With how rare rigid threadless 26” forks are nowadays, I personally would not have converted it to a suspension fork. Neat build though and the parts seem to be well thought out. I’m glad microshift exists as a good budget alternative option as they have really allowed people to upgrade/restore bikes that might not have been desired otherwise.
I just finished a restomod of a 97 Rocky Mountain Equipe, but I did a few things differently. I used the original Raceface crank and got a narrow-wide chainring that fit it, and used a 27.5 fork to give it a more modern head tube angle. Winter showed up before I could try it out, though...
The first bike I ever bought myself aged 18 was a 95 Marin Bear Valley. Loved the chunky look especially those seat stays. I crashed it at 43mph and snapped the top tube in half, some achievement on a steel frame hehe. Replace it with a 95 Marin Eldridge Grade, which was sadly stolen. Thankfully my third bike, a 97 SWorks M2 I still ride :) Third time lucky
Just like your videos on your build on your bikes. I truly enjoyed watching you do your building your bikes. Your great and awesome dude. Also, just keep on rocking and rolling.
Great build. Q. Does an 11 speed cog fit between the dropouts the same as a 10. WhT is the MM requirement for it .I'm trying to do the same to a 1999 Zaskar Le.Thanks.
Hi Really enjoyed this video. Subbed. One thing….was hoping to see the comparison ride you mentioned between this Marin and a modern version but couldn’t find the video?
Hey, it would be great to have a new update segment on explaining with which bike frame that is capable of having upgraded parts on it. As where for example if you have a 1989 bike frame is compatible with update of using 2024 components or would 1990 parts be likely the best parts for a 1989 . Same thing as well for 1990s. Otherwise I love watching you and hopefully that you will get a chance to do update version soon here.
Thanks for comment, I will have a new video out in a couple weeks with the next build, similar to this one. You brought up some great questions, and Ill look into a video discussing what can be updated and changed for older bikes.
Tell me more about it. Are you running a triple chainring crankset or a converting to 1x set up? Most of the time the crankset only matters in relation to the spindle length. The chainring(s) matters in relation to what gears you plan on running in the back.
Thanks for your replay, the frame is 1998 Marin b17 and currently no crankset on it and i want to order a 1x 32t crankset for 10 speed cassette. If you have any info i could use please
@@jnlltd the good thing is most 1X cranks sets that come with a bottom bracket will fit 68 or 73mm bottom brackets and come with the appropriate spacers as needed. You can pick up a decent offbrand crankset for 75 bucks that includes chain ring, cranks, bottom bracket, etc. For $100- $125 You should be able to pick up a SRAM NX or GX crank set. I like the machining they do on their chain rings and I feel like they’re bottom brackets are of a higher-quality. All of this you can find on Amazon Amazon or eBay.
Hi Shawn, thanks for reaching out. Congrats on the San Andreas. Im a bit backed up with projects to take on anything else new but best wishes on the restomod.
Awesome build, awesome video!! I’m trying something similar air with my old Trek from junior high school (92 Trek Antelope) I’m just struggling to find components that will work. did that 10 speed cassette just for on your 26” rim? I was thinking a 1x10, I’m also gonna do drop bars and Sti levers. Any advice, tips or ideas are welcomed! Thank you and thanks again for the video awesome work.
Congrats, restomods are a ton of fun! The issue you are going to run into is your rear wheel free hub. It was only designed for a 7spd width. While it is possible to change it out for a longer 9spd (that means it will work with a 10spd cassette) it will mess up spacing of the wheel and "the dish" causing a lot more work on your part. If you really want to move ahead with the project bike I would suggest finding or building a newer 26" wheel with a 9spd Shimano free hub that can take the new 10spd cassettes. You can still find some decent used 26" rear wheels on eBay and a lot of rims and hubs to lace one up. Best wishes!
Love the video! What kind of derailleur did you use? Most 10 speed derailleurs I found only go up to 46/48 teeth max. I couldn't find one that allows 50T
Nice build on a beautiful frame! Some things I might have done differently, though: RockShox SID Air should be lighter, has a lock out and better response; add a dropper post; instead of the 1x10 drive train, go 2x10 which offers a higher range with finer granularity and also eases the chain line issue.
Great question, it came down to the budget and geometry. I got the fork for 50 bucks and it needed to be 80 mm. If I had a bigger budget, it would be nice to go with a bomber or a Judy/ Reba.
