One suggestion I have is to get in the habit of staggering your wire splices. Less possibility of shorts such as this and the wire bundle is smaller and can fit through tighter spaces, and it's another way of identifying wires as to not get things hooked up incorrectly.
video ideas--- 1-Deck tour 2-in side tour 3-below bilge/engine room 4-how systems have been working, things you want to change, batteries/solar and genset usage 5-overall technical tour (1 or 2 parts) 6-start to finish with the transfer case ( your thoughts on how things could change and the overall prospective of the situation)
Hey mate. Built my boat 24 years ago, lived aboard ever since. Wired it all with tinned copper. Only plain copper was supplied in engine looms. Sorry, but the only wire I have had problems with is the engine looms. Think tinned copper on a boat is very worth the bit extra in cost. Love your vids dude.😊😊
If money was no object I agree. But when is money no object? I've worked on two boats both over 15 years old with original wiring and they only had mild discoloration. For me, I'll stick with the free extension cords that folks are willing to donate or I pull out of the trash. : )
Here's a tip for you, those LEDs that make up the "light bulbs" are called COB LEDs that stands for Chip On Board. Each LED has an integrated circuit built into it to regulate power going to the led. When doing a continuity check I have found that they don't play well with most multimeters. Open Line shows for continuity or diode check and resistance is near megaohms. They don't need much voltage to light up as low as 3 or 4 volts will turn some 12volt COB LED on. So you may have not have had a direct 12 volt short. Salt water and a break in the insulation may have provided a resistive path instead of a short, enough of a path to carry 3 or so volts.
One important mistake: COB LED modules have typically NO regulators inside. Its just an array of LED chips on a metal heat spreader as a bare component. You mostly need an special LED controller ro operate them correctly, e.g. a constant current source. If its integrated lighting unit like a bulb defined for 12 or 24V then the COB module comes packaged with a controller inside. But the COB module mostly has no power controller in the COB chip. At minimum you need a inline resistor if you want to use a COB module direkt on a voltage source as the need a defined current. Using a voltage source is mostly destroying the COB module more or less quickly.
I bought my multi meter many years ago and there have been many a time it has been an absolute blessing. I made up a spare set of leads with just small Croc clips, they have been handy as well. It just makes sense to have one on standby. Thanks Doug....
@@danielpeck6269 For me the AVO Model 8. Nobody has built an analogue meter where the needle oozes sex appeal as it sashays across the dial indicating the *exact* point the magic smoke got out.
When in doubt, figure it out! Great job Doug and crew. Wire nuts are just like most things, when used correctly, all is good. Once tight, always give them a good pull test to ensure it's grip.
One of my tests if things aren't making sense is to use the pointy probes and push them through the cable insulation either side of the connection.. then First with the power on see if there is any resistance.. volt meter usually shows but you could try amps .. then if no joy use the resistance/continuity.. beware don't use it when power on or bad things can happen to the multimeter.. Yep power cords are useful... Been trying to workout how to calculate wire size as I've been using 2 x 3 core power cords.. one for + & other - ... so what is 3 x 1.5m2 added together? I consider it 4mm2 but could be more? Was watching Helene .. she mostly missed you.. good job you weren't on the other side with 20ft storm surge.
Que so, ima be that guy… I wired up my little seventeen foot CC with some copper, I did regret it. See it almost left me and my kid stranded twenty miles off shore. This is one season. I got lucky I had a toolbox and extra wire to fix the issue(more copper). Here is what I’ve learned from that, the subsequent fix and my other boat which has a lot of copper(previous owner). My CC is open to the elements, main problem. The failure occurred in the battery box at the back of the boat, but not in the console. Although after replacing, I could see where it would eventually fail. Once the oxidation started, it worked its way down the line a few feet, talk about crazy. So now compare that to my 27 foot older boat that’s a cabin cruiser with a shit ton of copper in the cabin. and spent some time on salt. It shows some oxidation on the copper, but not so much that I’m worried about it. Most is for cabin lights, stereo , etc… I replaced all the important wires with tinned wire as I don’t wanna be that other guy being towed by SeaTow. It seems that so long as you keep it in the dry areas, it’s fine, for a while anyways. That’s my two bits
They make wirenuts filled with silicone for use in wet locations. They're blue and work quite well. I'd also recommend using a megger on the lines to test their insulation as your original crimps looked great.
