This has been by far the best video that I have seen on the 6.0 power stroke removal and replacement. Great detail and extremely well put together video coverage.
A few pointers. The starter does not need to come out. It is not bolted to the trans bellhousing. It bolts to the adapter plate. Only the wires need taken off. I see everyone take it out and there's no reason to until after you've got the engine out. There's an access hole on the drivers side which can be reached from the front with a long extension that makes taking the torque converter bolts out very easy. No need to take intake, exhaust, and all that other stuff out. The turbo is the only thing that needs to be removed from the top. Take your hoist chain and shorten it so that the hook is up by the arm, allowing the hoist arm to be by the engine. When you lift the engine slightly, remove both engine mounts fully from the frame and engine. That allows the engine to come forward a couple inches to clear the trans. If you remove the three a/c compressor bolts, it's very easy to just take it out and access the engine mount bolts on the pass side. I've seen several videos where people say don't remove the mounts and only take the frame nuts off. That's just silly when the mounts allows so much room for the engine to move when removed. Use a rachet strap(a orange hf one works fine)to attach to the exhaust pipe or other mount place behind where the turbo sits, run the strap though a chain hole and back to an arm extension bolt hole to attach the other end of the rachet. Then rotate the engine forward, lower the front of the engine(engine mounts removed makes this easy), as you lift and pull forward. This allows the oil pan to clear the trans line/cross member. Kinda hard to imagine but fully makes sense and works if you get what I'm saying. I've seen people use a leveler but to me its harder than using a rachet strap. I've done it like this several times. Detach the wiring and plastic cowl running across the top. Of course, your going to make a mess with coolant if you don't plug the holes. And no, I don't have a video showing all this because everyone is doing camera magic with the time. It isn't a two hour job like I heard a few claim. This will take you all day, if not all weekend. The excursion is def harder as the F350-550s you can lift the cab slightly to gain more room to lift the engine. Another note, if you lift the cab a little, you do not have to take the trans linkage, grounds or o2 wires off. You only need to lift the cab a few inches to give ample cowl space. But taking the excursion cab up is def more time consuming that an F series. I usually take the very front cab bolts out and the ones under the front floor boards. But all the rest only get loosened which allows the cab to not move backwards and easy to tighten back down. Only a few inches is needed if you decide to go this route. I have completely removed the cab/cabin on both F series and excursions and find its just less time to not lift the cab. I have a lift and it's just my opinion after doing it many times. I'd rather not run the bill up on the customer just to make taking the mains out a little easier. You can use a 5 foot extension with a swivel and get all the bellhousing bolts out from going in behind the transmission. And even with a lift, if you don't have a real high lift, the front body cross member doesn't allow much space for your hoist and you'll have an issue getting the engine out. I'll shut up now.
I did a build similar to yours on my 2006 crew cab. I would recommend new glow plug harness and GPCM as well with those glow plugs. Great video by the way
not going to lie I've always wondered if this way was really possible as I don't have any reliable mechanics in Miami & wouldn't want my cab taken off. nice to see I can do it myself. solid video man !!
great video! very well done. great to see a version of pulling this motor out through the front instead of lifting the cab (which is nuts) and near impossible for DIY'ers
Just watched both your videos on the 6.0 pull and rebuild and it has given me the confidence to do the same to my 2006 f350 Can’t wait to see part 3 on the going back in with it Do you feel that pulling the front off the truck is about the same work as pulling the cab as I don’t have a 2 post lift but I was thinking on buying one until I watched your videos.
Thank you part 3 will be out soon just been super busy lately and haven’t gotten around to editing the rest of the videos. A lot of people say pulling the cab off is way easier but since mine is the excursion it’s not as simple. I prefer pulling the whole motor that way I can pull oil pan and lower end to replace the bed plate gaskets. Originally I was just going to do new heads with the cab on but decided to pull the whole thing since I needed to do lifters and I’m sure glad I did because not sure if you saw but one of my main bolt head had broken off and was laying in the bottom of the oil pan for who knows how long and the bolt was working it’s way loose. It’s really not as big of a job as people make it sound with a helping hand you can have the motor pulled in a couple hours.
