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The reason why this guy is able to repair car is because he have a passion / devotion for what he do which was a requirement back in the days for Doctors, police officers among other professions nowadays people just go to college for a degree no love whatsoever for what they do
Why your ass taking your cars to chain shops? Always go to owner operated shops. They work harder for your money. Plus they have more experience in general. The people working there are usually there for a long time so they have way more experience not high turnover like at chain shops with a bunch of newbies. Chain franchise shops are all about profits and don't' get two cents about you.
Mr. Duane is an excellent master technician who demonstrates the proper methodical way to diagnose an engine performance problem. Unfortunately, in the real world a dealership technician would have been ripped apart by everyone from the customer to the service adviser to the service manager. Try explaining that replacing 3 oxygen sensors and a cam synchronizer did not completely fix the main issue, and the technician would be walking with a limp mode for a week due to the arse chewing he just received. The job of a master tech is not an easy one, as this video clearly demonstrates. Great videos Mr. Duane, the automotive industry is in short supply of true astute talent such as yourself.
Robert Perez some time when you will find other factors that will be a problem but not fix it. Happens all the time and the customer really only cares his vehicle is working and stays that way. Not replacing the cam and O2 sensors as well would have been another trip back to the shop and having the customer upset because he would have asked why the tech didn't find that the first time. Thanks for the lesson on reading the graphics
I remember very well when I was going through school for this stuff the simple acronym of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) was thrown around for process of elimination for diagnostics. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter how complex a problem can appear, the solution could be right in front of you and be as simple as the fix in this video. Excellent job!
I'm new to computer based automotive technology and actually don't know anything about it. I bought a computer based car and am lost as to how things work. This video has been the world to me. Its a great explanation of how things work and how to... correctly... troubleshoot various issues. Great job. Sorry I'm living in another country
Identifix? Wow they have been trying to get me to sign up for a few years now. I don't quite have enough big repairs or customers to support the monthly service payment yet but have needed to be able to consult a service like that a good number of times for technical info. Great video and diagnose process. Skeptics really need a video to view like this. Sometimes a vehicle can be so neglected that by the time it hits the shop, you have to correct a few issues before you can properly diagnose what the problem is. I've had an overheat condition with a head gasket replace that turned into a catalytic converter replace because the vacuum was slightly low and bogged down when revving. I've also had a spider fuel body replace job where the fuel pump had to be replaced first because the fuel pump was going bad (not to specs). Sometimes you can't even explain it to a customer ahead of time because they give you the eye. This video makes me feel proud and I don't even own a fancy scanner yet and have never been to a formal mechanic training.
Hi thanks for the video, I have a truck that started with similar symptoms and after watching your video,I checked the fuse both in the cab and engine bay. All fuse looked OK but some had fine layer of coating, kind of brownish on the contact pin so I clean the contact pins and took the vehicle for test run and problem solved. thanks
This was a great video to watch. I just got my 99 Ranger 4.0L (same truck) back together after pulling the lower intake in search of an air leak (lean codes), while at the same time replacing the cam synchro, which was shrieking horribly. I don't know how on earth you got at the cam synchro to change it, but even with the upper intake off it still looked like a hell of a challenge. Never found the air leak but, reassembled with a new gasket set, it was fixed.
Thanks for posting this Duane. Great process for a school setting but would be a terrible scenario for a real shop because someone spent a lot of money even after the head gasket repairs were made. And sometimes that's the way it goes. Now someone is buying all that labor add o2's and timing parts just to finally get to a $5 fuse. It's a fellow shop owner, this would be a tough situation. Smartest guy= the guy who gave the truck away !
Duane, I have been looking for your video, quite long time, like i waited for my Girl Friend when in was in college... finally you uploaded one. but i am happy it is worth to wait and watch ur fantastic jobs. i can swear that job like this will kill someone who is not technically and smartly inclined. Great videos, and ready to wait for ur next one..