The LOW Z position on the meter is also great for working with AC or DC, does both at the same time. The clockwise AC/DC settings have about 10 Meg ohms across the leads. The LOW Z puts about 1 Meg ohm across the leads, it's much better at eliminating false crosstalk readings. Also looks lite the LED bulbs are starting to loose individual LEDs, saw a few flickering when you turned them forward facing lights.
For the average Joe at least a high end Klein with the dc clamp function, but If you use it to eat or keep you alive yeah Fluke all day everyday. If it cost less than $50 new its good enough for a car stereo or diagnosing simple problems.
Doug, you have to know that it's not because the device that makes light are LEDs, that your whole assembly will behave like diodes. Point is that most of the time you will have a driving circuit(chip) that will blind your meter from diode behavior.
yeah, I've used extension cords with the ends cut off for all kinds of wiring jobs - like speaker wire, where my home theater surround system has 4 rear speakers and would require hundreds of feet of expensive wires to run all of them, I just used two heavydudy extension cords with the 'ground' as a common per one set and another for the other, was a much cleaner looking install with just the two white cords along the ceiling edge trim splitting into shorter runs of speaker wire to each along the back and side walls
another beautiful day out on the water. thanks for sharing it with all of us landlubbers. I see a storm is coming towards Florida. is the any chance you could do a live stream of some of it?
I've been watching Doug since the first day the materials were dropped off in his driveway. I'm so impressed with how volunteers from all over the world came together without any emotional outbursts. Everything ran brilliantly and smoothly! How does that happen? I frequently commented on the videos and always received a response. I once posted a negative question, expecting a critical reply, but instead, I received one of the most positive and encouraging responses, which stunned me. Sv Seekers has definitely changed my outlook on life. I've come to the conclusion that Doug is both inspirational and a genius. Thank you, Doug!
I thought OL was out of limits, the beeper is testing for resistance with an audible alarm I believe and the screen would say the resistance if it was conducting.
I think the tinned wire comes from the earlier days of electricity when they didnt have the best metallurgy or manufacturing to draw the wire consistently. In DC situations you are usually running a higher current along with there is no alternation of direction of flow so at no point does it hit 0 v meaning that the duty cycle of the wire is doubled. DC loads on wires dissipate more heat, where do you think the voltage goes when it drops on a long run? So if you drew out a bunch of wires and then quickly ran them through tin (a practice common with copper cookware. It will not only block corrosion (which old insulation was not really water proof for ever except in expensive mega projects) if it does get hot and form a break the tin should flow before it gets hot enough to flash ignite wood or the sheathing and in theory fix the resistance problem creating the heat. In practice a dead short is still going to cook the line. ALL THAT SAID its all about risk tolerance, if you can run with out power and a cooked line wont set your boat on fire you should be fine enough to get to safety and fix the problem. If a downed line will kill you at sea then just pay for the more expensive wire. Honestly I think romex should be replaced with tinned copper stranded wire... but it costs a whole lot more than romex.
Wire nuts with silicone sealant put in the bottom will make them weather proof while in an enclosure and water resistant enough for irrigation applications that use fertilizer additives to the water, so they should be fine for up there on the mast. Just remember that you should never reuse wire nuts since it can cause sparking and fires. Wagos are fine on a motor board on in a very empty junction box. They are very bulky and honestly overpriced. There are better options if you want a reusable connector. Tinned wire does hold up better in marine and salty, humid air. It's just chemistry. You buy it from an electrical wire supplier, not a marine supplier. Marine suppliers always add extra profit to their price. Tinned wire is used in some applications in industrial uses, like if you are doing processes that have a lot of corrosive salts, so it is carried by other suppliers, but as long as the wire jacket isn't made of something permeable to moisture, untinned only needs protection at the ends, so silicone and several of the plastic jackets work for this.
