Thanks Paul, I know a few things to make me dangerous but I'm still learning too.. It's a lost art, tuning a brushed motor. These days, You can't really buy a good new motor and used ones are just that, used (some are great but cost upwards of 400 bucks).. I just bought what I thought was an 8 Turn Reedy Ti motor but ended up with just a Ti can, the endbell and Armature were Trinity... It's not a good mix, and by that I mean it wasn't practice to use an Epic arm in a Yokomo can, same for the endbell.... The arm was a 12x3, the can was marked 8T.. My fault for not seeing the endbell before buying it but it does run, just not as fast as I wanted it to.
Hey Bob, that was a nice test, I was hoping to have performed the same demonstration on a standard 540 silver can some months ago, but due to the unique bearing size of the standard silver can, I couldn’t locate the correct bearing size(s). 😊 I could see that from you rpm the bushings and bearing where around the same 28400 rpm, but I could hear the bearings sounded a lot smoother and the motor tested seemed to be able to spin up more efficiently. I would suspect that this would equate to a higher speed when the motors are under load on the RC car 🤔🧐 it will be interesting to see the motor on your Holiday Buggy and seem how it performs under real world driving conditions. 😊😊best wishes to you and the family 😎😉😊
Hey John, Thanks man... I remember you trying that, thing is, those sealed cans use an odd size bushing(s) and the hard part is taking them apart and getting them back together, I think the older cans were thicker and had better crimps on the endbell. As I said then, when I tried it, I realized it wasn't worth the effort.
Well mate, that proves the bearings help it spin a little faster on "no load". But I would suspect that it will make even more difference to the revs when under load as there should be less friction - that's my guess anyways!
Only time will tell my friend (I still don't have the motor in the buggy). I really need to get my butt back out and do more runs... I have a few to still do.. The Yaris, Bush Pig, Fox, Brushless Clod (issue still not fixed), DT-02 speed run, Holiday Buggy & The Blockhead Motors Wild One with the Tamiya TZ motor installed.
@@MarkBryanRC It's my lack of enthusiasm holding me back, I'm finding RC not as fun to run like I did when I was younger (late 40's to early 50's)... I'm not dealing with the crap your dealing with...
Cool video Bob! I've upgraded all 6 of my superstock motors to bearings...... and, what a real cnut of a job it is getting them seated might I add!! They just want to stick to the magnets inside the can..... and boy those end bells are as tight as a nuns chuff when it comes to pushing them home! 😂 But, I've gained 1mph in speed on most models that I tested..... they also seem to stop the motors getting quite as hot, and those superstocks do like to heat up! A highly recommend procedure if you ask me. I like to take my brushed motors apart for a clean and check every winter, which is the perfect opportunity to add the bearings! 👍 👍 👍
You can use a Tamiya 4-way wrench (cross-wrench, spanner) to help seat the bearing into the can, if need be, cut the 2 small "arms" off so they don't smack the magnets (I find it helps line up everything with them in place). As for the endbell, man, on the 3 I did, they all popped out (the bushings) really easy and the bearings went in like a well lube..... Never mind all that, it was easy... For maintenance on brushed motors, I still follow the old racing rules, clean, lube and new brushes after 5 to 10 runs (If I was racings, new brushes after every 3 runs). True the comm after every 20 to 30 runs (every 5 runs in a race motor). My problem is, It's hard to find RC motor cleaner in the States or really good/race quality brushes (high silver content) or even the good spec class brushes (hard compound/economy brushes). So much more to brushed motors no time to type it... Bottom line, a clean motor with new (newer) brushes is a happy motor.... Heat is the enemy. motor temps over 200 degrees F (93.3 C) or higher will cook a brushed motor.. I try to keep mine under 180 degrees F if I can.. Some people they can run a brushed motor pack after pack (Nimh, Lipo, whatever) like they would a brushless motor then bitch cause the motor burned out or stopped working.. These types of people just wanna plug in a pack and go, too lazy to do any "leg" work to maintain a motor or lack the brains to do so.
@@UncleBobsRC Very wise words mate..... and totally agree with everything that you said! Our generation that grew up with this tech are fairly clued up..... I have quite decent knowledge of brushed stuff from racing back in the late eighties /early nineties, and learned how to look after my gear properly (money was tight back then!) It's the whole brushless thing that I haven't got a clue about..... and very rarely dabble in that area! 😂 Cheers for the top tips regarding the box wrench..... I will definitely try that next time buddy! Nice one mate! 👍 👍 👍 😊
I have a TZ in my TT02 it was just 20 USD in Japan pretty cheap. I don't think foe the 500rpm I would bother doing the bearings though it would last longer I'm sure.
👍 getting into brushed motor lots of great learning
Thanks Paul, I know a few things to make me dangerous but I'm still learning too.. It's a lost art, tuning a brushed motor. These days, You can't really buy a good new motor and used ones are just that, used (some are great but cost upwards of 400 bucks).. I just bought what I thought was an 8 Turn Reedy Ti motor but ended up with just a Ti can, the endbell and Armature were Trinity... It's not a good mix, and by that I mean it wasn't practice to use an Epic arm in a Yokomo can, same for the endbell.... The arm was a 12x3, the can was marked 8T.. My fault for not seeing the endbell before buying it but it does run, just not as fast as I wanted it to.
