What do JK and UK Distributor ABSlotsport have to say about this video?… After some questions about running in the motor under water and using different fluids, I have been in conversation with the above and the manufacturer (JK) do not recommend that you use any additive to the water that might soften the brushes. Normal tap water as used in my video is fine, just do not add any other chemicals to it. If the brushes soften then it can cause the commutator slots to clog up with brush dust. Also make sure you do not contaminate the brushes with oil when oiling the end bell bushing as this has the same effect of softening the brush. I tend to oil the can bushing regularly when in use, but not the end bell bushing for this very reason.
@@beinggrownupsux8040 , Oh dear 😢. I have found that the brush material does vary from batch to batch so the time that might work on one motor might not be right for another. Best to start with 10 second bursts and keep checking.
Wow I have a lot to learn, I would never have thought you could submerge an electric motor in water without shorting everything out!! Today I learned different,lol
I use straight naptha when breaking my motors in then dry off completely then drop of oil on bearings and race. While running the motor i tend to watch it thru a glass jar/cup and watch for a puff of debris to shoot out of the motor. It varies between motors some after 30 seconds some later normally happens as soon as brushes are fully seated.
Thanks for showing this. A guy in my club has a JK out of the box that's faster than all others. He boasts when he wins everytime. I'll take a look at my motor and use your tips to hopefully crumble his ego. ;)
What would you recommend for the Mabuchi-style motors that we run in 1/32 scale cars? Your CleaveTech Motor Analyzer looks great, but would it work for 1/32 scale also? How could I order this if it will work? Many thanks!
Great tip, Did it to a new sideways babyraptor yesterday, the brushes didn't look as bad as those in the video, did the resistance before, it flickered between 7-8ohms afterwards it flickered between 1-2ohm. Great not to need to spend a whole evening at the track running it in. Runned it in batterywater and then cleaned it with IPA.
Great job. Did you see the video where I ran a motor in backwards? Does running in an FK slot car motor (Hawk 7 or JK Retro) backwards improve performance? ruclips.net/video/vODYLMpELeI/видео.html
@@CleaveTech will measure the current also on the already runin motor and a before/after pn the other one backwards. Running it with some ebay pwm motor controller.
watching your videos is very informative.I am 69 years old and raced for 4 years in the 80s. i am inquiring on your Motor Analyzer ,how can I find one to purchase here in the USA, Bakersfied CA
I'm thinking about getting into slot car racing. I had a Strombecker 1/32 set in the 1960s. Why do the brushes have that curved where you end up making it straight and a straight area where you end up making it curved? If I looked at that without knowing anything about your process I would say the brushes are installed 90º out of position. They are flat against the curved commutator area and curved against the flat commutator area.
Through the years I've raced Different types and sizes of slot cars, on most of the "inline motors" I would polish the lams (I.E. the plates that the motor is made of were the windings circle). And seam to increase the rpm that the motor run, but never knew what increase I achieved. Since you have a RPM analyzer could you do a test and see the before and after outcome please?
This type of motor is not designed to be opened up so it can be hard to polish the laminations in the way you mention. Even if the hole in the can was large enough, polishing the laminations would make the motor illegal for racing. Depending on how much material you remove from the laminations, you could actually be helping the balance of the armature and improving the rpm that way, or you could be reducing the armature diameter and increasing the air gap, therefore allowing the armature to spin more freely and increasing the rpm.
22%. 21.7 vs 26.5. That was from a new motor, my question would be what would that same new motor get to just with normal wear and tear racing ? Could you do this same test with a used (maybe newish) motor to compare please ?
I don’t know if you’ve done so before, but I always used a slave motor to break in my motors. No heat through the motor you intend to use. Since you have a machine to test it, I’d love to see some data.
Been doing this since 1978 on RC cars, we call it water dipping. The water does not help conduct more current. I holds the motor rpm low from the drag, thus higher current with less CEMF. Before = 21700rpm, After=26500rpm=22% improvement?????? What, 4,800 rpm slower = improvement? Breaking the brushes in, creates more brush duration (aka overlap, 2 pole windings being powered at the same time), this gives more rpm and torque in my decades experience on 05 Mabuchi and Johnson motors. I am really surprised you lost that much rpm (and claiming lower rpm is 22% improvement), thoughts?
