I always stay for the end on a George Video! Haha! Thanks for the links at the end! Im going to add this to the playlist. Last 2 days of Bunyan will be uploaded tonight. The episode comes out tomorrow.
We had an issue with the mill cutting at different thicknesses at each end of the bed. Finally discovered the bunks were welded higher to the side rails at the far end than at the beginning. The mill head maintains the same height, riding on the side rails, but the bunks changed height. That one section of mill bed is now off the mill and replaced by another, but we have it as an extra bed section. The bunk height was off by as much as 1/8” in that one section of bed.
I was thinking about your bad bed section, did you see my video of the router sled that fits on my mill? You could put legs on it and use it like that as a flattening table.
Oh I already published the video where I show the cause. It was sawdust getting under the rollers for the head, it's cantilevered so when sawdust gets under it the right side raises about 1/8".
I don't know if you've seen any of Nates videos where we used these beams to do a timber framing demo at the Paul Bunyan show, but it was worth it in the end!
Close enough 9 7/8 to 10 1/8. I suppose that's pretty accurate, but wouldn't it be easy to toe board the log 1/4" higher on one end? As a timber guy, you've got to maintain the highest quality possible. I think 1/4" variation in the pith is basically within reason. Maybe 1/2" to 1/4" is the standard. My favorite way to have wood cut is cut a cap cut, cut a 6/4 slab out of the center, and resaw the half's into rift and quarter sawn lumber. Dries flat and perfect every board, just requires at least about 16" diameter to start. For beams, I'm interested in free of heart center. Do you make those? Twas a nice large pine log. I just came from the two guys tim we frame video at the lumberjack show, it was great to see y'all building the frame. I dropped a comment on his video about some special screw placement on a frame, feel free to have a read
@@clarkpiper6007 every time I do foh beams the bow, for this project we wanted straight as we could make. For these the heart just had to be close to center because the were big beams, 4 by would need more precision .
@@mcsawmill That's fascinating to hear that they bow when FOHC. I've been wanting to use some curved boards for roof beams with crown up, and curved pieces for knee braces. Natural curves, that is, from the log (so the grain is consistient), rather than cutting a block of wood into a curve on a bandsaw and just making run-out on the grain. I like to cut double live edge along a curved log off the sawmill, then trim the sap wood off with a bandsaw or jigsaw after the board has dried. makes a curved heartwood board, with the grain running "striaght" on a curve, strong and fascinating. Thank you for teaching me about the bow on free of heart center beams. Maybe it bows less than a post with the pith that is all over the place. I've planed down some 4x4 posts with the pith running in and out and all around, and those posts dried real crooked.
I was wondering why you weren't planning to make it in 4 cuts. I see now. Gravity really gave you a fight on this one. I thought the log was going over a couple times.
@@mcsawmill I can get reasonably square by accommodating for the irregularities. The cant stops aren't even square to the blade and are supposed to be adjustable, but they don't adjust the right direction. Then there's the issue that at it's max cut height (which is supposed to be 20" but it's actually 18), the head sits at a diagonal.
I always stay for the end on a George Video! Haha! Thanks for the links at the end! Im going to add this to the playlist.
Last 2 days of Bunyan will be uploaded tonight. The episode comes out tomorrow.
@@BissellMapleFarm your Bunyan vids are outstanding. I really enjoyed them.
@mcsawmill Jacob is the key! And Benny. And Brandi. And Austin. And Eric. And George. And Jason. And even Dan.
@BissellMapleFarm Nate, I had so much fun at Bunyan... Thank you!
Good job🎉🎉
That was a big ole pine log. Looks like that pine log made you work for it….
I remember them days, trying to roll them things over by hand. Good job
@@MsdMakingSawDust I bought sawmill to keep me active not to make money. A log turner would be counter productive lol...
Nice save George .
@@williamprophett9148 I only screw up once a year lol...
"Sneak up on it method" I like it.
@@BissellMapleFarm I didn't know how else to describe it.
Is the toeboard all the way down?
@@BissellMapleFarm no it was up till the third cut.
