if this video was helpful leave a comment and consider subscribing for more videos. You can show your support by giving thanks from the menu below the video. Helpful links: Suncast 8x10 Shed - amzn.to/3QAI27F 6" Fastener - amzn.to/40knW4T Bubble line leveler - amzn.to/3QdEAP7 Rebar - amzn.to/3QdELdf
Nice work. As a project construction manager for over 35 yrs, I would like to advise you to never cut in the position you were in while cutting the 4x4. A kick back by the circular saw and you will slice your leg open. I have seen it 7x in my line of work. Always leave a clearance for kick back. Good luck.
Instead of painting the PT wood black, you can char the wood with a propane torch. Darkens the wood and charring protects the wood as well , up to 100 years.
Just some quick info and tips. That's not really for a weed barrier, it's to prevent the stone from sinking into the dirt. Secondly, if you have a groundhog problem put down some chainlink fence or chicken wire over the fabric, if prevents them from burrowing. They love to dig under sheds. Also let your pressure treated lumber dry out a bit before you paint them. Otherwise a good build.
Great advice about the groundhog burrowing issue. Where I live in the Southwest, it is a mama squirrel issue and for the second year in a row, she has burrowed under the shed that was incorrectly installed over bare dirt by the previous homeowner, my uncle, who should have known better. I will now have to wait for mama's babies to leave the underground nest a couple of months from now and then figure out what I will do to try to solve the problem.
Was thinking the same thing but instead of on TOP of the weed barrier putting it down first. In my mind, putting the weed barrier down first means those critters will try to get under it and destroy the barrier in the first place? IDK much about this stuff, so I could be wrong.
You are so smart, bro. I love how you knock the rebars through the frame into the soil, which is the same as the piles into the ground providing the resistance to settlement. Really good job, I learned a lot from you. Thank you so much for the video.
Good job I like the application of the rebar spikes. I see you used a small hand tamper but I would recommend using a gas powered plate compactor with smaller material to get a solid cement like base. My local rental place only charged $63.00 per day.
Great video. You’re old man reminds me of my dad. He’s such a handyman do it all. Currently he can’t do much due to his battle with cancer. Jerked a few tires reminding me of my old man.
Great job thank you. I would have benefitted from some instructions along the way cause I’m a total amateur. But I like silent movies. Hope to attempt this venture in summer.
Nice job, sir! In case people think of avoiding the weedblock cuz a shed will be on top, I'll point out that landscape fabric - or poly sheeting with holes poked for drainage - is there to prevent your nice gravel from sinking into muddy dirt. Depends on the type of soil, amount of rain and freeze/thaw cycles in one's particular area, but it's much easier to lay a barrier in the beginning of your stone project instead of a couple years later. Ask me how I know, LOL! Also, field cuts of PT lumber -- especially ground contact ones -- should be coated with preservative that soaks into the wood, such as CopperCoat. In my area Ace sells it but the big box stores don't.
Nice idea!! I've been thinking about putting up a more stable shed then the one I have now but didn't want to pay for concrete as it's expensive as hell. Thank you thank you thank you for this idea and I'm gona try once it warms up here in NC. Have a great day! :)
Good job. Did basically the same thing for a friend last summer. Hope your shed fairs better. She called this fall because the doors were warping. I would have gone with wood personally but bit my tongue. She had her mind made up.
Resin sheds are known for warped doors and walls along with UV rays making them look faded over time. Also, high winds can move them around if they are not anchored down.
Good ideas I'm planning on getting a shed to store a compact tractor probably a 12x20 I would prefer the floor to be either gravel or a slight mixture of concrete and not plywood
Great job and love this approach! If I build one like this, I would add: (1) additional vertical rebar in the center of each 4x4 (I couldn't tell if you did that), and (2) Call Miss Utility to come out and mark any utilities in that area before-hand so the rebar does not hit anything underground.
I like it. I recently did a similar base. I used pressure treated 2x4s instead of 4x4s and I didn't put down a weed barrier (maybe I should have). I put down a 2+ inch layer of sand and compacted that and then used pea gravel to fill it to the top of the frame. I was told, by my favorite gawkers, that it was over kill but I like a level shed with working doors.
Working doors are important, what you can also do is set some pavers under the door so it's square. This is what I did. You can see the pavers near the door, looks good, it's better on the feet, wheel barrel and squares the door.
it would take longer to rot away if you had used the 4x4s. they could have gotten two by fours and made a frame and poured a perimeter out of concrete and then they wouldnt have to worry about the rot problem . I see one end they used the concrete to bring the level up when it was lower. next time I bet thats what they will do.