Can this method be used for breaking in other chassis. Including non can style. Pancakes As found in some HO stuff, by removing the center top gear. Or the rear drive get in a V1 superG style chassis? 🤔 Great videos thank You.
If the motor has carbon brushes, then this method can be used to help run them in. Be careful, as some brushes are very soft and could disappear within a few seconds if you are not careful.
Thanks for watching. The first version featured in this video was a great success but I am always looking to improve my products so I am in the process of developing a new version. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com or message me via my CleaveTech facebook page and can add you to the waiting list. Check out my other products in the meantime.
Great video sir. I would like to know approx. how long you ended up breaking the motor in under water? Also, any thoughts how this particular motor brushes would compare/differ from say NSR or Slot.it motors and whether or not you have experienced similar (22% improvement) results with either of those motors? Last question, by wearing down the brushes, which looks to be quite significant, I assume (possibly incorrectly) that the life of the motor is reduced the same? What's been your experience as far as motor life compared to a motor not run-in this way? Many thanks!
Hi Tom. Thanks for watching and commenting. I ended up running the JK Retro Hawk motor underwater for about 6 minutes at 5V. I have come across motors that only require about 20 seconds so be careful. The brush compound is sometimes different from batch to batch. I don’t have much experience yet with running in NSR or Slot.it motors of a similar style because I have not really raced them much. The effective life of the motor is reduced by running in the brushes but the commutator has not experienced a lot of arching under water so it will be in better condition.
I've never seen a question as to why aren't the brushes manufactured with a concave face, that would ensure maximum and proper contact with the commutator in the first place?
Brushes for motors that are designed for service are manufactured with a concave faced brushes but I think that these motors use brushes like this because it helps the bedding in process and ensures reasonable even performance straight out of the factory.
@@CleaveTech Understand this, however it would be a simple manufacturing process to produce brushes, regardless of application that are faced in a similar manner. It really only illuminates the fact that apparently these manufacturers of motor brushes haven't bothered to apply a little common sense to do so in the first place. If I were to make a somewhat exaggerated example, it would be that early tire manufacturers produced hexagonal tires, due to 'ease of manufacture' that would moderately accomplish the job because the end user of the tire can simply wait until all of the high points wore down from use of the tire. Ludicrous.
Rewinding armatures to a good standard is a very skilful process and takes many many hours of practice. I can show the basic principles but you need some special tools and a lot of skill to do the job well.
Hi Mark, thanks for watching. If you want to purchase the motor analyser head over to my Facebook shop or send me an email (see links in the video description).
There will eventually be a new one on the way with lots more features. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com and I can add your details to the waiting list 👍🏻
Hi Ivan. Yes I sell motor analysers but I have stopped production of the current version as there will be a new version coming in 2022. If you drop me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com then I will add you to the waiting list and get back in touch when the new version is nearly ready.
The RevoSlot motor that I have been using recently is totally sealed with a big sticker so I can’t see the brushes in that either. I haven’t run it in yet but will probably just run it in slowly under water and watch the current increase very slightly.
Hello friend my name is Paris and I really like your videos I’m in the states New Jersey and I would like to know how can I buy your power supply and motor analyzer and will it work for Carrera one 1/32 and 1/24 scale Motors please message me back thank you….. 🤓
Hi Paris. Thanks for watching my videos. The power supply and motor analyser will work with Carrera motors of both scales. For further information and to order, please message me via the CleaveTech Facebook page or send an email to cleavetech.james@gmail.com Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for the question. Just normal water. People do use all sorts of other fluids and chemicals, some of which may help to keep the com even cleaner during the run in period, but I thought I would keep this example pretty easy and simple. Maybe that can be a topic for a future video.
