Thank you for this video. I've seen so many over complicated videos on RUclips about dipoles, but yours was simple, straight to the point and very easy to follow. Thank you.
Good explanation and demonstration. A couple comments that may help. I usually just tie a knot in the antenna wire at the center insulator. Depending on type of wire. With stranded a knot works but I have used almost exclusively solid copper wire for 60 years. Used stranded once because my boss purchased stranded wire! If number 14 or 12 solid wire I just pass the wire through the insulator and wrap a couple turns around the main wire and then down to the coax connection point. Very few of my wire antennas have broken unless a tree or large branch falls on it! Most were up 10 years before I either changed them or changed locations. I also always use the same electrical tape method. Since 1961. It always works for me. For portable / temporary antennas I have used standard electrical wire nuts, stainless screws and nuts, and of course solder. For an expected long term antenna I solder. Typically I use a coax pigtail long enough to reach the ground and put a PL-259 there where I can connect additional coax without putting a strain on the connector. Sometimes I just use a long enough cable from the antenna to reach my remote coax switch. Otherwise I use a barrel connector at the ground. For waterproofing there I use a self fusing or self vulcanizing tape. I use Rescue Tape which is sold by Ace Hardware. It comes off easy with no sticky mess like regular electrical tape. 3M has a similar product. Also for portable antennas I frequently do not use insulators at the ends of the antenna only in the middle. I make a loop at the end and any non conducting rope works. Saves weight and money. Under 100 watts only. For high power I do use insulators as the voltage at the end of a wire can be high. There are some new “wire nuts” called Wago lever wire connectors that I plan to try. Like the Crimper! For crimping the right tool is absolutely mandatory. If done right a crimp is great! 73, DE N4DJ
I love your comments. When we built these at the club meeting, we stressed that this particular build was probably not going to be resilient enough for a permanent installation, but once tuned would be a good POTA or weekends only antenna. It's a terrific project to learn the art.
Coax, once stripped. Push the braid towards the jacket, this will loosen and shorten it, like a Chinese finger puzzle. Then make a hole in between the braid picks next to the jacket. Slightly bend the dielectric and pull it through the hole Using a shepherd hook. The braid stays intact, pull on the braid to elongate it again, and twist it as necessary.
I am planning to build a dipole on the lighter side but able to handle 400 watts or so. This is a good plan. The span I have to cross doesn't have any center support so up to now I have been using end fed antennas. It's gonna be a lot longer than a 10 meter antenna though.
Do NOT twist the wire. When you twist a wire and then crimp, you end up with air pockets which are oxidizing over time. When you don't twist and then crimp, you have a solid airtight piece of metal.
Good video guys. One question where do you take the measurements from for the wire length. Once you know you need say 34ft each wire in the dipole for a 40m 1/2 wave, where do you measure from to set the length correctly. You had said in the video the wire that came through the centre insulator is counted as part of the wire length then you edited that with text I noticed. Thanks guys
Good question! As I understand it, the radiating length of a Dipole is comprised of the horizontal lengths of wire. Those lengths from the feed point to the clamps do not count.
Why did you break the insulation at the end? Looks like that is where you would end the wire, instead. Pull while you twist, and don't twist too much. You are twisting too much. 73
Thank you for this video. I've seen so many over complicated videos on RUclips about dipoles, but yours was simple, straight to the point and very easy to follow. Thank you.
Good explanation and demonstration. A couple comments that may help. I usually just tie a knot in the antenna wire at the center insulator. Depending on type of wire. With stranded a knot works but I have used almost exclusively solid copper wire for 60 years. Used stranded once because my boss purchased stranded wire! If number 14 or 12 solid wire I just pass the wire through the insulator and wrap a couple turns around the main wire and then down to the coax connection point. Very few of my wire antennas have broken unless a tree or large branch falls on it! Most were up 10 years before I either changed them or changed locations.
I also always use the same electrical tape method. Since 1961. It always works for me.
For portable / temporary antennas I have used standard electrical wire nuts, stainless screws and nuts, and of course solder. For an expected long term antenna I solder. Typically I use a coax pigtail long enough to reach the ground and put a PL-259 there where I can connect additional coax without putting a strain on the connector. Sometimes I just use a long enough cable from the antenna to reach my remote coax switch. Otherwise I use a barrel connector at the ground. For waterproofing there I use a self fusing or self vulcanizing tape. I use Rescue Tape which is sold by Ace Hardware. It comes off easy with no sticky mess like regular electrical tape. 3M has a similar product. Also for portable antennas I frequently do not use insulators at the ends of the antenna only in the middle. I make a loop at the end and any non conducting rope works. Saves weight and money. Under 100 watts only. For high power I do use insulators as the voltage at the end of a wire can be high. There are some new “wire nuts” called Wago lever wire connectors that I plan to try.
Like the Crimper! For crimping the right tool is absolutely mandatory. If done right a crimp is great!
73,
DE
N4DJ
I love your comments. When we built these at the club meeting, we stressed that this particular build was probably not going to be resilient enough for a permanent installation, but once tuned would be a good POTA or weekends only antenna. It's a terrific project to learn the art.
Excellent video! Concise, informative, and great for a Newbie! Thank you for making this!
Coax, once stripped. Push the braid towards the jacket, this will loosen and shorten it, like a Chinese finger puzzle. Then make a hole in between the braid picks next to the jacket. Slightly bend the dielectric and pull it through the hole Using a shepherd hook. The braid stays intact, pull on the braid to elongate it again, and twist it as necessary.
As with anything in HAM radio, there are many ways to get the job done.
Good job! I was licensed in 1958 :-)
That looks good and fully does what it suppose to do. Good ob on that, Sir 💯👌🙋♂
Thank you. We hope folks that have never built their own antenna are willing to try it now.
I am planning to build a dipole on the lighter side but able to handle 400 watts or so. This is a good plan. The span I have to cross doesn't have any center support so up to now I have been using end fed antennas. It's gonna be a lot longer than a 10 meter antenna though.
not a bad little quick antenna
It doesn’t take nearly as long to make as shown. videos add 10 minutes to everything.
Twist (thread) those connectors on.
You are correct....the method shown is not the proper way to install a butt splice on stranded wire.
Living and learning!
Adding; thread CW
Do NOT twist the wire. When you twist a wire and then crimp, you end up with air pockets which are oxidizing over time. When you don't twist and then crimp, you have a solid airtight piece of metal.
I guess to tune it you just keep cut the wires shorter or can you just loosen the wire clips and pull the wires closer together?
Yeah, We didn't go into the tuning portion as time was running short for us.
Good video guys.
One question where do you take the measurements from for the wire length. Once you know you need say 34ft each wire in the dipole for a 40m 1/2 wave, where do you measure from to set the length correctly. You had said in the video the wire that came through the centre insulator is counted as part of the wire length then you edited that with text I noticed.
Thanks guys
Good question! As I understand it, the radiating length of a Dipole is comprised of the horizontal lengths of wire. Those lengths from the feed point to the clamps do not count.
Make some silicone instead of electrical tape?
We should of seen you use the antenna. SEE IT WORKING and make a contact.
This was built as a prototype for a class. Leaving it untuned has come in handy for other programs at our club.
Why did you break the insulation at the end? Looks like that is where you would end the wire, instead.
Pull while you twist, and don't twist too much. You are twisting too much. 73
I have egg insulators
not a fan of HF od it right or don't do it at all. you are making them for other persons and won't use them yourself. not good
???
I totally understand what you think about this.
This video could have been 5 minutes long… so much pointless rambling and not enough antenna theory.
Are you Siskel or Ebert? I always confuse them.