SHAFT STIFFNESS, TIPPING, AND TRIMMING - What happens when we cut a golf shaft from either end
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2020
- Do you know what happens to shaft stiffness when we trim a golf shaft? Tip trimming or butt trimming can change the shaft stiffness of your golf clubs. We look at how shaft stiffness changes when you tip trim or butt cut. We also look at measuring stiffness using a frequency meter, deflection board, and using bend profiles or EI curves. Also learn to read a bend profile chart. Finally we discuss which of these methods works best.
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You do a really good job of breaking technical concepts into easy to understand explanations.
Wow AJ ! Your explanation of complex matters is superb !
Such an informative video. Even clarified Flex Codes. Great video!
Thanks for watching. Sorry the audio wasn't great in that video.
...great insight on shaft particulars here !
AJ, I just subscribed to your channel, I feel like it is golf tech for dummies, your ability to explain this is superior in my book, I am 74 and shoot my age, just went from stiff flex to regular and this helped me get my bend, flex and shaft weight to the best for my 89 mph swing speed, thanks man, you are good at 'splainin this terminology, even an old man can do it!
Thanks for the support Tom!
Excellent explanation. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the support!
Wow. Great video! I feel like I've been sitting in calculus class.
Thanks, although I'm not sure about being compared to sitting in a calculus class. Assuming it was a really great calc teacher!!
AJ, big thank you. I now realize why things feel a little funky between clubs - because I ordered new product online and made club shaft length changes before discovering your channel!
I am 6'2" and my WRF is 36" says I should play clubs +.5 inch. (I learned this from you!)
Taking up golf again after a decade off (twin boys). Been playing again in covid - my 7-iron carries 160 yards 84 mph chs straight but ball flight is high.
Question 1:
Given I ordered my clubs at a store that doesn't build clubs, I assume they didn't do any fitting other than basics of length and lie.
Taylormade Burner 2.0 (hardly used!!)
Here is where I think I am at roughly...
standard D3.5
added .5 inch + D6.5
standard grip 47 gms
replaced with Jumbo XL Super Light grip 50 gms roughly = D6
So here is where I think I am at D6 ish - I can buy a scale and use an online calculator to confirm.
But here is my question - the clubs at the time felt the best in the fit - BUT I guess I was swinging the standard length in store D3.5.
But now with the extra length and changes, what swing weight or range of swing weight should I be working towards for my +1/2 inch irons?
I was thinking to tinker and add weight to the butt end of the club to bring the swing weight down to back to around D3.5 as a starting point?
See how that feels. I have 100 gms of lead tape arriving tomorrow!
Or am I missing something?
As for a performance check, I would like to see a more penetrating ball flight - as for feel, They feel ok, but my elbows got sore when I started back, I am on top of that now, after months of work on it. So interested in injury prevention too.
Eventually, I will get properly fit, but want to gain more speed before then. So happy to tinker for now.
I did something similar. Also I've watched a bunch of videos on this topic, but no one addressed rebalancing the club... (swingweight, shaft weight, head weight, shaft stiffness). This is the first time I've seen someone get into the details... THANK YOU
I had a spare stiff shaft (i use Reg), so I got it cut 1.5" at the tip as well as at the butt. In theory Driver went from.a D4 SW to B4. Not sure where i want to be so I'm starting at a SW of D0, which means 32 grams of the shaft head. With that much weight the shaft is more like and extra soft senior, hence why I also cut off the tip of the shaft. Now I should have a 42" driver, with a D0 SW and a Reg shaft. In theory lol... Can't wait to try it out.
Also did something similar to my 5 Wood :)
Great delivery of the subject, thank you..👍
I have a 2 Reg flex OEM shafts I am hoping to fit to a 7 wood and a 5 wood to create stiff shaft flex by trimming the tips now feel better about doing so after seeing this video.
Happy to hear it was helpful. Thanks for your support.
Up date on the 7W and 5W exercise, simply brilliant results, at first i was worried a Driver R - flex Speeder shaft tipped 1 1/2 inches went too far, the feel had left the club, it felt too stiff. 5W was not as dramatic. However now after 50 rounds the feel is is back, 7W makes 210-235 yards straight, 5 wood just 10 yards further. It seems that both shafts need to "broken in" strange I know ! I am very pleased with the results.. Thank you for your delivery on the topic.
