Nice job! I use plywood for the floor. OSB is cheaper but I think top quality construction grade 3/4" ply is better for floors. I'm just about to build a small cabin, I'm going to try these new plastic adjustable screw risers under the floor. It solves 3 issues. 1) damp break between joists and the ground. 2) easy levelling 3) no concrete! Your frame is excellent! 😁
When I was young I worked for an older woman who had me put rolled roofing on her garage floor. It kept the garage amazingly dry and clean. She even parked her car in there. I would not hesitate to put that under a shed.(instead of landscape fabric.) I am enjoying your videos. Also like you plywood handle!
Re-watching (as I often do with all your content!) after a few hours of gardening and I never thought I would say something like this, but... I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!! It's such a nice dark brown and looks so healthy compared to the garbage soil where I live! The ground I was working in was still wet from a recent rain and the dirt was not mud, but much closer to actual wet clay. It's such a pain not only to work with but also because few plants are willing to tolerate it and still grow here.
Great video Keith and explaining all the process of doing the floor. I wouldn't worry too much about doing the Bitumen Paint followed with that roll over the top, just think that's it's double the safety of the edges rotting away. Looking forward to the next step in this shed build. Stay Safe, Barry (Wirral, ENG)
I was following you for a few weeks, to be honest cause I will give a good sanding and varnish to my closet and to bedroom furniture. Think I learned from you to love wood, and give the special care it diservs. Sometimes your voice in your vídeos sound tired, cause you work really hard. I really like your details explaining the process, and also your honesty. Hope my little proyect end well as all of yours.
Looking good Keith. Looks like a great garden. Usually when setting floor joists start with the centre of one at 2.4m or eight foot depending on material, and work back over at 400 or 600mm centres. (16" or 24" if boards are imperial) this way minimises waste and cutting time.
you only need dpc where the wood comes in contact with the flooring, such as on the end grain or where the slabs are. Also the joists should be 400 on center, that way the sheeting would've landed half on a joist, not that it matters though. Great work!
Hi Keith, I noticed you had a field running behind your back fence that space you are leaving between rafters will make a lovely run for mice or even rabbits depending on what is in the field. We had rats under ours and my dad decided that he would flush the out with water, so he got the garden hose to and pushed it down the hole as far as he could and turned the tap on. I was banished to my bedroom as I had wanted to capture them and keep them as pets, My older brother was told to stand by the hole and hit anything that came out with a shovel I was watching from the bedroom and suddenly water started to spout in our garden, next door both ways and the old age bungalows behind us, you could hear me laughing until my dad got to my bedroom and stopped the laughter.
Me too - we live in a rural area and we and neighbours have had rat problems this year. Years ago when the kids kept rabbits, a rat made a home under the hutch, chewed its way in. Wish I'd put mesh under the compost bin, had one in there too !
I had a rat or something die under my shed last summer. It stank for a few days but quickly that went away. Now I let my neighbour put his ferrets under occasionally and I havnt noticed any more rat activity.
I had a rat in our workshop this year, I managed to find a huge hole under my workbench in the corner of the floor so I shoved a concrete slab over the top and since then I haven't seen any further trace of it around.
Very detailed cause i thought it would be easier keeping the paving slabs i would never thought of ventilation and all those details . Nice video . !!!!!!
Hi Mandy do you mean without the long timbers on the base? They were mainly just there to protect the end grain of the shorter lengths, so to get around that I used dpc to protect them instead. Hopefully that should work...👍
Hello, here in Brazil we call this drier mixture of cement and sand "farofa" (in the video, at 05:05), this mixture is drier. Ah yes, "farofa" is a mixture of cassava (manioc) flour, eggs and onions fried in oil that tastes unexpectedly pleasant, some recipes add sausage, too. Generally it is served drier, but there are versions that are moist. Sorry for the Translator! Hugs, Alexander.
Really looking forward to these vids Keith as your original shed build back in the day is what got me hooked to your channel. I'm really surprised you used OSB for the floor. My own thoughts it that it would never last as long as alternatives like marine ply or standard ply. You are going to have a problem with rodents under it as your house backs off onto a fairly large field there, so mice and rats are common enough there I'd say. Might be worth adding treated boards to the sides to close it off on the base. Would only be a few quid extra in the end. Would be worth placing a few rat bait blocks under there too. Our own tool shed backs off onto a farmer's field here and we have had rats come clean through double sheets of floor ply to get at lawn seed so they can be very destructive! Looking forward to the rest of this shed build series! Keep up the good work mate!
