Your explanation of all the sensors is excellent. I am planning to make a weather station by using these sensors. Thank you for this nice and useful video.
VERY fun to watch as I have almost the exact same hardware as you, coincidentally. Watching you debounce the tipping bucket was a deja vu. I added a large funnel to the tipping bucket to increase its sensitivity. By adding the large funnel you collect a lot more rain and get a lot more tips, which can be calibrated out. I wish I had found your video before I tackled the project. I've added the link to this video to my own notes.
Glad to know I wasn't alone in the debounce adventure- a steep learning experience indeed! I think the key for handling the intensity of summer monsoons in my area is to design/create a bigger tipping bucket so that it can keep up with the flow.
Your explanation of all the sensors is excellent. My transmitter is faulty and I was hoping to use the sensors with an Arduino to get it working again. This is brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know
UPDATE 3/31/2020 - Video has been edited to remove erroneous comments associated with time delays in ISR functions since there is no time delay in the summarized sketch's ISR function. This is the reason the video jumps abruptly right before the discussion of Hall effect sensors, which is yet another alternative presented to eliminate issues with reed switch bounce. UPDATE 2/18/2020: At minute 23:36 and 25:55, I raise a concern about using a 15 millisecond delay in an interrupt function associated with the tipping bucket rain gage code. In retrospect, I observe that there is no delay in ISR function, rather I'm just evaluating elapsed time, so the concern is unwarranted. Bottom line is this: A software approach to filtering bounce complicates the code a little bit, but results in an easier circuit to build; whereas a hardware approach results in cleaner code, but requires a little more soldering up front (you pick). Personally, I prefer the hardware approach (either Hall-effect magnet or RC/Schmitt trigger) since this just "feels" like a more stable solution. Having said that, it's my gut feeling-- I am not an EE nor have I tested this in the field. (That's coming shortly - stay tuned!).
I thank you for your excellent job in analysing and try to figure out the reed switch in circuits. What has being mentioned bellow is the interference that RF poses for these sensitive circuits. Also should be considered is in case of thunder. Discharges among clouds or between cloud and earth poses a thread to chip circuits. That is a fact that most manufactures try to put circuits far from sensores bellow in a metalic box. When you have chips and circuits outside they are prime to pick up these signals even burn out chips. I have had some expirience with that. I don't have expirience especifically with hall effect component mounted in an outside set.
Thanks. I think shielded wiring can help mitigate that challenge a bit which is something I learned about after this video was posted. I appreciate your feedback!
Reed switches often produce a double operation when a magnet sweeps across them. It's much more than contact bounce - more like a dead spot in the middle. It can also make reeds difficult to use as limit switches for things that move. I have also found that some RF filtering is a good idea on sensor wiring to reduce the effects of strong RF signals being picked up.
Good to know. It's kind of odd that vendors won't put a few more cents into hall-effect sensors, although there is probably a reason for not doing so (aside from profit) that I'm not aware of. Thank you for this insight.
Thanks for putting this together. I have the micro mod version from sparkfun and finally finishing up coding it. So much detail and research. Awesome vid.
This is great information. Thank you for sharing your work. I have just acquired the same Argent hardware and am in the process of doing something similar with Heltec Cubecell LoRaWAN modules. This will no doubt save me significant time. Cheers!
Great work! FYI Water sensor is based on physics and limit of the sensor. At some read you just have to treat sensor as overfull. In addition you should acknowledge data errors and data lost. My general idea: collect data in database and process it later.
Thanks for sharing this script and circuit. I've used the Schmitt trigger version and it works well. Minor comment - the RC time constant from 10 uF and 10 k ohms is 0.1 sec. I've used 2.2 uF and 66 kOhms (0.15 TC) and it seems to work well.
@@ModestMaker Thank you very much - very useful indeed! I have a couple of questions: Can we do without the 40106N Schmitt trigger? I suspect Arduino GPIO pin would have an internal trigger. Also, 10uF and 10kOhm has 100ms TC, which is much larger than the software debounce constant of 15ms in your code. Such large TC may result in missing a tip during rapid fire. I did a test with Arduino nano 33 IoT with the 10uFx10KOhm setting, and it did miss some tips during rapid fire tests. I then used 1uF and 10kOhm (Arduino nano 33 internal pull up resistor). At this 10ms TC, it never missed any tip during rapid fire. I even tried with a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor, it seems worked fine with no double counting and no missed tip.
I agree this can probably be fine tuned a bit on the RC constant, and it sounds like you landed on a good combo with your tests. Having said that, I can’t imagine actual rain tips firing quicker than 100 ms (10 tips per second). Sorry- I am not aware of any internal triggers on GPIO pins. Thanks for your tests and feedback :)
I have been working on building my own solar powered hilltop weather station to report conditions for our paragliding club and I originally started work with a design for a Raspberry Pi 3B+. I soon realised that the Pi would use way too much power so I switched to using an ESP32 microcontroller. Like the Arduino the ESP32 uses much less power and with deep sleep it can run on a modest solar supply for an extended period. I am using the Argent wind sensors and everything is running on 3.3V. Having watched your video I also decided to deconstruct the Argent library and I have had to re-code it for a number of reasons. My ESP32 design runs on 3.3V and I use 4.7 Kohms in the voltage divider which I cribbed from the Pi project for better vind vane voltage separation at 3.3V. I also find the ADC on the ESP32 too noisy so I used an ADS1115 16-bit ADC which is much more accurate and stable. However, this results in different ADC numbers for the consenual averaging code. I found your spreadsheet very useful for this. I now have a very respectable rewrite of the library. I also had to fix the gust counting code in the library. There was no provision to re-set the gust counter. My gust counter now drops values over a minute old and works really well. I am not using the rain gauge as my MCU will sleep for 15 minutes, take readings, publish them and go to sleep for another 15 minutes (something of that order yet to be set in stone). I therefore don't collect rain data but I am using a BME 280 for temperature pressure and humidity readings which allows the system to predict expected cloud base which is very useful information for hill pilots. I'm therefore very grateful to Argent for the library and to you for your work with this project too. I'm happy to share my code if this helps.
Good background-- definitely interested in low power for remote deployments so I appreciate this feedback. That's very kind of you to offer your code and I have bookmarked this comment for when I return to this project. Thank you for your response and interest-- makes all the difference in keeping these projects going.
