Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
THANK YOU. After having this problem for a long time and knowing what it was I finally have the money to fix it, and now that I have the part this was the absolute best video I have seen on it. This needs to be the first video on RUclips when you look this up
@@AceFitPro714 I man i hope you see this soon/ fast enough. Just saw this notification. DO IT YOURSELF. It's a ltiny bit of a pain in the ass but it's so doable! the dealship(I live in canada) will probab;y charge hundrends fora job you could do yourself in 1 or even less than 1 hour.
Thank you so much for reviewing the symptoms. Nothing worse than a video about replacing a part than when you know it could be multiple different things but the symptoms in this case make it very clear.
This was by far the best of these videos, thanks! That bottom one is the hardest to remove, but stick with it. I took the others out, removed the sensor as shown here, then you can rotate the bottom one enough so you can push the clips and get a 90 degree pick under the top and pull it up. Pops right out then. When goign back in, recommend a little lube on that one. Start it, then use whatever you have to get some leverage. I used a wrecking bar to get behind it and push it until I could snap the locking ring. On the purge valve, there's a piece of rubber where it mounts to the bracket. Don't forget to take that out of the old assembly to securely mount it on the bracket. Total time for a complete DIY'er: 1 hour.
Local mechanics told me it was the Fuel Pump Module in tank, $1500 later and it repeated exact symptoms described in this video. I found the solution and thanks to your instruction, will be doing this myself.
I almost had this happen to me but I'm a natural negotiator and made that guy understand he wasn't just quoting just anyone. I didn't pay till he showed me it passed diagnostics
Thank you for sharing this video! This is EXACTLY what has been going on with my 2013 Fusion and I just returned home from the diagnostic test and was told this was in fact the problem. Now to share this video with my husband so he knows what is going on a little better, too!
I’m about to buy only the valve, I’m a little concerned about the hose; did you have to cut the hose? Or you just pulled it out and put the new one in?
I just took the new valve to my local Auto Parts store and got a hose to fit the valve. It was a little bigger, but it worked. Good luck. I hear the cause is due to overfilling the gas tank. Do not "top-off" your tank. Once the gas nozzle shuts off that's good.
My check engine light just came May 1st. Ran a diagnostic check and got a P1450 code. Bought the canister purge valve today and changed out the part thanks to this video. I didn't allow the light to stay on long enough to experience any symptoms.
That bottom connector is a big B! Thought I was going to have to take the alternator out until I saw this video! Appreciate the extra effort in explaining how the clasp actually worked. Didnt have the 90deg pick but was able to make a couple very long/ thin screw drivers work to release. All the other connections no problem. Thanks for the vid!
Wow that it difficult to see I'm glad I made the decision to pay to have the dealership fix mine. Most often common ford fuision fixes are minor and easy to locate and see.
Thank you so much for posting this video. My car had all three symptoms plus the service engine light. Bottom connector was a pain in the butt, didn’t have any kind of pic. Engine runs so much smoother now
Great video! Glad you didn't do those edits you were saying as it helped to know how much of a struggle the yellow clip was to be. I ended up using hand pruners to cuts the old hose assembly out of the way. Since I could only get one hand in there on the yellow one, I bent the ear back and used a really long pair of needle nose pliers to twist the ear completely off. I could then push the yellow clip out with the picker one handed. I noticed for the new one, they changed the clip design, so hopefully the next time will be easier in 10 years.
thanks for the video my man! for that bottom connector, I didn't have a 90 degree pick that long but after struggling with a short 90 pick, I borrowed a more hook style pick of the same size and got it right away! took care of codes p2196, p1450, and p0456 and of course stopped the stalling after refueling on my mother in laws 2015 fusion 2.0!
Haha; you went to great lengths at around 2:30 to avoid saying that it sounds like your car is farting from the fuel filler. I'm happy to do that for you, if it doesn't want to start after fill up and then sounds like that car is farting, you have this issue. Also, that one clip down in the engine by the alternator is a huge pain to get at. If this happens again, I'll have a mechanic fix it just to avoid that grief. My best advice for getting that one off is to cut the hose, because you have to rotate the attachment to more easily get the tab pulled. It's nearly impossible with the full hose and fittings attached. To get it back on, get it in place and then take a very long and wide flat screwdriver and leverage it against the alternator housing to push the fitting fully on. It's brutal to try and do it with your hands alone.
Thanks for the video. Same thing was going on with my daughters 15 Fusion 2.0 65,000 miles. While doing this I removed the air intake snorkel just to have better access to the valve. I also cut the hose going to that bottom connection so I could spin it around. What a pain getting that one. Also used a mini pry bar to get that same one back on. Your video was the best one I found on this problem. Thanks again!
@Ruben Laugon mini pry bar. It was from a set I got from Harbor Freight. Nothing too big. I can’t remember if I had the clip open or closed when I snapped it on. I would play it safe and open it then close it when it’s on all the way and give it a tug to make sure it’s on good.
@mike_O’Neill hey guys I have a lot of trouble putting back that bottom connector. Did you buy the exact same brand as in the video ? If yes, please give more details. Also how do I unlock the clip? (The new part doesn’t have those yellow ears)
@@sheridanzampou8406 I bought the replacement at Napa. Mine had the tabs. That bottom one was a pain. I used a small pry bar to help push that bottom one on. Someone also mentioned using a silicone lubricant to help.
