One thing I recommend is to actually center the bar in the stem using a tape measure. Don't automatically assume that the delineation marks are centered. I have had a new bar that the marks in the center were off by a 1/4" to one side. New parts may not be perfect and any flaws missed during quality control inspection.
Yeah first thing I thought not a good idea to grease your threads when you're torquing down a carbon fiber bar lol, going to be way over torqued. Might as well send it home with a 1/2 impact
Love his tutorials! I wish he could put out a full master class on MTB builds and upgrades. The book is nice but his videos are much more helpful. There are several video teaching platforms that people pay monthly on and I suspect with support, his courses would draw a significant paying audience.
Hi Doddy, sometimes carbon bars come with a maximum torque setting not to exceed which may be lower than the torque value indicated on the stem. The difference is minimal but if you want a be spot on something else to look out for.
1/4” drive torque wrench $10 & bit set $5-10 at Harbor Freight Tools, still much cheaper than $60 for the PARK, and you’d have a full set of bits and a torque wrench you can actually use when wrenching in anything else besides bikes.
@@ryansantiago941 because many bike shop people wanna act like us folks, who to them, are “just riders” don’t know what we’re doing/talking about, etc. . Experienced it many times at bike shops in the states. Rude for absolutely no reason. Some of them are just the same as those things hanging on the wall behind them; tools.
I always have a 3-5mm spacer on top of my stem, that way my stem is at least flush, if not 1-3mm lower than the top of the steerer tube. That way I get 100% stem grip/interface..... just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
That spacer _(if not being held in place by the steerer tube)_ is prone to slipping and bending the ahead cap screw - so make sure it reaches down over the steerer tube.
@@geemail369 While I have never had that problem, I do like at least 1mm of steerer sticking over the stem to center the spacer and it's how I setup my last few forks/bikes.
@@mattgies That recess won't help -> a few years back a friend of mine found his ahead cap screw bent and (on) top spacer slipped off the stem after we had chucked half a dozen bikes into our transporter and shuttled a bit - another bike's bar must have knocked it off womewhere along the way.
Doddy, I swear you always seem to put out those videos at the right time! Got a chain recently and the next morning your video was How to fit a new chain... Now I get new handlebar/stem and next morning this video! I mean come on, you are reading people's mind, sir!
2:41 also good idea on seat posts, as you mentioned aluminium too, if a bike has been used for years, it can develop creak, seat tube and steerer tube, but I guess same can happen with stem eventually.
Instead of removing the steer tube when you file it, you can also just remove the wheel and then lay the bike flat, and collect the filings on a shop towel on the floor.
Hey Doddy, when would you use grease on a bolt vs. thread lock? I'm pretty sure I've ordered stems before that came with bolts that already had thread lock on them. Can you shed some light on this? Thanks and keep up the great vids!
I used 2 big spacers at the bottom and put my stem on and top cap but it still wobbled so I put a smaller spacer at the top and it’s fine, I know I could just cut it but it looks good anyway
Great vid but just a bit of question or perhaps criticism, but wouldn't greased threads lead to over torquing? I come from a different kind of mechanics and the only time we would torque a wet thread is if the manufacturer or application requires a thread sealant and we typically reduce the torque applied in those cases. Would you not just want a very clean and dry thread? Thank you for reading
Burrs and sharp edges are more likely to appear on lower end and cheap and cheerful (ebay) non-branded stems where corners will be cut to reduce costs so you'd be well advised to check for them. Now, I'm all for saving a bit of money if your budget won't stretch too far but be aware that you may need to do some pre-fit prep in order to make sure you don't have a nasty surprise waiting for you on that gnarly descent or when making a heavy landing!
Thank you for the great video. I noticed that not many options for carbon stems for mountian bikes. If you could let me know what might be availble. I am looking to use carbon where i can to help with vibration damping thank you
I purchased an RF Turbine R stem a short time ago. Unfortunately, even when following the assembly instructions (torque always respected), it is quite common for one of the 4 screws to loosen. Since it's always the same I have questions. I took everything apart and put it back together, respecting the tightening torques, but nothing worked. The screws being almost new there is still all the blue thread lock on them. The spacing at the bottom of the stem is the same on both sides, I have always been careful to tighten the screws evenly. Do you have any solutions to this problem?
