Lots of comments about the plastic zipties: If you watched the video, the muffler and exhaust are bolted to the chassis. The zip ties were used to hold it in place while I bolted it.
I've replayed your video at least 3 or 4 times --> Great stuff!! Very informative. In case anyone in 2024 is referring to this, you may likely be purchasing the 'MCS7 kit.' After calling Rixen's twice today with various questions, Andrew Smith being very helpful, informed me that for the MCS7 kit (as opposed to the MCS6 kit in the video) a Rixen Thermostat is not necessary with the current, new, model (MCS7). Under The Radar, I greatly appreciate you making this video. This was very helpful and informative. As I recently purchased a Ford Transit I appreciate the insight into needing the special Ford gas tank attachment.
Have you had any problems siphoning gas with that attachment? I haven't yet finished building out the heated floor but after purchasing that $25 yellow/blue tank snap-on and attaching it, when I suck to confirm placement, I don't get any gasoline in the line. Only the fumes of gas. Do I need any extra attachments for the tank or did you do anything else special for it? (Hopefully I don't run into any problems once I get it all set up and I presume when I 'prime' the line before running I'll know...)
the aux siphon only goes down 3/4 of the way to the bottom so after you attach that, you need to refill the gas tank at least a quarter way for the straw to reach the gas.
first video i see whole process to installing the furnace and loops, thank you so much wish to watching how to get the hot water pumping out of shower and kitchen area thks again
1- Power (+) of car battery, 2- Power (+) of house battery, 3- Ground (-) of your house or car battery. You will need 12V DC at 20A so a Jackery will not cut it.
Thanks for the video. I have a Rixen system as well. Quick question. I am not getting hot air or hot water. Ni discovered a leak in one of the water lines. Wonder if that is causing my issues?
Great information, great presentation thank you for not involving on camera your annoying girl friend like 95% of van videos, I'm just here to learn not fulfill her need for attention.
I think you oriented the muffler incorrectly. There should be a weep hole opposite the screw hole to let moisture out. It should be facing down which means the screw hole is at the top. If you don’t do this, water will pool in the muffler and you will start getting error codes.
Thanks for this great information. I'll no doubt be using this video to help me install my own. Did u buy the optional part that uses the vehicles heat too?
Interesting. I don't have a van yet but hydraunic heating is a must when I do. I'm curious what the fuel burn is when it is cold outside? Ford makes a diesel Transit? I thought you said diesel in the video.
Fuel consumption is negligible considering the thermostat shuts it off half the time. I'm guessing one cup of gas lasts throughout the night. The heated wall next to my bed is the best thing ever. So worth it if you are willing to put the time in.
@@undertheradarvan was just thinking the same. Or steel zip ties. Exhaust is typically about 700F or thereabouts. No plastic anywhere near the exhaust system 😕
The engine heat loop is a closed loop that needs its own pump. You cut into the engine coolant line and run ThAT through a heat exchanger. What you install is the line that runs through the other end of the heat exchanger.
@@undertheradarvan Yeah, I understand. I have a DIY version of this in my own van and do not have a pump on the engine side. The engine loop side is tee'd off the heater core lines and the engines own coolant pump pushes it through the added loop that goes to the heat exchanger. So unless you're using the Espar to pre-heat the engine, it's unnecessary, hence the reason Rixen doesn’t sell it in the kit.
@@Dr.Thundy the engine loop pump is also usefull even if you don't preheat your engine: you can use it to keep circulating your engine coolant through the plate exchanger even after you've stopped the engine, until it gets cool, you could even link the pump to a switch that automatically turns it off when the coolant temperature falls down to a set temp...
You don't need a tap for the heater mounting plate attach screw. The heater hardware kit comes with a self tapping screw which should be used as per heater instructions as it is intended to be a partial interference fit to avoid the screw coming loose. I re-watched several times and you are pretty clear from a viewer standpoint that you used plastic zip ties to reinforce metal clamp and as primary attachment for the exhaust pipe. If watching please don't do this and in fact use a fiberglass type insulation to isolate the exhaust heat if it comes near any plastic. On my install the exhaust is near the rear shocks plastic dust shroud and with crazy suspension movement could possibly touch the exhaust pipe so I added some stick on insulation designed to protect from car exhaust pipe and muffler heat. If doing floor heating loops I recommend way more loops over the whole floor for it to really help heat and feel warm. I did my loops with 8" spacing (3/8" PEX) and heat spreader plates and I can still feel the cooler areas between the floor pipe runs. It's not bad but I wouldn't want to spread them out much further like the single floor loop shown as your trying to maximize the heat transfer through conduction (most efficient) between the PEX pipe wall and floor top surface. There are lots of other videos with good high density floor loop layout examples. While its a lot of work to install, the heat is great when its -5'F outside overnight while skiing.
I stopped reading your comment after you said a self tapping screw is better than a bolt. No it is not. Ever. And you absolutely need to tap that thread for the bolt, there is no downside to this.
