A few things (from an owner with approx 200,000 self-serviced miles on Rocksters): 1 : When you reassemble the rocker-cover, make sure the seals (plug-tube and the main seal), and the sealing surfaces are DRY of all oil. This will prevent the seals weeping. 2 : When adjusting the valves, a good idea is to hold the adjusting screw in place with the allen key as you undo the lock nut - this prevents the adjustment screw spinning away from it's current position as the lock nut turns. This means you only ever have to make tiny movements of the allen key to make the required adjustment. Also - when you switch from one valve to the next, don't leave the lock nuts loose, re-tighten them again whenever you switch valves. - When you're happy with the inlets, check the exhausts, when you're happy with the exhausts, check the inlets again.... trust me on this.... 3 : Also always check the rocker end float (even if you don't adjust it, check it) - that's the gap UNDER the rocker lever. Adjustment is a bit more involved, but not that hard. 4 : NEVER use a large tool to tighten the rocker-cover bolts, always use the spindliest allen key you have, two fingers pressure, at about 1 inch from the bolt max. 8nm is naff all, and it's VERY easy to strip the thread in the cylinder head! 5 : A different way to rotate the engine is to remove the alternator belt cover (hey - you need to check the belt anyway on a service), then rotate the engine (plugs out) using a 16mm spanner on the belt pulley nut. Do NOT rotate this 'counter-clockwise' (you might undo the nut), only clockwise (righty-tighty). It's then easier to watch the valve movements as the engine turns.
I just bought a 2001 1150 and I was wondering if I could do this while changing the oil or if I should do it with the oil full or should I do it with the oil completely drained?
Rocker end float must always be the 1st thing to do and check the top not the bottom (both inlet and exhaust). to min spec it's quite imposible but 0.1 should be ok.
I especially like the straight to business approach w/o any 2 minute intro and non of those "please hit like and subscribe" BS. Well done and thank you!
Thank you very much for informative and clear presentation. Even for me as a guy more used to articles than mechanics it is clear and understandable. Please continue with series of technical repairs and adjustments since you have it both, mechanical skills and teaching/explaining skills. Thanx again.
This vid will help me maintain my R850R, so thank you. It puzzles me that the marks on the flywheel weren't mentioned, they were very helpful to me, though I also used the screwdriver trick. What I need help with is how to adjust the lash on the rocker arms. I haven't found a vid for that.
I wouldn't be putting a steel Phillips head screwdriver into the cylinder to touch the piston. Use something softer than the aluminum piston head. Like a wooden dowel, or plastic drink stir.
This makes it look nice and simple but what I miss is the fact that when tightening the exhaust or the inlet valve, the opposite will change itself mysteriously. Many times I can get the exhaust just right only to go back to find the inlet has changed and vice versa. It's a common phenomenon. In my view If you don't go back an recheck all the valves are 'balanced' you will end up with a buzzing vibrating engine.
I've just subscribed and thank goodness, you sir are like a breath of fresh air. You made a job i have dreaded so simple and i am now confident. I will watch all your videos, i have an 02 R1150 GS with 94000 miles. Thank you.
This is great, really informative and concisely done. Just the one thing, put the coil cover on in reverse. The two rubber bits on the end go in first and then you just click the front in to place!!
Excellent video. Thanks! And I like your title screen motto. I'm a big believer in "do it once and do it right", but sometimes I start to rush things for no reason, so I appreciate the reminder. I just took on a 2002 r1150rt in no-start condition so I think I may have my work cut out for me. Hope the flywheel isn't shot. But wow, what an amazingly easy valve adjustment process! I knew I liked these bikes for a reason...
Great video clearly stating everything in detail. My R 1100 RT/P needs this adjustment as well as some other maintenance. Would love to see more R 1100 videos. Greetings from Turkey (Asia Minor).
Sorry i disagree with your process/technique. When adjusting the valves on the bikes mentioned you MUST have 4 feeler gauges. 2 @ intake and 2 @ exhaust valves. Your method will alter the clearance of the other valves. You can "trust but verify" the proper method I've shared. Have a great day.