You use the same range of 18V stuff as me! I love my Hitachi (Hikoki) tools - Impact driver is my favourite tool, followed by the circular saw. I've recently started with Makita too, simply for their much better range of tools. Blower and whipper-snipper (string trimmer) so far.
I really like how you try to cut the expenses as im functioning in the same way. Peter Parfitt made a shed recently and i would never be able to pull something like that off. Cutting corners, learning in the process and then fix with new solutions when problems arise. The OSB is risky as i used it for a shelf in my shed. That piece was i think 2,5 meters by 90 cm laying on top on some 4,5x7cm on the sides. No support in the middle. In the summer it was stiff but during winter and no real ventilation in the shed it bowed down quite a bit. Now the bow has decreased but i must add some 4,5x7 supporting it in the middle. The shelf works for what it's supposed to do though. I store some junk up there and it hasn't fallen apart yet.. :)
No I think it was smart to paint it it's just extra protection even though it's not design perfectly for outside at least you're protecting it twice as much
I wouldn't stress overly about the osb floor. I've got a cheap shed I bought in 2005. It was originally sat on some stacked up concrete blocks to raise it off the floor, but they have sunk into the ground over the years so it's now just sat on the floor. Been there 15 years with no protection from.the weather at all, and its still fine. I also made the sides and floor of my trailer from osb. Again, no protection. It lives outside and is generally full of firewood, so doesn't dry out overly fast when it does get wet. The floor lasted 6 years before I finally put my foot through it. The sides are still going strong and they've been on there just over 10 years now
Here in the States lots of builders use various tapes. I prefer acrylic tapes personally. The Huber Engineered Woods company makes a joint and flashing tape that is rated for use with OSB sheathing, called Zip tape used with their Zip sheathing. Comes in various lengths and widths too. Not sure how it would work out cost wise compared to what you have done but with the steps you've taken in the vid, as long as your siding overlaps your OSB edge your floor will probably be fine. If something does go wrong down the line your will certainly be their to repair it and that's just more content!
Only came across your channel a couple of days ago and watched the series of videos on you were building the workshop shed and its extension. I subscribed after watching them. It's great how you go through your different ideas and options available for the base of shed and then your rational for the option you went with. I will have the same issues with transporting concrete and stone when i go about building my own shed. Concrete is better but not feasible in some situations. Looking forward to updates
Hi, you can never have too much waterproofing so that is okay, I do not like using wood chip and prefer plywood although that would increase the cost substantially. Looks as if you are going to have a grate shed in the end, looking forward to seeing you finish it off. Good luck with the British weather it seems to always rain if you want to get something done outside.
Yes!! The pineapple shorts are back! Life is good again! Wait a minute!!!! Pineapple shirts and a dirt moustache?! What is this crazy world we are living in?
I guess we all do it differently. I had to build a 6" thick concrete base because I have 2 lathes to go in, (one is in already, the other needs moving now I have welded up a stand) so I then put a course of concrete blocks in on top and DPC then the woodwork.
Hi keith, a tip for laying a slab in the future... make up your stiff mix of sand and cement and lay it out and compact. Get a piece of say 4" x 1" or any scrap timber. measure the thickness of the slab and cut a long notch out of the timber to a millemeter or 2 less than that thickness then slide the notched bit over the slab beside to create a level base for the slab you're laying, hope this makes sense?
Before I built my new shed, I saw a very compelling video on fitting (small) gutters so that water isn't constantly attacking the base of your shed. It may be a worthwhile addition if you plan to be there a long time.
I paint the edges of particle boards and plywood that I want to waterproof, with waterproof PVA glue. It soaks in well if you stand the board on end, and dries rock hard.
Apart from making it wider thats exactly how i did the floor on my shed . Its sitting on the patio so its solid and has space for lots of air to get under it to dry! i However used ply, i did that as it was a small shed so not too expensive, i am also a bit ..... fat , so did not want to fall through the OSB. They type of dry mix you made for your slab is kind of similar to how a dam is created , they make very very dry mix and then roller compact it, its cheap and it works more like accident concrete so no reinforcement needed.
I used sleepers on a load of heavy stone slabs and that's held up okay. I didn't have a pot to pee in at the time and couldn't afford concrete either and access was also an issue. I bought my shed on eBay it was a garden office I had to dismantle it and transport it. Then build it in the middle of winter and keep it all under tarp between time off. Got it done but new years but took me 4 months ths to save up for an electrician to wire it! If I ever get round to making a youtube channel ill make a video about it. Its a bit of a bodge job so atleast it goes with my general approach to life and woodworking!
