I have been a machinist for 48 yrs in the aerospace industry Quality MIM.parts are as good as any Emphasis on quality MIM PARTS are used in gas turbine Blades and jet engines
So Hilton if I understand you correctly their are higher quality mim parts vs lower quality mim to fit the equation . And placement of MIM parts are less important in some functions then others but ultimately when one is worn or broken is to replace it or all internals while it's torn down ! You are a asset to the entire community of firearms and beyond so Thank You for all your contributions.
There’s good reason why I’ve been doing business with 10-8P for well over a decade. Solid products based on knowledge and experience. The only sights I trust on my pistols. Numerous other parts tried, tested & proven.
Took all the mim parts out of my gun and was left with a barrel, slide and frame. EGW and Wilson billet parts filled the bill and I feel much better now but my wallet is lighter.
Another Great Video 👍. Ordered a Springfield RO couple years ago for Service Pistol CMP matches . Waited 9 months then Springfield without any notice stopped manufacturing RO. So my FFl ordered me the Springfield “Loaded” which was over a year ago still in production (not anymore after “Garrison”introduced) which is basically same as RO but more bells and whistles which included ambi-safety. While I use it for CMP matches, it’s educational to know the MIM ambi-Safety May be issue. May check into having a non-MIM ambi-Safety installed eventually.
Replaced the MIM parts in my two Sprinfield Elite Operators after seeing the hammer on the 5” Operator was actually “canted” to one side. Everything except the ejectors have been replaced with parts from Cylinder and Slide as well as from Ed Brown.
Great explanation of why and where MIM parts are used. I bought a 2020 Staccato P in January and have 1400 rounds through it. Awesome pistol. Glad to know they didn't fill it with MIM parts. I just discovered that the grip safety is not working but I'm sure that will be resolved. Enjoy the videos, keep them coming and stay safe.
Great video. Must say however I can not agree an oversized part is a bad part. An oversized part is a true match grade part designed to be hand fit to the gun. Warm and fuzzy? egw tool steel oversized parts. Hand fit for to the gun I am working on. No better sear made than the egw hard sear. A tigger job on that sear is a lifetime trigger job. A mim sear, not so much. The cool thing about lower cost 1911s with mim parts, they are a gateway drug to learning how to hand fit a 1911. Part by part. In the end you will understand the gun inside and out. Be able to spot a bad tuned 1911 from a mile away, and know how to fix it. Or deal with any malfunction. after years of using one learning started exactly that way, replacing mim parts and fitting them. A deeper understanding is a good thing.
I disagree with the position that all oversized parts are "match grade", whatever that is. There are plenty of sloppy, out of spec parts made from crappy materials that are foisted onto the unsuspecting consumers as "match grade", or better yet, "Mil-Spec". I too use EGW, 10-8, Harrison, plus Wilson BP, and some Nowlin. I'm not adverse to other brands as long as they have a positive history.
agreed, I bought a Prodigy, swapped out the trigger, ignition parts, firing pin. Next on the list is the hammer strut, firing pin block, ambi safety, slide stop, extractor, mag catch.
Colt 1911s have quite a few MIM parts but I have never had any trouble with any of my Colt 1911s. When parts break, I replace them. Not with other MIM parts if I can though.
Have used 1911's extensively that were from various price points. Have never had a failure that one could attribute to MIM. Have had a couple firing pin stops that cracked. Have had a firing pin that broke. Have had an extractor that lost tension. That's about it.
Great video. Just remember that there are many mim materials and the selection is crucial. Also custom blends are possible for improving material performance. In addition, a H.I.P. Post process can be specified to bring densities to 99.6% (expensive) Another key is mold design. Proper material flow is key to a good part. Doesn’t 10-8 sell 1911 parts? 😀
I and my buddy each had Kimbers Mine Custom Classic II, His an Eclipse both had many thousand rounds on them. Mine started to triple. I replaced the FCG with C&S Tactical II FCG. and 6 months later my buddy's Eclipse started doubling, and tripling, again replaced with C&S Tactical II FCG. I had to get the plunger tube replaced on my Colt Mk IV ser 80, and replaced the Slide stop, Beavertail, and safety. Because I'm watching this video.
