Don't Kill Yourself Climbing: The Bowline With Yosemite Finish (Yosemite Bowline)

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  • Опубликовано: 10 дек 2024

Комментарии • 105

  • @peteonthestreet1st
    @peteonthestreet1st 2 года назад +18

    You’re by far the best knot teacher I’ve ever seen and that’s saying a lot. THANK YOU!

  • @sylviakang4053
    @sylviakang4053 5 лет назад +8

    This is the best instruction i have ever seen. Spent two hours looking at RUclipss trying to tie this knot and you showed me in 3 minutes. THANK YOU!

  • @deeperf5832
    @deeperf5832 9 лет назад +46

    such clean teaching! awesome explanations and detail.

    • @WhyKnot
      @WhyKnot  9 лет назад +4

      Dee Perf I try. Thanks for the encouragement.

  • @lstollin
    @lstollin 4 года назад +17

    As someone who has taught a lot of climbers to tie in, I feel that any "re-thread" method (whether for the bowline, double bowline, or figure 8) adds significant visual complexity and makes the "true knot" harder to visually inspect. In the case of the bowline (or I prefer the double bowline), why not leave the tail of the rope where it naturally lands, and tie the fisherman's there on the inside (preferably on the opposite strand from its "natural lay")? This requires less rope, allows easy visual inspection of your clean, unadulterated original bowline, and also has the added advantage of being extremely compact, so that when you reach down to scoop up the rope to make a clip, you never risk snagging your fingers against the fisherman's finish knot or the tail -- it's not there!

    • @BRENDANTHERED
      @BRENDANTHERED 3 года назад +3

      Great comment! I'm hoping the creator see's it and gives his response... I'm reading the tree climbers companion right now and this issue is not addressed in it, so it has me curious.

    • @nunyabizness6734
      @nunyabizness6734 3 года назад +8

      So, couple issues with having the backup knot on the loop vs the standing end. First, it interferes with your tie in point (harness or carabiner) and limits the movement of the rope around that tie in point. Second, the short tail can interfere with equipment like carabiners. If your locking carabiner has a screw gate, repeated motions can cause that short tail to hit and unscrew the lock. Some of the screw gates on newer locking carabiners are so smooth, it doesn't take much force to back them off completely, leaving you with an unlocked gate. Also, larger carabiners can work themselves over the backup knot and end up resting between the backup knot and the bowline knot. This can result in the carabiner being side loaded against the knots in a hard fall.
      Keep the back knot seperate on the standing end and then you have two simple knots to check (bowline with a Yosemite finish is a simple knot, if you disagree, then you haven't spent enough time studying your knots). Also, with the backup knot on the standing end of the rope, it only takes a quick glance to see if the backup knot is still holding. If the backup is still holding, then even an improperly tied bowline isn't going to come undone. With the backup on the loop, it's too convoluted (especially with a biner or other equipment attached) to see what's going on with the backup knot at a glance.
      But, at the end of the day, you are ultimately responsible for your own safety. Use the appropriate knot you are the most comfortable with.

    • @toomuch9762
      @toomuch9762 2 года назад

      He said this is “ONE potential way to make it more secure”. He’s not telling people what to do ffs

  • @johnnordq
    @johnnordq 5 лет назад +7

    I've been using this for 20 years. Learned it from Jim Bridwell, who learned if from Leighton Kor. Jim called it a Kor-bowline. Many times I've met climbers at a crag and notice the knot; turned out they'd climbed with Jim.

  • @JonSteitzer
    @JonSteitzer 7 лет назад +9

    Excellent thorough video. I love how you honestly go over the strengths and weaknesses of the knot. Well filmed, great sound. Fantastic video.

  • @StephenCooteNZ
    @StephenCooteNZ 6 лет назад +3

    Extremely clear and concise explanation. Thank you. I like this tidy bowline variant. I've also come to appreciate the 'Dutch' or 'cowboy' bowline where the tail stays well outside the loop. Best wishes from New Zealand.

  • @RC-Heli835
    @RC-Heli835 23 дня назад

    Love it! Been practicing it for 2 hrs now to get it drilled in from both sides left and right as in rigging down tree spars.

  • @chrissansum8677
    @chrissansum8677 7 лет назад +2

    Great video. I am doing falling practice at the moment and decided it was time to finally learn the bowline, and this was perfect for learning it. Definitely worth watching with the sound on as if you don't you won't hear what he says about dressing the knot correctly!

