Forging an Auger, part 2: The cutting face and heat treat.
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this video, the second part of how I make an Auger: Creating the cutting face and lead-screw as well as heat treating the finished tool.
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you are not blacksmith" you are BUILDER OF EMPIRES".
With all the wannabe blacksmiths making RUclips videos, thinking they know what their doing, it's nice to see a real blacksmith like you.
I actually prefer the videos where people show their learning and their mistakes, it teaches more than certain steel(e) youtubers who are just showmen and never make a mistake (no so of course they just don't show them.) you can't learn anything from them.
Always in awe of folk who share their skills, knowledge & experience on here. Fantastic video, many thanks!
As someone commented in 1st video, I’m amazed your heat stays as long as it does with the small areas to work. You are good tool maker. Way harder than you make it look. Thank you
Awesome!
Wow. I don't think I've ever been more amazed by another artisan video before. I would have never thought hand forging a lead screw would be possible and more beautiful. I love all of your videos, but this is just stunning. Amazing work. You're truely an artist.
Wonderful pice of work.
I think you should make more vids as your care in the community job. But other than that I think the auger could have more of a twist on it to keep the angle from needing upsetting. Great job Mr Rowan.
This video gave me enough confidence to try it. I succeeded quite well. I managed to drill a shallow hole in hardwood with the unhardened tool. However the tip of the lead screw broke off the first time I tried it after hardening and tempering. I used the same method as you did with (not properly annealed) 1075 cutting faces. I couldn't see the tempering colors on the lead screw, only on the cutting faces. Seems like the tempering heat didn't get to the tip. The tip may also have gotten a bit too hot before quenching. Maybe it's a good idea to temper the leadscrew more than the cutting faces...
Great job Rowan. I noticed your safety boots are the same as mine! 🤣
Eine gelungene Arbeit mit viel Fleiß und Können. BRAVO!!!
Those little skirts on the edges of the cutting edge are to keep the hole smooth on the sides. Without them, the auger would tear the fibers along the hole, and you'd have pretty rough holes. So when sharpening an auger, always touch up those little skirts too.
Aren't the ears supposed to point in the same direction as the lead screw, though? On my "modern" bit-and-brace (well, "modern" compared to a hand-forged auger, even if I did inherit them from my grandfather) the ears cut the sides of the hold first, then the main screw of the bit digs out the wood between the cuts made by the ears.
Shawn Bean
Very likely, but they should still function as long as they're sharp.
Geez-O-Man that is amazingly difficult! Let's see here, schedule looks clear for the next month. Think I'll give it a couple go.
Bold and authentic real world project. Fullering lead screw simply brilliant. Bravo.
Spectacular, very well !!! and nice shoes!!! :)
Very interesting project and display!
I enjoy your videos, Rowan.Thanks!
Great video, really enjoing your presentation. Also had a little chuckle there when you said "I´m trying to use handtools only for this" and started using an angle grinder in the next shot.
Thats awesome, I just turn the handle part into a 1/2 hex shank then put that bad boy in an impact!
The screw point actually came out quite well using that very basic method.
Superb video, thank you Rowan!
It came out very nice.
Великолепная работа.
very nice waited to see how you would do the lead screw,, thank you for alowing use to see your skill
Very interesting video. I do believe the threaded tip is called the snail. Some of my better augers have a dual pitched snail which is a steep lead but double the thread for good gripping lead. Thanks for your videos.
Very nice RowAn
Bummer about the first piece but i am happy to see you finished the project for our enjoyment. great stuff M8. I enjoy seeing a lot of smithing videos but honestly for precision and level of difficulty this is amazing. i must like you facebook page
Very impressive. I own numerous antique augers, and I've always wondered how the screw was forged. Very informative video.
It would be interesting to see one made with the cutting spurs under the cutting edge toward the lead screw. I have a couple like that.
Молодец! Мастер! Особенно обувь понравилась! Like!
"I will only use hand tools" uses the angle grinder ;D
Amazing project, really good work and really beautiful video work👍
That's amazing!
Thank you for this video I have a project in the books I need something like this for.
Good show! 👏🏼 love your work and commentary 👌🏼
love it ! I will try out making one myself, next time I get my hands on a forge again. Thanks for sharing!
