Wow Bob, a very interesting and very informative video. You really know what you're doing with these motors and have got some cool kit to work on them and measure them with! I'm amazed at how well the motor spins with the advance removed. Should be great in the clod, I would imagine the torque is increased over the standard setting, too, just what you want on a heavy truck! Great job, brother, keep 'em coming! Cheers! :O)
Thanks Brother, I did go a bit fast but I didn't want an hour long video. I do have 12 old stock motors here that I'm working on too (mostly old Trinity Green Machines "1993"), they are not "rebuildable" but can change the brushes. Maybe my next Clod build will be brushless motors.
Very cool! I should hunt down some of these tools before they are all gone! I do like the motor checker you have as well, I should invest in one too just to satisfy my curiosity of how fast things actually go compared to what they claim! Very cool and informative video bud, I appreciate it!
Thanks Addam, It's a charger too but no longer made. Trinity had a very nice dyno and they pop up every now and then for sale but not cheap (I forget what they called it, monster something I think). To think I'm doing all this just to put those motors in the Gray Clod (I think the color of the motors look great for it and blue & black motors wires just might put it over the edge). Thanks for the view & comment my friend!!
Thanks Mike, It's all from watching, learning & doing.... However, I'm no expert. All the years of running Clods with mod motors, I know you simply can't just swap motor wires for the rear gearbox (this is old news, very old) and have it work right. All that said, I did this work just to put those motors in my Gray Edition Clod (that wont see much running) because I like they way the colors looked together. Thanks for watching & the comment!!!
Thanks Fil!!! The main thing is to keep them at zero degrees timing and rotating the rear motor endbell 180 degrees... All the tricks I picked (not all) when I raced Clods back in the day, nowadays, they are brushless but limited to 2S lipo packs.
@@UncleBobsRC I ran dual 6900kv Castles with 2 x Sidewinder 3 esc's on my mod-Clod, back in the day. It was waaay too much! Haha! So I bumped it back to 15T HPI Firebolts. But I'd love to try your BZ trick!
@@poorboysrc Lol Awesome!!!! When I raced, it was before the surge of brushless, back in the days when you had to build your own 8, 9 or even 10 cell pack.
@@UncleBobsRC the steroids weren't strong enough. Usually they give me a tapered run that gets stronger then tapers off each day. She sent me a straight 20 MG dose for 5 days. I wrote to my doctor at tge VA to see what she wants to do next because I'm in misery...
To do this kind of work on camera is very difficult so well done on taking us through the process. Great video and talking us through I was engaged all the way. 👍🏻
@@UncleBobsRC I got a GoPro recently so need to get used to it. I don't have the right set up for desk builds to be honest. I prefer doing running video's myself but viewers like the tutorials I think.
@@UncleBobsRC yupp, I know this and have planned the RC4WD motors, not timed and thanks to Steve from Shen RC for the tip, for my next Clod project. But these high turning motors tease me more. So I'm looking forwar how the improbve the running.
How did these motors run in your clod? Did you do a video of it running? I looked but didn't see one. Do you think this is a good upgrade? I'm looking for replacement motors for my clod right now. EDIT; Nevermind, I just saw the video of it running. Runs good!
You are the second person who shows the installation of the metal can bearing and it goes in with ease or it was hard as hell because you did not show how to seat the bearings.
I didn't show it because I was using a metal punch, not a good tool for the job... My wife went and used my wood 3/8" dowel I normally use to seat bearings in the can... It is not hard to seat them just make sure they are square (fully seated). A hair dryer helps expand the can where the bearing goes just to make it a bit easier.. Remember, light taps with a hammer, no need to go Thor on bearings..
In a Clod or the older dual motor Kyosho trucks USA-1, Hi-Rider Vette, Titan...). With the timing built into the motors, one is going to spin faster than the other, either pushing or pulling the other axle along... Simply swapping the motor wires (leads, cables or what ever people call them) will not work on a timind motor, the timing then would be too far retarted and get very hot faster.. Addam over at Addams Playground did a video with his Clod using Tamiya Torque Tuned motors, here's the link, ruclips.net/video/X0Vall_VLQg/видео.htmlsi=2Bvyk2fu5HdMEQC9
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Wow Bob, a very interesting and very informative video. You really know what you're doing with these motors and have got some cool kit to work on them and measure them with! I'm amazed at how well the motor spins with the advance removed. Should be great in the clod, I would imagine the torque is increased over the standard setting, too, just what you want on a heavy truck! Great job, brother, keep 'em coming! Cheers! :O)
Thanks Brother, I did go a bit fast but I didn't want an hour long video. I do have 12 old stock motors here that I'm working on too (mostly old Trinity Green Machines "1993"), they are not "rebuildable" but can change the brushes. Maybe my next Clod build will be brushless motors.
Very cool! I should hunt down some of these tools before they are all gone! I do like the motor checker you have as well, I should invest in one too just to satisfy my curiosity of how fast things actually go compared to what they claim! Very cool and informative video bud, I appreciate it!