Thanks for doing this. As a student, this was awesome, and I learned a lot. I don't have access to the resources you do, except at school, but they are closely guarded. I need access to that kind of data, the expensive scope and so on. I've got a little Craftsman code reader. Having those scanners would make my life easier. Also, it seems like a trouble-shooting method might catch some of these problems just by being thorough. Fuses turn out to be crucial in a lot of situations I have noticed. It was interesting the way you found the problem. Thanks again...!
open and closed loop are terms that describe how a computer controls something. In our case the engine. In open loop a fixed set of variable/inputs are used to produce a fixed output. Fuel values are normally fixed for a given RPM, MAP etc. In closed loop the computer looks at inputs (throttle,O2,temps,MAP,MAF,etc) and makes corrections and adjustments to the output (fuel, timing, etc) to control the engine. The switching of the O2 sensor output high/low is caused by the computer in closed loop
THANK YOU!!! A fuse fixed my F150 with exact same symptoms and codes. After a couple days stress, head scratching, and listening to these other ding dongs flap their gums on these videos this man got straight to the point and NAILED IT! Thank you again i am now a faithful subscriber!!
Any time you check a fusebox , you should be aware that you don't want to just add a fuse into any available location - as some vehicles are equipped with a fuse section which is specifically included to allow manufacturers to remove this fuse , so that battery drain is not possible during shipment (IE : overseas vehicles). Plus , there are also fuse locations which have an optional set of 3 pincers (1 position is for ON , and the other is for OFF). This is for the accessory 12V lighter socket
Your diagnostic videos are great. Thanks for all your effort. My only comment is Identifix must be expensive as they don't even seem to publish their subscription prices. So I'm guessing it's not something that's practical for the DIY guy. Obviously we can just use Google, RUclips, etc. to try and search for solutions but Identifix really made your life easy in this case.
Wish you could help me with my Ford Taurus. Its saying all kinds of codes. Its chirping its guts out. The last code was po17400 lean its suppose to be a vaccume leak. These cars aint what they use to be?
I had similar symptoms on a pre-computer car. It idled great and ran good at low speeds around 25 mph but as soon as I got to around 40 mph, it just didn't want to go any faster. I just had the engine rebuilt at a shop and returned it to them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong, so I took it to a second engine shop and they found that the first shop installed the wrong size main bearings. I had to take the first shop to small claims court to get my money back from them.
EXCELLENT Video & The ways its presented!! Moral of the story=?? Due to design of this ford- = "Dont Buy any -Ford Product"!! I'll stay GM!! Thanx again!
The shipment fuse can also be used when the vehicle is going to be stored for a long period of time , where you simply install the fuse when you are going to use the vehicle. If this fuse is missing however - the vehicle obviously won't run or do anything to do with the battery.
Welcome back Duane. I'v been looking at alot of your videos for past couple of weeks. I see you upgraded your camera. I can tell. I like how you used identfix to fill fuse 13. That is really I mean really good.
with my Ford Fusion, i was going to limp mode while driving on highway, took to local dealer, they cleaned throttle body, still went into limp mode occaisionally, took to another dealer and they installed new throttle body/with tps, knew immediately what was problem, primarily not a dirty butterfly but whole unit, now works fine, diagnostics require talent, not a quest for money, first dealer wanted to bleed me for money, second in New Smyrna, Florida, performed fix on warranty.
Always check the easy stuff first including the fuses for any blown or missing ones, if their is prints but no fuse put one in, also check the ones under the dash
BIG problem, caused by a little fuse, well missing fuse. I also own a FORD, Mustang nonetheless, I always have fun fixing problems. Thanks for the video.
Very good video and amazing fixes like this are fun and rewarding fot sure. I remember a girls who door wibdows didnt work and i checked her fuses and then had make sure she had the disable button for windows off. Instant fix
This is a real mechanic and i well appreciate his instructions. I wish everyone was like him. My 2001 Doge Caravan is doing exactly the same thing. Now, i have to find this short or fuse that controls the limp mode. Any body know where it is?
My observance of your scope settings, were O2S1and O2S2, STFT 1, STFT 2, Loop. 11 minutes into the video, after the O2S's heated up, and the PCM went into closed loop with no load on the engine. I became aware that when you snaped the throttle with the trans in park, there was a momentary spike into open loop. After replacing fuse #13 and the O2S's heated up, you performed another throttle snap and there was no momentary spike into open loop.
This was fun to watch, I love watching car shows, but they have as of late become more of a pimp my ride affair than a nuts and bolts how to show. I'm going to watch more! Thanks!