I put 5" cedar fence slats at the bottom covering the siding to help with water splash against the bottom. They're cheap and great against rhe elements. Then applied silicone at all the edges where the cedar meets the siding. Im sure there are better more expensive solutions but for me it fit my budget.
I did pretty much the same base except I used 4x6 lumber rebar staked down every 3 feet, highway heavy duty weed barrier that was staked down,8 inches of machine compacted gravel. It was alot of work and cost alot more than 250 dollars. 14'x16'.
gravel is cheap, so is the 4x4 posts from HD. The rebar was expensive but I didn't need much. I also compacted by hand no machine. It was a relatively cheap project for me.
My contractor just had to do this for my shed. The previous owner was a talented self-taught carpenter who built a backyard deck and rebuilt the front porch. They looked very nice but he didn't use the best materials and they did not adhere to any code. He assembled the Suncast shed on a wooden base. Within five years, there were signs of deterioration in the shed base and within eight years, there was water rot damage in the deck. He not only didn't use ground contact lumber for these projects, he didn't even use pressure treated boards. The deck lasted longer because I resealed it every other summer. However, I could not get to the support joints on the deck or the base of the shed. Last year, we had a very bad tornado that moved the shed off its base and destroyed the anchors. I started looking at the cost to build a concrete base and to dismantle and replace the 10 x 8 resin shed. My lowest bid was around $10K for all of the material and labor. For less than $3K more, I could have gotten an entire garage built. I started looking at metal sheds to save money but I didn't want metal, it would be staggering hot during our summers and brutally cold during our winters. Like trailers, metal sheds do not fare well during our tornado season. My contractor was trained as a structural engineer in his Slavik country and is extremely talented. He reinforced the shed shed with pressure treated lumber then raised it of its old base so that he could get rid of the damaged lumber. He dug down around 6-8 inches, put down a layer of gravel, then a layer of paving sand, and finally 20 x 20 pavers. He put the shed on this new foundation then screwed the floor into this new foundation. He put new metal hinges on their doors. This cost less than half of what it would have cost to purchase a new resin shed and pour a concrete slab. Also, the new studs he used to reinforce the shed allowed me to install new shelving and garage organizers to hang all of my landscaping equipment and supplies.
@@turnbolt9582 very good. Initially I was going to make the posts thecsame size as the shed but then decided not to. This allows for better drainage from roof runoff. But either way is acceptable.
Looks great. I’m in FL so the 4x4 wood would last about a year. Probably concrete or cinder blocks would work better for the borders in a wet environment.
Nice job, two questions: 1. Turns out there are lots of gravel types and sizes. What did you use? 2. What is the black spray you used on the 4x4s? (I paused the video, but couldn't make it out.) Is it something special for pressure treated wood? Thanks
Just regular spray paint with primer to further protect the PT wood and make it look good.. I used the common gravel you can buy from and outdoor place. It's called 3/4 gravel or bluestone.
Did you put the 4x4s on top of concrete pavers all the way around? I am not sure as your video seems to have skipped that part. Thank you for an otherwise very good video.
So you anchored the wood frame but not the shed? I thought you wanted to place the shed on top of the wood frame and that is why you were leveling it precisely. The 4/4 acts as your mini retaining wall.
I suggest always pre-drilling a pilot hole, especially for large lag screws, and especially at the very end of the material like that. And you won't burn out your drill..
Looks nice, but I'm wondering why you kept the string in place. Seemed unnecessary once you spray painted the edges & dug out for the 4 x 4's - Especially after tripping over it.
I could of just used the string but then I decided to just spray paint the outline and remove the string which I decide not too just to make sure my spray paint out line was correct and I could continue to measure the string diagonals. With that being said I probably should of just remove the string earlier than I did, it was there to ensure the box was squared and I could measure the diagonal. Obviously I did this live and looking back I could of removed it sooner. Btw another important thing is to measure the diagonal on the posts to make sure that is square which means that just digging a foot more on all directions than setting the posts down checking for square without using the strings is an option, but I like to make sure its square right off the bat and use the strings to do that. It's all a matter if preference.
How do you secure the shed? if a storm came and there was 40-50 mph wind gusts what would happen to the shed just sitting on a gravel base? or did you anchor it into the ground?
