Cladding The Shed With Shiplap (PART 4 SHED BUILD PROJECT)
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2020
- In this video I'll be adding the cladding to the shed using some pressure treated (tanalised) tongue and groove shiplap cladding. I also explain how to fit the cladding to allow for expansion and contraction of the wood, and why I chose the cladding material I did over others that are available like featherboard, loglap, pvc etc.
Previous episode (Shed Wall Framing): • Shed Walls and Framing...
Next episode (Shed Roof): • Making The Shed Roof (...
#woodworking #shed #carpentry
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Enjoyed this video, mate. A realistic, unpretentious view of a build without editing out the inevitable problems that occur during these things.
Cheers for the Video! Sorry for butting in, I would love your thoughts. Have you considered - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (search on google)? It is a smashing one of a kind product for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my m8 finally got cool results with it.
That cordless nail gun must be so nice to use!
Dylan steals the show, as always :) The differences in popular cladding materials between countries is interesting. Greetings from down under.
greaser5691 also from Down under!
As satisfying as most jobs are, I think this is one to outsource. Thanks for this series though, it's made me realise that I never want to build a shed!
Hi Keith, great build. I finished the inside of my cottage with pine tongue and grove...came out spectacular! So I ended up doing a complete tear out, down to the studs...I learned soooooo much. Love your video and looking forward to seeing the cost write up. Lin
extremely helpful video as i was unsure on what sort of cladding i was going to use for my shed. Many thanks
Nice work on the shed Keith! Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👍👌😎JP
Cool project . It will be nice to use it as a room because the view is amazing , drinking your coffee and watching the view amazing just amazing !!!!!!!
Nice job on those angled pieces over the door. It must have been satisfying to see them fit so well.
The corner trim pieces give the cladding a very neat, finished look.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you seal the windows. 👍
Great progress and looking good.
Your site supervisor seemed to be in a good mood that day!
looking good...very thorough.
Making great progress!
Handsaws are very useful and quick to set up.
Agreed! Would be much slower though
Excellent vid. Thank you.
I'm just doing a garden shed and had the same supply issues. Also, because I chose to build to imperial 12x6ft I have ended up with a high wastage; for example 1.8 metres is short of six feet so have to go to 2.4metres - the off-cut does not span the stud spacing I used! We live and learn! Great vids, thank you.
Looking good Keith!
I went for tongue and groove boards on my shed purely on cost reasons. I've found that mine has cupped and opened up a bit. I also had ply sheets underneath to try and help. It's holding up and protecting my tools but, the next one I build will have shiplap on it to make it look better. Good job though Keith. Loving the build.
In my neck of the woods we normally roof any structure before we "clad." But then, we can easily have inches of snow almost any time, year round - Norway.
Brilliant build mate. I do like the look of the log ship lap. Beautiful butterfly during the video looked like a red admiral. Super video chap
Looks good Keith !
Hi Kieth. Good Work. Keep it up 👍
Hi mate, Good to see you have completed the wall cladding. I have a 9mtr x 7.2mtr three bed room house to close with pine cladding with one inch grove.
I used feather edge fencing boards on mine ten years ago still good give it a inch and a half lap. I placed Tyvek on the frame before cladding helps keep moisture out. Also little tip if you place a couple of the 75mm soffit vents on both short walls at high level stops mold forming .
Wow fantastic views ! Great vid too 👍
Looks great!
Looking good. I used the thicker cladding you mentioned on my workshop mainly as it was the cheapest thing i could find. You could always put the corners over the top of the cladding. Thats what i done with mine using some old deck boards.
Shiny Hikoki toy - very nice
Nice work 👍
A good video. Thank you
I have recently discovered your channel and wish I hadn't 😉 I have been watching all of your vids and they are taking up all of my free time.
I am on the verge of building my first shed and this series is a fantastic help.
Keep up the good work.
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice video! Nice work!
Like with many things in life, its best to start when moist.
Thanks for sharing
I'm watching your projects instead of working on my own. I really need to get my ass up and going.
