Hub motor eBike 1000w; just as good as BBSHD mid-drive?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- We just hit 1000 miles (1600km) on our 1000 watt front hub motor electric bike. Is it just as good as the Bafang BBSHD mid drive? Please like and subscribe!
eBike kit: www.ebikekit.com
Battery pack: www.lunacycle.com
Accessories shown:
Origin8 Transit Ergo Handlebar amzn.to/2P9zJNU
Ergon GP1 grips amzn.to/2odsBoe
KNOG Oi Bell Aluminium Bike Bell amzn.to/2MOKRCc
CRG arrow mirror amzn.to/2BKNBMo
CRG Bar End Mirror Adapter amzn.to/2MPlPTj
Outerdo stem extender amzn.to/2o9pWvA
Serfas MSC-226 Reactive Gel Saddle - Men's amzn.to/2NkILXI
Sunlite Rear Wire Folding Basket amzn.to/2PFpoKo
Kool Stop pads for Avid Elixir amzn.to/2MUbhlO
Sunlite Gold Tec front rack amzn.to/2PGigNR
Blackburn Local Deluxe rear rack amzn.to/2MUxMak
Sunlite Rack Top wire/mesh basket amzn.to/2P8aMlJ
Topeak Cargo Net amzn.to/2PFpLog
Sunlite trailer hitch only amzn.to/2MPSCI2
Sunlite trailer hitch assy amzn.to/2obgbNu
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour amzn.to/2P5RDB6
Odyssey Black Twisted PC 9/16" Pedals amzn.to/2ocEHh8
SKS Stingray Fenders 45mm amzn.to/2P2JQUk
Lumintrail center mount kickstand amzn.to/2wpz1nL
Towild headlight amzn.to/2wooVDN
Ascher rear bike light amzn.to/2BOhDyT
RUNACC Mini Bike Hand Pump amzn.to/2NkOi0e
In this video we'll take a look at the eBike kit (motor, battery pack, controller, display) specs, talk about why we chose this hybrid style belt drive donor bike, then go through some of the upgrades and accessories we added to the bike.
This is a performance geared front hub motor with a 500 watt nominal rating. We have it set to put out a maximum of 1000 watts with both pedal assist and thumb throttle.
Music by DJ Quads:
/ aka-dj-quads
I added links for the motor kit, battery pack, and accessories in the video description.
Where is the link for the motor and battery
why not rear hub...most of the weight are there
and it doesn't change handling.
@The kantaral No not really. I speak from experience that rear hub is better by far over front hub.
Tree L. Bolling True, however it's easy to install front motor...don't forget Tourane bars 🤓
thank you , i was blind
Very well done video in explaining all assets of your ebike. The pros and cons you had to deal with during the trial period and how you resolved some of the issues was really informative. I also appreciated all the spec's being shown on screen during narration of the product you where referring to. Very helpful. Keep up the good work and thank you for reducing your carbon footprint.
You have two wheel drive when used front hub motor. No chain problem. When you replace front wheel to motorless wheel and take battery off from bike, it is ordinary bike.
Truth. My latest Bafang Ultra 1500w mid drive build has a Nexus 3 IGH and heavy duty chain, haven't had any drivetrain issues with it so far and doubt anything will happen to this chain. The derailleur is the problem with mid drives. You can also convert a bbshd build back to an ordinary bike by removing the motor.
I started with a 350w front 280rmp(ish) @ 15amp on a 36v setup maxing at 540w, it was fun, easy to install and quick, then it died so I got an emergency 250w 200rmp same 15a 36v I liked but missed the 350w power and little extra speed however getting a fair price on a 350w front was not easy in today's market so I went for my first rear motor, the major thing I am noticing is the rear is a lot bumpier of a ride then a front hub! I can wholesomely recommend a front hub motor just not 250w
I have a 36v 500w front motor I got from ebikeling. The controller has a max rating of 22 amps (792w max). Pedalling like mad w/full throttle I have hit 27.2 MPH (with a larger chain ring I could get close to 30). I only put @500 miles/year on the bike, but I have had this kit for a year now and have had no problems with it. I always pedal, and use the motor when I need it, to accelerate or to maintain speed in a higher gear, or against headwinds. Even in AZ summer, the motor never gets hot using it sparingly. Ebikeling's prices are very reasonable too. If you're in the US check out their website.
@@bFlattheOriginal I will have a look, thanks for the suggestion, since going rear hub I have been plague with problems although the Chinese company is pulling out the stops to help so kudos to them... AZ summer sounds real nice, sadly I am in the UK with arctic winds forecast but plenty of sun so thankful for small mercies
It is a MUST TO HAVE SHOCKS FOR EBIKES. 2 Shocks of front and back or middle of bike. Too much stress on frame of speed and UNCOMFORTABLE on bumps, dips ect leading to rear headache. Your front forks will break.
Gonna say that don't look like a 1000w 😂😂😂 I built 500w 48v can go up to 60v max with the crap controller ...I need upgrade now lol
Front wheel drive seems dangerous to me
It's safer than rwd
@@kysrussiansandindians0 how? im about to buy one.