I see those LED bulbs regularly in the automotive world and the individual LEDS burn out from time to time. I find incandescents are a fraction of the cost of LEDs and last just as long.
Did you fix a short ? or a loose connection. The only time I experienced this problem is with LED lights, but they’re brighter and use a lot less power which is a plus.
I'm delighted to see you share videos of your work and journey. Your answer is in the first 20 seconds of the video you last posted in which you are giving reasons why you have not done something that you planned to do a year ago ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxWXREPUPdO0bcrqWT87HMNkRHBlWgURRf?si=Pfi6DfIqFhmggtn7 I don't think you should feel any need to provide an excuse if you are actively working toward your goal. I think you would be better served by understanding that you are not the only one who can not control the world around you and cut yourself some slack. It is hard enough to control your own attitude and outlook. Keep it positive, stay focused on your goals, and press on. I also find it helpful to have friends who see your goals and efforts and support you. People around you who only point out that you have not reached your goals should be pushed away. They are not your friends. So with that, I wish you the best in your efforts to obtain your goals. I'm off to finish installing the upgraded parts into the transfer case. Then back on with the shake-down run. Wish us luck. -- Doug
I noticed you have LED lights in the fixture. Those may not test correctly with using the continuity setting. Try using the ohms setting and should see open and low resistance.
Personally I'm not at all a nut connector fan. If I have a family member that needs an exterior light fixture or sink disposal I do butt connector plus 1 or 2 layers of heat shrink just because. Why not?
My anchor light is on top of the mizzen mast and unreachable to anyone because there are no halyards that go that high. The LED bulbs have blown short-circuit, the breaker protected the wire fortunately. I put in standard LEDs when really you need shock-resistant bulbs, preferably encapsulated. I tested the same bulbs (which we have throughout the ship in ceiling lights) with a temporary anchor light up a halyard and sure enough, they blow short-circuit in just a few days. One day we'll find a climbing monkey to go up the mizzen with stirrups who has a head for standing over the top of the mast to reach the anchor light housing to replace bulbs! Also I put in nice-looking automotive-style LED deck floodlights at the mizzen truck which worked beautifully at first but gradually faded out in this occasion not short-circuit, at least I can reach them with a mizzen spinnaker halyard...! LESSON LEARNT: get marine quality bulbs.
You can take up two loops of webbing. Wrap them around the mast and make your own steps. And I use automotive LED's www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824KKBNJ?ie=UTF8&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=svseeker-20&linkId=04d6852933f83e44ebe3f328962b58be&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@RayThackeray Ha! I just realized who I'm talking to. Howdy Ray! Hope you've made some progress on your gearbox and prop. I got my transfer case back together and will install it tomorrow or the next day.
@@SVSeeker We are awaiting few parts for Paul to complete out transmission re-installation and pretty much a total revamp and improvement of the engine and transmission cooling, he's now installing a completely separate pump and circuit for each by adding another engine/belt-driven raw water pump. It's taken us time to order the bits and get them delivered but I think we'll have everything by next Friday...
How old are those led lights? looks like a few have failed and more in the process of failing.... I wonder why they don't last like they used to, Is it because they are trying to overdrive them to make them brighter at the expense of last ability?
Wire nuts are pretty much a foreign concept for us here in Australia, they aren't sold anywhere, it's a shame. But they also don't trust us to play with their usual use case of mains 240v here without a licence... I wouldn't be surprised if they eventually outlawed wago connectors too.. We are the nation that can't be trusted to do anything really.. Wire nuts make it too convenient for we who are not qualified. I would love to get out in my shop and make something, but the government said I also need a licence for that haha 😅😅. Love your videos. Cheers.
The government is right not to trust unlicensed individuals to do wring work on 240 volts. But you should be aware that doesn't physically stop you from electrocuting yourself or setting fire to your own home because you got it wrong. Any how there is always insurance to help you rebuild your house, wait I forgot you won't have insurance because your unlicensed. It is still a choice.