Thanks for this! That bottom piece really got me frustrated but I did like you said and used something to pry out the yellow piece. Saved me time and more frustration.
As others have said. Thanks for the video and leaving the struggle. I got everything but the bottom one off, now me and my numb fingers are going to harbor freight to grab a pick to finish this. Luckily the new part adds an extra connector at the solenoid so if I ever have to replace it again, it's only the 2 at the solenoid
Gonna be doing this soon on my 2.0 explorer same motor and everything however the intercooler piping is setup like the 3.5 fortunately. Gives me a whole lot of space to work with
Thanks so much for the video. Had an appointment with the dealership who wanted to charge me $165 just for diagnostic and probably another $200-$300 for the repair, parts and labor. Went to the local Auto Store and had the code evaluated, found out the purge valve was a possible cause of the code. The symptoms you mentioned fit my situation exactly. Found your video while at the Auto Store, saw how easy this was, and $87 and an hour later the problem is solved and I have a new purge valve! Thanks!
I will have to do this soon. Mine idles super rough after refueling, has since I bought it. It does run better if i put it in neutral if I need to stop right after leaving the gas station.
Thanks for this video mine kept making that weird noise and I would have to pull my car over and hurry up and push on the button where the gas goes into release the pressure or my car wouldn’t stay running- going to do this once the part comes in
Just had dealer replace mine. Symptoms were stalling at low idle. No check engine light came on. Two independent mechanics couldn't find what problem was. Since replaced no stalling and performance of car is much improved. Didn't really feel performance issue beforehand but felt improvement after. Ford mechanic said there was a vacuum leak somewhere along the tubing. Thanks for the video. Really nice job explaining and documenting procedure.
Hope you see this… so I bought the solenoid by itself, but had issues talking it off the tube that is barbed. I cut off the old part and realized I had no idea how to fit the new part in that tube. Any ideas?
I'm just now having this problem! It didn't pass smog test. Because of this. Of course check engine light was on because of it. I got my fusion brand spanking new in 2014 and just had this problem 1st time. It's my first American car. I was so nervous to get it because people say foreign cars are much better with less issues. I must have gotten a great batch lol 😂 I love my car 💕 I talk to her too she's my baby 🥰
I’ve had my 2014 since new. Over 190k miles on it with very few problems! Had one sensor go bad (fixed under warranty) and an AC compressor went out at 160k. Now, I likely have this sensor to replace as well 😂 Overall a great, low maintenance car!
Hello. I have a Ford Transit Connect 2020. I had such symptoms that I changed the valve. but is there any twitching during acceleration? what could it be?
Hi love the info you provided .I have a question I have a 2013 Fusion and the code comes up P0457 fuel filler inlet so I cleaned the flaps in the inlet still have code after resetting it ..Could changing the canister purge valve fix this problem ? The check engine light comes on after fill up after it reaches 1/2 a tank of fuel .
My car is a 2020 fusion titanium it would always stumble after filling up like it was going to stall but it would save itself and now i have a p2096 post catalyst fuel trim lean and i feel like mine is caused by this purge valve failing and causing a vacuum leak which it creating the lean condition i got the part I'm installing it asap i hope it cures it, just wanting to check in and see if this part failing has caused my code before
The purge valve fixed my stalling issue but far as the lean condition it was just the rear o2 sensor was bad and did make the car run bad and especially if you put it under boost it would break up real bad and later on a replaced the upstream o2 sensor as well and 20k miles later so far I haven't had a single issue it still runs like a top
Awesome video, thank you! I’ve got a 2019 Fusion Titanium with the 2.0L in it. I need to replace this part. It looks identical to the one I need to replace but every website I go to says it’s not compatible? Do you happen to have any insight on whether or not it should work? Thanks in advance!
Do you you know how to replace the e-vap canister that is located in the back of the car? On a 2018 ford fusion 2.0 ecoboost awd. Thank you in advance!
Have this on my 2020 ford fusion every time I put gas in it. It only does it when I put gas in it. Happen 3 times with it not starting up like it's suppose to. I get my parts on the 9th of March and will not be putting gas in it until I put the new purge/sylenoid valve in. No more evaporated emissions and I can put gas in without stressing 😌
Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
@@marioramirez2096 This is what I am about to try today. I have bought just the purge valve itself, not the entire assembly with various connections. I plan to heat up the hose where it meets the purge valve and wiggle it out, or cut it and reattach new part with heavy duty heat shrink tubing like you mentioned. We shall see. Certainly easier than messing with that bottom clip and the part is $15 instead of $100. 2014 Fusion 2.0L
Replaced this and thought for sure it would fix it. We cleared the code afterwards. Now it sounds like the car doesn't want to go into gear. Put in in reverse and the car acted like it didn't want to go
So, ignorant question here, but... if it's the purge valve itself that's bad can you simply replace the purge valve without replacing all the tubing/connections? Is there even a way to disconnect the tubing from the valve itself? I'm guessing the routed tubing plays an important role in the function of the valve, but, since it's just conducting flow is it absolutely necessary to remove it?
@@THEDriverMod_ Right. I get that. I assume it's possible to disconnect the hose assembly room the valve? Using the old hose/tubing wouldn't hurt anything right (unless, of course, it was damaged)?
