I fixed metal mesh on the underneath of a wooden framed treated base. Then put DPM strips on top of the beams. The bearers went on top of this with metal mesh sealing the open ends. And the insulation dropped into this. Living near woods, rats can be problem and did as much to seal the underside of a very small log cabin garden room build. I learnt from this i need to tape the insulation and fill gaps with expanding foam with tape, no problem as i screwed tongue and groove flooring which i can take up to fix. So very useful video.
I've done a few insulated sheds, normally you would want to use vapor barrier instead of OSB because the OSB will get wet and rot. Make sure the vapor barrier runs over the outside of the framing and continue it up the insides of the walls. Good luck with your build hope it goes great!
I was thinking the same. Any osb not fully under the floor will get rained on plus the edges will get exposed to moisture. What would you have chosen as flooring?
Very nice! I think since you have a PT lumber foundation, and the rigid insulation is a vapor barrier in and of itself, you could skip the plastic. I can see it getting all nasty under there with the plastic. Alternatively, you could have put the plastic layer between the insulation and OSB. I would have liked to have seen some panel adhesive between to OSB and insulation. The insulation probably won't shift, but that way you'd be sure. Also, scrap pieces of asphalt roof shingles between pavers and joists will prevent moisture wicking. Great job though--there's a hundred different ways to do it.
thanks for the video. I am just about to start the exact same build in the UK. Spent last weekend digging out foundations and have ordered all the wood / insulation for this weekend. I hope my build goes as smooth as yours!
Very nice! Having all the materials on site is a big plus. This build took over 2 months because we only worked a couple days a week and filmed it all.
Anything between the cement blocks and the wood? Water wicks thru cement so I usually use an asphalt shingle as a moisture barrier between the cement and the wood. Treated wood is worth considering. You could probably use a jack or even a lever to slightly lift and insert something.
Without a barrier there would be mold for sure! The plastic on top of the concrete make a big difference in keeping the ground water from resting on the osb.
Thank you for watching. I'm glad to hear that it helped. I will be building a much larger shop soon that will have an insulated floor and I'm going to add 1/4" hardware cloth on the bottom to help prevent rodents.
How do you stop the insulation from falling down over time and sitting on the ground? You didn't appear to fasten it at all, is it held up by nothing but friction?
I dont think you put glue on the foam to hold it in place ? It wouldn’t have taken much .. Nothing seems to stay without some sort of fastener… 😉 nice job though..!
Hi, is it essential to have a gap between the base and concrete or could the damp membrane just be in between the base and floor so the frame sits directly on concrete floor?
That is an interesting thought. I have two sheds at my place with plastic and so far after 2 years the rodents have not destroyed it. BUT I can see that being an issue.
For my shed foundation I wonder if I put down a tarp, wire mesh and then gravel to keep the rodents from eating their way into my flooring from under the shed?
which one has 11ft and 9 ich lol (the first cut ) im guessing the 12 ft one,, im trying to follow u,, 1st time,, nevr did this b4.. so u keep one 10 ft and the other 11 ft and 9 inch,, wait ill keep watching
For a detached office space with walking traffic this foundation is more than enough. Now if you will be placing an ATV on the floor 2x8s should be used.
I fixed metal mesh on the underneath of a wooden framed treated base. Then put DPM strips on top of the beams. The bearers went on top of this with metal mesh sealing the open ends. And the insulation dropped into this. Living near woods, rats can be problem and did as much to seal the underside of a very small log cabin garden room build. I learnt from this i need to tape the insulation and fill gaps with expanding foam with tape, no problem as i screwed tongue and groove flooring which i can take up to fix. So very useful video.
I've done a few insulated sheds, normally you would want to use vapor barrier instead of OSB because the OSB will get wet and rot. Make sure the vapor barrier runs over the outside of the framing and continue it up the insides of the walls. Good luck with your build hope it goes great!
I was thinking the same. Any osb not fully under the floor will get rained on plus the edges will get exposed to moisture. What would you have chosen as flooring?
seems like a really good spot for critters to build nests under...
Very nice! I think since you have a PT lumber foundation, and the rigid insulation is a vapor barrier in and of itself, you could skip the plastic. I can see it getting all nasty under there with the plastic. Alternatively, you could have put the plastic layer between the insulation and OSB. I would have liked to have seen some panel adhesive between to OSB and insulation. The insulation probably won't shift, but that way you'd be sure. Also, scrap pieces of asphalt roof shingles between pavers and joists will prevent moisture wicking. Great job though--there's a hundred different ways to do it.
That extra inch in length going to really make the siding and roof planks fun....
Yes the extra floor length was cut out of there. Otherwise it would have been terrible.
thanks for the video. I am just about to start the exact same build in the UK. Spent last weekend digging out foundations and have ordered all the wood / insulation for this weekend. I hope my build goes as smooth as yours!
Very nice! Having all the materials on site is a big plus. This build took over 2 months because we only worked a couple days a week and filmed it all.