Gearwrench makes a nice 5/8 swivel socket extension that fits down the spark plug tunnel without taking the cover off. Part number 80546. I realize the covers have to come off for this service lol, but I figured I'd share anyway. The socket is magnet too
Nice video, thnaks a lot!. I have one question. I swapped a 1150gs twin-spark motor to my r1100gs. Is it possible to use all 4 spark plugs? because now i run the bike as a single spark and not as a twin-spark.
This might be a dumb question, but just so I'm clear. When you have the left cylinder at tdc you do the valve clearance on the opposite cylinder. I set the valve clearance on the same cylinder I set at TDC after the intake valve closes but before the exhaust valve opened with the piston at the top of its stroke. Was that incorrect, bike seems to be running okay.
both cylinders will be on TDC, one side will be on TDC overlap (both valves slightly open) and the other side will be on TDC compression. you always adjust on the side that's on TDC compression. then rotate the engine 360 degrees and adjust the other side.
Nice vídeo, man. I own a ‘97 R 1100 R ant the cylinders plastic caps seem loose and I’m afraid to loose them on the road. How could I have them tight in place ?
Hi just watched this. Prior to taking the heads off have you drained all the oil from the sump. If not how much oil do you lose when taking each side off.
Yo duDe, great video about adjusting the valves, I have a r1150r bmw 2004 and my right valve is making a ticking sound, the left valve does not make this noise, any idea how I can fix this? Please advice thanks brother.
The BMW Guy , should I do it myself or do you advice to go to a mechanic, the top dead center part I don’t really understand. Also if I just want to adjust the right cylinder are the steps in need to take lesser then what you did in this video?
I just bought a 2001 1150 and I was wondering if I could do this while changing the oil or if I should do it with the oil full or should I do it with the oil completely drained?
@@TheBMWGuy because i have seen it in a site specs for bmw r 1100 gs. and i just wondered if true, and just if not promoted then by bmw. maybe 1st gen vamos? but, if you say false ok. ur the expert. and very useful videos. keep the good work
It doesnt make sense. Top Dead on left then adjust right. Then top dead again on left then adjust left. Whats the difference? Why rotate the engine again?
One cylinder will be on top dead center compression the other cylinder will be on top dead center overlap when it’s on overlap both valves are open you need to adjust it when it’s on top dead center compression and both valves are closed
@@TheBMWGuy How does one determine whether the valves are closed or not at TDC compression? Is there absolutely no movement or rocker arm end play when the valves are closed, while the opposite side cylinder overlap have movement and rocker arm end play? It's been 13 years since I adjusted oil-head valves and, I cannot recall.
@@ijimmythekid6918 I should I outlined that clearly in the video. When the valves are at TDC overlap there will be ZERO movement, when they are on TDC compression they will move freely and you can make your adjustments.
you doing this not fin,the motor must by in cold conditions,way doing you this white others keys on the ring. doing this white 2x 0.15mm en 0.30mm. not normal you meeting white screw driver,you scrased the head. you most more learning sire.
How often do I need to adjust Valve clearance?
every 6,000 miles
@@TheBMWGuy the europian repair manual says every 20.000 Km. But every 6000 miles dont hurt too :)
A few things (from an owner with approx 200,000 self-serviced miles on Rocksters):
1 : When you reassemble the rocker-cover, make sure the seals (plug-tube and the main seal), and the sealing surfaces are DRY of all oil. This will prevent the seals weeping.
2 : When adjusting the valves, a good idea is to hold the adjusting screw in place with the allen key as you undo the lock nut - this prevents the adjustment screw spinning away from it's current position as the lock nut turns. This means you only ever have to make tiny movements of the allen key to make the required adjustment.
Also
- when you switch from one valve to the next, don't leave the lock nuts loose, re-tighten them again whenever you switch valves.
- When you're happy with the inlets, check the exhausts, when you're happy with the exhausts, check the inlets again.... trust me on this....
3 : Also always check the rocker end float (even if you don't adjust it, check it) - that's the gap UNDER the rocker lever. Adjustment is a bit more involved, but not that hard.
4 : NEVER use a large tool to tighten the rocker-cover bolts, always use the spindliest allen key you have, two fingers pressure, at about 1 inch from the bolt max. 8nm is naff all, and it's VERY easy to strip the thread in the cylinder head!