Absolutely incredible! Great video! So helpful ive never seen anything like this so thank you so much! Really eye opening at the simplicity of these tools amazing!
Marvelous.
very awesome, I love learning to make primitive tools!
I really enjoy your Videos Rowan , Great stuff ! , keep them coming!
Sorry you burned the first one! That's a lot of work. Awesome what you can do with a few bits of steel and some heat.
Thanks for the vid. I am always interested in hand tools made with hand tools.
Magic!
Damn good video!
thanks for sharing your information I was always wonder how augers bit are made
Good video
nice job
Nice job Mate!
Just amazing! Love it
That high pitch on the lead screw is good for softer woods, not oak c; try it out!
Very nice
Nice work !!
Rowen another awesome video.was wondering if something happened when no video showed up last week I'm glad everythings ok and the auger worked out fine
MUITO BOM.Você transmite liberdade de viver,desapego.
great video!
Yeah Part 2 Making Some Great Videos : )
yeah !
It is very historical
I was wondering where last week's video went. ;) Very nice; awesome to see old technology working.
How often do you end up having to redo things?
Augers with lead-screws are comparatively pretty recent. I was under the impression that they were generally not twisted at all, but instead made entirely with a triangle file. Before the lead-screw, you would have to start off the auger by chiseling into the wood. Quite a pain, if ya ask me!
That would take about 4000 years to file away into a helix.
just the lead screw? Hahaha, no, it only takes about 10 minutes. I kid you not, before the lathe and the tap, that's how screws were all made. (that's why woodworkers used to do all that crazy dovetail stuff and other complicated joinery: wood screws weren't exactly cheap!)
+verdatum I know I've seen pintels for hinges that were twisted, so it makes sense that a wood screw could be made the same way. I think most of the lead screws were probably twisted too, and then finished with a file.
Great Job thanks
Hi Rowan, fantastic work! i have a question or 2. is a gas forge cheaper in use then a ordinary one? and what kind of gas is to be used in them?
Not rowan, but I've seen natural gas and propane, the latter much more common. They can be incredibly efficient. They can be cheaper and easier to run than a coal forge, but they usually don't achieve as high of heat as coal would.
Rowan,
Are you familiar with the use of a chunk of plate with a hole in it to create a flue (over the coal)for localized heating? I've heard of it, but never actually met anyone familiar with the process. Thought about it when you heated the end of the auger to hammer out the lead screw.
Thanks again for you hard work both at the anvil and behind the camera/laptop etc!
AAR
I have used wood to localise heat, ie make a blow torch, which works very well. Plate tends to soak the heat away in my experience where wood insulates the forge and concentrates the effect
@TalRohan Interesting. I'll have to give that a try. I still use a piece of plate regularly to localize the heat for tempering and occasionally an oxy-acetylene torch when the project is being finicky!
@@albertrasch4793 have you seen df in the shop, he uses a cast iron frying pan with either sand or metal shavings for tempering ...in particular a spring which are a pain in the butt to get right. I use a pan occasionally for tempering but most things I make are too big for ovens or pans .
Great video Rowan. What degree is the cutting edge of the auger?
Is that how you would make a wood screw
Why this thing doesn't have a vertical cutter part? It tear out wood without it.
It's an older style of auger. The spurs on more recent augers are angled down scoring the rim of the hole before the main cutters remove the waste.
Опасно баллон с газом держать под печкой.
Love it but thought i would remind you that file cuts on the push only.
Таким буром сверлить надо месяц сало кушать.
4:15 "hand tools only" -- immediately uses electric angle grinder
picky...he's holding it in his hand.
@@TalRohan you could hold a rifle in your hand, but that doesn't make it a handgun
I have never been convinced that the lead screw does anything helpful. They are never big enough to actually pull the auger into the wood and just tear the wood where they go in. A simple spike would be as good.
I disagree, a huge advantage of the threads is that it controls very accurately the depth per full rotation. So on my augers a full turn goes 1/16th of an inch. I count as I'm boring the hole to get the same depth. The force one would have to apply for a spike would render an auger useless.
What kind of Englishman are you!!?? Using metric like some frog from the continent! Royal standard! Get your soul back at least 3/8" of it! Cheers!
thats racist.