Great to see another video from you, Duane. By the way, starting at 11:30 to 12:30 it's hard to hear your voice over the engine. You could improve the video by typing in captions using the youtube editor -- no need to repost. Nice to see you posting at the teaching shop -- good lighting!
Very interesting and worthy information! I have bought a Jeep Laredo 3.7 v6 grand cherokee of 2007 with 98000 mile on the dashboard. I drive approx 15 mile per day. Two up to 3 time on month as I am driving it suddenly doesn't exceed 3000 rpm, engine check light doesn't indicate (no light at all). I just stop the car, switch off the engine, switch on again and there is no more problem rpm goes up normally. If anyone can tell me more what is this problem about I'll appreciate it. I live in Edmonton, Alberta CANADA. thanks for the video and for reading my comment!
I can't get over who removed fuse 13 and why. Also, he didn't throw parts at this vehicle. Through his inspection, he found other parts that were non-spec and problematic and replaced before further troubleshooting on the main problem can continue. Throwing parts at it would be replacing known good parts. He replaced known bad parts (tested out of spec) that definitely should have been replaced. That is not throwing parts at it. This is a legit repair in my book as bad related parts can obfuscate the source of the main problem and cause other issues down the line. Of course, looking at the datastream would have been a good way to start.
I have a 2008 town and country that doing same thing but it's not the fuse it keeps tell me the “crankshaft position sensor” which we replaced and the o2 sensor and the cam shaft position sensor .Still doing the same thing
peachees i totally agree as would most real tech but explaining that to a service writer whos never picked up a tool in his life is an entire different animal.
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's amazing sometimes , 30+ students and master mechanics and we tend to over look a fuse .... I'm thinking that the maybe the students blew another fuse and replaced it with fuse 13 either forgetting to replace or thinking was not important... Biggest mistake was writing off all those initial codes after diagnostics were preformed , maybe best to research your web connections before replacing random items ... All those newbie students and no one looked at fuses ... Oops Entertaining video thank you. ....
Wow I have a 99 Ranger and have never seen limp in mode. Thanks a lot for showing it to me. Do Chevy, Nissan, Honda, and Toyota also have limp in modes? This is a really great video.
So where would a shop start with a 1994 Toyota v6 3,0 with looping idle when warmed up ? Just passed smog with great numbers. Onto a scope first ? No check engine light on.
The same problem could have been rectified , simply by following the service manual , and doing a full check of any fuseboxes , inside the vehicle or in the engine compartment. You could also very well just follow the fusebox cover informations to determine a fuse (#13 in this case) was missing / or blown - same thing. Once you determined this , the information would have indicated it was for the transmission solenoids. A reverse method , through simple common sense of checking the vehicle.
At first I thought it was an oversight on my behalf, and that it was normal for the loop to open on a throttle snap momentarily. Until after you replaced fuse #13 and the spike into open loop went away. This made me aware that the need to shift the trans into drive and increase the RPM was an unnecessary step. I was just curious as to why you didn't mention what I'd observed. I can't afford a scope, but observing the voltage readings on your scope, an affordable scan tool will do.
Hello!! First of,all I want,to tell you the you are a #1 your videos has help me,alot along this field ... How I do know when a Isuzu rodeo 2002 it's and limp mode I been have so much,trouble with this car any suggestion it give me a 12 codes any help .please
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 and i want too instal a 4" lift kit but i found out the is not recommended on 2010 models with Traction Control system because turning into a coner the truck will go into a limp mode. The question is WHY..?? Thank you..!!
I always scan first ,check fuses .Would have thought you would have done the scan test before replacing o2 sensors n timing shaft, even though shaft was bad.
I just had a transmission shop tell me i needed a 3000 dollar transmission because one selenoid failed to work for awhile and the fluid got cooked. I think it is the TPS or speed sensor or wiring. I cleaned up all my connections and grounds and pulled 6 qts of fluid and put in some lucas and lube guard red. The shop checked nothing but just looked at the fluid to make the call. Truck still works but you get the feeling it is the throttle position sensor giving bad data. with your foot off the gas it shows me 18% throttle?
