I watched this back and realized around the 3 minute mark I was saying "15 inches on center" for my joists. I meant "16 inches on center"... I guess that's the problem with editing at 2AM :(
Hey man I just subscribed to your channel. And this is what I’m looking to do. So I’m gonna use your same process with all steps. Anything different u would change
Here is a tip about cull lumber at home depot. If you go through the stack of good lumber and find boards you legitimately think could be deemed cull lumber, separate them out and bring them to the attention of an employee. Most of the time they will go ahead and mark them as cull for you. I've done this several times, sometimes they actually thank ME for saving THEM time since I did the work.
@@woody5109a worthless 2x6 can make a really good 2x4s so on. I bought 12 foot 2x12s the other day for 85% off and got about 20 feet of good 2x6 out of each one.
Dude thank you so much! I’m literally doing a 10 x 16 ft shed and somehow I found this video because I would’ve done it completely wrong 🤣🤣 i now want to do almost exactly this. Thanks so much
The one thing I'd probably add is a tyvek type of weather barrier over the insulation in the floor, then the floor on top of it..just to add one more layer of protection against air and critters, although taping the joints pretty much has that same effect
Hello from Nebraska, thanks for this. Going to replace a 10x10 Menard's shed kit built in 1997 on piers with your style of foundation and pad area. Looking forward to your shed build.
This is so articulate and comprehensible! And the loyalty to The Home Depot is worthy and practical. (I'm a retired employee and a stock holder.) Just really GOOD descriptions and tips!!
Great idea with the off-cut bin. ONe suggestion I'd make for others, since there is open space under the floor, I'd go with some type of sheathing _under_ the insulation, because critters are going to find it and start chewing on the open foam. Those little rascals will chew on the wood too, but this way you might get some notice.
I use a green treated plywood layer between the skids and floor joists then fill between floor joists with foam insulation to full joist height this keeps all unwanted critters out and allows the floors to stay warm/cool during winter/summer. I also double sheath the floor with 3/4 plywood (not chipboard)
@@dodgeme1986trucki would double the protection from any rodents by putting pavers on the exposed gravel then using meshwire to protect the wood from rats that can chew through.
@@samjam6989 I do use the mesh on any structure that may hold food/grain or desired animals (keeps predators outta the insulated coops for my coops the floor is intentionally sloped into a drain in the middle of the floor then waterproofed to about a foot above the floor on all walls making something similar to a shower pan)... The green treated usually keeps rodents out on its own though...
Not sure you'll have enough ventilation to keep the joist bays dry. Sitting on gravel is the same as sitting on earth as regards moisture unless you have a moisture barrier in there somewhere. Most pre-built sheds with skids, set the whole thing on CMUs to get 12-18 inches of clearance. That type of installation effectively puts the floor in the open air.
Great video. Not conventional building practices but it'll do for what you're planning to use it. I'd of recommended stapling metal mesh screening (hardware cloth) across the open ends of your 4x4's to keep critters (racoons, skunks, etc...) from building dens under the building.
Pretty sure you need an air gap for the foil faced foam to work... I *think* you gain an extra R value with the heat reflecting off the foil but it needs a 1 inch air gap in order to work... I could be wrong, but I think I remember the last time i installed some having to deal with that, even so its only 1R your gaining not a huge issue.
I would have just put the full insulation pieces on the joists, and used longer screws to attach the OSB. They do that under some basement concrete floors, so it should be strong enough to take the weight of some foot traffic, but probably not a riding mower.
Nice and thanks!. Im building something similar, but i have it raised above ground so not on gravel. What would you use below the floor deck? Deck, insulation then some steel wire net against rodents? THanks . Its strange its not much info about this online xD.
You erred in with the radiant barrier; radiant barriers _only_ work when there's an air gap; when there isn't an air gap, heat doesn't _radiate_ it _conducts._ No air gap? No radiant barrier benefits
Great video and collection of ideas. I do have a question about gluing the floor to the joists: Previously using the tape to seal the foam board, isn’t that covering the floor joists? So the glue is not providing wood to wood contact? Not sure if I am asking this coherently but I think in this case you glued the flooring to the sealing tape. So wondering if the foam board should have set deeper that the 1” in the floor joists to allow the wood flooring to bond directly to the wood joists? I am asking this because I am considering a similar project and looking to do it as good as possible (obviously within reason too).