The shed has survived gust of over 65 mph with no issues. 1st, there's weight in the shed, 2nd the roof helps to deflect the wind. 3rd, I did anchor some spikes through the shed floor. I have had no issues with wind. Wind will not be an issue if you have things in the shed. For example your lawnmower doesn't just fly away because of the wind. Weight inside the shed helps it from moving etc. Please subscribe as I will have a video explaining this.
That was so awesome!! I love it so much I bought a kit to install a shed in my back yard But I wasn’t that happy at the very end I thought the shed would’ve been sitting and bolted on the posts
@@daP.ADid you lay the treated lumber on a couple inches layer of gravel or straight on the fabric (bit of gravel at the edges), and how long do you expect the treated lumber to last (in-spite of the coating spray painted - what paint is that?)? I am debating between 4x4 or 6x6 posts..
I know amazon sells shed anchors that you drill into the ground. I just don't know where on the shed the anchor is attached to. The floor? The walls? The roof?
I don’t get it . Did they put cement bloc on each corner or not under the first layer of wood ? Or isn’t only double wood square fill by rocks ? Directly on the ground ? Thx Ps: great job but I wonder you have winter ?
@@raminybhatti5740 anchored with regards, the posts do see on the stone, then it get backfilled. On one side the posts sits on a cement/mortar layer. The spill was also compacted.
why don't we use 2x2 concrete blocks ? It is 5bucks each and much cheaper and easier to setup underlayment for shed. We can recycle when it moved to another location with shed. Anyway I liked watching you working with your dad. Father is always supportive. nice work
What happens if one rolls/brush tar as a protection layer on the bottom of the wood post. Was told nevef to paint tge entire post as it traps tge moisture and doesnt let tgecwood breath to dry therefire rot sets in quicker so just tge bittom or side on ground/dirt contact🤔
If your base is larger than your shed, how can you anchor your shed down? I purchased a 7’x7’ resin shed and was going to do an 8’x8’ base, but if I do that, how can I anchor shed. In central Florida, you can at times get heavy winds
@@kimberlyhonea4225 so I could of made the 4x4 base the same size as the shed. I would then anchor the shed to the 4x4 posts. This is a good option since the 4x4 posts git anchored with rebar. However I wanted to not have the shed directly on the posts which over the years might rot them out due to moisture. What I did was anchor the shed from the inside with spikes. See description for spikes. These spikes went through the shed base down past the gravel. Either anchor method is fine, although I'll agree anchoring it to the 4x4 posts might be better in areas of high wind. Note that this shed has seen winds gusts over 50 with no issues.
I have a few questions. Where did you buy the gravel and about how much did you need to buy for this project? My Shed is 10x16. I'm def nervous about the slope part. Going to try this next week. Fingers Crossed.
Bought at an outdoor living place, where they sell pavers, sand etc. To calculate the gravel needed for for cubic yards formula, basically length x width x depth. Good luck an consider subscribing for more videos.
Nice work! Quick question as I am about to make one for a 7x7 plastic shed...why, other than for aesthetics, is it important that the wood frame be perfectly square if the shed is not resting on top of it? I was planning to make a wider perimeter of gravel around my shed base as well so just curious how important that is. I know it should be level!
I will be making a video on this soon, basically the weight you have inside should help. If your in a really high wind area you might need to take some other steps. One way is to anchor it on the 4x4 posts.
Bit of overkill . I built a deck out of 2x6 pt lumber that my neighbor was tossing out when he was rebuilding his deck. Cost me zero. It sits on gravel with a few blocks holding it level. Been 15 years, hasn't moved . Plus the plastic floor sits better on wood then gravel. The shed is then screwed to the deck. its 10x12.
Can you just put the gravel in the corners and put stone blocks on top of those? Ive seen some videos of doing that, and then placing the frame base on top of those corner stones
Why did you use the bricks on one side but not the other? Would it be a bad idea to put the wood directly down on the ground if it was dug out and leveled?
@@daP.A thanks for responding! Could I ask why you didn’t do the bricks on all sides and level it? I’m wanting to do this DIY and appreciate your insight! :)
The drill bit was 1/2 I believe. The main reason I sprayed the PT was to make it look better and protect it little more. I didn't want it to get the old grey color as the PT ages. The spray paint should also help water from penetrating the PT just like any other paint protects the wood.
The paint looks nice but it does not last long in the sun. I have painted with spray paint on exterior wood before and it fades very quickly. The real protection is from the wood being pressure treated. If you’re looking to skip a step this would be it.