    • @G009131337
      @G009131337 6 лет назад +1

      Chris Sansum just go with a double bowline with a bit of tail, even if the second half would come undone, its still save

  • @jagerman06
    @jagerman06 2 года назад +1

    Thanks for the clean, detailed views for this lesson

  • @Chitario
    @Chitario 4 года назад +6

    There have also been incidents where this knot opened itself. Even if done correctly like in the video.
    Example: my (rather new) rope, tends to open up a bit after tightening down at the end. The end of the rope can slip back though and you are left with a regular unsafe bowline.
    Better would be the bowline where you first make the basic one, then go thorugh your harness a second time (2 loops into your harness) and then following back the knot just like with figure of 8.
    In german, this knot would be called "double bowline" which is misleading because in the US, the double bowline does not get threaded through the harness a second time, it is a different knot. I think the german "double bowline" would be called bowline on a bight in the english language. I am sure this is way safer than the single bowline with yosemite finish (bowline 1.5).

  • @totaratree99
    @totaratree99 3 года назад +7

    Good video thanks. Prefer the Double Bowline myself, find the double is safer and less prone to failure. Cheers

    • @HondoTrailside
      @HondoTrailside Год назад +1

      I always use the double, but it needs to be tied off also. I normally used a grapevine, but the Yosemite finish works great with the double also. As far as I know. Like I haven't hear god say it is foolproof, but it looks and acts well.

    • @threedog27
      @threedog27 11 месяцев назад +1

      Here in germany you learn in lead courses the double bowline but you also go double through the rope loops. Also if you have enough slack you can tie a knot above the bowline. So it cant open itself that easy.

    • @heckafresh
      @heckafresh Месяц назад

      @@HondoTrailsidelook c as

  • @davidsmith9
    @davidsmith9 7 лет назад +1

    Best knot videos I've seen. Thanks a million.

  • @tz444
    @tz444 2 года назад +1

    Clear and precise instruction. Thanks

  • @stullhead3531
    @stullhead3531 5 месяцев назад

    Hadn't seen the tightening detail before. Thank you

  • @josephfaraci
    @josephfaraci 7 лет назад +5

    very good video ; very well explained. Can and will save someone's life and make better climbers of many :)

  • @utar88utar
    @utar88utar 2 года назад

    i didnt know about that finish. thank you, dear sir!

  • @CK-rd3di
    @CK-rd3di Год назад

    Great video very informative and helpful

  • @WhyKnot
    @WhyKnot  9 лет назад +1

    Learn other climbing tools and tips:
    ruclips.net/p/PLc7bqVSkVAp7w9qtX1q2mtDU3As7l6yuh

  • @Martin1962
    @Martin1962 2 года назад

    According to a book I have, On Rope, it says put the finish on the left-side, not right-side. Someone posted a vid 3yrs ago saying should be on left-side also. The last step according to the book, is to finish with an overhand knot.

  • @Arrowed_Sparrow
    @Arrowed_Sparrow 3 месяца назад

    Thank you! I wasn't getting the tightening order right and I kept getting some weird slip knot.

  • @lbg2160
    @lbg2160 6 лет назад +1

    Great video, very easy to understand!

  • @climberdad
    @climberdad 7 лет назад +5

    Even with this not dressed perfectly it can still walk out on you. It did that to me one day while climbing, if it wasn’t for my back up not I would’ve been back down to the ground way faster than anyone would want me to be. I would like to recommend always putting a back up not on this, it’s saved my life!

    • @troyisakson1060
      @troyisakson1060 6 лет назад +1

      You MUST tighten the heck out of it. Even the guy in the video didn't tighten it up correctly at the end. Make the loop around the "tree" smaller and tighter with a quick pull up of both bottom loops and it snugs it up to where it will never loosen.

  • @WhyKnot
    @WhyKnot  9 лет назад +1

    Lots of loop knots to choose from here: ruclips.net/p/PLc7bqVSkVAp5I06yqemSNMdFu5Q70X5R6

    • @WhyKnot
      @WhyKnot  8 лет назад +1

      1. The water bowline with Yosemite finish should be secure. At a guess it might get hard to untie if heavily loaded.
      If you are interested. On the professional association of climbing instructors website you can find an analysis of bowlines document:
      www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/Bowlines_Analysis.pdf Page 27 shows what you are probably after (end bound single bowline variant) although it does not give tying instructions. If you want a video on how to tie it I can get one up in the next couple of weeks.
      2. I have seen the knot tied both ways. I find that the final dressing is cleaner if the bitter end comes out to the right of the standing part.

