Just done mine original discs pads 6 years old 41k miles. Yeah that drop links a pain. I jacked disc up and used a long 7mm hex and just got it out. Was careful not to cross thread on way in. Discs were seized solid on hub. Gave em a good crack to get em off. Took me nearly 2 bloody hours just to overhaul rear brakes! I like you greased sliders. Luckily my wind back set had the right adaptor
While you are doing the pads and discs, it is a good idea to take out the rubber sleeves (carefully so as not to split them, they may be stuck) from the caliper body that the slide pins go through, and clean up the hole in the caliper body. Over time these can fur up due to corrosion (you will see a lot of white powder), and this expands, making the sleeves pinch the slider pins. The sleeves themselves may need a bit of a clean also. For the hole in the caliper, a dremel drum sanding bit fits perfectly. Don't go crazy though, just enough to clean them up. To get the rubber sleeves out if they are stuck, gently push a flat blade screwdriver through the sides of the sleeve until it is free all round then pull out.
Cut down a 7mm Allen key to reach the slider pin obscured by the drop link/RARB. Use a shallow 13mm 3/8 socket with a 3/8th breaker to get to the calliper bolts easily 👍🏻
Still have your ST? I bought my Kona Blue metal flack '16 ST new in Jan. '16. Ordered the ST 1, figured I didn't need the extra fancy stuff, after all they all have the same engine and trans. Will be doing rear brakes for the first time tomorrow. Got an upgrade with drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Odd, my fronts are still good (for a little while.) usually they go first considering they do most of the work, but I'll be upgrading the fronts very soon. Car has only 53,800 miles now. I've been retired for awhile, so no daily driving to work and back racking up the miles.
I do not have it anymore, unfortunately. I do miss it. And yeah, the brakes seem to hold out quite a while on these. Of course, replacements never last as long.
@@Brendenowits ya bro, I definitely didn’t want to go buy some more bs that I’ll only use 3x in my life. Whereas I know for a fact i got a few needle noses laying around lol F it😂
Hi I've done all the rear brakes new disc and pads used the piston pusher on the piston all done and back on and my rear brakes don't work do they need bleeding
As long as you didn't open the line to let air in you should only need to pump the pedal before driving. I haven't run into the problem you have so I don't know for sure.
I put the same platinum car quest rotors and brake pads on my focus st and I can feel the road through the brake pedal now when I brake. Any idea what could be causing this? I changed out the rears
no, just clean the oil off of new rotors. They come with a thin layer to prevent rust. Surfacing is done to recycle old rotors if they are in the proper condition
Agreed the rear end links are directly in front of the slider bolts. If I remember correctly I was able to get the caliper unbolted enough to move it slightly out of the way to get the sliders out. Engineers am I right lol
Just done mine original discs pads 6 years old 41k miles.
Yeah that drop links a pain. I jacked disc up and used a long 7mm hex and just got it out. Was careful not to cross thread on way in. Discs were seized solid on hub. Gave em a good crack to get em off. Took me nearly 2 bloody hours just to overhaul rear brakes! I like you greased sliders. Luckily my wind back set had the right adaptor
While you are doing the pads and discs, it is a good idea to take out the rubber sleeves (carefully so as not to split them, they may be stuck) from the caliper body that the slide pins go through, and clean up the hole in the caliper body. Over time these can fur up due to corrosion (you will see a lot of white powder), and this expands, making the sleeves pinch the slider pins. The sleeves themselves may need a bit of a clean also. For the hole in the caliper, a dremel drum sanding bit fits perfectly. Don't go crazy though, just enough to clean them up. To get the rubber sleeves out if they are stuck, gently push a flat blade screwdriver through the sides of the sleeve until it is free all round then pull out.
Thank you for this video! The needle nose trick saved my ass.
Cut down a 7mm Allen key to reach the slider pin obscured by the drop link/RARB. Use a shallow 13mm 3/8 socket with a 3/8th breaker to get to the calliper bolts easily 👍🏻
Still have your ST?
I bought my Kona Blue metal flack '16 ST new in Jan. '16. Ordered the ST 1, figured I didn't need the extra fancy stuff, after all they all have the same engine and trans. Will be doing rear brakes for the first time tomorrow. Got an upgrade with drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Odd, my fronts are still good (for a little while.) usually they go first considering they do most of the work, but I'll be upgrading the fronts very soon. Car has only 53,800 miles now. I've been retired for awhile, so no daily driving to work and back racking up the miles.
I do not have it anymore, unfortunately. I do miss it. And yeah, the brakes seem to hold out quite a while on these. Of course, replacements never last as long.
Thank fuck. I’ve never changed brakes since I was like 14. I needed this video 😂
Pro tip with the needle nose pliers instead of brake kit for $30
If it works and saves a buck why not lol
@@Brendenowits ya bro, I definitely didn’t want to go buy some more bs that I’ll only use 3x in my life. Whereas I know for a fact i got a few needle noses laying around lol F it😂
Brake kit is worth it tho tbh bought one on amazon recently has a ton of heads for different cars
Needed to see the rear piston part, thanks!
The carquest pad retainer pins are pieces of shit. I'm impressed you were able to get it to fit on properly
First and I love watching these videos that are the best
This is perfect thanks man
Hi I've done all the rear brakes new disc and pads used the piston pusher on the piston all done and back on and my rear brakes don't work do they need bleeding
As long as you didn't open the line to let air in you should only need to pump the pedal before driving. I haven't run into the problem you have so I don't know for sure.
@@Brendenowits only thing I took off is the top screw under the bonnet where you put fluid in I will pump more tomorrow morning see what happens
I put the same platinum car quest rotors and brake pads on my focus st and I can feel the road through the brake pedal now when I brake. Any idea what could be causing this? I changed out the rears
I can tell ya the rotors are really cheap Chinese metal, that shit warped on me within 4 months, had to warrantee them twice
@@Brendenowits lol great, glad I got them
Rust behind and on the axle. Use 50/50 vinegar and water for rust removal
Do you need to get the rotors surfaced if you get new rotors?
no, just clean the oil off of new rotors. They come with a thin layer to prevent rust. Surfacing is done to recycle old rotors if they are in the proper condition
My e brake doesn’t work. Does that mean one of my rear calipers is seized?
it could be, I would look at the cable first and see if theres a break in it, then check the calipers to see if its actuating at all.
People steer to get clearance also put a couple of nuts on the studs and use a rubber mallet to hit the disc and i should come off
@SuperSteelers steer to get more room and if the disc does not come off hit it with a mallet and it should come off
@@jordanwilcox4723these are rear brakes
Thanks bro!
Thanks 🇺🇸
Mine were bolt style not Torx bit
The emergency brake cable comes off of the caliper rather easily.
No need to take it off tho.
Just did my rears. Worst design for taking the bloody calipers off. No room.
Agreed the rear end links are directly in front of the slider bolts. If I remember correctly I was able to get the caliper unbolted enough to move it slightly out of the way to get the sliders out. Engineers am I right lol
That is one rusty looking Sanitary Towel they should have been changed long ago 🤪