Definitely good thoughts. A couple people have commented that the foam should be a bit lower down on the joists to take real advantage of the radiant barrier. That might be a good way to go. As for the glue, it would be good to glue directly to wood, but I was more interested in sealing my vapor barrier, the glue was more to stop squeaking in the future and to make the floor more ridgid - I think even gluing to the tape accomplished this since every panel was also nailed/screwed down.
@@EveryotherKarl there is theory and reality. So not only do I appreciate the video but the reply! Now I know that this worked for you, I am considering doing the same. Thanks again for taking the time to put the video together but the user feedback takes this to another level of benefits for all of us.
The radiant barrier still needs at least an inch of air between the barrier and the surface you are reflecting to for proper "reflection". Otherwise it is going to lose efficiency. The way it is installed in this video, you are reflecting the heat back up into the floor and into the shed, while the back of the insulation is used to keep the cold out. You still need the space to reflect the heat back into the floor.
That is good. I was scratching my head wondering why you would place them 15” OC since your ply would by off. Also curious how the level came out without placing pads under the skids which I am interested in doing but concerned the floor will not be or maintain level.
@@fredjones43 it came out quite level - I was concerned there might be leveling, but after about 9 months there hasn't been any and its stayed level. Doing as much compacting of the gravel as possible makes a big difference.
the foil side of a one-sided foiled foam board should always face the air space. it will add about R-1 or R-2. if the foil side is covered with the subfloor it won't add any additional R-value as the foil can't radiate back into air. at the end of the day it's still insulating, but you spend more for the foil and don't get the added benefit of it.
Thanks for the video, it's definitely one of the best I've seen regarding building the gravel base and shed floor. I'm definitely going to follow your blueprint here. One question, I know you secured the wood posts for the gravel base with rebar, but how do you secure the actual shed floor to the ground? I was thinking you could secure the wood skids using rebar as well. I'm assembling a resin shed which has some weight to it and I will be securing it to the shed floor but I don't want to depend on the weight of the shed alone to make sure it can sustain heavy winds. What do you suggest as far as ensuring the shed itself is secured to again sustain strong and heavy winds?
There are good options out there for shed anchors. Some are cables that anchor into the ground with big screw anchors. I would suggest going with something like that. My shed is very heavy, but I do still intend to anchor it at some point.
Why not have NO AIR Flow…but instead fill the spaces in between the joints will closed cell spray foam to seal everything to prevent snakes and other creatures from nesting under the floor?
@@EveryotherKarli would use sand on top of the gravel and install pavers on top, although i did it for storage shed. Maybe for studio it would be different
Looks like a good design and build process. Being the flooring is out in the field, what are you planning to do to prevent rodents from nesting under the floor?
@@dialruppertOk I think it would help no matter what - it may be less important, but it will still help as a vapor barrier and can also dampen noise as you walk on the floor of the shed.
Question: a builder told me i need plastic sheeting under the shed or the floor would eventually rot out. I put down hardware cloth and landscape fabric under the gravel but a friend who isnt doing my project said i would need plastic...he said i could put it over the shed base before they put shed up...what do you think? I see you didnt do that. And also mine will have a sturdy insulated floor just like yours. And it will be up on some sort of blocks so i know it will have some airflow? Or maybe not. Im just a mrs./ nurse. They are coming day after tomorrow..to build it now after canceling for snow. It would be easy enough to lay some plastic🤷♂️
It depends to an extent on where you live. If you live in a very dry area you may not need a vapor barrier, but it is a good idea to protect your floor from humidity. The way I installed my foam insulation and sealed the joints of the insulation with spray foam and tape before installing the OSB panels makes it a vapor barrier. This basically means that any water that evaporates up from the ground will gather on the underside of the foam insulation instead of the underside of my OSB floor panels. That's the goal, keep the moisture from gathering on the underside of the wood. My floor joists are pressure treated so I'm not worried about them being exposed to moisture and there is plenty of airflow under the shed to dry everything out if it does get moist.
For the floor in the end you mention adhesive but didn't say what you used for adhesive. Also will that adhesive stick to the joist tape you put down? Thanks.
Have you done an L shaped shed? How would floor joist and drainage be design with L shaped shed? Also, if you have a thick lawn grass, do you have to clean the pad first? Im a complete newbie and no knowledge or experience with any trades
We bought a pre built shed. I want to insulate the floor prior to it being set on the pad. Not sure the delivery of the shed will allow it before they set on our pad- any recommendations?
looks good. but you are going to have all kinds of critters making homes under that shed. gotta find a way to lock out those ends.. maybe a heavy screen around the ends. that way air can still flow through it.