Nice shed! Thank you for your informative video! I'm building a similar shed with almost identical framing, and am considering using shiplap or board & batten cladding. 🎉
Very interesting vid mate. This echoes my thoughts really on cladding. As you correctly point out if you spend too much time thinking about it. Interestingly the mistake i made when i built my workshop was that i should have put the vertical end trims on first. Something i corrected when i did reclad it. And also i prefered the shiplap that you used. Cracking vid thank you. Regards Paul Prescott.
top work
Getting there, bummer about the supply issue, maybe a blessing in disguise.
Had the boards been dry, they more than likely would have had major bowing...🤔
Looking forward to seeing the roof and door go on. 👌🏾
Good job, mate. 👍🏾
7:57: I wasn't expecting your voice to be real time with the footage at that point! That's a big shed!
I know this video has been out a year or so already, but around the 4 minute mark you mention that you only fired a nail into the centre of the panel, this can be problematic later on as the boards can shrink enough on a hot sun side to pop out of the tongue and groove joint and 'curl' the boards edges outwards, never found this problem on the more expensive better quality boards but I often find this problem on cheap sheds made up in a factory and delivered out to a customer. I have just been booked again by a client to come out and replace the complete side on his shed as all the boards have jumped out the groove on one side that is in the hot sun, same problem, only nailed with 2 nails, but both nails are in the centre area of the boards about an inch apart.
It's just a point to watch. I build sheds and nail all my boards once at the top just before the boards weather curved shape starts and a second nail at the bottom of the board but a little above where the factory T & G are so as not to split it. Sheds do expand and contract all year round but they will have a tendency to do it all at the same rate and the lack of good fixing can push boards very out of shape after a year or two.
Thanks for reassuring me about the wet/dry conundrum - just get on with it! Where am I supposed to dry out 45 4M lengths of shiplap anyway - I haven't even got a shed (yet.)
Beautiful view you got there mate. Bet you must get a lot of mice in your garden though? Awesome job as always mate. Learning a lot as I’m about to attempt a man cave/ office in my garden so will use a lot of your advice here. Thanks, subbed
I work for a shed manufacture and we only use 19mm T.G.V weatherboard only
We do not use the over laping type as it dosnt seal right.
We also have all the boards hammered in tight.
We have no issuses getting the boards together but build the pannels on there flat then assemble it.
We also use 2 nails per width of the board not 1 as the board can cup and come out of the grove.
You can get 12, 14, 19 and 22mm T G V and weatherboard.
Your end trim worked out well. I finished mine by cutting a square profile down pipe 68x68mm..ish with a jigsaw to give two equal length L profiles (Took about 5 minutes) and used them as trim. Total cost...13.50. slapped some grip fill in and 30mm screws. If i do say so myself it looks very neat and professional
sounds like a nice idea1
@@RagnBoneBrown Couldn't recommend it enough. Wickes do black , brown or white. Good luck with your build. Coming on nicely
Looking good. I feel your pain on the cladding - I did a shed with that and it is infuriating. Has turned out well though, I like the edging. All the best.
Classically you would nail bottom board top & bottom, further rows would be "Hidden Nailed" by slotting in the bottom & nail only into the top tongue with finer nail
The colonials across the pond make it easier by using cladding/siding panels. Pre patterned in wood styles, but large sheets of synthetic materials that are wet/rot proof. Nail them in & forget them til you retire!
And is really neat
Saluti dall' Italia.....sicily...
I would have suggested a Vapour control layer (VCL) behind cladding to protect carcass. Also use 4x4 on corners and butt the cladding upto it to creat a nice finsihed but each to their own
That stuff would've cracked me up,first time I shiplapp I used one nail like you but after a few seasons it cupped badly at the joint so the next shed I done I used two nails ,bit better holding it to be honest. A little tip is to use 1/2 inch osb on the inside to stop shed racking, especially pay attention around the door frame or it will twist out of shape.and you will keep having to move the bolt latch like me,good luck with your build
Did you consider drilling a couple of holes in your track, screw it to the side of the shed and use the plunge saw to trim the boards for the corner fillet, perfect straight line and no need to try and follow a pencil line.
good idea, I'd rather not have the holes though
Well this was informative and I m wanted to save money but a proper job. Sick of looking at the American builds , they love to make it a bigger job than it is and they like waffle. So I’m making a shed as a man hut / work shed and was concerned about the base mainly as I’m buying the shed prebuilt… I’m a bit disabled and older so I’m not up to it to be honest but wanted to do the base and most I could… your channel is now a reference for the future, maybe not doing like you but the input was really good. Thanks… mind how you go.