My car does this sound after driving it for a couple minutes and I see my dashboard and the car seems to be trying to pull energy to stay on. I’ve checked it with a scanner and I get the code p2196. I thought that was the problem and got that part changed and it still did the noise and the part on the dashboard where one needle also shakes and my car shakes a little as well
I took my car to a mechanic who charged 750 based off their “code reader” and “smoke test” that detected no leaks but picked my car up after they replaced the solenoid. The next day my car stalled getting gas. This is a great video.
Hey I have a 2018 fusion se, the check engine light came on and the code was p0456. Every time I’m done pumping gas, the car struggles to turn on and won’t turn on usually after the 2nd or 3rd time, could this be related to the code I got?
Do you know a way I can rig it up so I only be able to change out the purge valve and not the hoses… this is gonna be my second time in a year since having this mkz it’s a 2013
Hey sir is the problem with the gas im using i use regular should i use 87 for now on also can i just replace the value by itself i stead of the whole thing cause it does come by itself
Had all 3 symptoms. The codes I pulled were P0496- Evaporative Emission System High Purge Flow P2196- O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1 My 2019 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 ecoboost called for part # HG9Z9D289D I saw a few comments on a Fusion forum saying you don't need to replace the hose with the yellow color head (save yourself the trouble!) I just snipped the zip ties and changed the 2 main hoses connected to the purge valve. The only tool I used was a small flat head screw driver. It took a total of 10 minutes to remove and replace the hoses. Once I reset the codes and started the car it sounded like it purred instead of the chugging idle sound it made for a couple of weeks now. If you don't have a scanner tool to reset the code just disconnect your negative terminal on the battery for about 5-10 minutes and reconnect. I just changed this today so I will update if the code reappears. Thanks for this video!
kind friend good morning I ask for your help for my Ford c max 1.8 duratec petrol I will explain to you the car has two defects when I run on petrol the trigger goes off second defect when I accelerate on the gas and as if it were suffocating it lacks thrust what could it be? I thought about the Cannister filter behind the fuel tank and then changing the hose in front of the engine compartment with this solenoid. Do you think I can solve the problem? Thanks for your help, the car doesn't turn on the warning lights in the instrument cluster.🙏🏻
have a P0456 on my 2017 Ford Fusion . "Evaporative emission small leak detected" I was wondering if replacing the purge value well fix my issue? Because Ford is charging 450 to do it when the part is like 50$ and I think I can do it myself .
Question pls. On the left rear under of my ford fusion 2017 when I take a long trip there is white smog coming from like a valve after I parked but it only last few minutes. It is not from the exhaust , it is from a small valve on the left rear under side. What is it ?
@@THEDriverMod_is it better that I remove the alternator? It’s almost like the new connector is too fat to fit in there. It’s kinda squareish vs circle on the old one.
So I had this issue about a year almost 2 years ago. Got it replaced at a shop for $530. This past month the engine light came on for the same issue. How long do the valves last on the 2015 ford fusion se 2.0L? About that 1.5 year to 2 years? Or would this be caused by a deeper issue?
How do you remove the bottom connector on the Dorman replacement part? Previous owner did this once but it needs it again. So I have the Dorman replacement connected to the engine but the clips work differently than the original. I also have an identical Dorman replacement that I intend to replace the current one with. I've been fiddling with it to try and figure out that bottom clip but it's hard to understand without also having the male piece to fiddle with. Does the grey tab pull out? Or do you just push the ears away from each other and pull the connector off?
Thanks. Excellent view of the view of the EVAP valve and replacement. Got my 13 Titanium via auction, deficiencies included. 1st iindication was rpm limited to rough 4 to 4500 rpm. Replaced coils and basic plugs with Iridium TT plugs. Running performance 100%. Then, as you stated, came the idle roughness, then gas tank groans and finaly the P1450. Thx again.
just curious, if this part is faulty can you feel air blowing from the bottom connections ? i have a rough idle that gets worse when i turn the a/c on. the thing is my car doesnt show any engine light but when i connect it to my blue driver and see the live feed, purge valve monitor shows yellow indicator rather than a green checkmark
Can you please tell me where did you buy the whole assembly? I called all auto parts stores around central and north jersey none of them have it and one Ford dealership only has solenoid. Thank you in advance!
I changed the part and put the new one but the engine light is still on, do I have to delete the code with a scanner or can I disconnect the battery? can you help me please
@@THEDriverMod_ It just happened to my 2015 titanium. I noticed hoses in the way when you were taking the old one out. Could you remove them, or would that cause more problems? Thanks for posting this, I have it saved when I'm ready to fix it.👍👍
162k miles and has only needed two purge valves?!?! If thats true, thats amazing. I know you go 12-14k miles with the Amsoil Signature Series, I am astonished. I guess the product delivers. I know ecoboost engines can be hit or miss in terms of long term reliability, that definitely speaks to the Amsoil product for sure!
Hey I have a 2017 ford fusion we 1.5 liter eco boost I want to know if this part will fit my car it says it doesn’t when I put in my car info on Amazon
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Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
THANK YOU. After having this problem for a long time and knowing what it was I finally have the money to fix it, and now that I have the part this was the absolute best video I have seen on it. This needs to be the first video on RUclips when you look this up
Like, share and subscribe will all help! Check out our give away we are doing!