@@yunusemre.d because there is no risk doing a backflip with fwd
@StealthyMonk It depends on the power though. I understand that more power means greater stress on the components and more riskier ride, but to point out you will not have a backflip
@StealthyMonk okay so if the front wheel itself is meant to have this much load it's not enough to drive it safely? The forks still have a problem?
removing the date is a pretty cheap trick
Very nice bike. I built a very similar setup with a small front geared hub and 17a 36v controller. What fenders are those? I like them
has anyone tried Bulb grease or Dialectic grease on problematic battery connections ? I kept having disconnections on bump with bbshd regardless of how tight i put the batt strap and the grease fixed it ⚡
I know nothing about ebikes, but love the concept- where should I start? What do you recommend for a beginner, commuter around town. Thanks! Great video and content!
I recommend a 250w geared front hub motor with a 36 15ah BATTERY, best thing I bought EVER.
With a 250 watt motor.You live in a relatively flat country side.
@@tombrenner4418 no to be honest I got a 2000 watt ebike and most of the times, even on hills I use only 200 watt pedal assist, a 250 watt setup would probably save him over 5kg over my set up
@@ianmangham4570 if you're going to spend any money on an e-bike why get anything less than 500w? I'd rather spend a little more and get something that can handle hills better if the need be.
Get a Lectric XP. 899$ folding fay tire electric bike.
The "short circuit" in your case is actually a high resistance connection... Which does indeed generate heat, but only at that point. Yes, it can melt things.
Please remove the shades - I'd prefer seeing your eyes! DRT
It's a toss up. I have been running a 500W bafang geared hub on the rear with 48V 10ah power, bike is a Surly Troll, for around 3 years now. Have had zero issues though the battery is showing its age. The issue I see is the wear of the chain and sprockets, my friend went through a set every 1000 miles on his mid drive. You mentioned a rear geared hub. I built a bike for a customer based on a single speed cross bike, Currie mid drive and a NuVinchi N380 geared hub. Guy ended up crashing it hard..
This is stupid hub motors are more heavy and 1000watts is like stupid anyway I am gonna get a 750watt bafang motor on my bike since its a balance between speed and mileage and if your moaning about drag then your very weak to to pedal a mid drive since mid drives have more power to the ground
yeah, stupid fast. I am pretty weak (inherited chicken legs from dad) that's why I ride a 1500w Bafang Ultra mid drive.
whats it like to climb hills. The main reason i went with a mid drive. Is i have a very steep hill to climb. drivers that dont know the road can sometimes struggle to climb the hill.
Depends on the hill grade but I have some fairly steep hills (not San Fran style tho) on my route home and barely notice it unless I'm towing 100-200 lbs in my trailer (usually grocery shopping). I agree that mid-drives eat steep hills for breakfast though.
I got me a 1500 watt DD front hub. Using a dual shock carbon steel frame in the NEXT Power Climber which suits the front motor of less peeling. These DD motors awesome of using for commuting over off road biking. The price jus right. Using bike of no PAS or pedals on 52.volt 20ah battery. Powerful too of hauling cargo.
Am I missing something? Where's the link to motor and battery?? I don't believe you mentioned it's brand name in the video either. Great that you listed the accessories but everybody's interested in the motor and battery...
Downvoted this video. Still haven't linked to motor and battery. No response to multiple inquiries from various people all asking for same thing.
Sorry, I had already shared the links to a few comments and thought it was in the video description. The motor kit is from ebikekit.com and the battery pack is from Lunacycle.com. It's funny how people usually downvote for things that have nothing to do with the video content, but sorry for the delay on those links... I'll add them to the video description.
very informative video.
Thanx for sharing this. :)
The technology is really amazing, just to think doing away with cars altogether!.
36 mph fast enough dude I don't want brake your skull 💀 do you? Nice bike kit.
Thanks. I agree, my 52v Bafang Ultra build gets over 40 mph, but I usually prefer to cruise around 25-35. I've been riding motorcycles for almost 15 years, so I'm comfortable at higher speeds. The reason I like my eBikes to be capable of 40mph though is to maintain the flow of traffic on roads that have no shoulder or sidewalk. Some people drive too fast and careless here in TX, so the faster I'm going the less likely they are to try making a dangerous pass. I haven't fully road tested any of my helmets yet and hope I never have too - but will probably upgrade to MIPS soon.
The ghost petaling is a must so you don't get pull over😅 it says in the law book as long as there are petals on it it's still a "bicycle" so you can ride on the bike lane also have above 55T is damn near impossible to move it without the assist and is thief proof with a key ignition🙃
Hahaha very true!!! I ghost petal to so i don't draw unwanted attention🤣
Can i add a front electric wheel to my assist rear e bike?
I would probably just join the BBS HD gang.
No kidding.nothing short of 1000watt 52 volt 16.5 ah. I live in the mountains,great for climbing off road or o the trails.In city traffic it’s great.
comparing NM of a HUB motor to a mid, chain driven you must consider the gearing.
a 100 NM mid with a gearing of 25 to 100 tooth will divide the NM by 4 making it 25 to the wheel.
The watt rating is the best comparison since it will not change by much over the gearing, only a little loss.
A rear HUB motor should really be the best option
Don't think a hub motor has the low end torque of a mid drive in 1st gear to start in steep hills. But I could be wrong.
On the road a hub drive is however unquestionably inferior in most ways! You don't want rotational mass on the wheels. It affects your handling. It worsens your braking. It puts a lot of weight far out on the edge of the bike. Mid drive is like a normal bike - just more stable.
Anyway power is not a measure of a good motor. It's all about a smooth, predictable delivery of power.
@@Erafune i have a 1000 watt rear wheel hub motor on my bike.
