Grafting Fruit Trees | Modified Cleft Graft | Best option for different diameter scion and rootstock
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Unless the scion and rootstock are of approximately of the same diameter, less experienced grafters don’t have a high percentage of success, with the cleft graft. Most of the times, when trying to adjust perfectly both cambiums layers, there is a tendency to center the scion and, as a result, there is not a single point of contact between them and the graft fails. A higher percentage of success can be achieved by making sure the cambium layers cross at some point, by inserting the scion at an angle. Nevertheless, when using much different diameter scions and rootstocks, the problem is even greater. It’s more difficult to achieve a good position for the scion and despite using one or two scions (double cleft graft), there is usually a gap in the final graft, which heals poorly and is a source of problems in the future. The solution is using a modified cleft graft. By making the cleft away from the center, the adjustment between scions and rootstocks of different diameters is much better, the graft has a greater percentage of success and heals perfectly, with no gaps. Furthermore, the problem of adjusting cambium layers disappears and even with scions centered in the middle of the slot, the cambiums can start connecting at the base and end up making a solid union.
Try this modified technique in spring or fall, and you won’t regret it.
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The Opening - Dan Lebowitz
This is like personal one-on-one instruction from a master. Bravo and thank you.
With fig grafting season getting near here on the Texas Gulf coast, 9a, I'm again watching your grafting videos. I did 5 grafts last year, 4 failed but 1 was an amazing success. It was a figo preto which produced 2 limbs and about 30 very nice figs on a brown turkey tree. Thank you so much. Your videos are a gift.
I am really glad it worked out for you. Its quite rewarding to be able to graft rare or hard to root varieties to robust rootstocks and see how they produce figs much quicker than on its own roots. Keep at it. Practice makes perfect. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Ok. So now I've tried the modified graft and I find it so much easier than the standard V or cleft graft.
It is awesome! Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. We tried about 40 grafts using your technique and it looks like about 80-90% worked. Not bad for the first time!
I am glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment.
I have been grafting a lot of years but the demo will Improve my takes on small scions a lot ... thanks.
Just did 500 grafts on M7 and M26 rootstock. Planting an orchard in Julian CA. Used standard cleft throughout, but am now excited to try modified cleft on some of the rejects/replacements because my scion wood is getting scarce and small in diameter. Thanks for the fantastic demonstration.
Thanks for the comment, Ben. I started using this technique out of necessity, because of small scions of new varieties a few friends have sent me and now its one of my favorites for several types of fruits. I just did several of these grafts on kiwi plants to change varieties and they all took. Good luck with your grafts.
U have did appreciable job. One of the best videos for grafting I have gone through
Fantastic, when you were doing I could feel I am wrapping tape around. Beautiful coverage with detail explanation with subtitles. Please bring more such videos. God bless you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment.
Wonderful, very clear explanation! Thanks! I have saved it. I am putting in a new 10 acre cherry orchard, by myself. (I am a 70 year old woman, btw: no, not easy.)
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your new cherry orchard (lots of work there).
Thank you for showing Modified Cleft Graft method! It really works on persimmon (Diospyros kaki) in spring. I confirm it.
Going out on a grafted limb and guessing the 4 down votes were a mistake, excellent as always Jaime thank you!
I just realized that grafting was probably invented by someone who broke a branch, tried to fix it, and succeeded.
Thank you so so so much for this clear knowledge with clear close picture video. ❤️❤️😍🥰❤️❤️
Very informative.. I always watch how to do a grafting, but this time I understand better.. thanks for the instructions.
Thanks for the modified cleft graft. I'll be using it often around my place! Happy grafting!
Muchísimas gracias por compartir sus destrezas y conocimientos con nosotros. It's great that you use English subtitles, so people can pause to read and understand, or translate if necessary. As a result, your videos reach people all around the globe (the multicultural/multilingual comments are evidence of that). By the way, your written English is superb, though I'm guessing your native language is Portuguese.