My Colt Mk IV series 80 "Combat Special" also had a massive failure of the plunger tube WHILE I WAS firing at the range. The flared tang on the post on one end completely let go, the retaining pin snapped off and the plunger tube assy came almost off the frame which allowed the slide stop to um . . .stumble and part way engage during the firing cycle. Scared me big time. I stopped and investigated, came home and watched several dozen RUclips clips to see what was what. I ended up buying the installation tool and Ed Brown tube plus the 2 pins and spring all for about $50 from Brownell's. When it came, I studied the literature and watched the videos some more before I started. The whole job went super easily and when it was finished the pistol was BETTER than new! Since then, I have fired a few thousand rounds down range and ALL is well.
@@tomgiorgini9154 That would be the Fire Control Group - the combination of the hammer and trigger usually. The 2 safeties are included often, the grip safety and the manual (thumb) safety. Heck if you're going to go that far you might as well do the slide stop plus the sear and disconnector too.
@@timwalsh715 thanks for the reply i would assume from his explanation of the problem it was the sear and hammer his initials did not say to much to me anyways thanks for the clarification, after i posted i figured thats what he was indicating but that really does not describe what the problem was
I’m sure my Kimber KHX is full of MIM parts. It seems to work just fine but I did replace the funky looking slide stop with a 10-8 one just for peace of mind. We’ll see how the rest of the parts hold up.
Great video sir, I recently bought a used Springfield Armory MC Operator and I love it! It has a nice crisp trigger, it's accurate and has been reliable so far. I know its full of MIM parts but I'm not worried about, it's a fun gun not a duty gun...yet haha! I'm going to keep shooting it, having fun and I will pay close attention to the wear on the MIM parts. Thanks for the insight sir.
Food for thought: you can what if breakages to death, but I already covered the FP stop in the video. They aren't subject to shear stress and as such statistically less likely to fail regardless of composition.
I would replace factory slide stops with a Wilson Combat, Nighthawk or Ed Brown for the simple fact that they have a groove cut in to them that makes it a LOT easier to reinstall them. Being stronger is just an added bonus.
I would replace the factory slide stop with my 10-8 Performance part as it has improved lobe geometry not only for easy install, positive lock back, and a detent angle to reduce possibility of false lockback. But that’s just me.
MIM parts got a really bad rap back in the early 2000s when Kimber had a rash of parts breaking in their guns due to poor quality control of the MIM process. Around the same time Colt tried using MIM extractors, and that went over like a lead balloon as those failed almost immediately. Both companies learned their lesson and improved the quality of their parts, but the stigma has remained.
Interesting video. I too, love the 1911 Platform. Two questions, if I may, are you an Engineer? What Branch of the Military, if any, were you in? I was in the US Air Force. I'm also, retired Police. I've been using a 1911 for many Years but only, recreationally. You seem to have a lot of experience with this platform! Very interesting!
The extractor tool is plastic and the gun ate it up the first time I used it. I had a bunch of broken off plastic parts all over. I wasn’t impressed with its durability. The 2011 tool worked great though.
Hilton, apologies if you mentioned this and I missed it after watching the video twice: What is your opinion of MIM extractors and titanium firing pins? I'm thinking of recent US-made Springfield Mil Spec and probably many of their other 1911's. Thanks.
I don't recall any extractors being MIM, they're usually bar stock but the money is in the heat treat and fitting. Stock sub $1000 guns usually have money saved on both those critical areas and I always replace the extractors with Wilson Bulletproof. The Ti firing pin is fine. Check out my other 1911 videos for more info.