@RichardBarker Hi, I just wanted to say that I'm doing the same thing for our paragliding club. I'm using the Sparkfun ESP32 Wroom with the LoRa module on it to send the data by lorawan to a raspberry Pi with nodered. As you speak of solar panel, how did you manage to use battery and solar panel? My board has a battery connector, but I don't have no battery for it. I thought of a simpler solution using a simple USB Batterypack that is connected on one side to the ESP32 Board, and the other side can be connected to a PiJuice Solar Panel later on if I see the battery gets drained too fast. It might not be the cheapest solution - and this way I don't get a value for the battery charge - but I guess it would be the simplest solution. How did you solve this problem? @ModestMaker This Video is excellent for an electronics noob like me! Thank you very much!
@@arcticsnowsky hi and glad you found my thoughts useful. You may find that you use too much data for the Lorawan terms of service if you are sending regular readings. For this reason I plan to either use cellular data to upload to either my own server or a service such as Thingspeak. I have also decided to trial a LoRa point to point link to a gateway of my own that uploads to a WiFi hotspot and onto a server that way. The solar power use depends on having a low power drain when the ESP32 is asleep. If your board uses an AMS1117 regulator it will probably use around 15mA in deep sleep which is way too much. It's fine on the work bench but not in the field. The other issue is daylight hours in winter. For this reason you may want at least a 5W solar panel and maybe 10W. I'm still experimenting!
@@richardbarkeresq Without any knowledge - I have checked the technical datasheet of the WCH ch340C (installed on the sparkfun esp32 wroom lora module) - if I understood it correctly, it takes typically 7 up to 20mA in USB Operation mode but 0.1 in Operating Supply Current(USB Suspend). In the schematics there is an additional voltage regulator - however I don't find any names or data for it - and looking at the board I can't detect it with my eyes. Regarding the Lorawan I decided to use a simple lora connection instead, sending 8 bytes each 5 minutes / and 10 bytes each 10 minutes with sf7 (and maybe 250bw) should fit the plan. However I will have to adjust all these thougts when reality punches into my face - right now I'm just preparing all the things to experiment :)
@richardbarker8636 I have an esp32 and ADS1115. I am trying to read the wind vane but I am getting strange values. For example, I get minus values in some directions, but with the multimeter I get a positive voltage when testing. Can you please tell me how you read the wind vane with the ADS1115 and share your setup?
@@ModestMaker From what I figured, you can actually integrate very easily any arduino project into Home Assistant via ESPHome. ;) If you do this, please let me know.
EXCELLENT. thank you. I am about to replace my acuweather weather station that has failed in many ways but I think I will hack it for fun and see if I can make a better display. Thanks for the wonderful tips and beautiful explanation. I also live in Arizona and I wonder if a separate rain gauge that was specific for monsoon type rains with logic that would switch form the sensitive tip gauge when the rate was over, say .5inches per hour to the less sensitve gause that would work better for the mega rain storms.
Glad it helped! I think the best way to go for our monsoon type storms is to develop a weight-based gage that is insensitive to intensity (so you can use it year round.) I'm actually working on one right now as a project for my 3D-print class. Accuracy challenges of tipping buckets are summarized here ;) ruclips.net/video/iR331RDdPW4/видео.html
La conexión es igual como la que presente para el “tipping bucket rain gage” usando “pin 3” para registrar el contado de revoluciones. Espero que ayude ;)
Thank yo so much for the video. It is very informative. But I am wondering how it is known that a wind speed 2.4 km/s causes the switch to close once per second? Probably it depends from the diameter of the cup housing?
Based on my teardown, I recall there is only one switch closing per turn. Details for the associated formula copied from Argent are available here: ruclips.net/video/KHrTqdmYoAk/видео.html
Possible I guess, but not interested in messing around with mercury. I know you can buy these on eBay, but pretty nasty stuff. A Hall-effect magnet should eliminate the bounce- I just took apart another rain gage that uses one of these👍.
Interesting video. I also wonder how well the Argent tipping bucket works in the NE with slushy, freezing rain (assuming an unheated environment for the tipping bucket)
I don't think it's particular accurate for anything less than a gentle winter rain. Accuracy test is posted here showing challenges: ruclips.net/video/iR331RDdPW4/видео.html
There's no software involved outside of the program I wrote within the Arduino IDE. The link for the same is in the description of the video-- scroll down to chapter 21 in this link: modestmaker.com/arduino/part2.html - it's the anemometer sketch). For any screen output, that was done in Processing.
Any commercial connectors were cut off with wire ends tinned and soldered. I also like to use terminal blocks to make my setups more modular where I can 👍 - like here : ruclips.net/video/_55sEQ0vM38/видео.htmlsi=SH0uccNInk0ZndDU . See minute 2:36.
very interesting video. Thank you for such good explanations. I'm just starting simply with tipping rain sensor into Arduino. Do you have a wire diagram for how to link to arduino or simple explanation ( I don't know how to interpret the electrical diagram into breadboard and Arduino). With 2 wires from rain sensor, Im not sure how to connect 5v, gun and the pinOut 3 to the 2 wires....
Sure- I have a playlist that provides an introduction to Arduino that might help with more background. ruclips.net/p/PLqJ5k4cakypwMUFxZ1ckiiUfp1Ngf6o29 . I'll try to wire something simple this weekend and get back to you-- may already have it in another video.
Code should be easy enough to adapt, but for remote deployments, we need something that can speak to satellite or cellular modems. The Arduino IDE supports these well via existing libraries.
Sorry- I don't work with Raspberry Pi given the higher power requirements and the fact that I am deploying low-power remote deployments. I just posted this update that might help you with some ideas: ruclips.net/video/dn78n-dE8zI/видео.html .
You need to ensure that you have your R Pi set up for serial communication. This describes how to do that: www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/uart.md You then need to write a sketch (python will probably be ideal) to read the serial data assuming all is set up correctly. The next page will give you some ideas for running serial communication from Python: opensource.com/article/20/5/usb-port-raspberry-pi-python - hope this helps.
The wiring is the same as for the tipping bucket rain gage- both instruments use a reed switch that has to be filtered in hardware to remove noise (or you can try a Hall effect magnet).