Only stated tapping wasn't required, nothing wrong with going above and beyond, but others may not wish to purchase a tap which is implied in video as required. Pg 18 of manual states the following. "Insert the heater in the bracket and use screw M6 x 16, SW T30 to fix onto the bracket (tightening torque: 10+1 Nm), see Picture 5. Note. A thread-forming screw is used to fix the heater onto the standard bracket. It is not necessary to pre-cut a thread. The thread is formed by the screw on screwing it into the tapping hole. 3.4.2 Mounting instructions for thread-forming screws. Position screw by hand and screw in. Always keep to the given tightening torque. When screwing for the second time also position by hand and do not cut a new thread. The thread-forming screw is suitable for max. 6 installation attempts. In case of repair (removal of heater) a metric screw (M6 x 16) can be used as an alternative."
NEVER connect a heating system to your engine Fuel tank. the fuel tank is for the Engine only. You will run out of fuel. Install a separate fuel 10- 15 gallon tank or Propane tank for the heating system.
The auxiliary tap only goes down 3/4 of the way into the cars fuel tank. You will NEVER run out of fuel. The Heater will simply stop working when you get down to a quarter tank. This is standard on ALL modern auxiliary ports.
@@StallionJames1 my daughter has a 2023 Mercedes Sprinter 2500 ext high van and we had the extra large fuel tank. the heating system is the same as videoed here
@@manuelrivera6873 Ok< So what is your point ? Or did you miss my point. No matter how large your fuel tank is separate fuel tanks are always better an you will never wake up stranded.
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Lots of comments about the plastic zipties: If you watched the video, the muffler and exhaust are bolted to the chassis. The zip ties were used to hold it in place while I bolted it.
I've replayed your video at least 3 or 4 times --> Great stuff!! Very informative.
In case anyone in 2024 is referring to this, you may likely be purchasing the 'MCS7 kit.' After calling Rixen's twice today with various questions, Andrew Smith being very helpful, informed me that for the MCS7 kit (as opposed to the MCS6 kit in the video) a Rixen Thermostat is not necessary with the current, new, model (MCS7).
Under The Radar, I greatly appreciate you making this video. This was very helpful and informative. As I recently purchased a Ford Transit I appreciate the insight into needing the special Ford gas tank attachment.
The exhaust pipe and muffler get to over 400F which will melt those zip ties, use factory holes or wire to hole it in place
Great video!!!!
Have you had any problems siphoning gas with that attachment? I haven't yet finished building out the heated floor but after purchasing that $25 yellow/blue tank snap-on and attaching it, when I suck to confirm placement, I don't get any gasoline in the line. Only the fumes of gas. Do I need any extra attachments for the tank or did you do anything else special for it? (Hopefully I don't run into any problems once I get it all set up and I presume when I 'prime' the line before running I'll know...)
the aux siphon only goes down 3/4 of the way to the bottom so after you attach that, you need to refill the gas tank at least a quarter way for the straw to reach the gas.
first video i see whole process to installing the furnace and loops, thank you so much wish to watching how to get the hot water pumping out of shower and kitchen area thks again
I opted not to do the hot water loop because butting into the engine coolant line would have invalidated the warranty. Sorry I can’t help with that.
Good video! I don’t recall you showing the engine coolant hook in. If that part was left out it would be big help to do a second video.
Decided not to do that until my three year Ford manufacturers warranty ran out, as it would void it. Will def do a second video on it eventually.
@@undertheradarvan I came to the same conclusion, but still wanted to see someone els do it. 😀
Can you show how you connected wires 1, 2, and 3.
1- Power (+) of car battery, 2- Power (+) of house battery, 3- Ground (-) of your house or car battery. You will need 12V DC at 20A so a Jackery will not cut it.
Thanks for the video. I have a Rixen system as well. Quick question. I am not getting hot air or hot water. Ni discovered a leak in one of the water lines. Wonder if that is causing my issues?
Is it giving you fault codes in the app?
Got any titanium Zip Ties
Do you know the Ford part number and name of the new fuel connector? Great how to video.
Six months to install it?
The plumbing aspect took about 3-4 weekends, but you need to build out your full electrical to finish and test it, which takes many more months.
Great info thanks 👍👍🚙🚙
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice👌
Thanks 😊
Great information, great presentation thank you for not involving on camera your annoying girl friend like 95% of van videos, I'm just here to learn not fulfill her need for attention.
I think you oriented the muffler incorrectly. There should be a weep hole opposite the screw hole to let moisture out. It should be facing down which means the screw hole is at the top. If you don’t do this, water will pool in the muffler and you will start getting error codes.
Thanks for this great information. I'll no doubt be using this video to help me install my own. Did u buy the optional part that uses the vehicles heat too?
That’s the engine heat kit and 12V pump. Yes I included that and recommend it.
With the vibrations would you not want a rubber insulated clamp
Interesting. I don't have a van yet but hydraunic heating is a must when I do. I'm curious what the fuel burn is when it is cold outside? Ford makes a diesel Transit? I thought you said diesel in the video.