Thanks for the comment and for confirming that my approach works. It's precisely what i intended when using subtitles. A few people ask me to speak in the videos but, then, i would have to choose a language, and i believe i would loose viewers, independently of the choice i made.
You are right, my native language is Portuguese but, over the years, participating in English forums as helped to make my writing a bit more fluid, and i believe it's enough for people to understand what i mean, at this level.
Just found your channel and am really enjoying it! I have recently gotten into gardening and am trying to grow my persimmon tree. The seed germinated a few days ago, but did not realize that you could do air layering to create a new plant from the mother plant! I will have to give that a try :)
You are just so good at what you're doing. I'm amazed. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills. :)
That was amazing I learned something new today thank you for sharing 🥰💝😍
Buenoas días Jaime, un vídeo genial, como siempre, saludos desde Barcelona
Very well explained both I words and visual. THANKS
Seus vídeos são fantásticos. Muito bem editados e esclarecedores. Sou usuário das enxertias. No meu caso uvas e pêssegos. Moro no Brasil, estado de Goiás. Seguirei com ansiedade seu canal para ver os próximos vídeos.
I enjoy watching your video, its more detailed. Thank You!
Thank you for all your do to educate Gardening and grafting enthusiasts. Have you made a video about which type of graft you feel creates the strongest bond? Im curious about that question and just started grafting this year. Ive done mostly bark, and cleft/modified cleft grafts. It seems to me that the standard cleft graft would create the strongest graft. I'd love to hear your thoughts on graft strength of the various grafting methods. Thank you
That's a good suggestion for a video. In most videos I tend to show the results after a few years, but I never have done a direct comparison regarding graft strength. Cleft grafts are fine if the scion and rootstock have the same diameter. When they don't, it leaves gaps (to one side or the other) that take some time to heal and may leave a weak point. Even if you place 2 scions on a wider diameter rootstock it leaves a gap in the middle. That's not so good for graph strength in the long run. In those cases I prefer to use other techniques.
@JSacadura thank you for the reply and info. That makes sense. Looking forward to all your educational videos. Cheers!!!
My only regret ... I can only give one thumbs up !
Ordered some rare stone fruit varieties from eBay,
Some of them were imported from other countries.
Order in February when the sion cuttings are dormant and keep them in a moist paper wrap with some plastic.
Either some sandwich wrap or a zip lock bag will do.
When you're ready to use them by late March/early April, they will be as good as the day they were cut as long as they have good bud's.
Do your cleft graft process or bark graft (whichever type of method you decide).
Last year I've had many successful grafts by doing this.
Anyone who wants to do this can by following these procedures mentioned!
Good luck!
I most definitely have to try this method as many of the grafts I do there is a mismatch in size. My go-to has been the cleft or V graft. I always make sure to have one side flush with the edge and cambium. But this looks great.
Thanks for sharing.
Enjoy watching you do all the grafting. Thanks so much.
Hola, buen trabajo, soy de la India, Himachal Pradesh, shimla. También cultivamos manzanas, pero es el enfoque tradicional basado en las plántulas, pero la gente también se está moviendo a los refuerzos y el gobierno también está ayudando. Tu trabajo es realmente apreciable. Música agradable. ¡Aclamaciones! utiliza el traductor de Google.
Thanks for your comment and info. No need to use the Google translator, i understand English perfectly (if you are confortable writing in that language). Besides, my native language is Portuguese, not Spanish, but that's an easy mistake to make :-)
@@JSacadura thanks for replying. Your work is very nice. I am sharing your videos.
Nice work 👍
Hi,great content my friend,.Is this method will work on figs exactly
Yes, it will work in figs, along with these 2 other methods, that I show in this video - ruclips.net/video/NBV9OIfQlaY/видео.html
I absolutely love these videos and grafting techniques you've been putting out. The tutorials are easy to follow and they're very satisfying to watch, especially when you show the union sealed over and the scion growing.