With this being said, what would be the best “base” gun to start with? Springfield Armory? I’ve had one for many years with the goal of having it fully rebuild or keeping it until I can afford a custom/semi custom 1911. Military career and a family don’t help with my gun budget lol. Maybe one day man...
Been there, done that. Didn't get a high end 1911 until 20 yr after retiring from the military and kid graduated from college. Hang in there, it will come.
This is what I have searched for but never found. Make a small I-beam, say one inch tall, half an inch wide, and six inches long using the cast method, forged method, and MIM method. Then prop up each end and put pressure in the middle in a standard strength test. Also, using each method, make a part that takes an impact, such has a pistol hammer or ejector, then do a comparison endurance test. Can anyone point me to that kind of video?
Certainly an admirable desire to see some scientific method being applied. However, the tooling for just the proposed I-beam alone - a mold for casting, a forging die, and a mold for MIM - would likely cost over $200-250k. Current ammunition price for the proposed endurance test of each of the 3 components is $.60 - $1 per round in .45. Then consider that RUclips videos are viewed for free, and prepared at the expense of the channel providing it. Your alternative is to do the test yourself by locating and purchasing your proposed cast, MIM, and forged hammers, then shoot 10k rounds through each and report back on your own RUclips channel.
Does it make any sense to replace MIM with cast? I had an old Ed Brown hardcore cast slide stop and opted to use it on my Kimber. Similarly I replaced the thumb safety with a Wilson cast unit for geometrical reasons. Any inherent advantage of MIM over cast parts or vice versa?
Ryan Smith As long as the part is a quality part, the method of manufacture is actually secondary. However, if we are speaking strictly of methods of manufacture, I would not place MIM or cast over one another as superior, as the only one I really feel is genuinely superior is machined bar stock.
Are there any MIM parts in the SA PRO Operator LR? If so, may I send it to you for corrections and to have the rear sight centered? The rear dovetail is tight!
Parts composition varied by each run. Sorry I’m not a gunsmithing shop. Leave the parts alone, we didn’t have them fail due to composition, and unless you’ll fire it more than we did at work you’re good.
@@christopherjohnson2171 really? I remember the frames were marked Brazil back in the day. From my understanding only NM marked frames were made in America. All others were made in Brazil.
@@dredd1995 Depends on what you define as "back in the day". I don't think it was until at least the mid-2000s they started doing that. I bought in '03 and the only hint was INSIDE of the dustcover a faint dot matrix marked "IMBEL".
@@christopherjohnson2171 I wasnt old enough to buy a handgun till 2016. So yeah I wouldn't know. They're still good guns though I'd take a Springfield over a Colt anyday even now still.
@@dredd1995 I'm the opposite, that Springfield was my first handgun purchase and was a total shitpiece but Colt was in a bad place at that time and didn't get their act together until about 2010. They use far less MIM and less dubious part choices such as Springfield's obsession with using the long style ejector even in calibers that don't require it.
Of course you already know to be careful with the brand of 1911 you purchase. They all will pretty much shoot well but what's inside them is going to make a big difference. Unless MIM parts are made correctly they will certainly fail. Cheaply made ejectors, sears and extractors are the first to go for sure. You won't get 300 rounds out of them. A cheaply made slide stop will more than likely just bend out of shape rather than snap. The 2 very best MIM 1911 parts are Fusion Firearms and Wilson Combat for sure.
Have you seen the new Bul Armory 2022 models like the SAS II Tac 4.25" (ruclips.net/video/Nf9aP7TUORo/видео.html)? It seems like a competitor to the Staccato P. I've been trying to find out from But Armory if any of the following are MIM parts? Slide stop, ambi thumb safety, hammer, sear, plunger tube, ejector.
Bul Armory guns are most certainly not a true competitor to the Staccato. They are imported, use a large quantity of MIM small parts, and are priced higher than comparable Staccato models. I prefer the Staccato, made in Texas with all US machined components.