I prefer to use metal bar end plugs cus they won't get ruined in one impact on asphalt or a tree or torn off by hitting a fence. I use Revgrips so they come with bar end plugs.
I noticed you talking about that gap at the top. I definitely don't have that. I have 70mm of total stack height available - 40mm stem, 5mm spacer on top of stem, and 10mm+10mm+5mm spacer under stem. This is how it was configured from the factory. Is this ok? Also, I wanted to drop the stem down by inverting the stock configuration of the spacers - would this be ok? 5mm spacer below stem, and 25mm total above stem. I just wanted to see if it made my bike fit better and more comfortable, but I don't want to wreck it either.
I was taught to torque w/o lube. Great video! Not talking carbon grip but grease on the bolt threads. I have been known to put just a wee bit of anti-seize on dissimilar metals.
What is the piece under the top cap called? Mine (new bike) is missing a piece and I don't know how to search for it. There is a play between the fork and the frame because this missing piece
It's usually called a stem spacer or a headset spacer - some riders call it one, some call it the other, but they're the same thing. If you have any problems, we always recommend getting in touch with the shop or brand you bought your bike from to check with them - it can help save some expensive problems in the future!
My enduro has 594 or so mm stack with a 458mm reach which isn't a lot for such a bike in size l. But it also has got a slacker seet tube angle at 73 degrees. Should I go from my 19mm rise bar to much more something around 40 or even more or somewhere around 30-25? Or should I go for 25 because of the slack seet tube angle? I'd definetely like more rise/stack. Should I try to offset the low stack? That's the main question. The rise is propably personal preference.
Excellent video. At the risk of sounding like a dumbass...what if I just want to change the handlebars and NOT the stem & crable? Do I just take off the front section of the crable, remove old bar, put the bar on then follow the procedure from 9.18? Anything else I need to do? Thanks in advance.
Doddy.. Im not an expert. BUT. The clamps on the bares. They are 100% together in the top. But there is a gap in the bottom. As far at i know you need to have the same gap in top and bottom so the screws are straight. When only one side is all the way in they are angled yes??
My question is what nm do you set the torque wrench for the the brake levers on a carbon bar and grips I’ve never had carbon bars on my mountain bike I want to buy hope stem and carbon bar.
is there any reason not to use Loctite 243 for example? I use it on stem bolts, and I found it to be helpful to keep the stem secure with rapid temperature changes, and hard riding. but with some stems it might not help much, I experienced this with Race Face Atlas, for some reason, all Loctite was gone, and bolts came loose in minutes after taking bike out in -10c, so handlebar spun, but it happen all year, I just had to check the stem, before, during and after rides, unless it was more stable temps, then the stem would not loosen as easily, but the issue was on the stem steerer tube clamping bolts too so the headset had to be tightened too. I had to check it often, even during rides, not an issue with Renthal Apex stem, which I've used on my previous bike, and I was so impressed I went for it just a shorter version. but I do add some grease, I add grease at the shim on the bolt, to prevent it getting stuck. I've tested the stem with and without Loctite, and yes it does make a big difference, if the stem already is great. But I don't know for sure what is the cause for this stem being so secure and the other not, maybe materials, clamp design, maybe both, maybe bolts too. with Loctite 243 the stem bolts hold on for months, tru rapid temp changes, hard riding, and when they finally come slightly loose, they would still be secure. and of course torque spec is important, some stems require higher torque than others.
Sounds like you're talking about headset bearings, like for uk its 42/52 is, 31.8mm and 35mm is the diameter for a headset stem clamp not the fork steerer
Hi @Wes Staff, You don't need to use grease on stem bolts as they are very unlikely to corrode or get stuck. Just ensure you put a little bit of standard bike grease on the stem where the handlebars sit. We hope this helps and safe riding!
😷 So for example, let’s say a company has always used a torque of 100 ft-lbs to install a bolt in a certain application, and let’s say that that 100 ft-lbs was spec’d for use with dry threads with no lubricant. Then one day, an operator says, “Hey I read this article that said thread lubricant is good for the bolted joint to reduce wear, so I’m going to try it.” But when they apply the lubricant and then use that same torque spec to tighten it down, they wonder why the threads got damaged or the bolt head broke off.
