Super great info! Had a 6" Python in SS in the 80's and I wish I still had it. Low maintenance and crazy accurate, but could not get over how often I broke firing pins so I sold it :-( I look forward to having my dream Colt Combat Commander full custom and if I don't blue it I will PVD it. Thanks for your work and hope to train with you someday! God Bless!
Awesome video Mr. Yam, thank you so much for sharing the information. Quick question about PVD, how do you go about re-fitting the parts without wearing the PVD coating off? Often times can you sand it so lightly that the finish isn't completely removed? Thank you sir!
Ream or sand the surface until the parts fit again, usually means the finish is removed entirely on those spots. In the case of these 1911s, it was mostly pin holes.
GREAT VIDEO. obviously you are very well versed in these materials, finishes and weaponry that being said i have a AMT LONGSLIDE that i love, is there anything i can do to make the slide to frame fitment smoother????
You could have a gunsmith lap the slide/frame/barrel fit, but the reality is that the stainless alloys back in the 80's didn't really lend themselves to smoothness.
Your opinion on my 2000 SA Loaded with my additions. Colt ambi saftey, Fusion slide stop (.200" pin), re linked Storm Lake semi fit drop in barrel using 18.5lb Wolff variable recoil spring. .040" slide engagement.
Sucks about Robar closing...I was just getting ready to send them a slide & internals for their NP3+ finish. NiB finishes just don't have the same benefits & aren't the same.
Hi, just to throw this out there: The British Museum developed a preservation wax that is completely neutral to the environment. This means it is stable, and the wax as is cannot break down any smaller than the Silica it is made with. If you apply Renaissance Wax to a blued 1911, it will not rust or degenerate in any fashion. The silica is invisible, (molecular scale) and is so small it will enter into the small crevasses and pits that exist on the surface yet is so small we cannot see it. Any surface tha Silica impregnates in to is impervious to rust. This is better than anything else available for storage in a normal temperature range environment. If you apply it on any surface you can reach, the Silica will protect it. After applying you can buff it down with a rag and it will leave a small pleasant sheen, or don’t polish and it will have a matte finish. Either way it will stabilize anything it covers and you can literally store your firearm away for years. (It works best on parkerized Firearms)Note- if you use it, put oil on it, shoot, etc. you will have to clean then reapply. ---->Edit: Renaissance Wax can be had from Amazon for about 16 dollars plus tax, shipping. Well worth it. I even put it over duracoated Firearms for an added micro-layer.
He recommended stainless. I agree but I recently got a stainless sig team match elite 1911 9mm I shot it in rain and the next day allll slide serrations and major rust were on mag catch and mainspring housing not even my parkerized ria gi 1911 9mm I shot the same day had any rust 3 days later when I got to cleaning it. I guess not all stainless is the same or maybe I got a lemon. Never say it before.
Stainless steel in guns compromises the corrosion resistance a lot to be strong enough. It is more resistant than others, but not going to be as resistant as say stainless kitchen appliances.
A question if you have time ( and maybe aquire a student ) recently purchased a stainless series 70 Colt I've been running Anhydrous graphite on the rails. I've read recently that this lubricant can cause erosion of non ferrous metals like aluminum do you believe permeating the stainless wear areas of this pistol will be bad for it in the long term ? I runs well now but required ramp work and some slide stop polishing to achieve reliable function.
I have a 1911, Series 80, MKIV in stainless, manufactured in 1995. I put an idiot mark on it that runs from inside trigger well up to where the slide stop sets into the frame. Basically, a typical but long idiot mark you see a lot. The trigger well is rough and the frame is "shiney" stainless. Is there a way to repair both surfaces of the idiot mark?
Polish out the mark, then bead blast the frame rounds, and polish the flats back to original finish grit. It'll be quite expensive to have someone do it as it's very time consuming.
It may be considered “beneath you” however Duracoat has it’s epoxy finishes that stand the test of time, as well as Dura-Dize, an anodizing DIY process, request a catalog. I have been pleased with their products.
pjoffrion I am retired now, but just to keep my hands busy I like to take something like a Rock Island G.I. Model and re make them into something more like a Gold Cup. I call them Service Grade however I typically give them about a 4 pound trigger pull. I literally ditch everything except slide and frame and start over with hardened steel match parts that need hand fitting. I have been playing around with Duracoat on the finished product. I just did one in a Bronze, before that O.D. Green, and I happen to like their Polished Blue-Black, and Polished Blue. Like I said, I am no longer on the clock, so I do what I want, and I have been happy with the results. It is very good anti-corrosion treatment, being an epoxy finish using a catalyst.
The mil spec format Defender seems a really really long way to go to get to a setup where you can use it for work. The Range Officer Operator is my top pick for feature set, price, and build quality.