I was told that distilled water does not work very well. I mix a 50% Fabuloso cleaner and 50% tap water and run the motor for 30 seconds to break in the brushes. I would like to buy the motor analyzer. I also used this solution to break in a G7 or open motor which I normally break in at 3 volts for 30 or more minutes. I broke in the G7 motor with 32 magnets and a .485 diameter 84 armature using 2 volts. I was able to break in the G7 motor but, most G7 racers would not use this method for expensive G7 motors.
@@johnwakamatsu3391 . Thanks for your comment. If you want to purchase the motor analyser, send me an email to cleavetech.james@gmail.com or send me a message via the CleaveTech page on Facebook. Thank you.
I don’t lube the shaft when running in the motor under water. The water acts as a lubricant. I will oil the shaft at the can end when it is run in and put a tiny amount of oil at the end bell end.
Thank you for subscribing, watching and commenting. Although people have had success with running in their motors in different solutions (other than just water) it is not advised by the manufacturer as other chemicals can soften the brushes and create a mess of carbon inside the end bell and around the commutator. I guess it depends on what material the brushes are made of in that particular batch.
The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that benzene causes cancer in humans. Long-term exposure to high levels of benzene in the air can cause , cancer of the blood-forming organs.
Buen video compañero, gracias. Do de podría comprar el aparato para medir las vueltas de el motor?. Gracias Nice video mate, thanks. How could you buy the device to measure the revolutions of the motor? Thanks
Thanks for watching. Check out my CleaveTech Facebook shop (link in the video description) and send me a message about which device you are interested in.
I have used the water method on 3 New Hawk Retro motors with the same results, brushes wear very quickly. The most I can run the motor in water, at 5 volts is 3 to 5 seconds, or the brushes will be worn out. I ran one motor for 30 seconds and one brush was worn to the arm. Any suggestions?
Hi Bob. In the video I do mention that some motors seem to have really soft brushes that do wear very quickly. I have also had motors that will wear brushes out in 30 seconds under water. Brushes seem to be different from batch to batch so you are doing the right thing to check after about 5 seconds to see if the brushes have run in. You can normally tell instantly if the. Rushes are soft as the current reading on the power supply will increase very fast.
Yes they are. Still a way to go before they are commercially available but the use of brushless motors will reduce the maintenance time needed for motors.
I don’t think they are bad brushes, I just think they are installed in that way to help the motor break in faster and be more consistent during the break in period.
Those motors are junk. You have to buy 50 to find and if you are lucky you might get 5 good ones. Then you probably won't have breaks. They are inconsistent. Break them in in simple green. Use computer dust off to blow and clean motor. You or can just leave it on your power supply at 3 volts for 3hrs to 24 hrs
What do JK and UK Distributor ABSlotsport have to say about this video?…
After some questions about running in the motor under water and using different fluids, I have been in conversation with the above and the manufacturer (JK) do not recommend that you use any additive to the water that might soften the brushes. Normal tap water as used in my video is fine, just do not add any other chemicals to it. If the brushes soften then it can cause the commutator slots to clog up with brush dust.
Also make sure you do not contaminate the brushes with oil when oiling the end bell bushing as this has the same effect of softening the brush. I tend to oil the can bushing regularly when in use, but not the end bell bushing for this very reason.
Oh man. I tried 50/50 water and simple green on a hawk 7 at 6 volts for about 30 seconds. No more brushes when I was done 😂
@@beinggrownupsux8040 , Oh dear 😢. I have found that the brush material does vary from batch to batch so the time that might work on one motor might not be right for another. Best to start with 10 second bursts and keep checking.
Wow I have a lot to learn, I would never have thought you could submerge an electric motor in water without shorting everything out!! Today I learned different,lol
I use straight naptha when breaking my motors in then dry off completely then drop of oil on bearings and race. While running the motor i tend to watch it thru a glass jar/cup and watch for a puff of debris to shoot out of the motor. It varies between motors some after 30 seconds some later normally happens as soon as brushes are fully seated.
Thanks for showing this. A guy in my club has a JK out of the box that's faster than all others. He boasts when he wins everytime. I'll take a look at my motor and use your tips to hopefully crumble his ego. ;)
Go for it 👍🏻 Good luck
Awesome work your doing man Fantastic.