Is anyone able to give me some advice... recently bought a new bike and I seem to really struggle to get the front end up off the ground, I've tried a higher rise bar which has helped but it still seems tricky, could a 40mm reach stem instead of a 45mm stem help this
I made a manual station out of some old wood as I had the same problem. Practicing manuals gives you your balancing point and how much energy you have to put in to get the front up. I also shortened my stem to 40mm too.. hope that helps.
No, that actually helps with accurate reading. Threads are not surgically finished or cleaned from factory and can be additionally dirty from storage. This would cause under torquing most bolts.
Hello GMBN, I would love you to answer my question, I want to buy a hard tail mountain bike to do trials on it, so my question is what would you suggest modifying on my bike to be able to do some trial’s riding? By the way I already own a comp trial’s bike.
@@danimayb thank you for your reply but my question was not to do trails but (TRIALS) I want to by a hard tail mountain bike but I want to make sure I get one that would be the more suited for trials, so I was wondering if there where any suggestions on what bike to get that would probably have a frame more suited for trials, or specific settings I could do on the bike.
Hi GMBN! i just got a new Canyon Spectral 2022 AL 29'' in size XL. I am 1m95 aswell. and i feel like the bike is a bit long and the bar feels quite Far away. Also when i try to manual or do a Bunny hop i feel like its quite hard to get the weight to the back of the bike. What do you suggest , A Shorter Stem ? or a higher rise bar? the hight of the stem is at its highest position. I do not have that many problems with the front wheel comming up yet on Steep climbs. comming from a Giant anthem xl with about 475mm reach to the canyon with 506. The Giant anthem felt too nervous for me with its steep head angle and 27,5 wheels. Any Tips are welcome Cheers and ride safe !
I'm guessing Doddy doesn't show a 7050 aluminum Thomson riser bar or a 7000 series aluminum Thomson X4 stem or a 💰💰550.00-💰💰600.00🍁 Thomson 3/2.5 Titanium riser bar l😭l
Their job is to make videos, of course some will repeat. Plus the newer the video the more likely it is to be recommended. Could always just not watch it..
This bike was really easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
The bar forms an isosceles triangle with the front wheel. Means, if bar is centered in stem, two threads from bar ends to e.g. valve in rim, will have the same length. I just wrap the middle of a two meter thread around the valve, mark two equally long parts and when bar ends align with the markings, the thing is 90deg to the front wheel. Aligning by eye sight with suspension stanchions works too, as long as your nose is center over the stem 8-)
Just zip tie a level or any kind of straight edge to the front of your forks and eye the bars inline with it..that’s what I do and it’s perfect every time....
Yes they did and will continue to do so. It's a business not a charity. Google doesn't pay for ads on old videos. Sponsors require wide and continuous reach with high viewing and subscription numbers. So many people can't live with it and keeps commenting. Just don't watch instructional videos, there hasn't been much breakthrough in bicycle tech, wheels are still round 😋 and bars still have two grips 😂
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing I recommend is to actually center the bar in the stem using a tape measure. Don't automatically assume that the delineation marks are centered. I have had a new bar that the marks in the center were off by a 1/4" to one side. New parts may not be perfect and any flaws missed during quality control inspection.
Had some raceface atlas bars that were like that
In car mechanic world. It's wet threads that changes the torque value.
In any mechanic world it changes .
Yeah first thing I thought not a good idea to grease your threads when you're torquing down a carbon fiber bar lol, going to be way over torqued. Might as well send it home with a 1/2 impact
exactly what I was looking for at exactly the right time
They always seem to upload what I need when I need it!
@@lewiscliffe434 Right!
Same
Same, new wreckoning just arrived and im on the headset
Divine timing
Love his tutorials! I wish he could put out a full master class on MTB builds and upgrades. The book is nice but his videos are much more helpful. There are several video teaching platforms that people pay monthly on and I suspect with support, his courses would draw a significant paying audience.
