Gone through 2 tstats in 3 weeks. Done with em and was looking into doing this. Thanks for the vid. Eventually ill probably go for the 797 delete kit since it comes with bored block off plates to control flow to add heat/ac back. Only 30 bucks
Love your stuff man. In a world full of mopar content; it’s nice to have some different stuff coming. Been subscribed for awhile and enjoy when you drop something. I appreciate what you’re doing. All love.
I use the 192 thermostat but when you put low temp thermo in, you need a tune with adjusted fan temp for that thermostat and I recently upgraded my radiator to a 4 row radiator...my temp stay a little bit past the quarter line even at wide open doing 120 plus🤫
Get the miladon or mishimoto racing thermostat! Miladon have been backed up for a minute but if you get your hands on one you’ll be lucky bro! The rest are complete trash
RIPP have a 180 degree thermostat for $40 at Summit racing, i have a blown head gasket and i have to run a 180 degree thermostat, i cant run the OEM 203 degree thermostat because it will overheat
@tallguyinahemi I'm out in Fort Worth, crazy thing is I've been fighting it for 3 years lol, I just think it got worse this winter and may have cracked either the head more or perhaps the block, all I know was Bars Head Gasket Sealer took longer and more treatments to curate the head to be able to drive it without overheating issues, I have the v6 so I know replacing it is way cheaper then having the engine tore down and fixed, and then find out that oh its your block that's cracked and then boom head gasket repair was for not, right, so I got plans on replacing the motor before summer hits so that I can be over that crap lol
My advice here is; run with a 180 degree thermostat instead of no thermostat. Why? because you want to keep your radiator efficient and you want to stabilize the engine temperature. no thermostat will not help the longevity of the engine. Also, the oil NEEDS to b e at a certain temperature to be efficient. So the faster it gets to it's temperature the better for your engine. if you forget that simple thermal dynamics law, you will create situations with your engine where end to end the engine won't be the same temperature, and you could end up with some deformed areas because of unequal heat distribution. Oh and another important tip I would highly and super recommend; make sure there is zero bubble in your coolant system, like NO bubbles, nothing. The only way when you want to test and figure out your coolant, is to put your car in an upwards angle, open the coolant reservoir, let your car idle and open your heating up. Let the system bleed off air until there is nothing to say. Once you feel comfortable there, close the coolant reservoir. And respect the coolant reservoir levels. Running without a thermostat is NOT recommended on any of any make of any epoch, ever non no don't do it.
Thank you sir I love your channel btw it's all good @@tallguyinahemi. Here's what I use; "Mishimoto MMTS-JED-06L Racing Thermostat for Dodge Charger/Challenger HEMI". On top of that I drilled 3 little holes in a triangle pattern around the outside just so it can bleed a bit of hot coolant in the radiator before it opens, and if ever, bleed a few bubbles. It's the top most recommended thermostat. On my end, I still haven' t unlocked my pcm, so I can't control the temp my fans turn on. I would highly lower the temps on the radiator down to about 190-195f instead of 212+ f.
Here's a thermostat test; boil some water and leave the thermostats in the pot and put a thermometer made for cooling. Monitor the temperature of the water and look for the thermostat's opening temperature. The thermostat will open on boiling water (any make model), you will get surprised the first time you see it. I compared a few and the Mishimoto is the one that opens the widest, so when it opens it just like no thermostat, it flows really well.. Even with my 3 little holes I still get the same stable 185f, they're pretty awesome
Dont take it the wrong way, its not disrespect, just an opinion from a long time tech and wrench.... The T stat is there to maintain a minimum temp and faster warm up and doesn't inhibit max normal temp. Anymore than you get less airflow through your fully opened door window, just because it can be rolled up (closed) and slowly rolled all the way down (open). I won't bore with a long discussion on it. Also if anything cooling efficiency is reduced when removed... Keep in mind what the radiator does dissipates coolant heat. The T stat is a necessary point where the coolant is allowed some slow down time to actually dissipate the heat through the radiator even when fully open. Removing it you're accelerating the coolant flow too fast through the radiator and losing heat dissipation. Just rapidly dumping fast coolant through the radiator doesn't mean youre dissipating heat and actually increasing it. Take an orifice tube out of the AC system and let me know how well the AC cools. It doesn't. I honestly thought it was a tale long gone from the 80s when I would get overheats in the shop from guys who would do the same thing, thinking the same. They'd have an originally bad T stat and figured they'd just pull it, leave it out and couldn't figure out why it kept getting hot afterwards. From the sound of the original complaints it honestly sounds like air pockets that were still in the system. Just my 2 cents and stay safe on the road. 👍
Gone through 2 tstats in 3 weeks. Done with em and was looking into doing this. Thanks for the vid. Eventually ill probably go for the 797 delete kit since it comes with bored block off plates to control flow to add heat/ac back. Only 30 bucks
Love your stuff man. In a world full of mopar content; it’s nice to have some different stuff coming. Been subscribed for awhile and enjoy when you drop something. I appreciate what you’re doing. All love.
