the MOST IMPORTANT UPGRADE for ANY automatic transmission.
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- The freshly rebuild 4l80e is now ready to go back into the turbo Silverado, and there are a few things I need to finish up before we go on our first test drive. First, it's important to check the clearances between the 4l80 torque converter and the 8.1 big block to make sure the torque converter is properly seated into the transmission pump, and second, we need to keep the trans fluid temps under control, which means a bigger transmission cooler. Today, we're installing a TruCool 40k transmission cooler behind the massive intercooler. I'm also eliminating the stock hardlines for the trans cooler, and bypassing the in-radiator trans cooler just to keep things simple. Replacing the hard lines will be some Earl's Stainless braided -6 AN hose.
DEI Fire Sleeve and Tape Kit, 5/8" ID for -6 hose. Protects hose from heat and abrasion
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Flywheel Turning Tool
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4l80e to -6 fittings for with rear return port
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-6 AN to 5/8-18 inverted flare, fits trucool 40k
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TruCool 40k transmission cooler
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Ebay Crossmember for 2000-2007 4l60 to 4l80 2wd trucks
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#turbotruck #silverado #4l80e
Chapters:
0:00 The rebuild is DONE
3:36 Installing the transmission
4:24 Converter to Flexplate spacing
6:34 Crossmember, driveshaft, and torque converter
8:35 Things that bug me
11:45 Mounting the Trans Cooler
16:42 AN Line conversion Parts
20:50 Building AN trans cooler lines
24:00 Test Fire 
Авто/Мото
Guys, let me know what you think about the in-radiator trans cooler: did you leave it out or did you keep it, and whats your trans temp like?
In Utah you're supposed to hook it up in series with the other cooler to help maintain the temperature in the cold...
i took it out. trans runs at about 150. 2002 CCLB. 10” lift, 22x14’e 35x15.50 tires. 4.88 gears. cam, yank 3200 stall. truck scales at 8000lbs. leave the radiator out for sure
Use both coolers it's more effecient.
When i did my 4l80e swap and 40k cooler. I bypassed the factory cooler. But that being said im in Central Texas we don't get very cold. I never get above 180-200 with a load in 100+ heat index
@@ImpalaSSRulz21 like he said, all it does is heat the fluid if you have a large trans cooler. 4l80’s come up to temp very quickly with the tall first gear
I left it running through the radiator trans cooler on my 4L60E on a 2004 suburban with the same bigger aftermarket trans cooler added and during the summers here in AZ my temps reach 150 to 160 and during the winter it is about 130 to 140, I also use Amsoil transmission fluid, also a shift kit to improve line pressure and firm shift points to help prolong my 4L60E as long as possible.
You are absolutely awesome. I am getting ready to 80 swap my 1500 and have been researching to source everything. I am going to buy what you have listed in the description. It will suit my needs. Thank you so much for all the info and making well produced videos.
I love how you went from all the fanciness of Trucks to doing stuff in your garage like us plebs. And making it work
thanks! though I do miss the air conditioned shop
Man what a project and I think that your transmission rebuild is going to be just fine! That bigger transmission cooler should do the trick!! :)
Your candor in these videos is inspirational and exceptional. Thanks for the great content 👍
Hey thanks!
The nut insert tool is a great tool to have, used one to re attach my front sway bar on my 95 2500 and it's held up quite well
You are truly a professional builder. The quality is excellent. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much!
Good job my friend, now i'm going to start my project thanks to you. Later i'm going to send you some pictures of the engine. Keep going and GOD BLESS YOU ALL.
LT, another great video! Somewhat related, heat is the major shortcoming of the th700/60e variants. Companies sell all of the “horsepower” upgrades with stronger components but they are still very easy to overheat and destroy. Cooling, cooling, cooling. I also completely agree with standalone cooling for any cooling circuit in warmer climates as the most effective way to keep temps down.
LT, that's a pretty sexy torque converter. Really liking the content so keep it coming.
Nicely done... Can't wait to see it drive...
Great job. Will get one of these for my 04 with Allison 8.1 combo.