Dylan your cat is the answer to keeping rats away. Not being a rat catcher himself but by the scent, i'll explain at the end for you. I live on a farm and you'll never get away from a rat problem with a shed and a raised floor, even if you do put mesh everywhere. It's an ideal place for a rat, safe, dry and warm etc. If a rat want's to get in somewhere it will, even through thin concrete. They will squeeze through a tiny space, less than an inch hole due to the way they are built, seen it with the pet rats my son has had over the years, and how far they can jump will amaze people. Way how we deal with it down here in West Wales to stop them eating away at the animals feeds is by keeping them away by smell. We have all our cats pee in cat trays with either cat pellets you can buy or we just put sawdust in there. We then spread it around the feed areas, or the shed in your case and the rats will not come near. Rats hate the smell of cat pee and will stay away, they also don't like mint, not the Tesco bought pot of mint but the plant. Wild rats are a horrible problem but the pet ones are amazing. When you see a dog with a pet rat fast asleep under his chin and a cat doing the clawing thing on the dog and not even bothered about the rat, makes you wonder what the hell is going on.
Thank you for another great video Keith. Watch out with your overarm sheet material carrier though- I had one (gorilla gripper I think?) and it snapped mid-carry. The sheet hit the deck but my arm carried upwards and I ended up boxing myself square in the ear. I couldn’t continue my project for 5 minutes for laughing...also was a bit painful!! I made an underarm carrier out of plywood shortly after that is much more comfortable.
Great video as always Keith, but I think you should've bitten the bullet and sealed the base surface with bitumen paint. You've still got the joints between the panels and although you might not get rain ingress, you'll still get variations in humidity from winter to summer and periods of heavy frost, which could enter the joints or unsealed surface fibres. If you want to get a long shelf life out of the build, I think it's false economy not to seal it properly. Not a huge fan of osb for floors, I've had a few fail over the years due to rot.
Hi Keith, love your videos will u be posting an accurate cost at the end of the build as I will be doing something similar soon . Keep up the good work 👍👍
My kind of decision making - how do I overcome this problem.......let’s see what I have in the garage!😀 I think your next project should be if you can convert a upvc conservatory into a timber framed conservatory.
The bigger problem you will have is the OSB buckling as you didn't seem to leave a 3mm gap between the sheets for expansion. The 3mm gap recommendation is probably printed on the sheet itself if you have a look. Hope it turns out ok bro.
See that membrane you used to protect the end grain? Im no specialist but I did this on a decking I did back in 2007 - I have to redo it all this year as the timber that was set on that exact membrane have totally rotted :( It could be the way I did it that facilitated water to remain there im not sure, just thought I would mention it!
Hi Rag 'n' Brown great video just wondering what's the best timber to use on projects for example like a bookshelf or display cabinet from my favourite tv show doctor who (Tardis exterior shape) of the show😀
I renovated my shed 7 years ago. I changed the floor and redid the facade. 3 years later, the floor is not good anymore. I used floor grade OSB and I butted it against the walls frames inside the shed. The OSB was treated against humidity yet it soaked it from the ground and it's ruined now. I forget to put a vapor barrier under I guess. I see you did not put one, I hope your ventilation will be enough.
@@RagnBoneBrown I did not have enough ventilation as the ground moved with years and closed the gaps. Critters dug under and also closed the ventilation with dirt. Ground is sand on this part of the property and with our winters, sand move a lot.
Keith I used oak as the base frame to my log cabin and although a bit more expensive it will stand the test of time and would have saved you a lot of work treating edges and using dpc. Horses for courses though. Good vids mate
I saw you use an air compressor stapler. Can you tell me the make and model of the staple gun and the compressor please? Do you use the compressor for anything else?
I feel that a better option would have been a zinc drip flashing or something similar. It seems to me that the DPC, based on how you have installed it, will create an uneven floor surface for when you install the wall plates. I have built a few sheds in a climate similar to where you are and the flashing provides a very effective barrier to shed rain and to protect the floor edge and top of the sleepers / joists.
Hi!! Excellent video series, I love how you explain all the steps. Congratulations!! Please could you tell me what is the name of the software you use at minute 6:16? thank you very much
Was the use of osb driven by price ? I thought perhaps plywood (treated) would be better? And possibly last longer, great floor design should be very strong
Looking solid and definitely water resistant mate, watching this made my worry about mine as I probably should of saved up a bit longer to make sure I had the money for the extra preconceptions. I did use treated timbers though for the base so should be OK ish🤔😊. I enjoyed the shed demolition, a sledge hammer would of been fun if the pesky glass house wasn't in the way 🔨😂
Thanks mate! I think yours looked really well built, especially compared to my first attempt where I'd done practically everything wrong 😂 but even that is still standing 5 years later with not too many issues (except a damp patch near the window 🙄).
