you can achieve a really good balance of toughness, edge retention, stainless aspects, and can harden to 60+ Rockwell C. But again, it depends on the use case. The best general purpose pocket knife steel won't make the best general purpose chopper steel (hence why there aren't many folding knives in 5160 or 1095, but plenty in 8Cr13MoV). The best steel for a rapier won't be the best steel for a broadsword. The best steel for a knife issued to Army soldiers won't be the best steel to give to SEALs. Heat treatment can improve some aspects of steels, but always at the expense of others. If you use a heat treat that makes a certain steel tougher, it's going to sacrifice edge retention/wear resistance vs a standard heat treat, etc. If you use a heat treat to increase edge retention, you will impact toughness, and also possibly stainless-ness, plus the steel will be more difficult to finish grind. What you describe also adds the constraint of COST, which, when talking about The Best Possible, is generally the first constraint thrown out of the window. The best steel that balances cost and mechanical properties will never be the best steel POSSIBLE for a given application, heat treatment not withstanding.
@The Kash Connoisseur not trying to be rude you're completely correct on some regards. However I am literally in the process of starting a reproduction sword company. And despite needing to work out many kinks and details I've actually astounded myself and recreated at least a form of Howard Clark's famous L6 bainite martensite hamon heat treatment. Although something tells me I'm not doing it the same way he is. Anyways. For a Rapier and a broadsword you'd probably be fine in using the same steel for both. Certain steels for certain types of swords especially if you want hamon, don't work well, but other then that in swords you're kinda looking for the same characteristics regardless. Many steels work well but for a perfected set up it's pretty simple unless you start tweaking things or looking to achieve well beyond normal edge retention or rust resistance. And even then z tuff is probably your best bet there. For more simple alloy steels. 8670 is one of the best, 5160 Is cheaper though and close enough in performance. And 8670 has a few versions and seems some perform alot better then others. Knives yeah, but there's probably well more alloys in circulation then need be. Albeit price points also come into regards. Mixed purpose knives would be the hardest to balance. And some kitchen knives. But some blade profile shit can play some roles as well. And we can probably tune to blade profiles as well. For swords if my company works out, I have a few alloys intended to be used but each has different purposes. 1095 or something similar that can be pattern welded without any other steels and get down to the .7 ish percent carbon that seems to be the sweet spot. For non pattern welded blades on the Asian line depends on if hamon or not. Domestic line, 8670, potentially z tuff if they'll sell if in bulk at the right size without having to go full buck wild on 5 ton plus orders. Few other steels as well. Might be ordering custom mod blends for certain alloys. 8670 seems like a decent starting point to test some theories I have for sword steels. But so does 1078 which I'd have to custom order in like 5 ton batches. Also fancy heattreatment and various heattreatment types. The martensite edge bainite spine being one. But also probably a regular martensite pearlite blend on Asian produced line and a cheaper domestic line. Haven't decided on the euro swords and spring tempered stuff yet 100 percent. But 5160 is kind of considered a market leader in swords. Except katana cause bad for differential hardening. 8670 is tougher at a little harder. And less prone to tempered martensite embrittlement. Z tuff is much harder and rust and abrasion resistant for equal toughness. Hardness can help with bending forces. Unless it surpasses the tensile strength. So tweaking heattreatment to steel is important. But you can kinda tweak things to certain alloys that just work. That's what busse infi steel is. For choppers you can still see similar abuse to swords and more but blade profiles can help. Many are closer to katana with thicker spines that help. Means you can get away with something like 5160 strength level but harder and over all better. Z tuff albeit expensive would be a top pick. For cheap. 8670 is more expensive then 5160. But still cheap. Margins though 5160 is more readily available and Unless you want hamon no need for extra costs. But with harder edges on katana and a bainite spine it can work out well. But complex like 20 hour plus heattreatment process. With risk of cracked blades. So like 1000 plus dollar heattreatment on a 75 dollar blank maybe 120 after machining costs. Vs z tuff would get you enough toughness and higher hardness and the rest but more steel costs. So ease of heattreatment is another concern. So some of it isn't just about knife quality but multiple other factors. For smith's you have forging difficultly and powdered steels are known for being hard af to forge and machine. But for just trying to order or create something it's not hard. If you can order minimum steel requirements then it's possible to tune the steel better. Howard Clark has done this. Vanadium modified 1084 or 1086 I forget which. Off the shelf. 5160 8670 z tuff for choppers. Probably z tuff for balance. Pocket knives there are some expensive similar alloys that perform. Larrins alloy seems like a great kinda all around alloy though. I'm actually intending to have him help with some metallurgy stuff with my sword company if investors stuff works out. Trying to decide on readily available steels in Asia and heattreatment procedure for the Asian line. And some potential help with custom blends. Also kinda want to pull a damasteel and use powdered metallurgy to create repeatable wootz and tamahagane/bloomery steel billets for knife makers ready to machine. Both need forge refinement but powdered metallurgy should help with that a bit. Also helps with some research I'm doing. Hizen wootz theory if you happen to be curious. Short version some hizen smith's may have used wootz or other crucible steels mixed with traditional steel in sword making. Imported by the Portuguese. Relates to the namban tetsu project and namban tetsu marked blades.