Thanks for the video, I have a 05 F350 I am getting ready to start, and this will be a big help. I do have a question though (forgive me if this is covered in another video I haven't made it through all of them yet) with the new turbo , cam , and injectors what tuner are you running and where did the tune come from?
If your running an oem oil filter make sure to take the ring of death out of the top of the oil filter stand pipe... They hold down the filter bypass valve not used by the aftermarket filter companies. The reason they use the ring of death is to get the standpipe to go down when the filter is installed. A catch can wont keep your egr valve cleaner. The junk thats in it is a combination of the normal oil thats in the cac system and the soot that comes out of your egr cooler from the exhaust.. You can help gunk build on the valve by raising your cetane levels of your fuel.
Hey man I am taking out my engine in my 6.0 and I was just wondering where your putting all your parts like how you keep everything sorted or if you got any tips to help when I put everything back together
I just kind of line them up and try to put every bolt back in the hole if possible. A lot of people just setup a separate table and line everything up.
When I pulled my engine I used a heavy duty steel plate with a heavy duty eyelet welded to the steel plate which was bolted down using the turbo pedestal bolt holes. Found that to be better than using the provided hook points.
Im thinking about doing this work to my 04, f250. I just have some doubt as I prob have 3 months experience messing around with cars; brakes parts mainly and fuel line. Was this the first engine that you pulled ?
Still cheaper than a new vehicle. I’m trying to add upgrades to my stock 6.0 but I don’t have the 14k to drop all at once for that. Any suggestions on what to start with for reliability/500hp performance? I was thinking bigger injectors, turbo, and a tune to start? New to this upgrade stuff.
I'd delete all that shit regardless of if the state has "emissions" and get the tickets dismissed every time because there's NO crime committed... Those tickets are administrative so all you gotta do is send a letter to the Court Clerk state "Nature and Cause" of the crime and they will get it dismissed before it goes to the court. Article 1 courts do not have the same power as Article 3 courts.
OK, maybe I missed it or you didn't say: Where is the talk about pistons, piston rings, connecting rods and bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, front and rear main seals......etc. ? Your engine has 220K miles and you are pulling the engine from the truck, are you NOT going to be rebuilding the lower end ?? In my opinion that would be a HUGE mistake. If the engine has that many miles and you are pulling it from the truck, a complete rebuild (most likely involving a machine shop) would be the smart thing to do. I'm about 3/4 of the way thru all of that myself. I NEVER want to pull this engine again. If the engine is out, it would be foolish not to do a complete rebuild.
You are entitled to your own opinions. The bottom end on the 6.0 is stout from the factory and rarely has any issues in my opinion. I’ve seen plenty of 6.0’s with 400k-500k miles on the original pistons, rings, main and cam bearings. Yes mine does have higher milage but I know the history of it and how it was maintained, I’ve had it since it was almost new and it wasn’t abused like most 6.0’s that’s why I was able to get 220k out of the factory head gaskets. Before the teardown I had excellent compression and zero blow by. Talked to many shops locally and online that throw new heads, lifters, and pushrods on without touching the bottom end all the time with well over 200k on them and have zero issues. Most of my kids are grown now and driving so this is not our daily driver anymore mainly just a weekend warrior. So it will probably be another 10 years before I put another 100k miles on it. With proper maintenance I don’t see why my bottom end wouldn’t last another 200k or more. Honestly I don’t think this engine is that hard to pull with a helping hand you can have it out and on a stand in a few hours.
I agree as you saw in the video I wasn’t to happy about that. I called around to multiple places locally and online with that part number you provided and everyone I talked to checked to see if it was the china or USA and they were all the china ones since the new part number supersedes that part number. I think there’s a few left out there but are hard to find.