I'm going to follow your build but I'm going to turn it into my room because my parents are letting me build my own mini house type thing do you reacon I could insulate it aswell
Just a tip - You cut your insulation and the insulation dust was spread all over the lawn. Next time, use a tarp under the table saw so you can at least capture 90% of the insulation dust to dispose of it rather than leaving it in your lawn as pollution.
Most importantly, you first should expect that groundhogs, rabbits, skunks, snakes, opossums, chipmunks and squirrels will get under there constantly and dig to China! You have to create a barrier with skirting and a strong layer of wire underneath to protect the insulation and floor! Don't argue with me!!! I am fed up with these damn animals and I am about to go ballistic!
So I want to build my own shed I have just build my foundation pad to get started with this and needs the description of insulation tape and materials outlined any where on here or website?
I don't like the fact that the entire structure is floating on gravel and not tied into some type of footing. If hurricane ties are a factor then I would imagine anchoring the structure to the ground would be equally sensible.
Kids and their catchphrases today, where everything is a ton of this and a ton of that. Find some new words children, the dictionary is full of more descriptive words than ton.
I watched this back and realized around the 3 minute mark I was saying "15 inches on center" for my joists. I meant "16 inches on center"... I guess that's the problem with editing at 2AM :(
Hey man I just subscribed to your channel. And this is what I’m looking to do. So I’m gonna use your same process with all steps. Anything different u would change
I was wondering about the 16” Center
I thought you had a different way of doing it. Thanks for making my mind feel better
This other Karl approves.
I was confused, the maths weren’t mathing. 😂
Here is a tip about cull lumber at home depot. If you go through the stack of good lumber and find boards you legitimately think could be deemed cull lumber, separate them out and bring them to the attention of an employee. Most of the time they will go ahead and mark them as cull for you. I've done this several times, sometimes they actually thank ME for saving THEM time since I did the work.
Not sure why you would purchase unless material at any price, but fill your boots?
@@woody5109a worthless 2x6 can make a really good 2x4s so on.
I bought 12 foot 2x12s the other day for 85% off and got about 20 feet of good 2x6 out of each one.
Tip on lumber. Check with a local lumberyard. A lot of times you can get better prices. Wood is better. And they will load it for you.
Dude thank you so much! I’m literally doing a 10 x 16 ft shed and somehow I found this video because I would’ve done it completely wrong 🤣🤣 i now want to do almost exactly this. Thanks so much
Great video. Only thing I would add to save with clean up is you can just score and snap that insulation. 👍
When ripping foam board or apex [pvc] I will attach a shopvac to table saw outlet. Great video!
The one thing I'd probably add is a tyvek type of weather barrier over the insulation in the floor, then the floor on top of it..just to add one more layer of protection against air and critters, although taping the joints pretty much has that same effect
Hello from Nebraska, thanks for this. Going to replace a 10x10 Menard's shed kit built in 1997 on piers with your style of foundation and pad area. Looking forward to your shed build.
This has been super timely as I’m currently building a shed. Thanks for the great resource!
Looks good! For my climate (Maine) I would want probably 3-4x the insulation you specced out!
Thank You for sharing. I've been debating on whether to build myself or buy one already built. Looking forward to the next video.
Build, buying one is expensive and weak
How do you not have one million views? So well explained. Following your videos to build my tiny 12x16 studio.
Haha, thank you. Hope they help!
RIGHT! lol
This is so articulate and comprehensible! And the loyalty to The Home Depot is worthy and practical. (I'm a retired employee and a stock holder.) Just really GOOD descriptions and tips!!
Keep up with these videos. You go through it very well and you don’t stay on one thing for too long which is great. Thank you for these videos
Great idea with the off-cut bin. ONe suggestion I'd make for others, since there is open space under the floor, I'd go with some type of sheathing _under_ the insulation, because critters are going to find it and start chewing on the open foam. Those little rascals will chew on the wood too, but this way you might get some notice.
I use a green treated plywood layer between the skids and floor joists then fill between floor joists with foam insulation to full joist height this keeps all unwanted critters out and allows the floors to stay warm/cool during winter/summer. I also double sheath the floor with 3/4 plywood (not chipboard)
@@dodgeme1986trucki would double the protection from any rodents by putting pavers on the exposed gravel then using meshwire to protect the wood from rats that can chew through.