And without any pedaling from me it goes up 30° incline hill without any issue, only if i stop in that hill i have to help a little to prevent overheating the motor or controller or just undervolting the battery from the extreme load (up to 1500 watt max in steep hills)
I can't really feel the weight of the weel when braking or turning BUT if i run out of power in the battery it feels like dragging a truck tire behind me.
someone concerned about catching big air and doing stunts, should avoid the hub motors. Once you flatten the wheel it's a shitty day. Plus, balance of weight.
I don't do any of that. I run a rear hub motor on the street and it's perfect for my needs.
Does fine going uphill as well. I always pedal with it anyway.
@@tullgutten There is a lot difference between climbing on a paved road & hilly steep off road. Mid drive is natural & the best way for off roads. .
That was a lot of interesting info many thanks. For me I'd much sooner go for rear hub motor as weight gives better tire grip. I'm pushed towards the easy fit cycle pedal crank shaft electric motors .
If that was true, then why doesn't every motorcycle manufacturer have weights inside their wheels to get good grip??? Or put some parts of the bike far back to get more weight on the rear???
Wait WHAT!? It's' actually super bad for the bike!!? For handling purposes, you actually want the weight in the MIDDLE!? Who could have known!? 8D
Rear hub is better than front hub any day, mid drive is better again but downside is maintenance, I went for 1000w rear hub gearless motor and 21700 20ah 48v pack on full sus mountain bike and its great considering the conversion cost less than £300.
@@FlyingFun. 300 quid with a 20ah battery. No way. The battery alone is that price
@@zantesh liitokala on aliexpess £125 iirc, £140 for the kit, 2 torque arms and bag for the battery made up the rest.
Nice vid, thanks. What kind of motor did you get though, and how does it perform on hills? I prefer DD hub drives but unfortunately live in a very hilly area, so like the idea of a geared hub drive, but not the thought of the nylon gears wearing out or it making a lot of noise...
This thing takes hills like a beast... I have a pretty steep one on the way home from grocery shopping with trailer, no sweat. I always pedal through though. This is the performance kit (no battery) from ebikekit.com
@@eBikeaholic where do you buy a battery that isn't from China that is also spaced for ebike (36v 13a area)
Wondering how you figure 10 x 3.6v = 48v? Thanks for the vid, however, informative & thorough.
Subscribe to other channels
lol yes as someone else noted this was a typo. It should have read 13s4p for a 48v pack. Thanks for clearing that up Nader. Also, please tell us which channels are sharing the battery pack configuration specs during their reviews?
That drag of direct drive helps on rear wheel drive if its on a mtn bike..sort the same effect as gearing down on a motorcycle..I also have my front brake on right side on my emtn bike..I rode motorcycles my whole life so I'm programed to grab the right lever ..I use rear to steer more than to stop..
Cool build. Have u given any thought to a full suspension build? More comfy.
Yeah I get that a lot. I'm not a fan of suspension on decent roads or gravel trails. Big tires, good saddle and maybe a thudbuster will do the trick. The added cost and weight don't add much value to this style bike, and I don't like the bouncy inefficient feeling when standing up for a sprint.
I've also never used high quality expensive suspension though. When I get into heavier duty moped style builds I'll probably need to add some suspension.
Hello I have a three wheel adult tricycle that I want to put a front hub motor on it, I’d like any input you can give me on most reasonable cost conversion kit you could recommend I want to get a 48v 1000w on a 24” hub for longer distance not so much speed I’m a retired old lady so I’m not into the speed I primarily for exercise and to be able to get some fresh air and vit D from the sun and quick trips to grocery store that I don’t have to drive my truck which is a gas hog ..... so I have been looking and doing my home work ...my main question is can I get a kit that don’t cost over a $1000 dollars
ebikekit.com sells some nice kits specific for trikes.
that torque arm will do nothing with it aligned like that.
Basically the torque arm would rotate 30 degrees before the support would stop it.
The support arm needs to at a right angle to the other piece at the bolt where they join.
Good to know, thanks for sharing. Hasn't given me any problems yet daily commuting for a few years, but I'll mind that when it fails. I'd adjust it now if at a higher power level but it's only running 1000w peak.
and may i add it should be install behind the fork because of the counter force of the tork
So where exactly do you compare the two drives? Hub vs BBSHD? Was not able to find one comparison other than when you talked about the weight-difference?
The title doesn't suggest that this is a definitive comparison, it just poses the question so you can decide for yourself. BBSHD has higher torque, gets higher top speed, and gives more of a push feel than the pull feel of the front hub. I also forgot to mention that the BBSHD doesn't have a pulley adapter for a belt drive setup.
Thank you for getting back to me. The reason I ask, was I am really torn between a 1000watt DD hub motor and a BBSHD. I will mostly be riding throttle only and 90% road 10% offroad/gravel-trails.
I'm building on a Hardtail 29" bike and so far I've only been able to try out a 1000watt DD hub motor (as a rear-hub conversion)
I know the hub motor doesn't have as snappy acceleration off the line, but when pedaling at the same time it can really take off. I see that you've tried both the BBSHD and this 1000watt hub conversion - which one would you say you like more?
@@nomansland120 I'd definitely prefer a mid-drive for off road. Just make sure the donor bike can get a good chain line with the BBSHD. My next build will have a Bafang ultra mid-drive.
Because it's not equivalent nor is it superior. Front hub motors CAN NOT CLIMB like a mid drive. Add the unsprung weight of the motor makes maneuverability difficult. Unsprung weight of rear hubs affect ride comfort as well.