Hey there, I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana and it has the same issue. when I go onto the highway the vehicle runs smooth, but when it reaches 112 km/h (69.59 MP/h), the vehicle goes into limp mode like in the video. I cannot accelerate past that and the vehicle slows to around 100km/h, when it reaches that i regain control of acceleration and can reaccelerate but still cannot accelerate past 112km/h. i have checked and even changed fuses and i have changed everything from the: MAF Sensor, MAP Sensor, crankshaft position sensor, IAT Sensor, camshaft position sensor, both o2 sensors, and others,. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? I have wasted a lot of money and time and still haven't found the problem. Also: I do not have an engine light, so i've been fixing this with just plain guessing. Thanks.
Good day all, I have a 2008 Isuzu KB 300 D/C Turbo diesel that is stuck in limp mode. Went to GM and the say they '' Think it is the computer box '' but can't be sure till it is replaced and they want 5k for a new one. They told me that the reading its giving is at 5.5v and not at 5v like its supposed to be. which means it has too much air pressure which is causing limp mode and check engine light to stay on. What is happening is when in 1st gear the bakkie won't go over 20km/h, 2nd won't go over 40km/h, 3rd 60km/h, 4th 80km/h, 5th 100km/h. it also won't go over 2000 rev's when pushing accelerator. Any advise? Thanks
I have an 05 ford ranger 2.3l manual truck that has a misfire in cylinder 4 and is throwing a pcm fault code P0606 I've already replaced coil plugs and wires it's running really rough do u have any clue what is going on with it?
Probably from FSM's... Factory Service Manuals. Those are the best way to go, even though they're sometimes a bit pricey (ebay is a good place to find em cheap) GM has a website for licensed GM techs where it has EVERYTHING but you need a GMID to get on that site. Used to be some free stolen GMID logins on the internet but they don't work anymore.
as these old guys retire and die off it is getting hard to find young guys that have the same determination and logic and experience. some just want to make money as easy as possible. been ripped off by younger mechanics a few times. blatantly and they seem to think everyone is stupid but them. i can tell when ive been scammed and had lousy work.
Авто/Мото
The reason why this guy is able to repair car is because he have a passion / devotion for what he do which was a requirement back in the days for Doctors, police officers among other professions nowadays people just go to college for a degree no love whatsoever for what they do
Thank you for expressing that, I agree.
Boy I wish I had a quality mechanic like urself to fix my truck when I can't figure it out. Not these rookies that work at Firestone or pep boys
Why your ass taking your cars to chain shops? Always go to owner operated shops. They work harder for your money. Plus they have more experience in general. The people working there are usually there for a long time so they have way more experience not high turnover like at chain shops with a bunch of newbies. Chain franchise shops are all about profits and don't' get two cents about you.
Right!
Wess Reiley mean those latest grads of puppy mill UTI.and paid their 65 grand for sema certs and no idea
My local shops fuck people over time and time again
Mr. Duane is an excellent master technician who demonstrates the proper methodical way to diagnose an engine performance problem. Unfortunately, in the real world a dealership technician would have been ripped apart by everyone from the customer to the service adviser to the service manager. Try explaining that replacing 3 oxygen sensors and a cam synchronizer did not completely fix the main issue, and the technician would be walking with a limp mode for a week due to the arse chewing he just received. The job of a master tech is not an easy one, as this video clearly demonstrates. Great videos Mr. Duane, the automotive industry is in short supply of true astute talent such as yourself.
Robert Perez some time when you will find other factors that will be a problem but not fix it. Happens all the time and the customer really only cares his vehicle is working and stays that way. Not replacing the cam and O2 sensors as well would have been another trip back to the shop and having the customer upset because he would have asked why the tech didn't find that the first time. Thanks for the lesson on reading the graphics
Amen!
@@danielmcgilliss697 shut up! You know dam well he replaced those parts during his diagnosis. Fact is, he probably had his students do it.
I remember very well when I was going through school for this stuff the simple acronym of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) was thrown around for process of elimination for diagnostics. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter how complex a problem can appear, the solution could be right in front of you and be as simple as the fix in this video. Excellent job!
