Hello, how are you, your videos are very good, I would like to know what value the resistors are and how many are they? that operates the windshield wiper.
I never understand why they use Darlington transistor. At worst case you mentioned 20A, the transistor will have ~2 volt drop (12 - 2 = 10), so you car will be at 10v and then the full throttle switch kicks in and the throttle jumps ~17%. If I were to design a new controller, i would use a hall effect sensor, 200A 1mΩ FET (at the track terminals, bypassing all the controller wiring and almost zero delay, unlike the relay has), another fet for braking. This would have a finer control over the current, no steps and could add throttle curves/etc. I would probably add a instantaneous led ammeter (this can show how well the pickup shoes/make contact to the track (checking for pickup or track issues) and some other useful stuff. My last power supply and gun I made ~27 years ago. I mostly race AFX. The power supply was regulated 2 channels (one for each lane). On the gun i had 7 switches for power, reverse (mom and latch), brake (3 pos), NOS (afx was 12v, but we ran 25v (this made all of our cars fast), and NOS was 40v), led ammeter. I would link a pic, but yt will delete my comment. Oh, and on the PS, I had a switch to series the 40V channels for 80 volts! Any links to the latest high end controllers? Thanks for sharing.
Ive designed a brake and coast circuit for the brakes on my controller. Works well on cars that have too much braking power. Applies full brakes via a relay for a pre-set time (adjustable) and then reverts to the brake pot which you dial up accordingly (i.e. not much brakes). Or you can have full brakes via the relay, or bypass the relay and just run through the pot. How handy are you with electronics? If youre interested I'll email you. I think I have the diagram as a pdf
@@jmcleave email sent. How savvy are you with electronics as this is not a simple build and conversion. If you have problems understanding the cct diagrams I can guide you through it.
@@Fabio-ns4ql Thanks very much for the info. I will respect your IP. I am fine with electronics and have used that IC many times. Really appreciate the information 🙏
@@jmcleave No problems. The cct works well with cars that have way too much brakes. The 3 ohm brake pot was what was fitted to the controller. Can change that to anything that you want and depends on the motors you use. 20 ohm brake pots works well with most 1/32 motors. The input to the pulse cct needs a 12V signal. Ive not tested it for a 0V (earth) input signal but it should work if you splice in the alternate input cct. You can either isolate your wiper arm to provide the 12V signal (Difalco does this as well as others) and the base current to the transistor or fit micro switches like Parma controllers used to have. If you have issues email me.
If you take apart the socket for that 2amp plug, you'll see the contacts for the plug pins are VERY small, so really the banana plug is a far better connection than the plug.
Excellent video but so very wrong about the standard ECRA/BSCRA plug. It's a 2 amp plug - not 5 amp, which is larger. And it was, and still is, used in UK mains installations. You can still buy them in Screwfix and from RS and people are still using them in homes, for low power lighting. Fortunately as far as I know no-one has ever plugged a controller into the mains as it would be very dangerous indeed. In this era of generally available 3D printing I did suggest the slot car associations around the world should come up with a standard design (with matching socket) that could be printed anywhere and use the metal inserts from some easily obtainable connector, such as the 4mm ones. But no-one seemed interested.
Thanks John. You are totally correct about the plug. I obviously got mixed up. The 5amp plug has much bigger pins. Thanks for pointing out the mistake.
Hi! You do not explain much on the way the transistor is connected in this video. Can you explain that also? There is a quick snippet of the circuit, but no explanation. E.g why isn't there a Mosfet used. Keep going, I like your videos, allthough mostly interested in more standard slotcars like Slot-It, NSR and Revo-slot.
Mosfets really only like to be fully on or fully off. So you can use them in lieu of a power relay but not really as as means of controlling voltage to a motor.
Hi Rijnout. Thanks for watching. I am pretty sure I put a link to the full explanation of the circuit in the video description but if so didn’t, here it is: www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/cont1.htm There will be more Revo-slot stuff to come and I will be preparing another type of car for a race too.
Hi James ! I'm returning to racing Slot car, because of my son. I hope he really enjoys this fascinating hobby. I have old Parma resistor controls, and I would like to know if it is possible to transform my controls into these new digital . In addition to saving money, I always liked to assemble my equipment. If it is possible, do you have a list of parts and any documents on how to assemble? Thank you very much and I really enjoy watching your videos. Regards
Hi Ronaldo. It is great that you are going racing again and taking your son with you. The PARMA controllers are a great base to build an electronic controller. There is a wealth of knowledge about controllers on the BSCRA website. Here is a link… www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/index.htm
The reason the alligator clips are used in the USA is they will break away when the wires are pulled. This setup has saved me so much rewire work on the controllers! There is a method to our madness!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello, how are you, your videos are very good, I would like to know what value the resistors are and how many are they? that operates the windshield wiper.
Great explanations James 👍
Is a rollout control on 1/24 scale drag racing controller power that's redirected through a rheostat with a type of switch. thank you
Is there an adaptor to be able to run this on a scalextric track and not a routed circuit
I never understand why they use Darlington transistor. At worst case you mentioned 20A, the transistor will have ~2 volt drop (12 - 2 = 10), so you car will be at 10v and then the full throttle switch kicks in and the throttle jumps ~17%.