5 : A different way to rotate the engine is to remove the alternator belt cover (hey - you need to check the belt anyway on a service), then rotate the engine (plugs out) using a 16mm spanner on the belt pulley nut. Do NOT rotate this 'counter-clockwise' (you might undo the nut), only clockwise (righty-tighty). It's then easier to watch the valve movements as the engine turns.
I just bought a 2001 1150 and I was wondering if I could do this while changing the oil or if I should do it with the oil full or should I do it with the oil completely drained?
@@MrJavedb You must check the valves when engine is cold (room temperature), regardless of oil capacity.
Rocker end float must always be the 1st thing to do and check the top not the bottom (both inlet and exhaust). to min spec it's quite imposible but 0.1 should be ok.
I especially like the straight to business approach w/o any 2 minute intro and non of those "please hit like and subscribe" BS. Well done and thank you!
Thanks for your contributions to the community. Gonna buy some spark plugs and a valve tool from your site.
Excellent job! This WAS a procedure that could appear to be challenging, but you really made it seem doable!
Thank you very much for informative and clear presentation. Even for me as a guy more used to articles than mechanics it is clear and understandable. Please continue with series of technical repairs and adjustments since you have it both, mechanical skills and teaching/explaining skills. Thanx again.
This vid will help me maintain my R850R, so thank you. It puzzles me that the marks on the flywheel weren't mentioned, they were very helpful to me, though I also used the screwdriver trick.
What I need help with is how to adjust the lash on the rocker arms. I haven't found a vid for that.
I wouldn't be putting a steel Phillips head screwdriver into the cylinder to touch the piston. Use something softer than the aluminum piston head. Like a wooden dowel, or plastic drink stir.
This makes it look nice and simple but what I miss is the fact that when tightening the exhaust or the inlet valve, the opposite will change itself mysteriously. Many times I can get the exhaust just right only to go back to find the inlet has changed and vice versa. It's a common phenomenon. In my view If you don't go back an recheck all the valves are 'balanced' you will end up with a buzzing vibrating engine.
Exactly. Wheelstories has a better video showing how its really done
I've just subscribed and thank goodness, you sir are like a breath of fresh air. You made a job i have dreaded so simple and i am now confident. I will watch all your videos, i have an 02 R1150 GS with 94000 miles. Thank you.
This is great, really informative and concisely done. Just the one thing, put the coil cover on in reverse. The two rubber bits on the end go in first and then you just click the front in to place!!
Excellent video. Thanks! And I like your title screen motto. I'm a big believer in "do it once and do it right", but sometimes I start to rush things for no reason, so I appreciate the reminder. I just took on a 2002 r1150rt in no-start condition so I think I may have my work cut out for me. Hope the flywheel isn't shot. But wow, what an amazingly easy valve adjustment process! I knew I liked these bikes for a reason...
thanks!
That was very well done. Great description and explanation. All the information I was looking for. Thank you😂
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video clearly stating everything in detail. My R 1100 RT/P needs this adjustment as well as some other maintenance. Would love to see more R 1100 videos. Greetings from Turkey (Asia Minor).
suggestion: something like “top 10 issues you may run into in the middle of nowhere and how to solve them”. from bike not starting diagnosis to ...
Great idea!
Great video! I could really need a similarly easy to follow video on throttle adjustment ; cable slack and throttle balancing.
Yup! I’m editing it now.
i posted it
Sorry i disagree with your process/technique. When adjusting the valves on the bikes mentioned you MUST have 4 feeler gauges. 2 @ intake and 2 @ exhaust valves. Your method will alter the clearance of the other valves. You can "trust but verify" the proper method I've shared. Have a great day.
I have a K1600 Grand America, I would like to see more maintenance videos on the K1600, to include the Valve Adjustment Procedure.
I plan to, thanks for supporting my channel Paul!
Gearwrench makes a nice 5/8 swivel socket extension that fits down the spark plug tunnel without taking the cover off. Part number 80546. I realize the covers have to come off for this service lol, but I figured I'd share anyway. The socket is magnet too
My 2001 1150GS came with a spark plug cap removal tool in the tool kit. Was this standard or was it something the previous owner bought? 🤔
Great video, thank you!