Great video with rick of helpful information. Can you make a video on the change of torque when tipping and trimming also? Thank you.
Hey you have great videos and allway enjoy them. Ive been building my own clubs en fitting the for +-15 years from my own clubs for q school to some of my friends my question i recently reshafted a stadard callaway xr driver with a ping high ballance stif shaft from another driver.. The shaft was extracted by somone els Nd the grafite flaired nd had to be cut a inch and a half i put the shaft in and little lead at the bottom but in an extention at the butt of the shaft it now plays 44.5 with a swingweiht of D1. 5 and it was D1. 5 before wil the shaft play stiffer or the same becuase i put the amount of weight on the head foe it to be D1. 5 again
The reason i asked after watching the video is because of the amount i took of more than 1.5 inches
I like your style
Thanks John Jones
A.J. thanks for the clear explanation of tip vs. butt cut. Question: How does Shaft Torque effect its playability? I have noticed as Driver Shafts have gotten increasingly lighter (54g) it's torque has increased (6.0d). Where as old school (88g) Driver Shafts Torque (2.4d). Thanks!
Torque usually moves in tandem with both weight and stiffness. The heavier and stiffer the shaft gets, the more the torsional stiffness increases. Harder swings benefit from lower torque.
Torque values have gone up a bit over the years as designers can improve stability using different materials that don't require dropping the torque so much.
I trust the shaft OEMs and don't ever worry about torque numbers. If you get a shaft with the correct weight, and flex, whatever torque goes with that should be fine.
Thanks
Thanks the amazing videos. I learnt a lot from them.
I have a Tsi3 driver 45.5"' that I would cut to help me with accuracy. I tried few time to put my hands lower on the grip and I saw big difference. So, if my understanding is good, with a butt cut (where the grip is) the shaft will be a little bit stifness, but not that much ? Thanks again.
Correct. Little stiffer, little lighter static and swing weights. The weight will be what you notice more than anything else.
@@EFGMC Thanks a lot AJ. That's really appreciate. Now, my next goal is to find somewhere to buy used fitting tools.. ;)
I've just gotten callaway rogue x regular flex or stiff. And I wanted them all one length, preferably wedge length.
Would that be alright?
would I have to adjust my lie?
will it effect my loft?
Isn't golf about your own game?
They are our tools to the game, so I was wondering about these questions.
The biggest problem you will run into is the head weights. A wedge head weight much more than a 5 iron head (the increase is about 7g per iron as they go up in loft). This means when you cut them all down to a wedge length, the long irons are going to feel extremely light compared to the short irons. You will need to add a good amount of weight back to the heads to get a consistent weight feel.
The lie angles will also be off on the longer clubs and would need to be bent more upright.
The specific lofts will not change, however the incorrect lie angles will alter the face angles also so that all the longer clubs will have a greater likelihood of missing to the right (assuming right handed golfer).
Not saying you can't or shouldn't do it but you want to be aware of these things before you start chopping shafts down.
This video is great. Do you advocate playing the same shaft in driver and 3 wood? And if so how much would you cut from each end? For reference my driver is 45.75” and 3 wood 43”. I’ve just put the hzrdus green smoke 6.0 in driver and it’s perfect for my swing, and now I’m thinking I should try it in my 3 wood too.
I like similar shafts in both but I prefer going up in weight with the 3 wood. Shaft tipping will usually be the same for both with most shafts.
What a great explanation and very detailed, no one else is doing what you do on RUclips. So can i ask to be clear in my mind, if i butt trim a 45.5 inch driver by 1 inch, but then put on a lightweight grip 23grams compared to a 56 gram grip, it would make up for the loss of 6 swing weights and the shaft would play a tad stiffer, is that all correct? Sorry for the long drawn out question :)
If you only lighten the grip and don't add weight to the head then yes the shaft will feel a bit stiffer.
So I have an old r7 quatro driver i want to experiment with. I want to cutt it down to 40 inches. It's a reg flex shaft and the original length is 45". I play a stiff shaft normally and I have the weight to add to make it playable. My questions: would you cutt any off the tip? Maybe 1 inch off the tip and the rest from the butt? Or would it be best to just butt trim only to reach a stiff flex with a d4 - d9 end swing weight. Note: i would rather error towards extra stiff flex. Thx.