@@SVSeeker Lies, it's all lies! it's definitely not a free country... We now also have the most expensive passport in the world... They won't even let us escape this place without extorting us for a little book with a photo in it... But seriously it's pretty bad here. I'll be on the coast, off Sydney, wishfully waiting for the good vessel Seeker to pull in so I can stow away... I can dream I guess :) I mean it's not even that far! See you when you get here, she is more than capable!
@@zorbakaput8537 thankyou for making me aware of this issue... I wasn't too sure, I mean, I didn't think the pixies in the power point could hurt me because I couldn't see them.. I will reconsider pulling my Power points off the wall and chewing the cables.... But yes, I do agree with what you said. I do not condone or perform unlicensed electrical work, simply just making a point about the wire nuts not being available here. Im sorry if I upset you in some way ... But in relation to causing electrical fires with dodgy work, extra low voltage, ie 12v DC etc can be worked on by any man and his dog and although wont electrocute you, could definitely cause electrical fires.. actually, screw it, maybe they should ban DC work too, we can't be trusted.
❤️ wire nuts rock! I have actually crimped a 14 guage stranded copper with a copper closed eye and had zero volts pass across, it was one out of a million crimp fails, but with low voltage systems there is failure. Also with wire nuts, the metallic insert polishes the wires as you twist.
arr im first watch from australia doug followed from the start you have become part of my life keeping up with your fit out of seeker great diy build a real famous boat now cheers
Well, unless what you call a girl has a pair of testicles I think physically weak is scientifically and statistically accurate. So suck it up, buttercup.
In my defense of weak handshakes, my right hand has a lingering knuckle injury and I will piss my pants from pain if it gets squeezed too hard. Never punch someone full strength, even if you feel you have to.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
One suggestion I have is to get in the habit of staggering your wire splices. Less possibility of shorts such as this and the wire bundle is smaller and can fit through tighter spaces, and it's another way of identifying wires as to not get things hooked up incorrectly.
video ideas---
1-Deck tour
2-in side tour
3-below bilge/engine room
4-how systems have been working, things you want to change, batteries/solar and genset usage
5-overall technical tour (1 or 2 parts)
6-start to finish with the transfer case ( your thoughts on how things could change and the overall prospective of the situation)
Hey mate. Built my boat 24 years ago, lived aboard ever since. Wired it all with tinned copper. Only plain copper was supplied in engine looms. Sorry, but the only wire I have had problems with is the engine looms. Think tinned copper on a boat is very worth the bit extra in cost. Love your vids dude.😊😊
If money was no object I agree. But when is money no object? I've worked on two boats both over 15 years old with original wiring and they only had mild discoloration. For me, I'll stick with the free extension cords that folks are willing to donate or I pull out of the trash. : )
Here's a tip for you, those LEDs that make up the "light bulbs" are called COB LEDs that stands for Chip On Board. Each LED has an integrated circuit built into it to regulate power going to the led. When doing a continuity check I have found that they don't play well with most multimeters. Open Line shows for continuity or diode check and resistance is near megaohms. They don't need much voltage to light up as low as 3 or 4 volts will turn some 12volt COB LED on. So you may have not have had a direct 12 volt short. Salt water and a break in the insulation may have provided a resistive path instead of a short, enough of a path to carry 3 or so volts.
One important mistake: COB LED modules have typically NO regulators inside. Its just an array of LED chips on a metal heat spreader as a bare component. You mostly need an special LED controller ro operate them correctly, e.g. a constant current source.
If its integrated lighting unit like a bulb defined for 12 or 24V then the COB module comes packaged with a controller inside.
But the COB module mostly has no power controller in the COB chip.
At minimum you need a inline resistor if you want to use a COB module direkt on a voltage source as the need a defined current.
Using a voltage source is mostly destroying the COB module more or less quickly.
I bought my multi meter many years ago and there have been many a time it has been an absolute blessing. I made up a spare set of leads with just small Croc clips, they have been handy as well. It just makes sense to have one on standby. Thanks Doug....
Even the free one that Harbor Freight was giving away measured the same voltages as my very expensive Fluke meter.
