I think that grain tear out was caused because this type of auger - without the spurs(or rather with side spurs), is made for drilling along the grain, for example when making a flute. For drilling across the grain like you did here works best the other auger with two sticking spurs, which cut the circle first so there is no tearout. It's like you have two types of saw teeth for different work (crosscutting, ripping).
Thats a pretty decent result, when you consider that softwoods were rarely used when these types of bit were first made, hardwoods are a lot easier to cut cleanly than softwoods.
Using that block of wood with the notch really is a good idea. I doubt I'll ever make my own auger, but I do sometimes sharpen commercial bits, and I'm going to remember that because I think it will help.
See the historic "Russel Jennings" style augers. They work great across and along the grain with no tear out. They have two little half discs that cut wood along the circumference of the hole. There is a book titled "complete modern blacksmith" or similar that describes hand forging process how to make one.
Watching it as you increased the speed made me think of a jig saw while you were filing. Ever thought of using a fine metal cutting jigsaw to cut the threads? And good job sir! Looks great
Kim, thanks, I already watched it, this comment is from a few weeks ago, before the spoon bit video. I love this channel. Maybe this suggestion prompted the spoon bit video? Dennis is good about talking with his commenters.
( context: l'm not a blacksmith, just watching videos) How you get temper temperature of 550C of sand when not measuring with modern meter? How did they did in the past?
Great job on the bit. One observation/ question, my high school auto shop teacher would always used to yell at us while we were using a file "it's a file not at saw." I was taught to file on the forward stroke only, but watching you, it looks like you use more of a sawing motion. The more I get into blacksmithing it would seem that if your working on the metal before it's hardened it wouldn't really dull the file. What are your thoughts on this? Do you do this out of habit, or do you only file this way when you know the type, or condition of the metal?
He is probably pulling back with much less down force applied. Just enough to keep the file in the groove so it does not have to be re-set each time I would think.
I had the same shop teachers in high school. I don't think their argument was really well thought out because they also taught us that draw filling was the only way to put a good finish on a piece?? If lightly dragging a file over the work will dull it then it has no chance to survive when the teeth need to dig into the metal and remove chips. I think they were more concerned about the irritating noise that a room full of kids would make while filling than they were about having to replace the files.
@@df-intheshop330 I had the same thing. I found that it's far easier to keep the same alignment/registration if I don't lift the file. Another school thing was putting hand planes on their side to 'protect' to cutting iron. That's another thing I've come to ignore. Great series, I love using augers in my brace, but they're all the spur down style.
@@michaelballinger6419 I think the hand plane on the side thing is a good habit to get into. I agree it isn't necessary in most shops but I grew up working on one bench that got used for everything so you never knew when you were going to get a nick in the blade. I still do it along with setting chisels bevel up. I actually think that got started when hand planes were on construction sites and had to be set down on the ground under sawhorses.
Denis I'm looking into hand forging some drill bits, is there another way to do this that will be effective with cutting metal? In essence I want to make a small gun bore for a flintlock made in a "Traditional" method. I can't seem to find anything on the internet about it either.
The colonial gunsmith video is the only one that i know of that takes you through the whole process of making a flintlock. ruclips.net/video/bAzJOULyx5c/видео.html So according to this video they welded the barrel over a mandrel and that gave him the starting hole that he needed to ream the bore to size.
Perhaps this RUclips video will help: ruclips.net/video/D43ZeYu9dnM/видео.html . I hope it will give you a basic idea of how to do it! Good luck! BTW, when you go to this video, there are several different other videos on home shop rifling!
The lead screw should match the rate of speed that the auger can penetrate the wood. So if a lead screw is trying to pull the auger in faster than it can cut it will simply strip the threads and no longer pull the auger into the wood. The type of tread you get by twisting a bar is far to aggressive to work well as a lead screw.
The mark of a great blacksmith dennis not only taught how to make a auger bit. But also how to make your own screws.
Am I the only one to think that auger bit could be in a museum? Awesome project and technique!
One side cuts. Pretty good 👍🏽
..Great Job Mr. Denis!! You Sir, are a True Craftsman...!!
This was a very interesting project
Your a genius!
I think that grain tear out was caused because this type of auger - without the spurs(or rather with side spurs), is made for drilling along the grain, for example when making a flute. For drilling across the grain like you did here works best the other auger with two sticking spurs, which cut the circle first so there is no tearout. It's like you have two types of saw teeth for different work (crosscutting, ripping).