Just found your channel. I am building a 12x20 shed.
Thanks for watching! A 12x20 will be nice. Be sure to check the new build series of a 20x30.
Anything between the cement blocks and the wood? Water wicks thru cement so I usually use an asphalt shingle as a moisture barrier between the cement and the wood. Treated wood is worth considering. You could probably use a jack or even a lever to slightly lift and insert something.
That is a great idea! I will see if we can lift the building enough for a piece of shingle. Thank you.
You guys built one hell of a floor there! Excellent!!!
Thank you. The homeowner wanted no bounce so that's what we built.
Very nice,
I'd have used 3/4 plywood and added some center support pavers to make the floor as capable of heavy load as it is sound and stable.
I did not show on the video but center support was added. The next build on the channel does use 3/4" treated plywood for the floor.
Looks like an excellent area for black mold 👍
Without a barrier there would be mold for sure! The plastic on top of the concrete make a big difference in keeping the ground water from resting on the osb.
@@sethcraftworkshop Was the plastic attached at both ends? Or, all the way around? I could only see it attached at one end.
Nicely done. Your cuts were really on, the blocking and insulation you showed were all friction fit.
Thank you. So far this build has done very well. I tried to get the floor as spot on as possible. The floor insulation fit was good.
That foam is mouse food and nesting material. Might just throw some reflective bubble wrap down on joists. Skip the foam.
Ah good point. In my next build I am going to install 1/4" hardware cloth below the insulation to prevent rodent damage.
That 3'11.5" wide T&G subfloor just tricked me as well, Dosh Garnet!
I know! That was frustrating. Had to cut a small strip to make up the gap. I am not sure why they even do that.
Very well explained! You help us allot! Hope your channel grow!
Thank you for watching. I'm glad to hear that it helped. I will be building a much larger shop soon that will have an insulated floor and I'm going to add 1/4" hardware cloth on the bottom to help prevent rodents.
But but… how about the condensation that will create in between the insulation and the plywood floor??
Very nice. Thank you.
How do you stop the insulation from falling down over time and sitting on the ground? You didn't appear to fasten it at all, is it held up by nothing but friction?
Friction is holding these up. It was a tight fit. In my next build I will install hardware cloth under the insulation to keep rodents out.
You can just pop a couple of screws in if you want to but if you can get them as tight as this they’re going nowhere
Sub floor should ALWAYS be Perpendicular to floor joist
Because this building is so small I don't expect an issue. But you are right going the other way would have been better.
Do you sell the drawing, I loved it and I want to build one in my yard.
Sadly I do not have any plans. I tend to just go out and start building when I make something like this.
So no permit needed i guess?@@sethcraftworkshop
I dont think you put glue on the foam to hold it in place ? It wouldn’t have taken much .. Nothing seems to stay without some sort of fastener… 😉 nice job though..!
On this build there was no glue on the foam. Now on my 20x30 shop build I did install some caulking to close the gaps in the foam.
You did not tap your tongue and groove gap together
Rodents will get up under that floor and use that insulation for bedding.
Not sure how mice handle the ridged foam insulation. Time will tell if holes are made.
Rodents will probably get under the foundation regardless, but they're not going to bother with ridged insulation
@@westhavenor9513 Well here in PA and SC I have had rodents get into some ridged foam insulation. Not sure where you live.
Hi, is it essential to have a gap between the base and concrete or could the damp membrane just be in between the base and floor so the frame sits directly on concrete floor?
.I personally like to have a small gap to allow air flow, but if your concrete slab is perfectly level, you could build directly on top of that.
You need to "crown" all your boards. Convex side up.
That is a step I did not show on camera. I made sure to show that on the new 20x30 shop build series that is now on the channel.
Should have put rodent proof wire screening under the plastic
Or they will shred the plastic & destroy the Styrofoam
That is an interesting thought. I have two sheds at my place with plastic and so far after 2 years the rodents have not destroyed it. BUT I can see that being an issue.
They are there.
That's what I worry about. Animals eating their way through my floor..
For my shed foundation I wonder if I put down a tarp, wire mesh and then gravel to keep the rodents from eating their way into my flooring from under the shed?
How many 2×6's are needed?
That will depend on the spacing of your floor joists. In this build I did 24" on center. 13 total 2x6.
7 at 10 foot
6 at 12 foot.
which one has 11ft and 9 ich lol (the first cut ) im guessing the 12 ft one,, im trying to follow u,, 1st time,, nevr did this b4.. so u keep one 10 ft and the other 11 ft and 9 inch,, wait ill keep watching
Either the sides or back/front can be full length. One or the other needs 3" removed. It basically depends on the direction of the floor joists.
@@sethcraftworkshopwhy 3"??
Maybe should've put some glue on the insulation
In a later build I caulk the insulation and it works well.
WOW so under built. Floor joist should be 16 ' on center.
For a detached office space with walking traffic this foundation is more than enough. Now if you will be placing an ATV on the floor 2x8s should be used.
It’s a shed base, not a house.