Recently, after doing some cleft grafts in branches that were much than I would have liked (they still took), I've been wondering if there is a better way to encourage the stump end of a branch to heal over. I've been playing with the idea of leaving a strip of the rootstock's bark extending far enough above the cut so you would be able to bend it over the center of the branch and allow it to fuse with the cambium opposite it. Think of it like a bridge graft using the rootstock's original bark over the stump. You would achieve this by cutting the branch twice. The first time above where you want the final height, then you would score the shape you want the bark flap to be in. Then you would peel the flap to below the final height and make the final cut with a saw going towards the flap, which has been peeled back so it doesn't cut (and maybe covered in a bag to prevent sawdust from getting in the cut). You would then fold the bark over the cut and across to the other side- maybe even tuck the end under a flap of bark on the opposite side as you would a standard bark graft. You may need to hold the top in place with a tack while it heals. Then you would be able to do bark grafts perpendicular to the strip of bark. Do you think that this might work? I'm a bit skeptical, but it might. I feel like getting the bark wouldn't want to adhere to the butt end of the branch, and it may dry out before scar tissue begins to form. I'm unsure if it would eve fuse to the cambium of the opposite side since grafting scion on backwards isn't supposed to work, but the objective is just to get a fused connection and not to grow buds. Even if it does work, the benefit probably won't justify the extra effort. I've tried a few iterations on some invasive acacia and cotoneaster to see if they do anything. If they don't work, then it's no loss.
I believe i understand what you are trying to do, but i don't think it will work (as you suspect), as i also believe the flap of bark would not fuse with the cambium and, i agree, it would be a serious extra effort. That is one of the main reasons i don't use plain cleft grafts on larger diameter rootstocks very often. I do prefer other techniques (like this modified cleft) that allow the plant to heal much better.
Thanks for your input. I ended up deciding that using bark grafts with this method would be better, since the bark needs to be slipping anyways. But really I think I'm just paranoid about letting the inner wood be exposed to the elements, and I should just trust the tree more. Regardless, it's fun to experiment and see for myself what the tree will and won't accept. If it does end up being a successful (albeit inefficient) experiment, I'll be sure to let you know.
Great technique !
Grafting.. learn from him... amazing
very nice work done so simple so perfect
Я в восторге от прививочного ножа как он стругает👍
👌
I just found your videos. U teach the technology beautifully, and any one can simply master it. Wonderful. How many millimeters of cambium contact minimum is required for a successful graft,( cleft ).
Can u put a video to find cambium layer exactly.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing. 👍🙂
Quite helpful Bhai...
Love all your grafting. Technique Best grafting among all RUclips channel. So detail. Thx for sharing. Where to order parafilm? Can you graft 3 scion onto one rootstock?
Thanks. Search Amazon for "Parafilm Grafting Tape". Yes, you can graft several different varieties to the same rootstock, producing a multivarieties tree - check this example - ruclips.net/video/ciMx5OtxcV0/видео.html
Jaime, disfruto mucho los videos, son muy educativos. Por casualidad haces injertos con plantas citricas. Limones, limones verdes, toronjas? He tenido muchos fracasos. Gracias por cualquier ayuda. Ron de Houston, TX, USA
Los cítricos son un poco más delicados y todo tiene que coincidir para el suceso del injerto. Principalmente tienen que estar en pleno flujo de sabia y protegerlos bien. El próximo ano voy a intentar hacer algunos vídeos de injertos con cítricos. Gracias por el comentario.
Gracias x mostrar sus conocimientos
Saludos desde MEXIKO
Es lo mejor que e visto
I've seen most of your videos on grafting. Really nice and clear. I mostly work with chestnut trees and some apples. I use the whip and tongue, cleft and bark grafts. I am going to try the so-called Texas inlay method on my chestnuts. Have you used that method - it seems interesting ? Also, a big problem with grafting is follow-up - many times the grafts snap off or so after a year or two. What do you do? Thanks.