This is happening to my ‘17 sport. The Ford dealership is the only shop that had an opening for Monday, what should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
@@AceFitPro714 I man i hope you see this soon/ fast enough. Just saw this notification. DO IT YOURSELF. It's a ltiny bit of a pain in the ass but it's so doable! the dealship(I live in canada) will probab;y charge hundrends fora job you could do yourself in 1 or even less than 1 hour.
Miami florida here, they wanna charge me $650 !!! Thank God i saw this video in time
I'm just up the road in daytona area!
Bossman thank u for not editing this I needed to know it's not just me struggling with these damn clips lol
I try to keep it as real and lifelike as possible! Appreciate the feed back. You got it done though right?
Yes sir but for some damn reason my ac is blowing hot air lol when it rains it pours Bossman
Thank you so much for reviewing the symptoms. Nothing worse than a video about replacing a part than when you know it could be multiple different things but the symptoms in this case make it very clear.
You're welcome! Thanks for the feed back!
what the fuck are the symptoms
This was by far the best of these videos, thanks! That bottom one is the hardest to remove, but stick with it. I took the others out, removed the sensor as shown here, then you can rotate the bottom one enough so you can push the clips and get a 90 degree pick under the top and pull it up. Pops right out then. When goign back in, recommend a little lube on that one. Start it, then use whatever you have to get some leverage. I used a wrecking bar to get behind it and push it until I could snap the locking ring. On the purge valve, there's a piece of rubber where it mounts to the bracket. Don't forget to take that out of the old assembly to securely mount it on the bracket.
Total time for a complete DIY'er: 1 hour.
Great insight and tips! Thank you
@@Atlridesharejay Thank you for this comment needing lube and leverage wasn’t shown in the video.
Thank you for your video. You explained it so well, including the symptoms and a lot of content creators don’t do that.
Appreciate the postive feed back!
Local mechanics told me it was the Fuel Pump Module in tank, $1500 later and it repeated exact symptoms described in this video. I found the solution and thanks to your instruction, will be doing this myself.
Sorry to hear that but hopefully you can get it done yourself!
@@THEDriverMod_ Lesson learned but happy I found your video, thanks!
I almost had this happen to me but I'm a natural negotiator and made that guy understand he wasn't just quoting just anyone. I didn't pay till he showed me it passed diagnostics
Very helpful! I ended up just cutting the hoses to the two lower connections so I could spin them around so I could undo the clips easier.
That's a good idea! Glad you were able to get it done!
Thank you for sharing this video! This is EXACTLY what has been going on with my 2013 Fusion and I just returned home from the diagnostic test and was told this was in fact the problem. Now to share this video with my husband so he knows what is going on a little better, too!
Also, my car has 158,645 miles and this is the first time this has ever happened.
Happy to hear this helped you out! Definitely share and hope you get it solved
Just ended up with this problem and I have a 2014! Wonder if it's a factory problem
I just bought the valve and changed it out and all is fine. Didn't have to mess with all the hoses. Thanks for the video.
I’m about to buy only the valve, I’m a little concerned about the hose; did you have to cut the hose? Or you just pulled it out and put the new one in?
@@hectorvalenzuela8817
I just took the new valve to my local Auto Parts store and got a hose to fit the valve. It was a little bigger, but it worked. Good luck. I hear the cause is due to overfilling the gas tank. Do not "top-off" your tank. Once the gas nozzle shuts off that's good.
Had this issue and let it go for too long. Now I'm freaking with other engine issues. Thanks for helping me replace this.
Sorry to hear that, what's the car doing? Maybe I can help
My check engine light just came May 1st. Ran a diagnostic check and got a P1450 code. Bought the canister purge valve today and changed out the part thanks to this video. I didn't allow the light to stay on long enough to experience any symptoms.
Thank you for posting this video. The Ford dealership wanted $210+ for this part. Insanity.
You're welcome!
This video is amazing!!! Thank you! I’m going to install mine tomorrow since the part came in the mail today.
Nice
@@THEDriverMod_ just an update, i installed mine using your tutorial with no prior experience and my car is all fixed! can't thank you enough!
@@JusticeJennings-q8z that's awesome to hear!
Respect for showing the struggle
Just want to be as real as possible for you guys!
That bottom connector is a big B! Thought I was going to have to take the alternator out until I saw this video! Appreciate the extra effort in explaining how the clasp actually worked. Didnt have the 90deg pick but was able to make a couple very long/ thin screw drivers work to release. All the other connections no problem. Thanks for the vid!
You're welcome! Appreciate the comment feedback!
Wow that it difficult to see I'm glad I made the decision to pay to have the dealership fix mine. Most often common ford fuision fixes are minor and easy to locate and see.
Thank you so much for posting this video. My car had all three symptoms plus the service engine light. Bottom connector was a pain in the butt, didn’t have any kind of pic. Engine runs so much smoother now
Awesome to hear! Yea it's definitely a pain, I wish there was some sort of trick without disassembling alot of the engine bay but you got it done!
Great video! Glad you didn't do those edits you were saying as it helped to know how much of a struggle the yellow clip was to be. I ended up using hand pruners to cuts the old hose assembly out of the way. Since I could only get one hand in there on the yellow one, I bent the ear back and used a really long pair of needle nose pliers to twist the ear completely off. I could then push the yellow clip out with the picker one handed. I noticed for the new one, they changed the clip design, so hopefully the next time will be easier in 10 years.