Hi I know that the wind speed sensor rj11 cable is connected to the wind vane, which then the both of them share one rj11 cable. Can I know how do i wire the rj11 to the arduino uno? And the rain gauge is also a rj11 connection, can i know how do the wiring works as well? By the way, great video!
Strip the end of the RJ11 cable to expose the leads which you will attach to your Arduino. You can use a multimeter to figure out which leads are reading which sensor by checking continuity on the stripped ends. When set on continuity, your multimeter should buzz on the common ground and signal wire for each sensor while turning the sensors. Hope this helps.
hello! I've been trying to connect the ESP32 to the weather vane unsuccessfully, and I'd like to know if you can provide some guidance on the connection, please.
Question in this video there come two wires from the Hall sensor to breadboard but there or 3 contact point on a hall sensor, so must I connect ground to negatieve on the Arduino or breadboard and the signal and positieve like this Video time 32.04 ?
Hi! I'm trying to run this fantastic library in the new Arduino UNO r4 but Arduino IDE says me that this library doesn't run with Renesas processor. How could I do modifications in the code for that?
I see. I haven’t worked with that board, but I do have other videos that use different Wi-Fi boards for telemetry without issue. I am surprised this doesn’t work 🤔
Hey I've got an issue when trying to combine the code of anemometer and the rain gauge. When i move the anemometer it also counts up into my rain gauge. When i flip the rain gauge, it adds to the anemometer too. Do you have a code that combined these two sensors? The best thing would be if someone had a code where they had all 3 of the sensors in one code so I could look through it and see how you figured it out. It would really help me thank you.
In reviewing the code, I see both approaches rely on using an interrupt pin for the count, so if chances are you are using the same interrupt pin for both sensors. In that case, yes-- you will get counts for both regardless of which triggers. I'd have to take a look at the code and write a second function that doesn't rely on an interrupt for the anemometer. I can certainly add this to my list ;)
Thanks for your interest. You just need to orient your weather vane so that the 3.84 voltage reading is registered when the vane points north. When you do this, all the others should fall into place as summarized at minute 7:37.
@@ModestMaker thanks for the answer. I have another problem. Each day I would reset all the values but when I put rainamount like 0 then it continuous with the measurement of the past day. How could I reset de ws1.getRain() function? Thanks
Hello again!! I don't understand very well English, I don't know if you told in the video. Can you tell me how did you show the white arrow making circles in the screener?
@@MallorcaRaul Ahora si- ya entiendo. Eso es un "Processing" sketch. Si te fijas en esta pagina: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html en el capitulo 21, ahi se encuentra un "zip" archivo que se llama "chapter21code" la cual contiene un processing sketch que se llama /processing/windVaneDirection_v1 . Ese sketch se usa con este programa para realizar la gráfica : processing.org . "Processing" es muy parecido al IDE que se usa para programar a Arduino-- el Arduino IDE es basado en Processing. Espero que esto ayude.
um the schmitt trigger circuit along with filter, is still draining the battery during not rainy day. reed switch removes the drain. that is the reason why they picked reed switch, is battery economics, not the market prices. same problem of battery drain applies to hall effect sensor. on the anneometer, switch bounce is still problem increasing "counts". another problem, what if the cup happen to rest (stop moving) where magnet and reed switch is lined up giving false count. will need programming to counter this false reading.
Thanks for that insight. Fortunately, any battery drain on the Schmitt trigger hasn’t been an issue for the solar-powered field installation, but that’s good to know. I can’t imagine it’s very significant, but I have taken the system offline to replace the 2G modem with 4G and can check this out. Similarly, it would be interesting to check current draw on Hall effect sensor. As for reed switches in general, I agree they must be approached with caution. Thanks again- great feedback.
I used the argent code to test my anemometer but for some reason the gust speed doesn't reset, it just shows it maximum (ever) speed, rather than the max of recent values. Any ideas what's causing this?
I can't speak to the Argent code-- couldn't quite figure it out, but I have posted my own code developed from scratch if you want to give it a shot-- see chapter 21 code posted here: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html
Truly a fascinating and informative video. I do wonder if you are trying to reinvent the wheel by replacing the tipping bucket reed-switch with Hall effect i/c?
Thanks! The Hall Effect sensor helps eliminate the reed switch bounce thus eliminating need for the hardware filter required by the reed switch. Cheers.
im creating my own Weather Station, i know this video is 4 years old ,but i would probably use interrupts and put the MCU to sleep to conserve battery ,each time an interrupt is triggerd ,the MCU would wake up and do stuff and then go back to sleep im considering dropping the interrupts all together and waking up the MCU every 10 min or so to take all the mesurments and send to the server ,to further conserve battery ,do i really need to know what the wind speed is at this exact second ? no ....Weather data every 10 min is more then enough
Tell me how to get instead of degrees, i.e. a numerical letter indicating the direction of the wind, such as north or east. Nothing is indicated in your sketch, it works, but it only shows numbers. Total Rain: 0.00 Wind speed: 0.0 Gusting at: 0.0 Wind Direction: 90 (instead of numbers, direction for example NORTH) Total Rain: 0.00
0 = North, 90 = West, 180 = South, 270 = East (assuming you oriented the weather vane accordingly). The directions are shown in minute 7:30. You can use an array with a conditional as shown in minute 10:30 to echo back respective directions. Please see the sketch "windDir_CardinalConditional_rev1" for respective code that can be modified if needed. Note that that sketch is meant to work with Processing for displaying output, but can be modified to work with a Serial Terminal output.
Sure - assuming you are using my code, the red wire goes to your interrupt pin for your micro-controller, and the green wire goes to ground. For my micro controller, the interrupt pin is #3. The code is highlighted here: ruclips.net/video/KHrTqdmYoAk/видео.html
Good afternoon, you can order the dimensions of the boards, weather vane and anemometer, maybe someone has drawings ?. It may also be that someone has an electrical circuit of the anemometer and weather vane. Maybe someone has a board layout in the EasyEDA program. Thanks in advance for links and projects.