Thank you 🙏
What would you recommend for the Mabuchi-style motors that we run in 1/32 scale cars? Your CleaveTech Motor Analyzer looks great, but would it work for 1/32 scale also? How could I order this if it will work? Many thanks!
Hi!
I wonder if this braking method works on my used motor
great videos!
thank you
Great tip, Did it to a new sideways babyraptor yesterday, the brushes didn't look as bad as those in the video, did the resistance before, it flickered between 7-8ohms afterwards it flickered between 1-2ohm. Great not to need to spend a whole evening at the track running it in. Runned it in batterywater and then cleaned it with IPA.
Great job. Did you see the video where I ran a motor in backwards?
Does running in an FK slot car motor (Hawk 7 or JK Retro) backwards improve performance?
ruclips.net/video/vODYLMpELeI/видео.html
@@CleaveTech no I didn't, bought 2 motors actually so I can do it with that motor
@@lunchman84 let us know your results when you try it 👍🏻
@@CleaveTech will measure the current also on the already runin motor and a before/after pn the other one backwards. Running it with some ebay pwm motor controller.
Love the tools and the knowledge you bestow upon us. Thanks
Thank you Kevin 👍🏻
watching your videos is very informative.I am 69 years old and raced for 4 years in the 80s. i am inquiring on your Motor Analyzer ,how can I find one to purchase here in the USA, Bakersfied CA
I'm thinking about getting into slot car racing. I had a Strombecker 1/32 set in the 1960s. Why do the brushes have that curved where you end up making it straight and a straight area where you end up making it curved? If I looked at that without knowing anything about your process I would say the brushes are installed 90º out of position. They are flat against the curved commutator area and curved against the flat commutator area.
Through the years I've raced Different types and sizes of slot cars, on most of the "inline motors" I would polish the lams (I.E. the plates that the motor is made of were the windings circle). And seam to increase the rpm that the motor run, but never knew what increase I achieved. Since you have a RPM analyzer could you do a test and see the before and after outcome please?
This type of motor is not designed to be opened up so it can be hard to polish the laminations in the way you mention. Even if the hole in the can was large enough, polishing the laminations would make the motor illegal for racing.
Depending on how much material you remove from the laminations, you could actually be helping the balance of the armature and improving the rpm that way, or you could be reducing the armature diameter and increasing the air gap, therefore allowing the armature to spin more freely and increasing the rpm.
Nice video. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Sorry I would use sand paper of different grits like 400, 600 and 1000 to get my results.
22%. 21.7 vs 26.5. That was from a new motor, my question would be what would that same new motor get to just with normal wear and tear racing ? Could you do this same test with a used (maybe newish) motor to compare please ?
Thanks for commenting. I will do another video on the subject and see what I can do 👍🏻
Simple Green works good too.
I haven’t tried that.
Where can I get a motor analizer like that one?
I don’t know if you’ve done so before, but I always used a slave motor to break in my motors. No heat through the motor you intend to use. Since you have a machine to test it, I’d love to see some data.
Great idea 💡 I think I will try that in another video 👍🏻
I ordered an analyzer 1and a half years ago .what's up
Hi I was told ionised water was best to use, have you used this over tap water?
Great videos really helped a lot 👍
Been doing this since 1978 on RC cars, we call it water dipping. The water does not help conduct more current. I holds the motor rpm low from the drag, thus higher current with less CEMF.
Before = 21700rpm, After=26500rpm=22% improvement?????? What, 4,800 rpm slower = improvement?
Breaking the brushes in, creates more brush duration (aka overlap, 2 pole windings being powered at the same time), this gives more rpm and torque in my decades experience on 05 Mabuchi and Johnson motors. I am really surprised you lost that much rpm (and claiming lower rpm is 22% improvement), thoughts?
Great video thanks is there some simple way to test that type of motor without expensive equipment?
The simple test is to measure the current at a set voltage. The motors that draw the most current often have the most torque and brakes.
Those are cool devices
Can this method be used for breaking in other chassis. Including non can style. Pancakes As found in some HO stuff, by removing the center top gear.