@@samjam6989 I do use the mesh on any structure that may hold food/grain or desired animals (keeps predators outta the insulated coops for my coops the floor is intentionally sloped into a drain in the middle of the floor then waterproofed to about a foot above the floor on all walls making something similar to a shower pan)... The green treated usually keeps rodents out on its own though...
I liked how you built the floor system and how you added in the ridgid foam for insulation, which was genius!
Well done, Sir!
Cannot wait for the next steps for your Shed Build! We are doing exactly the same here in Wisconsin.
admit it - you are cheating off of him.
@@wizardmaster6639
I would definitely paint that floor with white marine grade paint before I erected any walls.
Not sure you'll have enough ventilation to keep the joist bays dry. Sitting on gravel is the same as sitting on earth as regards moisture unless you have a moisture barrier in there somewhere. Most pre-built sheds with skids, set the whole thing on CMUs to get 12-18 inches of clearance. That type of installation effectively puts the floor in the open air.
Interesting thought. Maybe it will be fine with pressure-treated wood?
Great video. Not conventional building practices but it'll do for what you're planning to use it. I'd of recommended stapling metal mesh screening (hardware cloth) across the open ends of your 4x4's to keep critters (racoons, skunks, etc...) from building dens under the building.
Great video, thanks for putting it together, very helpful.
Pretty sure you need an air gap for the foil faced foam to work... I *think* you gain an extra R value with the heat reflecting off the foil but it needs a 1 inch air gap in order to work... I could be wrong, but I think I remember the last time i installed some having to deal with that, even so its only 1R your gaining not a huge issue.
Brilliant! Best demo and explanation I’ve found of how to insulate a shed floor. What type of adhesive did you use? Looks like a caulking of some sort
Hi Jannie, it's construction adhesive. Many companies make a version, I used some by Liquid Nails and Some by Gorilla Glue.
I would have just put the full insulation pieces on the joists, and used longer screws to attach the OSB. They do that under some basement concrete floors, so it should be strong enough to take the weight of some foot traffic, but probably not a riding mower.
I have lived near several Lowe's stores and have never seen one that sells cull wood.
It’s like Manna from heaven, gotta try it sometime. 😂😂
@horacecomegna335 How am I going to try it?
very nice work,sir.enjoyed the vidieo
You explained well and are easy to follow. I subscribed to your channel to learn more in the future. Thank you very much.
very nice. excellent instructions.
Nice and thanks!. Im building something similar, but i have it raised above ground so not on gravel. What would you use below the floor deck? Deck, insulation then some steel wire net against rodents? THanks . Its strange its not much info about this online xD.
You erred in with the radiant barrier; radiant barriers _only_ work when there's an air gap; when there isn't an air gap, heat doesn't _radiate_ it _conducts._ No air gap? No radiant barrier benefits
Great video and collection of ideas. I do have a question about gluing the floor to the joists: Previously using the tape to seal the foam board, isn’t that covering the floor joists? So the glue is not providing wood to wood contact? Not sure if I am asking this coherently but I think in this case you glued the flooring to the sealing tape.
So wondering if the foam board should have set deeper that the 1” in the floor joists to allow the wood flooring to bond directly to the wood joists?
I am asking this because I am considering a similar project and looking to do it as good as possible (obviously within reason too).
Definitely good thoughts. A couple people have commented that the foam should be a bit lower down on the joists to take real advantage of the radiant barrier. That might be a good way to go. As for the glue, it would be good to glue directly to wood, but I was more interested in sealing my vapor barrier, the glue was more to stop squeaking in the future and to make the floor more ridgid - I think even gluing to the tape accomplished this since every panel was also nailed/screwed down.
@@EveryotherKarl there is theory and reality. So not only do I appreciate the video but the reply! Now I know that this worked for you, I am considering doing the same. Thanks again for taking the time to put the video together but the user feedback takes this to another level of benefits for all of us.
The radiant barrier still needs at least an inch of air between the barrier and the surface you are reflecting to for proper "reflection". Otherwise it is going to lose efficiency. The way it is installed in this video, you are reflecting the heat back up into the floor and into the shed, while the back of the insulation is used to keep the cold out. You still need the space to reflect the heat back into the floor.
I.m not sure about this.