I swear by these trans coolers! I had nothing but issues trying to keep my cummins trans cool. Installed one of these and never looked back! Sits at 150-180 towing
I dig your content and love your fresh approach to modding trucks! Keep it up and ignore the Truck Karens. \m/
Coming along great!
I was like, man this guy looks familiar. Glad you have your own RUclips channel. Awesome stuff
Hey, thanks!
great video LT, i got rid of my wimpy factory cooler for a hayden unit trans never ran hot ..the in radiator line my thinking is if you live down south like me (east texas ) you probably wont miss it up north i can see some need for it...its fine to roll without it...just fixed my o-ring on oil pick up tube on my 05 sierra L33 Z71..your projects are cool i like you fix things the way we would do at home ..thank you LT for all your hard work
I ran a class 7 transmission cooler on my 03 Nissan Sentra with a 1.8l
Welcome to the wonderful world of Auto Trans building!!!!!!! You did good, Kid!!!!
let's see how it drives first lol
I kept the stock in-radiator trans cooler in line with the external cooler. I plan to change the configuration this winter to include a couple three way valves to allow me to change the setup depending on use and weather. I have a 90 Cherokee on 33s that I use for wheeling. It takes a long time for the trans to warm up to 150 degrees during normal driving. In the winter it barely cracks 125 degrees. While wheeling hard it hits 180 degrees and hangs there until the jeep starts to overheat (it's normal on the XJs to get warm during heavy use).
My plan is to use the in-radiator cooler and bypass the external cooler for normal driving. For wheeling I will use the external cooler and bypass the in-radiator cooler.
i have the same trucool trans cooler on my 7.3 and i love it
Sounds like you got the crud! Feel better soon!
Yup, all kinds of congestion. Sucks.
I went to school for an A&P and how you are doing the AN line is how we were taught. If it’s good enough for aircraft mechanics it’s probably good enough for a hot rod.
I also did a 40k on my 4l80 swapped gmt800 Yukon. I did custom AN lines as well. I never had cold weather issues.
Glad to hear that on the cold weather
LT I highly recommend a T-Stat on any rig running in a places with wide Temp swings. I run a Improved Racing High-Flow Engine and Transmission Oil Cooler Thermostat, as it has Female -10 O-ring ports and you can set temp of operation from 145*F to 215*F. Uses the bypass method of metering so if the bypass port fails/clogs oil always goes to cooler (never leaving you with no flow or cooler).
I have a built 2010 double cab 4x4 5.7l Tundra, and Toyota is STUPID with their trans temps and cooler setup. I had the truck about 3 weeks and took it to the track to set base lines and boy was I in for a rude awaking. After the first pull in the 1/4 I looked at the logs and see torque converter temps in the 220, did my second pass and they got up to 230. I did the last pass at 245 in the torque converter and said that wont do. The pan was at 230, took almost 2.5 hours on the 4 hour drive home to get the heat out of the trans and back down to normal "safe levels" around 180 at highway speeds in the pan torque converter was around 197'ish. Come to find out the T-stat on the MAX tow package spec Tundras doesn't even open till 210 and become fully open till 250. The idiot light is set for 320 IN THE PAN. So from cold to 210 the engine coolant is the only thing cool the trans fluids and that's at 190-195ish on a OEM T-stat (the T-Delta is around 5*F). Then on a 2010 and up they made the Trans cooler part of the condenser coil, and shoved it all the way up on top putting about half of it blocked from direct air flow by the upper core support.
So I got this exact unit and the T-stat from Improved Racing set at 145*F, as I live on the South Texas Coast and we see some nice 105*F days with 90% humidity. The worst I have seen is 190*F in the torque convert with 12k lbs behind me pulling over the harbor bridge. Normal is around 150-155*F which is right were I like my trans temps. Running below 130*F is bad as it's much hard on the pump as the fluid is very thick, this means it's much more work to pump it around and can hurt the vanes in the pump.
Love the build!!
P.S. I also got rid of the engine coolant circuit to trans cooler circuit as it's more heat into the cooling system for the trans and the trans is a pretty good heat pump all on its own haha.
So I did the same with one from Glenn auto parts. It came with all the lines and everything. I have a 06 denali AWD. My temps before were 200 to 225 constantly. With this and bypassing the radiator it runs about 150to 175. In stop and go it has reached 200 but its keeps it alot cooler.