I would take some off the tip, maybe even 1.5 inches. I am not sure if Taylormade originally tipped that shaft if it's the original. Going that short, you may end up wanting to move up a weight class in the shaft.
Your opinion please. What will most likely occur if you tip a shaft too much (say 1 1/2 inches) and then add that same amount as an extension on the butt end? Will the shaft still perform as originally intended or will the dynamics be ruined?
To start, it will be stiffer feeling for sure. As far as how it plays related to how it was designed, that will depend somewhat on the profile of the shaft. If the shaft was more linear in profile, it will in theory remain more consistent to it's original design. However if the tip section was designed to be noticeably stiffer or softer, you will have removed some of that feature, thereby creating something different. No ruined necessarily, but different from what it was supposed to be.
AJ, do you have any data on graphite shafts becoming softer over a year or two as the coating and shaft fibers stretch and relax?
I don't, but I would say that it will take many years of repeat use before you would see any change in performance just based on equipment in tour players bags for multiple years. I suppose the more aggressive the shaft load and release, the faster a shaft could wear out, but I think that is just one of numerous variables that could impact the time and wear question.
I enjoyed this video.Do you have any idea how much tipping a shaft would change the torque. I heard that for every inch of tipping it reduces the torque by .5 degrees. I guess the only way to test that would be with a pure machine. Thanks for your insights on this.
Honestly not sure. I personally put limited stock in any torque value so it's not something I have investigated. Suppose it would depend on what the tip torque value is vs. the butt end torque.
You would need a torque gauge to measure all this, not a SST Pure machine.
@@EFGMC Thanks for taking time to reply,
Question: Is there a matrix for tip-cut and butt-cut (at various increments) and associating to control. For instance, tip-cutting gives me more centered strikes and straighter shots. Butt-cutting doesn't.
Tip cutting usually goes in 1/2 inch increments so that the flex stays consistent when matching up to different weight heads. The head weights get lighter as you go longer to compensate for that length. You can change the tipping measurements but would almost always keep a consistent tip cut difference from one iron to the next (ie still 1/2 inch increments). Butt cutting is simply done to adjust the final playing length.
You really made a complex subject easy to understand. If I am taking a raw shaft to a club maker, what would I need to tell him/her besides the overall final length of the driver? The raw shaft is 46" and I would like my final length to be 44.5".
Usually that is all they will need unless you were wanting to tip trim the shaft to make it stiffer. Most people don't do this unless they swing very fast. Only other detail is usually how you want the shaft graphics aligned. I always install logo down unless someone specifies differently but different builders may not do the same.
Hello sir Thank you for the video. I recently purchased a matrix white tie shaft and a senior flex. My son is a junior golfer has it in his driver and I was going to put it in his 5w. I am unable to find any of the tip trim instructions. Since I will be cutting a section off the butt end to get the club to the right size my question is about the tip trim. Do I understand correctly that if I have no trim versus say half an inch or 1 in the no trim would allow the senior shaft play more like a ladies plus flex? And lead to a higher launch?
Correct. The more tip section you leave, the more the shaft will flex due to the head weight of that 5 wood. Would that lead to higher ball flight? That will depend on the golfer swinging it and where the contact point is on the face.
My guess is the standard tipping for that shaft would be 1 inch for a 5 wood at least that is what I remember for the black tie.
@@EFGMC Thank you. And what would you say is the best way to pull heads from a graphite shaft? I'm not sure I want to spend $220 or more on an extractor but that might be the only way to do it right and not ruin the shaft. Thanks again.
@@kgil35 You can find extractors that work well for around $100. I would definitely recommend one. No real work around, at least that I have found yet.
Hopefully you reply to this, in theory if someone accidentally ordered a 46 inch driver shaft but it was intended for their fairway 3wood and they wanted it cut down let’s say 4 inches, how would a length that drastic affect the specs/stiffness?
No issues. Most shafts are not wood specific. There are a few fairway specific shafts but most are all designed to be played in whatever club you want. They all come at a raw length of 46 or 47 (Fujikura) inches and you butt cut them to length. Only difference is how much you tip trim them first to account for the change in head weight, 3 wood being heavier than driver etc. This will also take care of the flex part of it so a correctly tip trimmed shaft will flex similarly in a fairway wood or driver.
I would say 95% of fairway woods in the world are using shafts that started at 46 inch raws so don't worry. Just find the tip trim recommendations for that shaft.