That is good. I was scratching my head wondering why you would place them 15” OC since your ply would by off.
Also curious how the level came out without placing pads under the skids which I am interested in doing but concerned the floor will not be or maintain level.
@@fredjones43 it came out quite level - I was concerned there might be leveling, but after about 9 months there hasn't been any and its stayed level. Doing as much compacting of the gravel as possible makes a big difference.
how would you correct for the centering of the joists?
the foil side of a one-sided foiled foam board should always face the air space. it will add about R-1 or R-2. if the foil side is covered with the subfloor it won't add any additional R-value as the foil can't radiate back into air. at the end of the day it's still insulating, but you spend more for the foil and don't get the added benefit of it.
Thanks for the video, it's definitely one of the best I've seen regarding building the gravel base and shed floor. I'm definitely going to follow your blueprint here. One question, I know you secured the wood posts for the gravel base with rebar, but how do you secure the actual shed floor to the ground? I was thinking you could secure the wood skids using rebar as well. I'm assembling a resin shed which has some weight to it and I will be securing it to the shed floor but I don't want to depend on the weight of the shed alone to make sure it can sustain heavy winds. What do you suggest as far as ensuring the shed itself is secured to again sustain strong and heavy winds?
There are good options out there for shed anchors. Some are cables that anchor into the ground with big screw anchors. I would suggest going with something like that. My shed is very heavy, but I do still intend to anchor it at some point.
Good video, I didn't see you anchor the base to the gravel pad/soil, I presume the weight of the base makes it unnecessary? Thanks
Good question. I will be anchoring the building once it's done as an extra precaution for heavy wind.
Why not have NO AIR Flow…but instead fill the spaces in between the joints will closed cell spray foam to seal everything to prevent snakes and other creatures from nesting under the floor?
Great video - very helpful. One question: why do you stagger the sizes of the plywood flooring? Thanks.
It helps prevent any lifting/shifting of the floor boards if anything settles in the future, it also helps keep the floor more rigid.
@@EveryotherKarli would use sand on top of the gravel and install pavers on top, although i did it for storage shed. Maybe for studio it would be different
Looks like a good design and build process. Being the flooring is out in the field, what are you planning to do to prevent rodents from nesting under the floor?
I added wire mesh to the ends of the floor to keep the pests out.
do you think the floor insulation is needed if installing the shed in a concrete/tile terrace?
@@dialruppertOk I think it would help no matter what - it may be less important, but it will still help as a vapor barrier and can also dampen noise as you walk on the floor of the shed.
Thanks bud!! Helped me a lot
Subscribed so that you’re a step closer to your 10k
@@AlianaLandscapeDesign Haha! Much appreciated!
You built a very cozy place for all sorts of things to live under...
Great video. Only question, what part of the country are you in AND how thick is your gravel base?
I'm in New Jersey. Gravel is 4 inches deep
Question: a builder told me i need plastic sheeting under the shed or the floor would eventually rot out. I put down hardware cloth and landscape fabric under the gravel but a friend who isnt doing my project said i would need plastic...he said i could put it over the shed base before they put shed up...what do you think? I see you didnt do that. And also mine will have a sturdy insulated floor just like yours. And it will be up on some sort of blocks so i know it will have some airflow? Or maybe not. Im just a mrs./ nurse. They are coming day after tomorrow..to build it now after canceling for snow. It would be easy enough to lay some plastic🤷♂️
It depends to an extent on where you live. If you live in a very dry area you may not need a vapor barrier, but it is a good idea to protect your floor from humidity. The way I installed my foam insulation and sealed the joints of the insulation with spray foam and tape before installing the OSB panels makes it a vapor barrier. This basically means that any water that evaporates up from the ground will gather on the underside of the foam insulation instead of the underside of my OSB floor panels. That's the goal, keep the moisture from gathering on the underside of the wood. My floor joists are pressure treated so I'm not worried about them being exposed to moisture and there is plenty of airflow under the shed to dry everything out if it does get moist.
love these videos, but you should have a material list
For the floor in the end you mention adhesive but didn't say what you used for adhesive. Also will that adhesive stick to the joist tape you put down? Thanks.
Yes, it stuck pretty well and there haven't been any creaks.. but it would stick better to wood.
Have you done an L shaped shed? How would floor joist and drainage be design with L shaped shed? Also, if you have a thick lawn grass, do you have to clean the pad first? Im a complete newbie and no knowledge or experience with any trades
Any thoughts on a 1/8" to 1/4" air gap between insulation and flooring? Thank you
Did I miss it? Where and in which video do you show attaching that shed to the ground?