Thanks fir the solid feedback!
thanks for the video my man! for that bottom connector, I didn't have a 90 degree pick that long but after struggling with a short 90 pick, I borrowed a more hook style pick of the same size and got it right away! took care of codes p2196, p1450, and p0456 and of course stopped the stalling after refueling on my mother in laws 2015 fusion 2.0!
Good work, happy to help!
Haha; you went to great lengths at around 2:30 to avoid saying that it sounds like your car is farting from the fuel filler. I'm happy to do that for you, if it doesn't want to start after fill up and then sounds like that car is farting, you have this issue. Also, that one clip down in the engine by the alternator is a huge pain to get at. If this happens again, I'll have a mechanic fix it just to avoid that grief.
My best advice for getting that one off is to cut the hose, because you have to rotate the attachment to more easily get the tab pulled. It's nearly impossible with the full hose and fittings attached. To get it back on, get it in place and then take a very long and wide flat screwdriver and leverage it against the alternator housing to push the fitting fully on. It's brutal to try and do it with your hands alone.
I did because that's what it sounds like lol all good helpful tips for others watching this video!
Omg that’s what I told my son. My car is farting and he died laughing lol
Thanks for the video. Same thing was going on with my daughters 15 Fusion 2.0 65,000 miles. While doing this I removed the air intake snorkel just to have better access to the valve. I also cut the hose going to that bottom connection so I could spin it around. What a pain getting that one. Also used a mini pry bar to get that same one back on. Your video was the best one I found on this problem. Thanks again!
Glad you got it handled yourself. Thank you for the positive feedback for others!
@Ruben Laugon mini pry bar. It was from a set I got from Harbor Freight. Nothing too big. I can’t remember if I had the clip open or closed when I snapped it on. I would play it safe and open it then close it when it’s on all the way and give it a tug to make sure it’s on good.
@Ruben Laugon Glad it worked out. 👍
@mike_O’Neill hey guys I have a lot of trouble putting back that bottom connector. Did you buy the exact same brand as in the video ? If yes, please give more details.
Also how do I unlock the clip? (The new part doesn’t have those yellow ears)
@@sheridanzampou8406 I bought the replacement at Napa. Mine had the tabs. That bottom one was a pain. I used a small pry bar to help push that bottom one on. Someone also mentioned using a silicone lubricant to help.
Thanks for this! That bottom piece really got me frustrated but I did like you said and used something to pry out the yellow piece. Saved me time and more frustration.
Awesome! Nice job, happy it helped
As others have said. Thanks for the video and leaving the struggle. I got everything but the bottom one off, now me and my numb fingers are going to harbor freight to grab a pick to finish this. Luckily the new part adds an extra connector at the solenoid so if I ever have to replace it again, it's only the 2 at the solenoid
You're very welcome, thanks for the comment, feedback and appreciation. You're almost done!
Wow awesome! Thanks for this going to get it done on my 18 fusion.
You're welcome and no problem!
Gonna be doing this soon on my 2.0 explorer same motor and everything however the intercooler piping is setup like the 3.5 fortunately.
Gives me a whole lot of space to work with
Nice!
Just a tip. Cut the tubes so you can rotate the clips for easier disassembly. New part snaps in no problem
That's a great tip!
Thanks so much for the video. Had an appointment with the dealership who wanted to charge me $165 just for diagnostic and probably another $200-$300 for the repair, parts and labor. Went to the local Auto Store and had the code evaluated, found out the purge valve was a possible cause of the code. The symptoms you mentioned fit my situation exactly. Found your video while at the Auto Store, saw how easy this was, and $87 and an hour later the problem is solved and I have a new purge valve! Thanks!
you're welcome!
They wanted $700 from me.
Thank you for this video just what I needed my ford edge failed I thought was canister purge valve …stripped it out so replace that too
I will have to do this soon. Mine idles super rough after refueling, has since I bought it. It does run better if i put it in neutral if I need to stop right after leaving the gas station.
You can do it!
Thanks for this video mine kept making that weird noise and I would have to pull my car over and hurry up and push on the button where the gas goes into release the pressure or my car wouldn’t stay running- going to do this once the part comes in
Just started having this issue after fillinh up thank you 🙏🏾🙏🏾
You're welcome! Get that fixed!
Just had dealer replace mine. Symptoms were stalling at low idle. No check engine light came on. Two independent mechanics couldn't find what problem was. Since replaced no stalling and performance of car is much improved. Didn't really feel performance issue beforehand but felt improvement after. Ford mechanic said there was a vacuum leak somewhere along the tubing. Thanks for the video. Really nice job explaining and documenting procedure.
Thanks, that's definitely a unique experience on your end. Never seen that before myself
@@THEDriverMod_ should have mentioned car has 107k miles...first non-maintenance repair...best car ever since my very first in 1970
These cars look awesome and are super reliable from my experience. Mine is at almost 175k miles
This is happening to my ‘17 sport. The Ford dealership is the only shop that had an opening for Monday, what should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
@@AceFitPro714 depends on labor rate, are you paying for diagnosis too or not. I would like to say anywhere between 300-900 dollars
Hope you see this… so I bought the solenoid by itself, but had issues talking it off the tube that is barbed. I cut off the old part and realized I had no idea how to fit the new part in that tube. Any ideas?