I don't think dpc works with wood because moisture sits on the dpc and rots the wood. I think joist hangers would have been a better approach. Timber on concrete always seems to rot! I know Ali Dymock used dpc on his blocks but I think the difference is he has a lot of ventilation around those blocks. Nice video anyway!
Hi Keith, Looking forward to this build. Where did you get your DP plastic as I will need some soon for a workshop build going directly on a concrete base. I used that blackjack all over my last shed on the base, edges of OSB, roof and siding. It’s working out great and no issues with water or moisture.
Nice effort Keith, well constructed although I still favour Matt Smith's at Badger Workshop construction. I'm sure the use of floor insulation has benefits. That said, keep up the good work.
Hi Keith, I made the mistake of assuming that it would be OK not to have paving slabs over ALL the area under my workshop floor (www.donjohnson24.co.uk//workshop.html) so there was some bare earth there. After a few years, the good quality plywood I had used for the floor started to warp and de-laminate, making the floor very unstable, since dampness DID come up through the earthy bits.. As I did not want to rebuild, I had to cut the old floor out - a nightmare - and put some waterproof membrane onto the floor joists before replacing the floor - with OSB this time. One other thing I did was to drill some holes through the sides of the joists into the under-floor area in the hope that this might allow air flow and reduce the effects of damp. As you have already nailed your flooring - and probably gone further by the time you read this - my warning is probably too late, and all it will do is make you worry about the future of your OSB - Sorry!
I'm not concerned since I have good ventilation, a large air gap and a vapour barrier. My old workshop floor is still fine so can't see this one being an issue
As an old guy, this is just the degree of involvement with physical labor I enjoy. Good decisions throughout, Mr Brown.
Nice job! I use plywood for the floor. OSB is cheaper but I think top quality construction grade 3/4" ply is better for floors. I'm just about to build a small cabin, I'm going to try these new plastic adjustable screw risers under the floor. It solves 3 issues.
1) damp break between joists and the ground.
2) easy levelling
3) no concrete!
Your frame is excellent! 😁
When I was young I worked for an older woman who had me put rolled roofing on her garage floor. It kept the garage amazingly dry and clean. She even parked her car in there. I would not hesitate to put that under a shed.(instead of landscape fabric.)
I am enjoying your videos. Also like you plywood handle!
This shed should last a lifetime! enjoying all you videos, thank you keith!
Keith, you are a joy to listen to. Ken from Alabama
Brilliant radio, had mine 4 years used daily on site, never missed a beat.
This is so much help for me, I'm doing up my old brick shed . I now know the thing's I need to do it all. Xx
loved your Hitachi circular swa.
Re-watching (as I often do with all your content!) after a few hours of gardening and I never thought I would say something like this, but... I AM JEALOUS OF YOUR DIRT!! It's such a nice dark brown and looks so healthy compared to the garbage soil where I live! The ground I was working in was still wet from a recent rain and the dirt was not mud, but much closer to actual wet clay. It's such a pain not only to work with but also because few plants are willing to tolerate it and still grow here.
Great video Keith and explaining all the process of doing the floor.
I wouldn't worry too much about doing the Bitumen Paint followed with that roll over the top, just think that's it's double the safety of the edges rotting away.
Looking forward to the next step in this shed build.
Stay Safe,
Barry (Wirral, ENG)
That's going to be a great shed Keith...it will make a good workshop build video build as well.
I was following you for a few weeks, to be honest cause I will give a good sanding and varnish to my closet and to bedroom furniture. Think I learned from you to love wood, and give the special care it diservs. Sometimes your voice in your vídeos sound tired, cause you work really hard. I really like your details explaining the process, and also your honesty. Hope my little proyect end well as all of yours.
Looking good Keith. Looks like a great garden. Usually when setting floor joists start with the centre of one at 2.4m or eight foot depending on material, and work back over at 400 or 600mm centres. (16" or 24" if boards are imperial) this way minimises waste and cutting time.
Great work. Really well thought through especially concerning prospective damp.
A nice wet mix of sharp sand and cement you would have layed to slab in half the time and it would have made the slab stick to the mix.
LOL, lucky shorts and good tunes, OUTSTANDING!
you only need dpc where the wood comes in contact with the flooring, such as on the end grain or where the slabs are. Also the joists should be 400 on center, that way the sheeting would've landed half on a joist, not that it matters though. Great work!