Fuel consumption is negligible considering the thermostat shuts it off half the time. I'm guessing one cup of gas lasts throughout the night. The heated wall next to my bed is the best thing ever. So worth it if you are willing to put the time in.
If I may: I would use stainless steel Zip Ties instead of the plastic ones, under a van.
@@undertheradarvan was just thinking the same. Or steel zip ties. Exhaust is typically about 700F or thereabouts. No plastic anywhere near the exhaust system 😕
@@undertheradarvan😂😂😂
Unless you're using the heater to preheat the engine, the engine heat side doesn't need a pump, it will naturally flow.
The engine heat loop is a closed loop that needs its own pump. You cut into the engine coolant line and run ThAT through a heat exchanger. What you install is the line that runs through the other end of the heat exchanger.
@@undertheradarvan Yeah, I understand. I have a DIY version of this in my own van and do not have a pump on the engine side. The engine loop side is tee'd off the heater core lines and the engines own coolant pump pushes it through the added loop that goes to the heat exchanger. So unless you're using the Espar to pre-heat the engine, it's unnecessary, hence the reason Rixen doesn’t sell it in the kit.
@@Dr.Thundy the engine loop pump is also usefull even if you don't preheat your engine: you can use it to keep circulating your engine coolant through the plate exchanger even after you've stopped the engine, until it gets cool, you could even link the pump to a switch that automatically turns it off when the coolant temperature falls down to a set temp...
Rixen is SO EXPENSIVE. are there any alternatives?
It is possible to source all the parts yourself and not buy the Rixen kit to save yourself a few grand. That’s like a million little purchases though.
You don't need a tap for the heater mounting plate attach screw. The heater hardware kit comes with a self tapping screw which should be used as per heater instructions as it is intended to be a partial interference fit to avoid the screw coming loose. I re-watched several times and you are pretty clear from a viewer standpoint that you used plastic zip ties to reinforce metal clamp and as primary attachment for the exhaust pipe. If watching please don't do this and in fact use a fiberglass type insulation to isolate the exhaust heat if it comes near any plastic. On my install the exhaust is near the rear shocks plastic dust shroud and with crazy suspension movement could possibly touch the exhaust pipe so I added some stick on insulation designed to protect from car exhaust pipe and muffler heat. If doing floor heating loops I recommend way more loops over the whole floor for it to really help heat and feel warm. I did my loops with 8" spacing (3/8" PEX) and heat spreader plates and I can still feel the cooler areas between the floor pipe runs. It's not bad but I wouldn't want to spread them out much further like the single floor loop shown as your trying to maximize the heat transfer through conduction (most efficient) between the PEX pipe wall and floor top surface. There are lots of other videos with good high density floor loop layout examples. While its a lot of work to install, the heat is great when its -5'F outside overnight while skiing.
I stopped reading your comment after you said a self tapping screw is better than a bolt. No it is not. Ever. And you absolutely need to tap that thread for the bolt, there is no downside to this.
Only stated tapping wasn't required, nothing wrong with going above and beyond, but others may not wish to purchase a tap which is implied in video as required. Pg 18 of manual states the following. "Insert the heater in the bracket and use screw M6 x 16, SW T30 to fix onto the bracket (tightening torque: 10+1 Nm), see Picture 5. Note. A thread-forming screw is used to fix the heater onto the standard bracket. It is not necessary to pre-cut a thread. The thread is formed by the screw on screwing it into the tapping hole. 3.4.2 Mounting instructions for thread-forming screws. Position screw by hand and screw in. Always keep to the given tightening torque. When screwing for the second time also position by hand and do not cut a new thread. The thread-forming screw is suitable for max. 6 installation attempts. In case of repair (removal of heater) a metric screw (M6 x 16) can be used as an alternative."
Do not mount as this guy does, it is not safe to you.
Care to elaborate?
$7k+ for a water pump, heat exchangers, and some tubing.
Jesus.
Umm and an Esper hydronic furnace which is $4000 of that $7000. You’re missing that.
NEVER connect a heating system to your engine Fuel tank. the fuel tank is for the Engine only. You will run out of fuel. Install a separate fuel 10- 15 gallon tank or Propane tank for the heating system.
The auxiliary tap only goes down 3/4 of the way into the cars fuel tank. You will NEVER run out of fuel. The Heater will simply stop working when you get down to a quarter tank. This is standard on ALL modern auxiliary ports.
Still its better to have two gas tanks and not affect the vdhi less range.
@@StallionJames1 my daughter has a 2023 Mercedes Sprinter 2500 ext high van and we had the extra large fuel tank. the heating system is the same as videoed here
@@manuelrivera6873 Ok< So what is your point ? Or did you miss my point. No matter how large your fuel tank is separate fuel tanks are always better an you will never wake up stranded.
@@mrgcav not trying to make a point, just commenting what she has, thanks for your reply