Nice to see progress going well.
I like that cooler if I bulid up my caprice ppv that may be a choice in the future .
Be safe (: 😀
I did mine with the scrivet tool from harbour freight and it worked like a charm! Just make sure you get the small pack of bolts to go with it as the tool comes with the threaded inserts but does NOT come with ANY bolts.
I'll have to check em out, theres an HF right down the road
Great video!
Good job, bro 🤙
I can’t wait until it’s all done LT!!!
I need a new cluster. Jealous of yours. Feels good to get the trans back in the way you wanted.
Another great video, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Truck sounds great. Looking forward to reliable burnouts hammering gears. East coast says hello
I installed the Trucool 40k cooler about 3 years ago in my 01 Silverado 4.8 RCSB 2wd and have noticed a huge difference. I have the lines run thru the radiator first then to the cooler and it used to run consistently about 200 degrees or so and now it barely passes 150 degrees !!!! That's even on the hottest summer days in the Northeast sitting in traffic with the AC cranked and monitored thru a factory gauge in a Escalade cluster in place of my Chevy one. Enjoy the temperature drop !!
Good to know. I'm looking to put 1 on my 08 silverado 2wd 5.3l
Brave man doing a DIY transmission rebuild. Watching you tackle that 4L80 the past few videos is making me want to rebuild my AW4. It'll either be a lucky success or potential content for the precision transmission channel 😂
I'm not familiar with the AW4 but there is a lot of info out there for these GM trans I recently did my 4l60e myself and it works good
@@james10739 Yeah I've been reading the FSM on the AW4 an hour or two each day. I pulled one off a 2000 XJ in the scrap yard got the transfer case with it. Between the FSM and RUclips I just might be able to rebuild it for Christmas🤞🏽
I run the trucool 40k on both mine and my wife's cherokees with the aw4 and it brings the Temps way down. My aw4 has a fresh rebuild and I did the transgo reprogramming kit. It shifts super nice, I was pretty conservative with drilling the hole sizes the instructions will have different options you can do, definitely get the transgo 340-hd2 kit it's well worth it.
It's hard to find someone to rebuild an aw4 properly. They last a very long time so not a lot of people are familiar with them. If you keep clean fluid and the temperatures down the aw4 lasts a long time and takes a beating only failure I've ever had was the torque converter sent shrapnel through the tranny. They run hot as hell in stock form even if you have the optional factory auxiliary cooler. Stick with all oem sensors and solenoids your used oem ones will be better than new aftermarket you can bench test everything.
@@forreststrong797 Yikes!! You rebuilt it yourself? Idk if I've got the stones to be drilling the valve body instructions or not 😂. I might have to make another trip to the bone yard to scoop up a few extras
@@JohnSmith-ot9sc I have a friend who owns a local transmission shop and he helped me do the rebuild he did most of the work. It really is quite easy to install the transgo reprogramming kit if your in there I'd do it. Like I said I went on the conservative side of things and it shifts nice and firm but is very pleasant to drive. I've ridden in a cherokee that had the reprogramming kit but he drilled to the hotrod specs and then some and it shifted extremely firm, the tires would chirp.
If you can't find a competint builder I think your best bet is to go used if you need a transmission and don't want to tackle it yourself. It takes skill to properly rebuild an aw4 I've heard horror stories from my friend about people having a shop rebuild the same transmission 2 or 3 times before they bring it to him. They are so durable that if you get a good one and take care of it they last forever. Mine looked great after 280k in fact it looked incredible the only problem was the bushings were trashed from the bad torque converter. My wife's has well over 300k and works flawlessly I replaced her torque converter around 275k. Japanese transmissions can last a very long time it's a Toyota transmission, asin-warner. In a Toyota it's called the a340 I believe and it was used in the Toyota supra and I believe some trucks.
Hi LT,
At some point, I am going to replace my trans cooler and the old, rusty lines. I am planning to bypass the radiator like you did when I do this job. If you run into any problems or find you need to reprogram the cluster EPROM when you swap clusters, PM me and I will be glad to help. I've done a few of them already that way. Hopefully the tool you spoke about will make it easy and you can do it through the OBD2 port. Thanks for the video!