Adding a suspension fork to a bike designed for a rigid will throw the frame geometry off, usually by about 2". It's very noticeable in the bike's raised front at the end of the build. I agree in keeping a nice original rigid fork.
I’m having an issue on a 1x8 converted road bike that I went from a 117mm to a 107mm bb and the chain line is dead center between 4&5. When I back pedal on the largest cog, the chain jumps to the next cog. My chain line isn’t near as severe as the one in the video.
Put it in 8th gear and backpedal. You'll see the chain rubbing on 7th.....1x is dumb, you only do it if you need narrow wide chain rings because you drop chains every ride.
I'm building a 95' Marin Pine Mountain as a gravel bike...I'm leaving the 3x7 gears as well as the Cantis from Shimano, which I had already replaced around 2000. I have a big problem with the paintwork, it is very badly damaged due to hard use...I have to have the bike repainted...where can I get the original stickers from Marin? Greetings from Germany.
Doubt about VG brand, i've seen VG chain doesn't match with Shimano's DCE chainring profile (previous generation, MX000 series) *even though the packages tell you its match them by showing Shimano MX000 crankset use them* . And ironically, the owner use XT M8000 crankset (similar to what shown in the packages)
@@CoolBikeProjects I do but they are all on bikes here in Finland. So if anyone in the US has a 1995-1997 Marzocchi bomber Z1 or Z2 laying around send it to Rusty so the retro Marin will have a fair chance 😀
Great project! Can't wait to see the comparison. Every time I see an elastomer fork, I can't help but think of the Total Air Cartridges. Did you ever have any experience with those?
Thank you and no, not much experience with the cartridges. I just remember them being replaced quite a bit. I’ve always liked the Manitou Black Forks when those came out.
@@CoolBikeProjects On my first bike, I needed a fork with a 1" steer tube, so there weren't many upgrade options. I swapped out elastomers on my Rock Shox without much improvement. That's why I considered trying out the Total Air Cartridges but ended up finding a refurbished Marzocchi fork, which was one of the smoothest forks I ever owned.
Hey, your videos have been so helpful as I attempt to update my 1994 GT Tequesta. I recently upgraded a seven-speed free hub to accommodate my 11-speed cassette. My question is, have you ever had to cold set or stretch the rear triangle to support anything larger than the seven-speed? My tire is just rubbing the left side of the frame, and I’m just wondering how to fix it.
Great question, the only reason to cold set/ widen the rear triangle is for the spacing of the hub not the tire. If the tire is too big, you’ll have to drop down the size, It’s also possible that by putting on by a different free hub you will need to dish the wheel over if it’s not centered. If you’re worried that the frame is out of alignment or that the wheel is not dished correctly. I would highly suggest taking it to a shop to have them check. Thanks for checking out the channel and best wishes on your project!
I'd have told you not to shorten the stem with those forks. You need to be forward on this pedalling up hills as otherwise you will be doing wheelies, I'd have recommended a longer fork and slightly shorter stem.
The bike came with all the tools needed to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L and the included instructional video made assembly a breeze. I bought the 20" bike for my child and it looks very nice and rides well. The 6-speed shifter is a little tight on the ends for the little hand but operates well between gears 2-5.While the paint is of good color, it seems to be very thin. I peeled off the white barcode sticker and it took off a big piece of paint with it. Now I need to find some touch-up paint to seal off the steel from the environment before it rusts...
so sad to see the chromo fork go. Treat these orginal parts like they were meant to resemble a modern aero gravel bike. Long seatpost hands on the bar ends while on asphalt and suddenly your big 2.2 inch tires go long distance with a good pace.
Why would you ruin a perfectly good rigid bike with a suspension fork, also you don't need a headset press, just use a block of wood, and 10 speed cassette with huge range is overkill for a 26 inch wheeled bike.
Man, there is nothing better looking than a 90's mountain bike. She's a beauty.
What about your wife?
But what about 90's hybrid bikes?)
With how rare rigid threadless 26” forks are nowadays, I personally would not have converted it to a suspension fork. Neat build though and the parts seem to be well thought out. I’m glad microshift exists as a good budget alternative option as they have really allowed people to upgrade/restore bikes that might not have been desired otherwise.
Wow,,,,, I’m a roadie but this built is changing my mind ,,,,,measure twice ,,, cut once ….great video
Thanks for watching!