This video is the best step-by-step that I’ve seen in a long time camera angles are great. Good job guy.
Man great video. Angles of the camera, tips while removing stuff. Not just another 30 min video. It’s long but so thorough. Great job and thank you. 🙏
This has been by far the best video that I have seen on the 6.0 power stroke removal and replacement. Great detail and extremely well put together video coverage.
I also have a EX with a 6.0. That's a big project without a lift, great job and great video.
A few pointers. The starter does not need to come out. It is not bolted to the trans bellhousing. It bolts to the adapter plate. Only the wires need taken off. I see everyone take it out and there's no reason to until after you've got the engine out.
There's an access hole on the drivers side which can be reached from the front with a long extension that makes taking the torque converter bolts out very easy. No need to take intake, exhaust, and all that other stuff out. The turbo is the only thing that needs to be removed from the top.
Take your hoist chain and shorten it so that the hook is up by the arm, allowing the hoist arm to be by the engine. When you lift the engine slightly, remove both engine mounts fully from the frame and engine. That allows the engine to come forward a couple inches to clear the trans. If you remove the three a/c compressor bolts, it's very easy to just take it out and access the engine mount bolts on the pass side. I've seen several videos where people say don't remove the mounts and only take the frame nuts off. That's just silly when the mounts allows so much room for the engine to move when removed.
Use a rachet strap(a orange hf one works fine)to attach to the exhaust pipe or other mount place behind where the turbo sits, run the strap though a chain hole and back to an arm extension bolt hole to attach the other end of the rachet. Then rotate the engine forward, lower the front of the engine(engine mounts removed makes this easy), as you lift and pull forward. This allows the oil pan to clear the trans line/cross member. Kinda hard to imagine but fully makes sense and works if you get what I'm saying.
I've seen people use a leveler but to me its harder than using a rachet strap. I've done it like this several times. Detach the wiring and plastic cowl running across the top. Of course, your going to make a mess with coolant if you don't plug the holes.
And no, I don't have a video showing all this because everyone is doing camera magic with the time. It isn't a two hour job like I heard a few claim. This will take you all day, if not all weekend. The excursion is def harder as the F350-550s you can lift the cab slightly to gain more room to lift the engine.
Another note, if you lift the cab a little, you do not have to take the trans linkage, grounds or o2 wires off. You only need to lift the cab a few inches to give ample cowl space. But taking the excursion cab up is def more time consuming that an F series. I usually take the very front cab bolts out and the ones under the front floor boards. But all the rest only get loosened which allows the cab to not move backwards and easy to tighten back down. Only a few inches is needed if you decide to go this route.
I have completely removed the cab/cabin on both F series and excursions and find its just less time to not lift the cab. I have a lift and it's just my opinion after doing it many times. I'd rather not run the bill up on the customer just to make taking the mains out a little easier. You can use a 5 foot extension with a swivel and get all the bellhousing bolts out from going in behind the transmission. And even with a lift, if you don't have a real high lift, the front body cross member doesn't allow much space for your hoist and you'll have an issue getting the engine out.
I'll shut up now.
Wow, this is the most comprehensive detail video I have seen so far .... and I don't even own a 6.0..... (as yet 🙏🙏) Great job!!! Awesome bro
Videos like this are absolutely priceless. Thank you for the knowledge and time making this, helps a lot
I commented on your second series
Fixing to pull mine out Monday and start ordering parts. Good job!!
Good luck!
I did a build similar to yours on my 2006 crew cab. I would recommend new glow plug harness and GPCM as well with those glow plugs. Great video by the way
I seen all 6.0 powerstroke videos and this is the best video so far
not going to lie I've always wondered if this way was really possible as I don't have any reliable mechanics in Miami & wouldn't want my cab taken off. nice to see I can do it myself. solid video man !!
You deserve way more views. Awesome video. Looking forward to owning one next summer
Great and timely video - doing the same procedure as we speak. Thanks a bunch.