@@PamelaCurry I wish I knew about comfort before I kitted out my new rear hub motor only just finished the build on a hardtail yesterday and noticed it on the second ride, my front hub conversion was on suspension but was 250w and not as punchy as my first front 350w ridged bike.
Solid solid video. Watching from the UK.
Thumbs up.
thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Dual steel Torque Arms failed and I was hospitalized. I had chopper steel forks front. When I was at a speed of 34mph the torque arms I had bent and the forks bent. I had PAS MAX which when kicks in... kicks in at full throttle every time so at a high speed of 34MPH the front wheel becoming the lightest had no weight to help counter the torque of the motor. If i had the same motor on the rear, the weight of my body on the dropout and the axle would be enough to keep the motor from breaking free.
I had a front hub 1000w hub with 48v battery 800watt BLDC BTW
Never had problems with rear hub motors.
Front wheel could be a problem If your dropout and torque arms fail. Mine were all steel and torqued on with threadlock. Still failed.
front hubs are cheaper but are not worth your safety.
How can the eye lets not be compatible with the front hub motor axle? Its criminal for the company to not make their axle to fit standard eye lits. Filing down your eyelits will weaken the eyelit area. This is dangerous!
Would I have any issues mounting a front hub on a lightweight aluminum fork? Don't want anything too powerful, maybe a max of 500w.
I suppose it depends on how thick and strong it is. If it's a quality heavy rigid fork you'd probably be fine at 500w and may want to use two torque arms just in case.
Id raccomend having a front suspension, it will take a lot of the beating and not stress the fork itself
Great video ! In your opinion, what size motor is adequate for 16% hill climb? Would a 500W front hub geared motor do?
@Shawn Steinberger Thank you !
@Shawn Steinberger Thanks !
I would worry about the front end losing grip on loose or wet surfaces due to the wheel spinning…..If that happens you lose steering. If the back wheels spins with a rear hub drive, the bike will step out of line, but at least you still have some control over the front wheel. Since I have not tried a front hub myself, maybe it is a non event? But I’d like to see some practical info on it huh!
Hi there, would you say it's cheaper to make your own electric bike, rather than buying an already assembled one? Lots of hills where I live, I need something with electric power just to make life a bit easier..
That "torque arm" looks like it's placebo at best. I don't see how that would take any torque off the front fork.
Unless is 72v no way :)
Oh yea you just said it half tourqe. Imagine yourself weighing 320 lbs.
Please someone tell me the name of that DJ Quads song at the end of this video.
I’m building a 1000 watt rear hub motor 26 inch ebike just to cruise around at 15 to 20 mph. I’m not in it for the speed.
Why would you use a front hub motor? The rear hub motor feels way more natural and your weight is on the back wheel so obviously your traction improves as well as the battery on the back rack, adding the 20 lbs or so my set up does, helps the traction even more. The front will spin out as you noted, so again, use a rear hub NOT front. Also, those battery housings are trash. Use an XT90 connector and delete that bullshit connection and you will never have an issue. I cruise at 35 mph easy with a 1200 watt kit and up almost any hill no problem without having to pedal. My bike: Trek 820 Single Track ( STEEL SO NO NEED FOR TORQUE ARMS )with a 1200 watt rear hub ( 1000 watt V Mart kit with 1200 watt ebikling controller and SW 900 LCD display) with a 48V 30 AH battery in a rack bag with all the tools and spare tubes ect I could need, Tires are lined with Tuffy Tire liners and I use Joe's No FLAT in them as well just in case, TURN SIGNALS WITH STOP/TAIL LIGHT, Alarm with Key fob ( works very well ). Built for 750$$$ INCLUDING THE BIKE FROM PAWN SHOP! Real full electric, no pedaling range of 50 MILES and 100 if I pedal and enjoy the day. Most of these bikes for sale are only a fourth of my range and no where near the power and regulated speed for over 2000$$ WTF. NO THANKS.
I agree with most of your points. I still haven't pinned down my ideal motor type but am experimenting with the Bafang Ultra (52v 1500w) at the moment. Might do a rear QS hub next. I'd like to also experiment with awd. The eBike drive debate shall go on, sounds like you got a sweet setup though.
Can this ebike kit be install on a recumbent trike?
Sure can. The company that sells this kit actually offers one that's specific for trikes. I would imagine it just needs longer cables. ebikekit.com
Whats a good front tire kit.. would like 3-5000watt but seems like to much for the front so a good 1k would be great.. i will mount it on my motorized bicycle. I have a phatmoto rover 2020 its a felt faker type frame (amazing cruiser frame) triple tree forks hookworm tires TRP hy/rd 180mm rotor in the front 255mm in the rear 80cc motor with a 50t sprocket. With Governor still on the motor it tops around 28mph want to add a e-wheel to help that top speed some and for hills i have a LOT of big hill at best im doing 7mph up hills and have to pedal a little..
Grin Technologies has a lot of hub motor kit options. I haven't bought one from them yet, but they definitely know what they're doing.
I’m sorry I went through the entire description and did not find the link for this Front motor nor it’s brand. Maybe you can make it a little bit more clear for everyone Who may be interested
Having a FWD (Fail Wheel Drive) puts a heavy stress on the Front Fork.. Maybe it's ok for streets, but not for steeps or mountains.
Agree, I wouldn't front hub a trail bike. This guy's a gravel grinding commuter. I also forgot to mention how important the torque arm is at high power.
I'd spend a few more bucks and get a a cheap suspension fork. Using an aluminum fork with a 1000w motor is just asking for trouble
you wouldnt take this bike on trails even light trails.
