The Trainer #23: How To Repair Wiring and Wiring Connectors
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- Опубликовано: 25 окт 2012
- #wiringrepair #buttconnectors #wiringsplice #connectorrepair
Troubleshooting and repairing electrical problems is becoming a daily task for professional technicians. Often, the cause of the fault is a damaged connector or wiring harness. Its proper repair is critical to the correct operation of the electrical circuit it is a part of. Incorrect repair methods could actually create additional faults; faults that may or may not be readily apparent.
In the November 2012 edition of the Trainer, we take a look at common mistakes made that lead to circuit issues and how to prevent them. We'll also share some specific repair techniques you can use to correct bad connections and damaged wiring. Click this link to subscribe to Motor Age! bit.ly/MA_YT_freesub 
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Good point. Thanks for the comment!
Great tips. I'll be installing a new harness on my interior fan control of my Dakota pickup truck this weekend. Good to know about this sealing and weatherproofing ahead of time, just in case I need it.
Great Video Pete! Really appreciate your attention to detail and expertise. Thank you so much.
Voltage on the car will remain relatively stable. Resistance changes due to corrosion, loose connectors and other unwanted "thieves" in the circuit path. That does, indeed, cause current flow to drop impacting the ability of the circuit to work as designed.
Pretty good video Pete! The only thing that I like to mention is that at 15:10, you show crimping a terminal which has dual u-shaped sections. The front section gets crimped around the wire and rear section around the insulation. There are special crimp tools for just about every terminal, but they're expensive. As for the generic crimping tool, I just use it for cutting screws. From an electrical engineer who works for the largest connector and terminal manufacturer in the world. Thanks Pete!
Thank you Pete I enjoy watching your videos I've been learning a lot I did manage to wire my fuel injection to my injectors but I use the wrong wire so I'm redoing them I was remembering about resistance and current and I needed the right size proper wire thank you appreciate your videos and thank you very much very grateful for all the knowledge you have been sharing
SUBSTANTIAL Sir Pete Meier Motor Age
Thanks for sharing what you know with us. God bless you Sir Pete Meier Motor Age
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great - thanks! It's quite difficult to find quality instructionals like this, UK side.
Sir your wealth of experience in this area is deep and I love to tap from it thanks
I feel your frustration! The first thing to do is verify that this is your problem. You can do this easily by measuring the voltage drop across the circuit. (See our channel for several videos on this method of testing).
Cleaning/repair depends on the damage. If it's just oil-soaked, a good electrical contact cleaner may do the trick. Stabilant 22 is an excellent cleaner, but expensive so use it sparingly. Removal is dependent on the connector design, that varies quite a bit.
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Great presentation - and great info - So many videos have blokes Umming and Ahhing and no structure or scripting
+SJC Perth Hills Thanks!
Great video.
Good Info. But got to remember to put shrink wrap and other dodads that work with or instead on the shrink wrap. Other wise you need to cut the connection again and put shrink wrap where it will do the most good.
Thanks!
You should have stripped the wire to show proper crimp on open barrel terminal (some people will not hear what you said and just copy what you do). Also solder is not always a good choice because it will travel up there wire making it stiff and causing a potential break from vibration. That is why manufacturers have developed connectors with strain relief and wires that are flexible to take the vibration. A "properly" crimped connection is every bit as good as a soldered connection. I used to solder all my connections until I understood this concept.
Pete, hope you will be okay with this hurricane coming your way.
U make it look so easy lol
Pete, my problem is a step earlier. this removing the connector from the circuit device itself. I've encountered a number of different connector designs, each with its own release method. The current problem is a 14 pin connector connected to an A/C-coolant system control circuit in an 05 Golf. The shop manual doesn't show how. Also what is the source of the 'in line' wire stripper? I've been looking for one of those for a long time. Great detail! New (to me) info on more sophisticated connector
As an Aviation electronics Tech for C130 Hercules aircraft this method (piercing)is highly forbidden, due to the corrosion factor. Back probing is by Navy/ Mil standards recommended.Servicing aircraft at sea is more susceptible to corrosion. What the automotive industry needs is have "break open box" to access the hard to reach circuits like we have in the aviation industry.
Tx for the vid it is very informative.Heat shrink & solder type are what the Military recommends.