Or the rear drive get in a V1 superG style chassis? 🤔
Great videos thank You.
If the motor has carbon brushes, then this method can be used to help run them in. Be careful, as some brushes are very soft and could disappear within a few seconds if you are not careful.
Good stuff!
Great video how do I buy this motor tester and power supply
Thanks for watching. The first version featured in this video was a great success but I am always looking to improve my products so I am in the process of developing a new version. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com or message me via my CleaveTech facebook page and can add you to the waiting list. Check out my other products in the meantime.
Great video sir. I would like to know approx. how long you ended up breaking the motor in under water? Also, any thoughts how this particular motor brushes would compare/differ from say NSR or Slot.it motors and whether or not you have experienced similar (22% improvement) results with either of those motors? Last question, by wearing down the brushes, which looks to be quite significant, I assume (possibly incorrectly) that the life of the motor is reduced the same? What's been your experience as far as motor life compared to a motor not run-in this way? Many thanks!
Hi Tom. Thanks for watching and commenting. I ended up running the JK Retro Hawk motor underwater for about 6 minutes at 5V. I have come across motors that only require about 20 seconds so be careful. The brush compound is sometimes different from batch to batch. I don’t have much experience yet with running in NSR or Slot.it motors of a similar style because I have not really raced them much.
The effective life of the motor is reduced by running in the brushes but the commutator has not experienced a lot of arching under water so it will be in better condition.
Where can I get info regarding the hardware that you are using? From power supply to motor analyzer.
Check out my CleaveTech Facebook page. The details are in the video description. 👍🏻
Where can I find a motor analyzer tester
I've never seen a question as to why aren't the brushes manufactured with a concave face, that would ensure maximum and proper contact with the commutator in the first place?
Brushes for motors that are designed for service are manufactured with a concave faced brushes but I think that these motors use brushes like this because it helps the bedding in process and ensures reasonable even performance straight out of the factory.
@@CleaveTech Understand this, however it would be a simple manufacturing process to produce brushes, regardless of application that are faced in a similar manner. It really only illuminates the fact that apparently these manufacturers of motor brushes haven't bothered to apply a little common sense to do so in the first place. If I were to make a somewhat exaggerated example, it would be that early tire manufacturers produced hexagonal tires, due to 'ease of manufacture' that would moderately accomplish the job because the end user of the tire can simply wait until all of the high points wore down from use of the tire. Ludicrous.
@@312KINGFISHER I guess it might be to do with manufacturing tolerances on the commutator size?
"Dont drink the water" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the help
Thank you very much 🙏
Can you make a video on how to rewind an armature?
Rewinding armatures to a good standard is a very skilful process and takes many many hours of practice. I can show the basic principles but you need some special tools and a lot of skill to do the job well.
Where can I buy one of those motor analyzes????
Hi Mark, thanks for watching. If you want to purchase the motor analyser head over to my Facebook shop or send me an email (see links in the video description).
How can I get a motor Annalisa
There will eventually be a new one on the way with lots more features. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com and I can add your details to the waiting list 👍🏻
Do you sell those motor analyser?
Hi Ivan. Yes I sell motor analysers but I have stopped production of the current version as there will be a new version coming in 2022.
If you drop me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com then I will add you to the waiting list and get back in touch when the new version is nearly ready.
Can distilled water be used to clean the engine? Thanks
Hi Stefanobism. Yes it can be distilled water, just don’t use any chemicals in the water. I used normal tap water.
I just 'subbed'. The motors we run you cannot see the comm's.
The RevoSlot motor that I have been using recently is totally sealed with a big sticker so I can’t see the brushes in that either. I haven’t run it in yet but will probably just run it in slowly under water and watch the current increase very slightly.
What a bout no a scalextric motor please
This would also work with a Scalextric motor.
Hello friend my name is Paris and I really like your videos I’m in the states New Jersey and I would like to know how can I buy your power supply and motor analyzer and will it work for Carrera one 1/32 and 1/24 scale Motors please message me back thank you….. 🤓
Hi Paris. Thanks for watching my videos. The power supply and motor analyser will work with Carrera motors of both scales. For further information and to order, please message me via the CleaveTech Facebook page or send an email to cleavetech.james@gmail.com
Thanks 👍🏻
Is this a MOAM
brushed eBay gizmo s???