What is your best way to lighten a heavy hi-brid by 8 swing weights ? I have tried lead tape at but end .
Shorten the shaft.
Great video. If you tip trim, should add a tip weight to keep the same swing weight?
Not a one size fits all answer for this question and it depends on what you are trying to achieve by tipping.
If you tip the shaft, the SW will be lower only if the shaft results in a shorter final length. However if you are tipping at the beginning of a reshaft job and the final club is "standard" length once cut the length, than SW will be the same more or less. Adding head weight will make the shaft feel more flexible.
That's an excellent idea, thanks.
Great video. I am installing putting together a 2 iron. I have a x100 dynamic golf shaft and the general tip info for a 2 iron is to trim .5 inch. I have a 2 iron swing speed of 114 mph. Driver is north of 120mph. What would you recommend on this tip trim? Thanks.
I would probably stick with the .5 unless you play the rest of your clubs with more tipping. Figure you are as fast as the faster PGA guys and most of them are playing X100s without hard stepping or additional tipping. Do you have X100s in 3-p?
@@EFGMC thanks for the recommendation. Yes I have x100 through the set.
Playing mizuno mp 64 4-p and a mp 18 hifli 4 iron that plays like a 3 iron. X100 through all.
@@samjohnson4788 As long as the 2 iron head is inline in weight with the rest of the clubs, keep it the same.
When building a set of clubs, is it standard to have the same swing weight across all clubs?
Manufacturers build sets with consistent SW through the set up to the wedges, which get a point or so higher.
I like my sets to progress a bit from long iron to short so they get heavier. This is the idea behind MOI matching if you've heard the term.
Really just depends on the golfer.
Question about the frequency CPM. When you look for the frequency aren’t you looking at a number at a length measured. If you take an inch off butt end then it has more CPM but also at a shorter length so the stiffness remains about the same. Compared to length
You have hit the nail on the head and the reason I don't like using a frequency meter for anything other than checking shaft radial quality. For a frequency meter to work when dealing with length changes, you also have to make head weight changes. Otherwise you end up with higher numbers when shortening the length from either end. Once you add weight back to the head, you can then see that butt cutting keeps flex more constant while tipping increases stiffness.
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Great video I will add tipping is mostly done for tip deflection purposes so if a player is hitting it I have a groove low hard steeping will make the contact better with a driver 3/4” tipped is the average in a tour van mainly do to drivers just perform better 5mm high
You dont understand EI profiles. You removed much more than an inch. You still have 10 points, but the data at each point is shifted 1". Area under the curve is how stiffness is ranked. You did get the frequency part almost right.
Thanks for the video. Great stuff and new subscriber. Settle a bet for me, are you Jim Furyk's brother?
I wish. Would make procuring Masters tickets easier I would guess!
I believe your conclusion is that cutting a new raw shaft 1” longer than stock for a particular iron, will make the shaft PLAY softer, no matter if that particular shaft is relatively butt stiff or butt soft. For example: I had Dynamic Gold S200 shafts at 1/2” long then went to Modus 3 120 stiff at 1” long. I added a jumbo CP2 pro grip (80 grams) to restore swing weights back to about D4 (from E1 or E2). Also added a few grams of head weight to get to D4 since the grip was so heavy. I found that the Modus feel too soft and produce too much height and spin, loosing me 5+ yards per iron.
My plan is to try a 1” long Project X 6.5 in my 7 iron and a 1” long Dynamic Gold X100 in my 8 iron to see which one feels better and produces a lower spin and trajectory. ( I do understand the shafts I just mentioned have different feels due to different butt stiffnesses) But it seems that the combination of 1” long, an 80 gram grip (counter weight) plus a few grams of lead tape on the iron heads make my current shafts play much softer than expected.
Does this all make sense to you?
Thanks, Joe
(there is a lot of conflicting and confusing information on these issues on the internet!)
Yes that all makes sense. The added length drops the CPM so it can feel softer. And adding head weight will again increase shaft flexibility.
Can't say how much of the trajectory/spin issues are stemming from the softness of the shaft specifically vs the shaft feel influencing your swing sequencing and timing vs a combo of both.
One thing to be aware of is even though the swing weight is D4, the static weight of these clubs is extremely heavy.
One other option would be to look into a more counter balanced shaft to try and even out the SW a bit without all the added grip weight. Something like a KBS Tour 130 or maybe even a graphite option.