  • @daveoseas
    @daveoseas 2 года назад

    Great lesson. Thankyou.

  • @Rudecheers
    @Rudecheers 3 года назад

    Good clear instructions, thank you

  • @rmcdaniel423
    @rmcdaniel423 2 года назад

    0:05 to 0:10
    WHAT?!?! That seriously looked like a magic trick.

  • @kirillb1685
    @kirillb1685 4 года назад

    Excellent, helped me tremendously

  • @katabatica
    @katabatica 3 года назад

    Good demo, like the "how to screw it up" bit

  • @br-dj2ti
    @br-dj2ti 9 месяцев назад

    I see some people put the finish on the other side. Would be the left side, is that okay too or no? Should it always be finished on the right side, thank you.

  • @simonparker4992
    @simonparker4992 3 года назад

    Ok. Interesting knot. Comparison with round turn bowline ?

  • @G009131337
    @G009131337 6 лет назад +3

    any advantages over the double bowline, besides that it uses less rope? im pretty confident with the double and cant really see why i should switch

    • @lstollin
      @lstollin 4 года назад

      I'm with you, though this one is faster to tie.

    • @joestevenson5568
      @joestevenson5568 4 года назад +2

      @@lstollin Double is faster to tie if you know the trick. Slipped double overhand knot, pass a few inches of the live end through the slipped loop. Pull the standing end and a bowline will appear. Its way faster than tying and dressing a yosemite.

    • @jackberdine
      @jackberdine 4 года назад

      thats not a knot meant for life support. neither is a bowline. he's simply saying by using this finish you can be somewhat safer. knots for life support include figure 8, alpine butterfly, barrel knot (scaffold knot) and many others.

    • @bman6065
      @bman6065 3 года назад +2

      @@jackberdine I tie in every time with a bowline and Yosemite finish. Lead on it every time whip on it every time

  • @richardbennett5115
    @richardbennett5115 2 года назад +1

    I feel that the bowline is not worth the risk. It doesn't take much more time to tie than a fig-8 and it is easy to recognise a fault in the knot. Thank you for informing us and saving lives

  • @gyrojomo
    @gyrojomo 5 лет назад

    Whats your opinion on super secure knots that fail through being improperly tied? How do you feel about tying a regular bowline an then putting a half hitch or two around the working end?

  • @9102010
    @9102010 7 месяцев назад

    Thank you, excellent.

  • @magicrobharv
    @magicrobharv 6 лет назад +1

    Great video!

  • @jenseng7353
    @jenseng7353 4 года назад

    2:35 all good , but why would you take it out in the first place ? those knots withheld 1000 lb of force (thats somewhere where rope breaks)

    • @j.richard2059
      @j.richard2059 4 года назад +1

      I believe he is just showing you that by drawing it tight incorrectly you are in fact losing the basic structure and integrity of the original knot. If it is not drawn right, then it slips and becomes something else and likely inferior in design and strength.

  • @nokieng6502
    @nokieng6502 3 года назад +4

    The Yosemite part is tied incorrectly I think. The working end should have come up on the LEFT side of the hole. You have it coming out the right side. The entire bowline might collapse in your case.

    • @bigoldgrizzly
      @bigoldgrizzly 2 года назад +2

      I agree. If the final tuck brings the working end up to the left side of the standing end, it is much less likely that you will upset the knot when tightening or dressing.
      I would urge folks to take a couple of minutes and a length of rope and see for yourselves.

    • @TJB270
      @TJB270 2 года назад

      Nope it doesn’t matter honestly. How you dress it is the vital part

    • @queasybeetle
      @queasybeetle Месяц назад

      If you are having a debate you should rather tie a figure of 8 😂😂😂

  • @matthewforestieri6895
    @matthewforestieri6895 3 года назад

    Thanks!

  • @rafael55
    @rafael55 7 лет назад

    Is this better than the water bowline??? for general use.

  • @arboristupatree7390
    @arboristupatree7390 4 месяца назад

    When dressed well this know is OK, however the double bowline is even better.

  • @Puddles91843
    @Puddles91843 7 лет назад

    Thanks for such a clear explanation. I have heard that a double bowline is best for climbing but I personally don't have a clue what the reality is. Is it possible to do a double bowline with a Yosemite finish? And for it to be safe?