Hi Keith, I noticed you had a field running behind your back fence that space you are leaving between rafters will make a lovely run for mice or even rabbits depending on what is in the field. We had rats under ours and my dad decided that he would flush the out with water, so he got the garden hose to and pushed it down the hole as far as he could and turned the tap on. I was banished to my bedroom as I had wanted to capture them and keep them as pets, My older brother was told to stand by the hole and hit anything that came out with a shovel I was watching from the bedroom and suddenly water started to spout in our garden, next door both ways and the old age bungalows behind us, you could hear me laughing until my dad got to my bedroom and stopped the laughter.
I would’ve added steel mesh to keep out rodents. Looking at structure it’s like a high density housing unit for small rodents.
Me too - we live in a rural area and we and neighbours have had rat problems this year. Years ago when the kids kept rabbits, a rat made a home under the hutch, chewed its way in. Wish I'd put mesh under the compost bin, had one in there too !
He has a kitty that should set things straight with the rodents.
I had a rat or something die under my shed last summer. It stank for a few days but quickly that went away.
Now I let my neighbour put his ferrets under occasionally and I havnt noticed any more rat activity.
I had a rat in our workshop this year, I managed to find a huge hole under my workbench in the corner of the floor so I shoved a concrete slab over the top and since then I haven't seen any further trace of it around.
Good idea. I had faceoff with a family of racoons under my shed.
Very detailed cause i thought it would be easier keeping the paving slabs i would never thought of ventilation and all those details . Nice video . !!!!!!
Gosh it’s my dream to
Have a house like that with all of that space. You are so lucky!
Where do you live Michelle, and what work do you do? If you're prepared to move away from an expensive area, your money will go further.
I live in London. I have lived in London all of my life.
Paint & DPC= belt & suspenders. I think it was a good idea. 😊
I think I need it explaining again about how you can get away with the side supports on the flooring. Thanks Keith.
Hi Mandy do you mean without the long timbers on the base? They were mainly just there to protect the end grain of the shorter lengths, so to get around that I used dpc to protect them instead. Hopefully that should work...👍
Hello, here in Brazil we call this drier mixture of cement and sand "farofa" (in the video, at 05:05), this mixture is drier.
Ah yes, "farofa" is a mixture of cassava (manioc) flour, eggs and onions fried in oil that tastes unexpectedly pleasant, some recipes add sausage, too.
Generally it is served drier, but there are versions that are moist.
Sorry for the Translator!
Hugs,
Alexander.
Nice job so far!
Really looking forward to these vids Keith as your original shed build back in the day is what got me hooked to your channel.
I'm really surprised you used OSB for the floor. My own thoughts it that it would never last as long as alternatives like marine ply or standard ply. You are going to have a problem with rodents under it as your house backs off onto a fairly large field there, so mice and rats are common enough there I'd say. Might be worth adding treated boards to the sides to close it off on the base.
Would only be a few quid extra in the end.
Would be worth placing a few rat bait blocks under there too.
Our own tool shed backs off onto a farmer's field here and we have had rats come clean through double sheets of floor ply to get at lawn seed so they can be very destructive!
Looking forward to the rest of this shed build series! Keep up the good work mate!
Should off noggin down both sides and one row down the center.
Would of closed the ends off like you said at the beginning
great start to the shed
You use the same range of 18V stuff as me!
I love my Hitachi (Hikoki) tools - Impact driver is my favourite tool, followed by the circular saw.
I've recently started with Makita too, simply for their much better range of tools. Blower and whipper-snipper (string trimmer) so far.
Great work
I really like how you try to cut the expenses as im functioning in the same way. Peter Parfitt made a shed recently and i would never be able to pull something like that off. Cutting corners, learning in the process and then fix with new solutions when problems arise. The OSB is risky as i used it for a shelf in my shed. That piece was i think 2,5 meters by 90 cm laying on top on some 4,5x7cm on the sides. No support in the middle. In the summer it was stiff but during winter and no real ventilation in the shed it bowed down quite a bit. Now the bow has decreased but i must add some 4,5x7 supporting it in the middle. The shelf works for what it's supposed to do though. I store some junk up there and it hasn't fallen apart yet.. :)
Awesome Keith 👍👍👍
Top job
No I think it was smart to paint it it's just extra protection even though it's not design perfectly for outside at least you're protecting it twice as much
The first song on your stereo was Philadelphia Gran Jury by the Fiery Furnaces. Great song!