No, that's one reason why I just do it this way that I did in the video
Да есть идея нагрей трубку немного феном или в кипятке и с усилием сможешь её вставить
I'm just now having this problem! It didn't pass smog test. Because of this. Of course check engine light was on because of it. I got my fusion brand spanking new in 2014 and just had this problem 1st time. It's my first American car. I was so nervous to get it because people say foreign cars are much better with less issues. I must have gotten a great batch lol 😂 I love my car 💕 I talk to her too she's my baby 🥰
I’ve had my 2014 since new. Over 190k miles on it with very few problems! Had one sensor go bad (fixed under warranty) and an AC compressor went out at 160k. Now, I likely have this sensor to replace as well 😂
Overall a great, low maintenance car!
Hello. I have a Ford Transit Connect 2020. I had such symptoms that I changed the valve. but is there any twitching during acceleration? what could it be?
Possibly a Torque converter shudder is the most likely cause
@THEDriverMod_ Do these models have this problem? with gearbox or with publication?
Hi love the info you provided .I have a question I have a 2013 Fusion and the code comes up P0457 fuel filler inlet so I cleaned the flaps in the inlet still have code after resetting it ..Could changing the canister purge valve fix this problem ? The check engine light comes on after fill up after it reaches 1/2 a tank of fuel .
It's definitely possible
My car is a 2020 fusion titanium it would always stumble after filling up like it was going to stall but it would save itself and now i have a p2096 post catalyst fuel trim lean and i feel like mine is caused by this purge valve failing and causing a vacuum leak which it creating the lean condition i got the part I'm installing it asap i hope it cures it, just wanting to check in and see if this part failing has caused my code before
The purge valve fixed my stalling issue but far as the lean condition it was just the rear o2 sensor was bad and did make the car run bad and especially if you put it under boost it would break up real bad and later on a replaced the upstream o2 sensor as well and 20k miles later so far I haven't had a single issue it still runs like a top
Does the link work for a 2015 Ford Fusion SE 4 Cylinder 1.5L... just wondering before I buy...
No unfortunately, that is a different part numbers and procedure
Awesome video, thank you! I’ve got a 2019 Fusion Titanium with the 2.0L in it. I need to replace this part. It looks identical to the one I need to replace but every website I go to says it’s not compatible? Do you happen to have any insight on whether or not it should work? Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately I do not know why, maybe the part number got uodated?
Same… did you ever find part?
Do you you know how to replace the e-vap canister that is located in the back of the car? On a 2018 ford fusion 2.0 ecoboost awd.
Thank you in advance!
I've never done it but those are always pretty straight forward
Have this on my 2020 ford fusion every time I put gas in it. It only does it when I put gas in it. Happen 3 times with it not starting up like it's suppose to. I get my parts on the 9th of March and will not be putting gas in it until I put the new purge/sylenoid valve in. No more evaporated emissions and I can put gas in without stressing 😌
Hi thank you for this video! Do you know, can I remove the purge valve from the tubing and only replace the purge valve? I want to avoid having to dig inside to replace all the vacuums and wondered if I can just switch the valves without the tubes?
Not with the part I used. I've never done it that way so I don't know
@@marioramirez2096 This is what I am about to try today. I have bought just the purge valve itself, not the entire assembly with various connections. I plan to heat up the hose where it meets the purge valve and wiggle it out, or cut it and reattach new part with heavy duty heat shrink tubing like you mentioned. We shall see. Certainly easier than messing with that bottom clip and the part is $15 instead of $100. 2014 Fusion 2.0L
Replaced this and thought for sure it would fix it. We cleared the code afterwards. Now it sounds like the car doesn't want to go into gear. Put in in reverse and the car acted like it didn't want to go
So, ignorant question here, but... if it's the purge valve itself that's bad can you simply replace the purge valve without replacing all the tubing/connections? Is there even a way to disconnect the tubing from the valve itself? I'm guessing the routed tubing plays an important role in the function of the valve, but, since it's just conducting flow is it absolutely necessary to remove it?
I believe it's possible but at the time the part was not available separately
@@THEDriverMod_ Right. I get that. I assume it's possible to disconnect the hose assembly room the valve? Using the old hose/tubing wouldn't hurt anything right (unless, of course, it was damaged)?
@@THEDriverMod_ Thanks for replying, by the way. Great video!
aslong as its not damaged and can be reattached @@kennywood6434
My car does this sound after driving it for a couple minutes and I see my dashboard and the car seems to be trying to pull energy to stay on. I’ve checked it with a scanner and I get the code p2196. I thought that was the problem and got that part changed and it still did the noise and the part on the dashboard where one needle also shakes and my car shakes a little as well
Hi my car has the same problem. Did you fix yours?
I took my car to a mechanic who charged 750 based off their “code reader” and “smoke test” that detected no leaks but picked my car up after they replaced the solenoid. The next day my car stalled getting gas. This is a great video.
It could be the low pressure fuel sensor
@@THEDriverMod_ my purge calve sits different than the one in this video but mine is 2015. Do you know of any good links with pics?
@@nicoleleu5984 I do not. I have the 2.0 ecoboost so you must have a different engine
Thanks Happy New Year's 😊
Great video, but a bit of warning.. if you are big of hand, that jump cut where the lower throttle body connection is removed is an hour+ long. :)
Great point!