@@hadjiabbas it depends, usually there's enough weight inside to keep the shed from moving. However you should probably try to anchor it down. I did this with some spikes that I linked to in the description. I will have a video on this at some point so subscribe for more.
if this video was helpful leave a comment and consider subscribing for more videos. You can show your support by giving thanks from the menu below the video.
Helpful links:
Suncast 8x10 Shed - amzn.to/3QAI27F
6" Fastener - amzn.to/40knW4T
Bubble line leveler - amzn.to/3QdEAP7
Rebar - amzn.to/3QdELdf
Nice work. As a project construction manager for over 35 yrs, I would like to advise you to never cut in the position you were in while cutting the 4x4. A kick back by the circular saw and you will slice your leg open. I have seen it 7x in my line of work. Always leave a clearance for kick back. Good luck.
Thanks for looking out
Great advice. Should be pinned!
OMG!! 😁👍🏼
It happens lightning fast.
Same here . My friend got 35 stitches !
Instead of painting the PT wood black, you can char the wood with a propane torch. Darkens the wood and charring protects the wood as well , up to 100 years.
That's correct and an alternative to what I did. Thanks for the great comment.
And huffing the smoke from charing PT wood will make you live 100 years also
Just some quick info and tips. That's not really for a weed barrier, it's to prevent the stone from sinking into the dirt. Secondly, if you have a groundhog problem put down some chainlink fence or chicken wire over the fabric, if prevents them from burrowing. They love to dig under sheds. Also let your pressure treated lumber dry out a bit before you paint them. Otherwise a good build.
Great advice about the groundhog burrowing issue. Where I live in the Southwest, it is a mama squirrel issue and for the second year in a row, she has burrowed under the shed that was incorrectly installed over bare dirt by the previous homeowner, my uncle, who should have known better. I will now have to wait for mama's babies to leave the underground nest a couple of months from now and then figure out what I will do to try to solve the problem.
Was thinking the same thing but instead of on TOP of the weed barrier putting it down first. In my mind, putting the weed barrier down first means those critters will try to get under it and destroy the barrier in the first place? IDK much about this stuff, so I could be wrong.
Cost????
You are so smart, bro. I love how you knock the rebars through the frame into the soil, which is the same as the piles into the ground providing the resistance to settlement. Really good job, I learned a lot from you. Thank you so much for the video.
@@weisun957 thank you for taking the time to leave this comment. I appreciate it.
Good job
I like the application of the rebar spikes.
I see you used a small hand tamper but I would recommend using a gas powered plate compactor with smaller material to get a solid cement like base. My local rental place only charged $63.00 per day.
Great video. You’re old man reminds me of my dad. He’s such a handyman do it all. Currently he can’t do much due to his battle with cancer. Jerked a few tires reminding me of my old man.
You may not know me brother but I know your pop's will get threw it brother be there for him as much as you can sir
Very interesting. Glad you gave the old guy, who's about my age, the smaller wheelbarrow 🤓
;) indeed but hes still pretty strong for 73.
Great job thank you. I would have benefitted from some instructions along the way cause I’m a total amateur. But I like silent movies. Hope to attempt this venture in summer.
It's so easy it doesn't require much instructions, feel free to ask question on the comment section. Good luck!
Nice job, sir! In case people think of avoiding the weedblock cuz a shed will be on top, I'll point out that landscape fabric - or poly sheeting with holes poked for drainage - is there to prevent your nice gravel from sinking into muddy dirt. Depends on the type of soil, amount of rain and freeze/thaw cycles in one's particular area, but it's much easier to lay a barrier in the beginning of your stone project instead of a couple years later. Ask me how I know, LOL! Also, field cuts of PT lumber -- especially ground contact ones -- should be coated with preservative that soaks into the wood, such as CopperCoat. In my area Ace sells it but the big box stores don't.
Great idea for my green house. Good job you two. Angel from The Bay
Nice idea!! I've been thinking about putting up a more stable shed then the one I have now but didn't want to pay for concrete as it's expensive as hell. Thank you thank you thank you for this idea and I'm gona try once it warms up here in NC. Have a great day! :)
good luck, thanks for the comment.
A concrete Base would be cheaper.
Good job. Did basically the same thing for a friend last summer. Hope your shed fairs better. She called this fall because the doors were warping. I would have gone with wood personally but bit my tongue. She had her mind made up.
So far its holding up great, we will see
Resin sheds are known for warped doors and walls along with UV rays making them look faded over time. Also, high winds can move them around if they are not anchored down.