I had a brandnew Eldridge Grade back in '93 when I was 15. Would love to get my hands on one nowadays an turn it into a gravelbike.
Excellent video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Very nice. I enjoy doing this kind of bike building. Thanks for sharing.
I just finished a restomod of a 97 Rocky Mountain Equipe, but I did a few things differently. I used the original Raceface crank and got a narrow-wide chainring that fit it, and used a 27.5 fork to give it a more modern head tube angle. Winter showed up before I could try it out, though...
Awesome, I would love to see a picture of it.
Man that's a bad ass bike.. and I definitely appreciate how you thoroughly explain everything without over explaining... nice build
Thanks man! I appreciate it
Those little purple anodised part really pop against that grey! Lovely
Those double & triple butted Chromoly frames from Tange or Reynolds provide such a good platform to build on. Very nice.
It’s beautiful I wish I could do this too
Great editing. I know how much work this is.
Real nice looking bike. Would make a great all around ride or bike packer.
Love the look of that 1995 model! I have a Marin Team One. Neat to see the differences after nearly 30 years!
Nice combo of parts on an awesome Team Marin! I'm getting ready to do a similar build on a 97 Marin Indian Fire Trail.
Really cool looking bike, I hope it rides as good.
Have the gloss black / dark blue Giant Yukon from 1993 .
Nice work! You said Dope wheels! Yes!
Ha ha, lingo lango
The first bike I ever bought myself aged 18 was a 95 Marin Bear Valley. Loved the chunky look especially those seat stays. I crashed it at 43mph and snapped the top tube in half, some achievement on a steel frame hehe. Replace it with a 95 Marin Eldridge Grade, which was sadly stolen. Thankfully my third bike, a 97 SWorks M2 I still ride :) Third time lucky
So sweet, love a killer 90’s frame! BTW great hoodie!
I am building up the exact same frame right now! Great video!
Awesome!
Just like your videos on your build on your bikes. I truly enjoyed watching you do your building your bikes. Your great and awesome dude. Also, just keep on rocking and rolling.
Great build, Rusty. I love the color of that frame!
Thank you for the parts!
Great build .Great to see the dog on the bars bit good maxxis tanwalls 👍
Thanks Nick, my youngest likes to help me accessorize 😇
OMG. You literally built my dream bike. That is a beauty.
Thank you for watching!
Been hunting an older butted Marin frame for a while now. My dad converted Bear Valley 26er to 700c roadbike. Rides real nice.
That is awesome. Good luck on your project!
What an enjoyable watch this was. Subscribed 💆
Thanks Andreas!
Like your education on chain line. Very well explained.
Great build. Q. Does an 11 speed cog fit between the dropouts the same as a 10. WhT is the MM requirement for it .I'm trying to do the same to a 1999 Zaskar Le.Thanks.
It all depends of the freewheel of your hub. Having said that, most 11spd cassettes are on wider hubs 142 to 148mm.
Beautiful!
Thank you Fernando!
Cable Magic sounds like a good product. I wish it had a handy needle like Dri-Slide
Hi Really enjoyed this video. Subbed. One thing….was hoping to see the comparison ride you mentioned between this Marin and a modern version but couldn’t find the video?
Perfect length, Great info. More like this please!
Awesome clean build 😎
Thanks Steven!
Hey, it would be great to have a new update segment on explaining with which bike frame that is capable of having upgraded parts on it. As where for example if you have a 1989 bike frame is compatible with update of using 2024 components or would 1990 parts be likely the best parts for a 1989 . Same thing as well for 1990s. Otherwise I love watching you and hopefully that you will get a chance to do update version soon here.
Thanks for comment, I will have a new video out in a couple weeks with the next build, similar to this one. You brought up some great questions, and Ill look into a video discussing what can be updated and changed for older bikes.
I gathered most of the parts for Marin B-17 bike, could you help me find correct crankset size please? For 73mm bottom bracket
Tell me more about it. Are you running a triple chainring crankset or a converting to 1x set up? Most of the time the crankset only matters in relation to the spindle length. The chainring(s) matters in relation to what gears you plan on running in the back.