Never liked the recommendation for people to start in a forge with 1084. the grain grows in 10 or 15 seconds of moderate overtemperature - to double the original size. Who knows what beyond that. more overheat than that with 80crv2 and nothing happens. I have pictures of this -I know they're not appreciated, but I favor the overshot method and like Juha says, it has to be quick. I guess if I see nothing in grain growth in snapped samples (in 15 seconds), then my shade of overheat may be lower than Juha's. the samples of 26c3 that I sent and that had higher toughness than the book charts were overshot a fair amount - but not for long. Seconds. Finding that worked misled me to believe 1084 would work well that way. 80crv2 does.
It's good for learning but not good performing if done badly. Also quenching it in household oil will also do it wrong. Needs water or parks 50. Best to use 5160 spring steel, or 52100 or something else with some grain pinning of some sort, like 80CrV2.
not a fan of the carbide bands. I'm guessing that wootz ended up with bands historically because of labor. Imagine how it would have been to use compared to bronze - probably great. But bands belong on stages in the 2020s - not in steel.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the great video!
My left ear really liked it. I hope Juha makes a respose video with audio only in the right side, and then I could play both videos at the same time simulating a metallurgist argument haha
Thank you for another welcome addition to my knowledge of knife steels and their properties. The more I learn, the happier I am I ponied up for an Evenheat.
Love these sorts of videos. Hopefully that interview comes to be 👍
Great content once again..appreciate the on going research..Thank you..
Ah yes! A worthy rival. (Simon Sinek) That's great to have because it will push you both to produce more of this excellent content.
Interesting video, I'm glad you brought this up. At least I can say that Juha Perttula makes good knives. Juha's knives are quite unique and you get really good value for money.
Great video. Thank you again
Always welcoming to have more academic sources running around in public, mostly because the material they produce can take some digging to find compared to say the more accessible platforms like this. Plus having people with a working knowledge of the metal itself also expands a lot of the practical uses of it for us dumb dumbs down here whacking stuff with hammers and turning it into dust on grinders
As one of the dumb dumbs I concur.
Great video!
Hey man, thank you for the new video!
But the last two video's have had no audio from right side. Makes it very weird to listen to with headphones.
Great stuff!
Soft J.
Juha = You-ha.
Like Johann 👍
I like that the thumbnail arrow points to his giant smart head.
There are rumors, that Letherman will do multitool with magnacut blade. If it is true, HUGE CONGRATULATIONS!
Yeah, science! 👐
My insight from this piece is that these blades are, in essence, composite materials analogous to fiberglass. Aside from differences in basic substances, the metal structure is at a smaller scale than fiberglass....
Is there a video on how the wootz is made?
There's a JIS steel, SKS 44, that's got 0.1-0.25% V, 0.8-0.9% C, and 0.2% Cr max (as impurity).No clue if it's available, but it'd be cool to check out if it were!