-mike
I'm running the same cooler on my 01 Yukon XL 2500, 6.0L with the 4L80E. Mine is set up just like shown here, except I used the kits from Glenns Auto Performance to make this an almost 100% bolt-in effort. This was a total "while you're in there" that got a little overboard while I was replacing both the radiator and a cooler line due to minor leaks. The truck isn't used to haul anything appreciable and is mostly my DD and kid hauler.
With this setup, per the gauge I can only ever barely reach 150F, and that's only after a lot of stop n go on a hot day. Before, stock, it would hover closer to 200F.
The one downside that I've personally experienced is that, on a really cold day (30s, but that's damn near emergency conditions in San Diego), the truck struggled to lock the TC on the freeway. Internet says TC won't lock up until fluid temp reaches 70ish(?), so maybe bypassing the radiator isn't the greatest thing if you live in colder climates.
Otherwise, this setup has been awesome for me. Good to know that, if I ever do really put the truck to work, trans temps won't be an issue.
great feedback on the colder weather operation. I can see how a thermostat or the rad cooler would be beneficial in the winter time, but luckily I don't drive the truck that much in the winter time.
LT that tape that you are using fir the Fire Sleeving comes from Aviation it is a self Vulcanizing Tape also know to us in Aviation as F4 tape. It was designed and used for the McDonnel F4 Phantom and used in Wiring Avionic systems.
Wow I literally just watched lsxmatts cooler vid. Nice.
Hope you realize that you are Dragging us down the rabbit hole with you. Unfortunately already loyal addicted gear head.🤗😁
excellent!!
Hell yeah dude!!
Sinus congestion sucks doesn't it lol. Hopefully you're feeling better soon.
I installed the same trans cooler on my 04 Silverado SS with a fti 3k stall and I bypassed the radiator cooler no use in using it with that badass trans cooler.
Good to hear!
We are about to fit the 8.1 in to my 1953 ford bread van
🙌Mechanical Poetry at it's best.🙌
I'm glad to see this mod, I plan to run a cooler with my 4l80e behind a turbo lq4. I'm rebuilding the trans myself. Any recs for internal upgrades on the 4l80e at 1000hp?
I have one of these on my Grand Cherokee, model LPD4739 with the cold weather bypass. I have a trans temp gauge, before the cooler I would see above 230 in the dunes, since adding the cooler I have not seen the trans temp above 180. I don't run it through the radiator first not wanting to put too much heat into the engine coolant, I need all the help I can get keeping the engine cool.
Who's the new guy doing your voice-overs?! Hahaha, get well soon buddy
I was thinking the same thing .
Yeah… heck of a cold I’ll tall ya.
@@LawrenceTolman Sounds like it . I thought i had switched to a different video . Hope you get better soon .
You shouldn't have any issues keeping the trans cool. I used one of those inline with the rad on my old 3/4 ton Suburban. Even pulling my 7k camper in the Utah mountains it never went over 180. Good thing you aren't using it in the winter though! I had to cover mine just to get some heat in it. Wish I could have kept it when I got a Duramax but the ports are way too small.
glad to know it won't get too hot!
You can get that tape from a lot of places under various names SOS tape is what my local store carries.
Note
Keep it clean , wash your hands and keep all dust and oil away from it when you apply it or it will unravel.
If the end does start to peel back carefully cut it off with a sharp blade to prevent it peeling further.
good tip on where to buy the tape! Thanks!
I am planning on doing this mod next to my truck! All ready had a stock trans cooler bust and communicated water to my trans luckily i caught it on time before any damage was made! One question i was thinking of installing the trans cooler the other way around with the in/out on top, it came to mind that installing it like you did will create an air pocket on top of the cooler what do you think?
I think you just need a longer dipstick. Another great video
You're right!
Great video! I was always told the cooler lines are for hot temps, mainly for Idling for long periods of time while its really hot outside. Also, what fitting/adapters did you use for the trans cooler return and send ports? NPT to -6 AN Adapter?
That fire tape sounds like the F4 tape used for building aircraft......I need to install a 40k in my Burb.