We had an issue with the mill cutting at different thicknesses at each end of the bed. Finally discovered the bunks were welded higher to the side rails at the far end than at the beginning. The mill head maintains the same height, riding on the side rails, but the bunks changed height. That one section of mill bed is now off the mill and replaced by another, but we have it as an extra bed section. The bunk height was off by as much as 1/8” in that one section of bed.
@@andysmith8544 ok that wasn't my problem, for me it turned out to be sawdust, sticky sawdust.
I was thinking about your bad bed section, did you see my video of the router sled that fits on my mill? You could put legs on it and use it like that as a flattening table.
Im pretty sure Austin roughed it up. 😂😂
@@BissellMapleFarm ok sure blame Austin. Like I've never seen you run the tractor lol.
@@mcsawmillFire. Aim. Ready.
Curious do you know why it’s cutting like that??
@@TheWildWestMill yes... Stay tuned lol.
Oh I already published the video where I show the cause. It was sawdust getting under the rollers for the head, it's cantilevered so when sawdust gets under it the right side raises about 1/8".
@ I get the same problem with bark sometimes especially having to saw old logs most of the time I cut some funny looking wedges lol
Looks like you had one of them days George
I don't know if you've seen any of Nates videos where we used these beams to do a timber framing demo at the Paul Bunyan show, but it was worth it in the end!
I see why you have log turner envy. You cut a lot of big big logs I bet your next mill will have a log turner on her lol
@@TheWildWestMill it's a 36" sawmill. There are 100 sawmills within 10 miles of me. Most don't want big logs.
Close enough 9 7/8 to 10 1/8. I suppose that's pretty accurate, but wouldn't it be easy to toe board the log 1/4" higher on one end? As a timber guy, you've got to maintain the highest quality possible. I think 1/4" variation in the pith is basically within reason. Maybe 1/2" to 1/4" is the standard. My favorite way to have wood cut is cut a cap cut, cut a 6/4 slab out of the center, and resaw the half's into rift and quarter sawn lumber. Dries flat and perfect every board, just requires at least about 16" diameter to start. For beams, I'm interested in free of heart center. Do you make those? Twas a nice large pine log. I just came from the two guys tim we frame video at the lumberjack show, it was great to see y'all building the frame. I dropped a comment on his video about some special screw placement on a frame, feel free to have a read
@@clarkpiper6007 every time I do foh beams the bow, for this project we wanted straight as we could make. For these the heart just had to be close to center because the were big beams, 4 by would need more precision .
@@mcsawmill That's fascinating to hear that they bow when FOHC. I've been wanting to use some curved boards for roof beams with crown up, and curved pieces for knee braces. Natural curves, that is, from the log (so the grain is consistient), rather than cutting a block of wood into a curve on a bandsaw and just making run-out on the grain.
I like to cut double live edge along a curved log off the sawmill, then trim the sap wood off with a bandsaw or jigsaw after the board has dried. makes a curved heartwood board, with the grain running "striaght" on a curve, strong and fascinating.
Thank you for teaching me about the bow on free of heart center beams. Maybe it bows less than a post with the pith that is all over the place. I've planed down some 4x4 posts with the pith running in and out and all around, and those posts dried real crooked.
I was wondering why you weren't planning to make it in 4 cuts. I see now. Gravity really gave you a fight on this one. I thought the log was going over a couple times.
@@thehappychiselllc it seems like it should be really simple. But the truth is wood moves, either when you cut it or when you dry it.
You had that problem before.
@@brucewelty7684 yep glad you noticed. I did finally figure it out.
No fun milling them and they move 👍🏻
@@SwampSawyer I have fun every time I saw. It's my escape.
@ I’m with you but it can be frustrating when you are trying to get a beam or mantle and you look back and it’s curled like a hockey stick 🤣🤣
Hey, at least you can get square cuts. My Frontier brand mill is generally not square, no matter what I do. Shoddy piece of equipment.
@@erikleorga have you tried squaring off the blade?
@@mcsawmill I can get reasonably square by accommodating for the irregularities. The cant stops aren't even square to the blade and are supposed to be adjustable, but they don't adjust the right direction. Then there's the issue that at it's max cut height (which is supposed to be 20" but it's actually 18), the head sits at a diagonal.