I don't have these details, but I do need to get smart on EasyEDA. Maybe a future project. Thanks for your suggestion. As a sidetone, this link has data sheets for the components that might help: www.argentdata.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29&osCsid=S7Y-vK6dkDVQlYrc7OqZt3
@@ModestMaker Good afternoon. I am interested in the dimensions, the vane and the anemometer, the dimensions of the insides. On your video there are some points, but you do not say in the video about the dimensions of the sensors, I want to build 3D models but there are no dimensions, can you make photos with the dimensions and put on disk in the cloud. I would be very grateful to you.
hi! im planning to use these sensors to do a remote station for outside city fields with a gsm module and sms alert when the user wants (this part of gsm is alredy done) and when start raining, dude i have a question can you help me because i want to send an automatic message when start raining and other when stop raining and what amount of water fall in this rainy period like an if(start raining){ send message "its raining"} and when it finish raining send ("its stops raining 34mm of water fall in this rainy session")
I recommend you look into Adafruit IO platform (io.adafruit.com/). I've managed to do something similar using the Particle IO platform (docs.particle.io/boron/) as outlined here using MQTT libraries and demos already published by Adafruit: ruclips.net/video/Rw-608Mu9xk/видео.html . I've written some documentation on how to do this for work - have been meaning to share it on my homepage: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html . Let me dig it up and see how difficult it would be to clean it up for a public audience (e.g. minus confidential information and passwords).
@@ModestMaker i really appreciate your reply sr you're so kind and helful im very intrested in do this proyect so i like to complete it im going to investigate more and i tell you whats going on if you can help me if i get stucked greetings!!
(1) Particle IO Boron is a 4G cellular modem that can send SMS texts to the Internet of Things: docs.particle.io/boron/. Here in the United States, it's the only cellular-enabled microncontroller I am aware of since the Feather FONA 2G modem is no longer supported by our US cellular networks. (2) Adafruit is a vendor of hardware, provider of open source software, and an amazing resource for tinkerers and inventors. They do a great job of documenting and supporting their hardware, and also provide a FREE Internet of Things (IOT) platform known as Adafruit IO: io.adafruit.com/ . (3) The particle Boron can be integrated with Adafruit IO to both host data on the internet, and send SMS texts to your phone when interrupts are called. This is demonstrated in this video, although I haven't had an opportunity to develop a proper tutorial yet: ruclips.net/video/Rw-608Mu9xk/видео.html . I do have written documentation on how to do this, but I need to sanitize it of usernames, passwords, and keys before I can make it public. I started doing the same this morning, but I need to check this carefully before I share it online which I plan to do shortly. Buena Suerta Facundo.
@@ModestMaker i really appreciate your attention and i very glad to spend time explaning this thing to me!! im from uruguay i alredy contact particle boron support and they recommend me to buy particle electron 2g/3g because this board is compatible with uruguay so! im going to buy 2 of this electron and im going to start building up my proyect and my objective is to make the station wireless to put in remote places like in countryside without wifi or bluethoot and provide to the customers live data with adafruit io. so i undersand it can work if it doesnt i will program only to send messages but my objetive is that the customer can see their station status on live. cheers
This particular setup does not include temperature and humidity (at least the unit my employer purchased didn’t), but Adafruit sells quality sensors that you can add to the setup and always includes libraries with excellent tutorials. www.adafruit.com .
Your explanation of all the sensors is excellent. I am planning to make a weather station by using these sensors.
Thank you for this nice and useful video.
You are welcome!
11:59 his code uses more memory actually but the advantages of his style is that is more readable and easier to make changes to. Both work, great job
VERY fun to watch as I have almost the exact same hardware as you, coincidentally. Watching you debounce the tipping bucket was a deja vu. I added a large funnel to the tipping bucket to increase its sensitivity. By adding the large funnel you collect a lot more rain and get a lot more tips, which can be calibrated out. I wish I had found your video before I tackled the project. I've added the link to this video to my own notes.
Glad to know I wasn't alone in the debounce adventure- a steep learning experience indeed! I think the key for handling the intensity of summer monsoons in my area is to design/create a bigger tipping bucket so that it can keep up with the flow.
The Part Of Denounce noise and Hardware Time Delay Was My Favourite Love You
Right on - glad you enjoyed it!
Your explanation of all the sensors is excellent. My transmitter is faulty and I was hoping to use the sensors with an Arduino to get it working again. This is brilliant! Exactly what I needed to know
UPDATE 3/31/2020 - Video has been edited to remove erroneous comments associated with time delays in ISR functions since there is no time delay in the summarized sketch's ISR function. This is the reason the video jumps abruptly right before the discussion of Hall effect sensors, which is yet another alternative presented to eliminate issues with reed switch bounce.
UPDATE 2/18/2020: At minute 23:36 and 25:55, I raise a concern about using a 15 millisecond delay in an interrupt function associated with the tipping bucket rain gage code. In retrospect, I observe that there is no delay in ISR function, rather I'm just evaluating elapsed time, so the concern is unwarranted. Bottom line is this: A software approach to filtering bounce complicates the code a little bit, but results in an easier circuit to build; whereas a hardware approach results in cleaner code, but requires a little more soldering up front (you pick). Personally, I prefer the hardware approach (either Hall-effect magnet or RC/Schmitt trigger) since this just "feels" like a more stable solution. Having said that, it's my gut feeling-- I am not an EE nor have I tested this in the field. (That's coming shortly - stay tuned!).
I thank you for your excellent job in analysing and try to figure out the reed switch in circuits. What has being mentioned bellow is the interference that RF poses for these sensitive circuits. Also should be considered is in case of thunder. Discharges among clouds or between cloud and earth poses a thread to chip circuits. That is a fact that most manufactures try to put circuits far from sensores bellow in a metalic box. When you have chips and circuits outside they are prime to pick up these signals even burn out chips. I have had some expirience with that. I don't have expirience especifically with hall effect component mounted in an outside set.
Thanks. I think shielded wiring can help mitigate that challenge a bit which is something I learned about after this video was posted. I appreciate your feedback!
Reed switches often produce a double operation when a magnet sweeps across them. It's much more than contact bounce - more like a dead spot in the middle. It can also make reeds difficult to use as limit switches for things that move.
I have also found that some RF filtering is a good idea on sensor wiring to reduce the effects of strong RF signals being picked up.
Good to know. It's kind of odd that vendors won't put a few more cents into hall-effect sensors, although there is probably a reason for not doing so (aside from profit) that I'm not aware of. Thank you for this insight.
Thanks for putting this together. I have the micro mod version from sparkfun and finally finishing up coding it. So much detail and research. Awesome vid.