I have a 500 watt on my cyclo cross bike. It works very well as it 2 wheel drive now.
Only a dumb-ass Trump supporter would make reference of a trail bike setup to a road-commute bike review. Where do these morons come from?
BBSHD can swap out its integrated contoller to go from 1500w up to 3000w. Can this hub do anything similar without burning up? Doubt it.........
Truth. Did you swap out the nylon reduction gear though... I heard they get chewed up quick at +1500w. I'm currently running the Bafang Ultra which comes standard with the steel gear. Would like to upgrade the controller at some point though.
where did you buy that, and how much you spend?
What's the total cost of a set up like that?
Doesn't a 10s battery give a max of 42 volts , 37 volts nominal,
After commuting on a BBSHD for over a year now, I'd probably choose it over a 1000w front hub motor. Having said that, a 2wd bike using 1000w hub motors would blow the socks off of the HD! My latest creation is a 1500w rear and a 1000w front DD motor bike. With a 52V battery it gets to 40mph, laughs at hills, and has about 2x the torque of the HD for about 1/2 the price of a BBSHD. I'm using the same year old battery on the new bike as the HD bike so I'm comparing apples to apples.
Sounds very cool and cheap.
Chris Duke Vangilder
Nice, I want to experiment with 2wd eventually. I don't see how two motors would be that much cheaper then the BBSHD though.
I know this was 3 years ago, but now they have motorcycles with peddles on them. 3000W "ebikes" for about $2500. Crazy. I'll stick with my slow 1000W 28mph ebike. Plenty enough for a casual like myself.
I've been riding a 29" road bike with a 1200watt 50something volt front hub. Waay better than back mounted. You can't pop wheelies but that's the good thing.
Thanks for sharing that. I've been looking for front vs rear hubs (currently on rear, but bought a front, and now doubting it was the right choice!)
Yeah I think it mostly comes down to feel and personal preference. I'm going to experiment with all wheel drive soon, just not sure if it will add any efficiency.
the cradle terminals are melted on both of mine too, thats funny
Don't think there's any point with 1000W on a ROAD bike. Unlocked limiters on a 250W will give you all the speed you can handle.
Maybe 500W for a steep hill. 1000W on a RWD terrain bike on the other hand - that's a light motocross!
Also - I have to question how likely it is that the fork is going to break. Most of the power is being transfered through the fork-to-stem area, which you constantly turn to steer (and grind down). Front motor is just sooo sketchy.
Yeah for sure, power level needs depend on usage. Recreational use 250w is fine for some people but 500w in a hub motor is meh. I food shop and tow heavy cargo by eBike fairly often. I also wouldn't pay premium price for a limited motor then spend another $200+ just to remove the limit. The major benefit of a kit like this is having the power available when you need it, use it as you please. The fork on this bike feels fine for road use, it's steel, but I probably wouldn't want to go over 1000w with it.
Do you know what voltage the controller can have into it as a maximum? I have several already build batteries running 5s each, so I would like to use 15s total but just wondering if I would need to limit the total charge voltage during charging to acheive a max voltage of 54v or does it mention anywhere the inspec spec? would 60v be ok? which is the voltage that I would like to use - otherwise I will need to split my ready build packs up that I would like to use
I couldn't tell you for sure - you'd be better off contacting the seller of the kit directly. I can say that I emailed them last year asking if this kit is compatible with a 52v pack and they said yes. I haven't tried it yet though.
Graphene or carbon nanotube wire windings can make super efficient light motors. Having front motor worth it?
Interesting... best part about EV's is how much opportunity there is to improve these things. I like the front hub motor overall... still have this bike as backup and to tool around with my son on his trailercycle, but I do prefer the feel of my Bafang Ultra mid drive.
U just talked forever man...why not take it out...
What is the name of that Blu battery charger of yours
Very complete look at your build. Well done.
I have a front 48v 1000w hub on a bike, similar setup. Im at 1600 miles with no issues. It is great for long straights, the motor really excels at that. It sucks for bumpy road, it handles poorly on turns, and is dangerous when the ground is wet. But for long straight commutes on relatively smooth ground its excellent. I am in the process of building a bbshd bike right now to replace it.
Agreed. I'm currently testing a prototype diy Bafang Ultra mid drive, but the BBSHD is great too.
"Dangerous in the wet" .
As if life wasn't hard enough.
@@isickofit If it rarely rains where you live that isnt really a problem, but if you live in Seattle stay away from front hub motors.
I have now done 8000km with a 500W front hub and have never had handling issues in the wet due to wheelspin. I think front hubs are maligned somewhat; they are super simple, put no stress on the chain and work well on everything but dirt roads or really steep hills. All the rider weight is on the back wheel, so a front hub motor helps to balance that out a bit.
@@davidlegard9814 I had major issues in the wet with a 1000w front hub @ 48v. It would just slide to the side when I used the throttle on wet ground and around turns power couldnt be used or I would go down. Very dangerous. Maybe the lower power level you used was ok for wet roads. I agree that the bike was more balanced with a front hub than a rear.