❤️❤️❤️
I wouldn't stress overly about the osb floor. I've got a cheap shed I bought in 2005. It was originally sat on some stacked up concrete blocks to raise it off the floor, but they have sunk into the ground over the years so it's now just sat on the floor. Been there 15 years with no protection from.the weather at all, and its still fine.
I also made the sides and floor of my trailer from osb. Again, no protection. It lives outside and is generally full of firewood, so doesn't dry out overly fast when it does get wet. The floor lasted 6 years before I finally put my foot through it. The sides are still going strong and they've been on there just over 10 years now
Nice work!
Here in the States lots of builders use various tapes. I prefer acrylic tapes personally. The Huber Engineered Woods company makes a joint and flashing tape that is rated for use with OSB sheathing, called Zip tape used with their Zip sheathing. Comes in various lengths and widths too. Not sure how it would work out cost wise compared to what you have done but with the steps you've taken in the vid, as long as your siding overlaps your OSB edge your floor will probably be fine. If something does go wrong down the line your will certainly be their to repair it and that's just more content!
Only came across your channel a couple of days ago and watched the series of videos on you were building the workshop shed and its extension. I subscribed after watching them. It's great how you go through your different ideas and options available for the base of shed and then your rational for the option you went with. I will have the same issues with transporting concrete and stone when i go about building my own shed. Concrete is better but not feasible in some situations. Looking forward to updates
Great video!
Nice job Keith. atb
Good videos. OSB is good for walls but not for floors. I highly recommend spending a little extra on plywood for flooring.
Thanks!
Great video as per usual. The timelapse is awesome
Great work Keith, enjoying the build 👍
i used the same damp proof membrane roll between the dense blocks and my timber frame floor too, nice and durable and easily cut with a utility knife.
Yeah I like that it has a texture to it, gives me a bit more faith in it working well 👍
Rag 'n' Bone Brown I think this stuff is mainly used in bricklaying to prevent rising damp, the texture giving the mortar something to grip to.
if you made the mortar mix wet then put ridges in with your trowel that make levelling it much easier as the slab has somewhere to move
Hi, you can never have too much waterproofing so that is okay, I do not like using wood chip and prefer plywood although that would increase the cost substantially. Looks as if you are going to have a grate shed in the end, looking forward to seeing you finish it off. Good luck with the British weather it seems to always rain if you want to get something done outside.
It really doesn't change the cost that much here in the U.S , but yes to waterproof it either way! I don't think you can overdo that. :)
Yes!!
The pineapple shorts are back! Life is good again!
Wait a minute!!!!
Pineapple shirts and a dirt moustache?!
What is this crazy world we are living in?
Coming along nicely mate
I guess we all do it differently. I had to build a 6" thick concrete base because I have 2 lathes to go in, (one is in already, the other needs moving now I have welded up a stand) so I then put a course of concrete blocks in on top and DPC then the woodwork.
Hi keith,
a tip for laying a slab in the future... make up your stiff mix of sand and cement and lay it out and compact. Get a piece of say 4" x 1" or any scrap timber. measure the thickness of the slab and cut a long notch out of the timber to a millemeter or 2 less than that thickness then slide the notched bit over the slab beside to create a level base for the slab you're laying, hope this makes sense?
Great tip!
What a brilliant tip. I've never heard that one before. Thanks for sharing that 👍
@@mariah4451
Thanks Maria,
That would be fairly common among paving contractors, it's great if you have a brick edge or inset pattern among slabs also
Before I built my new shed, I saw a very compelling video on fitting (small) gutters so that water isn't constantly attacking the base of your shed. It may be a worthwhile addition if you plan to be there a long time.
Yes I have done that, cheers
I always try to adjust my joist spacing so to minimise all that osb cutting
I paint the edges of particle boards and plywood that I want to waterproof, with waterproof PVA glue. It soaks in well if you stand the board on end, and dries rock hard.
Apart from making it wider thats exactly how i did the floor on my shed . Its sitting on the patio so its solid and has space for lots of air to get under it to dry! i However used ply, i did that as it was a small shed so not too expensive, i am also a bit ..... fat , so did not want to fall through the OSB.
They type of dry mix you made for your slab is kind of similar to how a dam is created , they make very very dry mix and then roller compact it, its cheap and it works more like accident concrete so no reinforcement needed.
good video thanks
I used sleepers on a load of heavy stone slabs and that's held up okay. I didn't have a pot to pee in at the time and couldn't afford concrete either and access was also an issue.