Great video, first time I've seen it done. Thanks, got an 06 with 194k may be trying it myself.
I hope to one day reach this level of skill! Thanks for sharing your knowledge as always!
great video! very well done. great to see a version of pulling this motor out through the front instead of lifting the cab (which is nuts) and near impossible for DIY'ers
Thank you I find this way of easier plus with the engine out you can replace the known to leak bed plate and oil pan gasket with ease.
Good video man FYI I find it less stressful getting at those manifold up pipe bolts and nuts with a 1/4 impact and extentions and swivel
Thanks for the tip.
I’m getting ready to do heads on my 05 as well very helpful video thanks !!
Thanks for the video, will be attempting the same on a 2006 F250 in about 2 weeks.
Just watched both your videos on the 6.0 pull and rebuild and it has given me the confidence to do the same to my 2006 f350
Can’t wait to see part 3 on the going back in with it
Do you feel that pulling the front off the truck is about the same work as pulling the cab as I don’t have a 2 post lift but I was thinking on buying one until I watched your videos.
Thank you part 3 will be out soon just been super busy lately and haven’t gotten around to editing the rest of the videos. A lot of people say pulling the cab off is way easier but since mine is the excursion it’s not as simple. I prefer pulling the whole motor that way I can pull oil pan and lower end to replace the bed plate gaskets. Originally I was just going to do new heads with the cab on but decided to pull the whole thing since I needed to do lifters and I’m sure glad I did because not sure if you saw but one of my main bolt head had broken off and was laying in the bottom of the oil pan for who knows how long and the bolt was working it’s way loose. It’s really not as big of a job as people make it sound with a helping hand you can have the motor pulled in a couple hours.
Great video loving the series
I am so impressed, doing such a great job and Im learning so much from you, thanks so much for sharing, I love it
Thanks for the video, I have a 05 F350 I am getting ready to start, and this will be a big help. I do have a question though (forgive me if this is covered in another video I haven't made it through all of them yet) with the new turbo , cam , and injectors what tuner are you running and where did the tune come from?
@@elijahbaker292 thanks bud, I’m running the sct live wire with custom tunes from blessed performance
If your running an oem oil filter make sure to take the ring of death out of the top of the oil filter stand pipe... They hold down the filter bypass valve not used by the aftermarket filter companies. The reason they use the ring of death is to get the standpipe to go down when the filter is installed. A catch can wont keep your egr valve cleaner. The junk thats in it is a combination of the normal oil thats in the cac system and the soot that comes out of your egr cooler from the exhaust.. You can help gunk build on the valve by raising your cetane levels of your fuel.
Hey man I am taking out my engine in my 6.0 and I was just wondering where your putting all your parts like how you keep everything sorted or if you got any tips to help when I put everything back together
I just kind of line them up and try to put every bolt back in the hole if possible. A lot of people just setup a separate table and line everything up.
Great video. You mentioned you have a lift. Is it a body lift? I'm asking because I was wondering if the oil pan would clear without a lift. Thanks.
I have a suspension lift. You will have no problem clearing the oil pan at factory height.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
When I pulled my engine I used a heavy duty steel plate with a heavy duty eyelet welded to the steel plate which was bolted down using the turbo pedestal bolt holes. Found that to be better than using the provided hook points.
Yeah I did kinda the same thing when I installed it back in. Factory lift brackets just don’t seem very strong.
Brave soul doing it the old school way..
Awesome! I have a 05 excursion too, thanks for taking the time to put this out there!
Roughly how long would u say it took you to pull the motor in real time
Id say about 2.5-3 hours.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I can’t wait for the next videos I’ll be keeping a eye out for them
Best video out there! Thanks 👍
Great video! Thank you!
I have a 05 F350 super duty 4x4 with a manual transmission is it easier to separate the engine from the transmission
Purchasing a F 450 flatbed it also has the 6.0. Is this the same procedure? Year 2007.