So many alloys exist only on paper or sold only to weird customers in bulk where you'd never know what the steel was in the final product. 1078 is an example if I'm not mistaken. Mod versions exist but are so far outside the specs they're not really the same steel. But the paper specs exist only on paper as far as anyone can find. Other then a few smith's ordering in bulk.
Howard clark had to do that for his 1084m if I'm not mistaken. Something like 10,000 pounds of the shit minimum order requirements and shipped in round stock.
what is k329 steel? what is its equivalent in toughness, edge retention, stainless etc
Dueling CATRA coupons at 20 paces!
it would be amazing an interview or a talk betwee yuo two
Hopefully Juha would interview, these are great topics. How the compositions reactions interact under different methods during Time and Temp's.
Interestingly enough on wootz alot of the myths were like over exaggerations and a the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence type situation.
Most wootz swords are unhardened or only hardened on the edge so there goes the springy blade theory. And they also tend to cut better Un hardened according to a few modern makers of wootz blades.
That said it likely still performed better then alpt of earlier European steels which were similar to Japanese bloomery steel till well after the medieval period and into the Renaissance period.
Actually a key area of my research and why I'm trying to get the sword company rolling I talked about with you on Instagram. Wootz may have been imported into Japan and used by some hizen school sword smith's. We do know some form of iron or steel was imported into Japan and we also know that Japanese sword smith's were using foreign steels there's the whole namban tetsu marked blades.
Problem is it'd be forge welded and folded together with bloomery steel. So only way to test is the way they're using radio analysis on wootz blades from museums. Scholagladitoria has a video on it, well the radio analysis of wootz. I'm going to be doing some lamination using wootz and bloomery steel simulating tamahagane very closely and doing forms of destructive analysis to test for alloying agents not found in Japanese steels by required for wootz carbide formation.
Should also present some sulfur and phosphorus contamination above normal levels. These base readings can be used to use the radio testing on nihonto blades to either confirm or deny it. And since it's specific hizen smith's and swords in question in gets easier to confirm or deny.
There's also some bits of wootz we still don't fully understand even after verhoevens work among others. Mike loades has a video on his channel about it.
Bending angle until breaking is simply not a good substitute for toughness, because we want to know the energy it takes to break it. The bending angle measures the ductility. Toilet paper can be bent at extreme angles, but it's not very tough, is it.
A comment for the algorithm.
👍✌️
I ❤️ puukkos
Is this audio left of centre, or are my headphone failing ?
Dr Thomas we appreciate ur humbleness but no matter what we support u over any other metallurgist. U are our guy to the end.
There can be only one
I wonder how much it would be to formulate our own powered steel for best of all worlds
Depends on how much metallurgy you have under your belt.
Someone hit up a steel maker and had damasteel made which is powdered metallurgy Damascus. If you had enough experience and could make a small block of non powdered metallurgy steel to test the alloy out to a certain level you could probably provide samples to a steel manufacturer and work out a deal.
I believe that's what busse knifes did with infi steel.
What counts as "best" varies depending on use. The best chef knife steel won't be the best bushcraft knife steel, and neither will be the best diver's knife steel. Depending on metallurgical formulation, there's tradeoffs between toughness, edge retention, and "stainless-ness".
However, wasn't Dr. Thomas' own CPM MagnaCut supposed to be the balanced "jack of all trades" powdered steel? Good balance of toughness, edge retention, being stainless, and being forgeable and machinable?
@The Kash Connoisseur there are however some steels that could be generalized as a best blade steel due to the balancing act of the alloying agents and specific heattreatment procedures.
Z tuff for example has basically as much toughness as the second best sword steel available, but at a much higher hardness level, with better abrasion and corrosion resistance. Albeit expensive af.
For folded blades with only 1 type of steel, 1095 and similar is probably best given you'll end up around that sweet spot of .7 ish percent carbon for simple steels.
8670 while poor for a catra edge test is probably extremely similar to 5160, and 5160 is one of the best sword steels and used in tough choppers very often. Meaning you can probably balance edge retention and such with hardness and keep toughness similar.