Hi Doddy, sometimes carbon bars come with a maximum torque setting not to exceed which may be lower than the torque value indicated on the stem. The difference is minimal but if you want a be spot on something else to look out for.
Just bought my dream bike & may be changing the bars soon. This video was great for me. Thanks Doddy!
Glad to hear it!
@@gmbntech Thanks for the video. Please what's the size of the stem and the handle bar used in this video. Thanks
Needed this video Just jumped from a 650mm to a 780mm bar with new shorter headset very helpful 👌
1/4” drive torque wrench $10 & bit set $5-10 at Harbor Freight Tools, still much cheaper than $60 for the PARK, and you’d have a full set of bits and a torque wrench you can actually use when wrenching in anything else besides bikes.
@@ryansantiago941 because many bike shop people wanna act like us folks, who to them, are “just riders” don’t know what we’re doing/talking about, etc. . Experienced it many times at bike shops in the states. Rude for absolutely no reason. Some of them are just the same as those things hanging on the wall behind them; tools.
I always have a 3-5mm spacer on top of my stem, that way my stem is at least flush, if not 1-3mm lower than the top of the steerer tube. That way I get 100% stem grip/interface..... just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy.
That spacer _(if not being held in place by the steerer tube)_ is prone to slipping and bending the ahead cap screw - so make sure it reaches down over the steerer tube.
@@geemail369 While I have never had that problem, I do like at least 1mm of steerer sticking over the stem to center the spacer and it's how I setup my last few forks/bikes.
@@geemail369 Most headset top caps have a shallow protrusion that fits inside a spacer or stem to keep them both centered.
@@mattgies That recess won't help -> a few years back a friend of mine found his ahead cap screw bent and (on) top spacer slipped off the stem after we had chucked half a dozen bikes into our transporter and shuttled a bit - another bike's bar must have knocked it off womewhere along the way.
Doddy, I swear you always seem to put out those videos at the right time! Got a chain recently and the next morning your video was How to fit a new chain... Now I get new handlebar/stem and next morning this video! I mean come on, you are reading people's mind, sir!
Or the market lol
2:41 also good idea on seat posts, as you mentioned aluminium too, if a bike has been used for years, it can develop creak, seat tube and steerer tube, but I guess same can happen with stem eventually.
This guy looks like Jared from Drumeo ...love your channel
Daddy thanks for this. A lot of tips I had no clue about, and will apply them to my bar tomorrow
@gmbn please please do a video on the acros block lock headset disassembly that comes on canyons and yt's🙏🙏🙏
Instead of removing the steer tube when you file it, you can also just remove the wheel and then lay the bike flat, and collect the filings on a shop towel on the floor.
Hey Doddy, when would you use grease on a bolt vs. thread lock? I'm pretty sure I've ordered stems before that came with bolts that already had thread lock on them. Can you shed some light on this? Thanks and keep up the great vids!
I used 2 big spacers at the bottom and put my stem on and top cap but it still wobbled so I put a smaller spacer at the top and it’s fine, I know I could just cut it but it looks good anyway
Nice tutorial i am saving up for new back brake and handle bars
Great vid but just a bit of question or perhaps criticism, but wouldn't greased threads lead to over torquing? I come from a different kind of mechanics and the only time we would torque a wet thread is if the manufacturer or application requires a thread sealant and we typically reduce the torque applied in those cases. Would you not just want a very clean and dry thread? Thank you for reading
I was thinking the exact same thing when I heard him say it.
Very good. Thanks for this, subbed!
I also use carbon paste inside the clamp of the stem and the steerer tube.
Burrs and sharp edges are more likely to appear on lower end and cheap and cheerful (ebay) non-branded stems where corners will be cut to reduce costs so you'd be well advised to check for them.
Now, I'm all for saving a bit of money if your budget won't stretch too far but be aware that you may need to do some pre-fit prep in order to make sure you don't have a nasty surprise waiting for you on that gnarly descent or when making a heavy landing!
Would you recommend a small amount of grease between steerer tube and stem or none at all?
Thank you for the great video. I noticed that not many options for carbon stems for mountian bikes. If you could let me know what might be availble. I am looking to use carbon where i can to help with vibration damping
thank you
Another great one, a lot of important things were mentioned. great you went in depth on this.