Thanks! I'm putting up a shed for my mom soon and this was a great help for a proper foundation for it.
Thanks for leaving the great comment. I hope your mom likes it.
This is great! can probably use this for a greenhouse as well. Thank you!
absolutely
Fair play, nice job, especially the flooring
The re-bar Idea 💡 is great 👍
Thanks
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!!
Your welcome, please consider subscribing for more videos.
Good ideas I'm planning on getting a shed to store a compact tractor probably a 12x20 I would prefer the floor to be either gravel or a slight mixture of concrete and not plywood
Thank you for the video. I really didn't want to use concrete and have lots of gravel to repurpose!
it works great!
A beautiful and well made base. Saved it for future construction of my own. Thanks for making this video.
thank you!
Great job and love this approach! If I build one like this, I would add: (1) additional vertical rebar in the center of each 4x4 (I couldn't tell if you did that), and (2) Call Miss Utility to come out and mark any utilities in that area before-hand so the rebar does not hit anything underground.
@@diydoc 1. Checked 2. Backyard no utilities. Good luck and tha ks for the comment. Please consider subscribing for more videos.
I like it. I recently did a similar base. I used pressure treated 2x4s instead of 4x4s and I didn't put down a weed barrier (maybe I should have). I put down a 2+ inch layer of sand and compacted that and then used pea gravel to fill it to the top of the frame. I was told, by my favorite gawkers, that it was over kill but I like a level shed with working doors.
Working doors are important, what you can also do is set some pavers under the door so it's square. This is what I did. You can see the pavers near the door, looks good, it's better on the feet, wheel barrel and squares the door.
it would take longer to rot away if you had used the 4x4s. they could have gotten two by fours and made a frame and poured a perimeter out of concrete and then they wouldnt have to worry about the rot problem . I see one end they used the concrete to bring the level up when it was lower. next time I bet thats what they will do.
Exactly what I'm looking for. Did you end up posting a video on how to anchor the shed to this? Assuming just rebar?
Not yet, soon I'll post it
@@daP.Adid you ever show how to anchor it into the gravel? I want to start this but am confused on the anchoring the shed part!
Great build Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for taking the time to post this as this will help me with my project
good luck, and please subscribe for more videos
This was a very informative video, thank you! I would like to ask: Would this same process work for a 12x10?
Thanks for your comment. It should work on a 12x10. Good luck, and please consider subscribing for more great videos.
I put 5" cedar fence slats at the bottom covering the siding to help with water splash against the bottom. They're cheap and great against rhe elements. Then applied silicone at all the edges where the cedar meets the siding.
Im sure there are better more expensive solutions but for me it fit my budget.
as long as it works
crazy amount of work, nima.......
I did pretty much the same base except I used 4x6 lumber rebar staked down every 3 feet, highway heavy duty weed barrier that was staked down,8 inches of machine compacted gravel. It was alot of work and cost alot more than 250 dollars. 14'x16'.
gravel is cheap, so is the 4x4 posts from HD. The rebar was expensive but I didn't need much. I also compacted by hand no machine. It was a relatively cheap project for me.
My contractor just had to do this for my shed. The previous owner was a talented self-taught carpenter who built a backyard deck and rebuilt the front porch. They looked very nice but he didn't use the best materials and they did not adhere to any code. He assembled the Suncast shed on a wooden base. Within five years, there were signs of deterioration in the shed base and within eight years, there was water rot damage in the deck. He not only didn't use ground contact lumber for these projects, he didn't even use pressure treated boards. The deck lasted longer because I resealed it every other summer. However, I could not get to the support joints on the deck or the base of the shed. Last year, we had a very bad tornado that moved the shed off its base and destroyed the anchors. I started looking at the cost to build a concrete base and to dismantle and replace the 10 x 8 resin shed. My lowest bid was around $10K for all of the material and labor. For less than $3K more, I could have gotten an entire garage built. I started looking at metal sheds to save money but I didn't want metal, it would be staggering hot during our summers and brutally cold during our winters. Like trailers, metal sheds do not fare well during our tornado season. My contractor was trained as a structural engineer in his Slavik country and is extremely talented. He reinforced the shed shed with pressure treated lumber then raised it of its old base so that he could get rid of the damaged lumber. He dug down around 6-8 inches, put down a layer of gravel, then a layer of paving sand, and finally 20 x 20 pavers. He put the shed on this new foundation then screwed the floor into this new foundation. He put new metal hinges on their doors. This cost less than half of what it would have cost to purchase a new resin shed and pour a concrete slab. Also, the new studs he used to reinforce the shed allowed me to install new shelving and garage organizers to hang all of my landscaping equipment and supplies.