Great video. I have subscribed. Thanks for hosting this videos. Do you have a source link for the folks who make the terminal picks or tools to remove the wires from different connectors?
Check Amazon - I always got mine from the tool trucks. :-)
At 9:18 on this video, NO, I cannot see! I get the gist of it. I've been at a loss to understand how to take apart my Dodge Caravan electrical connectors. A bad oil leak from the valve cover gaskets has saturated the transmission wiring, and motor mount also looks degraded, and now the trans limping. I suspect wiring problem. It needs a good cleaning, possibly replacement wiring connectors. As a mere mortal I need all the help I can get on this. How do I clean electrical components? Thx, Nicole
Thanku sir
At 9:19, I absolutely can NOT see how to insert the release tool, does it go on the sides? (*edit-- I just watched this again, and again, and notice you say the tool goes in the notch at 3&6 o'clock. is that right? Or it the 9 & 3 o'clock positions? I can't see it! ) I like the rest so far, very much. Great info on using the piercing probe and especially sealing the holes-- how many techs actually seal them? Not too many in my experience... Thanks so much for this video. ... also at 20:19, you mention to make sure to have the Crimper properly oriented... but I can't see what you are doing and I don't really know HOW to properly Orient the crimper. In general, does the bump/protrusion of the crimper go on the middle part of the crimp fitting, and the ends of the crimp into the concave area of the crimp tool? Thanks again
Just like they say not to use solid wire, do not solder connections on automotive wire. Viration will break soldered connections. Use open barrel splices and proper open barrel terminals.
V=IR tells us as the resistance goes up the current goes down keeping a constant 12 volt. At the start u appear to be holding a spade connector but u call it a BUTT connector
I cought that also
Always said the MOST DANGEROUS PERSON IN THE WORLD is a truck driver with a toolbox equipped with a sharp pointed test light !
3M Scotchkote FD Coating , designed for underground electrical burial splices . 15 fd. oz. can . $55.00 Amazon 1/30/24
No ôn kin
No ôn kink
You are talkative
Thank you?? It's an old video... :-)
-Motor Age: This would be fairly good, *IF,* it were in _IN FOCUS!_
It would seem apparent that the video editor would check that factor, among others, *_before_* releasing the video for public consumption, *_ya THINK?_*
Cut me some slack, Nate...thus was made a long time ago with an SD camera. I was just learning the ropes! 😁
@@MotorAgeMagazine : That being the case, might it not be advisable to add an intro to the video explaining why the _focus_ is *so poor?*
That said, I've been watching YT videos for a _long, long time_ , given my _advanced yrs_ , well before the advent of hi-def video and other such equipment. Quite a number of those _"old videos"_ were presented at 360p and were in _perfect focus_ - but, _if you can't take the heat, best get out of the kitchen_ .
@@nknatewood8226 And if you don't like my videos, don't watch them. But thanks for the expert critique.
@@MotorAgeMagazine : You *_are_* "most welcome!" And, you may rest assured, I *_won't!_*
Sorry, but you need to understand crimping tools better, you are showing a yellow crimp being crimped in the blue segment of crimper, they are all colour coded so you crimp correctly. Red is 1.5mm copper cable, blue is 2.5mm cable and yellow is for 4-6mm, equally as pointed out by others, the ojtward end gets crimped onto insulation, this because if cables are stretched, sparkys phlling cables bac n forwards, this crimp on insulation ensures the insulation is not pulled, thereby leaving expoed LIVE copper. Get a ratchet crimper if possible, they are designed to release after correct pressure applied. Sorry, for lecture.
Need to do a better job , perhaps enlist extra help on the camera filming end or even use a go pro , so that we can actually see what you're doing. As someone with no experience trying hard to learn, it's extremely frustrating when I can't see what, how, and where your plugging something I can just see your hand. That's not helpful at all. Otherwise your videos would be helpful and informative.
This is a bad video. Every time the instructor tries to show something he immediately takes the item out of frame or gets his hands in the view of the object he's trying to show, or doesn't turn the object around to show the point he's trying to make. Or the camera man is terrible at his job. One of the two.
james Park Early effort...and we've learned a lot since this video was made. Try looking at our latest!
I thought your video was excellent until about 3:32 you had a [demented] Joe Biden ad come on.
Hey, we don't control the ads...lol