I use a similar method when grafting walnuts. I might do a video on Inlay Bark grafting soon to illustrate the finer points. Its important to leave a small exposed slant cut area off the scion at the top of the rootstock. This helps in callusing that area and anchor the graft firmly in the first couple of years. Limiting the growth of the grafts and bracing them, in the first 2 or 3 years, is also important to avoid breakage.
Another excellent video. In my area, apple maidens seem to be grafted to rootstock using a whip-and-tongue graft. Personally I think a cleft graft seems neater, easier, and more stable. Is there any reason not to graft young apple trees to rootstock via a cleft graft? Thank you!
I personally rarely use the normal cleft graft. I much prefer the whip and tongue technique. There are much more union points, so no need to precisely align cambiums (higher success percentage). There are no gaps between scion wood and rootstock and they adjust perfectly, so better and quicker healing. The only problem is that it requires scion and rootstock to be almost the same diameter. That's why i use this modified cleft graft when the diameters are different - to me its much neater than normal cleft. When grafting larger rootstocks, i always go for bark grafting (its a no brainer to me). I see people using cleft graft in this situation and it always make me cringe when they leave an enormous gap between both scions (when doing a double cleft graft). That central opening tends to heal very badly and can cause all kinds of problems for the tree.
@@JSacadura Thank you for the informative answer.
Question Sir: Won't it be better to wrap the graft with parafilm first and after with rafia? This will allow you to remove the rafia when this is safe and leave the parafilm if necessary. That's a humble opinion only. Thank you very much for your super great videos. Nick from Greece.
I just love the way you work waw with such skillfully I want to be next to you, if ever this could be I'll be great full.
Blessed you and the way you work......
Love the way you do
Amazing video! Perfect!
what kind of cleft graft to do when the scion is larger than rootstock?
Bom dia Sr. Sacadura. Tenho uma macieira já muito velha e com o tronco em muito mau estado e seguramente vou ter que a por abaixo. Mas antes disso, para não perder essa variedade gostava de a enxertar. Sera que me podia informar qual seria o porta enxerto que devo utilisar? Li num comentario seu que utilisou o M26 mas nao sei onde posso encontrar. Sou do centro da zona de Coimbra. Obrigado pela sua ajuda.
Boa noite. É um prazer assistir vídeos como os seus bem explicados, mas ainda estou aguardando que publique quais outras estacas além das figueiras conseguiu enraizar no substrato de coco.
Olá, Bia. A fibra de coco permite enraizar muitas outras espécies de fruteiras, além das figueiras. Umas enraízam mais facilmente do que outras. No passado já a utilizei para enraizar alguns Cítricos, Romãzeiras e outras fruteiras que vão bem nas suas próprias raízes e das quais em enviaram estacas, como alguns Kiwis (mas, infelizmente, na altura, eu não estava ainda fazendo vídeos.). No entanto, com as fruteiras, costumo enxertar muito mais que enraizar, já que existem várias vantagens na utilização de porta-enxertos específicos, pois as árvores enxertadas crescem mais rápido, produzem mais e adaptam-se melhor a solos difíceis, como os que tenho por aqui. Quando já tenho árvores e pretendo cópias, uso as alporquias e aqui prefiro uma mistura de solo para vaso em vez da fibra de coco, pois esta envolve melhor o anel de casca e mantém a humidade durante mais tempo. Recentemente, enraizei no coco algumas estacas de Lúcia-Lima (usada aqui para chá) a pedido da minha esposa mas, acho que ainda é pouco para justificar fazer um vídeo sobre isso.
@@JSacadura, mais uma vez obrigada pela atenção. Uma curiosidade: vejo que sempre tem um saco com estacas já preparadas para enxerto. Elas são compradas, ou o senhor as prepara com antecedência e as deixa guardadas? Desde já agradeço muito pela atenção e paciência! Bom dia.