@@SVSeeker I'm partial to Fluke multimeters as well because of the nostalgia. I use a Fluke 115 just like my dad did when I was a kid
@@danielpeck6269 For me the AVO Model 8. Nobody has built an analogue meter where the needle oozes sex appeal as it sashays across the dial indicating the *exact* point the magic smoke got out.
When in doubt, figure it out! Great job Doug and crew. Wire nuts are just like most things, when used correctly, all is good. Once tight, always give them a good pull test to ensure it's grip.
Nice fix. Take care and have a fantastic weekend
Why didn't you check for continuity between the wires and the boat itself? You might have found some errant current while chasing down short circuit.
One of my tests if things aren't making sense is to use the pointy probes and push them through the cable insulation either side of the connection.. then First with the power on see if there is any resistance.. volt meter usually shows but you could try amps .. then if no joy use the resistance/continuity.. beware don't use it when power on or bad things can happen to the multimeter..
Yep power cords are useful...
Been trying to workout how to calculate wire size as I've been using 2 x 3 core power cords.. one for + & other - ... so what is 3 x 1.5m2 added together? I consider it 4mm2 but could be more?
Was watching Helene .. she mostly missed you.. good job you weren't on the other side with 20ft storm surge.
Que so, ima be that guy… I wired up my little seventeen foot CC with some copper, I did regret it. See it almost left me and my kid stranded twenty miles off shore. This is one season. I got lucky I had a toolbox and extra wire to fix the issue(more copper). Here is what I’ve learned from that, the subsequent fix and my other boat which has a lot of copper(previous owner). My CC is open to the elements, main problem. The failure occurred in the battery box at the back of the boat, but not in the console. Although after replacing, I could see where it would eventually fail. Once the oxidation started, it worked its way down the line a few feet, talk about crazy. So now compare that to my 27 foot older boat that’s a cabin cruiser with a shit ton of copper in the cabin. and spent some time on salt. It shows some oxidation on the copper, but not so much that I’m worried about it. Most is for cabin lights, stereo , etc… I replaced all the important wires with tinned wire as I don’t wanna be that other guy being towed by SeaTow. It seems that so long as you keep it in the dry areas, it’s fine, for a while anyways. That’s my two bits
No worries. Glad you're that guy. The world only has so many free used extension cords. : )
"open line"? Nah.... Out of limit. Infinity.
Great fix, Doug. Were there a couple of LEDs on the way out in there? Maybe another impending repair?
They make wirenuts filled with silicone for use in wet locations. They're blue and work quite well. I'd also recommend using a megger on the lines to test their insulation as your original crimps looked great.
Silicon or silicone?
@@RayThackeray well silicone would be the right word but silicone is made from silicon.
The LOW Z position on the meter is also great for working with AC or DC, does both at the same time. The clockwise AC/DC settings have about 10 Meg ohms across the leads. The LOW Z puts about 1 Meg ohm across the leads, it's much better at eliminating false crosstalk readings. Also looks lite the LED bulbs are starting to loose individual LEDs, saw a few flickering when you turned them forward facing lights.
The Fluke Meter is a must have. 👍
For the average Joe at least a high end Klein with the dc clamp function, but If you use it to eat or keep you alive yeah Fluke all day everyday. If it cost less than $50 new its good enough for a car stereo or diagnosing simple problems.
I'm chasing down a short in my trolling motor pedal right now. Your videos always get me off the couch and doing stuff. Thanks Doug.
Doug, you have to know that it's not because the device that makes light are LEDs, that your whole assembly will behave like diodes. Point is that most of the time you will have a driving circuit(chip) that will blind your meter from diode behavior.
yeah, I've used extension cords with the ends cut off for all kinds of wiring jobs - like speaker wire, where my home theater surround system has 4 rear speakers and would require hundreds of feet of expensive wires to run all of them, I just used two heavydudy extension cords with the 'ground' as a common per one set and another for the other, was a much cleaner looking install with just the two white cords along the ceiling edge trim splitting into shorter runs of speaker wire to each along the back and side walls
another beautiful day out on the water. thanks for sharing it with all of us landlubbers.