@@EFGMC thank you so much for your response. One last question; a friend who is 6'6" claims to have added 3 or 4" of length to his shafts with good success (no other details available) I have no intention of doing this, and have read that people almost never add more than 1". Have you ever heard of adding 3"-4" to a golf shaft!?
@@joebouscaren1 I have one golf buddy who plays his irons 2 inches over and has for a long time. He is 6'4 with shorter arms. Plays Recoil 95g to help with the weight. But in general like you said, 1 to maybe 1 1/2 over is the most I would ever recommend unless there are mobility issues etc.
Here is the one simple question
Cut the tip an inch and extend the butt an inch- does this stiffen the shaft relative to its original state? This is my thought to stiffen wedge shafts a bit- or even 1.5” 1.5”
Yes, that would stiffen the overall profile because you are removing some of the softest portion of the shaft and adding on stiffer material on the butt end. Even if the extension itself may be softer compared to the graphite at the butt end, the fact that you epoxy it in, stiffens the entire butt end. Same applies for steel.
Great video, I Just purchased a stealth plus 10.5 driver with a HZRDUS RDX 60 extra stiff (6.5) and I want to cut it down and add weight. I have a question! If my swing speed is about 100mph, and its already an extra stiff shaft, won’t it play great because if the length is removed from the butt, it will maintain integrity? Also, is it better to trim a softer shaft or stiffer in your experience?
I want to learn to really muscle it at around 43.5”, as the stealth plus does have som serious pop, i just want to learn to shot shape with it and have fun. I’m like a 10-12 handicapper, been playing for 2 years but I play a ton.
Thank you very much!!
Pete
Tip trimming an extra stiff is what many professionals do as they don't want to feel much flex in the shaft. Whether you tip an X flex or an R flex, the result will be the same. Just makes the shafts overall stiffness increase, but not as much as actually going up in flex from R to S or S to X.
@@EFGMC ok understood, thank you! I’m currently on a try and buy with the stealth plus through the taylormade + app membership. I just hurt my wrist working on my bmw, so I can’t really hit it during this two week trial period smh. My first thought is that given the current inability to really hit it during the trial period, i’m kind of throwing money at something i’m not really sure is a best fit. I mayn send it back for no charge, wait till I heal, and pick one up with a regular or stiff flex to hit that first. Before purchasing the x stiff with nothing to go off of. Would you recommend something less stiff at length 43.5 for swing speed around 100? My wrist sits 33 inches from the ground at my side. And i’m 6’1”. Thank you very much!!
@@pistolpeteysouth Will really be player dependent as to what feels right at that length. Also will depend on what swing weight you go with. A lighter head will make the shaft feel stiffer.
@@EFGMC Thanks, and yes, i think i’m going to go down to a stiff shaft, rather than extra stiff. I hit 40 balls with it today and I believe I’d benefit from just a bit more of a load so I don’t have to kill the ball every time I want to hit the ball 280-300 yards. Have a great weekend!
ok, I'm convinced - shortening a shaft either way will always make it stiffer.
Flex always should be linked to head weight as that makes a massive difference in how the shaft flexes and feels. If the golfer never adds back weight to the head then the shaft will always feel stiffer when shortened. However if they add weight back to bring SW back up, it needs to be part of the equation.
@@EFGMC I know, I just put gobs of leadtape on a butt cutdown to bring SW up to it's original...and it felt like a Ladie's flex when I was done...peeled all of it back off and it felt nice and stiff.
...gonna start tip trimming from now on !
1. Great video.
2. Get what your referencing about frequency, but I think you should not down play it too much, granted you emphasized the consistency aspect of it, but its obviously a great baseline measurement. , via, if we do deflection and bend profile, we still can end result the frequency to dial in a set.
3. The deflection example really nails home the point of weight addition if you cut the shaft. ..., seeing your excellent overlay example, the butt will raise the deflection, but raise it far less than the tip, and to get more deflection, after a cut, will have to add head weight. Plus nice to explain the flex numbers from a tip or butt cut. 😎👍 that was very informative.
4. Now I'm thinking, the industry needs a head weight to flex parameter. I'm a frequent golfworks guy, and love how they break down flex and playability factor etc. .... but obviously to really dial in something, we need a head weight to length factorbility measurable.