Wayne. Not only was this video full of information I just got a vehicle with them systems. Thanks
Great video on limp mode. l will keep watching for more. Thanks
I'm new to computer based automotive technology and actually don't know anything about it. I bought a computer based car and am lost as to how things work. This video has been the world to me. Its a great explanation of how things work and how to... correctly... troubleshoot various issues. Great job. Sorry I'm living in another country
Love your videos very direct an point on lookin forward to more valuable lessons
Identifix? Wow they have been trying to get me to sign up for a few years now. I don't quite have enough big repairs or customers to support the monthly service payment yet but have needed to be able to consult a service like that a good number of times for technical info. Great video and diagnose process. Skeptics really need a video to view like this. Sometimes a vehicle can be so neglected that by the time it hits the shop, you have to correct a few issues before you can properly diagnose what the problem is. I've had an overheat condition with a head gasket replace that turned into a catalytic converter replace because the vacuum was slightly low and bogged down when revving. I've also had a spider fuel body replace job where the fuel pump had to be replaced first because the fuel pump was going bad (not to specs). Sometimes you can't even explain it to a customer ahead of time because they give you the eye. This video makes me feel proud and I don't even own a fancy scanner yet and have never been to a formal mechanic training.
Thanks to this videos we learn a great deal. God bless the Ones that share wisdom to the people
Hi thanks for the video, I have a truck that started with similar symptoms and after watching your video,I checked the fuse both in the cab and engine bay. All fuse looked OK but some had fine layer of coating, kind of brownish on the contact pin so I clean the contact pins and took the vehicle for test run and problem solved. thanks
This was a great video to watch. I just got my 99 Ranger 4.0L (same truck) back together after pulling the lower intake in search of an air leak (lean codes), while at the same time replacing the cam synchro, which was shrieking horribly. I don't know how on earth you got at the cam synchro to change it, but even with the upper intake off it still looked like a hell of a challenge. Never found the air leak but, reassembled with a new gasket set, it was fixed.
Thank for your time and effort to make this video. It is very informative and useful for car probelm diagnosis. Thanks.
Best teacher we can ever have.
That is so awesome you are teaching students! Hat's off man! Much respect!
Great video, great school, great professor ... They must produce great technicians.
Thanks for posting this Duane. Great process for a school setting but would be a terrible scenario for a real shop because someone spent a lot of money even after the head gasket repairs were made. And sometimes that's the way it goes. Now someone is buying all that labor add o2's and timing parts just to finally get to a $5 fuse. It's a fellow shop owner, this would be a tough situation. Smartest guy= the guy who gave the truck away !
I find it adorable how the computer is trying to protect the engine. :D
Honestly, doing good things for their country
Duane, I have been looking for your video, quite long time, like i waited for my Girl Friend when in was in college... finally you uploaded one. but i am happy it is worth to wait and watch ur fantastic jobs. i can swear that job like this will kill someone who is not technically and smartly inclined. Great videos, and ready to wait for ur next one..
me saying thank you 1000000 times not enough for all the videos u post and the knowlege im learning from u. oo thank you
Amazing diagnostics and information provided thanks for the good job.
This was possibly one of your best videos yet. . . a missing fuse, that's the last thing I was thinking.
Thanks for doing this. As a student, this was awesome, and I learned a lot. I don't have access to the resources you do, except at school, but they are closely guarded. I need access to that kind of data, the expensive scope and so on. I've got a little Craftsman code reader. Having those scanners would make my life easier. Also, it seems like a trouble-shooting method might catch some of these problems just by being thorough. Fuses turn out to be crucial in a lot of situations I have noticed. It was interesting the way you found the problem. Thanks again...!
You are welcome, Glad it helps and thanks for commenting
open and closed loop are terms that describe how a computer controls something. In our case the engine. In open loop a fixed set of variable/inputs are used to produce a fixed output. Fuel values are normally fixed for a given RPM, MAP etc. In closed loop the computer looks at inputs (throttle,O2,temps,MAP,MAF,etc) and makes corrections and adjustments to the output (fuel, timing, etc) to control the engine. The switching of the O2 sensor output high/low is caused by the computer in closed loop
AWESOME video! I have missed you guys!
One of the students pulled that fuse after reading about the problem and wanted to see if Dwayne would be able to figure it out.