Yah, one step closer to more treadless truckin'!!!
lol... I don't have much tread left on the backs until they're totally bald. one or two more good burnouts probably
Same cooler bypassed radiator. Towing flatbed car trailer wt 57 Chevy truck on it Outside air temp 89. Trans temp 150
1500 Silverado 5.3 4L60e
Glad I made the right decision
Don't blame you for leaving that thermostat out, I don't see it as a plus. If that fails you're in trouble.
Just curious why you did not go with a deeper transmission pan? Is the truck too low? Budget? Or are you planning to in the future? It just seems after all that, maybe an aftermarket transmission pan would make sense. Love the videos by the way. Keep up the awesome work!
no real reason, I guess I didn't really see the need for one. There should be plenty of room tho...
@@LawrenceTolman I see. I just figured extra capacity wouldn't be a bad thing. Maybe more fluid to assist with cooling. As well as, some aluminum pans have cooling fins. Anyway like I said keep up the awesome videos. Look forward to them. 👍
My wife's suburban has a 6l80e and it runs at like 150 to 170. I'd like it to run a little cooler... it's got the tow package/cooler.
thats not too bad for temp, I think 135-150 is what I want to shoot for.
Ah heck, I just installed this same cooler on my 2001 Tahoe. I built up a LQ9 and 4L60E. From what I understand ideal temp for Dextron VI is 175F and the 4L60E is designed to operate around that temperature. I'm now getting 40F above ambient with the trucool cooler. I was seeing trans temps of 80F which seems like that's not warm enough... What temps are you seeing? I ordered the thermostat, but haven't installed it yet. I never really thought much about it getting plugged and burning up the trans.
LT ,ISNST THE PLATE STYLE COOLER SUPOSSED TO BE MOUNTED THE OTHER WAY ,THINK ABOUT THE FLUID GOING SIDEWAYS BEFORE IT GOES UP.WILL IT FILL AND FLOW AT THE TOP?
the baby trans cooler was cute lol
Crazy how small it is by comparison
Can you please add part number for the hose nut u used .
Damn, forgot the dipstick...sounds exactly like something I may or may not have done.
yup, I've done it once or twice lol
no washer or o ring needed on cooler fittings its self?
Nice job
But i disagree with bypassing the radiator cooler why ? Very simple GM transmissions runs really hot like HOT by going through the radiator first what you are doing is helping the transmission fluid reduce the temperature and when that fluid goes through the external cooler then that cooler finish the process it's like the M62tu bmw V8 engine the alternator cools down because it's seating inside a housing and coolant it's cooling that alternator
But that's my opinion that doesn't have to do anything with me telling you the you did a good job there Congratulations
can you tell me what slip yoke you used on the factory driveshaft please
I am going to add a cooler to my 2002 Tahoe and suburban. I know 2 people that the radiator went bad and filled the transmission full
Of water. Did you run new lines all the way back to the transmission or just connect where they plugged into the radiator?
You should mount the cooler with the fittings at the top. It forces the fluid to fill all the passages in the cooler before exiting back to the trans instead of being able to cross over through the bottom passages and going back to the trans. The cooler will be more efficient that way.
that's a good point, but just about every stock cooler I've seen are mounted with the fittings pointed down. I know there are mixed opinions on this
I bypassed the in-radiator cooler. been through 107 degrees in phoenix and at cruise barely saw 150, been down to 40 degree weather and it barely creeps above 100. to do it properly youd want a thermostatic switch that bypasses the cooler when the oil is too cool. i have a 2800-3200 stall, stalls about 2900 in my truck
also whynot buy the cross member from tyler scruggs!? he literally made all of our conversion pieces. they are unpainted but they come with pass through bolts
for those with ole basic truck with 4l60e check out glenns performance
Laurance LT Tolman you can make tha bracket for sale ??