Again, great video, took some good notes on it, .. definitely, supports my idea of cutting from the butt, and or finding the best flex and length that needs the least amount of material taken off.
Seems, if your a below standard length guy, better get a flex less, just to cut back into your desired flex.
Because, I'm a suggested .75 below standard guy, and no wonder when I was buying s , and get to cutting, I'm creating a even more stiffer profile than what fitted me.
Now, I gotta figure out the maturation of head weight, flex and length. Lol.
So ....using that principal....trimming each end equal....keeps the shaft somewhat the same stiffness?
Yes, in theory. However you need to trim different amounts to account for head weights. Heavier head requires more tipping to support that weight. Also if you cut down a driver, but don't add head weight for swing weight, the shaft will act stiffer vs adding weight back.
Quick question, I just ordered a new tensei ck pro blue stiffshaft for my TSI3. The TSI3 plays at 45.5 standard. I asked them to cut it down to play at 45. I added 4 grams to the head weight to bring the swing weight back up. Went to hit it in the range and it the shafts feels way too loose. Almost like a regular flex. Would that be because when they cut the shaft, the cut from the butt end? Then I added weight back, making the tip okay softer than it usually does? Would it make sense to tip it like 1/4th if an inch to bring it back to its regular stiffness?
Correct, added head weight will loosen the shaft feel. 1/4 inch tipping will likely not change anything enough to make it worth while. 1/2 inch might show a feel difference. Assume that tipping 1 full inch will increase the stiffness a half flex with no head weight change. Might need to add a extension to the butt end and tip more.
Or remove some of the extra head weight and see how it plays for you at lighter SW.
@@EFGMC makes sense. If I order a custom club from a manufacturer, and ask them to have it play at 45, do they take that into consideration and cut it in a way that doesn’t change the shaft profile, while still getting the swing weight right?
Also, what would be the correct way to cut down a shaft when still wanting it to play the same profile and swing weight?
@@jantzenadams4261 No they don't. They will only do what you ask them to, and this is at best limited as to what they will and won't do. If you really want that level of detail, you need to go to a club builder who knows how this works.
so are you saying you should always add weight when you are shortening a shaft?
Adding weight shortens the shaft
I want to play my driver shorter but not lose feel of tip. Since I will be adding weight to head to maintain optimal swing weight is there a ratio of weight to tip cutting to maintain tip flex?
Half an inch length change is about 5-6g added head weight to keep the swing weight and shaft flex.
@@EFGMC I understand that part but should I remove some from tip first before cutting butt end to final length so tip flex remains same or am I overthinking this?
@@dennissmith1904 Would depend how much weight you plan on adding back. You could tip trim a 1/2 inch if you wanted. That only stiffens the shaft about 1/4 to 1/2 a flex.
In new modern knowledge and shaft technology, Dynamic measurements replace Static measurements explained in this video. Modern shaft technology concern more on kinetics energy at impact, wobbling that rob power instead of focusing to the ball etc etc.. so we can say that Statics measurements obsolete already.
you should make an updated youtube short
I had a question regarding trimming shafts for a reshaft, is there a way to reach out to you via email? Thank you! Love the videos
aj@smartstake.com
I just bought a callaway iron set and the shaft is TrueTemper XP 85 s300. But in find it too soft for me..I am thinking of tipping it. Can I take half an inch u think to make it stiffer or should I take an inch of it. I am only 5'9" so I dnt mind an inch shorter clubs. My driver clubspeed is 109mph btw. I usually hit my 8iron around 160yrds and now I lost 10yards on every irons with an even stronger lofted callaway 2019 Xhots. It is very frustrating. Please give me your expert advice on this. Thanks in advance.
I am probably more concerned with the weight in your case than the stiffness. At your speed, a 90g iron shaft is probably too light and could lead to inconsistency. So while you could tip trim it and get it a little stiffer, the weight will still be an issue I have a feeling.
@@EFGMC ok then the best would just to either get new irons or new shafts on them. Thank you.
@@jakbayano5420 I think by the time you go through all the effort of pulling the shafts, tipping them, and reinstalling, it would be better to just replace the shafts. Or if you aren't in love with the heads, dumping the clubs all together and finding something else. Again I would probably recommend a shaft in the 110-115g weight based solely on your swing speed.
@@EFGMC agreed. Thank u for the input. Much appreciated coming from a pro clubmaker. I will be selling them asap. Thank you.