I see a storm is coming towards Florida. is the any chance you could do a live stream of some of it?
Oh! Maybe we could do an 'at sea' watch party! do you have the perfect storm?
Bet you $10 nobody's ever done that before
Wire nuts in a marine environment!. Are you kidding? Wow
It's all about not having that 12 year old girl grip strength. Work it!
Mercruiser wiring harness is not tinned. Did one of my older boat's wiring 24 years ago out of Home Depot. No issues.
Very good
I've been watching Doug since the first day the materials were dropped off in his driveway. I'm so impressed with how volunteers from all over the world came together without any emotional outbursts. Everything ran brilliantly and smoothly! How does that happen?
I frequently commented on the videos and always received a response. I once posted a negative question, expecting a critical reply, but instead, I received one of the most positive and encouraging responses, which stunned me. Sv Seekers has definitely changed my outlook on life. I've come to the conclusion that Doug is both inspirational and a genius. Thank you, Doug!
I've felt that way about weak handed men. It doesn't take much to have some very useful tools on your arms.
I’m thinking that tractor seat on the mast was one of your better ideas!
I think so too! : )
Looking pretty comfortable at the mast-head...
I thought OL was out of limits, the beeper is testing for resistance with an audible alarm I believe and the screen would say the resistance if it was conducting.
Good job!!! My greetings from Ukraine!!!
I think the tinned wire comes from the earlier days of electricity when they didnt have the best metallurgy or manufacturing to draw the wire consistently. In DC situations you are usually running a higher current along with there is no alternation of direction of flow so at no point does it hit 0 v meaning that the duty cycle of the wire is doubled. DC loads on wires dissipate more heat, where do you think the voltage goes when it drops on a long run? So if you drew out a bunch of wires and then quickly ran them through tin (a practice common with copper cookware. It will not only block corrosion (which old insulation was not really water proof for ever except in expensive mega projects) if it does get hot and form a break the tin should flow before it gets hot enough to flash ignite wood or the sheathing and in theory fix the resistance problem creating the heat. In practice a dead short is still going to cook the line. ALL THAT SAID its all about risk tolerance, if you can run with out power and a cooked line wont set your boat on fire you should be fine enough to get to safety and fix the problem. If a downed line will kill you at sea then just pay for the more expensive wire. Honestly I think romex should be replaced with tinned copper stranded wire... but it costs a whole lot more than romex.
When Doug creates videos on using wire nuts, it is time to start discussing building SV Seeker II.
Time for you to start making videos.
@@SVSeekerhaha🤘🏽
Expensive taste in continuity testers!
Yeah, no shit. And frankly the $3 multimeter from Harbor Freight does that job just as well.
@@SVSeeker I'd be shitting tennis balls over the thought of dropping it either in the drink or on the deck.
Wire nuts with silicone sealant put in the bottom will make them weather proof while in an enclosure and water resistant enough for irrigation applications that use fertilizer additives to the water, so they should be fine for up there on the mast. Just remember that you should never reuse wire nuts since it can cause sparking and fires. Wagos are fine on a motor board on in a very empty junction box. They are very bulky and honestly overpriced. There are better options if you want a reusable connector.
Tinned wire does hold up better in marine and salty, humid air. It's just chemistry. You buy it from an electrical wire supplier, not a marine supplier. Marine suppliers always add extra profit to their price. Tinned wire is used in some applications in industrial uses, like if you are doing processes that have a lot of corrosive salts, so it is carried by other suppliers, but as long as the wire jacket isn't made of something permeable to moisture, untinned only needs protection at the ends, so silicone and several of the plastic jackets work for this.
at 9:23 some chips seem to be off on the bulbs, there might be an issue, they are supposed to all have the same threshold voltage.
I see those LED bulbs regularly in the automotive world and the individual LEDS burn out from time to time. I find incandescents are a fraction of the cost of LEDs and last just as long.
I put some in my rv.The on/off switch melted in on position one night being only on for an hour.Had to cut power wire before a fire started.
copper wire will always cause problems somewhere down the road if not tinned
Entropy is working faster on you and me than it is on my wiring.