Thats a pretty decent result, when you consider that softwoods were rarely used when these types of bit were first made, hardwoods are a lot easier to cut cleanly than softwoods.
Using that block of wood with the notch really is a good idea. I doubt I'll ever make my own auger, but I do sometimes sharpen commercial bits, and I'm going to remember that because I think it will help.
Great series Denis! I think I'll give it a go, I want to make a large auger (2inch), so that should be a bit easier. Thanks!
Very nice!
thank you
Great job! Thanks for video!
See the historic "Russel Jennings" style augers. They work great across and along the grain with no tear out. They have two little half discs that cut wood along the circumference of the hole. There is a book titled "complete modern blacksmith" or similar that describes hand forging process how to make one.
Watching it as you increased the speed made me think of a jig saw while you were filing. Ever thought of using a fine metal cutting jigsaw to cut the threads? And good job sir! Looks great
Very nice.
Nice job.
Great job Denis, I was wondering if you had ground the side teeth off the file you used to shape the lead screw to a cone.
No this is just a regular file. I was just being careful near the cutting edges.
good stuff
I always wanted to try and make a spoon bit for drilling wood, would you consider it? It would make a good video project.
Dennis has already done that. You can view that video, here: ruclips.net/video/IfAAzfoWHX4/видео.html&feature=player_embedded . Enjoy!
Kim, thanks, I already watched it, this comment is from a few weeks ago, before the spoon bit video. I love this channel. Maybe this suggestion prompted the spoon bit video? Dennis is good about talking with his commenters.
Wow!
( context: l'm not a blacksmith, just watching videos) How you get temper temperature of 550C of sand when not measuring with modern meter? How did they did in the past?
Thanks for the answer.
Great job on the bit. One observation/ question, my high school auto shop teacher would always used to yell at us while we were using a file "it's a file not at saw." I was taught to file on the forward stroke only, but watching you, it looks like you use more of a sawing motion. The more I get into blacksmithing it would seem that if your working on the metal before it's hardened it wouldn't really dull the file. What are your thoughts on this? Do you do this out of habit, or do you only file this way when you know the type, or condition of the metal?
He is probably pulling back with much less down force applied. Just enough to keep the file in the groove so it does not have to be re-set each time I would think.
I had the same shop teachers in high school. I don't think their argument was really well thought out because they also taught us that draw filling was the only way to put a good finish on a piece?? If lightly dragging a file over the work will dull it then it has no chance to survive when the teeth need to dig into the metal and remove chips. I think they were more concerned about the irritating noise that a room full of kids would make while filling than they were about having to replace the files.
@@df-intheshop330 I had the same thing. I found that it's far easier to keep the same alignment/registration if I don't lift the file. Another school thing was putting hand planes on their side to 'protect' to cutting iron. That's another thing I've come to ignore. Great series, I love using augers in my brace, but they're all the spur down style.
@@michaelballinger6419 I think the hand plane on the side thing is a good habit to get into. I agree it isn't necessary in most shops but I grew up working on one bench that got used for everything so you never knew when you were going to get a nick in the blade. I still do it along with setting chisels bevel up. I actually think that got started when hand planes were on construction sites and had to be set down on the ground under sawhorses.
Denis I'm looking into hand forging some drill bits, is there another way to do this that will be effective with cutting metal?
In essence I want to make a small gun bore for a flintlock made in a "Traditional" method. I can't seem to find anything on the internet about it either.
The colonial gunsmith video is the only one that i know of that takes you through the whole process of making a flintlock. ruclips.net/video/bAzJOULyx5c/видео.html So according to this video they welded the barrel over a mandrel and that gave him the starting hole that he needed to ream the bore to size.
Perhaps this RUclips video will help: ruclips.net/video/D43ZeYu9dnM/видео.html . I hope it will give you a basic idea of how to do it! Good luck! BTW, when you go to this video, there are several different other videos on home shop rifling!
How are you addressing the opposite end?
You are right I did forget to show that. It just has the standard square tapered point like any other auger.
I've seen where they twist a flat triangle tip to make a screw. Are there properties that make this better?
The lead screw should match the rate of speed that the auger can penetrate the wood. So if a lead screw is trying to pull the auger in faster than it can cut it will simply strip the threads and no longer pull the auger into the wood. The type of tread you get by twisting a bar is far to aggressive to work well as a lead screw.
Thanks for you response.
could you in theory use a die and tap set to do the screw part?
Taps & dies only cut a straight thread. This is a tapered thread.
Lots of them must had been runt by many dumbies
Thanks interesting