Thanks dude! I appreciate that more than you know 🙌🏼💯
Yessir straight 🔥 content bro represent homie
Bro go with the Mishimoto thermostat my car does not leave 185 no matter what 190 is the highest I ever seen but I was running very hard
I’ll check em out
Any idea if the mishimoto for the 5.7 challengers/chargers work on a Durango R/T?
I use the 192 thermostat but when you put low temp thermo in, you need a tune with adjusted fan temp for that thermostat and I recently upgraded my radiator to a 4 row radiator...my temp stay a little bit past the quarter line even at wide open doing 120 plus🤫
Been running no thermi for a while but i got no heat and a ice cold ac
Get the miladon or mishimoto racing thermostat! Miladon have been backed up for a minute but if you get your hands on one you’ll be lucky bro! The rest are complete trash
RIPP have a 180 degree thermostat for $40 at Summit racing, i have a blown head gasket and i have to run a 180 degree thermostat, i cant run the OEM 203 degree thermostat because it will overheat
Dang man, sorry to hear that. Where you located? That would be a simple fix.
@tallguyinahemi I'm out in Fort Worth, crazy thing is I've been fighting it for 3 years lol, I just think it got worse this winter and may have cracked either the head more or perhaps the block, all I know was Bars Head Gasket Sealer took longer and more treatments to curate the head to be able to drive it without overheating issues, I have the v6 so I know replacing it is way cheaper then having the engine tore down and fixed, and then find out that oh its your block that's cracked and then boom head gasket repair was for not, right, so I got plans on replacing the motor before summer hits so that I can be over that crap lol
@@NightCrawler810 no doubt man. That sounds like it sucks. Hopefully your new motor is healthy and ready to go!!
My advice here is; run with a 180 degree thermostat instead of no thermostat. Why? because you want to keep your radiator efficient and you want to stabilize the engine temperature. no thermostat will not help the longevity of the engine. Also, the oil NEEDS to b e at a certain temperature to be efficient. So the faster it gets to it's temperature the better for your engine. if you forget that simple thermal dynamics law, you will create situations with your engine where end to end the engine won't be the same temperature, and you could end up with some deformed areas because of unequal heat distribution. Oh and another important tip I would highly and super recommend; make sure there is zero bubble in your coolant system, like NO bubbles, nothing. The only way when you want to test and figure out your coolant, is to put your car in an upwards angle, open the coolant reservoir, let your car idle and open your heating up. Let the system bleed off air until there is nothing to say. Once you feel comfortable there, close the coolant reservoir. And respect the coolant reservoir levels. Running without a thermostat is NOT recommended on any of any make of any epoch, ever non no don't do it.
Great advice. I appreciate it. I’ll probably put on back in there eventually. I just gotta find a good brand that won’t go out after a few pulls
Thank you sir I love your channel btw it's all good @@tallguyinahemi. Here's what I use; "Mishimoto MMTS-JED-06L Racing Thermostat for Dodge Charger/Challenger HEMI". On top of that I drilled 3 little holes in a triangle pattern around the outside just so it can bleed a bit of hot coolant in the radiator before it opens, and if ever, bleed a few bubbles. It's the top most recommended thermostat. On my end, I still haven' t unlocked my pcm, so I can't control the temp my fans turn on. I would highly lower the temps on the radiator down to about 190-195f instead of 212+ f.
Here's a thermostat test; boil some water and leave the thermostats in the pot and put a thermometer made for cooling. Monitor the temperature of the water and look for the thermostat's opening temperature. The thermostat will open on boiling water (any make model), you will get surprised the first time you see it. I compared a few and the Mishimoto is the one that opens the widest, so when it opens it just like no thermostat, it flows really well.. Even with my 3 little holes I still get the same stable 185f, they're pretty awesome
Confusion about thermostats....
Hopefully others do research before just pulling out a t stat....
That’s why I said don’t do it unless you have to lol
My car gets drove once or twice a week if that. It would be different if I drove it every day
Dont take it the wrong way, its not disrespect, just an opinion from a long time tech and wrench.... The T stat is there to maintain a minimum temp and faster warm up and doesn't inhibit max normal temp. Anymore than you get less airflow through your fully opened door window, just because it can be rolled up (closed) and slowly rolled all the way down (open). I won't bore with a long discussion on it. Also if anything cooling efficiency is reduced when removed... Keep in mind what the radiator does dissipates coolant heat. The T stat is a necessary point where the coolant is allowed some slow down time to actually dissipate the heat through the radiator even when fully open. Removing it you're accelerating the coolant flow too fast through the radiator and losing heat dissipation. Just rapidly dumping fast coolant through the radiator doesn't mean youre dissipating heat and actually increasing it. Take an orifice tube out of the AC system and let me know how well the AC cools. It doesn't. I honestly thought it was a tale long gone from the 80s when I would get overheats in the shop from guys who would do the same thing, thinking the same. They'd have an originally bad T stat and figured they'd just pull it, leave it out and couldn't figure out why it kept getting hot afterwards.
From the sound of the original complaints it honestly sounds like air pockets that were still in the system.
Just my 2 cents and stay safe on the road. 👍
get a mr gasket part number 4367 180 deg .
I’ll check it out. Thanks man
@@tallguyinahemi its what i use temps stay 178 to 190 even at wot for most part .and its what we use in all the builds at the shop also .