Thanks for the feedback- if it helps a few folks, it was worth it!
This is great information. Thank you for sharing your work. I have just acquired the same Argent hardware and am in the process of doing something similar with Heltec Cubecell LoRaWAN modules. This will no doubt save me significant time. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful! That keeps me going.
Great work! FYI Water sensor is based on physics and limit of the sensor. At some read you just have to treat sensor as overfull. In addition you should acknowledge data errors and data lost.
My general idea: collect data in database and process it later.
Cool, thanks for sharing your ideas!
Thanks for sharing this script and circuit. I've used the Schmitt trigger version and it works well. Minor comment - the RC time constant from 10 uF and 10 k ohms is 0.1 sec. I've used 2.2 uF and 66 kOhms (0.15 TC) and it seems to work well.
You are correct! Thanks for that, and glad to know I've got company on the selection of the RC time constant approach.
@@ModestMaker Thank you very much - very useful indeed! I have a couple of questions:
Can we do without the 40106N Schmitt trigger? I suspect Arduino GPIO pin would have an internal trigger.
Also, 10uF and 10kOhm has 100ms TC, which is much larger than the software debounce constant of 15ms in your code. Such large TC may result in missing a tip during rapid fire.
I did a test with Arduino nano 33 IoT with the 10uFx10KOhm setting, and it did miss some tips during rapid fire tests. I then used 1uF and 10kOhm (Arduino nano 33 internal pull up resistor). At this 10ms TC, it never missed any tip during rapid fire. I even tried with a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor, it seems worked fine with no double counting and no missed tip.
I agree this can probably be fine tuned a bit on the RC constant, and it sounds like you landed on a good combo with your tests. Having said that, I can’t imagine actual rain tips firing quicker than 100 ms (10 tips per second). Sorry- I am not aware of any internal triggers on GPIO pins. Thanks for your tests and feedback :)
I have been working on building my own solar powered hilltop weather station to report conditions for our paragliding club and I originally started work with a design for a Raspberry Pi 3B+. I soon realised that the Pi would use way too much power so I switched to using an ESP32 microcontroller. Like the Arduino the ESP32 uses much less power and with deep sleep it can run on a modest solar supply for an extended period. I am using the Argent wind sensors and everything is running on 3.3V. Having watched your video I also decided to deconstruct the Argent library and I have had to re-code it for a number of reasons. My ESP32 design runs on 3.3V and I use 4.7 Kohms in the voltage divider which I cribbed from the Pi project for better vind vane voltage separation at 3.3V. I also find the ADC on the ESP32 too noisy so I used an ADS1115 16-bit ADC which is much more accurate and stable. However, this results in different ADC numbers for the consenual averaging code. I found your spreadsheet very useful for this. I now have a very respectable rewrite of the library. I also had to fix the gust counting code in the library. There was no provision to re-set the gust counter. My gust counter now drops values over a minute old and works really well. I am not using the rain gauge as my MCU will sleep for 15 minutes, take readings, publish them and go to sleep for another 15 minutes (something of that order yet to be set in stone). I therefore don't collect rain data but I am using a BME 280 for temperature pressure and humidity readings which allows the system to predict expected cloud base which is very useful information for hill pilots. I'm therefore very grateful to Argent for the library and to you for your work with this project too. I'm happy to share my code if this helps.
Good background-- definitely interested in low power for remote deployments so I appreciate this feedback. That's very kind of you to offer your code and I have bookmarked this comment for when I return to this project. Thank you for your response and interest-- makes all the difference in keeping these projects going.
@RichardBarker Hi, I just wanted to say that I'm doing the same thing for our paragliding club.
I'm using the Sparkfun ESP32 Wroom with the LoRa module on it to send the data by lorawan to a raspberry Pi with nodered.
As you speak of solar panel, how did you manage to use battery and solar panel?
My board has a battery connector, but I don't have no battery for it. I thought of a simpler solution using a simple USB Batterypack that is connected on one side to the ESP32 Board, and the other side can be connected to a PiJuice Solar Panel later on if I see the battery gets drained too fast. It might not be the cheapest solution - and this way I don't get a value for the battery charge - but I guess it would be the simplest solution. How did you solve this problem?
@ModestMaker This Video is excellent for an electronics noob like me! Thank you very much!
@@arcticsnowsky hi and glad you found my thoughts useful. You may find that you use too much data for the Lorawan terms of service if you are sending regular readings. For this reason I plan to either use cellular data to upload to either my own server or a service such as Thingspeak. I have also decided to trial a LoRa point to point link to a gateway of my own that uploads to a WiFi hotspot and onto a server that way. The solar power use depends on having a low power drain when the ESP32 is asleep. If your board uses an AMS1117 regulator it will probably use around 15mA in deep sleep which is way too much. It's fine on the work bench but not in the field. The other issue is daylight hours in winter. For this reason you may want at least a 5W solar panel and maybe 10W. I'm still experimenting!
@@richardbarkeresq Without any knowledge - I have checked the technical datasheet of the WCH ch340C (installed on the sparkfun esp32 wroom lora module) - if I understood it correctly, it takes typically 7 up to 20mA in USB Operation mode but 0.1 in Operating Supply Current(USB
Suspend). In the schematics there is an additional voltage regulator - however I don't find any names or data for it - and looking at the board I can't detect it with my eyes.
Regarding the Lorawan I decided to use a simple lora connection instead, sending 8 bytes each 5 minutes / and 10 bytes each 10 minutes with sf7 (and maybe 250bw) should fit the plan.
However I will have to adjust all these thougts when reality punches into my face - right now I'm just preparing all the things to experiment :)
@richardbarker8636 I have an esp32 and ADS1115. I am trying to read the wind vane but I am getting strange values. For example, I get minus values in some directions, but with the multimeter I get a positive voltage when testing. Can you please tell me how you read the wind vane with the ADS1115 and share your setup?
Absolutely excellent.
Answered all my questions about these sensors, thankyou!
Great to hear! Makes my day.
@@ModestMaker It will be by December/January project to get these working with ESPhome and Home Assistant.
Hello Modest Maker! I would like to thank sharing your knowledge with us. I'm building my own weather station and this video help me. Thank you.
Glad to help and hope it’s useful!