Thanks for your replay, the frame is 1998 Marin b17 and currently no crankset on it and i want to order a 1x 32t crankset for 10 speed cassette. If you have any info i could use please
@@jnlltd the good thing is most 1X cranks sets that come with a bottom bracket will fit 68 or 73mm bottom brackets and come with the appropriate spacers as needed. You can pick up a decent offbrand crankset for 75 bucks that includes chain ring, cranks, bottom bracket, etc. For $100- $125 You should be able to pick up a SRAM NX or GX crank set. I like the machining they do on their chain rings and I feel like they’re bottom brackets are of a higher-quality. All of this you can find on Amazon Amazon or eBay.
Thank you, i managed to find one 73mm.
Awsome bloody love a good retromod 👍🚴♂️
Thank you!
Very nice! I’m restomoding a ‘96 Mountain Cycle San Andreas. It’s going to be stunning. Maybe you’d like to do a video on it.
Hi Shawn, thanks for reaching out. Congrats on the San Andreas. Im a bit backed up with projects to take on anything else new but best wishes on the restomod.
My bars on my 97 Bontrager Privateer are 620mm. Can I upgrade to 720mm? I like the wider look, more comfortable?
Absolutely.
Awesome build, awesome video!! I’m trying something similar air with my old Trek from junior high school (92 Trek Antelope) I’m just struggling to find components that will work. did that 10 speed cassette just for on your 26” rim? I was thinking a 1x10, I’m also gonna do drop bars and Sti levers. Any advice, tips or ideas are welcomed! Thank you and thanks again for the video awesome work.
Congrats, restomods are a ton of fun! The issue you are going to run into is your rear wheel free hub. It was only designed for a 7spd width. While it is possible to change it out for a longer 9spd (that means it will work with a 10spd cassette) it will mess up spacing of the wheel and "the dish" causing a lot more work on your part. If you really want to move ahead with the project bike I would suggest finding or building a newer 26" wheel with a 9spd Shimano free hub that can take the new 10spd cassettes. You can still find some decent used 26" rear wheels on eBay and a lot of rims and hubs to lace one up. Best wishes!
Love the video! What kind of derailleur did you use? Most 10 speed derailleurs I found only go up to 46/48 teeth max. I couldn't find one that allows 50T
Microshift Adventx long
Awesome video! Where did you get the spacers for the bottom bracket? I just picked up a Marin Palisades Trail and doing some upgrades :) Thanks!
These were 24mm spacers. I found them on amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JSMPMYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
Nice build on a beautiful frame! Some things I might have done differently, though: RockShox SID Air should be lighter, has a lock out and better response; add a dropper post; instead of the 1x10 drive train, go 2x10 which offers a higher range with finer granularity and also eases the chain line issue.
Why did you not use a newer and more up to date fork like a Rock Shox Reba which is still available for 26”?
Great question, it came down to the budget and geometry. I got the fork for 50 bucks and it needed to be 80 mm. If I had a bigger budget, it would be nice to go with a bomber or a Judy/ Reba.
Adding a suspension fork to a bike designed for a rigid will throw the frame geometry off, usually by about 2". It's very noticeable in the bike's raised front at the end of the build. I agree in keeping a nice original rigid fork.
It depends on the geometry of the bike. For many MTB 1995 and older that is true. 97' and newer and you should be just fine.
I’m having an issue on a 1x8 converted road bike that I went from a 117mm to a 107mm bb and the chain line is dead center between 4&5. When I back pedal on the largest cog, the chain jumps to the next cog. My chain line isn’t near as severe as the one in the video.
Put it in 8th gear and backpedal. You'll see the chain rubbing on 7th.....1x is dumb, you only do it if you need narrow wide chain rings because you drop chains every ride.
this is cool... glances at the channel name... oh.
I hate seeing a 90s ridged getting a suspension fork. Hard to find a god ridged. But it’s not my build. Great job!
I hear ya, I saved the fork in case I ever decide to switch back. 😎
Why no disc brakes if going resto-mod along with an nice air fork ?
Resources and not wanting to modify the frame. But if you know someone with a Marzoochi z1 from that time Let me know 😎
What chain and cassette did you use? Great video!
Thanks! The cassette is a VG Sports 11-50 10 speed- same brand with the hollow pin chain - I've put a link in the description.
Specialized bars on a Marin is a big no-no for me ! But great project and work anyway 👍 !
Ha ha you are right but I used what I had :)
I'm building a 95' Marin Pine Mountain as a gravel bike...I'm leaving the 3x7 gears as well as the Cantis from Shimano, which I had already replaced around 2000. I have a big problem with the paintwork, it is very badly damaged due to hard use...I have to have the bike repainted...where can I get the original stickers from Marin? Greetings from Germany.