Great job people don't understand some time you have to go thru different parts to fix
Outstanding video and many thanks for sharing : )
THANK YOU!!! A fuse fixed my F150 with exact same symptoms and codes. After a couple days stress, head scratching, and listening to these other ding dongs flap their gums on these videos this man got straight to the point and NAILED IT! Thank you again i am now a faithful subscriber!!
Thanks Gary, glad it helped.
Thanks, Gary, glad it helped
Any time you check a fusebox , you should be aware that you don't want to just add a fuse into any available location - as some vehicles are equipped with a fuse section which is specifically included to allow manufacturers to remove this fuse , so that battery drain is not possible during shipment (IE : overseas vehicles). Plus , there are also fuse locations which have an optional set of 3 pincers (1 position is for ON , and the other is for OFF). This is for the accessory 12V lighter socket
Good show! Thank you for teaching me!
Your diagnostic videos are great. Thanks for all your effort. My only comment is Identifix must be expensive as they don't even seem to publish their subscription prices. So I'm guessing it's not something that's practical for the DIY guy. Obviously we can just use Google, RUclips, etc. to try and search for solutions but Identifix really made your life easy in this case.
Wow. It is now April 23, 2020, and I still found this video interesting and very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it helped
My 06 GTO sat all winter. Took it for a drive today. Ran great for 10miles. Got home and it surged and knocked.
great vid with understandable explanation ty That was the first time i saw the snapon scan tool used ,, looks great to see the use of it.
Nice one Duane! Very good video. And Happy New Year!
Thank you for taking the time to respond. It's encouragement like yours that keeps me making these videos.
Duane
I'm having a limp in mode. Along with transmission codes on my 2002 ford ranger 4.0 with a 5r44e
Wish you could help me with my Ford Taurus. Its saying all kinds of codes. Its chirping its guts out. The last code was po17400 lean its suppose to be a vaccume leak. These cars aint what they use to be?
Oh my 8 years ago. Bless you
I had similar symptoms on a pre-computer car. It idled great and ran good at low speeds around 25 mph but as soon as I got to around 40 mph, it just didn't want to go any faster. I just had the engine rebuilt at a shop and returned it to them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong, so I took it to a second engine shop and they found that the first shop installed the wrong size main bearings. I had to take the first shop to small claims court to get my money back from them.
man we miss your vids need more need more
Had the same thing happen to me today with a 2004 Ford explorer! Thanks!
Nice one Duane! Very good video.
EXCELLENT Video & The ways its presented!! Moral of the story=?? Due to design of this ford- = "Dont Buy any -Ford Product"!! I'll stay GM!! Thanx again!
Very informative video, thank you very much.
The shipment fuse can also be used when the vehicle is going to be stored for a long period of time , where you simply install the fuse when you are going to use the vehicle. If this fuse is missing however - the vehicle obviously won't run or do anything to do with the battery.
Welcome back Duane. I'v been looking at alot of your videos for past couple of weeks. I see you upgraded your camera. I can tell. I like how you used identfix to fill fuse 13. That is really I mean really good.
with my Ford Fusion, i was going to limp mode while driving on highway, took to local dealer, they cleaned throttle body, still went into limp mode occaisionally, took to another dealer and they installed new throttle body/with tps, knew immediately what was problem, primarily not a dirty butterfly but whole unit, now works fine, diagnostics require talent, not a quest for money, first dealer wanted to bleed me for money, second in New Smyrna, Florida, performed fix on warranty.
Always check the easy stuff first including the fuses for any blown or missing ones, if their is prints but no fuse put one in, also check the ones under the dash
BIG problem, caused by a little fuse, well missing fuse. I also own a FORD, Mustang nonetheless, I always have fun fixing problems. Thanks for the video.
Very good video and amazing fixes like this are fun and rewarding fot sure. I remember a girls who door wibdows didnt work and i checked her fuses and then had make sure she had the disable button for windows off. Instant fix
This is a real mechanic and i well appreciate his instructions. I wish everyone was like him. My 2001 Doge Caravan is doing exactly the same thing. Now, i have to find this short or fuse that controls the limp mode. Any body know where it is?
great lesson in troubleshooting, thanks
My observance of your scope settings, were O2S1and O2S2, STFT 1, STFT 2, Loop. 11 minutes into the video, after the O2S's heated up, and the PCM went into closed loop with no load on the engine. I became aware that when you snaped the throttle with the trans in park, there was a momentary spike into open loop. After replacing fuse #13 and the O2S's heated up, you performed another throttle snap and there was no momentary spike into open loop.