I honestly think that the only problem that you may have with the shed is actually the thickness of the shiplap being 12mm as I've used it before and done the job exactly how you have and within a couple of years I started to notice that the shiplap was starting to twist and crack, it was very frustrating considering the amount of time and money that was spent on the build!
I went with 18mm exterior ply as I picked it up for free. Good to know how to use tongue and groove though.
I have not tried to buy materials lately but with the Pandemic my friends are reporting shortages. On this side of the pond you can get treated lumber that is KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) or ADAT (Air Dried After Treatment). Not much more expensive and it allows you to leave the warped pieces in the lumber yard. Much lighter too.
nice
whether the cladding is sufficient for stability, do i have to install osb as a sheating?
Tongue and groove.
great vid what's your table saw please.
Good progress! Don't forget when you cut treated timber the freshly cut face is not treated
yeah i pointed that out in the video
@@RagnBoneBrown I obviously wasn't paying attention for that bit 😂
Shiplap is so much nicer (and more expensive) than featheredge. Lovely nice finish on that.
What insulation did you use on your 5 year old shed, and on this one?
Hi, I found your video very informative and wondered if you could give me some advice on a project that has gone a bit wrong? I have a Wendy house that my step dad has been building for my 5 year old twins; unfortunately we have used the wrong materials for the walls and floor which has lead to damp and mould on the inside. The frame he has built is sound and solid, so I have suggested we take the walls off and re do with shiplap. Only problem I can foresee is that there is no room on one of the sides to get behind to actually work; the wall will need to be constructed form the inside....what would you suggest? Thanks in advance. Heather
It’s looks great! Nothing like doing it yourself 👌🏻💙
I have done this also but it was a holiday house in the bush/Country and we had to use a hammer my ex was stingy to get a nail gun also had to paint it! This was many years ago
P.S what growing the fields?
I think it's maize, used for animal feed. Thanks!
Hi, what coverage does this size of board give - how many boards per metre height?
You shold use the rubber tip for your framing nailer so you dont get the marks around every nail. Other than that it looks very good🙂
I find there’s too much conflicting information online how to do things... do I apply cladding wet/dry, spacing/no spacing etc. Sometimes we just gotta roll with it like you say, using our own judgement. That way we gain experience either way :)
agree!
Could've used the track saw to flush up the corners.
Smart job as usual but this 12mm board is nightmare stuff. Some years ago I built a large shed clad with it. It looked great but, after it weathered, gaps opened up along the joints mainly on the sunny sides and the north facing end remained perfect. I finished up adding yorkie board (the type farmers use for barns etc) over the top to weather proof it. I wouldn’t use it again and agree 16mm is far better.
7.36 Tie Fighter Nail gun blaster
Hi. Big fan, love your work. I do understand your watching the budget for this project but why did you forgo exterior plywood, and weather sheeting before adding the shiplap? Wouldn't the plywood offered stability and a better way to attach the cladding? Let me know if I'm missing something here or seeing things incorrectly. Thank again for your attention to detail and excellent videos. Best regards. Neil.
Plying the walls would have increased the cost by probably £300 and it's just a shed so it,s not really necessary. The cladding and roof structure will be tying it all together. I personally would have wrapped the frame in a breathable roofing membrane but that's just me and it costs me very little as I'm a roofer and joiner. It would provide a good vapour barrier though.
I cannot believe you did not put a breathable membrane on the frame first. I know it is 'just' a shed but membrane is very cheap nowadays and takes hardly any time to put on. I personally quite enjoy doing cladding and funnily enough I tend to prefer a good quality feather board. With feather board you decide how much overlap you want and after having installed loads of it over the years I have never had any gaps between boards due to contraction of the timber. That said yours look good too, and hopefully you will have no issues despite some of the boards being very wet.