Really over thinking i dont know one thing in todays world ever (100%)steele aint that i live close to a shops that cast iron and steele products and no product is 100% anymore
I have been a machinist for 48 yrs in the aerospace industry
Quality MIM.parts are as good as any
Emphasis on quality
MIM PARTS are used in gas turbine
Blades and jet engines
10=8 slide stop os a must. Great part aling with u not h sights
10-8 parts are top notch. As is the knowledge
Thank you!
So Hilton if I understand you correctly their are higher quality mim parts vs lower quality mim to fit the equation . And placement of MIM parts are less important in some functions then others but ultimately when one is worn or broken is to replace it or all internals while it's torn down ! You are a asset to the entire community of firearms and beyond so Thank You for all your contributions.
Exactly why I now buy only Dan Wesson and up 1911s...buy once, cry once. Worth it when ur life's on the line!!
I just purchased a Specialist today. I considered the TRP but the mim parts inside pushed me to buy the Specialist.
Used a 1911 in Vietnam over 50 years ago (still sleep with and carry that same gun . Love 1911s have many. This guy knows his stuff..
There’s good reason why I’ve been doing business with 10-8P for well over a decade. Solid products based on knowledge and experience. The only sights I trust on my pistols. Numerous other parts tried, tested & proven.
Thanks Hilton
Glad you answered my question on whether my 2020 Staccato P has any MIM parts!
Took all the mim parts out of my gun and was left with a barrel, slide and frame. EGW and Wilson billet parts filled the bill and I feel much better now but my wallet is lighter.
You’re killing Hilton, just got your dvd and now I’m seeing this, just started watching it, can’t wait to take it apart.
Another Great Video 👍. Ordered a Springfield RO couple years ago for Service Pistol CMP matches . Waited 9 months then Springfield without any notice stopped manufacturing RO. So my FFl ordered me the Springfield “Loaded” which was over a year ago still in production (not anymore after “Garrison”introduced) which is basically same as RO but more bells and whistles which included ambi-safety. While I use it for CMP matches, it’s educational to know the MIM ambi-Safety May be issue. May check into having a non-MIM ambi-Safety installed eventually.
Replaced the MIM parts in my two Sprinfield Elite Operators after seeing the hammer on the 5” Operator was actually “canted” to one side. Everything except the ejectors have been replaced with parts from Cylinder and Slide as well as from Ed Brown.
Excellent video. Thank you so much.!
Great explanation of why and where MIM parts are used. I bought a 2020 Staccato P in January and have 1400 rounds through it. Awesome pistol. Glad to know they didn't fill it with MIM parts. I just discovered that the grip safety is not working but I'm sure that will be resolved. Enjoy the videos, keep them coming and stay safe.
You’ll need to tune the leaf spring it literally takes 5 minutes be sure each leg is where they need to be when completing reassembly.
thank you for this video. Very helpful and informative
Great video, thanks for ají valuable. Information
The next time you fly commercially, be comforted to know that many parts in the engines are MIM.
😅
Aerospace parts are particle inspected and cheap gun parts aren’t so quality is everything
That’s why I drive 😅
@@thomascarpenter7415you’re dense
Great video. Must say however I can not agree an oversized part is a bad part.
An oversized part is a true match grade part designed to be hand fit to the gun.
Warm and fuzzy? egw tool steel oversized parts. Hand fit for to the gun I am working on.
No better sear made than the egw hard sear.
A tigger job on that sear is a lifetime trigger job.
A mim sear, not so much. The cool thing about lower cost 1911s with mim parts, they are a gateway drug to learning how to hand fit a 1911. Part by part.
In the end you will understand the gun inside and out. Be able to spot a bad tuned 1911 from a mile away, and know how to fix it.
Or deal with any malfunction. after years of using one learning started exactly that way, replacing mim parts and fitting them.
A deeper understanding is a good thing.