Do I need to buy the whole assembly to clear the light or can I just get the valve. There’s two options at my store the whole thing and just the valve
Just the valve is fine
@@THEDriverMod_ cool it’s 100 dollars cheaper
Thanks a lot my brother!!! This was really helpful 🙇🙏
You're welcome!
Hey I have a 2018 fusion se, the check engine light came on and the code was p0456. Every time I’m done pumping gas, the car struggles to turn on and won’t turn on usually after the 2nd or 3rd time, could this be related to the code I got?
Yes. This procedure will fix the issue
Changed the purge valve on my 2020 fusion 1.5 liter turbo and the fuel is rapidly dropping when driving. Roughly 3x as fast as normal. Any guesses?
@MintyFresh3693 maybe a leaking injector, are you driving it more aggressively to where it's boosting more?
I have p2450 code what piece need to replace?
I believe you can purchase the Vapor Canister Purge Valve separately.
I've heard that as well but at the time I made the video, you could not
Do I need a code reader to reset code after I make replacement?
Yes, it should go away eventually, but if you want it gone immediately, you will need a code reader
Ok, thank you for responding so quickly! Can I clear the code later after new installation? Or does it have to be right after new install?
It can he at any time
Do you know a way I can rig it up so I only be able to change out the purge valve and not the hoses… this is gonna be my second time in a year since having this mkz it’s a 2013
I do not, maybe some hose clamps but I can't verify that for sure
Do you have to put the vehicle in maintenance mode before you start pulling the fuel purge valve apart?
Maintenance mode?
Is this procedure the exact same for a 2015 MKZ 2 L EcoBoost
Likely, can't make any promises
Hey sir is the problem with the gas im using i use regular should i use 87 for now on also can i just replace the value by itself i stead of the whole thing cause it does come by itself
It's not the gas you are using, you can replace the valve itself
So i can just replace the value that’s 30 or 40 dollars on the market
Thank you bro bro
@@THEDriverMod_ how i would know if the engine like go off
@@Wizthehitmaker you'll have to clear the light with a code reader
damn my 2019 joint just got that engine light 😐 it still got warranty tho i hope they fix it quick
Hopefully!
Had all 3 symptoms. The codes I pulled were P0496- Evaporative Emission System High Purge Flow
P2196- O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
My 2019 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 ecoboost called for part # HG9Z9D289D
I saw a few comments on a Fusion forum saying you don't need to replace the hose with the yellow color head (save yourself the trouble!) I just snipped the zip ties and changed the 2 main hoses connected to the purge valve. The only tool I used was a small flat head screw driver. It took a total of 10 minutes to remove and replace the hoses. Once I reset the codes and started the car it sounded like it purred instead of the chugging idle sound it made for a couple of weeks now. If you don't have a scanner tool to reset the code just disconnect your negative terminal on the battery for about 5-10 minutes and reconnect. I just changed this today so I will update if the code reappears. Thanks for this video!
You're welcome. Great feedback
Amazon is telling me this does not fit my 2019 Fusion 2.0. Would you recommend I still buy it?
Part numbers get updated all the time
Salute to everyone grind, Motivations, accomplishments , families , goals.....
kind friend good morning I ask for your help for my Ford c max 1.8 duratec petrol I will explain to you the car has two defects when I run on petrol the trigger goes off second defect when I accelerate on the gas and as if it were suffocating it lacks thrust what could it be? I thought about the Cannister filter behind the fuel tank and then changing the hose in front of the engine compartment with this solenoid. Do you think I can solve the problem? Thanks for your help, the car doesn't turn on the warning lights in the instrument cluster.🙏🏻
Sounds like 2 separate issues, not very familiar with those vehicles
Very helpful. thank you
You're welcome. Thank you for the feedback
have a P0456 on my 2017 Ford Fusion . "Evaporative emission small leak detected" I was wondering if replacing the purge value well fix my issue? Because Ford is charging 450 to do it when the part is like 50$ and I think I can do it myself .
Highly likely that is the issue.
@@THEDriverMod_ Thank you brother for you input!
Hello, I have a question about a hose, can I send you a photograph of my Ford Fusion 2015 2.0 engine?
Sure, are you subscribed to the channel?
@@THEDriverMod_ Yes
Send it to me on Instagram
Is this repair related to the error code P1023?
No it is not
Question pls. On the left rear under of my ford fusion 2017 when I take a long trip there is white smog coming from like a valve after I parked but it only last few minutes. It is not from the exhaust , it is from a small valve on the left rear under side. What is it ?
No idea my friend
Where did you get that long pick tool? Can’t find it anywhere
Snap on
What's the difference between purge valve and canister vent solenoid my p1450 says I need a canister vent solenoid
Same part, no difference, Same thing we replaced in this video
I was told it was by the gas tank
@quashaunsuitt8033 the canister itself is but the solenoid is in the engine bay
I gotta get the canister changed is there a video for that
Canister vent solenoid
How to change flashing light on the front right side light
Look up my headlight bumb replacement video, that will point you in the right dorection
Is there a reason why you're not taking the air flow tube off to make it easier to get to the part
You can if you want but some don't want to do any extra steps even of it makes the job "easier"
Can I just replace the connector on the 1.5L it’s the part that’s failing on mine
You can do what ever you want, this video pertains to the 2.0 ecoboost engines
Will this fix a p0456 code?