How come you didn't put it in top dead center with the timing mark from the inspection hole?
i find this way easier, work smarter not harder
Does it not have TDC marker, behind a rubber seal on the engine case?
Great, thanks. My only thought is that most people watching this are not as comfortable find TDC as you are with your experience.
a zip tie or something "Soft" will also work
That's me, I had no idea what putting the screwdriver in there was doing or meant to feel.
Nice video, thnaks a lot!. I have one question. I swapped a 1150gs twin-spark motor to my r1100gs. Is it possible to use all 4 spark plugs? because now i run the bike as a single spark and not as a twin-spark.
This might be a dumb question, but just so I'm clear. When you have the left cylinder at tdc you do the valve clearance on the opposite cylinder. I set the valve clearance on the same cylinder I set at TDC after the intake valve closes but before the exhaust valve opened with the piston at the top of its stroke. Was that incorrect, bike seems to be running okay.
both cylinders will be on TDC, one side will be on TDC overlap (both valves slightly open) and the other side will be on TDC compression. you always adjust on the side that's on TDC compression. then rotate the engine 360 degrees and adjust the other side.
Nice vídeo, man. I own a ‘97 R 1100 R ant the cylinders plastic caps seem loose and I’m afraid to loose them on the road. How could I have them tight in place ?
they are all loose, dont worry
You're doing it wrong! Check all four valves simultaneously!!
fantastic
Which engine guard is this? Thanks in advance.
Value check / adjustment on a Camhead.
Yes, this will be coming as soon as I get one in
Hi just watched this. Prior to taking the heads off have you drained all the oil from the sump. If not how much oil do you lose when taking each side off.
I didn’t remove the heads and I didn’t drain the oil
Yo duDe, great video about adjusting the valves, I have a r1150r bmw 2004 and my right valve is making a ticking sound, the left valve does not make this noise, any idea how I can fix this? Please advice thanks brother.
adjust your valves 1st and if it still makes the noise look into your cam chain tensioner
The BMW Guy , should I do it myself or do you advice to go to a mechanic, the top dead center part I don’t really understand. Also if I just want to adjust the right cylinder are the steps in need to take lesser then what you did in this video?
Is it also necessary to take the spark plugs out?
@@aap6 no, but it makes it easier to find TDC and to crank over by hand
👍
Fantastic thank you
Most welcome
I just bought a 2001 1150 and I was wondering if I could do this while changing the oil or if I should do it with the oil full or should I do it with the oil completely drained?
The engine oil? That has no effect whatsoever with the abs
@@TheBMWGuy this valve adjustment job I mean
@@MrJavedb oops sorry, yeah you can do this with no oil, makes no difference.
@@TheBMWGuy thank you
Do you have a video on how to lube the splines on a 1150gs?
Not yet
Is it true that the first gen of bmw 4 valve boxer have some kind of early vvt? thanks
That would be false
@@TheBMWGuy because i have seen it in a site specs for bmw r 1100 gs. and i just wondered if true, and just if not promoted then by bmw. maybe 1st gen vamos? but, if you say false ok. ur the expert. and very useful videos. keep the good work
It doesnt make sense. Top Dead on left then adjust right. Then top dead again on left then adjust left. Whats the difference? Why rotate the engine again?
One cylinder will be on top dead center compression the other cylinder will be on top dead center overlap when it’s on overlap both valves are open you need to adjust it when it’s on top dead center compression and both valves are closed
@@TheBMWGuy How does one determine whether the valves are closed or not at TDC compression? Is there absolutely no movement or rocker arm end play when the valves are closed, while the opposite side cylinder overlap have movement and rocker arm end play? It's been 13 years since I adjusted oil-head valves and, I cannot recall.
@@ijimmythekid6918 I should I outlined that clearly in the video. When the valves are at TDC overlap there will be ZERO movement, when they are on TDC compression they will move freely and you can make your adjustments.
@@TheBMWGuy Thank you very much.
you doing this not fin,the motor must by in cold conditions,way doing you this white others keys on the ring.
doing this white 2x 0.15mm en 0.30mm. not normal you meeting white screw driver,you scrased the head. you most more learning sire.
tanx ....from North-Italy......!!!!