@@WuWei7 thanks for the informative comment and am glad you are all set.
Nobody cares
@@robbenoit6065 Rudeness is not appreciated.
I just did this, but seal coated my timbers and made it the same size as the shed so I could anchor down to the timbers.
@@turnbolt9582 very good. Initially I was going to make the posts thecsame size as the shed but then decided not to. This allows for better drainage from roof runoff. But either way is acceptable.
Thank you! I have been studying your video closely
good luck
Beautiful job done there. Well done to you and, I think your Dad.
Correct, thank you.
Looks great. I’m in FL so the 4x4 wood would last about a year. Probably concrete or cinder blocks would work better for the borders in a wet environment.
Cinder blocks are a great alternative
Nice job, two questions:
1. Turns out there are lots of gravel types and sizes. What did you use?
2. What is the black spray you used on the 4x4s? (I paused the video, but couldn't make it out.)
Is it something special for pressure treated wood?
Thanks
Just regular spray paint with primer to further protect the PT wood and make it look good.. I used the common gravel you can buy from and outdoor place. It's called 3/4 gravel or bluestone.
Thank you for the info. Very helpful
beautiful teamwork. What did you use to put the lines in the concrete ramp?
Thabks, I had an old bbq grill top that I used to make those lines.
Did you put the 4x4s on top of concrete pavers all the way around? I am not sure as your video seems to have skipped that part. Thank you for an otherwise very good video.
Only on one high side of the posts. You can put concrete pavers or just mortar/concrete to fill in the gap like It did.
@@daP.Aso you put the pavers to add height. You otherwise trust the PT wood on the dirt?
So you anchored the wood frame but not the shed? I thought you wanted to place the shed on top of the wood frame and that is why you were leveling it precisely. The 4/4 acts as your mini retaining wall.
Beautiful. Very nice. I'm just concerned about the run off. Where does the water go when it rains?
@@FunDuude slowly, and that's they key, slowly seeps into the group. You will need to take slope and excessive runoff into account.
I suggest always pre-drilling a pilot hole, especially for large lag screws, and especially at the very end of the material like that. And you won't burn out your drill..
Supposedly you dont need to pre drill with those, but good advise.
Wow that is way more work and cost than necessary, but very nice.
Looks nice, but I'm wondering why you kept the string in place. Seemed unnecessary once you spray painted the edges & dug out for the 4 x 4's - Especially after tripping over it.
I could of just used the string but then I decided to just spray paint the outline and remove the string which I decide not too just to make sure my spray paint out line was correct and I could continue to measure the string diagonals. With that being said I probably should of just remove the string earlier than I did, it was there to ensure the box was squared and I could measure the diagonal. Obviously I did this live and looking back I could of removed it sooner. Btw another important thing is to measure the diagonal on the posts to make sure that is square which means that just digging a foot more on all directions than setting the posts down checking for square without using the strings is an option, but I like to make sure its square right off the bat and use the strings to do that. It's all a matter if preference.
How do you secure the shed? if a storm came and there was 40-50 mph wind gusts what would happen to the shed just sitting on a gravel base? or did you anchor it into the ground?
The shed has survived gust of over 65 mph with no issues. 1st, there's weight in the shed, 2nd the roof helps to deflect the wind. 3rd, I did anchor some spikes through the shed floor. I have had no issues with wind. Wind will not be an issue if you have things in the shed. For example your lawnmower doesn't just fly away because of the wind. Weight inside the shed helps it from moving etc. Please subscribe as I will have a video explaining this.
@daP.A I'd like to know the anchor spikes you used cause I'm about to do this, this weekend and installing the shed Wed this coming week.
@@daP.A you do the video yet?
Great base.. did u use pre fab concrete blocks for the slope? I was thinking about doing the same and drive rebar down like u showed.. nice base
ended up mixing a couple of bags of concrete on the slope beneath the pressure treated post.
That was so awesome!!
I love it so much
I bought a kit to install a shed in my back yard
But I wasn’t that happy at the very end
I thought the shed would’ve been sitting and bolted on the posts
pretty nice alternative to concrete. nice job
@@Bewilderdashed11 thanks
Nice job! Does it work well in places with heavy and snowy winters such Canada ?
@@LandiniMr yes it does
Thank you. Well thought out.