Yes! It should atleast, could be a few other things but this is BY FAR the most common cause
Thanks man gonna give it a shot tomorrow. My fiancés fusion is on the 4th one in 60k miles lmaooooo
Woooowww! Good luck!
How did you get that bottom piece on? I can’t get to it because of the alternator.
@@Christop775 it's tough, sometimes using a long pair of pliers or long screw driver helps
@@THEDriverMod_is it better that I remove the alternator? It’s almost like the new connector is too fat to fit in there. It’s kinda squareish vs circle on the old one.
@Christop775 you shouldn't need to but if you feel like it will make it easier, then go for it
So I had this issue about a year almost 2 years ago. Got it replaced at a shop for $530. This past month the engine light came on for the same issue. How long do the valves last on the 2015 ford fusion se 2.0L? About that 1.5 year to 2 years? Or would this be caused by a deeper issue?
My first one lasted 4 years, second one last about 2 years, current one is about 2.5 years now. Hit or miss I guess
@@THEDriverMod_ ty!
How do you remove the bottom connector on the Dorman replacement part? Previous owner did this once but it needs it again. So I have the Dorman replacement connected to the engine but the clips work differently than the original. I also have an identical Dorman replacement that I intend to replace the current one with. I've been fiddling with it to try and figure out that bottom clip but it's hard to understand without also having the male piece to fiddle with.
Does the grey tab pull out? Or do you just push the ears away from each other and pull the connector off?
Good video ,good explanation!thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks. Excellent view of the view of the EVAP valve and replacement. Got my 13 Titanium via auction, deficiencies included. 1st iindication was rpm limited to rough 4 to 4500 rpm. Replaced coils and basic plugs with Iridium TT plugs. Running performance 100%. Then, as you stated, came the idle roughness, then gas tank groans and finaly the P1450. Thx again.
No worries , glad I could help!
What do you do if after completion you still have the same issue?
Then that wasn't your issue or something isn't hooked up right. Or you got a bad part out of the box
Smaller hands and longer picks would have made this a lot less painful!. Thanks for the video!!!
Most have been able to get it done
just curious, if this part is faulty can you feel air blowing from the bottom connections ? i have a rough idle that gets worse when i turn the a/c on. the thing is my car doesnt show any engine light but when i connect it to my blue driver and see the live feed, purge valve monitor shows yellow indicator rather than a green checkmark
Might be carbon build up on the intake valves
913-430 doorman sells just the purge valve now
Will this cause it to lose power when driving or accelerating?
No
No
Simple push tab he says. The bottom one cost me a good gash :)
Smooth video, it was very helpful and provides a lot of information.
Thank you! Happy it was helpful and thanks for the positive feed back
Can you please tell me where did you buy the whole assembly? I called all auto parts stores around central and north jersey none of them have it and one Ford dealership only has solenoid.
Thank you in advance!
I get it off Amazon, I linked it in the video description!
Do they make a tool to remove those tabs?
They might, I cannot confirm that. I wouldn't be surprised if they do though
Im kind of glad you didn't edit all that stuff out. I'd rather go into it knowing its possibly going to be a pain in the azz haha.
Yea it can be alittle annoying and tedious, just stick to it
@@THEDriverMod_ Yea i got it. That lower one did kind of suck though! Thanks
@@THEDriverMod_ I also removed the intake pipe just to make the actual valve a little more accessible.
I have no chance since I only had to imagine what you were doing.
Which code it had,? Cause I have a p2196 doce
I don't recall off the top of my head, did I fail to mention it in the video?
Got this done at the dealer today...39$ part and it was $350 dollars for labor.....
Ouch..... no thank you
I changed the part and put the new one but the engine light is still on, do I have to delete the code with a scanner or can I disconnect the battery? can you help me please
You have to delete it, it may delete itself after driving for awhile
@@THEDriverMod_ It just happened to my 2015 titanium. I noticed hoses in the way when you were taking the old one out. Could you remove them, or would that cause more problems? Thanks for posting this, I have it saved when I'm ready to fix it.👍👍
I just don't like to mess with anything that I don't need to, whether it's coolant you would lose or messing around with more plastic/clips.
@@THEDriverMod_ I really don't either, I just thought I'd ask. Thanks again, be safe and have a great weekend!
Thanks! You too!
Replacement part name or number please. Gotta replace mine!
Link to the part is in the video description!🤙
162k miles and has only needed two purge valves?!?! If thats true, thats amazing. I know you go 12-14k miles with the Amsoil Signature Series, I am astonished. I guess the product delivers. I know ecoboost engines can be hit or miss in terms of long term reliability, that definitely speaks to the Amsoil product for sure!
Mine is 62k and I'm changing this little shthing😆 rn
Mine happened the first time at 75k
98k on mine ,16 fusion titanium and doing this for the first time.. thanks for the video hope all goes smoothly with my repair. Thanks again
Replaced this part. Started engine 3 times. Code came back. P0443
You gotta clear the fault with a code reader
I have a P0496 code. Couls replacing this help?
Yes it could!
@@THEDriverMod_ Alright thank you!
Hey I have a 2017 ford fusion we 1.5 liter eco boost I want to know if this part will fit my car it says it doesn’t when I put in my car info on Amazon
You have a different engine so the part I used in this video will not fit your car.
Can we get a oem part number ?
@@tristans9882 contact your local dealer for that.