Why would I need a membrane? The shed isn't being insulated
@@RagnBoneBrown Keeps out any draft or weather if you get any tiny gaps between boards, or warping, or knots that come loose, and also helps keep out things like ants, wasps and the likes. You can get 25 m2 from Screwfix for less than £30 and I personally find it is well worth that relatively small additional cost. A bit late now that you have put the cladding up, I know, but maybe worth considering in the future.
Hi what nail gun did you use for this project and what gauge was it ?
Looks like a fun build... I'm surprised to see no triangulation in your framing. How rigid is the structure? My current project is a summerhouse, with cladding being delivered tomorrow. The frame's up, with the roof already on and felted. I used 63/38 scantling for the frame, as it's cheap. There are lots of triangles in the frame. I'm cladding with 14mm T&G (i.e. what the local builders' merchant had available). I've used liberal amounts of Ronseal total wood preserver, in an effort to keep woodworm and rot at bay. Totally agree with the need to judge the gaps between boards. I'll be nailing each board top & bottom (no secret nailing). I once made a T&G ledge & brace gate in the summer, and although I left gaps between the boards, it swelled up so much that every winter it bowed, making it impossible to shut until it dried out again.
Thank you. The cladding plus 430ish nails holding it in place adds all the rigidity that is needed, so bracing isn't necessary
Is it not worth putting Osbs on first?
Love these shed videos Keith. I particularly like the fact that you include everything... the moments where it goes really right and then other when it doesn't, we're all human after all (though with some "instructional videos" that human element goes missing!) I have a question - i'm considering building something similar (pent) in a 7 x 9 size, however the problem i have is that i will have to clad the walls before i erect them because of the proximity to the border fence. Do you think this will be ok? Will i have a problem then with the weight? Cheers, Jim
Think it'll be fine, you might need a helping hand to lift them though
@@RagnBoneBrown thank youi!
Looking good, I've never had a shed or fence with feather edge that hasnt bowed out badly and the thin edge is often too thin and immediately splits.
Never heard of loglap, but it's now something I'd definitely consider.
P.s. Put some sunscreen on you burke!
Yeah it’s cheap for a reason I think! I had lotion on, promise!! 😂
Loglàp worked well for me in South Africa.
I find that the " tUnG aNd gRoOv" cladding is better
I am thinking of building similar soze shed myself, just wondering if its worth 🤔 how much did you spend on the materials?
Hi Keith, As you say the shed is for storage was there a particular reason why you did not line it as this would help protect the stored items further? Cheers
I would have done if I was insulating, but I don't think it's necessary here
I’ve been left disappointed with the 12mm shiplap fitted to my shed as a lot of them have separated. Does anyone know what the name of the alternative ship lap is called that’s mentioned in the video or is it easier to just get a thicker plank?
Which nailgun is that?
The quality of so called dry timber today is appalling! I'm just about to side a cabin. I'm making my own strip boards now from high quality 8 x 4 18mm plywood. I'm creating 2 foot wide simulated live wavy edge, laid horizontally with a 4 inch overlap. Great video! I love your workshop!
Cladded? Is it not just “clad” regardless of tense? Love you Keith. But that was grating on me!! 😂
Ryan Askew me too. You are correct.
I believe the correct term is claddinged
The dictionary definition states that either is correct
@@EthanWykes I think you will find it is "Claddingified"
I think you’ll find it’s claddy clad clad claddying claddy clad clad cladded, simples enough.
How is the shed holding up now we're almost out of winter? Did you consider a breathable wrap around the frame to keep a bit of wind and rain out? Any plans to insulate?
Cheers.
Talked about that in the final video in the series. Holding up well. Will do an update video later this year
Cheaper to buy 6x12 £750 including fitting or is building one cheaper mate
Last summer I made a somewhat similar shed. The day before get-go I realised the plan didn't work - not at all... - and had to redesign it in panic. After that it went downhill and turned out to be another "pi square" project, i.e. it took 9.87 times as long to do as anticipated, just don't ask about the cost (no, I said: don't), and almost drove me mad...
So far so good mate, looks great!👍🏾
I've just ordered a shed and the company makes them using non tanalised timber. When i asked about it he said it's because of the wood shrinkage you mentioned and customers calling him back out because of gaps between boards. I did question it but he was adamant that as long as it's treated regularly it'll be fine, and they treat it prior to install. Have I just messed up big time?? They do seem to have a lot of satisfied customers.