So do you think you can bypass the radiator with a daily driver
why put aux. cooler in "middle" of the radiator/condenser ? why not center top or bottom? one not left or right off rad/cond? any input?
i would leave out the thermal regulator if you installed it, the link you posted from amazons kit included it, and not bypass the radiator cooler. Hot temps destroy clutches, the colder the better!
lol i skipped through the video then read some comments below. good move on leaving the regulator out. i had an 03 SSS awd which has the 4l65e, after the 9th warrantied rebuild in 1 and a half years and less than 12k miles i ordered a reman from gm parts direct and never had another problem. from my troubles i learned a good bit about transmissions. the regulators i found in the tru cool kits i wanna say opened between 170-180? My SSS with the 40k going through the radiator while towing just under 10k lbs. never got above 160 on a hot summer day in the 90s. without towing never above 125. it had a stock stall speed converter, although i had ordered a circle d towing unit 2800 stall but they were back ordered on materials to build them when i had purchased it and i needed my truck back on the road and got a refunded instead. God bless!
Do you have the "Rona?
i need a 4l80 torque converter for my wife's 2010 gmc denali 6.2 ..... A lifter broke on it so i did the d.o.d a.f.m vvt delete all texas speed parts ..i talked to them got all parts but did a upgrade on cam to next cam up .. i got a part # 25-tsp225236-114-3b . now got it tuned from pcm of n.c runs great ...buttt !! not at idle .. i think i need a little stall ..((((( what say you ?????? ))))))
Don’t know the specs on that cam, but any truck (especially if it’s cammed) can benefit from a higher stall converter
@@LawrenceTolman duration .050 is 225 236
lobe lift in.370 ex .362
valve lift @1.7 in .629 ex .615
lobe swep 114
intake c line 109
texas speed said no need for stall ....
what brand and what stall should use ??
Hey LT, is there anyway we can have access to the resources you used to gather information on rebuilding and reinstall the transmission. Trying to tackle my transmission soon.
Check out ATSG for the 4L60-80
@@benfletcher7608 bet, appreciate it
most of the info I found was just postings on forums and from a few good facebook groups. Never even bought a manual, but I should've
What an - hoses size fit on 4l80 ?
I know you don’t have an air compressor, but you would be surprised of how much trash gets in those hoses after you cut them. I always blow out my hoses after making them.
how much hose need for this job?
Am I the only one who thought, "what a dipstick?" Said with love and humor.. cause that's exactly what I would have called myself...
Change that oem radiator to all aluminum radiator. It’s gonna crack the plastic end tanks for sure.
that would be a good upgrade for sure
I have yet to have an automatic rebuild completed successfully.
You have way more space between the condenser and A frame then I do on my 6.0 2500HD
That’s because there is no condenser anymore lol
Also its worth it adding an oil cooler.on a turbo car dude
you are correct there
Maybe I missed it but, are you using the radiator cooler along with the true cool?
Bypassing the radiator completely
Your cushion clamps are called ADEL clamps.
good to know!
For me is best cooler, the heat is the enemy of the transmission.
thats right, transmissions hate heat. the cooler the better
What benefits do you get from running this cooler if you were installing it to a stock engine and transmission
you'd still get the same benefits of lower operating temperature.
Hello. How much hose did you need to complete your two run's from your cooler. I'm on Summit ordering thing's to do this swap. Do i need to 10' pcs. Or a 20' and a 10'. Can you give me a rough estimate? Thanks
I think in total it was nearly 13 feet, but the piece I bought was a 25 footer and I've got maybe 10-12 left?
@@LawrenceTolman I just went ahead and bought the 20' and the 10' piece. Hopefully the 10' will cover the short run.
Do you have a link for the crossmember?
www.ebay.com/itm/353514300555
👍🏻👨🔧✔💯
Shouldn't the converter pull out be between .125 and .187
Circle D said 1/8" is what they shoot for when I called em up
This had me scratching my head too. Seems tight to me. I have always run between 1/8 and 3/16 but you are between 1/16 and 1/8. I’m sure it will be fine. Keep up the good work!
go no go is better. a drill bit will make a cheap go no go.
I never understand rebuilding a transmission and not at least pressue washing the outside of the case
I guess its whats inside that counts... and this one will be apart again in the near future for stronger shafts likely...
@@LawrenceTolman I always thought cleanliness was the number one rule in rebuilding a transmission
LOKAR DIPSTICK!!!
Thanks for admitting your mistakes!! Lol