Good demo, thanks
very methodical dod👍
I purchased an RF Turbine R stem a short time ago.
Unfortunately, even when following the assembly instructions (torque always respected), it is quite common for one of the 4 screws to loosen. Since it's always the same I have questions.
I took everything apart and put it back together, respecting the tightening torques, but nothing worked. The screws being almost new there is still all the blue thread lock on them. The spacing at the bottom of the stem is the same on both sides, I have always been careful to tighten the screws evenly.
Do you have any solutions to this problem?
Looks good and works great
So many good tips. Thanks Doddy
Happy to help!
I prefer to use metal bar end plugs cus they won't get ruined in one impact on asphalt or a tree or torn off by hitting a fence. I use Revgrips so they come with bar end plugs.
Just got new bars in, great timing. . Maybe stem next? We'll see..
Take attention because at least on Renthal carbon bars you cannot put any grease to attach the stem. Thanks
Hey just fixed my new stem and my fork seems to be rattling abit .. what am i doing wrong..
Should I use carbon grip on the brake clamps and shifter clamp and dropper post in addition to the stem/handlebar interface?
I noticed you talking about that gap at the top. I definitely don't have that. I have 70mm of total stack height available - 40mm stem, 5mm spacer on top of stem, and 10mm+10mm+5mm spacer under stem. This is how it was configured from the factory. Is this ok? Also, I wanted to drop the stem down by inverting the stock configuration of the spacers - would this be ok? 5mm spacer below stem, and 25mm total above stem. I just wanted to see if it made my bike fit better and more comfortable, but I don't want to wreck it either.
Can I put all spacers on the top of the stem?
This guy is a fountain of valuable information. Appreciate these vids a lot.
Can't seem to get the balance between slight play in headset and and avoiding over tightening the top cap
Dont be too streesed about that
Man knows his stuff
I was taught to torque w/o lube. Great video! Not talking carbon grip but grease on the bolt threads. I have been known to put just a wee bit of anti-seize on dissimilar metals.
This is actually an important point cause if torque value is for an unlubricated then you will over tighten. Can be almost as bad as a rusty thread.
So you don’t need spacers above the stem? Read that you do but not sure
Sometimes auto parts shops have discounted 1/4 inch drive torque wrenches.
What is the piece under the top cap called? Mine (new bike) is missing a piece and I don't know how to search for it. There is a play between the fork and the frame because this missing piece
It's usually called a stem spacer or a headset spacer - some riders call it one, some call it the other, but they're the same thing.
If you have any problems, we always recommend getting in touch with the shop or brand you bought your bike from to check with them - it can help save some expensive problems in the future!
I have one question,how i can find if my stem its compatible with my fork?cuz i dont have any info about the fork
My enduro has 594 or so mm stack with a 458mm reach which isn't a lot for such a bike in size l. But it also has got a slacker seet tube angle at 73 degrees. Should I go from my 19mm rise bar to much more something around 40 or even more or somewhere around 30-25? Or should I go for 25 because of the slack seet tube angle? I'd definetely like more rise/stack. Should I try to offset the low stack? That's the main question. The rise is propably personal preference.
What is the set up you use in this video for grips and plugs?
Excellent video. At the risk of sounding like a dumbass...what if I just want to change the handlebars and NOT the stem & crable? Do I just take off the front section of the crable, remove old bar, put the bar on then follow the procedure from 9.18? Anything else I need to do? Thanks in advance.
My brakes won't fit on the new bar and were very hard to get off the original bar I took the bot to tighten it right off too, is this common?
Thanks Daddy!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great video!
Is 5mm gap between top of steerer and top of stem too much? If I take out another 5mm spacer, top cap sits flush!
Doddy.. Im not an expert. BUT. The clamps on the bares. They are 100% together in the top. But there is a gap in the bottom. As far at i know you need to have the same gap in top and bottom so the screws are straight. When only one side is all the way in they are angled yes??
He addressed that issue in the vid at 9:40-10:15....this particular stem specs no gap at the top...cheers
Going back to the LBS because I'm an idiot and forgot to buy spacers for my new stem
Lubing bolts cause over torque set torque wrench a few under required specs the point of lubing bolts is to create a anti seize effect
how heigh do you recommend going with these stem adapters? i always feel I need a higher stem height
My stem isn’t flat there is a gap I don’t know why?