A company local to me which makes sheds also made the same comment. I suspect its cheaper for them to treat non pressurised timber with a preservative too. The frame on the shed I'm currently building is done in the same way. Note: check the concentrations of active ingredients in the preservative as some are higher than others. I chose Barrettine Universal.
@@telsaw892 yes I suppose cost would be a factor for them too, it was also cheaper for me in comparison to some other companies but not by a large amount. I'll keep that in mind too about the level of ingredients in the preservative used as well mate, cheers.
I am no expert on this at all, but from what I've read, tanalised treatment is the most effective as it penetrates the wood more than a manually applied treatment. But I don't know for sure
@@RagnBoneBrown thanks Keith, yeah the shed base only will be tanalised I didn't mention that part. As for the main body etc I'll just have to treat it regularly, twice a year I'm thinking. I'm all I'm now anyway as the deposits paid but cheers for the response.👍🏾
treated timber on the base is definitely a good idea, and with a bit of maintenance I'm sure the cladding will be fine as it will get wet and then dry out again in the sun
Hi apologies if I missed it but what wood finish did you use on the exterior of the shed ?
None, the wood is pressure treated. I did top it up with some wood preserver though which will help prevent rot or insect damage
@@RagnBoneBrown Thank you. I am using the shiplap ( available in my area now ) which I believe is also pressure treated. When you say wood preserver do you mean something like Rustins Quick Dry Shed and Fence Clear protector ?
This was a brilliant video, helpful and informative and I really appreciate you explaining things simply. I wanted to ask, do you do work for customers? I feel like I could trust you and I like the way you work and know what you’re doing. I need to move my artist studio out of the house and I really want a “shed” but one that’s built exclusively for my garden space, I need it to have some kind of heating and lighting system for working late nights and then when it’s cold. Is such a thing possible? Would you be interested in the job? (I’m in Retford, Nottinghamshire) Either way, thanks for sharing your knowledge and inspiring me.x
Thanks Laura, I do client work but only locally in Norfolk I'm afraid. Regards, Keith
Rag 'n' Bone Brown Thanks for getting back to me though.x
@laura filby it,s perfectly possible to built a nice insulated office building in your garden with either just some plug in oil filled radiators, some electric space heaters or even a nice little log burner. You could in fact have a really nice building that would feel more like a sanctuary rather than an office. I'd offer to come from Manchester to build you one myself but I don't have any RUclips videos to give you the peace of mind that you feel after watching rag,n,bone mans videos. There are some good companies that build garden buildings not too far from you that have RUclips videos. I will try to find a video from one group that I watched recently and let you know the name of it. They build really nice,affordable structures.
How many eggs per day?
I found that pvc was cheaper?
Where did you get cladding from please?
A local timber merchant
I also have bad experiences with outdoor/garden timbre not being accurate. Once we had to replace a whole fence work around the garden. Since this was quite a lot (25 or so), we decided to go for ready-made ones. These were sold as 185cm in length. To safe time we decided to first make the poles in the ground.
Guess what... they weren't 185cm at all, but more like 181-182cm. So we ended up taking them all apart and making them 2.5cm longer. 😑😡. That took an awful lot of time.
Ever since, I just really measure before I buy anything.
Oh that sounds awful! 🙄
Diagonal bracing missing? Hoop iron or speed bracing needed to me.
The cladding adds all the ridigity needed in my opinion
I cut the the back of the groove off. Just run them through my table saw.
One nail in each board! are you not worried about them 'Cupping' also on the moisture content, is it really an issue as it is an outdoor structure
No cupping on the shed I built 5 years ago which was installed in the same way. They can't cup much anyway as they're held in place by the tongue and groove
The roof timbers look strong enough, didn't see any deflection when someone played monkey!
🍻🍺
....... I get the feeling next time he’d use thicker cladding....
Why worry about dryness if it’s going outside?
because of expansion and contraction, as explained in the video - if you fit when wet, it will shrink and gaps open up
"Pretty major supply shortgages" - you aren't kidding, locally I've only been able to get hold of 2x1, 2x6, and 1x6.... all in 4.8m lengths. Literally nothing else available locally