Would you please tell me where to order one of these ebikes
I'm also not a fan of derailleur gear systems but with a powerful motor you do not need the same wide gear spread as you do with lower powered motors. For that reason in my opinion the extra cost of a Rohloff is not justified. Compare the BEST GEAR SPREAD you get with a Rohloff out of the recommended sprocket ratio to the Nexus 5 speed for E Bikes. Then compare the cost. On the Rohly the very best spread you can get is 12 - 113 gear inches. With the Nexus E Hub using the same chainring/sprocket ratios you can get 30 - 148 gear inches. Much more useable high end gearing. - mid-islandadventures.weebly.com/ig-hubs.html
Agreed. My latest build runs a Bafang Ultra 1500w with Nexus 3, pretty perfect combo. I may want to try the Nexus 5 on the next one but really happy with the 3 so far. It's all about dialing in the right middle ratio for the need.
At 4:43 when you're talking about the battery I assume you made a mistake when typing out the information as a 10s4p battery would be 36volts and not 48, I assume you meant 13s4p.
yup that was a mistake, thanks for catching that.
Hello. What brand of engine is this?
You don’t address why you chose front drive (over rear hub drive.)
I wanted to try belt drive with a 3 speed internal geared hub.
lose the annoying music in the background
does anyone know of a geared hub motor that is capable of 3000watts?
I'd look into QS Motors. I'm not sure if this one is geared but they have a bunch of options... full kit | amzn.to/3cfeSEj - motor only | amzn.to/2K28Tqg
Good video, I subbed. Do you know anyone who builds custom battery packs ?
Thanks for watching! I haven't used a custom pack yet, but I've spoke with eBike Marketplace (in Las Vegas) a few times - might give them a try for my next build.
Where did you get the nice n high 75 Torque Rating for that 500W / 750 / 1000 motor? Didn't see it on the ebikekit site. Only saw 45 Torque
they list the performance front hub kit as "Max Torque: 84N-m @48v". Maybe you're looking at a different kit? www.ebikekit.com/collections/bike-systems-lithium/products/e-bikekit-performance-front-lithium-48v
Love your videos, I too an addicted to the ebike build, built 12 to date. rear wheel, front wheel no mid drive the systems are to clunky and slow for me. I love my Huffy 48 volt 1000 watt direct drive rear wheel built. it's like a magic carpet ride. I will add to your info for folks that the new geared hub motors are great systems CSC and Violamart have nice systems. one of my favorite builds are beach cruisers using the 36 volt 500 watt systems front geared hub motors. put a basket or cooler bag on the handlebars and you can carry everything in it. the 36 volt battery is far lighter but gives great performance for it's volts. I can get a 36 volt battery good for a 500 watt motor ( generally 36 v 16 ah 500 watt ) that only weighs "4.5 lb"!!! the whole system only adds 14 lbs to the donor bike but is powerful, barely legal street speeds and power for hill plus great range with these new geared hub systems.
Nice. Have you tried the Bafang Ultra mid drive?
@@eBikeaholic not the biggest fan of mid drive systems, my builds are for generally older folks and transportation for others. most mid drive systems cost to much for most folks a deal with and here the terrain is not to bad when it comes to hills.
I like the hub drive motors especially direct drive for their speed and dependability plus they are quiet. Geared hubs are great for my older customers with the low speed performance and hill climbing.
Plus most folks like that is is easier to change on a front wheel from one bike to another than all the tools and time it takes to changes over the mid drive systems. It is funny when folks first see one of my bikes they can't figure out where the motor is they tend to look for a stand alone motor like a motorcycle or scooter, mid drive.
Most think the motor is some kind of drum brake. And I once raced a $4500 mid drive mountain bike with my $400 Huffy and eat his lunch left him so far behind he some how thought i had cheated. I told him out the gate if we were climbing steep hills he would beat me but never on a flat.
@@dalvenable331 You are who I have been looking for. Alas, when I clicked on your name to get to your channel, "no content." What a dirty trick!!! :-) I am 68 and will be moving to a city with lots of bike paths. I have not biked in 52 years. So I need an ebike. I was once an auto mechanic so I have confidence. But I sure lake information. I love the idea of getting a $400 huffy bike and modifying it like you do. Any more details you have about the Huffy model and other info (like YT channels you use) would be so helpful. Many thanks in advance.
@@ohhiguy Hope you got a bike on hand, Bicycles have gone the way of toilet paper these days I even hear new shipments not until August. That aside look up the ViolaMart 48 volt 26 inch 1000 watt conversion kit, find you a good 48 volt 15 ah or better 1000 watt li-ion battery. you can find frame mount battery but they are costly, I find the PVC brick ebike batteries for far less and with a little imagination find a safe out of the way place to hang it on your bike.(WHEN LOOKING FOR A BATTERY NOTE THE MEASUREMENTS AND WEIGHT AS WELL AS VOLTS ,AMPS AND WATTS) Add a rear rack or find a canvas tool bag and bungee it to you frame.
when it comes to making Ebikes Huffys with their strong steel frames are the best platforms for me and if you can get you hands on a Huffy 27.5 parkside SE 7 speed, yes the kit I recommended is for a 26 inch but you just do a little rat filing on the brake pad mounts and it works wonderful. I did also cannibalized a 26 inch front rim from a front wheel drive build to balance the bike out put Chao yang Gladiators on it. this is a rigid frame but rides smooth as long as I watch for pot holes.
The other choice has front shocks for a smoother ride, The Huffy Alpine works real well with this kit, Both these bikes have big open frames, good for hanging battery bags and motor controllers.
The ViolaMart 48 volt 1000 watt conversion kit is a very powerful unit, it freaks some folks out how much power it has on the throttle and the 5 PAS levels, the motor controller has a speed limiter wire (blue) that when it is not connected the speed limiter is off and your bike will run at speeds around 25 to 35 MPH if you connect the the blue wires together your ground speed will be restricted to 15.5 MPH. Now I say this because instead of building an Ebike for someone then telling them about the wire and risk them cutting the wire I add a inline on and off switch to it so you can easily switch between depending on riding needs.