All torque settings are 'dry', unless specified 'wet'. Using lube when you shouldn't leads to overtightening.😉
Do you put any grease on the steerer tube before you put the new stem on?
Good video. I have learned 2 or 3 things.
I want that torque wrench.. Watching from Philippines
What kind of grease do I use? Is there a specific kind of like bike grease or will just about anything work
If your stem has a gap you will need a smaller spacer on top of the bigger ones should put you right
My question is what nm do you set the torque wrench for the the brake levers on a carbon bar and grips I’ve never had carbon bars on my mountain bike I want to buy hope stem and carbon bar.
You dont really need carbon bars bc they are way more brittle.And you have to be really caretul wen installing them
is there any reason not to use Loctite 243 for example? I use it on stem bolts, and I found it to be helpful to keep the stem secure with rapid temperature changes, and hard riding. but with some stems it might not help much, I experienced this with Race Face Atlas, for some reason, all Loctite was gone, and bolts came loose in minutes after taking bike out in -10c, so handlebar spun, but it happen all year, I just had to check the stem, before, during and after rides, unless it was more stable temps, then the stem would not loosen as easily, but the issue was on the stem steerer tube clamping bolts too so the headset had to be tightened too.
I had to check it often, even during rides, not an issue with Renthal Apex stem, which I've used on my previous bike, and I was so impressed I went for it just a shorter version.
but I do add some grease, I add grease at the shim on the bolt, to prevent it getting stuck. I've tested the stem with and without Loctite, and yes it does make a big difference, if the stem already is great.
But I don't know for sure what is the cause for this stem being so secure and the other not, maybe materials, clamp design, maybe both, maybe bolts too. with Loctite 243 the stem bolts hold on for months, tru rapid temp changes, hard riding, and when they finally come slightly loose, they would still be secure. and of course torque spec is important, some stems require higher torque than others.
I have a 26” bike but its smaller than other bikes why?
🤔can i get away with a 4mm pre-load gap for the headset🤔
COULD I USE A STEM LIKE THAT TO MOUNT BMX BARS ON MY MTN BIKE?
Does this come assembled?
Hi. What are the cable tidies used on this bike?
Do you need certain grips if you are using bar end plugs?
I want to go from 31.8 to 35mm stem but the steerer tube says 11:8 at top and lower steerer tube is 11:2 so do I get a 11:8 stem
Sounds like you're talking about headset bearings, like for uk its 42/52 is, 31.8mm and 35mm is the diameter for a headset stem clamp not the fork steerer
should I grease stem bolts on an aluminum stem? And with what grease?
Hi @Wes Staff, You don't need to use grease on stem bolts as they are very unlikely to corrode or get stuck. Just ensure you put a little bit of standard bike grease on the stem where the handlebars sit. We hope this helps and safe riding!
Grease should only be used on torqued bolts if specified otherwise you will over tighten the bolt.
Can I change my stem to dropbar
I'm an newbie
Handle bar to dropbar?
😷
So for example, let’s say a company has always used a torque of 100 ft-lbs to install a bolt in a certain application, and let’s say that that 100 ft-lbs was spec’d for use with dry threads with no lubricant. Then one day, an operator says, “Hey I read this article that said thread lubricant is good for the bolted joint to reduce wear, so I’m going to try it.”
But when they apply the lubricant and then use that same torque spec to tighten it down, they wonder why the threads got damaged or the bolt head broke off.
Well no cause the reccomended torque value is in perfect conditions. So if it says maxium 100lb it will be 100lb and grease will acctualy help.
Is anyone able to give me some advice... recently bought a new bike and I seem to really struggle to get the front end up off the ground, I've tried a higher rise bar which has helped but it still seems tricky, could a 40mm reach stem instead of a 45mm stem help this
I made a manual station out of some old wood as I had the same problem. Practicing manuals gives you your balancing point and how much energy you have to put in to get the front up. I also shortened my stem to 40mm too.. hope that helps.
Greasing the threads? Won’t that lead to an inaccurate torque reading?