We bought a pre built shed. I want to insulate the floor prior to it being set on the pad. Not sure the delivery of the shed will allow it before they set on our pad- any recommendations?
Make a pad with a crawl space underneath that you can install the foam from after delivery?
hey, i would like to see a video about the interior... thanks
That first band board, how did you fasten it to the 4x4's? Was it just toenailed in?
Toenails and 3 inch screws.
@@EveryotherKarl Ty sir.
did you do anything to anchor the floor?
I'm about to try to do a 12x12 shed and love the gravel around. What size gravel box should I make?
I'd suggest 14x14 so you have a foot on all sides. 4 inches deep.
you can usually ask for an even bigger discount when you buy scrap wood and they usually do it. just try, worst they can say is "no"
Did he really say 15" on center? With 2X6's 14-1/2" gap between joists make that 16" on center
looks good. but you are going to have all kinds of critters making homes under that shed. gotta find a way to lock out those ends.. maybe a heavy screen around the ends. that way air can still flow through it.
You're right! I actually did add screen in one of the next videos.
I'm going to follow your build but I'm going to turn it into my room because my parents are letting me build my own mini house type thing do you reacon I could insulate it aswell
Yes, my insulation video will be coming out in the next few weeks.
@@EveryotherKarl sweet dude
How do you anchor the shed to the gravel pad?
There are various shed anchoring kits on Amazon. I'd suggest taking a look at those options and see which one would work for your kind of shed.
what prevents this shed from being picked up by wind etc? It is not secured to the foundation in any way? Just curious.
It is quite heavy, but I may add shed anchors when the project is complete, I haven't decided yet.
So u wouldn't put plastic on the bottom of the floor close to the ground?
WInd? Pin it to the ground or use Auger anchors later?
I intend to use Shed anchors.
How did you secure the skids to the ground? Thanks
I did not secure them at this stage, I will be securing the whole shed with shed anchors later on.
How deep is your gravel base?
@@trouthunter4250 it's about 4 inches deep.
The little blocks are called cleats.
No that's 3-3/4" removed from the 10'-3/4" joist.
Well one misconception you have stated is with adhesive on the plywood. It does work but it’s pointless to glue the wood to your tape!!!
Karl, your floor insulatios is gonna be eaten by rodents from underneath.
I'm sure it would have, but in the next video I installed wire mesh to keep them out.
Where did 15” oc come from? Standard is 16”.
Sorry! That was an error in the voiceover as I was editing late at night. The joists are 16 oc.
Any issues with insects getting into the insulation in the floor?
No problems yet.
Just a tip - You cut your insulation and the insulation dust was spread all over the lawn. Next time, use a tarp under the table saw so you can at least capture 90% of the insulation dust to dispose of it rather than leaving it in your lawn as pollution.
Bro your putting your foot in this shed foundation lol Keep em coming (SUBBED)
1-5/8 screws for the floor, you only screwed into the insulation..
I screwed into the joists.
The insulation is between the joists, not over the joists
Razor blade for foam probably would’ve saved an hour
Most importantly, you first should expect that groundhogs, rabbits, skunks, snakes, opossums, chipmunks and squirrels will get under there constantly and dig to China! You have to create a barrier with skirting and a strong layer of wire underneath to protect the insulation and floor! Don't argue with me!!! I am fed up with these damn animals and I am about to go ballistic!
Im surprised you rip with a hand saw
Any rodent problem? Better put mesh wires all around that wooden base because a rat could bite its way through that prrssure treated wood
Used border
No one can afford home Depot and others prices.. I really don't see how anyone can build a new home. It's ridiculous...pex
Nobody cares, work harder.
So I want to build my own shed I have just build my foundation pad to get started with this and needs the description of insulation tape and materials outlined any where on here or website?
Unfortunately I have not created a full materials list yet.
I don't like the fact that the entire structure is floating on gravel and not tied into some type of footing. If hurricane ties are a factor then I would imagine anchoring the structure to the ground would be equally sensible.
Make sure you let the county know you built this as a STUDIO - so they can charge you more in property taxes -
Kids and their catchphrases today, where everything is a ton of this and a ton of that. Find some new words children, the dictionary is full of more descriptive words than ton.
You are so. So sad
Vexxed