Great stuff! I'm working on this setup exactly and found your video. Thanks for the detailed explanation, it's sure to help me get it up and running.
Glad it helped!
This is an incredible video! Thank you very much!
Glad you liked it! I'm happy it's helpful.
you should definitely integrate this and other projects into Home Assistant. Yeap! Great work!
Thanks for the idea! So much to do, so little time. One more idea to keep me busy on a weekend. Cheers.
@@ModestMaker From what I figured, you can actually integrate very easily any arduino project into Home Assistant via ESPHome. ;) If you do this, please let me know.
EXCELLENT. thank you. I am about to replace my acuweather weather station that has failed in many ways but I think I will hack it for fun and see if I can make a better display. Thanks for the wonderful tips and beautiful explanation.
I also live in Arizona and I wonder if a separate rain gauge that was specific for monsoon type rains with logic that would switch form the sensitive tip gauge when the rate was over, say .5inches per hour to the less sensitve gause that would work better for the mega rain storms.
Glad it helped! I think the best way to go for our monsoon type storms is to develop a weight-based gage that is insensitive to intensity (so you can use it year round.) I'm actually working on one right now as a project for my 3D-print class. Accuracy challenges of tipping buckets are summarized here ;) ruclips.net/video/iR331RDdPW4/видео.html
OMG!!! I wish I found this sooner.
Glad it was helpful!
Best of Analyse and hacking ever seen thanks for RUclips Works
Thanks! Hope it was helpful. Hope to return to Arduino stuff shortly.
The tutorial I'm being waiting for...!
So glad it helped - thanks!
Excelente video. Gracias
Gracias! Espero un día poder traducir y publicar todo esto en Español. Saludos de Arizona.
Thanks for exelent info I go to setup my selfbild tipping bucket rain gauge with arduino Uno !
Excellent!
Thanks for this video, I love it
Glad you enjoyed it!
very well explained, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excelente información, me podria pasar la conexión del anemómetro por favor?, saludos!!!
La conexión es igual como la que presente para el “tipping bucket rain gage” usando “pin 3” para registrar el contado de revoluciones. Espero que ayude ;)
Thank yo so much for the video. It is very informative. But I am wondering how it is known that a wind speed 2.4 km/s causes the switch to close once per second? Probably it depends from the diameter of the cup housing?
Agreed- diameter gives you a distance the magnet must travel for one revolution, and the windspeed is calculated accordingly.
In the anemometer. There are two switch closures for each turn. Do you should divide by two the number of switch closures?
Based on my teardown, I recall there is only one switch closing per turn. Details for the associated formula copied from Argent are available here: ruclips.net/video/KHrTqdmYoAk/видео.html
Hi, have you considered a mercury tilt switch for the rain gauge, would this need debouncing in this application.Very good video,Thank You
Possible I guess, but not interested in messing around with mercury. I know you can buy these on eBay, but pretty nasty stuff. A Hall-effect magnet should eliminate the bounce- I just took apart another rain gage that uses one of these👍.
@@ModestMaker Hi, i agree with the dangers of mercury but they usually come in sealed glass or metal cans, thank you for your reply.
Interesting video. I also wonder how well the Argent tipping bucket works in the NE with slushy, freezing rain (assuming an unheated environment for the tipping bucket)
I don't think it's particular accurate for anything less than a gentle winter rain. Accuracy test is posted here showing challenges: ruclips.net/video/iR331RDdPW4/видео.html
AMAAAAAAAZING WORK !!
😊😊😊
What software did you use to demonstrate wind speed at 36:53?
There's no software involved outside of the program I wrote within the Arduino IDE. The link for the same is in the description of the video-- scroll down to chapter 21 in this link: modestmaker.com/arduino/part2.html - it's the anemometer sketch). For any screen output, that was done in Processing.
Excellent!
Glad you liked it!
I love this video, but how are you storing your data? SD card, spiffs, or to a server via PHP? Or just view real time data?
One tested way is via cellular telemetry to the IOT : ruclips.net/video/dn78n-dE8zI/видео.html&feature=share
hi, how did you cannected arduino to the rj45 connectores (wires in each hole ?)
Any commercial connectors were cut off with wire ends tinned and soldered. I also like to use terminal blocks to make my setups more modular where I can 👍 - like here : ruclips.net/video/_55sEQ0vM38/видео.htmlsi=SH0uccNInk0ZndDU . See minute 2:36.
very interesting video. Thank you for such good explanations. I'm just starting simply with tipping rain sensor into Arduino. Do you have a wire diagram for how to link to arduino or simple explanation ( I don't know how to interpret the electrical diagram into breadboard and Arduino). With 2 wires from rain sensor, Im not sure how to connect 5v, gun and the pinOut 3 to the 2 wires....
Sure- I have a playlist that provides an introduction to Arduino that might help with more background. ruclips.net/p/PLqJ5k4cakypwMUFxZ1ckiiUfp1Ngf6o29 . I'll try to wire something simple this weekend and get back to you-- may already have it in another video.
How would I go about connecting these weather sensors ( just the wind speed and wind direction) to an ESP32?
Sorry- I am not familiar with ESP32s, but would assume there are digital/analog inputs just like an Arduino, and then programmed accordingly.
Great project but I'd prefer to use an ESP 8266 due to it's lower power consumption.
Code should be easy enough to adapt, but for remote deployments, we need something that can speak to satellite or cellular modems. The Arduino IDE supports these well via existing libraries.
Hi Modest Maker i have bougth the same from Argent with the module ADS-WS1. How can i connect it and i want to read data with raspberry.
Thanks
Sorry- I don't work with Raspberry Pi given the higher power requirements and the fact that I am deploying low-power remote deployments. I just posted this update that might help you with some ideas: ruclips.net/video/dn78n-dE8zI/видео.html .
You need to ensure that you have your R Pi set up for serial communication. This describes how to do that: www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/uart.md
You then need to write a sketch (python will probably be ideal) to read the serial data assuming all is set up correctly. The next page will give you some ideas for running serial communication from Python: opensource.com/article/20/5/usb-port-raspberry-pi-python - hope this helps.
Do you have a fritzing diagram for your anemometer?
The wiring is the same as for the tipping bucket rain gage- both instruments use a reed switch that has to be filtered in hardware to remove noise (or you can try a Hall effect magnet).