No, that actually helps with accurate reading. Threads are not surgically finished or cleaned from factory and can be additionally dirty from storage. This would cause under torquing most bolts.
Hello GMBN, I would love you to answer my question, I want to buy a hard tail mountain bike to do trials on it, so my question is what would you suggest modifying on my bike to be able to do some trial’s riding? By the way I already own a comp trial’s bike.
@@danimayb thank you for your reply but my question was not to do trails but (TRIALS) I want to by a hard tail mountain bike but I want to make sure I get one that would be the more suited for trials, so I was wondering if there where any suggestions on what bike to get that would probably have a frame more suited for trials, or specific settings I could do on the bike.
why do some people recommend a spacer between the top cap and the stem and you did not?
Why does torque matter so much? It's a bicycle handlebar. Just tighten in a cross pattern until difficult to continue. Done.
true as bro
Definitely should have looked at this video up before I went at it 😳🤣
@GMBN I went from a 26 inch wheel bike to a 29 inch and it's terrifying. Any tips?
go faster
No thread lock??😮
Hi GMBN! i just got a new Canyon Spectral 2022 AL 29'' in size XL. I am 1m95 aswell. and i feel like the bike is a bit long and the bar feels quite Far away. Also when i try to manual or do a Bunny hop i feel like its quite hard to get the weight to the back of the bike. What do you suggest , A Shorter Stem ? or a higher rise bar? the hight of the stem is at its highest position. I do not have that many problems with the front wheel comming up yet on Steep climbs.
comming from a Giant anthem xl with about 475mm reach to the canyon with 506. The Giant anthem felt too nervous for me with its steep head angle and 27,5 wheels.
Any Tips are welcome
Cheers and ride safe !
I'm guessing Doddy doesn't show a 7050 aluminum Thomson riser bar or a 7000 series aluminum Thomson X4 stem or a 💰💰550.00-💰💰600.00🍁 Thomson 3/2.5 Titanium riser bar
l😭l
Any thoughts on "slider dropout" on Ti mtb frames(moots & devel project) pros & cons,....thanks #askgmbntech
Haven’t you already got this vid in the history ? Feels like regurge
Theres only so much you can do with a mtb for a channel
New year, new me
New year, new Dodde
Their job is to make videos, of course some will repeat. Plus the newer the video the more likely it is to be recommended. Could always just not watch it..
Wonder if Doddy is using carbon grease to hold his hair in place. 🤔
This bike was really easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Is it supose to have absolutely zero play?
What are your thoughts on stems that come with threadlock on the bolts? Use grease anyway? #askgmbntech
No dont
Worst part is lining up the stem with the wheel
The bar forms an isosceles triangle with the front wheel. Means, if bar is centered in stem, two threads from bar ends to e.g. valve in rim, will have the same length. I just wrap the middle of a two meter thread around the valve, mark two equally long parts and when bar ends align with the markings, the thing is 90deg to the front wheel. Aligning by eye sight with suspension stanchions works too, as long as your nose is center over the stem 8-)
Just zip tie a level or any kind of straight edge to the front of your forks and eye the bars inline with it..that’s what I do and it’s perfect every time....
What clips are they you are using to tidy your cables?
13:03 always reminds me of Cédric Gracia's crash and i cringe every time.
Sack up
Here I am waiting for my horizon stem and Doddy makes a video to taunt me. Damn this virus I’ve waited a month.
Nukeproof?
First I need to find a stem with Overdrive2 then do the other steps😂
Yea, Giant _really_ had a moment, pushing that stuff onto the market - just got me a 40mm one from reverse, now my cockpit is dialled!
Most probably if he can buy a carbon bars and stem. He can definitely buy a torque wrench 🤣
Haven’t you already done this topic multiple times?
Yes they did and will continue to do so. It's a business not a charity. Google doesn't pay for ads on old videos. Sponsors require wide and continuous reach with high viewing and subscription numbers. So many people can't live with it and keeps commenting. Just don't watch instructional videos, there hasn't been much breakthrough in bicycle tech, wheels are still round 😋 and bars still have two grips 😂
10:10
Ah yes someone is testing an rx580 in this video