I would suggest looking online through Etsy.com - Velo Cal used to be the go to place, but they’ve recently gone out of business.
@@CoolBikeProjectsUpdate...etsy actually has the matching Marin stickers....Thanks for the tip.
Which freehub body did you use?
shimano Hg
Doubt about VG brand, i've seen VG chain doesn't match with Shimano's DCE chainring profile (previous generation, MX000 series) *even though the packages tell you its match them by showing Shimano MX000 crankset use them*
.
And ironically, the owner use XT M8000 crankset (similar to what shown in the packages)
Thanks for your insights on the chain. We put some miles on it in Vernal, so far so good. Doesn't feel super crisp but not bad either.
Would mostlikely ride much better with the steel fork even on mtb trails 😄 please find a mtb capable Marzocchi fork, the bike deserves it 😀
Ha ha, I worked with what I had but if you have an old bomber lying around let me know 😎
@@CoolBikeProjects I do but they are all on bikes here in Finland. So if anyone in the US has a 1995-1997 Marzocchi bomber Z1 or Z2 laying around send it to Rusty so the retro Marin will have a fair chance 😀
Awesome videos. That cassette color is called jet fuel, fyi
Haha that is great!
How much money did you invest in New and replacement parts?
@@makeitmakecentsmarketing I think I put in $440 for parts outside of the frame. Half of that was the wheels and tires.
Great project! Can't wait to see the comparison. Every time I see an elastomer fork, I can't help but think of the Total Air Cartridges. Did you ever have any experience with those?
Thank you and no, not much experience with the cartridges. I just remember them being replaced quite a bit. I’ve always liked the Manitou Black Forks when those came out.
@@CoolBikeProjects On my first bike, I needed a fork with a 1" steer tube, so there weren't many upgrade options. I swapped out elastomers on my Rock Shox without much improvement. That's why I considered trying out the Total Air Cartridges but ended up finding a refurbished Marzocchi fork, which was one of the smoothest forks I ever owned.
Hey, your videos have been so helpful as I attempt to update my 1994 GT Tequesta. I recently upgraded a seven-speed free hub to accommodate my 11-speed cassette. My question is, have you ever had to cold set or stretch the rear triangle to support anything larger than the seven-speed? My tire is just rubbing the left side of the frame, and I’m just wondering how to fix it.
Great question, the only reason to cold set/ widen the rear triangle is for the spacing of the hub not the tire. If the tire is too big, you’ll have to drop down the size, It’s also possible that by putting on by a different free hub you will need to dish the wheel over if it’s not centered. If you’re worried that the frame is out of alignment or that the wheel is not dished correctly. I would highly suggest taking it to a shop to have them check. Thanks for checking out the channel and best wishes on your project!
I'd have told you not to shorten the stem with those forks. You need to be forward on this pedalling up hills as otherwise you will be doing wheelies, I'd have recommended a longer fork and slightly shorter stem.
Thanks for the input
❤
The shaft sealing and spacer rings are installed incorrectly.🙄
The bike came with all the tools needed to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L and the included instructional video made assembly a breeze. I bought the 20" bike for my child and it looks very nice and rides well. The 6-speed shifter is a little tight on the ends for the little hand but operates well between gears 2-5.While the paint is of good color, it seems to be very thin. I peeled off the white barcode sticker and it took off a big piece of paint with it. Now I need to find some touch-up paint to seal off the steel from the environment before it rusts...
❤❤❤ please give away sir, my fork needed fork 26 😂 thx
so sad to see the chromo fork go. Treat these orginal parts like they were meant to resemble a modern aero gravel bike. Long seatpost hands on the bar ends while on asphalt and suddenly your big 2.2 inch tires go long distance with a good pace.
Keeping the fork, no worries 😉
620mm bars ‘normal’? I don’t think so. Hyperlites were 550 as the norm. 620 is revolutionary or early 2000s stuff….or late 98/99.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
It's a '96.
Why would you ruin a perfectly good rigid bike with a suspension fork, also you don't need a headset press, just use a block of wood, and 10 speed cassette with huge range is overkill for a 26 inch wheeled bike.
the original fork looks better
I'm sorry but modern gears just don't belong on old school bikes.