Hey Bob, that was a nice test, I was hoping to have performed the same demonstration on a standard 540 silver can some months ago, but due to the unique bearing size of the standard silver can, I couldn’t locate the correct bearing size(s). 😊 I could see that from you rpm the bushings and bearing where around the same 28400 rpm, but I could hear the bearings sounded a lot smoother and the motor tested seemed to be able to spin up more efficiently. I would suspect that this would equate to a higher speed when the motors are under load on the RC car 🤔🧐 it will be interesting to see the motor on your Holiday Buggy and seem how it performs under real world driving conditions. 😊😊best wishes to you and the family 😎😉😊
Hey John, Thanks man... I remember you trying that, thing is, those sealed cans use an odd size bushing(s) and the hard part is taking them apart and getting them back together, I think the older cans were thicker and had better crimps on the endbell. As I said then, when I tried it, I realized it wasn't worth the effort.
Well mate, that proves the bearings help it spin a little faster on "no load". But I would suspect that it will make even more difference to the revs when under load as there should be less friction - that's my guess anyways!
Only time will tell my friend (I still don't have the motor in the buggy). I really need to get my butt back out and do more runs... I have a few to still do.. The Yaris, Bush Pig, Fox, Brushless Clod (issue still not fixed), DT-02 speed run, Holiday Buggy & The Blockhead Motors Wild One with the Tamiya TZ motor installed.
@@UncleBobsRC You and me both, brother. But hey, we both have a few "issues" to deal with - RC can wait another day...
@@MarkBryanRC It's my lack of enthusiasm holding me back, I'm finding RC not as fun to run like I did when I was younger (late 40's to early 50's)... I'm not dealing with the crap your dealing with...
Cool video Bob!
I've upgraded all 6 of my superstock motors to bearings...... and, what a real cnut of a job it is getting them seated might I add!!
They just want to stick to the magnets inside the can..... and boy those end bells are as tight as a nuns chuff when it comes to pushing them home! 😂
But, I've gained 1mph in speed on most models that I tested..... they also seem to stop the motors getting quite as hot, and those superstocks do like to heat up!
A highly recommend procedure if you ask me.
I like to take my brushed motors apart for a clean and check every winter, which is the perfect opportunity to add the bearings!
👍 👍 👍
You can use a Tamiya 4-way wrench (cross-wrench, spanner) to help seat the bearing into the can, if need be, cut the 2 small "arms" off so they don't smack the magnets (I find it helps line up everything with them in place). As for the endbell, man, on the 3 I did, they all popped out (the bushings) really easy and the bearings went in like a well lube..... Never mind all that, it was easy... For maintenance on brushed motors, I still follow the old racing rules, clean, lube and new brushes after 5 to 10 runs (If I was racings, new brushes after every 3 runs). True the comm after every 20 to 30 runs (every 5 runs in a race motor). My problem is, It's hard to find RC motor cleaner in the States or really good/race quality brushes (high silver content) or even the good spec class brushes (hard compound/economy brushes). So much more to brushed motors no time to type it... Bottom line, a clean motor with new (newer) brushes is a happy motor.... Heat is the enemy. motor temps over 200 degrees F (93.3 C) or higher will cook a brushed motor.. I try to keep mine under 180 degrees F if I can.. Some people they can run a brushed motor pack after pack (Nimh, Lipo, whatever) like they would a brushless motor then bitch cause the motor burned out or stopped working.. These types of people just wanna plug in a pack and go, too lazy to do any "leg" work to maintain a motor or lack the brains to do so.
@@UncleBobsRC
Very wise words mate..... and totally agree with everything that you said!
Our generation that grew up with this tech are fairly clued up..... I have quite decent knowledge of brushed stuff from racing back in the late eighties /early nineties, and learned how to look after my gear properly (money was tight back then!)
It's the whole brushless thing that I haven't got a clue about..... and very rarely dabble in that area! 😂
Cheers for the top tips regarding the box wrench..... I will definitely try that next time buddy!
Nice one mate! 👍 👍 👍 😊
Nice work and good explanations
Thanks Dirk!!!!
Nice one Bob! Great comparison!
👍😊
Thanks Jeremy, can you tell I was getting tired of re-recording this??? LOL
Great work bud good info there. I'm not sure if it will be any faster but I bet run time goes up.
Thanks Man!!!!
I have a TZ in my TT02 it was just 20 USD in Japan pretty cheap. I don't think foe the 500rpm I would bother doing the bearings though it would last longer I'm sure.
Nice comparison! What machine is this?
Hey Joe, it's an old APS Racing Dyno-Charger.. Like most old cool things, it's no longer made (like Epic, Orion, Yokomo, Top Brushed motors).
it definitely spun faster and sounded smoother.
I really couldn't tell... However, it should be a bit more efficient.