Lucky students for an awesome teacher
thanks so much sr great teacher you are helping me a lot gracias
this is great lol I wish I could donate my car and get yall to fix it......giving a ton of codes and when I fix something it pops another code back up
This was fun to watch, I love watching car shows, but they have as of late become more of a pimp my ride affair than a nuts and bolts how to show. I'm going to watch more! Thanks!
Wow !!!
How cool is this video
The Sheriff caught the bad guy 😎
Great to see another video from you, Duane. By the way, starting at 11:30 to 12:30 it's hard to hear your voice over the engine. You could improve the video by typing in captions using the youtube editor -- no need to repost.
Nice to see you posting at the teaching shop -- good lighting!
It just makes me even more awesome than ever before.
Good to see you back. Was wondering if we were gonna have to send the dogs out to find you, LOL.
this is a really informative video / thank you
Very informational
Very interesting and worthy information! I have bought a Jeep Laredo 3.7 v6 grand cherokee of 2007 with 98000 mile on the dashboard. I drive approx 15 mile per day. Two up to 3 time on month as I am driving it suddenly doesn't exceed 3000 rpm, engine check light doesn't indicate (no light at all). I just stop the car, switch off the engine, switch on again and there is no more problem rpm goes up normally. If anyone can tell me more what is this problem about I'll appreciate it. I live in Edmonton, Alberta CANADA. thanks for the video and for reading my comment!
this is some good training thank you for lip in mode but who took out the fuse?
Sweet new video!
I can't get over who removed fuse 13 and why.
Also, he didn't throw parts at this vehicle. Through his inspection, he found other parts that were non-spec and problematic and replaced before further troubleshooting on the main problem can continue.
Throwing parts at it would be replacing known good parts. He replaced known bad parts (tested out of spec) that definitely should have been replaced. That is not throwing parts at it. This is a legit repair in my book as bad related parts can obfuscate the source of the main problem and cause other issues down the line. Of course, looking at the datastream would have been a good way to start.
o
I have a 2008 town and country that doing same thing but it's not the fuse it keeps tell me the “crankshaft position sensor” which we replaced and the o2 sensor and the cam shaft position sensor .Still doing the same thing
peachees i totally agree as would most real tech but explaining that to a service writer whos never picked up a tool in his life is an entire different animal.
peachees hello
Hello
you are Awesome thanx for your time!!!!
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ver educative. thank you. regards.
Great video!
It's amazing sometimes , 30+ students and master mechanics and we tend to over look a fuse .... I'm thinking that the maybe the students blew another fuse and replaced it with fuse 13 either forgetting to replace or thinking was not important... Biggest mistake was writing off all those initial codes after diagnostics were preformed , maybe best to research your web connections before replacing random items ... All those newbie students and no one looked at fuses ... Oops Entertaining video thank you. ....
Wow I have a 99 Ranger and have never seen limp in mode. Thanks a lot for showing it to me. Do Chevy, Nissan, Honda, and Toyota also have limp in modes? This is a really great video.
So where would a shop start with a 1994 Toyota v6 3,0 with looping idle when warmed up ? Just passed smog with great numbers. Onto a scope first ? No check engine light on.
The same problem could have been rectified , simply by following the service manual , and doing a full check of any fuseboxes , inside the vehicle or in the engine compartment. You could also very well just follow the fusebox cover informations to determine a fuse (#13 in this case) was missing / or blown - same thing. Once you determined this , the information would have indicated it was for the transmission solenoids. A reverse method , through simple common sense of checking the vehicle.
Great vid! Cases like these are awesome. Was there a pid for limp in mode status?
And if the person wanted to fix the truck and would have taken to some local mechanic, they would have tried to rebuild the transmission
Probably not to many real diagnostic guys left
At first I thought it was an oversight on my behalf, and that it was normal for the loop to open on a throttle snap momentarily. Until after you replaced fuse #13 and the spike into open loop went away. This made me aware that the need to shift the trans into drive and increase the RPM was an unnecessary step. I was just curious as to why you didn't mention what I'd observed. I can't afford a scope, but observing the voltage readings on your scope, an affordable scan tool will do.