I disagree with the position that all oversized parts are "match grade", whatever that is. There are plenty of sloppy, out of spec parts made from crappy materials that are foisted onto the unsuspecting consumers as "match grade", or better yet, "Mil-Spec". I too use EGW, 10-8, Harrison, plus Wilson BP, and some Nowlin. I'm not adverse to other brands as long as they have a positive history.
agreed, I bought a Prodigy, swapped out the trigger, ignition parts, firing pin.
Next on the list is the hammer strut, firing pin block, ambi safety, slide stop, extractor, mag catch.
Colt 1911s have quite a few MIM parts but I have never had any trouble with any of my Colt 1911s. When parts break, I replace them. Not with other MIM parts if I can though.
Have used 1911's extensively that were from various price points. Have never had a failure that one could attribute to MIM. Have had a couple firing pin stops that cracked. Have had a firing pin that broke. Have had an extractor that lost tension. That's about it.
Great video.
You answered my questions on the subject.
Thank you.
I really enjoy your videos, thank you sir!
Great video. Just remember that there are many mim materials and the selection is crucial. Also custom blends are possible for improving material performance. In addition, a H.I.P. Post process can be specified to bring densities to 99.6% (expensive) Another key is mold design. Proper material flow is key to a good part. Doesn’t 10-8 sell 1911 parts? 😀
Great information, thanks for the video.
I and my buddy each had Kimbers Mine Custom Classic II, His an Eclipse both had many thousand rounds on them. Mine started to triple. I replaced the FCG with C&S Tactical II FCG. and 6 months later my buddy's Eclipse started doubling, and tripling, again replaced with C&S Tactical II FCG. I had to get the plunger tube replaced on my Colt Mk IV ser 80, and replaced the Slide stop, Beavertail, and safety. Because I'm watching this video.
My Colt Mk IV series 80 "Combat Special" also had a massive failure of the plunger tube WHILE I WAS firing at the range. The flared tang on the post on one end completely let go, the retaining pin snapped off and the plunger tube assy came almost off the frame which allowed the slide stop to um . . .stumble and part way engage during the firing cycle. Scared me big time. I stopped and investigated, came home and watched several dozen RUclips clips to see what was what. I ended up buying the installation tool and Ed Brown tube plus the 2 pins and spring all for about $50 from Brownell's. When it came, I studied the literature and watched the videos some more before I started. The whole job went super easily and when it was finished the pistol was BETTER than new! Since then, I have fired a few thousand rounds down range and ALL is well.
what is a fcg
@@tomgiorgini9154 That would be the Fire Control Group - the combination of the hammer and trigger usually. The 2 safeties are included often, the grip safety and the manual (thumb) safety. Heck if you're going to go that far you might as well do the slide stop plus the sear and disconnector too.
@@timwalsh715 thanks for the reply i would assume from his explanation of the problem it was the sear and hammer his initials did not say to much to me anyways thanks for the clarification, after i posted i figured thats what he was indicating but that really does not describe what the problem was
@@tomgiorgini9154 Fire Control Group = Hammer, Sear, and Disconnector.
Watches video... Then looks at his formally trusted Springfield Operator with hesitant suspicion.
former pilgrim Haha! If it has worked well for you then it’s doing ok.
I’m sure my Kimber KHX is full of MIM parts. It seems to work just fine but I did replace the funky looking slide stop with a 10-8 one just for peace of mind. We’ll see how the rest of the parts hold up.
Great video sir, I recently bought a used Springfield Armory MC Operator and I love it! It has a nice crisp trigger, it's accurate and has been reliable so far. I know its full of MIM parts but I'm not worried about, it's a fun gun not a duty gun...yet haha! I'm going to keep shooting it, having fun and I will pay close attention to the wear on the MIM parts. Thanks for the insight sir.
MIM 4 life!🤘🏾❤️
“1911 shaped gun” 🤣🤣🤣 that had me dead laughing.
Food for thought: the firing pin stop holds the extractor in, and controls its position in the slide. If it breaks and the bottom half falls out. . .