    • @WhyKnot
      @WhyKnot  7 лет назад +4

      A lot of people also use the figure 8 follow through, which is secure but can become difficult to untie. If you want to tie a bowline, the professional association of climbing instructors has a document on bowlines. The four variations recommended for life support are given at the end. www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/Bowlines_Analysis.pdf

    • @Puddles91843
      @Puddles91843 7 лет назад

      WhyKnot thank you.

    • @LostinYTblackhole
      @LostinYTblackhole 6 лет назад +1

      Yes it is possible to tie a double bowline with Yosemite finish. It is also the correct bowline know to use for climbing. Never tie only a bowline and expect to be safe

    • @maximiliantagher8290
      @maximiliantagher8290 5 лет назад +2

      WhyKnot that PDF is password protected

    • @mrthirty1139
      @mrthirty1139 3 года назад +3

      @@maximiliantagher8290 2 years late but for anyone else the password is: copyright

  • @blade420playElite
    @blade420playElite Год назад

    I tie them using a bight, then clip a carabineer to the loop of the bight back to the working end

  • @icesices9053
    @icesices9053 2 года назад

    Allright everyone, working end through left or right?

    • @murdock2769
      @murdock2769 2 года назад +1

      I trust the educated climber and his knowledge of detail

  • @stuby2014
    @stuby2014 2 года назад

    Your working end goes to the left of your standing on the last move.

    • @TJB270
      @TJB270 2 года назад

      Doesn’t matter. How you dress it is what matters

    • @stuby2014
      @stuby2014 2 года назад

      @@TJB270 so if you bring a sheep to a party it doesn't matter as long as it's dressed properly?

  • @timbertuggy2398
    @timbertuggy2398 Год назад

    I'd like to see evidence the bowline comes undone under tension

  • @HondoTrailside
    @HondoTrailside Год назад

    There is a video where Honnold is tying in (he is doing his triple, and ropes up for Mount Watkins. He does a Yosemite finish on an 8. Of course I defer 100% to him... But... Really?
    I also see people using two belayers. Might be a good idea if you are climbing into you 60s. But my heart attack didn't develop for 30 years after I was mostly done with climbing. If I had kept it up, I probably would not have had one...

  • @nacholibre1962
    @nacholibre1962 6 лет назад

    But a figure of eight on a bite is just as secure, but easier to tie.

    • @SilentNoises91
      @SilentNoises91 5 лет назад +1

      Albert Head Figure 8 followthrough is much harder to untie after having load. I’ve had to cut lengths off my rope after a massive whipper.
      The Bowline comes undone without hassle.

  • @ClimberinChrist
    @ClimberinChrist 3 года назад

    If it’s not dressed properly it can come apart. Get it right.

  • @stephanddd
    @stephanddd Год назад

    Nice video. But maybe climbers shouldn't be undoing their knots until they're back on safe ground? Just sayin'

  • @ZacksMusack
    @ZacksMusack 7 лет назад

    I don't get the yosemite finish. Why not just tie the barrel/stopper knot below the bowline on the working end? It's what I've always done and it avoids the whole incorrect dressing deal.

    • @duseks
      @duseks 7 лет назад +1

      That is certainly an option = using a double fishermen's knot below the bowline as a stopper, but there are some reasons why I don't do it that way. 1) Slower and more awkward to tie 2) this puts a little bit more bulk in the "loop" near your harness and can make it "move" a bit less easily 3) I can't tie it as tight and clean to my harness, the loop is bigger and it is a bulkier knot. The yosemite bowline finish is super fast to tie, it's really efficient and easy. The bulk of the knot is away from the harness. If you are tying in for the day (multipitch) then you really should just use a figure 8 rethread - for single pitch climbs where you may take a lead fall or for quickly tying in at the gym the Yosemite bowline is an excellent choice - you just need to dress it correctly.

    • @troyisakson1060
      @troyisakson1060 6 лет назад

      The Yosemite finish also provides extra grip and friction on the entire knot so it won't loosen as easily. Just a single bowline is significantly easier to loosen and untie. Those little stopper/backup knots always come loose too. Bowlines are also easier knots for guessing how much rope to handle (compared to the figure 8) so you can get the perfect length of tail of just a few inches so it won't be in the way and no backup is needed at all to control the excess tail.

  • @jeffreywilke1858
    @jeffreywilke1858 5 лет назад

    FUCKING perfect

  • @redshift3639
    @redshift3639 3 года назад

    I honestly don't see why people would risk the bowline over the normal figure of eight. Figure of 8 is easier to tie, less tendency to come undone, and can be easily inspected. For the peace of mind I think it's worth the minor inconvenience of undoing a fig of 8 after a fall over a bowline. bowline is one of those knots that I keep forgetting how to tie because of it's complexity, and for me, fig of 8 is best because of it's simplicity.