This breaks things down into a few categories which we can balance individually but with some cross over in certain cases. For knives given you don't need the same shock resistance swords can take again higher hardness and not necessarily as much toughness needed.
If we ignore how easy it is to sharpen or include that things can change a bit. But then breaks it down into a 2 sub category for other categories and only some for practicality sake.
Example. For choppers z tuff, 8670 if you want to go the cheaper route 5160 after that. If you don't need something that durable you can step down a notch and trade it off for other characteristics or price points.
But alot of steels used in knives are kinda just hype and marketing and they perform about the same as cheaper more common alloys pr very close. And given 1095 with good heattreatment can work for swords it's not hard to find perfect steels. Albeit heattreatment is mad important and more so then steel choice. But if we just discuss in terms of finding perfect heattreatment Albeit unrealistic for many smith's companies could easily swing it.
Pretty much what busse combat knives did for infi steel. Pretty sure it's just an A8 mod steel.
@@bmxriderforlife1234 Well, the cool thing about Larin's CPM MagnaCut is you can achieve a really good balance of toughness, edge retention, stainless aspects, and can harden to 60+ Rockwell C.
But again, it depends on the use case. The best general purpose pocket knife steel won't make the best general purpose chopper steel (hence why there aren't many folding knives in 5160 or 1095, but plenty in 8Cr13MoV). The best steel for a rapier won't be the best steel for a broadsword. The best steel for a knife issued to Army soldiers won't be the best steel to give to SEALs. Heat treatment can improve some aspects of steels, but always at the expense of others. If you use a heat treat that makes a certain steel tougher, it's going to sacrifice edge retention/wear resistance vs a standard heat treat, etc. If you use a heat treat to increase edge retention, you will impact toughness, and also possibly stainless-ness, plus the steel will be more difficult to finish grind.
What you describe also adds the constraint of COST, which, when talking about The Best Possible, is generally the first constraint thrown out of the window. The best steel that balances cost and mechanical properties will never be the best steel POSSIBLE for a given application, heat treatment not withstanding.
@The Kash Connoisseur not trying to be rude you're completely correct on some regards.
However I am literally in the process of starting a reproduction sword company. And despite needing to work out many kinks and details I've actually astounded myself and recreated at least a form of Howard Clark's famous L6 bainite martensite hamon heat treatment. Although something tells me I'm not doing it the same way he is.
Anyways. For a Rapier and a broadsword you'd probably be fine in using the same steel for both. Certain steels for certain types of swords especially if you want hamon, don't work well, but other then that in swords you're kinda looking for the same characteristics regardless. Many steels work well but for a perfected set up it's pretty simple unless you start tweaking things or looking to achieve well beyond normal edge retention or rust resistance. And even then z tuff is probably your best bet there.
For more simple alloy steels. 8670 is one of the best, 5160 Is cheaper though and close enough in performance. And 8670 has a few versions and seems some perform alot better then others.
Knives yeah, but there's probably well more alloys in circulation then need be. Albeit price points also come into regards.
Mixed purpose knives would be the hardest to balance. And some kitchen knives.
But some blade profile shit can play some roles as well. And we can probably tune to blade profiles as well.
For swords if my company works out, I have a few alloys intended to be used but each has different purposes. 1095 or something similar that can be pattern welded without any other steels and get down to the .7 ish percent carbon that seems to be the sweet spot. For non pattern welded blades on the Asian line depends on if hamon or not.
Domestic line, 8670, potentially z tuff if they'll sell if in bulk at the right size without having to go full buck wild on 5 ton plus orders. Few other steels as well. Might be ordering custom mod blends for certain alloys. 8670 seems like a decent starting point to test some theories I have for sword steels. But so does 1078 which I'd have to custom order in like 5 ton batches.
Also fancy heattreatment and various heattreatment types. The martensite edge bainite spine being one. But also probably a regular martensite pearlite blend on Asian produced line and a cheaper domestic line. Haven't decided on the euro swords and spring tempered stuff yet 100 percent.