Really the hardest thing I ever experience when doing an Ebike conversions is getting the handle grips off the bike to add handbrakes and throttle in the kit. I just buy new grips before the build and cut the old ones off to save time and aggravation.
The peddle assist system is really easy to install if you think outside of the box. the system has a magnetic disk and a proct switch sensor. you install the magnetic disk to your bikes crank, it does not matter which side as long as the rotation arrows are pointing the right way, same goes for the proct switch. hardest part is getting the disk on the crank. the disk is plastic and can be drilled, cut and carved to fit any size and style crank. some times instead of trying to take some cranks apart I merely take the disk and using a drill spade bit widing the center hole as close to the magnets without hitting them, then quarter the disk, ( PAINT ONE SIDE OF THE DISK BEFORE CUTTING TO PROPERLY MATCH BACK UP THE ROTATION DIRECTION)
after you quarter the disk glue the disk part to the back side of you front sprocket the take proct switch off the mount and zip tie it to the bottom bracket. I can go on all day but better you just give me a shout out here if you got any other questions. Dal Venable
@@dalvenable331 Much love and appreciation for your kind, fast, and long response. It is just what I needed to get me pointed in the correct direction. I wander if you would give me a very short response to cost. I am guessing $1500 to $2000 for the entire build. Of course, depending on many choices. Anyway, as an old mechanic, I want to be able to repair and modify my bike. I hate feeling stuck. Kind regards, Guy.
Great detail and quality, keep up good work
thanks
Thanks for the video! Did you do a video on the original build of the front hub motor? Looking for link for this motor. Thank You!
No I was too excited to finish, didn't film much of the build. I bought the motor/wheel already assembled from ebikekit.com
I’d suggest two torque arms with that much power. Maybe two of the Grin variety?
Thanks for the suggestion. It's still holding up strong with only one arm. If it were over 1500w I'd probably consider adding another one.
eBikeaholic, TY for explaining why an LCD display only displays speed/mileage when the motor is running! I took mine off and went back to the LED display and my Velo computer, since I only use the motor about half the time. Funny, nobody ever tells you that when they want to sell you one :)
Of course not... heh I'm still waiting to see if someone figures out how to "roll back" the odometer like the good old days.
With all due respect a 10s battery is only 42 volt
Typo, 13s 4p
some rambling here, if you want a motor only, but not regenerative resistance when rolling, then use a coil-wire only motor, no magnets, it will regenerate only if provided electricity to the coil, radial magnetic field, coils
good to know, thanks for sharing
We have a Co motion tandem bike we ride. It has 700 x 32 tires. We like to ride without support but sometimes we ride hills and wish we had a little help. Could something like this be easy to switch wheels back and forth from normal to electric assist. Love to have your recommendations for what to purchase.
I want to upgrade from a geared 250 W 24V front hub motor. I need to reduce my commute time.
Yeah 250w 24v doesn't do much, they shouldn't even sell anything less than 500w 48v. Just because a kit is capable of 1000w doesn't mean it has to be used that way. PAS level 1 on my current setup is only 200w output.
@@eBikeaholic I like the smart charger you showed. Where did you get it? Thank you.
@@patientestant that's the advanced smart charger from Luna Cycle. It's important to be able to charge to 80% capacity. The only thing I wish it could do is scale between different voltages 48v and 52v. My next build will likely be 52v which means I'll also need a new charger.
Hi. Who is building your custom ebike with Bafang Ultra and belt drive? I would be interested in one as well.
Haven't found an open-minded frame builder yet, but we're currently in the design phase. Our goal is to create a simple and easily replicated industrial style frame (similar to the R&M Nevo) so that any welder can easily build one, then share the jig plans and maybe offer diy kits. I'm flabbergasted at how eBike manufacturers are still wasting time and resources on all these under-powered, speed limited 500w mid drives instead of offering a Bafang Ultra model and/or customized battery pack options. We'll be posting videos through the whole process.
@@eBikeaholic awesome! Thanks for your reply. I own a tig welding machine and I can tig aluminum. I've never thought about designing and building a custom ebike. I just might do it myself. I like the CRG mirror that you have. I'll most likely order one today. Thanks again
@@wdj935 sweet, I need to learn welding. Let us know how it goes if you do... sounds like having a solid jig is the key. Can't say enough good things about the CRG mirrors, there are also some cheaper knock off ones on amzn I want to try... probably just as good for eBikes if designed to take the vibration of a moto.
I ordered two CRG mirrors (1 per bike). Thanks for your suggestion.
@@wdj935 sweet man, you won't regret it - they're awesome. Also don't forget the bar-end adapters if you need em.
Those battery chargers are expensive
Those things on the fork tips you had to file down? They're not eyelets. Eyelets are next door; you attached the fender struts to them. Those features you filed off are "front wheel retention devices" in the industry, "lawyer lips" in the vernacular.
Good to know, thanks for clarifying.
Nice vid. I think you grinded up the size of the dropouts. The new bracket on the fork is some reinforcement for (newly added) torque stress, not an old wheel retention clip. I could be wrong.
If u dont have shocks in the front its no good to have a motor in the front
Why is that?
I love everything about it
Did you use 2 spacers or washers on inside right forks to clear the disc housing case?
I meant on the inside Left side of forks.