Yes it will be the same exact procedure.
Can you provide a link to all the parts you used/purchased? Or a list of everything
Im thinking about doing this work to my 04, f250. I just have some doubt as I prob have 3 months experience messing around with cars; brakes parts mainly and fuel line. Was this the first engine that you pulled ?
No I’ve pulled several engines before. If you follow along on my video I’m sure you’ll have no problems doing it yourself.
Wow learned so much. Thanks
Great video
Thanks a lot
Thank you sir.
How much did yoi spend in all the new parts?
At the end it was around 12-14k
With as many bolts as there are ( and this being my first rebuild) could you do a “putting back together” video? 😅😂
I will have a total of 5-6 videos on this that will show how to put everything back together.
Awesome thank you!
How much was all the parts?
I’m sitting right around 14k right now.
Still cheaper than a new vehicle. I’m trying to add upgrades to my stock 6.0 but I don’t have the 14k to drop all at once for that.
Any suggestions on what to start with for reliability/500hp performance?
I was thinking bigger injectors, turbo, and a tune to start?
New to this upgrade stuff.
Damn money bags😂 Man I wish I still had money to blow. I bought my truck and then went broke.
😂 I see it as we could have either bought a new ford expedition for 70-80k or put $15k into this and will probably outlast the new expedition.
What $25,000.00 looks like sitting in the floor...😂😂😂
Pretty close 😂
Is there a list of parts somewhere? Would you have changed any decisions? Great content!
👍
If it wasn’t deleted there is a higher likelihood it is the egr cooler failing and not head gaskets
Can also be a defective coolant tank or cap
takes a shot everytime he says Ficm wrong
I'd delete all that shit regardless of if the state has "emissions" and get the tickets dismissed every time because there's NO crime committed... Those tickets are administrative so all you gotta do is send a letter to the Court Clerk state "Nature and Cause" of the crime and they will get it dismissed before it goes to the court.
Article 1 courts do not have the same power as Article 3 courts.
OK, maybe I missed it or you didn't say: Where is the talk about pistons, piston rings, connecting rods and bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, front and rear main seals......etc. ? Your engine has 220K miles and you are pulling the engine from the truck, are you NOT going to be rebuilding the lower end ?? In my opinion that would be a HUGE mistake. If the engine has that many miles and you are pulling it from the truck, a complete rebuild (most likely involving a machine shop) would be the smart thing to do. I'm about 3/4 of the way thru all of that myself. I NEVER want to pull this engine again. If the engine is out, it would be foolish not to do a complete rebuild.
You are entitled to your own opinions. The bottom end on the 6.0 is stout from the factory and rarely has any issues in my opinion. I’ve seen plenty of 6.0’s with 400k-500k miles on the original pistons, rings, main and cam bearings. Yes mine does have higher milage but I know the history of it and how it was maintained, I’ve had it since it was almost new and it wasn’t abused like most 6.0’s that’s why I was able to get 220k out of the factory head gaskets. Before the teardown I had excellent compression and zero blow by. Talked to many shops locally and online that throw new heads, lifters, and pushrods on without touching the bottom end all the time with well over 200k on them and have zero issues. Most of my kids are grown now and driving so this is not our daily driver anymore mainly just a weekend warrior. So it will probably be another 10 years before I put another 100k miles on it. With proper maintenance I don’t see why my bottom end wouldn’t last another 200k or more. Honestly I don’t think this engine is that hard to pull with a helping hand you can have it out and on a stand in a few hours.
Love the videos, but that oil cooler is dog shit. That's the new shitty Chinese one pushed by ford. You want 3C3Z-6A642-CA
I agree as you saw in the video I wasn’t to happy about that. I called around to multiple places locally and online with that part number you provided and everyone I talked to checked to see if it was the china or USA and they were all the china ones since the new part number supersedes that part number. I think there’s a few left out there but are hard to find.