Hey, great work! I want to build one similar. That looks to be about 84sqft. How many cubic yards of gravel did you need for this?
I believe a little less than 2.5.
@@daP.ADid you lay the treated lumber on a couple inches layer of gravel or straight on the fabric (bit of gravel at the edges), and how long do you expect the treated lumber to last (in-spite of the coating spray painted - what paint is that?)? I am debating between 4x4 or 6x6 posts..
U need to put some dampproof caurse under bottom 4x4 agaist soil grass edge stop damp
Did you end up posting how you anchored the shed? I want to do a gravel pad also but don't know how to anchor it. 😊
I'm looking for the same
I know amazon sells shed anchors that you drill into the ground. I just don't know where on the shed the anchor is attached to. The floor? The walls? The roof?
Thank you for this video, that looks like a great shed base. Would you please share what gravel/rock you used?
@@Mumumama205 3/4 inch bluestone
Nicely done. Good job.
I don’t get it .
Did they put cement bloc on each corner or not under the first layer of wood ?
Or isn’t only double wood square fill by rocks ?
Directly on the ground ?
Thx
Ps: great job but I wonder you have winter ?
Nice work, btw. Don't you think that the rebar will eventually rust out whatever portion is under ground?
Yes in 200 years from now
Nice build
Thank you
Regarding the concrete blocks in the corners that are used to raise the wooden beams, how are they anchored to the ground so they don't sink or move?
@@raminybhatti5740 anchored with regards, the posts do see on the stone, then it get backfilled. On one side the posts sits on a cement/mortar layer. The spill was also compacted.
Love the ramp!!❤ First time I see someone do grab/skid lines on the ramp concrete. Did you used a piece of rebar to make them??
@@321rydell thank you, I used the cooking grill from a BBQ ;). Thanks for your comment and please consider subscribing for more videos.
Nice work, probably too nice for a suncast shed
The shed has been great so far. Thanks for the comment
why don't we use 2x2 concrete blocks ? It is 5bucks each and much cheaper and easier to setup underlayment for shed. We can recycle when it moved to another location with shed. Anyway I liked watching you working with your dad. Father is always supportive. nice work
Thank you, 4x4 lasts longer as I dont plan on moving it. Better base with 4x4.
Beautiful! Great job!
@@JeanneOlson-vv9tl thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to comment
Great video. What measurement of lumber used please ?
4x4 posts
What happens if one rolls/brush tar as a protection layer on the bottom of the wood post. Was told nevef to paint tge entire post as it traps tge moisture and doesnt let tgecwood breath to dry therefire rot sets in quicker so just tge bittom or side on ground/dirt contact🤔
It was lightly painted, it will still breath. Post is pressure treated and is still g on rocks underneath.
The problem is, I need the tools to build the shed, but I need the shed to store the tools.
That's a dilemma.
Put them in the garage. If no garage the back patio. If no patio... the living room or your wife's office.
😂😊
😂 just had this conversation with a friend
put the tools under your bed until you get the shed built
I have no use for this. But.... for some reason, I enjoyed it. So, I tapped the thumbs up 👍 button to feed the algorithm monsters.
Much appreciated it. Thank you.
If your base is larger than your shed, how can you anchor your shed down? I purchased a 7’x7’ resin shed and was going to do an 8’x8’ base, but if I do that, how can I anchor shed. In central Florida, you can at times get heavy winds
@@kimberlyhonea4225 so I could of made the 4x4 base the same size as the shed. I would then anchor the shed to the 4x4 posts. This is a good option since the 4x4 posts git anchored with rebar. However I wanted to not have the shed directly on the posts which over the years might rot them out due to moisture. What I did was anchor the shed from the inside with spikes. See description for spikes. These spikes went through the shed base down past the gravel. Either anchor method is fine, although I'll agree anchoring it to the 4x4 posts might be better in areas of high wind. Note that this shed has seen winds gusts over 50 with no issues.
Rocking out to the Hey Bear, thanks for the video my guy
How did the concrete magically appeared under the wood base?
We mix concrete and applied it under it, it's in the video. There's no magic.
I have a few questions.
Where did you buy the gravel and about how much did you need to buy for this project? My Shed is 10x16.
I'm def nervous about the slope part.
Going to try this next week. Fingers Crossed.
Bought at an outdoor living place, where they sell pavers, sand etc. To calculate the gravel needed for for cubic yards formula, basically length x width x depth. Good luck an consider subscribing for more videos.