Sounds consistent.
So was the water normal tap water or distilled (de-ionised)?
Thanks for the question. Just normal water. People do use all sorts of other fluids and chemicals, some of which may help to keep the com even cleaner during the run in period, but I thought I would keep this example pretty easy and simple. Maybe that can be a topic for a future video.
Normal tap water will do just fine 😉
I was told that distilled water does not work very well. I mix a 50% Fabuloso cleaner and 50% tap water and run the motor for 30 seconds to break in the brushes. I would like to buy the motor analyzer. I also used this solution to break in a G7 or open motor which I normally break in at 3 volts for 30 or more minutes. I broke in the G7 motor with 32 magnets and a .485 diameter 84 armature using 2 volts. I was able to break in the G7 motor but, most G7 racers would not use this method for expensive G7 motors.
@@johnwakamatsu3391 . Thanks for your comment. If you want to purchase the motor analyser, send me an email to cleavetech.james@gmail.com or send me a message via the CleaveTech page on Facebook. Thank you.
Can these tools be purchased?
Hi Kevin. Thanks for watching. Drop me a message or email cleavetech.james@gmail.com and let me know which items you would like 👍🏻
I sent an email to you.
Back in the day we used to run in rc silvercans in the toilet
Did you lube the shaft
I don’t lube the shaft when running in the motor under water. The water acts as a lubricant.
I will oil the shaft at the can end when it is run in and put a tiny amount of oil at the end bell end.
1 min / 2volts - i use 1/3 watter + 1/3 benzine + 1/3 Ultra Max Cleaner Wurth solution
Thank you for subscribing, watching and commenting. Although people have had success with running in their motors in different solutions (other than just water) it is not advised by the manufacturer as other chemicals can soften the brushes and create a mess of carbon inside the end bell and around the commutator. I guess it depends on what material the brushes are made of in that particular batch.
The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that benzene causes cancer in humans. Long-term exposure to high levels of benzene in the air can cause , cancer of the blood-forming organs.
so as any gasoline and thinners at all kinds
Buen video compañero, gracias.
Do de podría comprar el aparato para medir las vueltas de el motor?. Gracias
Nice video mate, thanks.
How could you buy the device to measure the revolutions of the motor? Thanks
Thanks for watching. Check out my CleaveTech Facebook shop (link in the video description) and send me a message about which device you are interested in.
I have used the water method on 3 New Hawk Retro motors with the same results, brushes wear very quickly. The most I can run the motor in water, at 5 volts is 3 to 5 seconds, or the brushes will be worn out. I ran one motor for 30 seconds and one brush was worn to the arm. Any suggestions?
Hi Bob. In the video I do mention that some motors seem to have really soft brushes that do wear very quickly. I have also had motors that will wear brushes out in 30 seconds under water. Brushes seem to be different from batch to batch so you are doing the right thing to check after about 5 seconds to see if the brushes have run in. You can normally tell instantly if the. Rushes are soft as the current reading on the power supply will increase very fast.
How much?
How much for what Edgar?
bruschless motors is here now
Yes they are. Still a way to go before they are commercially available but the use of brushless motors will reduce the maintenance time needed for motors.
@@CleaveTech ? its drone motors, have been around for some years
@@mrafard Yes, the motors are available, but suitable electronic speed controllers for slot cars are not commercially available yet.
Why does the factory install such bad brushes.
I don’t think they are bad brushes, I just think they are installed in that way to help the motor break in faster and be more consistent during the break in period.
Those motors are junk. You have to buy 50 to find and if you are lucky you might get 5 good ones. Then you probably won't have breaks. They are inconsistent. Break them in in simple green. Use computer dust off to blow and clean motor. You or can just leave it on your power supply at 3 volts for 3hrs to 24 hrs
Yes that's a MOAM
UNIT .
NEW ONES ACHIEVE
100x thou RPMS.
Hawk 7.....junk