Thanks Addam, It's a charger too but no longer made. Trinity had a very nice dyno and they pop up every now and then for sale but not cheap (I forget what they called it, monster something I think). To think I'm doing all this just to put those motors in the Gray Clod (I think the color of the motors look great for it and blue & black motors wires just might put it over the edge). Thanks for the view & comment my friend!!
Amazing amount of knowledge and skills. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike, It's all from watching, learning & doing.... However, I'm no expert. All the years of running Clods with mod motors, I know you simply can't just swap motor wires for the rear gearbox (this is old news, very old) and have it work right. All that said, I did this work just to put those motors in my Gray Edition Clod (that wont see much running) because I like they way the colors looked together. Thanks for watching & the comment!!!
Great video, Bob. I didn't know you could do this with these motors, I'd love to try this out on my Clod some time.
Thanks Fil!!! The main thing is to keep them at zero degrees timing and rotating the rear motor endbell 180 degrees... All the tricks I picked (not all) when I raced Clods back in the day, nowadays, they are brushless but limited to 2S lipo packs.
@@UncleBobsRC I ran dual 6900kv Castles with 2 x Sidewinder 3 esc's on my mod-Clod, back in the day. It was waaay too much! Haha! So I bumped it back to 15T HPI Firebolts. But I'd love to try your BZ trick!
@@poorboysrc Lol Awesome!!!! When I raced, it was before the surge of brushless, back in the days when you had to build your own 8, 9 or even 10 cell pack.
Thank you for your sharing this information.
Thank You for viewing & the comment!!!!
Very cool instructional video Bob! I'm sure it helps a lot of people out here! Great stuff brother! 💯 🤜 🤛
Thanks Bob, I did all this just to put those motors in a Clod. How you feeling, better I hope.
@@UncleBobsRC the steroids weren't strong enough. Usually they give me a tapered run that gets stronger then tapers off each day. She sent me a straight 20 MG dose for 5 days. I wrote to my doctor at tge VA to see what she wants to do next because I'm in misery...
@@riffraffsrc Lets hope it works man!! I only get gout between my legs every now and then, but it don't hurt. LOL
To do this kind of work on camera is very difficult so well done on taking us through the process. Great video and talking us through I was engaged all the way. 👍🏻
Thanks Damien, it is very hard to stay in frame and being able to show what I was doing, I have struggles with that (I blame my old GoPro).
@@UncleBobsRC I got a GoPro recently so need to get used to it. I don't have the right set up for desk builds to be honest. I prefer doing running video's myself but viewers like the tutorials I think.
With the narration though even when it did go off frame a bit you talked us through 👍🏻 it was a great video
@@DustyFingersRC I used a Hero5 Black and it's just screwed onto a 2x4 that's anchored to the wall. LOL
@@DustyFingersRC Thanks Man!!!
Very well explained. Great video.
Thanks man, I was going a bit fast but I didn't want an hour long video.
@@UncleBobsRC Now I haven't the tools, but I paid attention on the result😉
@@RCBirds It's all in the timing for a Clod Buster, that, and one motor in reverse (not done by swapping the motor wires around).
@@UncleBobsRC yupp, I know this and have planned the RC4WD motors, not timed and thanks to Steve from Shen RC for the tip, for my next Clod project. But these high turning motors tease me more. So I'm looking forwar how the improbve the running.
@@RCBirds AWESOME!!!
Good info here.. would like to have a motor tester like that
Thanks Thad, sadly, it's no longer made, It's also a charger. I'm just doing all this to put those motors in my Gray Clod..
How did these motors run in your clod? Did you do a video of it running? I looked but didn't see one. Do you think this is a good upgrade? I'm looking for replacement motors for my clod right now.
EDIT; Nevermind, I just saw the video of it running. Runs good!
Thanks man... They need a little work to work in a Clod but well worth the effort to do so.. Not much faster but a ton of torque..
You are the second person who shows the installation of the metal can bearing and it goes in with ease or it was hard as hell because you did not show how to seat the bearings.
I didn't show it because I was using a metal punch, not a good tool for the job... My wife went and used my wood 3/8" dowel I normally use to seat bearings in the can... It is not hard to seat them just make sure they are square (fully seated). A hair dryer helps expand the can where the bearing goes just to make it a bit easier.. Remember, light taps with a hammer, no need to go Thor on bearings..
👍🏽 👌🏽
Thanks brother!!!!
What happens if i try running them without doing this?
In a Clod or the older dual motor Kyosho trucks USA-1, Hi-Rider Vette, Titan...). With the timing built into the motors, one is going to spin faster than the other, either pushing or pulling the other axle along... Simply swapping the motor wires (leads, cables or what ever people call them) will not work on a timind motor, the timing then would be too far retarted and get very hot faster.. Addam over at Addams Playground did a video with his Clod using Tamiya Torque Tuned motors, here's the link, ruclips.net/video/X0Vall_VLQg/видео.htmlsi=2Bvyk2fu5HdMEQC9
JUST REMOVE THE KEY TAB AND SPIN THE ENDBELL TO 0
Yup, I been working with and on Brushed RC motors for over 30 years..... Thanks for the view & comment.