I bought my shed on eBay it was a garden office I had to dismantle it and transport it. Then build it in the middle of winter and keep it all under tarp between time off. Got it done but new years but took me 4 months ths to save up for an electrician to wire it!
If I ever get round to making a youtube channel ill make a video about it. Its a bit of a bodge job so atleast it goes with my general approach to life and woodworking!
A quick coat of pva or a bituminous coating underside is advisable
great video again :)
Looks good so far Keith although I would have definitely used some construction adhesive between the floor and the joists.
Dylan your cat is the answer to keeping rats away. Not being a rat catcher himself but by the scent, i'll explain at the end for you.
I live on a farm and you'll never get away from a rat problem with a shed and a raised floor, even if you do put mesh everywhere. It's an ideal place for a rat, safe, dry and warm etc.
If a rat want's to get in somewhere it will, even through thin concrete. They will squeeze through a tiny space, less than an inch hole due to the way they are built, seen it with the pet rats my son has had over the years, and how far they can jump will amaze people.
Way how we deal with it down here in West Wales to stop them eating away at the animals feeds is by keeping them away by smell.
We have all our cats pee in cat trays with either cat pellets you can buy or we just put sawdust in there. We then spread it around the feed areas, or the shed in your case and the rats will not come near.
Rats hate the smell of cat pee and will stay away, they also don't like mint, not the Tesco bought pot of mint but the plant.
Wild rats are a horrible problem but the pet ones are amazing.
When you see a dog with a pet rat fast asleep under his chin and a cat doing the clawing thing on the dog and not even bothered about the rat, makes you wonder what the hell is going on.
Thank you for another great video Keith. Watch out with your overarm sheet material carrier though- I had one (gorilla gripper I think?) and it snapped mid-carry. The sheet hit the deck but my arm carried upwards and I ended up boxing myself square in the ear. I couldn’t continue my project for 5 minutes for laughing...also was a bit painful!! I made an underarm carrier out of plywood shortly after that is much more comfortable.
Great video as always Keith, but I think you should've bitten the bullet and sealed the base surface with bitumen paint. You've still got the joints between the panels and although you might not get rain ingress, you'll still get variations in humidity from winter to summer and periods of heavy frost, which could enter the joints or unsealed surface fibres. If you want to get a long shelf life out of the build, I think it's false economy not to seal it properly. Not a huge fan of osb for floors, I've had a few fail over the years due to rot.
I learn how to build a shed....than I improve my inglish ear...😂😂👍👍 Great.......hi from Italy....
Hi Keith, love your videos will u be posting an accurate cost at the end of the build as I will be doing something similar soon . Keep up the good work 👍👍
I shall 👍 thanks
Using the bitumen and the tape together will pay for itself in the long run.
My kind of decision making - how do I overcome this problem.......let’s see what I have in the garage!😀 I think your next project should be if you can convert a upvc conservatory into a timber framed conservatory.
The bigger problem you will have is the OSB buckling as you didn't seem to leave a 3mm gap between the sheets for expansion. The 3mm gap recommendation is probably printed on the sheet itself if you have a look. Hope it turns out ok bro.
See that membrane you used to protect the end grain? Im no specialist but I did this on a decking I did back in 2007 - I have to redo it all this year as the timber that was set on that exact membrane have totally rotted :( It could be the way I did it that facilitated water to remain there im not sure, just thought I would mention it!
Hi Rag 'n' Brown great video just wondering what's the best timber to use on projects for example like a bookshelf or display cabinet from my favourite tv show doctor who (Tardis exterior shape) of the show😀
I renovated my shed 7 years ago. I changed the floor and redid the facade. 3 years later, the floor is not good anymore. I used floor grade OSB and I butted it against the walls frames inside the shed. The OSB was treated against humidity yet it soaked it from the ground and it's ruined now. I forget to put a vapor barrier under I guess. I see you did not put one, I hope your ventilation will be enough.
Did you have a ventilation gap? I did use a vapour barrier...
@@RagnBoneBrown I did not have enough ventilation as the ground moved with years and closed the gaps. Critters dug under and also closed the ventilation with dirt. Ground is sand on this part of the property and with our winters, sand move a lot.
Keith I used oak as the base frame to my log cabin and although a bit more expensive it will stand the test of time and would have saved you a lot of work treating edges and using dpc. Horses for courses though. Good vids mate
I wouldn't want to use oak on a storage shed personally, seems wasteful to me. Cheers
Also would be unbelievably expensive...
I saw you use an air compressor stapler. Can you tell me the make and model of the staple gun and the compressor please? Do you use the compressor for anything else?