Interesting in concept but Ti is hard to machine and tends to gall, so it has been less than successful for frames/slides. Also it is not as light as aluminum so all that effort is for a few ounces.
The original SW1911 models with the grip safety activated firing pin safety and the narrow extractor don't work well - the FP safety has timing issues and the extractor has a very high failure rate. The E Series eliminated the FP safety for a Ti FP, but the extractor still had some issues. It's very hard to pull off an external extractor on a 1911.
Can anyone recommend someone that does good reblueing or parkerizing? I have a WW2 Army issue 1911 that was mistakenly chromed years ago, and I want it taken back to original.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Id be interested to hear what your opinion is regarding nickel plating as a 1911 finish. Just subscribed!
Dan Wesson Specialist. Mine is stainless and it has a rail. Great gun. Never had an issue with it.
Great video. I've been wondering about these different finishes. Really interesting, thank you.
Great video once again! Please keep them coming.
Great stuff! Thank you for your knowledge!
This is some awesome content
Super great info! Had a 6" Python in SS in the 80's and I wish I still had it. Low maintenance and crazy accurate, but could not get over how often I broke firing pins so I sold it :-( I look forward to having my dream Colt Combat Commander full custom and if I don't blue it I will PVD it. Thanks for your work and hope to train with you someday! God Bless!
I love the Tisas it has 2 coatings parkerized and sahra? coating and its just tight enough
Oh that Pachmyr Special. I love hard chrome.
The Cerakoted finish in my new SA Ronin Operator 4.25 SUXs.
Thank you for your insight! Great channel!
Awesome Video.
Shooting It with the Sarge
Very informative.
Awesome video Mr. Yam, thank you so much for sharing the information.
Quick question about PVD, how do you go about re-fitting the parts without wearing the PVD coating off? Often times can you sand it so lightly that the finish isn't completely removed?
Thank you sir!
Ream or sand the surface until the parts fit again, usually means the finish is removed entirely on those spots. In the case of these 1911s, it was mostly pin holes.
@@108Performance Awesome, thanks again for the video and the response!
Good video.
Good info. Thanks!
Wealth of knowledge
Thanks for sharing ! DVC
Very informative, I like you style put the information out with BS. Do you have an opinion on Stainless Ruger 1911s?
We saw a couple in our old 10-8 1911 classes, and they were made well and worked. They seemed to be a great value.
My wife has a Ruger made Combat Commander in Stainless. We re built it into a total beast, it is more Evolution Gun Works than Ruger at this point.
GREAT VIDEO. obviously you are very well versed in these materials, finishes and weaponry that being said i have a AMT LONGSLIDE that i love, is there anything i can do to make the slide to frame fitment smoother????
You could have a gunsmith lap the slide/frame/barrel fit, but the reality is that the stainless alloys back in the 80's didn't really lend themselves to smoothness.
Nothing like an intro so loud it deafens your audience for the rest of the video
Great video! What would you recommend for a high gloss black finish? Something like bluing that would hold up better but still glossy like an old S&W.
Your opinion on my 2000 SA Loaded with my additions. Colt ambi saftey, Fusion slide stop (.200" pin), re linked Storm Lake semi fit drop in barrel using 18.5lb Wolff variable recoil spring. .040" slide engagement.
Sucks about Robar closing...I was just getting ready to send them a slide & internals for their NP3+ finish. NiB finishes just don't have the same benefits & aren't the same.
Hi, just to throw this out there:
The British Museum developed a preservation wax that is completely neutral to the environment. This means it is stable, and the wax as is cannot break down any smaller than the Silica it is made with. If you apply Renaissance Wax to a blued 1911, it will not rust or degenerate in any fashion. The silica is invisible, (molecular scale) and is so small it will enter into the small crevasses and pits that exist on the surface yet is so small we cannot see it. Any surface tha Silica impregnates in to is impervious to rust. This is better than anything else available for storage in a normal temperature range environment. If you apply it on any surface you can reach, the Silica will protect it. After applying you can buff it down with a rag and it will leave a small pleasant sheen, or don’t polish and it will have a matte finish. Either way it will stabilize anything it covers and you can literally store your firearm away for years. (It works best on parkerized Firearms)Note- if you use it, put oil on it, shoot, etc. you will have to clean then reapply.
---->Edit: Renaissance Wax can be had from Amazon for about 16 dollars plus tax, shipping. Well worth it. I even put it over duracoated Firearms for an added micro-layer.
Enjoyed the video. Great information, but the volume was too low for my old ears.