Man you couldn't have been more on point with that handshake
What brand walkie talk radios do you use? Nice and clear! Great videos too!
amzn.to/3Wr3yh0 2 for $60
Did you fix a short ? or a loose connection. The only time I experienced this problem is with LED lights, but they’re brighter and use a lot less power which is a plus.
Where is the research? Is this a houseboat now?
I'm delighted to see you share videos of your work and journey. Your answer is in the first 20 seconds of the video you last posted in which you are giving reasons why you have not done something that you planned to do a year ago
ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxWXREPUPdO0bcrqWT87HMNkRHBlWgURRf?si=Pfi6DfIqFhmggtn7
I don't think you should feel any need to provide an excuse if you are actively working toward your goal. I think you would be better served by understanding that you are not the only one who can not control the world around you and cut yourself some slack. It is hard enough to control your own attitude and outlook. Keep it positive, stay focused on your goals, and press on. I also find it helpful to have friends who see your goals and efforts and support you. People around you who only point out that you have not reached your goals should be pushed away. They are not your friends. So with that, I wish you the best in your efforts to obtain your goals. I'm off to finish installing the upgraded parts into the transfer case. Then back on with the shake-down run. Wish us luck. -- Doug
LOL Douglas you like to trigger people 😂 I thought you had strong hands from using Mrs Palmer and her 5 daughters 😆
: )
I noticed you have LED lights in the fixture. Those may not test correctly with using the continuity setting. Try using the ohms setting and should see open and low resistance.
The tinning prevents your wire end from corroding badly not necessary with your compound on there I bet.
Isn't OL overload?
You might want to check and make sure you don’t have a faulty ground that can cause the problem
Wire nuts tend to vibrate off on boats
Only when applied by 12 year old girls. LOL !
We've had non-tinned wire on our boat that was at least 15 years old and still in great shape. 🤷♂
Yeah. I've never used it or seen it on a boat I worked on. The only stuff I have seen that was bad was either underwater or under too much load.
Personally I'm not at all a nut connector fan. If I have a family member that needs an exterior light fixture or sink disposal I do butt connector plus 1 or 2 layers of heat shrink just because. Why not?
I bet it’s not the people on boats complaining about the lift bridge but the people in cars who have to wait for boats either way still seems wasteful
My anchor light is on top of the mizzen mast and unreachable to anyone because there are no halyards that go that high. The LED bulbs have blown short-circuit, the breaker protected the wire fortunately. I put in standard LEDs when really you need shock-resistant bulbs, preferably encapsulated. I tested the same bulbs (which we have throughout the ship in ceiling lights) with a temporary anchor light up a halyard and sure enough, they blow short-circuit in just a few days. One day we'll find a climbing monkey to go up the mizzen with stirrups who has a head for standing over the top of the mast to reach the anchor light housing to replace bulbs! Also I put in nice-looking automotive-style LED deck floodlights at the mizzen truck which worked beautifully at first but gradually faded out in this occasion not short-circuit, at least I can reach them with a mizzen spinnaker halyard...! LESSON LEARNT: get marine quality bulbs.
You can take up two loops of webbing. Wrap them around the mast and make your own steps. And I use automotive LED's www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824KKBNJ?ie=UTF8&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=svseeker-20&linkId=04d6852933f83e44ebe3f328962b58be&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@SVSeeker That is what I meant by stirrups. Believe me it will take a monkey better than me or Paul to get up there.
@@RayThackeray Ha! I just realized who I'm talking to. Howdy Ray! Hope you've made some progress on your gearbox and prop. I got my transfer case back together and will install it tomorrow or the next day.
@@SVSeeker We are awaiting few parts for Paul to complete out transmission re-installation and pretty much a total revamp and improvement of the engine and transmission cooling, he's now installing a completely separate pump and circuit for each by adding another engine/belt-driven raw water pump. It's taken us time to order the bits and get them delivered but I think we'll have everything by next Friday...
@@RayThackeray Awesome. Glad it's progressing.