If I were to design a new controller, i would use a hall effect sensor, 200A 1mΩ FET (at the track terminals, bypassing all the controller wiring and almost zero delay, unlike the relay has), another fet for braking. This would have a finer control over the current, no steps and could add throttle curves/etc. I would probably add a instantaneous led ammeter (this can show how well the pickup shoes/make contact to the track (checking for pickup or track issues) and some other useful stuff.
My last power supply and gun I made ~27 years ago. I mostly race AFX. The power supply was regulated 2 channels (one for each lane). On the gun i had 7 switches for power, reverse (mom and latch), brake (3 pos), NOS (afx was 12v, but we ran 25v (this made all of our cars fast), and NOS was 40v), led ammeter. I would link a pic, but yt will delete my comment. Oh, and on the PS, I had a switch to series the 40V channels for 80 volts!
Any links to the latest high end controllers?
Thanks for sharing.
Ive designed a brake and coast circuit for the brakes on my controller. Works well on cars that have too much braking power. Applies full brakes via a relay for a pre-set time (adjustable) and then reverts to the brake pot which you dial up accordingly (i.e. not much brakes). Or you can have full brakes via the relay, or bypass the relay and just run through the pot. How handy are you with electronics? If youre interested I'll email you. I think I have the diagram as a pdf
Thank you Fabio. I would appreciate a look at your circuit diagram. I have had a couple of racers at my local club ask me for that feature.
@@jmcleave email sent. How savvy are you with electronics as this is not a simple build and conversion. If you have problems understanding the cct diagrams I can guide you through it.
@@Fabio-ns4ql Thanks very much for the info. I will respect your IP. I am fine with electronics and have used that IC many times. Really appreciate the information 🙏
@@jmcleave No problems. The cct works well with cars that have way too much brakes. The 3 ohm brake pot was what was fitted to the controller. Can change that to anything that you want and depends on the motors you use. 20 ohm brake pots works well with most 1/32 motors. The input to the pulse cct needs a 12V signal. Ive not tested it for a 0V (earth) input signal but it should work if you splice in the alternate input cct. You can either isolate your wiper arm to provide the 12V signal (Difalco does this as well as others) and the base current to the transistor or fit micro switches like Parma controllers used to have. If you have issues email me.
Could you email the brake and coast in pdf? It seems that we have several likes - electrons, slot cars, model trains and politics.
Esperando o AntiBrake..... PARABÉNS PELO TRABALHO.
Anti brake is coming soon 😉
If you take apart the socket for that 2amp plug, you'll see the contacts for the plug pins are VERY small, so really the banana plug is a far better connection than the plug.
Yes, you are probably correct in most cases 👍🏻. It can also depend on well the track sockets have been wired.
Excellent video but so very wrong about the standard ECRA/BSCRA plug. It's a 2 amp plug - not 5 amp, which is larger. And it was, and still is, used in UK mains installations. You can still buy them in Screwfix and from RS and people are still using them in homes, for low power lighting. Fortunately as far as I know no-one has ever plugged a controller into the mains as it would be very dangerous indeed.
In this era of generally available 3D printing I did suggest the slot car associations around the world should come up with a standard design (with matching socket) that could be printed anywhere and use the metal inserts from some easily obtainable connector, such as the 4mm ones. But no-one seemed interested.
Thanks John. You are totally correct about the plug. I obviously got mixed up. The 5amp plug has much bigger pins. Thanks for pointing out the mistake.
Hi! You do not explain much on the way the transistor is connected in this video. Can you explain that also? There is a quick snippet of the circuit, but no explanation. E.g why isn't there a Mosfet used.
Keep going, I like your videos, allthough mostly interested in more standard slotcars like Slot-It, NSR and Revo-slot.
Mosfets really only like to be fully on or fully off. So you can use them in lieu of a power relay but not really as as means of controlling voltage to a motor.
Hi Rijnout. Thanks for watching. I am pretty sure I put a link to the full explanation of the circuit in the video description but if so didn’t, here it is:
www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/cont1.htm
There will be more Revo-slot stuff to come and I will be preparing another type of car for a race too.
Thanks James, really Nice article.
@@Fabio-ns4ql That is you dont know how to control them, there are audio amplifiers that use mosfets.
Hi James ! I'm returning to racing Slot car, because of my son. I hope he really enjoys this fascinating hobby.
I have old Parma resistor controls, and I would like to know if it is possible to transform my controls into these new digital . In addition to saving money, I always liked to assemble my equipment. If it is possible, do you have a list of parts and any documents on how to assemble? Thank you very much and I really enjoy watching your videos. Regards
Hi Ronaldo. It is great that you are going racing again and taking your son with you.
The PARMA controllers are a great base to build an electronic controller.
There is a wealth of knowledge about controllers on the BSCRA website.
Here is a link…
www.slotcarracing.org.uk/control/index.htm
The reason the alligator clips are used in the USA is they will break away when the wires are pulled. This setup has saved me so much rewire work on the controllers!
There is a method to our madness!
I’m a there a risk of electrocution? When slot car racing?
Most slot cars run on 12V to 14V DC so the risk of electrocution is very low.
@@CleaveTech so if a child touched the rail they would be fine right?
Yes they would. If they actually licked the rails with a wet tongue they may get a tingle on their tongue but they would be fine 👍🏻
I guess there is always a small chance that some rare medical condition could mean that someone might feel more of an effect.
I like your intro animation