But 5160 is kind of considered a market leader in swords. Except katana cause bad for differential hardening. 8670 is tougher at a little harder. And less prone to tempered martensite embrittlement. Z tuff is much harder and rust and abrasion resistant for equal toughness. Hardness can help with bending forces. Unless it surpasses the tensile strength.
So tweaking heattreatment to steel is important. But you can kinda tweak things to certain alloys that just work. That's what busse infi steel is.
For choppers you can still see similar abuse to swords and more but blade profiles can help. Many are closer to katana with thicker spines that help. Means you can get away with something like 5160 strength level but harder and over all better. Z tuff albeit expensive would be a top pick.
For cheap. 8670 is more expensive then 5160. But still cheap. Margins though 5160 is more readily available and Unless you want hamon no need for extra costs. But with harder edges on katana and a bainite spine it can work out well. But complex like 20 hour plus heattreatment process. With risk of cracked blades. So like 1000 plus dollar heattreatment on a 75 dollar blank maybe 120 after machining costs. Vs z tuff would get you enough toughness and higher hardness and the rest but more steel costs.
So ease of heattreatment is another concern. So some of it isn't just about knife quality but multiple other factors.
For smith's you have forging difficultly and powdered steels are known for being hard af to forge and machine. But for just trying to order or create something it's not hard.
If you can order minimum steel requirements then it's possible to tune the steel better. Howard Clark has done this. Vanadium modified 1084 or 1086 I forget which.
Off the shelf. 5160 8670 z tuff for choppers. Probably z tuff for balance. Pocket knives there are some expensive similar alloys that perform.
Larrins alloy seems like a great kinda all around alloy though. I'm actually intending to have him help with some metallurgy stuff with my sword company if investors stuff works out. Trying to decide on readily available steels in Asia and heattreatment procedure for the Asian line. And some potential help with custom blends.
Also kinda want to pull a damasteel and use powdered metallurgy to create repeatable wootz and tamahagane/bloomery steel billets for knife makers ready to machine. Both need forge refinement but powdered metallurgy should help with that a bit. Also helps with some research I'm doing. Hizen wootz theory if you happen to be curious. Short version some hizen smith's may have used wootz or other crucible steels mixed with traditional steel in sword making. Imported by the Portuguese. Relates to the namban tetsu project and namban tetsu marked blades.
Never liked the recommendation for people to start in a forge with 1084. the grain grows in 10 or 15 seconds of moderate overtemperature - to double the original size. Who knows what beyond that.
more overheat than that with 80crv2 and nothing happens. I have pictures of this -I know they're not appreciated, but I favor the overshot method and like Juha says, it has to be quick.
I guess if I see nothing in grain growth in snapped samples (in 15 seconds), then my shade of overheat may be lower than Juha's.
the samples of 26c3 that I sent and that had higher toughness than the book charts were overshot a fair amount - but not for long. Seconds. Finding that worked misled me to believe 1084 would work well that way. 80crv2 does.
It's good for learning but not good performing if done badly. Also quenching it in household oil will also do it wrong. Needs water or parks 50. Best to use 5160 spring steel, or 52100 or something else with some grain pinning of some sort, like 80CrV2.
There can be only one.
not a fan of the carbide bands. I'm guessing that wootz ended up with bands historically because of labor. Imagine how it would have been to use compared to bronze - probably great. But bands belong on stages in the 2020s - not in steel.
If you could fix your mic situation that'd be good
Really just the mixing the left mono to balanced stereo would be nice
@@error.418 Idk much about audio except that my left ear was interested in this
@@SiliconeSword lol, valid
Simple solution: watch the video twice, but switch your headphones around so that your other ear can take it all in as well.
@@theKashConnoisseur kkkkkk
I hear that he also likes to eat hot wings.
Way over my head. I'm a biologist that likes good knives.
momo sound?
Wow you really butchered poor Juhas name
What would be a proper Finnish pronunciation? "Yooha"?
We're American. we leave it to the euros and the English to swing purses about pronouncing things that we couldn't possibly guess at here.
/ˈjuhɑ/ /ˈpertːulɑ/