I feel that a better option would have been a zinc drip flashing or something similar. It seems to me that the DPC, based on how you have installed it, will create an uneven floor surface for when you install the wall plates. I have built a few sheds in a climate similar to where you are and the flashing provides a very effective barrier to shed rain and to protect the floor edge and top of the sleepers / joists.
The DPC is about 1mm thick, which is practically nothing in terms of carpentry tolerance levels. It wasn't an issue
@@RagnBoneBrown Fair enough. Looking forward to the end result.
Nice work as always. You can buy bitumen coated osb ? From wickes I’m fairly certain. Looking good though
Hi!! Excellent video series, I love how you explain all the steps. Congratulations!!
Please could you tell me what is the name of the software you use at minute 6:16? thank you very much
This may get covered in future videos but how did you secured the floor frame to the foundations?
Hi there..What size did you use for the framing timbers? And was it sawn? Cheers
Was the use of osb driven by price ? I thought perhaps plywood (treated) would be better? And possibly last longer, great floor design should be very strong
A descent chippy ye may be but a bricky ye ain't. ;-)
Looking solid and definitely water resistant mate, watching this made my worry about mine as I probably should of saved up a bit longer to make sure I had the money for the extra preconceptions. I did use treated timbers though for the base so should be OK ish🤔😊. I enjoyed the shed demolition, a sledge hammer would of been fun if the pesky glass house wasn't in the way 🔨😂
Thanks mate! I think yours looked really well built, especially compared to my first attempt where I'd done practically everything wrong 😂 but even that is still standing 5 years later with not too many issues (except a damp patch near the window 🙄).
I don't think dpc works with wood because moisture sits on the dpc and rots the wood. I think joist hangers would have been a better approach. Timber on concrete always seems to rot! I know Ali Dymock used dpc on his blocks but I think the difference is he has a lot of ventilation around those blocks. Nice video anyway!
Just one question, if I may. Have you made sure the floor is level?
🥺
Really good content, well explained as ever, but the question remains, what new table saw have you got 😉👍
Why not cut 4" off your joists so you can have full length edge support as per original plan?
You didn't coat the underside of the floor OSB ?
Good question! Will answer in future q&a vid 👍
Concrete floor would be a cheaper solution, yes ?
But more labour intensive
It would be so easy to take short cuts with all that hidden material - but you don’t - so you stand out from the crowd. 👍
Nothing wrong with a belt and braces approach.
What is the size of the shed. Thanks
I feel like the OSB flooring isnt going to last too long. Should have used pressure-treated/ground-contact-rated OSB.
Why do you think it wouldn't last long?
Hi Keith, Looking forward to this build. Where did you get your DP plastic as I will need some soon for a workshop build going directly on a concrete base. I used that blackjack all over my last shed on the base, edges of OSB, roof and siding. It’s working out great and no issues with water or moisture.
cheers, got it from screwfix
👍🏾
What design software did you use please?
SketchUp
May contact you later as I’m planning a greenhouse. This is good stuff!
Ok cool 😎👍
And thanks!
Hi man what software did you use to model up your frames etc? :)
SketchUp
How much did this project cost?
All costs are covered in the video series
Random question, why does your tracksaw have yellow tape on it (and not a Keith Brown sticker)?
I believe it's for better dust extraction (when inside and hooked up to a vac) 👍
I shall have to add my sticker - great idea!
@@Smithb83 around the extraction port I get, but down the side? Are there vent holes that are worth covering up?
Nice effort Keith, well constructed although I still favour Matt Smith's at Badger Workshop construction. I'm sure the use of floor insulation has benefits. That said, keep up the good work.
This is just a storage shed, not a workshop so it doesn't need insulation. Thanks
Hi Keith, I made the mistake of assuming that it would be OK not to have paving slabs over ALL the area under my workshop floor (www.donjohnson24.co.uk//workshop.html) so there was some bare earth there. After a few years, the good quality plywood I had used for the floor started to warp and de-laminate, making the floor very unstable, since dampness DID come up through the earthy bits.. As I did not want to rebuild, I had to cut the old floor out - a nightmare - and put some waterproof membrane onto the floor joists before replacing the floor - with OSB this time. One other thing I did was to drill some holes through the sides of the joists into the under-floor area in the hope that this might allow air flow and reduce the effects of damp. As you have already nailed your flooring - and probably gone further by the time you read this - my warning is probably too late, and all it will do is make you worry about the future of your OSB - Sorry!
I'm not concerned since I have good ventilation, a large air gap and a vapour barrier. My old workshop floor is still fine so can't see this one being an issue