Com variedades mais recentes, de muita qualidade e das quais só tenho uma árvore (posso ter recebido apenas uma estaca para enxertar, de algum bom amigo), quando faço a poda invernal, costumo guardar algumas estacas do crescimento anual para enxertar na próxima primavera (e obter, assim, mais algumas árvores da mesma variedade). Basta envolvê-las em plástico de cozinha (do utilizado para alimentos) e guardá-las na gaveta do frigorífico. Desta maneira resistem muitos meses, em boas condições. Noutros casos, são estacas que alguns amigos me mandam por correio (e que foram obtidas e guardadas da mesma maneira) e basta escolher uma para enxertar.
@@JSacadura , muito legal saber disso, pois poderei escolher algumas no momento da poda e guardá-las dessa forma para usar num momento oportuno. Obrigada meu querido amigo pelas explicações. Boa tarde.
In my mind I thought it was a no go on mismatched size, but after seeing this it seemed so obvious. I've done a normal wedge on loquats and had about a 90% success rate. But some of my failures may have been size mismatch. Thanks.
Thank you, beautifully done. I guess best time to do it is when plant still dormant ? or just before sap flow ?
Hi, Vivienne. Just before sap flow is usually best for all types of grafts that don't require that the bark is slipping.
@@JSacadura San, thank you. I will do it next year before warm, I received some cuttings, the spare ones will leave them in the fridge and do the graft later. I want to try to do 3 or 4 variety in one tree, going to be fun. Enjoyed your videos and help. !
It is a Na ice documentary.Thanks. I need to hes . Ali hossain from bangladesh
For added support, I normally use rubber band.... Can I "overtighten" enough that it will hinder a union? Often, when I make a lousy whittled cut or can't really distinguish the cambium layer, I would angle it slightly AND tighten it with rubber band but always wondered if the tightness would hinder a union instead of help it.
Not really. I wouldn't worry to much of overtightening. I use wet raffia and you really can apply pressure with it, if needed. Never had a problem with the grafts taking. But I have to make sure I remove it after 2-3 months or some vigorous grafts can start to get strangled by it.
Will this method work for Mangoes and Avocados?
Great video !
I don't see why not. It works on a large selection of fruit types.
Thank you for another great video, I'm always waiting for the next one.
Now im confused....which graft to use thanks your video is great
bonitos sistemas, el 23 sabado intentaré injertar alguna higuera y ciruelo, haber que pasa, gracias J. y un saludo!
Este sistema funciona muy bien en higuera, Tino. Lo he utilizado cuando los diámetros son diferentes (si son idénticos, prefiro el injerto a inglés) y va muy bien. Ahora ni reconozco el punto de injerto, en muchos casos.
Sir thank you for your videos and suggestions . I did cleft grafting on orange and other citrus trees and got success . But now first time I did modified cleft grafting on guava tree . First I cut the scion and then cut the rootstock downwards to match the both side cambium. In this case I get fear to cut the rootstock first if the both side cambium is not matched . I know one side is enough for successful grafting . Sir please tell me how should I manage to match the both side cambium in modified cleft grafting. Is there any process or it is a experience of long time work and efforts ?
Thanks a lot. Good job.
Is there a reason why the second angled cut has to be so short?
I would like to know too
Thanks, Sir!😊👍🏼
Thanks a millions : )
Do we have to disinfect before grafting or after every grafting?
UN MAESTRO CON LOS INJERTOS LO FELICITO , DEJO UNA PREGUNTA ESTE TIPO DE INJERTO SIRVE PARA LOS ROSALES ? MUCHAS GRACIAS , SALUDOS DESDE ARGENTINA
Hola, Daniel. Los rosales pueden ser injertados con las técnicas básicas, por eso, no veo porque esta no va a funcionar.
Your bark graft at 6:20. This always confuses me....saying the snug backcut is where the best cambium connection is.
When the rootstock is split, the center of the flap is into the dead wood. The backcut scion section, when centered like the video, does not connect with any cambium from the flap.