How old are those led lights? looks like a few have failed and more in the process of failing.... I wonder why they don't last like they used to, Is it because they are trying to overdrive them to make them brighter at the expense of last ability?
Over two years and we leave them on 80% of the time.
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I live in Fort Pierce that bridge thier replacing is falling apart
How old is that bridge that can’t be repaired? They only replaced them in Oklahoma when big chunks of concrete started falling off.
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Wire nuts are pretty much a foreign concept for us here in Australia, they aren't sold anywhere, it's a shame. But they also don't trust us to play with their usual use case of mains 240v here without a licence... I wouldn't be surprised if they eventually outlawed wago connectors too.. We are the nation that can't be trusted to do anything really.. Wire nuts make it too convenient for we who are not qualified.
I would love to get out in my shop and make something, but the government said I also need a licence for that haha 😅😅. Love your videos. Cheers.
And despite all of the rules and regulations to control your life they tell you that you live in a Free Country. : )
The government is right not to trust unlicensed individuals to do wring work on 240 volts. But you should be aware that doesn't physically stop you from electrocuting yourself or setting fire to your own home because you got it wrong. Any how there is always insurance to help you rebuild your house, wait I forgot you won't have insurance because your unlicensed. It is still a choice.
@@SVSeeker Lies, it's all lies! it's definitely not a free country... We now also have the most expensive passport in the world... They won't even let us escape this place without extorting us for a little book with a photo in it... But seriously it's pretty bad here. I'll be on the coast, off Sydney, wishfully waiting for the good vessel Seeker to pull in so I can stow away... I can dream I guess :) I mean it's not even that far! See you when you get here, she is more than capable!
@@zorbakaput8537 thankyou for making me aware of this issue... I wasn't too sure, I mean, I didn't think the pixies in the power point could hurt me because I couldn't see them.. I will reconsider pulling my Power points off the wall and chewing the cables.... But yes, I do agree with what you said. I do not condone or perform unlicensed electrical work, simply just making a point about the wire nuts not being available here. Im sorry if I upset you in some way ... But in relation to causing electrical fires with dodgy work, extra low voltage, ie 12v DC etc can be worked on by any man and his dog and although wont electrocute you, could definitely cause electrical fires.. actually, screw it, maybe they should ban DC work too, we can't be trusted.
Oh and it isn't a choice at all. We aren't trusted to make a choice
With led they won't show continuity through the light like incondesent
And remember if you're left handed always twist the wire with your right hand.
You wouldn’t be having these problems if you had used marine spec wire I.e. tinned wire.
And that is a full load of house shit. : )
some of the leds are buned out
Check out liquid electrical tape
❤️ wire nuts rock! I have actually crimped a 14 guage stranded copper with a copper closed eye and had zero volts pass across, it was one out of a million crimp fails, but with low voltage systems there is failure. Also with wire nuts, the metallic insert polishes the wires as you twist.
Grounding issue
Some LED's in the globe dead and others flickering...
Oh NUTS ⁉️ 😂😂😂😂😂 🙈👍🏻
arr im first watch from australia doug followed from the start you have become part of my life keeping up with your fit out of seeker great diy build a real famous boat now cheers
Earth wire disconnected
Funny
today i move 2tone of coal by my bare hands
How dare you assume the gender of the wire connectors? We have Wire Ovaries in our shop….. We asked them.
I cant b-positive I am b-negative ;-0
noo not reach arounds and lug nuts ewwww
Pls stop using the word girl to describe something weak. It is super unfair.
love u!
Well, unless what you call a girl has a pair of testicles I think physically weak is scientifically and statistically accurate. So suck it up, buttercup.
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In my defense of weak handshakes, my right hand has a lingering knuckle injury and I will piss my pants from pain if it gets squeezed too hard.
Never punch someone full strength, even if you feel you have to.
Hello first comment
I always thought tined wire was a Coast Guard thing.
Please don’t leave those wire nuts in there lol.
Why?
@@alnov2722The boat will sink, LOL
@@alnov2722 they attract sea squirrels
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