Hi I know that the wind speed sensor rj11 cable is connected to the wind vane, which then the both of them share one rj11 cable. Can I know how do i wire the rj11 to the arduino uno? And the rain gauge is also a rj11 connection, can i know how do the wiring works as well? By the way, great video!
Strip the end of the RJ11 cable to expose the leads which you will attach to your Arduino. You can use a multimeter to figure out which leads are reading which sensor by checking continuity on the stripped ends. When set on continuity, your multimeter should buzz on the common ground and signal wire for each sensor while turning the sensors. Hope this helps.
@@ModestMaker thank you so much☺️
Queston: any place i can buy the pole separately from AliExpress?
You should be able to make something out of PVC pipe from your local hardware store.
hello!
I've been trying to connect the ESP32 to the weather vane unsuccessfully, and I'd like to know if you can provide some guidance on the connection, please.
I have not played much with ESP32s.
@@ModestMaker no problem, thank you : )
Hi, what is your simple software to program just an array's direction on black background at 11:25?
Scroll down to chapter 21 associated with this link: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html for a zip file with all the code.
Question in this video there come two wires from the Hall sensor to breadboard but there or 3 contact point on a hall sensor, so must I connect ground to negatieve on the Arduino or breadboard and the signal and positieve like this Video time 32.04 ?
I think the wiring you are looking for is at minute 26:03.
Hi! I'm trying to run this fantastic library in the new Arduino UNO r4 but Arduino IDE says me that this library doesn't run with Renesas processor. How could I do modifications in the code for that?
I wouldn’t know. For this kind of processing, you shouldn’t need a more advanced board. Do you have an older board you can use?
@ModestMaker yes but I'm using Arduino UNO R4 Wifi because I want to send the data to a mobile app vía internet and I want to use a lote of variables
I see. I haven’t worked with that board, but I do have other videos that use different Wi-Fi boards for telemetry without issue. I am surprised this doesn’t work 🤔
hello why when i connect wind speed to wind direction and connect this to arduino working but when i connect 5v arduino turns off
Hmmm.... I can't quite tell what you are doing without a diagram. Sorry I can't help.
where do attach the anemometer to the sparkfun board
Any GPIO pin should work - just make sure you match it accordingly in code.
Hey I've got an issue when trying to combine the code of anemometer and the rain gauge. When i move the anemometer it also counts up into my rain gauge. When i flip the rain gauge, it adds to the anemometer too. Do you have a code that combined these two sensors? The best thing would be if someone had a code where they had all 3 of the sensors in one code so I could look through it and see how you figured it out. It would really help me thank you.
In reviewing the code, I see both approaches rely on using an interrupt pin for the count, so if chances are you are using the same interrupt pin for both sensors. In that case, yes-- you will get counts for both regardless of which triggers. I'd have to take a look at the code and write a second function that doesn't rely on an interrupt for the anemometer. I can certainly add this to my list ;)
No- I only needed rainfall for my purposes so never combined.
@@ivkatadic8055 No sorry I don't have the come anymore.
Hi! Thanks for the video. How could I convert analog read from wind direction to: north, northeast, east, southeast... Thank you so much
Thanks for your interest. You just need to orient your weather vane so that the 3.84 voltage reading is registered when the vane points north. When you do this, all the others should fall into place as summarized at minute 7:37.
@@ModestMaker thanks for the answer. I have another problem. Each day I would reset all the values but when I put rainamount like 0 then it continuous with the measurement of the past day. How could I reset de ws1.getRain() function? Thanks
Hello again!! I don't understand very well English, I don't know if you told in the video. Can you tell me how did you show the white arrow making circles in the screener?
Pregunta en Espanol por favor.
@@ModestMaker hola. Puedes decirme cómo muestras la flecha que gira cuando mueves la veleta (wind vane) en la pantalla con el IDE de Arduino?
@@MallorcaRaul Ahora si- ya entiendo. Eso es un "Processing" sketch. Si te fijas en esta pagina: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html en el capitulo 21, ahi se encuentra un "zip" archivo que se llama "chapter21code" la cual contiene un processing sketch que se llama /processing/windVaneDirection_v1 . Ese sketch se usa con este programa para realizar la gráfica : processing.org . "Processing" es muy parecido al IDE que se usa para programar a Arduino-- el Arduino IDE es basado en Processing. Espero que esto ayude.
@@ModestMaker gracias. Esta tarde lo pruebo.
Need your help can't do the same in Esp32 wemos d1 R32, i change the values ADC Reading to 4095/3.3v still dons't work properly
What is it that doesn’t work? It’s kind of hard to debug off a comment in RUclips.
@@ModestMaker the readings the i'm getting are wrong for example i dont have south but it read SSE in both ways
Sounds like something isn’t quite right in the array- I would double check those values to see if they match what the spreadsheet is showing.
um the schmitt trigger circuit along with filter, is still draining the battery during not rainy day. reed switch removes the drain. that is the reason why they picked reed switch, is battery economics, not the market prices. same problem of battery drain applies to hall effect sensor.
on the anneometer, switch bounce is still problem increasing "counts". another problem, what if the cup happen to rest (stop moving) where magnet and reed switch is lined up giving false count. will need programming to counter this false reading.
Thanks for that insight. Fortunately, any battery drain on the Schmitt trigger hasn’t been an issue for the solar-powered field installation, but that’s good to know. I can’t imagine it’s very significant, but I have taken the system offline to replace the 2G modem with 4G and can check this out. Similarly, it would be interesting to check current draw on Hall effect sensor. As for reed switches in general, I agree they must be approached with caution. Thanks again- great feedback.
I used the argent code to test my anemometer but for some reason the gust speed doesn't reset, it just shows it maximum (ever) speed, rather than the max of recent values. Any ideas what's causing this?
I can't speak to the Argent code-- couldn't quite figure it out, but I have posted my own code developed from scratch if you want to give it a shot-- see chapter 21 code posted here:
www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html
it posible if the arduino is change in to nodeMCU esp8266 the code will be change too ?
Hmmm... I don't know much about that micro controller-- can't say positively.
Truly a fascinating and informative video.
I do wonder if you are trying to reinvent the wheel by replacing the tipping bucket reed-switch with Hall effect i/c?