He recommended stainless. I agree but I recently got a stainless sig team match elite 1911 9mm I shot it in rain and the next day allll slide serrations and major rust were on mag catch and mainspring housing not even my parkerized ria gi 1911 9mm I shot the same day had any rust 3 days later when I got to cleaning it. I guess not all stainless is the same or maybe I got a lemon. Never say it before.
Light coat of oil during storage and use. Clean it the same day after range use, especially that it was exposed to rain.
Stainless steel in guns compromises the corrosion resistance a lot to be strong enough. It is more resistant than others, but not going to be as resistant as say stainless kitchen appliances.
Passivating stainless steel? Never tried it on gun parts, but I did it to industrial parts 15 years ago.
Considering Ion Bond for one of my 1911s. Does that require total parts breakdown?
Yes, it's a PVD finish.
A question if you have time ( and maybe aquire a student ) recently purchased a stainless series 70 Colt I've been running Anhydrous graphite on the rails. I've read recently that this lubricant can cause erosion of non ferrous metals like aluminum do you believe permeating the stainless wear areas of this pistol will be bad for it in the long term ? I runs well now but required ramp work and some slide stop polishing to achieve reliable function.
Pinslayer 45 AARP Just use gun oil and avoid any potential issues
Im shocked you didnt recommend DLC, you used to work for Staccatto; and I thought that was a top
Finish for all steel?
DLC is a brand name for PVD, which is covered here.
@@108Performance oh ok, I did not know that?
CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEBODY REAL GOOD TO REFINISH WITH PVD A 1911?
I have a 1911, Series 80, MKIV in stainless, manufactured in 1995. I put an idiot mark on it that runs from inside trigger well up to where the slide stop sets into the frame. Basically, a typical but long idiot mark you see a lot. The trigger well is rough and the frame is "shiney" stainless. Is there a way to repair both surfaces of the idiot mark?
Polish out the mark, then bead blast the frame rounds, and polish the flats back to original finish grit. It'll be quite expensive to have someone do it as it's very time consuming.
What would you recommend for aluminum frames? Re- anodizing, pvd, hard chrome? Thanks for the video. I really like that two tone.
You can just PVD the whole gun.
It may be considered “beneath you” however Duracoat has it’s epoxy finishes that stand the test of time, as well as Dura-Dize, an anodizing DIY process, request a catalog. I have been pleased with their products.
Thanks. I’ll look into it.
pjoffrion I am retired now, but just to keep my hands busy I like to take something like a Rock Island G.I. Model and re make them into something more like a Gold Cup. I call them Service Grade however I typically give them about a 4 pound trigger pull. I literally ditch everything except slide and frame and start over with hardened steel match parts that need hand fitting. I have been playing around with Duracoat on the finished product. I just did one in a Bronze, before that O.D. Green, and I happen to like their Polished Blue-Black, and Polished Blue. Like I said, I am no longer on the clock, so I do what I want, and I have been happy with the results. It is very good anti-corrosion treatment, being an epoxy finish using a catalyst.
@@ScottAT sounds like a rewarding project!
How do you feel about the SA Defender Series 1911? Wanted to turn it into a carry/duty gun. Worth it or don't waste my time?
The mil spec format Defender seems a really really long way to go to get to a setup where you can use it for work. The Range Officer Operator is my top pick for feature set, price, and build quality.
I’m in the Tampa Area. Who do you recommend in south Florida?
Not sure which of the many finishes you're asking about (since most vendors only do 1-2 of any), but none in S FL.
Electrolytic is the word your looking for
Colt Double Eagle MK 2 Stainless? Good finish?
It's stainless....refer to the sections of the video here for great detail on it.
I’m dying of laughter from all the viewers needing validation on their gun of choice by asking, “What are your thoughts on my X, Y, and Z.”
Or they’re just interested in the opinion of a person they view as an expert. Really doesn’t seem unreasonable.
Can aluminum frames be successfully hard chromed?
Yes, Metalife Hard Chrome offers it.
@@108Performance thanks!
any thoughts on titanium 1911?
Interesting in concept but Ti is hard to machine and tends to gall, so it has been less than successful for frames/slides. Also it is not as light as aluminum so all that effort is for a few ounces.
What’s your take on S&W 1911s?
The original SW1911 models with the grip safety activated firing pin safety and the narrow extractor don't work well - the FP safety has timing issues and the extractor has a very high failure rate. The E Series eliminated the FP safety for a Ti FP, but the extractor still had some issues. It's very hard to pull off an external extractor on a 1911.
Can anyone recommend someone that does good reblueing or parkerizing? I have a WW2 Army issue 1911 that was mistakenly chromed years ago, and I want it taken back to original.
kgj1119 Doug Turnbull if you want real restoration, but it won’t be cheap.
Show the guns not your face all the time.