What is your frequency machine sir ?
It's a Club Scout 3? Not sure of the number on it.
I have a taylormade m2 driver. It is 45½ stiff graphite. What do i have to do to cut it to 43 inches?
If you're sure you want it 43, I would just butt cut from the grip end and then take it to the range with some lead tape. Start hitting it paying attention to your strike location and ball flight. Start adding lead tape to bring the head feel (swing weight) back up until you get the most consistent results.
If you are unsure you want 43, you can take the same method, but instead of cutting the shaft first, just choke down the shaft in 1/2 or 1 inch intervals again looking at where your strike pattern is tightest, then move to the lead tape from there.
I did a video on this, you might find helpful.
ruclips.net/video/bXgaUC_tKCw/видео.html
Alright I would love to dive in the weeds with you a little bit on this topic. So these days club companies like Titleist and TM are tipping their driver shafts 0.5-1.0 as their “standard.” Yet most shaft manufacturers say no tipping on a driver. I was very curious to why this was different. So I emailed the club companies. Responses were basically the same- we tip them as a recommendation from our R and D department on what they believe will be “true to flex.” I say all that to ask you this.. Drivers are now 45.5 and up as the standard. Shaft manufacturers say recommended length is 45. It just came to me that these club companies are probably tipping because at 45.5 length they would actually play a little softer so they tip them to play the flex that was designed??? I hope that makes sense. Let me know your opinion and if you think I’m on to something, thanks!
Your explanation sounds as good as any I've heard. Likely OEMs are just trying to hit a butt frequency because they deemed that important.
Personally I don't worry about it, from experience if someone likes a shaft, they will still like it tipped 1 inch. Maybe they feel the slight stiffness increase, maybe they see fractionally lower ball flight, but it's a small number of golfers who even notice.
Taylormade does all sorts of interesting tipping. They also soft step if you order irons with True Temper X100s? Why they do it, who knows other than they think it's better for the customer since there is not cost advantage to any of this.
Whe e are you located
Atlanta
If a shaft has been “soft stepped “ how can this be reversed?
In this case for example the 6 iron shaft has been put in the 7 iron and cut to length. If you just pull that 6 iron shaft and move it to the 6 iron, you will still be at 7 iron length. Therefore you will need to extend the shafts a half inch to get them back to "standard" length, unless you plan on playing them short.
Obviously you will end up one shaft short (missing) at the short end of the bag since the PW had the 9 shaft before moving everything and you now won't have the PW shaft for it unless you pull from the other wedges.
Great video. However the information regarding frequency is not totally accurate as you are dealing with a real wobbler. The shaft should have been floed first in both the strong and weak planes. Just my 0.02. Keep up the good work
I don't see anything inaccurate with the fact that adding weight to the head will decrease the frequency measurement. More weight on the tip will make the shaft relatively softer. The "average flex" actually doesn't seem useful, butt trimming isn't making the shaft "softer".
Like 👍, how do I get in touch thanks
Should be able to pull contact off the About tab on my page.
I don’t have all day.
Awesome vide but the background music is so distracting 😶
No argument here. Was trying to cover up some bad audio. At least the music distracted you from the bad audio.
Whooo...admittedly, I ain't very smert...but I'm having a difficult time wrapping my head around this! I comprehend each test on its own merit. What I'm not understanding is why you think bend profile is a more accurate stiffness measurement than frequency or deflection? I understand that for swing weight purposes...it may be more useful. But to make the claim that a shortened shaft is in ACTUALITY "softer" than the original length shaft flies in the face of physics! Just for the sake of argument. If you have a 40"-40 gram shaft. And you cut 1 gram worth from the stiffest end. Then added that 1 gram onto the clubhead (most flexible end)...would the frequency or deflection test show a softer or a stiffer flex than the original length shaft? My bet is on stiffer. If that's true...then the shaft is in ACTUALITY stiffer. of course...if you add a pound of lead to the clubhead it's going to feel softer! But that "feel" doesn't negate the fact that the shaft is ACTUALLY...in reality stiffer! Help AJ...what am I missing?
Enjoy your technical expertise. Not to nitpick, but your audio is bit lacking. The background music isn't adding any benefit . Your voice audio is too harsh. Could be your mic or the area you record in.
This video gets the award for the worst audio by far. Check out some other videos and you will see better quality.
Get rid of the music. It's distracting