Food for thought: you can what if breakages to death, but I already covered the FP stop in the video. They aren't subject to shear stress and as such statistically less likely to fail regardless of composition.
108Performance personally I had one crack in half on a TRP after 1000 rounds.
I would replace factory slide stops with a Wilson Combat, Nighthawk or Ed Brown for the simple fact that they have a groove cut in to them that makes it a LOT easier to reinstall them. Being stronger is just an added bonus.
I would replace the factory slide stop with my 10-8 Performance part as it has improved lobe geometry not only for easy install, positive lock back, and a detent angle to reduce possibility of false lockback. But that’s just me.
@@108Performance i routinely do that. You just sent me another one.
MIM parts got a really bad rap back in the early 2000s when Kimber had a rash of parts breaking in their guns due to poor quality control of the MIM process. Around the same time Colt tried using MIM extractors, and that went over like a lead balloon as those failed almost immediately. Both companies learned their lesson and improved the quality of their parts, but the stigma has remained.
Dan Wesson 1911’s have zero MIM parts
Did you replace the plunger tube on your Springfield?
Always
Interesting video. I too, love the 1911 Platform. Two questions, if I may, are you an Engineer? What Branch of the Military, if any, were you in? I was in the US Air Force. I'm also, retired Police. I've been using a 1911 for many Years but only, recreationally. You seem to have a lot of experience with this platform! Very interesting!
As of mid 2022 Tisas 1911s no MIM parts
Who would you say makes the best production 1911 with MIM parts?Thanks
Springfield or Colt are always my top 2 picks.
How much will cost for change my Springfield garrison 9mm to machine made parts ?
The extractor tool is plastic and the gun ate it up the first time I used it. I had a bunch of broken off plastic parts all over. I wasn’t impressed with its durability. The 2011 tool worked great though.
Hilton, apologies if you mentioned this and I missed it after watching the video twice: What is your opinion of MIM extractors and titanium firing pins? I'm thinking of recent US-made Springfield Mil Spec and probably many of their other 1911's. Thanks.
I don't recall any extractors being MIM, they're usually bar stock but the money is in the heat treat and fitting. Stock sub $1000 guns usually have money saved on both those critical areas and I always replace the extractors with Wilson Bulletproof. The Ti firing pin is fine. Check out my other 1911 videos for more info.
@@108Performance I will, and thanks much for the reply.
With this being said, what would be the best “base” gun to start with? Springfield Armory? I’ve had one for many years with the goal of having it fully rebuild or keeping it until I can afford a custom/semi custom 1911. Military career and a family don’t help with my gun budget lol. Maybe one day man...
hilton makes some recommendations in this vid! ruclips.net/video/smI3weHHIZE/видео.html
Been there, done that. Didn't get a high end 1911 until 20 yr after retiring from the military and kid graduated from college. Hang in there, it will come.
PC B always said that would be my gift to myself when I get out. Now let’s see if it actually happens!
The one dislike is from a MIM distributor
I’ve seen more warped mim parts than I can count. I avoid them if possible.
This is what I have searched for but never found. Make a small I-beam, say one inch tall, half an inch wide, and six inches long using the cast method, forged method, and MIM method. Then prop up each end and put pressure in the middle in a standard strength test. Also, using each method, make a part that takes an impact, such has a pistol hammer or ejector, then do a comparison endurance test. Can anyone point me to that kind of video?
Certainly an admirable desire to see some scientific method being applied. However, the tooling for just the proposed I-beam alone - a mold for casting, a forging die, and a mold for MIM - would likely cost over $200-250k. Current ammunition price for the proposed endurance test of each of the 3 components is $.60 - $1 per round in .45. Then consider that RUclips videos are viewed for free, and prepared at the expense of the channel providing it.
Your alternative is to do the test yourself by locating and purchasing your proposed cast, MIM, and forged hammers, then shoot 10k rounds through each and report back on your own RUclips channel.