  • @gmancolo
    @gmancolo 3 года назад +1

    Jeez that's like a magic trick how it's no longer a bowline at the end.....

  • @74kork
    @74kork 8 лет назад

    I love your videos. They are superbly filmed and very educational. But this video should think fit to change the name: "The Bowline With Yosemite Finish is not safe for climbing and can kill you." My opinion: "The very Bowline knot is secure enough and does not need to upgrade."

    • @pauldavies9360
      @pauldavies9360 7 лет назад +1

      74kork What do you mean? sorry what you wrote is not very clear.

  • @jamese9283
    @jamese9283 2 года назад

    The demonstration shaking the knot to untie it is completely unnatural motion that would never happen in the field. I have used bowlines without a yosemite finish for 30 years at work. Drug them on pavement, rocks, thru the woods, thru heavy brush. Hoisted people and loads on them. If tied correctly, they never come out.

    • @iseyopo7270
      @iseyopo7270 8 месяцев назад

      Why don‘t they use it for climbing anymore then? Isn‘t it precisely because it came loose often in that fashion?

    • @jamese9283
      @jamese9283 7 месяцев назад

      ​@@iseyopo7270The modern philosophy in climbing/working at height is over rigging and relying on equipment to keep you safe, rather than your own good sense. You can join the paranoia if you want.
      You could try using the regular bowline in the field in non-life support and see how often it comes untied.

    • @scarscar2771
      @scarscar2771 Месяц назад

      @@iseyopo7270people do.

  • @SirNC16
    @SirNC16 6 лет назад

    I have Never had a Bowline loosen, the square knot tail is just as secure as the double bowline.

  • @eyescreamcake
    @eyescreamcake 4 года назад +18

    Or just don't ever use this knot and stay alive.

    • @murdock2769
      @murdock2769 2 года назад +1

      Good point why fix it if it ain't broke

    • @Ajaxx827
      @Ajaxx827 Год назад +15

      In search and rescue this is the ONLY knot we use. The figure eight is NOT usable for the loads. We use two interlocking bowlines but only one is ever loaded. The other is backup. We use it to support a rescuer, one patient, and ALL the gear needed for the rescue. All of it lies on a single bowline. If you look at strength testing the bowline is equally as strong as a figure of eight.. Knowledge is power. Educate yourselves. At least know how to inspect one so when you come across an intelligent rescue climber who uses it correctly you wont look like an idiot telling them how unsafe it is. God Bless and climb safe gentleman.

    • @eyescreamcake
      @eyescreamcake Год назад +3

      @@Ajaxx827 It _would_ be unsafe if everyone used this knot for tying into a harness. There's a reason the figure 8 is ubiquitous.

    • @UltimateToronto
      @UltimateToronto Год назад +4

      @@Ajaxx827 so you’re saying that the figure eight is not usable for loads, but the bowline is just as strong as the figure eight.. please explain

    • @Ajaxx827
      @Ajaxx827 Год назад +17

      @@UltimateToronto the figure of eight knot is just fine for loads. We never use it because it is impossible to untie after they are loaded with the rescue loads we use. The bowline has been strength tested and properly loaded is equally as strong as a figure of eight. We use only bowlines in rescue because they are very easy to untie and sustain the loads just fine. I only use bowlines for my personal climbing knot.

  • @beingaware8542
    @beingaware8542 4 года назад +2

    Only an old fart ties these to feel like they are knowledgeable. Tie a figure 8. Period. This knot should not even exist in the climbing world in my opinion.

    • @SleepyBoBos
      @SleepyBoBos 4 года назад

      You seem to know a lot so I will ask you this question. I'm new to tree climbing and was looking at a running bowline with a yosemite finish to tie off on the base of the tree. Can you point me at a video that uses a figure 8 instead?

    • @beingaware8542
      @beingaware8542 3 года назад +1

      @@SleepyBoBos This video is not about treework. It is about how rock climbers tie the rope to the harness. When tying to your harness tie the strongest knot with the least chance of untying. That would be the figure 8. As far as tying a rope off to the base of a tree there are many options, a running bowline, a figure 8, a munter mule, etc. But i am not an arborist, so better off asking those in the trade.

    • @mikemccord8399
      @mikemccord8399 2 года назад +1

      Good thing your opinion doesn’t mean anything.