Thanks! The Hall Effect sensor helps eliminate the reed switch bounce thus eliminating need for the hardware filter required by the reed switch. Cheers.
im creating my own Weather Station, i know this video is 4 years old ,but i would probably use interrupts and put the MCU to sleep to conserve battery ,each time an interrupt is triggerd ,the MCU would wake up and do stuff and then go back to sleep
im considering dropping the interrupts all together and waking up the MCU every 10 min or so to take all the mesurments and send to the server ,to further conserve battery ,do i really need to know what the wind speed is at this exact second ? no ....Weather data every 10 min is more then enough
Of course- especially in regards to wind speed and wind direction. There are algorithms to average that data properly as noted in the video.
Tell me how to get instead of degrees, i.e. a numerical letter indicating the direction of the wind, such as north or east. Nothing is indicated in your sketch, it works, but it only shows numbers.
Total Rain: 0.00
Wind speed: 0.0 Gusting at: 0.0
Wind Direction: 90 (instead of numbers, direction for example NORTH)
Total Rain: 0.00
0 = North, 90 = West, 180 = South, 270 = East (assuming you oriented the weather vane accordingly). The directions are shown in minute 7:30. You can use an array with a conditional as shown in minute 10:30 to echo back respective directions. Please see the sketch "windDir_CardinalConditional_rev1" for respective code that can be modified if needed. Note that that sketch is meant to work with Processing for displaying output, but can be modified to work with a Serial Terminal output.
hi , about anemometer , I don't know how to connect yellow wire and red wire to arduino. Can you help me ?
Sure - assuming you are using my code, the red wire goes to your interrupt pin for your micro-controller, and the green wire goes to ground. For my micro controller, the interrupt pin is #3. The code is highlighted here: ruclips.net/video/KHrTqdmYoAk/видео.html
@@ModestMaker thank you so much , I was able to handle it
where can i find the datasheets of all the sensors?
check Argent’s website, or this link on Sparkfun: cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/d/1/e/0/6/DS-15901-Weather_Meter.pdf
this one is better www.argentdata.com/files/80422_datasheet.pdf
Good afternoon, you can order the dimensions of the boards, weather vane and anemometer, maybe someone has drawings ?. It may also be that someone has an electrical circuit of the anemometer and weather vane. Maybe someone has a board layout in the EasyEDA program. Thanks in advance for links and projects.
I don't have these details, but I do need to get smart on EasyEDA. Maybe a future project. Thanks for your suggestion. As a sidetone, this link has data sheets for the components that might help: www.argentdata.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29&osCsid=S7Y-vK6dkDVQlYrc7OqZt3
@@ModestMaker Good afternoon. I am interested in the dimensions, the vane and the anemometer, the dimensions of the insides. On your video there are some points, but you do not say in the video about the dimensions of the sensors, I want to build 3D models but there are no dimensions, can you make photos with the dimensions and put on disk in the cloud. I would be very grateful to you.
Unfortunately, I am no longer in possession of this hardware since it was on loan from my former employer and has been returned.
thankyou!
Welcome!
hi! im planning to use these sensors to do a remote station for outside city fields with a gsm module and sms alert when the user wants (this part of gsm is alredy done) and when start raining, dude i have a question can you help me because i want to send an automatic message when start raining and other when stop raining and what amount of water fall in this rainy period like an if(start raining){ send message "its raining"} and when it finish raining send ("its stops raining 34mm of water fall in this rainy session")
I recommend you look into Adafruit IO platform (io.adafruit.com/). I've managed to do something similar using the Particle IO platform (docs.particle.io/boron/) as outlined here using MQTT libraries and demos already published by Adafruit: ruclips.net/video/Rw-608Mu9xk/видео.html . I've written some documentation on how to do this for work - have been meaning to share it on my homepage: www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html . Let me dig it up and see how difficult it would be to clean it up for a public audience (e.g. minus confidential information and passwords).
@@ModestMaker i really appreciate your reply sr you're so kind and helful im very intrested in do this proyect so i like to complete it im going to investigate more and i tell you whats going on if you can help me if i get stucked greetings!!
@@ModestMaker can u explain me very in surface what is particle io and adafruit thanks
(1) Particle IO Boron is a 4G cellular modem that can send SMS texts to the Internet of Things: docs.particle.io/boron/. Here in the United States, it's the only cellular-enabled microncontroller I am aware of since the Feather FONA 2G modem is no longer supported by our US cellular networks. (2) Adafruit is a vendor of hardware, provider of open source software, and an amazing resource for tinkerers and inventors. They do a great job of documenting and supporting their hardware, and also provide a FREE Internet of Things (IOT) platform known as Adafruit IO: io.adafruit.com/ . (3) The particle Boron can be integrated with Adafruit IO to both host data on the internet, and send SMS texts to your phone when interrupts are called. This is demonstrated in this video, although I haven't had an opportunity to develop a proper tutorial yet: ruclips.net/video/Rw-608Mu9xk/видео.html . I do have written documentation on how to do this, but I need to sanitize it of usernames, passwords, and keys before I can make it public. I started doing the same this morning, but I need to check this carefully before I share it online which I plan to do shortly. Buena Suerta Facundo.
@@ModestMaker i really appreciate your attention and i very glad to spend time explaning this thing to me!! im from uruguay i alredy contact particle boron support and they recommend me to buy particle electron 2g/3g because this board is compatible with uruguay so! im going to buy 2 of this electron and im going to start building up my proyect and my objective is to make the station wireless to put in remote places like in countryside without wifi or bluethoot and provide to the customers live data with adafruit io. so i undersand it can work if it doesnt i will program only to send messages but my objetive is that the customer can see their station status on live. cheers
By the way this weather station incluids temperature and humidity sensor. What about them ? thank you again.
This particular setup does not include temperature and humidity (at least the unit my employer purchased didn’t), but Adafruit sells quality sensors that you can add to the setup and always includes libraries with excellent tutorials. www.adafruit.com .
Salve all amministratore potrei ricevere tramite email tutti i componenti e il progetto con gli sketch?
www.biod101.com/arduino/part2.html
Выложи скетчи для обозрения ничего не получается сделать, по твоим ничего не работает как положено. Библиотеки устарели.
In the sketch "windDir_CardinalConditional_rev1", there are no libraries that can be outdated. Not sure what the problem is.