Your trailer ideas are awesome. I am going to build a single wheeled heavy duty powered trailer.
Thanks, keep us posted with your build! The hardest part for the single wheelers is the hitch connectors. They need to swivel x and y axis but also need to be solid enough to hold the load balanced. I think the important thing is to keep the trailer to hitch pivot perpendicular to the ground (otherwise when you turn, the whole trailer tilts down).
It seems there is more than one type of c washer, so which one I need?
It came with the motor kit. What types of c washers are you considering?
I'm looking into doing this because ebikes are out of my price range and I ride a regular 6 speed bicycle 20-22 miles a day for work.
Just make sure you spend enough on a good quality battery pack. Ask what cells they use. For me Bafang DIYs are mostly about customization and programming options, they don't always come out much cheaper.
There are some good affordable eBike brands out there - Rad power bikes are priced similar to most DIYs and offer a reasonable power level.
@@eBikeaholic yeah i just recently found quite a few affordable ones on Amazon eBay and Walmart ( Walmart was surprising)
You didn't give information on performance with no pedalling!
Yeah sorry I don't ride the throttle very often... I did publish a speed test comparing pas vs throttle though. ruclips.net/video/VBhO-tNBjQc/видео.html
Can anyone help me please? I have a haibike derestricted (dongle) with a yamaha motor, it has the original 400watt 11ah battery. If I replace the battery with a 600 watt 17ah batter will it increase my top speed and torque in general? Thanks
A battery pack with more ah won't affect the speed or torque, just range. Speed and torque is affected by the amount of amps the controller is pushing to the motor. Make sure your motor has a peak watt rating to handle higher amps, and that the battery pack bms can also handle the higher continuous amp output.
thanks for the reply. guess its time to sell my commercial bike and build something with power ;p
How many volts of your motor，the voltage of the battery must be the same as the motor.
How much money does it cost
Fornt have motatar bike batter
Just make it to dual motor.
I have a 28" tire when i look up the 28" front wheel hubs they either dont say what fork size is needed or its between 100mm and 105mm mine is more what can i do?
You can buy spacers
no link to motor or battery/Mont
Hub is better for most people because they are less problems. Best to just get a 750W ebike for now for about $1500 and save your money. In about 4 years from now the ebike landscape will improve so much that all these ebikes will be 2nd rate. Belt drive and internal hubs are the way to go. The 1000W mid drives is too much stress of these types of bikes.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. I agree that the industry is growing fast, so it's important to look for the latest battery/motor tech and versatile frames that allow for proper upgrades. Don't fall for all the new IoT gimmicks and fancy looking frame designs. Although it's a tempting price, I usually can't recommend most eBikes under $1,500. At that price point the manufacturer is using the cheapest battery cells, cheap motor, cheap components and cutting corners wherever possible. The only bicycle component that can't handle a 1000w mid drive is the cassette / derailleur (+ the thin chain required to match them). Derailleurs are outdated and don't belong on transportation eBikes.
@@eBikeaholic - Pretty much agree with everything you wrote
I appreciate the video, but it seems to me the BBSHD is easier to install, doesn't need a controller mounted and has better weight distribution. I guess if you prefer a hub motor, it would be comparable.
To be fair both bbshd and hub motors got so many pros and cons, I got a 2000 watt hub and didn't encounter ANY con yet but I will when I get a puncture as I won't be able to fix it on the way so will have to walk it home. On bbshd tho if you snap the chain or bend your deraileur or anything else related to the drivetrain you will have to walk it too...I ride a lot on offroads and problem with bbshd is that as the chain is always moving stuff like a stick or somethingcould get stuck in there and do a lot of damage, hub motor is only the wheel that is spinning. Bbshd your gears have to be working PERFECTLY and ALWAYS. On my hub I leave my chain on the smallest cog at the back and literally haven't touched the shifter in months, will need it if I ever run out of battery tho. I haven't really ridden a bbshd yet and don't know how how steep of hills it can climb so can't comment on that. Oh and bbshd controller is over 200 dollars if you blow it and changing it isn't easy either. My hub motors controller rated at 2000 watt is 70 dollars and takes a couple of minutes to change. Bbshd got chain allignment problems and stuff as well sometimes sooo I don't know... but my next build will be bbshd for sure, even tho it works out to be more expensive especially including the upgraded chainring and the gear sensor. Hub motors are in the complex much more reliable but I am intrigued by the hill climbing and not to worry about a puncture facts so it will be my next build
@@gursisingh1940 I had a rear hub motor bike. I liked it fine, it was just a 250 watt, so it didn't have much power. I sold it and converted another bike with bbs02. I bought a lekkie chain ring and a beefier chain because I heard about them breaking if you are working it hard. I haven't had much time on it, as yet. I just saw a video about the Bafang M620 frame made to install that motor and probably would have considered going that route, if I wanted something more hardcore. A little spendy for my needs.
@@gursisingh1940 with bbshd, if you snap a chain, all you need is a chain break tool to remove the broken link. Also, you have the advantage of gears, which hub motors cannot do. The hub motor is far simpler and less expensive though. There are pros and cons for each.
I can't speak on any other kits, but my 2000 watt 52volt kit from Amazon for 260 and 13 a.h. 52volt battery for 300$ cost me a total of 600$ it could go 38 mph and 25 miles range all throttle it was pretty much perfect for my 8 mile commute. I did it in 14 mins and 16 minutes in a car lol plus it's fun before work and after to unwind!
Good job