Does it make any sense to replace MIM with cast? I had an old Ed Brown hardcore cast slide stop and opted to use it on my Kimber. Similarly I replaced the thumb safety with a Wilson cast unit for geometrical reasons. Any inherent advantage of MIM over cast parts or vice versa?
Ryan Smith As long as the part is a quality part, the method of manufacture is actually secondary. However, if we are speaking strictly of methods of manufacture, I would not place MIM or cast over one another as superior, as the only one I really feel is genuinely superior is machined bar stock.
Are there any MIM parts in the SA PRO Operator LR? If so, may I send it to you for corrections and to have the rear sight centered? The rear dovetail is tight!
Parts composition varied by each run. Sorry I’m not a gunsmithing shop. Leave the parts alone, we didn’t have them fail due to composition, and unless you’ll fire it more than we did at work you’re good.
Thank you for your reply. I definitely won’t shoot it as much as you all did (unless someone wants to send me ammo), and will leave it as is.
"MIM on guns priced at 500-1000 dollars" *looks at my 3,000 dollar Springfield Custom Shop 1911* :(
That's Springfield for you. They tried hiding the fact the frames were made in Brazil for years too.
@@christopherjohnson2171 really? I remember the frames were marked Brazil back in the day. From my understanding only NM marked frames were made in America. All others were made in Brazil.
@@dredd1995 Depends on what you define as "back in the day". I don't think it was until at least the mid-2000s they started doing that. I bought in '03 and the only hint was INSIDE of the dustcover a faint dot matrix marked "IMBEL".
@@christopherjohnson2171 I wasnt old enough to buy a handgun till 2016. So yeah I wouldn't know. They're still good guns though I'd take a Springfield over a Colt anyday even now still.
@@dredd1995 I'm the opposite, that Springfield was my first handgun purchase and was a total shitpiece but Colt was in a bad place at that time and didn't get their act together until about 2010. They use far less MIM and less dubious part choices such as Springfield's obsession with using the long style ejector even in calibers that don't require it.
RIP Chip.
Of course you already know to be careful with the brand of 1911 you purchase. They all will pretty much shoot well but what's inside them is going to make a big difference. Unless MIM parts are made correctly they will certainly fail. Cheaply made ejectors, sears and extractors are the first to go for sure. You won't get 300 rounds out of them. A cheaply made slide stop will more than likely just bend out of shape rather than snap. The 2 very best MIM 1911 parts are Fusion Firearms and Wilson Combat for sure.
I thought all Wilson parts were made of steel ?
wilson's reputation far exceeds wilson in reality@@flyknuckle
MIM = Made In Mexico !
Have you seen the new Bul Armory 2022 models like the SAS II Tac 4.25" (ruclips.net/video/Nf9aP7TUORo/видео.html)? It seems like a competitor to the Staccato P. I've been trying to find out from But Armory if any of the following are MIM parts? Slide stop, ambi thumb safety, hammer, sear, plunger tube, ejector.
Bul Armory guns are most certainly not a true competitor to the Staccato. They are imported, use a large quantity of MIM small parts, and are priced higher than comparable Staccato models. I prefer the Staccato, made in Texas with all US machined components.
@@108Performance Thank you for responding and for your insight.
indo mim is good to go. Ignore this billet machined aftermarket.
Why take the chance with MIM? For a defense weapon, I would throw down the extra costs.
Great video! Appreciate the perspective. You should shave though, getting kind of scruffy looking there... Just sayin'.
Really over thinking i dont know one thing in todays world ever (100%)steele aint that i live close to a shops that cast iron and steele products and no product is 100% anymore
That's exactly why I love my sig saur gsr revolution.all parts are machined no mim parts and the who's who of performance parts.
Excellent overview Hilton!... when can we expect your Gen2 slide stops to be back in stock? Asking for a friend! lol
Jasper_Quade Maybe 4-6 weeks