If anyone can enlighten me about this, please do.
To me you still need to either align one side of the longer inner scion cut with the rootstock opposite the flap, or angle the scion to cross at some point like the earlier modified cleft graft.
Amazing teacher!
The last graft in this video is bark grafting or modified cleft grafting ? Reply please sir . It did not cut through the wood of the rootstock ,only skin is pulled off the rootstock
Hi. In a bark the scion is placed behind the bark of the rootstock. In the modified clef graft I always cut some wood (even if, sometimes, its a very thin layer of wood). So, if only the skin was pulled, you should call it a bark graft.
@@JSacadura thank u honourable sir for your reply and good response. If we would be in the same country,i wish to take practical classes and lessons from u .
Nice presentation, thanks. :-)
Is this better than using whip and tongue for differing scion-rootstock diameters?
Check my latest video - ruclips.net/video/XHvcreBnQYI/видео.html . I like this technique a lot in that situation.
@@JSacadura THank you, I saw it but I didnt see a recommendation when a plum scion is about 5-6mm diameter while the rootstock is only 2.5-3mm diameter?
That's a though one. In that situation I would probably try a Z-Graft. Its similar to the modified cleft graft but you make similar cuts in both the scion and the rootstock (the flap on the scion covers the top of the rootstock). Main contact is done on the back cuts on both the scion and the rootstock. Apart from that, and whip and tongue pushed to one side, not much will work, but you can always try to remove a few buds from the scion and use them with a bud-grafting technique, like chip-bud grafting.
this video is very informative tnx.. already subscribe to your channel
Hi, Ryan. Thanks for the support.
What plants can be grafted this way?
Which brand knife you are using sir
Good lessons for me sir .
For this method or bark graft, what is the maximum diameter of trunk stock it can work on? We have a suspected bing cherry tree that is overgrown and wanted to cut it down to 6 ft where the diameter is about 7". It's a 20+ year old tree.
I would use wedge grafting or bark grafting for that tree. Here's a bark graft situation on a 50 years+ pear tree with large diameter trunk - ruclips.net/video/b-iyXqG10YU/видео.html
Can you graft a fruit branch onto a non fruit tree like a maple or alder?
What think clean the knife before grafting please sir tell me.
With modified cleft , why make outside cut on scion so short? Also why no emphasis on cambium alignment? On apples one can take liberties but difficult to graft species may need more precise alignment of cambium
That smaller angled cut is the key for this type of graft. I even tried to place a narrow scion in the middle of the cut in the rootstock (no contact with the lateral cambium) and the graft started healing from the bottom up. It seems to contact the cambium of the rootstock in that lower point. In April I grafted several kiwis with this technique. They all took.
Thank you so much!♥
What knife are you using?
Question for you...is it still important that the rootstock and scion is lined up on one edge or is it okay that the smaller width scion sits proudly in the middle?
When i started doing this graft i still skewed the scion a bit, so it crossed the layer of cambium on one side of the rootstock. But i tried a few dead center and they still worked, even when they shouldn't, as the cambium layers on the sides seemed a bit out of reach. I believe the secret is in the lower angled cut that, with its oval shape crosses the cambium layers of the rootstock, in that area. Nevertheless, if the scion width is really small, i still till it to one side, a bit, to make sure.
Nice, thank you to share you knowledge, and can I ask you how to order your apple an pig three variety online,thank you.
Sorry. I don't sell plants.
hi.
how are you?
thank you for this video
خیلی خوب است
Thanks for answer ‘ but I not trying to rescue the tree I would like to graft or do something to have the same nectarine type . .can not buy from nursery regards
Then your best bet is grafting a scion of that nectarine variety into a new rootstock. if you don't have one around, you can always try to graft a branch of another tree (it has to be another Prunus, better if its a peach or another nectarine). you can produce your own rootstock from peach seeds. beware that the resulting trees will be larger than normal (modern rootstock induce some dwarfing) and size will have to be controlled with rigourous pruning.