Nice work! Quick question as I am about to make one for a 7x7 plastic shed...why, other than for aesthetics, is it important that the wood frame be perfectly square if the shed is not resting on top of it? I was planning to make a wider perimeter of gravel around my shed base as well so just curious how important that is. I know it should be level!
@@MegSong95 it doesn't have to be square as long as it holds the gravel, but usually things are don asymmetrical
What flooring did you use? Did that come with the shed or did you buy that separately? Thanks!
It came with the shed, the shed has a plastic type flooring. I added plywood on top and anchored it. Subscribe to see more videos on that.
Wow, I wish I had dirt like that. We have 1/“ of soil then hit limestone.
Whats the metal rebar pole called you drilled thourgh the timber into the ground?
No worries found link in your description thanks
I'm doing an 8x12 foundation, but my shed is 6x4 how do I anchor down the shed on top of the gravel.
I will be making a video on this soon, basically the weight you have inside should help. If your in a really high wind area you might need to take some other steps. One way is to anchor it on the 4x4 posts.
Foi bastante trabalho mas esta muito bom ❤❤
Sir you said no concrete gosh darn it! looks good
@@5tacosdelenguacontodo lol, a but ir mortar was used, you can use pavers or sime stones instead.
If your saw kicked back, how would you get your knee out of the way? I'm referring to minute 6:00. Otherwise, awesome job!
Good point, if you notice my knee closest to the saw is back more. I was aware that could happen but should of taken better precaution. Thanks.
Bit of overkill . I built a deck out of 2x6 pt lumber that my neighbor was tossing out when he was rebuilding his deck. Cost me zero. It sits on gravel with a few blocks holding it level. Been 15 years, hasn't moved . Plus the plastic floor sits better on wood then gravel. The shed is then screwed to the deck. its 10x12.
Can you just put the gravel in the corners and put stone blocks on top of those? Ive seen some videos of doing that, and then placing the frame base on top of those corner stones
You need a stable leveled surface to spread the weight evenly
Nice job. Thanks for the VIDEO.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thanks for sharing. How much rock did you have to use ?
I think 2.5 yards. Width x height × length then convert from cubic feet to yards
Sturdy shed foundation. What type of spray that you used on the 4x4 posts?
Just regular spray can paint
Very nice job!!!!!
thanks!!
Why did you use the bricks on one side but not the other? Would it be a bad idea to put the wood directly down on the ground if it was dug out and leveled?
For added support stability, ensure its level, and to further protect the wood.
@@daP.A thanks for responding! Could I ask why you didn’t do the bricks on all sides and level it? I’m wanting to do this DIY and appreciate your insight! :)
What size drill bit did you use for the rebar? And what did you spray the PT post with?
The drill bit was 1/2 I believe. The main reason I sprayed the PT was to make it look better and protect it little more. I didn't want it to get the old grey color as the PT ages. The spray paint should also help water from penetrating the PT just like any other paint protects the wood.
The paint looks nice but it does not last long in the sun. I have painted with spray paint on exterior wood before and it fades very quickly. The real protection is from the wood being pressure treated. If you’re looking to skip a step this would be it.
How much would this project cost roughly for a 10ftx6ft base ..?
Thanks fellas, good job...
thanks for the comment!!
To exact.same frame 8 x 10 shed what is the length of the posts, we need to be cut ?
@@Jones24x I just got 2x 8 foot and 2x 10 foot posts I belive or I might of gotten all 10 footers.
@@daP.AThankyou !
Does the shed need to be anchored on the floor?
@@hadjiabbas it depends, usually there's enough weight inside to keep the shed from moving. However you should probably try to anchor it down. I did this with some spikes that I linked to in the description. I will have a video on this at some point so subscribe for more.
😂 that made me laugh when you tripped over the string 😂
@@michealayoung1785 more than once. Tha is for the comment.
Where can you dump the ground you dug up?
In low spots around the yard where needed. Use the dug up dirt to fix areas that need soil in your yard.
How did you anchor shed to ground? TIA
@@eddyanderson7384 I will have a video on this, subscribe for more.
Looks great 👍
You don't have to remove the grass. Just the area the rails are placed. Weed cloth works great
Need to remove for a better stable base. Weed barrier is highly recommended.
how do you anchor on gravel?
video will be posted soon, subscribe to be notified.
Is it necessary to dig out the grass and put weed barrier down?
Yes, very important for stability etc.
Thanks for this.
You have no moisture barrier between the concrete and the wood?
Its sitting on a layer of stone that allows for drainage.