Duane, you are da man.
WTF? I wonder how much headache this would cost the mechanic. Definitely gonna try Identifix!
Nice video helps a lot.
What does "LOOP" mean? When it opens in gear and closes in neutral on the scanner
Hello!! First of,all I want,to tell you the you are a #1 your videos has help me,alot along this field ... How I do know when a Isuzu rodeo 2002 it's and limp mode I been have so much,trouble with this car any suggestion it give me a 12 codes any help .please
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 and i want too instal a 4" lift kit but i found out the is not recommended on 2010 models with Traction Control system because turning into a coner the truck will go into a limp mode. The question is WHY..?? Thank you..!!
I always scan first ,check fuses .Would have thought you would have done the scan test before replacing o2 sensors n timing shaft, even though shaft was bad.
I just had a transmission shop tell me i needed a 3000 dollar transmission because one selenoid failed to work for awhile and the fluid got cooked. I think it is the TPS or speed sensor or wiring. I cleaned up all my connections and grounds and pulled 6 qts of fluid and put in some lucas and lube guard red. The shop checked nothing but just looked at the fluid to make the call. Truck still works but you get the feeling it is the throttle position sensor giving bad data. with your foot off the gas it shows me 18% throttle?
Hey there,
I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana and it has the same issue. when I go onto the highway the vehicle runs smooth, but when it reaches 112 km/h (69.59 MP/h), the vehicle goes into limp mode like in the video. I cannot accelerate past that and the vehicle slows to around 100km/h, when it reaches that i regain control of acceleration and can reaccelerate but still cannot accelerate past 112km/h. i have checked and even changed fuses and i have changed everything from the: MAF Sensor, MAP Sensor, crankshaft position sensor, IAT Sensor, camshaft position sensor, both o2 sensors, and others,. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? I have wasted a lot of money and time and still haven't found the problem.
Also: I do not have an engine light, so i've been fixing this with just plain guessing.
Thanks.
can this happen on a 96 2.3 manual transmission ranger? My truck does the exact same thing sound like
Good day all, I have a 2008 Isuzu KB 300 D/C Turbo diesel that is stuck in limp mode. Went to GM and the say they '' Think it is the computer box '' but can't be sure till it is replaced and they want 5k for a new one. They told me that the reading its giving is at 5.5v and not at 5v like its supposed to be. which means it has too much air pressure which is causing limp mode and check engine light to stay on. What is happening is when in 1st gear the bakkie won't go over 20km/h, 2nd won't go over 40km/h, 3rd 60km/h, 4th 80km/h, 5th 100km/h. it also won't go over 2000 rev's when pushing accelerator. Any advise? Thanks
thank¨s a lot for your information. your e good
I have an 05 ford ranger 2.3l manual truck that has a misfire in cylinder 4 and is throwing a pcm fault code P0606 I've already replaced coil plugs and wires it's running really rough do u have any clue what is going on with it?
Thanks a lot mate.
Nice brand spankin new verus pro you got there.
Probably from FSM's... Factory Service Manuals. Those are the best way to go, even though they're sometimes a bit pricey (ebay is a good place to find em cheap)
GM has a website for licensed GM techs where it has EVERYTHING but you need a GMID to get on that site. Used to be some free stolen GMID logins on the internet but they don't work anymore.
thats a VERY intresting one!
is the limp mode aply for all cars and if does .. are u saying that the problem is the fuse 13 .. sure I look for it in case of it ?
Patience with young mechanics is a virtue. Lord only knows why that fuse was removed!
How do you get a 2001 Jaguar XJ8 out of limp mode?
Thanks! Super!
as these old guys retire and die off it is getting hard to find young guys that have the same determination and logic and experience. some just want to make money as easy as possible. been ripped off by younger mechanics a few times. blatantly and they seem to think everyone is stupid but them. i can tell when ive been scammed and had lousy work.
I have a 1998 ford explorer 4wheel drive Eddie Bauer it only dies when I put into drive