Sir, i want to ask about cover of grafting.
You said that grafting will be better doing in spring, and use aluminium foil/ envelope to cover it.
But in my country, only have 2 season, summer and rain. What cover I could use in grafting on those season besides alumunium foil/ envelope?
Thanks.
Ps, sorry for my english 😁
You can use a plastic bag over the graft to make a mini-grenhouse. Be sure to protect it from direct sun, though, or the heat inside the bag will 'cook' the graft.
What is the best grafting technic for cherry trees?
I want to graft some sconions Into an older cherry tree the next days...
In older cherry trees you can use the bark grafting technique to change varieties (check my video on grafting old pear trees as the technique is the same).
@@JSacadura Thx a lot.... Greetings from Germany ;)
How many times it takes to heal ? Nice informative video
The grafts usually start to heal in a couple of weeks. Until they are solid enough to remove all support, it may take many months. In pears and apples, for instance, if i tie with natural raffia, i may have to cut it after 1-2 months or there is a risk of strangling the graft. With other slow growing fruit types, i might leave the ties until next spring. It really depends on the fruit type you are grafting and the season of the year.
Hi, What grafting knife you are using?
Check my latest video on the subject, published a few hours ago.
Isn't this similar to side venner, just without the top half of the root stock?
Yes, i believe you could say its similar, but there are a few differences. In the veneer graft the top part of the branch is never removed when grafting (only after the graft takes, as it depends on it for healing). Secondly, the rootstock flap stays on and covers the graft (its removed in the veneer graft). Also, veneer grafting is done mainly with 'green' scions.
Nice
is there such a thing as “too many grafts” on a tree? i have a 3 year old fig tree that’s just waking up from dormancy and i’ve already grafted to every branch (10 grafts) this season...can one kill a tree by too many grafts?
You won't kill the tree from too many grafts. The problem will be that some grafts will take over and will develop quicker and stronger than others. The weaker ones might even dry out in some fruit types as the flow of sap is diverted from them. Nevertheless, with adequate planning and carefull pruning you can have several grafts in each branch. It has been done before.
another question sir: on modified cleft, why do you do beveled cut to one side instead if cutting both sides of scion evenly like you would in a normal cleft? wouldn’t it heal better if you didn’t have that flap hanging on the root stock?
Which plastic tape you are using for wrapping ?
I'm using a wax based grafting tape called Parafilm.
Please show us what kind and name of the grafting knife you use each time. Thanks.
You can use almost any model from Felco/Vitorinox line of grafting knives. I use these a lot for most grafts. They will work just fine and are easy to find. The larger blade knife is similar to an Opinel (these will also work) but its a local brand, probably not easy to obtain from abroad (navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011)
this is quite similar to chip graft, ain't it? The main difference is in chip graft you don't cut the rootstock off and in this modified cleft graft, you got to keep a couple of extra nodes, which shall not make too much of a difference, do they?
Dude! The parafilm is way too expensive in my country. It's like 55$+ and the tape roll is only 38m. What are the alternative solutions?
Parafilm is a recent material that has several advantages but its not essential for grafting. You can use almost any kind of plastic tape (like electrical tape) to secure the graft and after its secure you can isolate it from air and rain water with a tree sealant (like a pruning mastic). Before I used Parafilm I would secure the grafts with natural raffia and cover it with the sealant. Be sure to cover any point of entrance to the graft with the tape. If the sealant gets between the tissues, it will prevent the graft from healing.
Where do you buy that tape from what sort of tape is it when is the best time to Stud graphing
"Parafilm Nursery Grafting tape" - I buy it at Amazon.
Hey bro for grafting how old should be rootstock ??
You can graft rootstocks that are one year old or older. If the are very vigorous, you can, sometimes, graft even earlier, but i prefer rootstocks that are more established, so I usually only graft one year old or older.
@@JSacadura ok friend thnku very much